Cassell's Old and New Edinburgh : its history, its people, and its places

Chapter I. The Canongate

PAGE Its Origin— Songs concerning it— Records— Market Cross— St. John s and the Girth Crosses— Early History— The Town of Herbergare — Canongate Paved— The Governing Body— Raising the Devil— Purchase of the Earl of Roxburgh's " Superiority"— The Foreign Settlement— George Heriot the Elder— Huntly's House— Sir Walter Scott's Story of a Fire— The Morocco Land— Houses of Oliphant of Newland, Lord David Hay, and Earl of Angus— Jack's Land— Shoemaker's Lands— Marquis of Huntly's House— Nisbet of Dirleton's Mansion— Golfers' Land— John and Nicol Paterson— The Porch and Gatehouse of the Abbey— Lucky Spence I

Chapter II. The Canongate

[continued). Execution ofthe Marquis of Montrose— The First Dromedary in Scotland— The Streets Cleansed— Roxburgh House— London Stages of 1712 and 1754 — Religious Intolerance — Declension ofthe Burgh 1 3

Chapter III. The Canongate

(continued). Closes and Alleys on the North Side — Flesh-market and Coull's Closes— Canongate High School — Rae's Close — Kinloch's Lodging— New Street and its Residents— Hall of the Shoemakers — Sir' Thos. Dalyell— The Canongate Workhouse— Panmure House — Hannah Robertson— The White Horse Hostel— The Water Gate ; 17

Chapter IV. The Canongate

(continued). Closes and Alleys on the South Side— Chessel's Court — The Canongate Theatre — Riots Therein—" Douglas " Performed— Mr. Digges and Mrs. Bellamy— St. John's Close— St. John's Street and its Residents— The Hammerman's Close— Horse Wynd, Abbey— House of Lord Napier 22

Chapter V. The Canongate

(continued). Separate or Detached Edifices therein— Sir Walter Scott in the Canongate— The Parish Church— How it came to be built— Its Official Position — Its Burying Ground — The Grave of Fergusson — Monument to Soldiers interred there— Eccentric Henry Prentice — The Tolbooth— Testimony as to its Age— Its later uses— Magdalene Asylum— Linen Hall— Moray House— Its Historical Associations— The Winton House — Whiteford House — The Dark Story of Queensberry House 27

Chapter VI. The Canongate

(concluded). i»Othian Hut— Lord Palmerston— St. Thomas's Hospital— The Tennis Court and its Theatre— Queen Mary's Bath— The Houses of Croft-an-Righ and Clock-mill y-1 -V

Chapter VII. Holyrood Abbey

Foundation of the Abbey— Text of King David's Charter— Original Extent of the Abbey Church— The so-called Miraculous Cross— The Patronages of the Canons — Its Thirty-one Abbots — Its Relics and Revenues PAGE 5° 60 66 74 SS

Chapter VIII. Holyrood Abbey

(concluded). Charter of William I.— Trial os the Scottish Templars— Prendergast's Revenge— Charters by Robert II. and III.— The Lord of the Isles —Coronation of James IL— Marriages of James II. and III.— Church, &c, burned by the English— Plundered by them— Its Restoration by James VII.— The Royal Vault— Description ofthe Chapel Royal -Plundered at the Revolution— Ruined in 1768— The West Front— The Belhaven Monument— The Churchyard— Extent of Present Ruin— The Sanctuary— The Abbey Bells ....

Chapter IX. Holyrood Palace

First Notice of its History— Marriage of James IV.— The Scots of the Days of Flodden— A Brawl in the Palace— James V.'s. Tower— The Gudeman of Ballengeich— His Marriage— Death of Queen Magdalene— The Council of November, 1542— A Standing Army Proposed— The Muscovite Ambassadors Entertained by the Queen Regent ..........

Chapter X. Holyrood Palace

(continued). Queen Mary's Apartments— Her Arrival in Edinburgh— Riot in the Chapel Royal— "The Queen's Maries "—Interview with Knox— Mary's Marriage with Darnley — The Position of Rizzio— The Murder of Rizzio— Burial of Darnley — Marriage of Mary and Bothwell— Mary's Last Visit to Holyrood— James VI. and the " Mad" Earl of Bothwell— Baptism of the Queen of Bohemia and Charles I.— Taylor the Water-poet at Holyrood— Charles I. 's Imprisonment — Palace Burned and Re-built— The Palace before 1650 — The Present Palace — The Quadrangle — The Gallery of the Kings — The Tapestry — The Audience-Chamber ......••*

Chapter XI. Holyrood Palace

(concluded). The King's Birthday in 1665 — James Duke of Albany — The Duchess of Albany and General Dalzell — Funeral of the Duke of Rothes— A Gladiatorial Exhibition — Departure of the Scottish Household Troops — The Hunters' Company's Balls — First and Second Visits of the Royal Family of France — Recent Improvements— St. Anne's Yard removed— The Ornamental Fountain built

Chapter XII. The Mound

The North Loch used for Sousings and Duckings— The Boats, Swans, Ducks, and Eels— Accidents in the Loch— Last Appearance of the Loch— Formation of the Mound—" Geordie Boyd's Mud Brig"— The Rotunda— Royal Institution— Board of Manufactures— History of the Board— The Equivalent Money— Sir J. Shaw Lefevre's Report— School of Design— Gallery of Sculpture— Royal Society of Edinburgh — Museum of Antiquities 80

Chapter XIII. The Mound

(concluded). The Art Galleries— The National Gallery— The Various Collections— The Royal Scottish Academy— Early Scottish Artists— The Institu. tion— The First Exhibition in Edinburgh— Foundation of the Academy— Presidents : G. Watson, Sir William Allan, Sir J. W. Gordon, Sir George Harvey, Sir Daniel Macnee — The Spalding Fund

Chapter XIV. The Head Of The Mound

The Bank of Scotland— Its Charter— Rivalry of the Royal Bank Notes for £5 and for 5s. — The New Bank of Scotland— Its Present Aspect — The Projects of Mr. Trotter and Sir Thomas Dick Lauder — The National Security Savings Bank of Edinburgh — The Free Church College and Assembly Hall — Their Foundation — Constitution — Library — Museum — Bursaries— Missionary and Theological Societies — The Dining Hall, &c. — The West Princes Street Gardens — The Proposed Canal and Seaport — The East Princes Street Gardens— Railway Terminus— Waverley Bridge and Market CONTENTS. V

Chapter XV. The Calton Hill

PAGE Origin of the Name— Gibbet and Battery thereon— The Quarry Holes— The Monastery of Greenside Built— The Leper Hospital— The Tournament Ground and Playfield — Church of Greenside — Burgh of Calton — Rev. Rowland Hill— Regent Bridge Built — Observatory and Astronomical Institution — Bridewell Built — Hume's Tomb — The Political Martyrs' Monument — The Jews' Place of Burial — Monument of Nelson — National Monument, and those of Stewart, Playfair, and Burns — The High School — Foundation Laid — Architecture and Extent— The Opening— Instruction— Rectors of the New School— Lintel of the Old School— Lord Brougham's Opinion of the Institution ., .....•■••• IOQ

Chapter XVI. The New Town

The Site before the Streets — The Lang Dykes — Wood's Farm — Drumsheugh House — Bearford's Parks — The Houses of Easter and Wester Coates — Gabriel's Road — Craig's Plan of the New Town— John Young builds the First House Therein— Extension of the Town Westward 1 1 4

Chapter XVII. Princes Street

A Glance at Society —Change of Manners, &c. — The Irish Giants — Poole's Coffee-house — Shop of Constable & Co. — Weir's Museum, 1794— The Grand Duke Nicholas — North British Insurance Life Association — Old Tax Office and New Club — Craig of Riccarton — "The White Rose of Scotland "—St. John's Chapel— Its Tower and Vaults, &c. — The Scott Monument and its Museum — The Statues of* Professor Wilson, Allan Ramsay, Adam Black, Sir James Simpson, and Dr. Livingstone — The General Improvements in Princes Street 119

Chapter XVIII. The Church Of St

CUTHBERT. History and Antiquity — Old Views of it Described — First Protestant Incumbents — The Old Manse— Old Communion Cups — Pillaged by Cromwell — Ruined by the Siege of 1689, and again in 1745 — Deaths of Messrs. McVicar and Pitcairn — Early Body-snatchers — Demolition of the Old Church— Erection of the New — Case of Heart-burial — Old Tombs and Vaults — The Nisbets of Dean — The Old Poor House— Kirkbraehead Road— Lothian Road— Dr. Candlish's Church— Military Academy — New Caledonian Railway Station . . . I31

Chapter XIX. George Street

Major Andrew Fraser— The Father of Miss Ferrier— Grant of Kilgraston— William Blackwood and his Magazine— The Mother of* Sir Walter Scott — Sir John Hay, Banker — Colquhoun of Killermont — Mrs. Murray of Henderland— The Houses of Sir J. W. Gordon, Sir James Hall, and Sir John Sinclair of Ulbster — St. Andrew's Church— Scene of the Disruption — Physicians' Hall — Glance at the History of the College of Physicians — Sold and Removed — The Commercial Bank — Its Constitution — Assembly Rooms — Rules of 1789— Banquet to Black Watch— " The Author of ' Waverley '"—The Music Hall— The New Union Bank— Its Formation, &c. — The Masonic Hall— Watson's Picture of Burns— Statues of George IV., Pitt, and Chalmers 139

Chapter XX. Queen Street

The Philosophical Institution — House of Baron Orde — New Physicians' Hall — Sir James Y. Simpson, M.D. — The House of Professor Wilson — Sir John Leslie — Lord Rockville — Sir James Grant of Grant — The Hopetoun Rooms — Edinburgh Educational Institution for Ladies ; « 15'

Chapter XXI. The Streets Crossing George Street, And Those Parallel With It

Rose Street— Miss Burns and Bailie Creech — Sir Egerton Leigh— Robert Pollok — Thistle Street— The Dispensary — Hill Street— Count d'Albany— St. Andrew Street— Hugo Arnot — David, Earl of Buchan — St. David Street— David Hume— Sir Walter Scott and Basil Hall— Hanover Street— Sir J. Graham Dalyell— Offices of Association for the Improvement of the Poor— Frederick Street— Grant of Corrimony— Castle Street— A Dinner with Sir Walter Scott— Skene of Rubislaw— Macvey Napier— Castle Street and Charlotte Street . VI PAGE 166 172 176 180 185

Chapter XXII. St

ANDREW SQUARE. St. Andrew Square— List of Early Residents— Count Borowlaski— Miss Gordon of Cluny— Scottish Widows' Fund— Dr. A. K. Johnston —Scottish Provident Institution— House in which Lord Brougham was Born— Scottish Equitable Society— Chartens of Amisfield— Douglas's Hotel— Sir Philip Ainslie— British Linen Company— National Bank- -Royal Bank— The Melville and Hopetoun Monuments — Ambrose's Tavern

Chapter XXIII. Charlotte Square

Charlotte Square— Its Early Occupants— Sir John Sinclair, Bart.— Lamond of that Ilk— Sir William Fettes— Lord Chief Commissioner Adam — Alexander Dirom— St. George's Church -The Rev. Andrew Thomson— Prince Consort's Memorial— The Parallelogram of the first New Town

Chapter XXIV. Elder

STREET— LEITH STREET— BROUGHTON STREET. Elder Street— Leith Street— The old "Black Bull "—Margarot— The Theatre Royal— Its Predecessors on the same Site— The Circus— Corri's Rooms— The Pantheon— Caledonian Theatre— Adelphi Theatre— Queen's Theatre and Opera House— Burned and Rebuilt— St. Mary's Chapel — Bishop Cameron

Chapter XXV. The Village And Barony Of Broughton

Broughton — The Village and Barony— The Loan — Broughton first mentioned — Feudal Superiors — Witches Burned — Leslie's Head-quarters — Gordon of Ellon's Children Murdered — Taken Red Hand— The Tolbooth of the Burgh— The Minute Books — Free Burgesses- Modern Churches erected in the Bounds of the Barony

Chapter XXVI. The Northern New Town

Picardy Place— Lords Eldin and Craig— Sir David Milne— John Abercrombie— Lord Newton— Commissioner Osborne— St. Paul's Church —St. George's Chapel— William Douglas, Artist— Professor Playfair— General Scott of Bellevue— Drummond Place— C. K. Sharpe of Hoddam— Lord Robertson— Abercrombie Place and Heriot Row— Miss Ferrier— House in which H. McKenzie died — Rev. A. Alison — Great King Street — Sir R. Christison — Sir William Hamilton — Sir William Allan — Lord Colonsay, &c

Chapter XXVII. The Northern New Town

(concluded). Admiral Fairfax— Bishop Terrot— Brigadier Hope— Sir T. M. Brisbane— Lord Meadowbank— Ewbank the R.S.A.— Death of Professor Wilson— Moray Place and its District— Lord President Hope— The Last Abode of Jeffrey— Baron Hume and Lord Moncrieff— Forres Street— Thomas Chalmers, D.D.— St. Cohne Street— Captain Basil Hall— Ainslie Place— Dugald Stewart— Dean Ramsay— Great Stuart Street — Professor Aytoun — Miss Graham of Duntroon — Lord Jerviswoode I9S

Chapter XXVIII. The Western New

TOWN— HAYMARKET— DALRY— FOUNTAINBRIDGE. Maitland Street and Shandwick Place— The Albert Institute— Last Residence of Sir Wa'ter Scott in Edinburgh — Lieutenant-General Dundas — Melville Street — Patrick F. Tytler- -Manor Place— St. Mary's Cathedral — The Foundation Laid — Its Size and Aspect — Opened for Service— The Copestone and Cross placed on the Spire— Haymarket Station— Winter Garden — Donaldson's Hospital — Castle Terrace- Its Churches— Castle Barns— The U. P. Theological Hall— Union Canal— First Boat Launched— Dairy— The Chieslies — The Caledonian Distillery— Fountainbridge— Earl Grey Street— Professor G. J- Bell— The Slaughter-houses— Bain Whyt of Bainfield —North British India Rubber Works— Scottish Vulcanite Company — Adam Ritchie CONTENTS. VII

Chapter XXIX. West Port

PAGE The West Port — Its Boundaries— Malefactors' Heads — The City Gates— Royal Entrances— Mary of Guise— Anne of Denmark — Charles I. General Assembly Expelled— A Witch — Jesuit Church — The Lawsons of the Highriggs— Lady Lawson's Wynd — The Tilting Ground — King's Stables — The Vennel— Tanner's Close — Burke and Hare — Their Native Country — Their " Den," Log's Lodgings — Their Murders— The Mode of them- Trial and Sentence— Execution and Dismemberment 221

Chapter XXX. The Grassmarket

The Grassmarket — The Mart of 1477 — Margaret Tudor — Noted Executions—" Half Hangit Maggie Dickson" — Italian Mountebanks — Grey Friary Founded by James I. — Henry VI. of England a Fugitive— The Grey Friars Port — New Corn Exchange— The White Horse Inn — Carriers — The Castle Wynd— First Gaelic Chapel there— Currie's Close— The Cockpit— Story of Watt and Downie " The Friends of the People "—Their Trial and Sentence— Execution of Watt 230

Chapter XXXI. The Cowgate

The Cowgate— Origin and General History of the Thoroughfare— First Houses built there— The Vernour's Tenement— Alexander Alesse— Division of the City in 1512 — " Dichting the Calsay "in 1518— The Cowgate Port — Beggars in 1616 — Gilbert Blakhal — Names ofthe most Ancient Closes — the North Side of the Street — MacLellan's Land— Mrs. Syme — John Nimmo — Dr. Graham — The House of Sir Thomas Hope and Lady Mar — The Old Back Stairs— Tragic Story of Captain Cayley — Old Meal Market — Riots in 1763 — The Episcopal Chapel, now St. Patrick's Roman Catholic Church— Trial of the Rev. Mr. Fitzsimmons 238

CHAPTER XXXIL COWGATE

(concluded). The South Side of the Street — The High School Wynd — "Claudero" — Robertson's Close — House of the Bishops of Dunkeld — Tomb of Gavin Douglas— Kirk-of-Field and College Wynd— House of the Earls of Queensberry— Robert Monteith— Oliver Goldsmith— Dr. Joseph Black — House in which Sir Walter Scott was born — St. Peter's Pend — House of Andro Symson, the Printer, 1697 — The Horse Wynd — Galloway House — Guthrie Street — Tailors' Hall — French Ambassador's Chapel and John Dickison's House — Tam o' the Cowgate and James VI. — The Hammermen's Land and Hall — Magdalene Chapel — John Craig — A Glance at the Ancient Corporations — The Hammermen — Their Charter — Seal and Progress — The Cordiners — First Strike in the Trade — Skinners and Furriers — Websters —Hat and Bonnet makers — Fleshers— Coopers— Tailors— Candle-makers — Baxters— Barbers— Chirurgeons 250

Chapter XXXIII. The Society

The Candlemaker Row — The " Cunzie Nook " — Time of Charles I. — The Candlemakers' Hall — The Affair of Dr. Symons — The Society, 1598 — Brown Square — Proposed Statue to George III., 1764 — Distinguished Inhabitants — Sir Islay Campbell — Lord Glenlee — Haig of Eeimerside — Sir John Leslie — Miss Jeannie Elliot — Argyle Square — Origin of it — Dr. Hugh Blair — The Sutties of that Ilk — Trades Maiden Hospital— Minto House and the Elliots — New Medical School — Baptist Church — Chambers Street — Industrial Museum of Science and Art — Its Great Hall and adjoining Halls — Aim of the Architect — Contents and Models briefly glanced at — New Watt Institution and School of Arts — Phrenological Museum — New Free Tron Church — New Training College of the Church of Scotland —The Dental Hospital— The Theatre of Varieties 267

Chapter XXXIV. The Lord Provosts Of Edinburgh

The First Magistrate of Edinburgh— Some noted Provosts— William de Dederyk, Alderman— John Wigmer and the Ransom of David II. —John of Quhitness, First Provost— William Bertraham— The Golden Charter— City Pipers— Archibald Bell-the-cat— Lord Home — Arran and Kilspindie— Lord Maxwell — "Greysteel's" Penance — James VI. and the Council — Lord Fyvie — Provost Tod and Gordon's Map — The First Lord Provost — George Drummond — Freedom of the City given to Benjamin Franklin— Sir Lawrence Dundas and the Parliamentary Contest — Sir James Hunter Blair — Riots of 1792 — Provost Coulter's Funeral — Lord Lynedoch— Recent Provosts— The First Englishman who was Lord Provost of Edinburgh

Chapter XXXV. Infirmary Street And The Old High School

PAGE Blackfriars Monastery— Its Foundation— Destroyed by Fire— John Black the Dominican— The Friary Gardens— Lady Yester : her Church and Tomb— The Burying Ground— The Old High School— The Ancient Grammar School— David Vocat— School Founded— Hercules Rollock— Early Classes— The House Destroyed by the English— The Bleis-Silver— David Malloch— The Old High School— Thomas Ruddiman, Rector — Barclay's Class— Henry Mackenzie's Reminiscences — Dr. Adam, Rector : his Grammar — New Edifice Proposed and Erected— The School-boy Days of Sir Walter Scott— Allan Masterton— The School in 1303— Death of Rector Adam— James Pillans, M. A., and A. R. Carson, Rectors— The New School Projected— The Old one Abandoned . . . 284

Chapter XXXVI. The Old Royal

INFIRMARY— SURGEON SQUARE. The Old Royal Infirmary— Projected in time of George I.— The First Hospital Opened— The Royal Charter— Second Hospital Built— Opened 1741— Size and Constitution — Benefactors' Patients — Struck by Lightning— Chaplain's Duties — Cases in the Present Day — The Keith Fund— Notabilities of Surgeon Square— The House of Curriehill— The Hall of the Royal and Medical Society— Its Foundation — Bell's Surgical Theatre 297

Chapter XXXVII. Arthur's Seat And Its Vicinity

The Sanctuary— Geology ofthe Hill— Origin of its Name, and that ofthe Craigs— The Park Walls, 1554— A Banquet alfresco— The Pestilence — A Duel — "The Guttit Haddie" — Mutiny of the Old 78th Regiment — Proposed House on the Summit — Muschat and his Cairn — Radical Road Formed — May Day — Skeletons found at the Wells o' Wearie — Park Improvements — The Hunter's Bog — Legend of the Hangman's Craig — Duddingston — The Church — Rev. J. Thomson— Robert Monteith — The Loch — Its Swans — Skaters — The Duddingston Thorn — The Argyle and Abercorn Families- -The Earl of Moira — Lady Flora Hastings — Cauvin's Hospital — Parson's Green — St. Anthony's Chapel and Well — The Volunteer Review before the Queen S°3

Chapter Xxxviii. Bristo And The Potterrow

Bristo Street — The Darien House— The Earl of Rosebery — Old Charity Workhouse — A Strike in 1764— Old George Inn — U. P. Church —Dr. Peddie— Sir Walter Scott's First School — The General's Entry and the Dalrymples of Stair — Burns and Clarinda — Crichton Street— Alison Rutherford of Fairnielee— The Eastern Portsburgh— The Duke of Lennox Men-The Plague— The Covenanters' Gun Foundry — A Witch — A Contumacious Barber — Tailors' Hall— Story of Jean Brown— Duke of Douglas's House— Thomas Campbell the Poet— Earl of Murray's House — Charles Street and Field 323

Chapter XXXIX. Nicolson Street And Square

Lady Nicolson— Her Pillar— Royal Riding School— M. Angelo— New Surgeons' Hall— The Earl of Leven— Dr. Borthwick Gilchrist— The Blind Asylum — John Maclaren — Sir David Wilkie — Roxburgh Parish — Lady Glenorchy's Chapel 334

Chapter XL. George Square And The Vicinity

Ross House— The last Lord Ross— Earlier Residents in the Square — House of Walter Scott, W.S.— Sir Walter's Boyhood— Bickers— Green Breeks- The Edinburgh Light Horse— The Scots Brigade— Admiral Duncan— Lord Advocate Dundas— The Grants of Kilgraston— Baron Dundas — Sedan Chairs— Campbells of Succoth— Music Class Room — The Eight Southern Districts — Chapel of Ease Windmill Street— Buccleuch Place— Jeffrey's First House there— The Burgh Loch— Society of Improvers— The Meadows .... 33S

Chapter XLI. Hope Park End

"The Douglas Cause," or Story of Lady Jane Douglas- Stewart — Hugh Lord Semple— " The Chevalier "—The Archers* Hall— Royal Company cf Archers formed— Their Jacobitism— Their Colours— Early Parades— Constitution and Admission— Their Hall built Messrs. Nelsons' Establishment— Thomas Nelson CONTENTS. IX

Chapter XLII. Lauriston

The New University Buildings— The Estimates and Accommodation— George Watson's Hospital— Founded— Opened and Sold— The New Royal Infirmary— Its Capabilities for Accommodation— Simpson Memorial Hospital— Sick Children's Hospital— Merchant Maiden Hospital— Watson's Schools— Lauriston United Presbyterian Church— St. Catharine's Convent 355

Chapter XLIII. George Heriot's Hospital And The Greyfriars Church

Notice of George Heriot— Dies Childless— His Will— The Hospital founded— Its Progress— The Master Masons— Opened— Number of Scholars— Dr. Balcanquall— Alterations— The Edifice— The Architecture of it— Heriot's Day and Infant Schools in the City— Lunardi's Balloon Ascent— Royal Edinburgh Volunteers— The Heriot Brewery— Old Greyfriars Church— The Covenant— The Cromwellians— The Covenanting Prisoners— The Martyr's Tomb— New Greyfriars— Dr. Wallace— Dr. Robertson— Dr. Erskine— Old Tombs in the Church —Grant by Queen Mary— Morton Interred— State of the Ground in 1779— The Graves of Buchanan and others— Bones from St. Giles's Church 3°3 OLD HOUSES IN THE COWGATE. (From an Etching published in 1816.) LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. MEETING OF THE GENERAL ASSEMBLY OF THE KIRK OF SCOTLAND IN THE OLD KIRK, ST. GILES'S CATHEDRAL, 1 787 [after David Allan). — Frontispiece.

PAGE The Canongate Tolbooth ......

I The Burgh Seal of the Canongate .... 3 The Market Cross, Canongate ..... 3 Haddington's Entry ....... 4 East End of High Street, Nether Bow, and West End of Canongate ....... 5 Effigy of the Moor, Morocco Land .... 7 The Marquis of Huntly's House, from the Canongate . 8 The Marquis of Huntly's House, from Bakehouse Close 9 Nisbet of Dirleton's House . . . . .12 The Golfers' Land . . . . . . -13 The Canongate — Continuation Eastward of Plan on page 5 16 Tolbooth Wynd 20 Lintel of John Hunter's House, Panmure Close . . 21 The Water Gate 24 Chessel's Buildings ....... 25 Lintel above the Door of Sir A. Acheson's House . 27 Smollett's House, St. John Street 2S The Canongate Church 29 Fergusson's Grave ....... 30 The Stocks, from the Canongate Tolbooth . . -31 Levee Room in Moray House ; Summer House in the Garden of Moray House ; Arbour in the Garden of Moray House ; Portion of a Ceiling in Moray House 32 Moray House ........ 33 East End of the Canongate 36 The Canongate, looking West ..... 37 The Palace Gate 40 Queen Mary's Bath . . . - . -A1 Croft-an-righ House 44 Holyrood Palace and Abbey 45 Seal of Holyrood Abbey 46 The Abbey Church 48 PAGE Interior of the Chapel Royal of Holyrood House, 1687 49 Ground Plan of the Chapel Royal of Holyrood House 52 West Front of Holyrood Abbey Church . . . 53 Interior of Holyrood Church, looking East . . 56 North Entrance to the Nave of Holyrood Abbey Chut ch 57 The Belhaven Monument, Holyrood Church . . 60 Isometric Projection of the Royal Palace of Holyrood House ....... 61 The Abbey Port ....... 64 The Queen Mary Apartments, Holyrood Palace To face pa%e 66 Holyrood Palace, the Regent Moray's House, the Royal Gardens, and Ancient Horologe . . 68 The Palace of Holyrood House, the South and North Gardens, the Abbey Kirk, and the Kirkyard . 69 Holyrood Palace as it was before the Fire of 1650 . 72 Holyrood Palace and Abbey Church, from the South- E^t 73 The Royal Apartments, Holyrood Palace To face page 74 The Quadrangle, Holyrood Palace . . . -76 The Gallery of the Kings, Holyrood Palace . . 77 Holyrood Palace, West Front ..... 80 The Holyrood Fountain . . . . . .

Si The Royal Institution as it was in 1S29 ... 84 The Royal Institution ....... 85 The National Gallery ....... 88 Interior of the National Gallery .... 89 The Bank of Scotland, from Princes Street Gardens . 96 Head of the Mound, prior to the erection of the Free Church College, 1S44 . . To face sage 97 Library of the Free Church College .... 97 West Princes Street Gardens, 1875 .... 101 Nelson's Monument, Calton Hill, from Princes Street . 104 The Calton Hill, Calton Gaol, Burying-ground, and Monuments ... ..... LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XI PAGE PAGE The Calton Burying-ground : Hume's Grave . . 108 Heriot Row ; Royal Circus ; India Place ; Ainslie Place ; Moray Place 201 The National Monument, Calton Hill . . . 109 Dugald Stewart's Monument 1 1 1 Francis, Lord Jeffrey 204 Burns's Monument, Calton Hill 112 Dr. Chalmers in 182 1 205 The High School . . . . . . ■ 113 William Edmonstoune Aytoun ..... 208 The Mansion of Easter Coates ;i6 St. Mary's Cathedral, Exterior View .... 212 Craig's Plan of che New Streets and Squares intended for the City of Edinburgh 117 St. Mary's Cathedral, Interior View . . . . 213 Donaldson's Hospitai . . .

To face page 214 The Old Town, from Princes Street, 1S14 To face page 120 Edinburgh Castle from Port Hopetoun, 1825 . . 216 Archibald Constable . . . . . , .121 Dairy Manor House ...... . 217 Princes Street, looking East from Scott's Monument . 124 The Suburbs of the West Port, 1646 .... 220 The Castle, Ramsay Gardens, Bank of Scotland, and Earthen Mound, from Princes Street, 1814 Portsburgh Court House 221 Highriggs House, 1854 ...... 222 To face page 125 Old Houses in the West Port, near the haunts of Burke and Hare, 1869 ....... 224 Princes Street, looking West ..... 125 Dean Ramsay . . . . . . . .128 The Grassmarket, from the West Port, 1825 . . 225 The Scott Monument, Princes Street . . . 129 The Grassmarket in 1646 228 Professor Wilson's Statue . . . . . .130 Ballantyne's Close, Grassmarket, 1850 . . . 229 Allan Ramsay's Statue . . . . . .130 The Temple Lands, Grassmarket .... 232 St. Cuthbert's Church 133 East End of the Grassmarket, showing the West Bow, the Gallows, and Old Corn Market . . . 233 Old West Kirk, and Walls of the Little Kirk, 1772 . 136 St. Cuthbert's Church . . . . . 137 The Corn Exchange, Grassmarket .... 236 Kirkbraehead House 140 Head of Cowgate, from Grassmarket, 1825 ; Grassmarket from Ccwgate ; the Vennel ; South Side of Grassmarket, 1820; Grassmarket looking West George Street To face pa«e 141 The Saloon in Messrs. Blackwoods' Establishment . 141 St. Andrew's Church 145 To face page 237 Interior of St. Andrew's Church 148 The White Hart Inn, Grassmarket .... 237 Old Physicians' Hall, George Street, 1829 . . . 149 Old Houses in the Cowgate, near the South Bridge, 1S50 240 The Music Hall, George Street 152 Sir James Young Simpson . . . . . .156 The Cowgate, from the Port to College Wynd, 1646 . 241 Queen Street ........ 160 Old Houses in the Cowgate ..... 244 Lord Kames and Hugo Arnot ..... 161 East End of the Cowgate, looking towards the South Back of Canongate . . . . . .245 Sir Walter Scott's House, Castle Street . . .164 St.

Andrew Square 169 The Meal Market, Cowgate 24S The Royal Bank of Scotland ; the British Linen Company's Bank ; the Scottish Union and National Insurance Company's Office ; the Scottish Widows' Fund Office 172 The Episcopal Chapel, Cowgate ..... 249 Tailors' Hall, Cowgate 252 High School Wynd 253 Sir Walter Scott 254 Charlotte Square, showing St. George's Church . .173 Sir Walter Scott's Arms 254 Adam's Design for St. George's Church, Charlotte Square 176 College Wynd 256 Symson the Printer's House, 1875 .... 257 The Albert Memorial, Charlotte Square . . .177 The French Ambassador's Chapel .... 260 Remains of the Village of Old Broughton, 1S52 . .180 The Broughton Tolbooth . . . . . .181 The Cowgate, from the College Wynd to the Grassmarket 261 Broughton Burn, 1850 184 Picardy Village and Gayfield House . . . 1S5 The Chapel and Hospital of St. Mary Magdalene . 264 Interior of the Chapel of St. Mary Magdalene . . 265 The New Town, Edinburgh, 1804 . . . . 1S9 Tablet on the Chapel of St. Mary Magdalene . . 26S The Excise Office, Drummond Place .... 192 The Right Hon. Charles Hope, commanding the Edinburgh Volunteers 197 The Cunzie House, Candlemaker Row, 1S50 . . 269 Old Houses, Society, 1852 PAGE PAGE The First Trades Maiden Hospital .... 273 Room in Clarinda's House, General's Entry . . 333 The Industrial Museum . . .

To face page 275 The Mahogany Land, Potterrow, 182 1 . . • 336 Old Minto House, 1873 276 Surgeon's Hall 337 Chambers Street 277 The Blind Asylum (formerly the house of Dr. Joseph Black), Nicolson Street, 1820 .... 340 Sir James Falshaw, Bart., and H.M. Lieutenant of Edinburgh 285 George Square, showing house (second on the left) of Sir Walter Scott's father 341 Lady Yester's Church, 1820 288 Carved Stone which was over the Main Entrance to the High School from 1578 to 1777 . . . 289 Park Place, showing Campbell of Succoth's House . 344 The Organ in the Music-class Room .... 345 The High School erected in 1578 .... 292 The Meadows, about 1 8 10 348 The Second High School, 1820 ..... 296 The Burgh Loch 349 The Archers' Hall 352 Dr. Adam 297 The Old Royal Infirmary 300 Archers' Hall : the Dining Hall 353 The Old Royal Infirmary, 1S20 301 Thomas Nelson ........ 35^ Plan of Arthur's Seat (the Sanctuary of Holyrood) . 304 The Edinburgh University Medical School, Lauriston . 357 The Holyrood Dairy ....... 305 George Watson's Hospital 360 Clockmill House, 1780 308 Bird's-eye View of the New Royal Infirmary, from the North-East, 1878 36 1 Duddingston Village, from the Queen's Drive . . 309 St. Margaret's Well 311 Reduced Facsimile of a View of Heriot's Hospital by Gordon of Rothiemay ...... 364 Duddingston Church (Exterior) 312 Duddingston Church (Interior) ..... 313 George Heriot 365 Reduced Facsimile of an Old Engraving of Heriot's Hospital 368 Gateway of Duddingston Church, showing the Jougs and Louping-on-Stone ..... 3J4 Duddingston Loch . . . . . . .316 Heriot's Hospital, from the South-west To face page 369 Prince Charlie's House, Duddingston . . . . 317 The Chapel, Heriot's Hospital 369 Ruins of St. Anthony's Chapel, looking towards Leith 320 Heriot's Hospital : the Council Room .... 372 The Volunteer Review in the Queen's Park, 1860 The North Gateway of Heriot's Hospital . . . 373 To face page 321 Heriot's Hospital, 1779 ; Porter's Lodge ; Dining Hall ; Quadrangle, looking North ; Quadrangle, looking South 376 St. Anthony's Chapel in 1544 and 1854 . . . 321 St. Anthony's Well 322 The Charity Workhouse, 1820 324 Royal Edinburgh Volunteer 377 The Repentance Stool, from Old Greyfriars Church . 379 Darien House, 1750 325 The Merchant Maiden's Hospital, Bristo, 1820 . . 32S The Greyfriars Churches . . . . . . 380 Tombs in Greyfriars Churchyard, Edinburgh . . 381 Bristo Port, 1820 329 Clarinda's House, General's Entry .... 332 Monogram of George Heriot's Name ....