The Paraná; with incidents of the Paraguayan War, and South American Recollections, from 1861 to 1868

Front matter

THE PARANA; WITH INCIDENTS OF THE PARAGUAYAN WAR, AND SOUTH AMERICAN RECOLLECTIONS, From 1861 to 1868. THE PARANA; WITH INCIDENTS OF THE PARAGUAYAN WAR, AND SOUTH AMERICAN RECOLLECTIONS, From 1861 to 1868. BY THOMAS J. HUTCHINSON, F.R.G.S., F.R.S.L., F.E.S., F.A.S.L., H.B.M. CONSUL FOB BOSAEIO J Vice-President d'Honneur de l'Institut d'Afrique, Paris ; Honorary and Corresponding Member of the Liverpool Literary and Philosophical Society : socio extranjero de la sociedad paleontologica de buenos alees, &c, &c. ; Author of " Niger-Tsiiadda-Binue Exploration"; "Impressions of Western- Africa "; '-Ten Years' Wanderings amongst the Ethiopians"; "Buenos Ayres and Argentine Gleanings," &c. &c. Utaps, Illustrations, attb portrait of Ibt Sntjwr. LONDON : EDWAED STANFORD, 6 and 7, CHAEING CEOSS, S.W. 1868.

LONDON : PRINTED BY EDWARD STANFORD, 6 AND 7, CHARING CROSS, S.W. TO THE EIGHT HONOURABLE LOED STANLEY, I.P., D.C.L., HER MAJESTY'S TBINCirAL SECRETARY OF STATE FOR FOREIGN AFFAIRS, Œfeis Wn_ is gcbitaM, AS AN HUMBLE TRIBUTE TO HIS LORDSHIP'S ENCOURAGEMENT OF GEOGRAPHICAL AND ANTHROPOLOGICAL PROGRESS, BY HIS OBEDIENT, HUMBLE SERVANT, THE AUTHOR. b PEEFACE. Just as I had finished this work, and was meditating on the few words I have to say here, a friend of mine expressed his belief, that the time had neither arrived, nor had the man appeared, to write such a book as ought to be written about these countries. " Moreover," he added, " Sir Woodbine Parish's volume is a misnomer, — ' Buenos Ayres from the Conquest,' when there has been no Conquest, for the Indians are still as bad as ever ; and the ' establishment of political independence,' even in our days, partakes somewhat of the mythical.

I leave those of my readers, who have lived for any time in the River Plate territories, to judge of the difficulty I should have had in contradicting my friend. Our age being one, in which emigration has become an European institution, the countries that are most favourable for the Hegira seem to me pre-eminently deserving of public attention. The Argentine and Uruguayan Republics, from their geographical posi tion, mildness of climate, purity of virgin soil, and lb b2

Preface

. navigable rivers, are coming to be much inquired about now-a-days ; and I hope some useful informa tion in reference to these districts may be obtained from the jottings and observations comprised here with. The only immigrants needed out here are men of capital, and labourers, — hands that are expert with the shovel, the hoe, and the plough most of all. The chief things that lie in the way of the English immigrant, are : — First, — The fact of Spanish being the language of the country. Second, — Of the Governments not being founded on stable bases. Third, — Of the want of protection from any of these Governments, and the consequent necessity of the immigrants taking care they shall not need it. These are stubborn facts, because unfortunately true; but unless in time of civil (?) war, men with stout hearts and strong hands, keeping themselves clear of the political squabbles of the peoples, can get on in the River Plate territories to a position of independence as well as in any new state of the world.

Every day's experience shows us this. For a con vincing proof whereof, I can point to the fact, that nine-tenths of the material progress and industrial development of these fine territories are entirely owing

PREFACE.

. IX to the introduction of foreign capital, energy, industry, and intelligence, — an amalgam of items, in which I regret to say, the native element is sadly deficient. I have written nothing about the Paraguayan war, but what I know to be the truth. That some of its contingencies have been a swindle on humanity and common sense I am firmly convinced ; and I protest against being set down as a partizan of either side for this conviction, or for gathering, as I have done here, from the muddle of three years' official correspondence, as well as from my own personal observation, what I am certain are established facts, and which I hope will interest the general public. 21a, Hanover Square, London, September, 1868. CONTENTS. CHAPTEE I. The Rio de la Plata — Its Indian Name — First Reception of the Spaniards — Cannibalism in South America — Sebastian Gabot's Expedition in 1526 — Foundation of the Fortress of the Holy Ghost — Fight with the Agaces — Friendly Relations with the Guaranis — Romantic Tragedy at the Fort of the Holy Ghost — Don Pedro de Mendoza's Arrival in 1534 — Foundation of Buenos Ayres — Battle with the Querandies — Indian Weapons of War — Abandonment of the Colony — Refoundation by Don Juan de Garay in 1580 — Story of Cristoval Altimaron — Foundation of the City of Siinta F^ by Don Juan de Garay — His Death by Murder near the Fort of the Holy Ghost — Change of Site of Santa T6 City in 1651 Pagel CHAPTEE II.

Indian Ravages near the Vermejo — Captured Indians adjoining Lake Ybera — Six Heroines — The Guaranis, Calchaquis, and Abipones — Another Tragedy in Paraguay — Treacherous Conspiracy of the Indians — Counter-treachery of the Spaniards, manifested in a pretended Marriage — Dreadful Slaughter, the result of this latter — Devastation caused in Santa Fe' by the Mocovi and Aquilotes Tribes — Terror of the Inhabitants — - Send to Buenos Ayres for Fire-arms to defend the Convents — Attack on Corrientes — Expedition of Marquez Montiel — Opening Preliminaries of Peace with the Cacique Larigua — Repeated Failures in this regard — Treachery of the Spaniards, again — Murder of two Caciques, and several of their Companions — Signal Failure of the Montiel Expedition — The Pampas Indians — Their Superstitions 13 CHAPTEE III.

Chaco Indians — Peculiarity of Skulls — Colonel Nelson's Experience of them — The Moscovis and Espineros — Religious Faith — Causes of Decrease in Indian Populations — Their Cowardice — Indians of the Northern Chaco — Weapons of Warfare — The Tobas, and their Law CONTENTS. XII of Succession — Republican Government amongst these Indians — Simplicity of Marriage Ceremony — Facility of Divorce — Ladies' Full dress on Horseback — Horsemanship of the Indian Tribes — What Mr. Coghlan saw of it — Dialogue between a Missionary Padre and a Tobas Cacique — The Patagonian Indians — Mode of erecting Toldas — Pecu liarities of Smoking — Trade and Barter with Bahia Blanca Page 24

CHAPTER IV.

The Bolivian Indians — The Toronomos Tribe — Their Ideas of the " Title " of Man — Polygamy amongst the Moxos — Their Sacrifice of Twin Children — Immorality of the Itonomos — Demonstrative Worship — Absence of Written Literature — The Priest, or "Comocois" — The Canichanas — " Good Walkers" amongst the Bolivian Indians — Their Travelling Apothecaries — The Mataguaya and Cambas Tribes — Industry of the Latter — Extreme Simplicity of Marriage Ceremony — Jesuit Missions up the Parana — Variety of Effects in their Teaching of Indian Tribes — Mr. Crawfurd's Ideas of Crossed Paces — Indian Civilization considered by Mr. W. Bollaert — Hippophagy in the Gran Chaco 33 CHAPTEE V. Works of Referenoe on South America — De Azara on the Indians — Derivation of Names of Paraguay and Uruguay — The River of Canoes — Products of Paraguay — Of Cannibalism amongst the Charruas — Warfare against the Spaniards — Manners and Customs of the Charruas — Their Arras of Warfare — Custom with Girls arriving at Puberty — Manly Badge given to Boys at their Birth — Barhote — Licentiousness of Life — Barbarous Style of Mourning — The Yaros and their First Exploits — Their Extermination — The Bohans and Chanas — The Minuanes — Their Difference from and Similarity to the Charruas — Peculiarities of their Mourning Ceremonies — Failure of Jesuit Missionaries amongst them 43 CHAPTEE VI.

Pampas Indians — Spanish and Native Nomenclature — Their Opposition to the Spaniards — Census of their Number according to Azara Spanish Presents to the Indians — Neatness of Dress with the Pampas Ladies — Hereditary Title of Cacique — Arms of Warfare — Destructive Use of Bolas at Buenos Ayres — The Aracaunos Tribe — The Guaranis — Extent of their Occupation — Catechism and Grammar of the Guarani Language — This Idiom now generally spoken in Paraguay — CONTENTS. XIII Similarity to other Tribes — Their Pusillanimity as described by De Azara — The Tupis — Their reputed Savagery — The Guyanas — Nalicurgas — Guasarapos — Ninaquiquilas — Guatos — Orejones — Albfiyas and other Tribes Page 52 CHAPTEE VII. The Guanas Tribe, and their Location — Authority of Caciques — Curious Mode of building Houses — Superiority of Furniture — Neat Beds — General Cleanliness — Hospitality to Travellers — Simplicity of Marriage Ceremony — Commercial Covenants therewith — No Punishment for Divorce— Faults of the Ladies — Excess of Male over Female Population — Its Causes — Licentiousness of Boys — Doctors of the Guanas — Extent of their Therapeutics — Funeral Ceremonies, and Treatment of Prisoners taken in War — Curious Ceremony at Eight Years of Age — The Albayas and Paj'aguas Tribes — Their Barbarities — Treaty between them — Stoppage of their Invasion — Forays — Cacique — Egotism of the Albaias — Payaguas and their general Customs — Amphibiousness — Payaguas Dandies — Guaicaras, Tobas, and Mocovis — Hard Names — Other Tribes 61 CHAPTEE VIII.

Patagonians — Account of them by Alcide D'Orbigny — Tehuelches at Chupat, the real Patagonians — The Giant Men of Old — Group of them at Buenos Ayres — Their Physical Appearance — Passive Contentment — Small Feet — Dulcet Language — Free and Easy Garments — Mistaken Ideas of Gigantic Stature by ancient Writers — Locale of Tehuelches — Welsh Colony of Chupat — What Sir Woodbine Parish says of the Position — Surveying Officer's Account — Captain Watson's Reports — Want of serviceable Wood — Criminal Misrepresentations — Martin Dobrizhoffer and his well-wooded Plains of Buenos Ayres — Strawberry-beds on the Goodwin Sands — Fallacies about Wild Cattle 72 CHAPTEE IX.

Quichua in Santiago del Estero — Memoir by Dr. Gutierrez — Non-universality of Quichua — Partial Existence, according to Mr. Cock — Geographical Position of Santiago — The Incas Invaders — Adaptation to Manners as they found them — Tlie suaviter in modo — Invaaion of Almagro in 1535 — Taking of Nicaragua — Words from Quichua CONTENTS. engrafted on the Spanish — Analogy of Quichua and Greek sustained by Dr. Lopez — On the Guarani, by Dr. Gutierrez — Guarani spoken in Paraguay and Corrientes — The Cahichui — Extent of Guarani Population at Discovery of America — The Chiriguanas of Peru — Guarani Grammar of the Jesuits Page 78 CHAPTEE X. Original Argentine Population — Its Divisions — The Gaucho and his Characteristics —The "Lasso" and "Bolas" — Their Uses — "Bedouins of the Argentine Republic" — Chevalier de St. Robert and Mr. M'Coll on the Gaucho — Differences of Descriptions — Readiness to shed Blood — Wild and impulsive Nature of Gaucho — The Incarnation of Fidelity — Wild Life in the Camp — The true Early Life of the Gauchos — Their Impatience of Reproof — No Fat Gauchos (illustrating the Banting Theory) — Yerba — Matd — Gambling Gauchos — "Suerte y Kulo" — Horse-racing — Juego a la Cincha — Various Classes of Gauchos — The Gaucho Dress 86 CHAPTEE XI.

The Recado, or Native Saddle — Its component Parts — Ornaments of the Gaucho's Horse — Review of Gaucho Soldiers — Splendour of a Gaucho Chief from Cordoba — Gaucho plays in Skill and Activity — Popularity of the Dictator Rosas — His Expertness as a Gaucho Rider — Feats performed by him — "El Pialar" — How it is played — "El Pato," and the Mode of doing it — The Game of "La Sortija " — Peculiarities of the South American Viva — Our Gauchos of the Salado Valley Exploration — Gaucho Attributes by Mr. M'Coll — Extraordinary Ride of a Gaucho into and out of Buenos Ayres — Clannishness of the Military Gaucho — Social Life of the Gauchos 94 CHAPTEE XII. Argentine to-morrow — Hereditary Manaiia — National Statistics — Of Education — Primary Schools in Buenos Ayres — Schools in the Camp Districts — Sociedad de Beneficencia— Private Schools — School of Arts — National College — First Printing Office in Buenos Ayres — The Foundling Hospital — Rare Archæological Study —Government Subsidy for National Education — Public Library and Museum — Sociedad Rural Argentina — Orono's Agricultural College — Poll-tax in Santa Fe -Obligatory School Law in 1866 — Other Educational Laws in Santa Fe — No Justice marching with these Laws ....

CONTENTS. XV CHAPTEE XIII. To Lujan — Santa Rosa — Voi a Chili — Railway from Buenos Ayres to Valparaiso — Rivers in the Lujan District — Origin of Title of Lujan — Pretty Town — Story of the Miraculous Image of the Virgin — Statues — Coming from Rio — Refusal to go farther than Lujan — How the Angolese Youth, Manuel, watched over it — Of its changing Locale, and disappearing in the Night — The Cure' goes to search for it — New Site, patronized by Bishop of Diocese — Don Cristobal de la Mancha Velasco — Advantages and Conveniences of the New Site — How the Statue was guarded by a Widow, and tended by the faithful Manuel Page 111 CHAPTEE XIV. Solemn Procession at Re-installation of Statue — Erection of improvised Altar — First Chapel here in a.d. 1677 — Wonderful Cures of Persons who made Pilgrimages hither — The Chapel built by Don Juan Lesica in 1754 — Miraculous Discovery of Sand — Quantity of votive Offerings in Church at present Day — Strange Stoiy about Benites — Treachery of the Authorities to him — French Sisters of Charity to be in Lujan — New Ireland hereabouts — Railway proposed by Julius Lacroze, C.E. — From Lujan to Salto — Its Advantages — Firewood in Lujan — Navarro and Mercedes — To Chivilcoy — Out by Southern Railway — Sheep-breeding Establishments — From Altimaron to Ranchos — Under the hospitable Roof of Dr. Gibbings — Across Camp to Jeppener Station — Estancias of Mr. Fair and Mr. Welchman — Latham's and Plowes's — Boca Railway and its Destination to Ensenada . . .. 117 CHAPTEE XV.

Swiss Colony at the Baradero — Report of Don Luis Pineiro — Low State of Agriculture in 1855 — The Municipality aroused — Sending to Switzerland for Agriculturists — First Instalment of ten Families — Extent of Land granted to each Family — Conditions of Cession — Importance of Products — Export of Potatoes — Second Coming of Immigrants — Principle of Enfiteusis — Kindness of Municipality to new Comers — Slowness of Provincial Government in giving legal Titles — Inducements for more Immigrants — Topographical Area of the Colony — Individual Proofs of Success — Present Population — Class of Crops produced 126 CHAPTEE XVI. Orthodox Name of San Nicholas — Derivation of Title — Historical Associations — Its Plaza and Market-place — College and Steam Flower-mill CONTENTS. XVI _ Its Officials — High Price of Land — Smallness of Port Accommo dations-Wages for Reapers — Produce of Corn Crops — Villa de Constitucion — Battle-field of Pavon — Reflections thereon — Phospho rescent Li-ht, Cannon-balls, and Lance-heads— Sheep in Pavon — Enormous Increase in Five Years -Topographical Data about Pavon — Sheep-shearing here — Wages paid — Product and Price of Wool — From Pavon to Rosario — Through Wheat and Maize Plantations — Tortuosity of Roads — Biscacha Holes and Owl Sentinels — The Saladillo Bridge — The Mirage Page 133 CHAPTEE XVII.

Importance of General Mitre's Presidency — His Birth, Parentage, and Early Education — Forced Labour in Patagonia — Marriage in Monte Video — The Reign of Terror — Alliance between Rosas and Oribe — Immigration to Bolivia — Great Feat at Battle of Vitichy — Mitre's first Literary Attempts — From Bolivia to Peru and Chile — Return to Buenos Ayres — History of Belgrano — Mitre's Official Position after Return from Chile — Battle of Cepada — Convention at San Jos6 de Flores — Profound Fraternities — Revival of Differences — Battle of Pavon — Mitre's subsequent Career — The War with Paraguay — Personal Sketch of Mitre — Cause of Unpopularity and Indictment 142 CHAPTEE XVIII. Argentine Custom-house Law — Average of its Duties — Cause of their Increase — Articles free from Duty — Its Liberality to Immigrants — Taxes, Provincial and Municipal — Direct, Indirect, and Miscellaneous — Various Classes of "Patentes" — Licences for Trades and Professions — Exemption of Doctors and Lawyers — Irrevocability of Payment — Varieties of Miscellaneous Taxes — Alcabala — Derecho de Piso — Bullock-cart Taxes in Export — Tax for Masked Balls and for Shooting - licences — Marks for Horses and Sheep — Passports — Port Charges at Rosario — Duty on Register for Loading — Quarantine Regulations — Light Dues — Pilotage Expenses 149 CHAPTEE XIX.

Goods Traffic to Interior Provinces in 1862 and 1863 — Passenger Traffic by Diligencias — Statistics of Board of Trade — Table of Commerce of Rosario of 1863 — Falling off in Exports — Increase of Copper and Wool — Flour Trade — Increase of Wheat Export for 1864 — Large Trade between Rosario and the Provinces — Nucleus for Centro-Argentine Railway Profits — Speculation in Bullock Carts — Deficiency in CONTENTS. XVII Statistical Returns — Industry in the Provinces — Indigo in Tucuman — Petroleum in Jujuy — Silver and Gold Mines — Paralysis of these on account of the War — Facility and Cheapness of discharging Cargo at Eosario — Goods Traffic in 1866 and 18G7 Page 157 CHAPTEE XX. Land Laws of Santa F6 — Governor Orono's first Proposal — Minimum Price of Land — Calculation per Acre — Prices subsequently suggested — Mode of Payment — Temporary Occupation of Land for Nothing — Orono's liberal and intelligent Views — Law of 14th of September, 1864 — Difference from Orono's Suggestions — Law of 27th of September, 1865 ; and 2nd of October, 1865 — Improvement in the Latter — Mode of obtaining Land by Denuncia — Peculiarities of Auction — Law of 27th of August, 1866 — Its Simplicity — Objects for Sale of Land by this Law — Concession for Centro- Argentine Railway — Provincial Sanction for Expropriation on the 6th of March, 1866 — National Decree for same, 3rd of August, 1866 — Sale of Land for this Intention — Average of Prices realized 166 CHAPTEE XXI.

Colonization and Immigration — Immense Territory of Argentine Republic — System of Colonization hitherto carried out — Colonies already formed — Projects in nubibus — The Etchegaray Concession — Its Extent and Position — Capital of Company — Programme of Operations — Liberty of Religious Worship — Liquidation — Common-sense Objections — "Joint Stock Argentine Credit Mobilier and Patagonia Colonization Company " — Colossal Extent of its proposed Operations — Imperium in Imperio — "General Emigration and Credit Company" — A financial non est inventus — Luis Bemberger and Co.'s Colonization — " Argentine Land and Emigration Company, Limited " — Messrs. Wilchen and Vernet's Project — Its Details 176 CHAPTEE XXII. Perkins's new Map — L.and denounced by a Company of North American Farmers — Government Township — Proposed Colony of El Rey — Its Extent and Position — Amount of Land for each Person — Style of Capital City — Limitation of Contract — Free Emigration and Gratuitous Concessions — Governor Orono's Dispatch of June 11th, 1866 — His Opinions on Emigration and Private Contractors — Gratis Land Law of 26th of October, 1864 — The same of 27th of June, CONTENTS.

XVIII — Amount of Land to be donated — Conditions of Occupation — Law of 17th of August, 1866 — Another Colony on the Salado — Peculiar Privileges to first Occupiers — No Transference of Land allowed — Law of 23rd August, 1866 — " Sunchalez " and " Cayestita " — Other Laws of 1st of September, 1866 — Facts favourable to Colonization out here — Don Muriano Cobal's " Conquest of the Gran Chaco " Page 187

CHAPTER XXIII.

Land Laws of Buenos Ayres Province — Price of Land here (according to De Azara) in 1796 and 1803 — First Land Law of Buenos Ayres, 1813 — Code of 1817 strengthened by that of 1819 — Title-deeds offered on sole Condition of Occupancy — Land Law of 1822 to raise a Loan in London — National Debt constituted in 1824 by a Guarantee on Land — Law of Enfiteusis in 1826 — This Law modified in 1828 — With Provision that Foreigners shmdd be excluded — Law of 1830, entitled Reparative — Decree of 1832, abolishing all those previously passed — Enfiteusis .System impaired by Laws of 1834 and 1835 — " Reign of Terror " from 1840 to 1852 — Last Land Law of 1866 — High Prices decreed by this — Land Laws of Entre Rios • .. .. 196 CHAPTEE XXIV. Over the Andes, and shooting a Condor — Alpine Club to be transmuted into Andine — Range of the Condor's Habitation — Extent of Wings — Mode of catching the Bird — Tenacity of Life in the Condor — Baron von Humboldt's Experiences — Ulloa's Assertion — From England to Rosario — From Bosario to Valparaiso — Diligenc ia Line across the Pampas — The Route by Cordoba — Cumbre and Uspallata Passes — The Planchon Pass — Turnpike on the Andes — Frozen-up Passes — The San Francisco Pass always open — Diligencia Itinerary — Journey on Mule-back — Bridge of the Incas — Perpetual Institution of Earthquake — Table of Chilian Currency — From Valparaiso, North or South — To Panama, or Tierra del Fuego — To England via United States — Healthy and Unhealthy Season at New Orleans — Professor Agassiz 205 CHAPTEE XXV.

Indian Invasion over the Frontiers — Pillaging Cattle to sell in Chile De Azara's and Taboada's Opinions — Gaucho Element amongst the Indians — Author's Style of Fortifications — General Paunero's Report — Suggestions for new Line of Frontier Forts — General Don Antonino Taboada's Activity — General Paunero's two Plans — Addition of CONTENTS. XIX 20,000 Square Leagues of Land — Southern Limit of Rio Colorado — Murder of Englishmen at Frayle Muerte — " Flying Forts," and Plan of paying Soldiers — What they propose to do at Frayle Muerte — Murders at Pearson's Estancia — Assassination of the Brothers Barron, Mr. Marshall, and Mr. Home Page 213

CHAPTER XXVI.

Argentine Beef Supply versus Rinderpest — Charqui, or Jerked Beef — Dr. Morgan's New Process for the Preservation of Meat for Food — Its Advantages over the Mode practised in Saladeros — Cheapness and Despatch of Morgan's Method — Modus Operandi in Preparation — Perfection of the Process — Amount of Beef supplied by each Animal — The Morgan Company — Mr. Ford's Report on Meat — His Opinion of the Morgan System — Liebig's Extractum Carnis — How this is made, and the Price it is sold for — Its Convenience from portability — Paris and Sloper's Meat Preserving — Its Advantages — Mr. E. B. Neill's Advocacy — The Olinden Method — Parkes and Anderson — George's System — Bailey's Process 222 CHAPTEE XXVII. Agriculture in the Argentine Republic — Cotton, Corn, and Wool — Decrees of Government to encourage Cultivation of the first named — Author's Efforts to have Cotton cultivated — Their Failure — Increase of Cotton in Brazil — Argentine National Proposal for Funds to advance Agriculture, contrasted with those levied for War — Sociedad Rural Argentina — The Labrador Argentino — United States Agricultural Report for 1863 — Los dies que vengan despues — Californians in the Gran Chaco — Contrast of Minesota Produce — United States Agricultural Statistics for 1867 — Captain Forrest's Experience of Cotton and Cereals in Parana — The native Plough — Season for Sowing 233 CHAPTEE XXVIII.

Sydney Smith on Tropical Insects — Our Mosquito Experiences on board the Steamer ' Whiteinch ' — The City of Parana and its Antediluvian Associations — General Aspects of this City — Santa Fe and its Dolce Far Niente — Sleepy Characteristics — From Santa Fe upwards — Difference in the Bank River Scenery — El Cerrito — Antonio Thomas — The Balsa, or Floating Timber Raft — The Mirage and its Definition — The Town of La Paz — Island marked by Crosses — The Espinilla, or Guaiquiraro — Garibaldi's Island — Esquina — The Mosquito Plague again — Sailors sleeping in the Cross-trees of Vessels — Desolation of Islands between Esquina and Goya — The Rio San Geronimo — Secrets and Mysteries of the Gran Chaco CONTENTS. XX CHAPTEE XXIX. Specimens of Palm Trees — Large Green Flies — Entrance to Goya — Rincon de los Sotos (or Fool's Corner) — Mr. Lafone's Saladero — Pious Memorial of a Brazilian Arm — The Red Man's Point — Cuevos Battery and the two Points of Babila — Bella Vista and its Orange Groves — Islands of the Gran Chaco — Cimbolar and San Antonio River — Empedrado and Mercedes — Wreck of ' Marques de Olinda ' Steamer — Great Naval Battle at Riachuelo — Corrientes Roadstead — From Corrientes upwards — Colony of Saint Anna — Aruade' Bonpland — Las Tres Bocas — Pasode la Patria, and Fort Itapiru — A Paraguayan Chata — Visit to the Brazilian and Argentine Encampments — Beauty of Park -like Grove — Narrow Escape — Dreadful Heat — Sudden Change of Temperature Page 253 CHAPTEE XXX.

First Noises of South American Cities — Ancient Spanish Treatise on the Ringing of Bells — Notions of Corrientine old Ladies in re Geography of the Sea — Appearance of the Capital from the River — The Government House — General Aspect of the City — Post Office and Theatre — Orange Orchards — The Plaza Principal — View from Tower of Cabildo — The Market-place, and Indian Confectionery — Old Houses, and motley Population — Fish in the River, and promiscuous Bathing on the Beach — Excessive Modesty of Female Bathers — Harmony of Colours in a Gaucho's Dress — Albert Smith's Story of Mr. Brown — Amad£ Bonpland at Corrientes — His Herbarium of 3000 Plants — His Letter to Governor Pujol — Fame in South America 265 CHAPTEE XXXI. Foundation of Corrientes City by Don Alonzo de Vera in 1588 — Attack of the Guarani Indians — Miracles of the Cross — The Chapel of the Cross — Commemorative Pillar, and Inscription on it — Festivities on the Anniversary of the Miracle — Wounded Paraguayans and Brazilians Argentine Hospitals — Sisters of Charity — Brazilian Marine Hospital — Brazilian Military Hospital — Superior Accommodation for Sick and Wounded — Brazilian Custom in naming Men-of- War Ships — Indian Name of Corrientes City — Derivation of the Title Corrientes — Departments of the Province — The Lake of Ibera — Its Peculiarites, as described by Dr. De Moussy — The Victoria Regia Water-lily — Guarani Name for its Flower CONTENTS.

XXI CHAPTEE XXXII. Continual Outbreaks in South American Republics — Their Effects in keeping Capital and Immigration away from these Shores — Ideas of the Origin of these Causes — Intentions of the early Spanish Invaders — Want of Unanimity at Time of Independence of 1810 — Difference of Morale in the Pilgrim Invaders of Plymouth Rock — Contrasts by Doctor Beecher — From Civil Wars to the existing War with Paraguay — Extraordinary Session of Congress called by Lopez on 5th March, 1865 — Charges against Brazil and the Argentine Government in President's Address — Field-Marshal Lopez refuses to accept Pension — Rumours and Conjectures up and down this River — Attack of Paraguayan War-ships upon Corrientes — Bad faith on the part of the Paraguayans — Proclamation of Lopez Page 286 CHAPTEE XXXIII.

Arrival of War News in Buenos Ayres, and its Symptoms — President Mitre's impromptu Address and Prophecy — Injustice of disparaging Mitre for these Utterances — The Paseo Militar (or Military Spree) — General Mitre's Proclamation — Calling out the National Guards — Enrolment of Infantry — The Treasury Minister coming in with Funds — Donations by the Foreign Merchants of Buenos Ayres — General Satisfaction at Urquiza's Proclamation — Levying of Troops in Entre Rios — Revolt at Basualdo — Disbanding of Urquiza's Troops — Paraguayan and English Volunteers — Triple Alliance Treaty — Its Want of Common Sense — The Principles of a " Walk over the Course " — Explanation of its various Articles 294 CHAPTEE XXXIV. Disputes about Boundaries — Reciprocal Fidelity — The Protocol, like a Postscript to a Lady's Letter — Forgetfulness of the Item, "First catch your Hare " — Intentions of Paraguayan Field-Marshal — Opinions of Admiral Elliot — Lopez's Ambition of Military Fame — Paraguay not a Republic — Suspicions of Lopez's Desire to establish a Monarchy — First Symptoms of this in the Paraguayan " Order of Merit " — Its Grades and Regulations — Decorations of those invested — Class of Men on whom it is to be conferred — Exclusion of Presidents of other Republics — Electric Telegraphy in Paraguay — " Telegrafos Ambulantes " — Paraguayan Bravery — On board the ' Dotorel ' — Stolidity 302 c xxu CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXXV.

"No tengo Ordines" — Sergeant Gonzalez who fought ten Brazilians — Prospects for the Future deduced from Contingencies of the Past — The Basualdo Revolt, and Disbandment — Political Error of Triple Alliance — Chemical Incompatibilities — Progress of Objects sought — Naval Battle of Riachuelo — Land Battle of Yatay — Siege of Uruguayana — • Scene on giving up — List of Trophies taken — The bloodless Victory — Extracts from Colonel Palleja's Journal — Things noted down by Heaven's Recording .Azigel — The Paraguayans not exhausted — Gift of Jewellery, Gold, and Silver Plate by the Ladies of Asuncion — Statistics of Paraguay in 1857 — Impassive Blockade .. .. Page 309