Cassell's Old and New Edinburgh ... Illustrated, etc

Front matter

of Edinburgh," and is again confirmed as such in the charter of Alexander III. and several Papal bulls, and the " paroche kirk within the said Castell," is distinctly referred to by the Presbytery of Edin burgh in 1595.* In 1753 it was divided into three storeys, and filled with tents, cannon, and other mu nitions of war. entrance to the apartment in which her daughter was delivered of James VI. It was formerly part of a large room which, before being partitioned, measured 30 by 25 feet. On the nth of February, 1567, after the murder of Darnley, Mary retired to this apartment, where she had the walls hung with black, and remained in strict seclusion until after the funeral. Killigrew, who came from Elizabeth with letters of condolence, on his in troduction found " the Queen's Majesty in a dark chamber, so that he could not see her face, but by her words she seemed very doleful."

In 1849, an antique iron chisel, spear-shaped, was found in the fireplace of this apartment, which was long used as a canteen for the soldiers, but has now been renovated, though in a rude and inelegant form. A winding stair descends from the new barracks to the butts, where the rock is defended by the western wall and Bute's Battery, near which, at an angle, a turret, named the Queen's Post, occupies the site of St. Margaret's Tower. Fifty feet below the level of the rock is another guard house and one of the draw-wells poisoned by the English in 1572. Near it is the ancient postern gate, where Dundee held his parley with the Duke of Gordon in 1688, and through which, perhaps, St. Margaret's body was borne in 1093. Below the grand hall are a double tier of strongly-vaulted dungeons, entered by a passage from the west, and secured by an intricate arrange ment of iron gates and massive chains.

In one of these Kirkaldy of Grange buried his brother David Melville. The small loophole that admits light into each of these huge vaults, whose origin is lost in the mists of antiquity, is strongly secured by three ranges of iron bars. Within these drear abodes have captives of all kinds pined, and latterly the French prisoners, forty of whom slept in each. In some are still the wooden frames to which their hammocks were slung. Under Queen Mary's room there is one dungeon excavated out of the solid rock, and having, as we have said, an iron staple in its wall to which the prisoner was chained. From thence there is a sudden ascent by steps, behind the banquette of the bastions and near the principal magazine, to Mylne's Mount, where there is another grate for a bale-fire to alarm Fife, Stirling, and the north.

Chapter I. Prehistoric Edinburgh

The Site before the Houses — Traces of Early Inhabitants — The Caledonian Tribes— Agricola's Invasion— Subjection of the Scottish Lowlands — The Roman Way — Edinburgh never occupied permanently— Various Roman Remains : Urns, Coins, Busts ; Swords, Spears, and other Weapons — Ancient Coffins — The Camus, or Cath-stone — Origin of the name " Edinburgh" — Dinas-Eiddyn— The Battle of Catraeth 9

Chapter II. The Castle Of Edinburgh

Of its Origin and remoter History — The Legends concerning it — Ebranke — St. Monena — Defeat of the Saxons by King Bridei — King Ed«in — King Grime — The Story of Grime and Bertha of Badhcu — The Starting point of authentic Edinburgh History — St. Margaret — Her Piety and amiable Disposition— Her Chapel— Her Death— Restoration of her Oratory— Her Burial— Donald Bane— King David I. — The Royal Gardens, afterwards the North Loch *4

Chapter III. Castle Of Edinburgh

[continued). The Legend of the White Hart— Holyrood Abbey founded — The Monks of the Castrum Puellarum— David I.'s numerous Endowments — His Death — Fergus, Lord of Galloway, dies there — William the Lion — Castle Garrisoned by the English for Twelve Years— The Castle a Royal Residence — The War of the Scottish Succession — The Castle in the hands of Edward I. — Frank's Escalade — The Fortress Dismantled— Again in the hands of the English— Bullock's Stratagem for its Re-capture — David's Tower 21

Chapter IV. Castle Of Edinburgh

{continued). Progress of the City— Ambassador of Charles VI.— Edinburgh bumed— Henry IV. baffled— Albany's Prophecy— Laws regarding the Building of Houses — Sumptuary Laws, 1457 — Murder of James I. — Coronationof JamesII.— Court Intrigues — Lord ChancellorCrichton — Arrogance of the Earl of Douglas— Faction Wars — The Castle Besieged—" The Black Dinner " — Edinburgh Walled— Its Strength —Bale-fires . 26

Chapter V. Edinburgh Castle

{continued). James III. and his haughty Nobility — Plots of the Duke of Albany and Earl of Mar— Mysterious Death of Mar— Capture and Escape of the Duke of Albany— Captivity of James III.— Richard of Gloucester at Edinburgh— The "Golden Charter" of the City— " The Blue Blanket " — Accession of James IV. — Tournaments — " The Seven Sisters of Botliwick " — The " Flodden Wall " — The Reign of James V. — "Cleanse the Causeway!" — Edinburgh under the Factions of Nobles — Hertford Attacks the Castle — Death of Mary of Guise — Queen Mary's Apartments in the Castle— Birth of James VI. . , 32

Chapter VI. Edinburgh Castle

{continued). The Siege of 1573 — The City Bombarded from the Castle— Elizabeth's Spy — Drury' s Dispositions for the Siege— Execution of Kirkaldy — Repair of the Ruins — Execution of Morton— Visit of Charles I. — Procession to Holyrood — Coronation of Charles I. — The Struggle against Episcopacy — Siege of 1640 — The Spectre Drummer— Besieged by Cromwell— Under the Protector — The Restoration — The Argyles — The Accession of James VII, — Sentence of the Earl of Argyle — His clever Escape — Imprisoned four years later — The Last Sleep of Argyle — His Death — Torture of Covenanters — Proclamation of William and Mary — The Siege of 1689— Interview between Gordon and Dundee— The Castle invested — Brilliant Defence — Capitulation of the Duke of Gordon — The Spectre of Claverhouse .

Chapter VII. Edinburgh Castle

(concluded). pXQ_. The Torture of Neville Payne— Jacobite Plots— Entombing the Regalia— Project for Surprising the Fortress— Right of Sanctuary Abolished —Lord Drummond's Plot— Some Jacobite Prisoners— " Rebel Ladies "—James Macgregor— The Castle Vaults— Attempts at Escape- Fears as to the Destruction of the Crown, Sword, and Sceptre — Crown-room opened in 1794 — Again in 1817, and the Regalia brought forth— Mons Meg— General Description of the whole Castle "°

Chapter VIII. The Castle Hill

The Esplanade or Castle Hill— The Castle Banks— The Celtic Crosses— The Secret Passage and Well-house Tower— The Church on the Castle Hill — The Reservoir — The House of Allan Ramsay — Executions for Treason, Sorcery, &c. — The Master of Forbes — Lady Jane Douglas— Castle Hill Promenade— Question as to the Proprietary of the Esplanade and Castle Hill 79

Chapter IX. The Castle Hill

(concluded). Dr. Guthrie's Original Ragged School — Old Houses in the Street of the Castle Hill — Duke of Gordon's House, Blair's Close — Webster's Close — Dr. Alex. Webster — Boswell s Court — Hyndford House — Assembly Hall — Houses of the Marquis of Argyle, Sir Andrew Kennedy, the Earl of Cassillis, the Laird of Cockpen — Lord Semple's House — Lord Semple — Palace of Mary of Guise — Its Fate S7

Chapter X. The Lawnmarket

The Lawnmarket— Risps— The Weigh-house— Major Somerville and Captain Crawford— Anderson's Pills— Mylne's Court— James's Court— Sir John Lauder— Sir Islay Campbell— David Hume—" Corsica" Boswell— Dr. Johnson— Dr. Blait — " Gladstone's Land "—A Fire in 1771 94

Chapter XI. The Lawnmarket

(continued). Lady Stair's Close— Gray of Pittendrum— "Aunt Margaret's Mirror"— The Marshal Earl and Countess of Stair— Miss Ferrier— Sir Richard Steele— Martha Countess of Kincardine— Burns's Room in Baxter's Close— The Bridges' Shop in Bank Street— Bailie MacMorran's Story — Sir Francis Grant of Cullen j02

Chapter XII. The Lawnmarket

(continued). The Story of Deacon Brodie-His Career of Guilt-Hanged on his own Gibbet-Mauchine's Close, Robert Gourlay's House and the other Old Houses therein -The Rank of Scotland, 1695-Assassination of Sir George Lockhart-Taken Red Hand-Punishment of Chiesly 112

Chapter XIII. The Lawnmarket

(concluded). Cosford s CIose-The Town House of the Abbot of Cambuskenneth-Tennant's House-Mansion of the Hays-Liberton's Wynd-Johnnie Dowies Tavern-Durns and His Songs-The Place of Execution-Birthplace of "The Man of Feeling "-The Mirror Club- Forrester s Wyndthe Heather Stacks in the Houses-Peter Williamson-Beith's Wynd-Habits of the Lawnmarket Woollen Iraders- Lawnmarket Gazettes ' -Melbourne Place-The County Hall-The Signet and Advocates' Libraries I lS

Chapter XIV. The Tolbooth

Memorials of the Heart of Midlothian, or Old Tolbooth-Sir Walter Scott's Description-The Early Tolbooth- The " Robin Hood " Disturbances-Noted Prisoners-Entries from the Records-Lord Burleigh's Attempts at Escape-The Porteous Mob-The Stories of Katheruie Nairne and of James Hay— The Town Guard-The Royal Bedesmen I2-i CONTENTS. V

Chapter XV. The Church Of St

GILES. pAGE St. Giles's Church— The Patron Saint— Its Origin ami early Norman style— The Renovation of 1829— History of the Structure— Procession of the Saint's Relics— The Preston Relic — The Chapel of the Duke of Albany— Funeral of the Regent Morray — The "Gude Regem .'■ Aisle" — The Assembly Aisle— Dispute between James VI. and the Church Party — Departure of James VI.-- Haddo's Hole — The Napier Tomb — The Spire and Lantern — Clock and Bells— The Krames— Restoration of 1878 ly*

Chapter XVI. The Neighbourhood Of St

GILES'S. St. Giles's Churchyard— The Maison Dieu— The Clam-shell Turnpike— The Grave of Knox— The City Cross— The Summons of Pluto- Executions : KirkalJy, Gilderoy, and others — The Caddies — The Dyvours Stane — The Luckenbooths — The Auld Kirk Style — Byre's Lodging — Lord Coalstoun's Wig— Allan Ramsay's Library and " Creech's Land "—The Edinburgh Halfpenny 148

Chapter XVII. The Parliament House

Site of the Parliament House — The Parliament Hall— Its fine Roof— Proportions— Its External Aspect of Old— Pictures and Statues— The Great South Window — The Side Windows — Scots Prisoners of War — General Monk Feasted — A Scene with Gen. Dalyell — The Fire of 1700 — Riding of the Parliament — The Union — Its dire Effects and ultimate good Results — Trial of Covenanters 157

Chapter XVIII. The Parliament House

(continued). The Faculty of Advocates— The Writers to the Signet— Solicitors before the Supreme Court— The First Lords of Session— The Law Courts — The Court of Session: the Outer and Inner Houses — College of Justice — Supreme Judicature Court — Its Corrupt Nature — How Justice used to be defeated — Abduction of Lord Durie — Some Notable Senators of the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries : Lords Fountainhall, Covington, Monboddo, Kames, H dies, Gardenstone, Arniston, Balmuto, and Hermand 1 66

Chapter XIX. The Parliament Close

Probable Extinction of the Court of Session — Memorabilia of the Parliament Close and Square— Goldsmiths of the Olden Time— George Heriot — His Workshop — His Interview with James VI.— Peter Williamson's Tavern — Royal Exchange — Statue of Charles II. — Bank of Scotland — The Fire of 1700 — The Work of Restoration — John Row's Coffee-house — John's Coffee house — Sylvester Otway — Sir W. Forbes's Bank — Sir Walter Scott's Eulogy on Sir William Forbes — John Kay's Print-shop — The Parliament Stairs — James Sibbald — A Libel Case — Fire in June, 1824 — Dr. Archibald Pitcaim — The " Greping Office " — Painting of King Charles's Statue White -Seal of Arnauld Lammius 1 74

Chapter XX. The Royal

EXCHANGE— THE TRON CHURCH— THE GREAT FIRE OF NOVEMBER, 1824. The Royal Exchange — Laying the Foundation Stone — Description of the Exchange— The Mysterious Statue— The Council Chamber- Convention of Royal Burghs: Constitution thereof, and Powers— Writers' Court — The "Star and Garter" Tavern— Sir Walter Scott's Account of the Scene at Cleriheugh's — Lawyers' High Jinks — The Tron Church — History of the Old Church — The Great Fire of 1824— Incidents of the Conflagration— The Ruins Undermined — Blown up by Captain Head of the Engineers . 183

Chapter XXI. The High Street

A Place for Brawling— First Paved and Lighted— The Meal and Flesh Markets— State of the Streets— Municipal Regulations i6th Century— Tulzies— The Lairds of Airth and Wemyss— The Tweedies of Drummelzier— A Montrose Quarrel— The Slaughter of Lord Torthorwald — A Brawl in 1705 — Attacking a Sedan Chair — Habits in the Seventeenth Century— Abduction of Women and Girls— Sumptuary Laws against Women 1 9 1

Chapter XXII. The High Street

(continued). The City in 1598— Fynes Morison on the Manners of the Inhabitants— The "Lord" Provost of Edinburgh— Police of the City— Taylor the Water Poet— Banquets at the Cross — The hard Case of the Earl of Traquair— A Visit of Hares— The Quack and his Acrobats— A Procession of Covenanters— Early Stages and Street Coaches— Sale of a Dancing-girl — Constables appointed in 1703 — First NumM-r of the Courant — The Caledonian Mercury— Carting away of the strata of Street Filth— Condition of old Houses . 1 ; VI

Chapter XXIII. The High Street

(continued). PAGF, The Black Turnpike— Bitter Reception os Queen Mary— Lambie's Banner— Mary in the Black Turnpike— The House of Fentonbarns— Its Picturesque Appearance— The House of Bassandyne the Printer, 1574—" Bishop's Land," Town House of Archbishop Spottiswood— Its various Tenants— Sir Stuart Thriepland— The Town-house of the Hendersons of Fordel— The Lodging of the Earls of Crawford— The First Shop of Allan Ramsay— The Religious Feeling of the People -Ancrum House— The First Shop of Constable and Co.— Manners and Millar, Booksellers 204

Chapter XXIV. The High Street

(continued). The Neighbourhood of Knox's House— Balmerino Mansion— Singular Accident— The Knox Memorial Church— Society Close— John Knox's House — The "Preaching Window" — His Wives— Attempted Assassination — Last Sermon — Death and Burial — James of Jerusalem— House of Archbishop Sharp— The Birthplace of William Falconer — Old Excise Offices — The Nether Bow Port — The Earlier Gate— The Regent Morton's Surprise Party— The Last Gate— Its Demolition 212

Chapter XXV. The High Street

(continued). The Ancient Markets — The House of Adam Bothwell, Bishop of Orkney — The Bishop and Queen Mary — His Sister Anne— Sir William Dick of Braid— His Colossal Wealth — Hard Fortune — The " Lamentable State " — Advocates' Close— Sir James Stewart's House— Andrew Crosbie, "Counsellor Pleydell" — Scougal's House — His Picture Gallery — Roxburghe Close — Warriston's Close — Lord Philiphaugh 's House — Bruce of Binning's Mansion — Messrs. W. and R. Chambers's Printing and Publishing Establishment- -History of the Firm — House of Sir Thomas Craig— Sir Archibald Johnston of Wariston 219

Chapter XXVI. The High Street

(continued). Mary King's Close— Who was Mary ?— Scourged by the Plague of 1645— Its Mystery— Drummond's Epigram— Prof. Sinclair's "Satan's Invisible World Discovered "—Mr. and Mrs. Collheart's Ghostly Visitors— The Close finally abandoned to Goblins— Craig's Close— Andro Hart, Bookseller and Printer— Andro Hart's Spear— A Menagerie in Craig's Close— The Isle of Man Arms— The Cape Club- Its Mysteries and Officers— Installation of a Knight— Provincial Cape Clubs— The Poker Club— How it Originated— Members- Office-bearers— Old Stamp Office Court— Fortune's Tavern— The beautiful Countess of Eglinton— Her Patronage of Letters— Her Family — Interview with Dr. Johnson — Murderous Riot in the Close — Removal of the Stamp Office 227

Chapter XXVII. The High Street

(continued). The Anchor Close— Dawney Douglas's Tavern— The " Crown Room "—The Crochallan Club— Members— Burns among the Crochallan Fencibles— Smellie's Printing Office — Dundas's House, Fleshmarket Close — Mylne's Square — Lord Alva's House— The Countess of Sutherland and Lady Glenorchy — Birthplace of Fergusson — Halkerston's Wynd Port — Kinloch's Close — Carrubber's Close — The Episcopal Chapel— Clam Shell Land— Captain Matthew Henderson— Allan Ramsay's Theatre— Its later Tenants— The Tailor's Hall- Bailie Fyfe's Close— " Heave awa' lads, I'm no deid yet "—Chalmers' Close— Hope's House— Sandiland's Close— Bishop Kennedy's House— Grant's Close — Baron Grant's House 235

Chapter XXVIII. The High Street

(continue!). "The Salamander Land "—The Old Fishmarket Close— Heriot's Mansion— The Deemster's House— Borthwick's Close— Lord Durie's House —Old Assembly Rooms— Edinburgh Assemblies, 1720-53— Miss Nicky Murray— Formalities of the Balls— Ladies' Fashions— Assemblies Removed to Bell's Wynd— Blair Street and Hunter's Square— Kennedy's Close— George Buchanan's Death— Niddry's Wynd— Nicoi Edwards' House — A Case of Homicide in 1597 — A Quack Doctor — Livingstone's Liberty . 242

Chapter XXIX. The High Street

(continued.) Niddry's Wynd -Provost Edward's House— Lockhart's Court— St. Mary's Chapel— Masonic Lodge Meetings— Viscountess Glenorchy— The Story of Lady Grange- St. Cecilia's Hall— Its Old-fashioned Concerts— The Belles of the Eighteenth Century— The Name Niddry . 246

Chapter XXX. The High Street

(continued). Dicksons' and Cant's Closes— The House of the " Scottish Hogarth " and the Knight of Tillybole— Rosehaugh's, or Strichen's, Close— House of the Abbots of Melrose— Sir George Mackenzie of Rosehaugh— Lady Anne Dick— Lord Strichen-The Manners of 1730-Provost Grieve— John Dhu, Corporal of the City Guard— Lady Lovat's Land— Walter Chapman, Printer— Lady Lovat . CONTENTS. VII

Chapter XXXI. Alleys Of The High Street

{continued). pAG[, Blackfriars Wynd — The Grant of Alexander II,— Bothwell slays Sir William Stewart -Escape of Archbishop Sharpe — Cameronian Meeting-house — The House of the Regent Morton — Catholic Chapels of the Eighteenth Century — Bishop J lay — "No Popury " Riots — Baron Smith's Chapel — Scottish Episcopalians— House of the Prince of Orkney— Magnificence of Earl William Sinclair — Cardinal Beaton's House — The Cardinal's Armorial Bearings— Historical Associations of his House — Its Ultimate Occupants— The United Industrial School 258

Chapter XXXII. Alleys Of The High Street

(continued). Toddrick's Wynd — Banquet to the Danish Ambassador and Nobles — Lord Lcven's House in Skinner's Close — The First Mint Houses — The Mint— Scottish Coin — Mode of its Manufacture— Argyle's Lodging— Dr. Cullen— Elphinstone's Court— Lords Loughborough and Stonefield— Lord Selkirk— Dr. Rutherford, the Inventor of Gas 26O

CHAPTER XXXI II.

ALLEYS OF THE HIGH STREET {concluded). The House of the Earls of Hyndford — The Three Romps of Monreith — Anne, Countess of Bakarris— South Foulis' Close— The " Endmylie's Well" — Fountain Close— The House of Bailie Fullerton— Purchase of Property for the Royal College of Physicians— New Episcopal Chapel— Tweeddale Close— The House of the Marquis of Tweeddale— Rise of the British Linen Company — The Mysterious Murder of Begbie— The World's End Close— The Stanfield Tragedy— Titled Residenters in Old Town Closes 274

Chapter XXXIV. New Streets Within The Area Of The Flodden Wall

Lord Cockburn Street— Lord Cockburn— The Scotsman Newspaper— Charles Maclaren and Alexander Russel— The Queen's Edinburgh Rifle Brigade— St. Giles Street— Sketch of the Rise of Journalism in Edinburgh— The Edinburgh Courant— The Daily Review — Jeffrey Street — New Trinity College Church 2S2

Chapter XXXV. New Streets Within The Area Of The Flodden Wall

{concluded). Victoria Street and Terrace— The India Buildings— Mechanics' Subscription Library— George IV. Bridge— St. Augustine's Church— Martyrs' Church— Chamber of the Highland and Agricultural Society— Sheriff Court Buildings and Solicitors' Hall— Johnstone Terrace— St. John's Free Church — The Church of Scotland Training College 291

Chapter XXXVI. St

MA R Y'S WYND. St, Mary's Wynd and Street— Sir David Annand— St. Mary's Cistercian Convent and Hospital— BothweU's Brawl in 1562— The Cowgate Port- Rag Fair— The Ladies of Traquair— Ramsay's "White Horse" Inn— Pasquale de Paoli— Ramsay Retires with a Fortune— Boyd's " White Horse " Inn— Patronised by Dr. Johnson — Improvements in the Wynd — Catholic Institute — The Oldest Doorhead in the City 2Q7

Chapter XXXVII. Leith Wynd

Leith Wynd— Our Lady's Hospital— Paul's Work— The Wall of 1540— Im Fall in 1854— The " Happy Land "—Mary of Gueldrcs-Trinity College Church— Some Particulars of its Charter— Interior View- Decorations— Enlargement of the Establishment— Privileges of its Ancient Officers— The Duchess of Lennox— Lady Jane Hamilton— Curious Remains Trinity Hospital— Sir Simon Preston's "Public Spirit "—Becomes a Corporation Charity— Description of Buildings— Provision for the Inmates— Lord Cockbum's Female Pensioner— Demolition of the Hospital— Other Charities .... 300

Chapter Xxxviii. The West Bow

The West Bow— Quaint Ciaracter of its Houses— Its Modern Aspect— Houses of the Templar Knights— The Bowsoot Wcll-Thc Bow Port— The Bow-head— Major Weir's Land— History of Major Thomas Weir— Personal Appearance— His Powerful Prayer..— The " Holy Sisters"— The Bowhead Saints— Weir's Reputed Compact with the Devil— Sick-bed Confession— Arrest- Search of his House— Prison Confession— Trial of Him and His Sister Grizel— Execution— What was Weir!— His Sister undoubtedly Mad— Terrible Reputation of the House— Untenanted for upwards of a Century— Patullo's Experience of a Cheap Lodging— Weir's Land Improved Out of Existence —Hall of the Knights of St. John— A Mysterious House— Somerville Mansion— The Assembly Rooms- -Opposed by the Bigotry of the Times— The Lady-Directress— Curious Regulations

Chapter XXXIX. The West Bow

(concluded.) pAGE A Hand to Hand Combat in the Bow-Murder in 1605 in the Bow-The House of Lord Ruthven-The Hidden Sword-Processions in the Bow— The Jacobite Prisoners— House of Provost Stewart— A Secret Entertainment to Prince Charles-Donaldson the Printer-State of Printing and Publishing in his Day— The Edinburgh Advertiser-S\y\wdii Fortune of his Descendant— Town House of the Napiers of Wrightshouse— Trial of Barbara Napier for Witchcraft— Clockmaker's Land— Paul Romieu— The Mahogany Land- Duncan Campbell, Chirurgeon — Templar Houses -* o

Chapter XL. Edinburgh In

1745. Provost Stewart— Advance of the Jacobite Clans— Preparations for Defence— Capture of the City— Lochiel's Surprise— Entrance oi Prince Charles— Arrival at Holyrood— James VIII. Proclaimed at the Cross-Conduct of the Highland Troops in the City— Colquhoun Grant— A Triumphal Procession— Guest's Council of War— Preston's Fidelity 322

Chapter XLI. Edinburgh In

1745 (concluded). General Guest's "Bravery "—Popularity of the Prince— Castle Blockaded— It Fires on the City— Leith Bombarded— End of the Blockade —Departure of the Highland Army for England— Prisoners in the Castle— Macdonald of Teindreich— Duke of Cumberland in Edinburgh — Burning of the Standards 329

CHAPTER XLI

I. THE NORTH BRIDGE. The New Town projected by James VII. — The North Bridge and other Structures by the Earl of Mar, 1728 — Opposed in 1759— Foundation Stone Laid — Erection Delayed till 1765— Henderson's Plan — William Mylne appointed Architect — Terms of the Contract — Fall of the Bridge— Repaired and Completed — The Upper and Lower Flesh-Markets— Old Post Office — Adam Black — Ann Street — The Ettrick Shepherd and the " Noctes"— The Bridge Widened 334

Chapter XLIII. East Side Of The North Bridge

Dingwall's Castle— Whitefield's " Preachings "—History of the Old Theatre Royal— The Building— David Ross's Management— Leased to Mr. Foote— Then to Mr. Digges— Mr. Moss— Mrs. Yates— Next Leased to Mr. Jackson— The Siddons Furore— Reception of the Great Actress— Mrs. Baddeley — New Patent — The Playhouse Riot— " The Scottish Roscius " — A Ghost — Expiry of the Patent . . . 340

Chapter XLIV. East Side Of The North Bridge

(continued). Old Theatre Royal — Management of Mr. Henry Siddons— Mr. Murray — Miss O'Neill— Production of Rob Roy — Visit of George IV. to the Theatre- Edinburgh Theatrical Fund— Scott and his Novels— Retirement of Mr. Murray— The Management of Mr. and Mrs. Wyndham — The Closing Night of the Theatre -74J5

Chapter XLV. East Side Of The North Bridge

(continued). Memorabilia of the General Post Office— First Postal System in Scotland— First Communication with Ireland— Sanctions given by the Scottish Parliament — Expenses of the Establishment at various Periods— The Horse Posts— Violation of Letter Bags — Casualties of the Period— The First Stage Coach— Peter Williamson— The Various Post Office Buildings— The Waterloo Place Office— Royal Arms Removed- New Office Built— Staff and Fiscal Details 353

Chapter XLVI. East Side Of The North Bridge

(concluded). The Old Orphan Hospital— Its Foundation, Object, and Removal — Lady Glenorchy's Chapel — Her Disputes with the Presbytery— Dr. Snell Jones— Demolition of the Chapel and School— Old Physic Gardens Formed— The Gardens — Cir Andrew Balfour — James Sutherland Inundated in 1689— Sutherland's Efforts to Improve the Gardens— Professor Hope CONTENTS IX h.VS OF Till". CITV OF EDINBURGH, CHAPTER XLV1I. MOULTRAY'S HILL—HER MAJESTY'S GENERAL REGISTER HOUSE. PAGE The Moultrays of that Ilk -Village of Moultray's Hill— The Chapel of St. Ninian St. James's Square Bunki r_ Hill— Mr. Dundas-Robcrt Bum.'s House— State of the Scottish Records— Indifference of the Government in 1740— The Register House built— Its Objects .m.1 Size— Curious Documents preserved in this House— The Ossicc of Lord Clerk Register I he Secretary's Register— The Register of Sasines -The Lyon King of Arms— Sir David Lindesay Sir James Balfour Sir Alexander Erskine— New Register House-Great and Privy Seals of Scotland— The Wellington Statue 3°4 CHAPTER XLV1II.

THE SOUTH BRIDGK. Marlin's Wynd— Legend of the Pavior— Peebles Wynd The Bridge Founded— Price of Sites— Laing's Hook Shop— The Assay Office and Goldsmith's Hall Mode of Marking the Plate -The Corporation, and old Acts concerning it— Hunter's Square — Merchint Company's Hall— The Company's Charter— " The Stock of Broom"— Their Monopoly and Progress-The Great Schools of the Merchant Company— The Chamber of Commerce— Adam Square— Adam's Houses— Dr. Andrew Duncan— Leonard Horner and the Watt Institution — Its Progress and Vitality JlJ CHAPTER XL1X. THE PLEASANCE AND ST. LEONARDS. The Convent of St. Mary— Friends' Butial Place— Old Chirurgeon's Hall— Surgeon's Square -" Hamilton's Folly"— The Gibbet- Chapel and Hospital of St. Leonard— Davie Deans' Cottage— The " Innocent Railway"— First Public Dispensary 3°2 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

THE OLD CHURCH OF ST. cuthbert's AND THE NORTH LOCH (after Clerk os Eidin). — Frontispiece. I'AGE PAGE Keys of the City of Edinburgh Covenanter's Flag ...... -54 IX Paul's Work South Side of Edinburgh Castle . . . . 56 Ml Edinburgh from the South, in 1650 . . . -57 Illustrated Heading I The "Maiden" Mons Meg, Edinburgh Castle 60 3 The " White Horse" Inn Order of Cavalcade at the Opening of the First Parliament of James VII. .... .61 4 Fac-simile of a View of Edinburgh in 1544 5 Common Seal of Edinburgh Thumbikin ..... . . .62 8 Counter Seal of the Above Fac-simile of the Medal of the Edinburgh Revolution Club 63 8 9 John Kay (1786) Urn sound at the Dean Edinburgh Castle, from Kirkbraehead ... 64 10 The Roman Road, near Portobello— The " Fishwives Causeway ' ' . ... Edinburgh from Mons Meg Battery .

To pace page 65 Inner Gateway of the Castle ..... 65 12 Arthur's Seat, from St. Leonards Royal Lodging and Half-Moon Battery ... 68 *3 The Arms of the City of Edinburgh The Crown-room, Edinburgh Castle .... 69 i6 Fac-simile of a View of the Old Town, from a house top at the Tron Church The Regalia of Scotland . . . . .72 Plan os the City and Castle of Edinburgh in 1742 . 73 10 Bird's-eye View of the Castle and City of Edinburgh Chest in which the Regalia were sound ... 76 17 St. Margaret's Chapel, Edinburgh Castle Edinburgh, from the King's Bastion, 1825 ... 77 20 Dungeons in the Castle, below Queen Mary's Room Runic Cross, Castle Bank 79 21 Chancel Arch of St. Margaret's Chapel " Wallace's Cradle," Edinburgh Castle Edinburgh Castle, as it was before 1573 Edinburgh Castle, from the King's Mews, 1S25 . .

So Ground Plan of Edinburgh Castle in the present day . 81 24 -5 2S Memorial Cross to the 78th Highlanders, Esplanade, Edinburgh Castle ...... 84 Ruins of the Well-house Tower 29 The Royal Lodging or Palace, from the Grand Parade Prospect of Edinburgh, from the North, 1693 (after Prospect of Edinburgh Castle from the E isi in 1779 . 85 32 The Castle Hill, 1S45 SS Allan Ramsay's House ...... 89 Slezer) To face page 33 Edinburgh Castle in 1647 Cannon Ball in Wall os House in Castle Hill . . 90 33 The Blue Blanket, or Standard of the Incorporated Trades of Edinburgh ...... Thomas Guthrie, D.D. . . . . .92 Duke of Gordon's House, Blair's Close, Castle Hill . 93 36 James Hamilton, Earl of Arran ; John Erskine, Earl of Mar; Archibald, Earl of Angus ; The Regent Moray Assembly Hall 96 Edinburgh Old Town, from Salisbury Crags To face page 97 37 Plan of Edinburgh, showing the Flodden Wall The Oratory of Mary of Guise ..... 97 40 Edinburgh, from the North and South Oak Door, from the Guise Pa. ace .... 98 4' John Duke of Albany, and Queen Margaret Lord Semple's House, Castle Hill .... 100 44 Edinburgh Castle, from the South-west Mary of Guise 101 45 Stone which formerly stood over the Barrier-gateway of Edinburgh Castle ......

The Lawnmarket, from the Site of the Weigh-house, 1825 104 46 The Lawnmarket, from St. Giles's, 1825 . . 105 Cipher of Lord Darnley and Queen Mary 46 Lady Stair's Close ....... 107 Room in Edinburgh Castle in which James VI. was born 48 Old Timber-fronted House, Lawnmarket . . . 10S Ancient Postern and Turret near the Queen's Post Entablature above the Gateway, Edinburgh Castle Gladstone's Land ....... 109 49 5' Plan of Edinburgh, from the Castle to St. Giles's 112 The Regent Morton Bailie Macmorran's House . . . . . .113 s- Reduced Fac-simile of a Plan of the Siege of Edinburgh Castle in 1573 Room in Bailie Macmorran's House . . . .114 Lantern and Keys of Deacon Brodie . . 1 1 5 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XI PAGE I'M. I Deacon Brodie 116 Tally-stick, bearing date of 1692 .... 186 The First Interview in 1786: Deacon Brodie and George Smith 117 General Plan of the Royal Exchange . . . 188 The Royal Exchange ...... 189 Sir George Lockhart of Carnw.ith . . . . 1 18 New Year's Eve at the Tron Church .

To face sage 191 Robert Gourlay's House ] 20 Andrew Crosby . . . . . . . 192 John Dowie's Tavern . 12 1 The Old Tron Church 193 John Dowie . . . . . . . .124 Plan of Edinburgh, fromSt. Giles's to Hackerston's Wynd 197 Edinburgh, from St. Cuthbert's to St. Giles's . .125 The Nether Bow Port, bom the Canongate . . 201 Interior of the Signet Library . . . . .128 Edinburgh, from St. 1 liles's Church to the Canongate . 205 The Heart of Midlothian . . . Tofacepagt 129 Allan Ramsay 208 Relics from the Tolbooth, now in the Scottish Antiquarian Museum . . . . . . .129 Allan Ramsay's Shop, High Street .... 209 Knox's Study . .212 Lord Monboddo 132 John Knox's House ....

To face page 213 The Tolbooth 133 Portrait and Autograph of John Knox . . . 213 The Guard-house and Black Turnpike . . .136 Knox's Bed-room . 216 The City Guard-house 137 Knox's Sitting-room . . . . . . 217 Three Captains of the City Guard .... 137 The Excise Office at the Nether Bow ... 220 Lochaber Axes of the City Guard .... 138 The Nether Bow Port, from the High Street . .221 Seal of St. Giles 140 House of Lord Advocate Stewart, at the foot of Advocates' Close, west side ..... 223 The Norman doorway, St. Giles's, which was destroyed towards the end of the eighteenth century . . 141 William Chambers ....... 224 John Knox's Pulpit, St. Giles's ..... 143 Robert Chambers ....... 224 The Lantern and Tower of St. I iiles's Church . . \\\ Advocates' Close . 225 Pianos St. Giles's Church, prior to the alterations in 1S29 145 Stamp Office Close 229 Jenny Geddes' Stool 146 Fleshmarket Close ....... 232 Carved Centre Groin Stone or Boss .... 147 Susanna, Countess of Eglinton ..... 233 Interior of the High Church, St. Giles's . . . 148 Lintels of Doorways in Dawney Douglas's Tavern . 236 St. Giles's Church in the present day .... 149 Mylne's Square ........ 237 Grave of John Knox ....... 150 St. Paul's Chapel, Carrubber's Close .... 240 The City Cross 152 House in High Street with memorial window, " Heave awa, lads, I'm no deid yet !" . . . 241 Creech's Land 153 William Creech ........ 156 Ruins in the Old Assembly Close, after the Great lire, November, 1S24 244 The Old Parliament House ...... 160 Great Hall, Parliament Ilou^e . .