Cassell's Old and New Edinburgh, etc

Chapter I. Prehistoric Edinburgh

The Site before the Houses— Traces of Early Inhabitants — The Caledonian Tribes— Agricola's Invasion— Subjection of the Scottish Lowlands —The Roman Way — Edinburgh never occupied permanently— Various Roman Remains: Urns, Coins, Busts; Swords, Spears, and other Weapons— Ancient Coffins— The Camus, or Cath-stone— Origin of the name " Edinburgh "— Dinas-Eiddyn— The Battle of Catraeth 9

Chapter II. The Castle Of Edinburgh

Of its Origin and remoter History— The Legends concerning it— Ebranke— St. Monena — Defeat of the Saxons by King Bridei— King Edwin— King Grime — The Story of Grime and Bertha of Badlieu — The Starting point of authentic Edinburgh History — St. Margaret — Her Piety and amiable Disposition— Her Chapel— Her Death— Restoration of her Oratory— Her Burial— Donald Eane— King David I. — The Royal Gardens, afterwards the North Loch 14

Chapter III. Castle Of Edinburgh

(continued). The Legend of the White Hart— Holyrood Abbey founded — The Monks of the Castrum Puellarum — David I.'s numerous Endowments— His Death — Fergus, Lord of Galloway, dies there — William the Lion — Castle Garrisoned by the English for Twelve Years— The Castle a Royal Residence — The War of the Scottish Succession — The Castle in the hands of Edward I. — Frank's Escalade — The Fortress Dismantled — Again in the hands of the English — Bullock's Stratagem for its Re-capture — David's Tower 21

Chapter IV. Castle Of Edinburgh

(continued). Progress of the City — Ambassador of Charles VI.— Edinburgh bumed— Henry IV. baffled— Albany's Prophecy — Laws regarding the Building of Houses — Sumptuary Laws, 1457 — Murder of James I. — Coronation of James II. — Court Intrigues — Lord Chancellor Crichton — Arrogance of the Earl of Douglas -Faction Wars— The Castle Besieged—" The Black Dinner "—Edinburgh Walled— Its Strength —Bale-fires . 26

Chapter V. Edinburgh Castle

(continued). James III. and his haughty Nobility — Plots of the Duke of Albany and Eail of Mar— Mysterious Death of Mar — Capture and Escape of the Duke of Albany— Captivity of James III. — Richard of Gloucester at Edinburgh — The "Golden Charter " of the City — "The Blue Blanket "—Accession of James IV. — Tournaments — " The Seven Sisters of Bothwick " — The " Flodden Wall " — The Reign of James V. — "Cleanse the Causeway ! "—Edinburgh under the Factions of Nobles — Hertford Attacks the Castle — Death of Mary of Guise — Queen Mary's Apartments in the Castle— Birth of James VI. 32

Chapter VI. Edinburgh Castle

(continued). The Siege of 1573— Tr,e city Bombarded from the Castle— Elizabeth's Spy— Drury's Dispositions for the Siege— Execution of Kirkaldy— Repair of the Ruins— Execution of Morton— Visit of Charles I.— Procession to Holyrood— Coronation of Charles I.— The Struggle against Episcopacy— Siege of 1640— The Spectre Drummer— Besieged by Cromwell— Under the Protector— The Restoration— The Argyles— The Accession of James VII.— Sentence of the Earl of Argile— His clever Escape— Imprisoned (our yea-s later— The Last Sleep of Argyle— His Death— Torture of Covenaiters— Proclamation of William and Mary— The Siege of 1689— Interview between Gordon and Dundee -The CasTe invested— Brilliant Defence— Capitulation of the Duke of Gordon— The Spectre of Claverhouse . OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.

Chapter VII. Edinburgh Castle

(concluded). pAGE The Torture os Neville Payne— Jacobite Plots— Entombing the Regalia— Project for Surprising the Fortress— Right of Sanctuary Abolished —Lord Drummond's Plot— Some Jacobite Prisoners—" Rebel Ladies "—James Macgregor— The Castle Vaults— Attempts at Escape- Fears as to the Destruction of the Crown, Sword, and Sceptre — Crown-room opened in 1794 — Again in 1817, and the Regalia brought forth — Mons Meg— General Description of the whole Castle "O

Chapter VIII. The Castle Hill

The Esplanade or Castle Hill — The Castle Banks— The Celtic Crosses— The Secret Passage and Well house Tower — The Church on the Castle Hill — The Reservoir — The House of Allan Ramsay— Executions for Treason, Sorcery, &c. — The Master of Forbes — Lady Jane Douglas— Castle Hill Promenade — Question as to the Proprietary of the Esplanade and Castle Hill 79

Chapter IX. The Castle Hill

{concluded). Dr. Guthrie's Original Ragged School — Old Houses in the Street of the Castle Hill — Duke of Gordon's House, Blair's Close— Webster's Close — Dr. Alex. Webster — Boswell s Court — Hyndford House — Assembly Hall — Houses of the Marquis of Argyle, Sir Andrew Kennedy, the Earl of Cassillis, the Laird of Cockpen — Lord Semple's House — Lord Semple — Palace of Mary of Guise — Its Fate 87

Chapter X. The Lawnmarket

The Lawnmarket — Risps — The Weigh-house — Major Somerville and Captain Crawford — Anderson's Pills — Mylne's Court — James's Court — Sir John Lauder — Sir Islay Campbell — David Hume — " Corsica" Boswell — Dr. Johnson — Dr. Blair — " Gladstone's Land " — A Fire in 1771 94

Chapter XI. The Lawnmarket

(continued). Lady Stair's Close— Gray of Pittendrum— " Aunt Margaret's Mirror "—The Marshal Earl and Countess of Stair— Miss Ferrier— Sir Richard Steele— Martha Countess of Kincardine— Burns's Room in Baxter's Close— The Bridges' Shop in Bank Street— Bailie MacMorran's Story — Sir Francis Grant of Cullen 102

Chapter XII. The Lawnmarket

(continued-). The Story of Deacon Brodie— His Career of Guilt— Hanged on his own Gibbet— Mauchine's Close, Robert Gourlay's House and the other Old Houses therein— The Bank of Scotland, 1695— Assassination of Sir George Lockhart— Taken Red Hand— Punishment of Chiesly 112

Chapter XIII. The Lawnmarket

(concluded). Gosfords Close -The Town House of the Abbot of Cambuskenneth-Tennant's House-Mansion of the Hays-Liberton's Wynd— Johnnie - Dowie's Tavern-Burns and His Songs-The Place of Execution— Birthplace of "The Man of Feeling"— The Mirror Club- Forrester's Wynd— The Heather Stacks in the Houses-Peter Williamson— Beith's Wynd— Habits of the Lawnmarket Woollen Traders— "La3vnmarket Gazettes "-Melbourne Place-The County Hall— The Signet and Advocates' Libraries 11S

Chapter XIV. The Tolbooth

Memorials of the Heart of Midlothian, or Old Tolbooth— Sir Walter Scott's Description— The Early Tolbooth- The " Robin Hood " Disturbances— Noted Prisoners— Entries from the Records— Lord Burleigh's Attempts at Escape— The Porteous Mob— The Stories of Katherine Nairnc and of James Hay— The Town Guard— The Royal Bedesmen 1 23 v CONTENTS. V

Chapter XV. The Church Of St

GILES. pAGE St. Giles's Church— The Patron Saint— Its Origin and early Norman style— The Renovation of 1829 — History of the Structure— Procession of the Saint's Relics— The Preston Relic— The Chapel of the Duke of Albany— Funeral of the Regent Morray — The "Gude Regent's Aisle" — The Assembly Aisle— Dispute between James VI. and the Church Party — Departure of James VI. — Haddo's Hole — The Napier Tomb— The Spire and Lantern— Clock and Bells— The Krames — Restoration of 1878 1 y>

Chapter XVI. The Neighbourhood Of St

GILES'S. St. Giles's Churchyard— The Maison Dieu— The Clam-shell Turnpike— The Grave of Knox— The City Cross— The Summons of Pluto- Executions : Kirkaldy, Gilderoy, and others— The Caddies— The Dyvours Stane— The Luckenbooths — The Auld Kirk Style— Byre's Lodging — Lord Coalstoun's Wig — Allan Ramsay's Library and " Creech's Land" — The Edinburgh Halfpenny I4S

CHAPTER XVIL THE PARLIAMENT HOUSE.

Site of the Parliament House — The Parliament Hall— Its fine Roof— Proportions — Its External Aspect of Old — Pictures and Statues — The Great South Window — The Side Windows — Scots Prisoners of War — General Monk Feasted — A Scene with Gen. Dalyell — The Fire of 1700 — Riding of the Parliament — The Union — Its dire Effects and ultimate good Results — Trial of Covenanters 157

Chapter XVIII. The Parliament House

{continued). The Faculty of Advocates— The Writers to the Signet — Solicitors before the Supreme Court— The First Lords of Session — The Law Courts— The Court of Session: the Outer and Inner Houses — College of Justice — Supreme Judicature Court — Its Corrupt Nature — How Justice used to be defeated — Abduction of Lord Durie — Some Notable Senators of the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries : Lords Fountainhall, Covington, Monboddo, Kames, Hailes, Gardenstone, Arniston, Balmuto, and Hermand 1 06

Chapter XIX. The Parliament Close

Probable Extinction of the Court of Session — Memorabilia of the Parliament Close and Square— Goldsmiths of the Olden Time — George Heriot — His Workshop — His Interview with James VI. — Peter Williamson's Tavern — Royal Exchange — Statue of Charles II. — Bank of Scotlana — The Fire of 1700 — The Work of Restoration— John Row's Coffee-house — John's Coffee-house — Sylvester Otway — Sir W. Forbes's Bank — Sir Walter Scott's Eulogy on Sir William Forbes — John Kay's Print-shop— The Parliament Stairs — James Sibbald — A Libel Case — Fire in June. 1824— Dr. Archibald Pitcairn— The " Greping Office "—Painting of King Charles's Statue White -Seal of Arnauld Lammius 174

Chapter XX. The Royal

EXCHANGE— THE TRON CHURCH— THE GREAT FIRE OF NOVEMBER, 1824. The Royal Exchange — Laying the Foundation Stone— Description of the Exchange— The Mysterious Statue — The Council Chamber — Convention of Royal Burghs: Constitution thereof, and Powers— Writers' Court — The " Star and Garter" Tavern— Sir Walter Scott's Account of the Scene at Cleriheugh's— Lawyers' High Jinks— The Tron Church— History of the Old Church— The Great Fire of 1824 — Incidents of the Conflagration — The Ruins Undermined — Blown up by Captain Head of the Engineers . . . . I §3

Chapter XXI. The High Street

A Place for Brawling— First Paved and Lighted— The Meal and Flesh Markets— State of the Streets— Municipal Regulations j 6th Century— Tulzies— The Lairds of Airth and Wemyss— The Tweedies of Drummelzier— A Montrose Quarrel— The Slaughter of Lord Torthorwald — A Brawl in 1705 — Attacking a Sedan Chair — Habits in the Seventeenth Century — Abduction of Women and Girls — Sumptuary Laws against Women 191

Chapter XXII. The High Street

[continued). The City in 1598— Fynes Morison on the Manners of the Inhabitants— The "Lord" Provost of Edinburgh— Police of the City— Taylor the Water Poet— Banquets at the Cross— The hard Case of the Earl of Traquair — A Visit of Hares — The Quack and his Acrobats— A Procession of Covenanters— Early Stages and Street Coaches— Sale of a Dancing-girl— Constables appointed in 1703 — First Number of the Courant — The Caledonian Mercury— Carting away of the strata of Street Filth— Condition of old Houses 19$ VI OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH.

Chapter XXIII. The High Street

(continued). PAGE The Black Turnpike— Bitter Reception of Queen Mary— Lambie's Banner— Mary in the Black Turnpike— The House of Fentonbarns— Its Picturesque Appearance— The House of Bassandyne the Printer, 1574—" Bishop's Land," Town House of Archbishop Spottiswood— Its various Tenants— Sir Stuart Thriepland— The Town-house of the Hendersons of Fordel— The Lodging of the Earls of Crawford— The First Shop of Allan Ramsay— The Religious Feeling of the People— Ancrum House— The First Shop of Constable and Co.— Manners and Millar, Booksellers 2°4

Chapter XXIV. The High Street

(continued). The Neighbourhood of Knox's House— Balmerino Mansion— Singular Accident— The Knox Memorial Church— Society Close— John Knox's House— The "Preaching Window" — His Wives— Attempted Assassination— Last Sermon — Death and Burial — James of Jerusalem— House of Archbishop Sharp— The Birthplace of William Falconer — Old Excise Offices — The Nether Bow Port — The Earlier Gate— The Regent Morton's Surprise Party— The Last Gate— Its Demolition 212

Chapter XXV. The High Street

(continued). The Ancient Markets— The House of Adam Bothwell, Bishop of Orkney— The Bishop and Queen Mary— His Sister Anne— Sir William Dick of Braid — His Colossal Wealth— Hard Fortune— The " Lamentable State "—Advocates' Close— Sir James Stewart's House— Andrew Crosbie, "Counsellor Pleydell "— Scougal's House— His Picture Gallery— Roxburghe Close— Warriston's Close— Lord Philiphaugh's House — Bruce of Binning's Mansion— Messrs. W. and R. Chambers's Printing and Publishing Establishment — History of the Firm — House of Sir Thomas Craig — Sir Archibald Johnston of Wariston 219

Chapter XXVI. The High Street

{continued). Mary King's Close— Who was Mary? — Scourged by the Plague of 1645— Its Mystery — Drummond's Epigram— Prof. Sinclair's "Satan's Invisible World Discovered " — Mr. and Mrs. Coltheart's Ghostly Visitors — The Close finally abandoned to Goblins— Craig's Close — Andro Hart, Bookseller and Printer— Andro Hart's Spear — A Menagerie in Craig's Close — The Isle of Man Arms — The Cape Club — Its Mysteries and Officers — Installation of a Knight — Provincial Cape Clubs — The Poker Club — How it Originated — Members — Office-bearers — Old Stamp Office Court — Fortune's Tavern— The beautiful Countess of Eglinton — Her Patronage of Letters — Her Family — Interview with Dr. Johnson — Murderous Riot in the Close — Removal of the Stamp Office 227

Chapter XXVII. The High Street

{continued). The Anchor Close— Dawney Douglas's Tavern— The " Crown Room"— The Crochallan Club — Members — Burns among the Crochallan Fencibles— Smellie's Printing Office — Dundas's House, Fleshmarket Close— Mylne's Square — Lord Alva's House— The Countess of Sutherland and Lady Glenorchy — Birthplace of Fergusson — Halkerston's Wynd Port— Kinloch's Close — Carrubber's Close — The Episcopal Chapel — Clam Shell Land— Captain Matthew Henderson— Allan Ramsay's Theatre — Its later Tenants — The Tailor's Hall — Bailie Fyfe's Close— " Heave awa' lads, I'm no deid yet" — Chalmers' Close — Hope's House— Sandiland's Close — Bishop Kennedy's House-Grant's Close — Baron Grant's House 235

Chapter XXVIII. The High Street

(continued). " The Salamander Land " — The Old Fishmarket Close — Heriot's Mansion — The Deemster's House — Borthwick's Close — Lord Durie's House — Old Assembly Rooms — Edinburgh Assemblies, 1720-53 — Miss Nicky Murray — Formalities of the Balls — Ladies' Fashions — Assemblies Removed to Bell's Wynd— Blair Street and Hunter's Square — Kennedy's Close— George Buchanan's Death— Nidd-y's Wynd — Nicol Edwards' House — A Case of Homicide in 1597 — A Quack Doctor— Livingstone's Liberty 242

Chapter XXIX. The High Street

(continued.) Niddry'* Wynd -Provost Edward's House — Lockhart's Court— St. Mary's Chapel — Masonic Lodge Meetings — Viscountess Glenorchy — The Story of Lady Grange— St. Cecilia's Hall— Its Old-fashioned Concerts — The Belles of the Eighteenth Century — The Name Niddry . 246

Chapter XXX. The High Street

(continued). Dicksons' and Cant's Closes— The House of the " Scottish Hogarth " and the Knight of Tillybole— Rosehaugh's, or Strichen's, Close— House of the Abbots of Melrose— Sir George Mackenzie of Rosehaugh— Lady Anne Dick — Lord Strichen— The Manners of j-j^o— Provost Grieve — John Dhu, Corporal of the City Guard — Lady Lovat's Land — Walter Chapman, Printer — Lady Lovat ..... 2^ CONTENTS. VII

Chapter XXXI. Alleys Of The High Street

(continued). pAQE Blackfriars Wynd— The Grant of Alexander II.— Bothwell slays Sir William Stewart— Escape of Archbishop Sharpe— Cameronian Meeting-house — The House of the Regent Morton — Catholic Chapels of the Eighteenth Century— Bishop Hay — "No Popery" Riots — Baron Smith's Chapel— Scottish Episcopalians — House of the Prince of Orkney- Magnificence of Earl William Sinclair— Cardinal Beaton's House— The Cardinal's Armorial Bearings — Historical Associations of his House — Its Ultimate Occupants— The United Industrial School 25S

Chapter XXXII. Alleys Of The High Street

(continued). Toddrick's Wynd— Banquet to the Danish Ambassador and Nobles— Lord Leven's House in Skinner's Close— The First Mint Houses— The Mint— Scottish Coin— Mode of its Manufacture — Argyle's Lodging— Dr. Cullen — Elphinstone's Court— Lords Loughborough and Stonefield — Lord Selkirk — Dr. Rutherford, the Inventor of Gas 266

Chapter XXXIII. Alleys Of The High Street

(concluded). The House of the Earls of Hyndford — The Three Romps of Monreith — Anne, Countess of Balcarris — South Foulis' Close— The "Endmylie's Well" — Fountain Close — The House of Bailie Fullerton — Purchase of Property for the Royal College of Physicians — New Episcopal Chapel— Tweeddale Close — The House of the Marquis of Tweeddale — Rise of the British Linen Company — The Mysterious Murder of Begbie— The World's End Close— The Stanfield Tragedy— Titled Residenter* in Old Town Closes ...'... 274

Chapter XXXIV. New Streets Within The Area Of The Flodden Wall

Lord Cockburn Street— Lord Cockburn — The Scotsman Newspaper— Charles Maclaren and Alexander Russel— The Queen's Edinburgh Rifle Brigade— St. Giles Street — Sketch of the Rise of Journalism in Edinburgh— The Edinburgh Courant — The Daily Review — Jeffrey Street — New Trinity College Church 282

Chapter XXXV. New Streets Within The Area Of The Flodden Wall

(concluded). Victoria Street and Terrace — The India Buildings — Mechanics' Subscription Library — George IV. Bridge — St. Augustine's Church— Martyrs' Church— Chamber of the Highland and Agricultural Society- Sheriff Court Buildings and Solicitors' Hall — Johnstone Terrace — St. John's Free Church — The Church of Scotland Training College 291

Chapter XXXVI. St

MAR Y'S WYND. St. Mary's Wynd and Street — Sir David Annand— St. Mary's Cistercian Convent and Hospital — Bothwell's Brawl in 1562— The Cowgate Port Rag Fair — The Ladies of Traquair— Ramsay's " White Horse " Inn — Pasquale de Paoli — Ramsay Retires with a Fortune — Boyd's "White Horse" Inn— Patronised by Dr. Johnson — Improvements in the Wynd— Catholic Institute — The Oldest Doorhead in the City 2Q7

Chapter XXXVII. Leith Wynd

Leith Wynd-Our Lady's Hospital-Paul's Work-The Wall of r54o-Its Fall in 1854-The " Happy Land "-Mary of Gueldres-Trinity College Church— Some Particulars of its Charter— Interior View- Decorations— Enlargement of the Establishment— Privileges of its Ancient Officers— The Duchess of Lennox— Lady Jane Hamilton- Curious Remains -Trinity Hospital— Sir Simon Preston's "Public Spirit"— Becomes a Corporation Charity- -Description of Buildings— Provision for the Inmates— Lord Cockburn's Female Pensioner — Demolition of the Hospital — Other Charities -IOO

Chapter Xxxviii. The West Bow

The West Bow-Quaint Ciaracter of its Houses-Its Modern Aspect-Houses of the Templar Knighls-The Bowfoot Well-The Bow Port-The Bow-head-Major Weir s Land-History of Major Thomas Weir-Personal Appearance-His Powerful Prayera-The " Holy Sisters "-The Bowhead Sa.nts-Weirs Reputed Compact with the Devil-Sick-bed Confession-Arrest-Search of his House-Prison Confession-Trial of Him and His Sis_ter Grizel-Execution-What was Weir ?-His Sister undoubtedly Mad-Terrible Reputation of the House-Untenanted for upwards of a Cen.ury-Patullo's Experience of a Cheap Lodging-Weir's Land Improved Out of Existence -Hall of the Knights of St. John-A Mysterious House-Somerville Mansion-The Assembly Rooms-Opposed by the Bigotry of the Times— The Lady-Directress— Curious Regulations FF y ""* E1S°,ry 01 j°y OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. VIII

Chapter XXXIX. The West Bow

(conclud.d.) pAGE A Hand to Hand Combat in the Bow— Murder in 1605 in the Bow— The House of Lord Ruthven— The Hidden Sword— Processions in the Bow— The Jacobite Prisoners— House of Provost Stewart— A Secret Entertainment to Prince Charles— Donaldson the Printer— State of Printing and Publishing in his Day— The Edinburgh Advertiser— Splendid Fortune of his Descendant— Town House of the Napiers of Wrightshouse— Trial of Barbara Napier for Witchcraft— Clockmaker's Land— Paul Romieu— The Mahogany Land- Duncan Campbell, Chirurgeon — Templar Houses 3*5

Chapter XL. Edinburgh In

1745. Provost Stewart— Advance of the Jacobite Clans— Preparations for Defence— Capture of the City— Lochiel's Surprise— Entrance of Prince Charles— Arrival at Holyrood— James VIII. Proclaimed at the Cross— Conduct of the Highland Troops in the City— Colquhoun Grant— A Triumphal Procession — Guest's Council of War— Preston's Fidelity 322

Chapter XLI. Edinburgh In

1745 (concluded). General Guest's " Bravery "—Popularity of the Prince— Castle Blockaded— It Fires on the City— Leith Bombarded— End of the Blockade —Departure of the Highland Army for England— Prisoners in the Castle— Macdonald of Teindreich— Duke of Cumberland in Edinburgh— Burning of the Standards 329

Chapter XLII. The North Bridge

The New Town projected by James VII. — The North Bridge and other Structures by the Earl of Mar, t728— Opposed in 1759— Foundation Stone Laid— Erection Delayed till 1765— Henderson's Plan — William Mylne appointed Architect — Terms of the Contract — Fall of the Bridge— Repaired and Completed — The Upper and Lower Flesh-Markets— Old Post Office — Adam Black — Ann Street — The Ettrick Shepherd and the " Noctes"— The Bridge Widened 334

Chapter XLIII. East Side Of The North Bridge

Dingwall's Castle — Whitefield's " Preachings " — History of the Old Theatre Royal — The Building — David Ross's Management — Leased to Mr. Foote — Then to Mr. Digges— Mr. Moss — Mrs. Yates — Next Leased to Mr. Jackson — The Siddons Furore — Reception of the Great Actress— Mrs. Baddeley — New Patent — The Playhouse Riot— " The Scottish Roscius " — A Ghost— Expiry of the Patent . . . 34O

Chapter XLIV. East Side Of The North Bridge

(continued). Old Theatre Royal — Management of Mr. Henry Siddons— Mr. Murray— Miss O'Neill — Production of Rob Roy — Visit of George IV. to the Theatre- Einburgh Theatrical Fund— Scott and his Novels— Retirement of Mr. Murray — The Management of Mr. and Mrs. Wyndham— The Closing Night of the Theatre 348

Chapter XLV. East Side Of The North Bridge

(continued). Memorabilia of the General Post Office — First Postal Svstem in Scotland — First Communication with Ireland — Sanctions given by the Scottish Parliament— Expenses of the Establishment at various Periods— The Horse Posts— Violation of Letter Bags— Casualties of the Period— The First Staee Coach— Peter Williamson— The Various Post Office Buildings— The Waterloo Place Office— Royal Arms Removed- New Office Built— Staff and Fiscal Details ... 353

Chapter XLVI. East Side Of The North Bridge

(concluded). The Old Orphan Hospital— Its Foundation, Object, and Removal— Lady Glenorchy's Chapel— Her Disputes with the Presbytery— Dr. Snell Jones— Demolition of the Chapel and School— Old Physic Gardens Formed— The Gardens— L'ir Andrew Balfour— James Sutherland- Inundated in 1689— Sutherland's Efforts to Improve the Gardens— Professor Hope CONTENTS CHAPTER XLVI1. MOULTRAY'S H1LL-HER MAJESTY'S GENERAL REGISTER HOUSE. rAGE 1He M°u"«ys of that Hk tillage of Moul.ray', Hill-The Chapel of St. Ninian-St. James's Square-Bunker's H.ll-Mr. Dundas-Rober Bun, -s HoUse_State rfhee°Lot necords-Indiffer,nce of the Government in .740-Tbc Regrster House bui.t-ItsObjec sand ilsCesU-:r Do-™=n,s preserved in this House-The Office of Lord Clerk Register-The Secretary s Registershe Reg.. ter of Sas,„es. lhe Lyon ofPArms_sir DavidLindesay-Sir James Balfour-Sir Alexander Erskine-New Reg.ster House-Great and Pnvy Seals of Scotlnnd-The Wellington Statue °4

Chapter XLVIII

T H B R I D GI THE SOU Martin's Wynd-Legend of the Pavior- Peebles Wynd-The Bridge Founded-Price of Sites-Laing's Book Shop-The Assay Office and Goldsmith's Hall-Mode of Marking the Plate-The Corporation, and old Acts concerning it-Hunter's Square-Merchant Company s Hall-The Company's Charter-" The Stock of Broom "-Their Monopoly and Progress-The Great Schools of the Merchant Company -The Chamber of Commerce-Adam Square-Adam's Houses-Dr. Andrew Duncan-Leonard Horner and the Watt Institution— Its Progress and Vitality 373

Chapter XLIX. The Pleasance And St

LEONARDS. The Convent of St. Man"— Friends' Burial Place— Old Chirurgeon's Hall-Surgeon's Square— " Hamilton's Folly "—The Gibbet- Chapel and Hospital of St. Leonard— Davie Deaii^' Cottage— The "Innocent Railway"— Fir.t Public DUpensary 3 - KEYS OF THE CITY OF EDINBURGH. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. THE OLD CHUP.CH OF ST. cuthbert's AND THE NORTH LOCH (after Clerk of Eldin). — Frontispiece.

PAGE Keys of the City of Edinburgh ix Paul's Work xii Illustrated Heading I The " Maiden " 3 The " White Horse " Inn 4 Fac-simile of a View of Edinburgh in 1544 . . 5 Common Seal of Edinburgh 8 Counter Seal of the Above 8 John Kay (1786) -9 Urn found at the Dean 10 The Roman Road, near Portobello— The " Fishwives' Causeway" ....... 12 Arthur's Seat, from St. Leonards .... 13 The Arms of the City of Edinburgh . . . . 16 Fac-simile of a View of the Old Town, from a housetop at the Tron Church 16 Bird's-eye View of the Castle and City of Edinburgh 17 St. Margaret's Chapel, Edinburgh Castle ... 20 Dungeons in the Castle, below Queen Mary's Room . 21 Chancel Arch of St. Margaret's Chapel . . .24 " Wallace's Cradle," Edinburgh Castle ... 25 Edinburgh Castle, as it was before 1573 ... 28 Ruins of the Well-house Tower . . . 29 The Royal Lodging or Palace, from the Grand Parade 32 Prospect of Edinburgh, from the North, 1693 {after Slezer) Tofacepage 33 Edinburgh Castle in 1647 33 The Blue Blanket, or Standard of the Incorporated Trades of Edinburgh ...... 36 James Hamilton, Earl of Arran; John Erskine, Earl of Mar ; Archibald, Earl of Angus ; The Regent Moray 37 Plan of Edinburgh, showing the Flodden Wall . . 40 Edinburgh, from the North and South ... 41 John Duke of Albany, and Queen Margaret . . 44 Edinburgh Castle, from the South-west ... 45 Stone which formerly stood over the Barrier-gateway of Edinburgh Castle . . . . . .46 Cipher of Lord Darnley and Queen Mary ... 46 Room in Edinburgh Castle in which James VI. was born 48 Ancient Postern and Turret near the Queen's Post . 49 Entablature above the Gateway, Edinburgh Castle . 51 The Regent Morton . .... . . 52 Reduced Fac-simile of a Plan of the Siege of Edinburgh Castle in 1573 53 | PAGE Covenanter's Flag ....... 54 South Side of Edinburgh Castle . . . . 56 Edinburgh from the South, in 1650 . . • • 57 Mons Meg, Edinburgh Castle 60 Order of Cavalcade at the Opening of the First Parliament of James VII. .... .61 Thumbikin ........ 62 Fac-simile of the Medal of the Edinburgh Revolution Club 63 Edinburgh Castle, from Kirkbraehead ... 64 Edinburgh from Mons Meg Battery .

To face page 65 Inner Gateway of the Castle ..... 65 Royal Lodging and Half-Moon Battery ... 68 The Crown-room, Edinburgh Castle .... 69 The Regalia of Scotland ...... 72 Plan of the City and Castle of Edinburgh in 1742 . 73 Chest in which the Regalia were found ... 76 Edinburgh, from the King's Bastion, 1825 ... 77 Runic Cross, Castle Bank ...... 79 Edinburgh Castle, fiom the King's Mews, 1S25 . . So Ground Plan of Edinburgh Castle in the present day . 81 Memorial Cross to the 78th Highlanders, Esplanade, Edinburgh Castle S4 Prospect of Edinburgh Castle from the E 1st in 1779 . S5 The Castle Hill, 1S45 8S Allan Ramsay's House ..... . S9 Cannon Ball in Wall of House in Castle Hill . 90 Thomas Guthrie, D.D. . . . . . -92 Duke of Gordon's House, Blair's Close, Castle Hill . 93 Assembly Hall 96 Edinburgh Old Town, from Salisbury Crags To face page 97 The Oratory of Mary of Guise 97 Oak Door, from the Guise P.i.ace .... 98 Lord Semple's House, Castle Hill .... 100 Mary of Guise 101 The Lawnmarket,from the Siteofthe Weigh-house, 1825 104 The Lawnmarket, from St. Giles's, 1825 . . .105 Lady Stair's Close 107 Old Timber-fronted House, Lawnmarket . . . 108 Gladstone's Land ....... 109 Plan of Edinburgh, from the Castle to St. Giles's . 112 Bailie Macmorran's House 113 Room in Bailie Macmorran's House . . . .114 Lantern and Keys of Deacon Brodie .

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XI PAGE PAGE Deacon Brodie 116 Tally-stick, bearing date of 1692 . . . .186 The First Interview in 1786 : Deacon Brodie and George Smith 117 General Plan of the Royal Exchange . . . 188 The Royal Exchange . . • • • .189 Sir George Lockhart of Carnwath . . . . 11S New Year's Eve at the Tron Church . To face page 191 Robert Gourlay's House 120 Andrew Crosby 192 John Dowie's Tavern 121 The Old Tron Church 193 John Dowie . .124 PlanofEdinburgh, from St. Giles's to Hackerston's Wynd 197 Edinburgh, from St. Cuthbert's to St. Giles's . .125 The Nether Bow Port, from the Canongate . . 201 Interior of the Signet Library 12S Edinburgh, from St. Giles's Church to the Canongate . 205 The Heart of Midlothian . . . To face page 129 Allan Ramsay 208 Relics from the Tolbooth, now in the Scottish Antiquarian Museum 129 Allan Ramsay's Shop, High Street .... 209 Knox's Study 212 Lord Monboddo . . . . . .132 John Knox's House ....

To face page 213 The Tolbooth 133 Portrait and Autograph of John Knox . . . 213 The Guard-house and Black Turnpike . . .136 Knox's Bed-room 216 The City Guard-house ...... 137 Knox's Sitting-room . . . . . . .217 Three Captains of the City Guard .... 137 The Excise Office at the Nether Bow .... 220 Lochaber Axes of the City Guard . . . .138 The Nether Bow Port, from the High Street . .221 Seal of St. Giles 140 House of Lord Advocate Stewart, at the foot of Advocates' Close, west side ..... 223 The Norman doorway, St. Giles's, which was destroyed towards the end of the eighteenth century . . 141 William Chambers ....... 224 John Knox's Pulpit, St. Giles's 143 Robert Chambers ....... 224 The Lantern and Tower of St. Giles's Church . . 144 Advocates' Close ........ 225 Pianos St. Giles's Church, prior to the alterations in 1S29 145 Stamp Office Close 229 Jenny Geddes' Stool 146 Fleshmarket Close ....... 232 Carved Centre Groin Stone or Boss .... 147 Susanna, Countess of Eglinton ..... 233 Interior of the High Church, St. Giles's . . . 148 Lintels of Doorways in Dawney Douglas's Tavern . 236 St. Giles's Church in the present day .... 149 Mylne's Square ........ 237 Grave of John Knox 150 St. Paul's Chapel, Carrubber's Close .... 240 House in High Street with memorial window, " Heave awa, lads, I'm no deid yet !" . . . 241 The City Cross . . . . . . . -152 Creech's Land . . . . . . . 153 Ruins in the Old Assembly Close, after the Great Fire, November, 1824 244 William Creech ........ 156 The Old Parliament House ...... 160 Great Hall, Parliament House . .

To face page 161 George Buchanan ....... 248 Parliament House ....... 161 St. Cecilia's Hall 252 House of the Abbots of Melrose, Strichen's Close . 256 Parliament House in the present day .... 164 Union Cellar . . . . . . . .165 Blackfriars Wynd 257 Tilling Pin, from Lady Lovat's House, Blackfriars Wynd 258 View from the Cowgate of the Buildings on the South side of the Parliament Close, the highest buildings in Edinburgh, 1794 168 House of the Earls of Morton, Blackfriars Street . 260 Stone, showing the Armorial Bearings of Cardinal Beaton, from his house, Blackfriars Wynd . . 261 Plan of the Parliament House and Law Courts . . 169 Interior of the Justiciary Court . . . . .172 Cardinal Beaton's House ...... 264 Edinburgh United Industrial School .... 265 Ruins in Parliament Square after the Great Fire, in November, 1824 . . . . . . .173 Lintel of the Door of the Mint 267 The old Scottish Mint 268 George Heriot's Drinking Cup 175 Sir William Forbes, of Pitsligo 176 Relics of the old Scottish Mint 269 Ruins in the old Market Close after the Great Fire of November, 1S24 177 Elphinstone Court ....... 272 The Earl of Selkirk's House, Hyndford's Close (South view) ........ 273 The Parliament Stairs . . . . . .180 Dr. Archibald Pitcairn ...... 181 The Earl ofSelkirk's House, Hyndford's Closes West view) 276 Seal of Arnauld Lammius . . . . .182 Tweeddale House ....... 277 Cleriheugh's Tavern . . . . . . . 1S4 The Scotsman Office ....... 284 The Town Council Chamber, Royal Exchange Lord Cockburn Street and Back of the Royal Exchange To face page 185 To face page 285 General View of the Ruins after the Great Fire of November, 1824 185 Alexander Russel ....... 285 Interior of Trinity College Church, Jeffrey Street .