The Land of the Morning, an account of Japan and its people. ... With illustrations, etc

Front matter

the LAND OF THE MORNING THE LAND OF THE MORNING AN ACCOUNT OF JAPAN AND ITS PEOPLE, BASED ON A FOUR YEARS' RESIDENCE IN THAT COUNTRY Including Œrabels into tf)E Remotest $arts of tjc Interior BY formerlv one of the professors in the imperial college of engineering, tokiyQ WITH ILLUSTRATIONS DRAWN ON WOOD BY J. BAYNE, AND A MAP EDINBURGH JAMES GEMMELL, n and 15 GEORGE IV. BRIDGE CRAWFORD AND m'cASE, PRINTERS, 15 QUEL.N STREET, EDINBURGH TO THE Present anto jformtr Stufcents OF THE KOBU-DAI-GAKKO, TOKIYO, THIS BOOK IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED.

Preface

. Interesting, and in some respects unique, as were my experiences during my four years' residence in Japan, I should not have ventured to base upon them an account of that country and its people, had various circumstances not convinced me that an endeavour to do so might prove useful and not unacceptable to the public. Certain it is that when, in January 1880, I gazed upon the receding shores of Japan from the deck of a homeward bound steamer, there was no idea further from my mind than the possibility of my writing a book on the scenes which I was leaving. It was true that I had seen much of Japan and of the Japanese, and that not only when discharging my professional duties in the capital, but also when travelling among the mountains of the interior, and visiting regions far removed from the gateways of West ern civilization.

I could not be blind to the fact that there had been granted to me fuller opportunities of studying the country and its people than fell to the lot even of most of my fellow-residents. But I did not on that account dream of writing a book. The more I had learned of the ancient civil ization around me, the more sensible had I become of my own ignorance of it. To write a treatise on such a great subject was evidently a work from which any but the ablest Japanese scholar ought to shrink. After reaching home, I went through the experience, not uncommon in circumstances such as mine, of being asked by various friends to publish a book on the country and people which I had just left, and of which I was only too glad to speak. To such requests, however, I turned a deaf ear, until I became convinced that the state of knowledge, or rather Preface.

VI ignorance, of Japan which prevailed in this country justified the publication of such information as I was able to give. Even in the most highly educated circles the most extraordinarily erroneous notions seem to be current about the island empire of the Pacific. Nor is it only popular impressions that are at fault. Many, if not most, of the text-books of geography used in our best schools contain statements about Japan which can only make those who know anything of that country stare with astonishment ; and the same may be said of at least one of our best appreciated gazetteers. A Guide Round the World, published this very year, states, as pointed out by a writer in The Japan Gazette, that the correct name of Osaka is Kioto, and that it is the Mikado's present capital — an error exactly similar to that of one who should say that the correct name of Glasgow is Edinburgh, and that it is the capital of the United Kingdom !

And this is but one mistake out of a multitude. Matters are more serious still, when similar errors are set forth in books specially written on Japan. And instances of this kind might be quoted, not merely from books published several years ago, when accurate knowledge of the country was less attainable than it is now, but from at least one book published as recently as last year, a book which forms one of a series of popular handbooks professing to give clear and accurate ideas as to the actual conditions of the different countries of the world. In thus referring to the widely prevalent errors about Japan, and the perpetuation of these in works which the public naturally accept as trustworthy, 1 do not of course mean to say that no valuable books on Japan have appeared in this country. Far from it.

But there can be no doubt that, in spite of the existence of such works, false impressions continue to be maintained and promulgated. Recognising that there really was some need for a trust worthy account of Japan and the Japanese, and that more particularly in the form of a moderate-sized volume at a moderate price, it became a question with me whether I Preface. VII should not do my best to satisfy this need, even although in so doing I should inevitably fall short of my ideal as to what a book on Japan should be. The result was, that I set myself to record what ssemed to me the most noteworthy of my experiences in Japan, supplementing these with the most recent and reliable information I could obtain on all the more important aspects of the country. And as I was constantly receiving communications from Japan, in the form of newspapers, government reports, etc., until the very time of sending my MS. to press, the reader may rest assured of this at least, that the information contained in the following pages is up to date.

I have not given nearly a complete record of my Japan experiences. My notes of travel have been very much curtailed. Whole tours have been omitted, such as that from Tokiyo across the Hida-Shinano range to the Hokuro kudo, thence down lake Biwa to Kiyoto, Osaka, and Kobe, through the famous Inland Sea to Nagasaki, and into the interior of Kiushiu, and that along the rocky shores of Idzu to Shimoda ; and the records of those tours which I have actually described are at some points necessarily discursive. My travels through the country extended, exclusive of sea voyages, to between 2000 and 3000 miles, and, inclusive of sea-voyages, to nearly 4000 miles; so that a detailed account of them would alone have been enough to fill a large volume. I have therefore confined myself to a few selections.

These, however, include notes on parts of the empire now for the first time described in' this country, parts indeed which, until my visit to them, had never been traversed by a foreigner. Frequently in the body of the work have I had to acknowledge obligations to other writers, more especially to contri butors to the Transactions of the Asiatic Society of Japan and the columns of The Japan Mail; and further acknow ledgments might have been made, but for my unwillingness to burden the book with references. Here let me express my indebtedness to Sir E. J. Reed's recent work on Japan Preface. VIII for many of the historical facts' recorded in Chapters II. and III., as well as for the quotations from Mr Hyde Clarke and Captain Brinkley given in Chapter I. The illustrations are all original, having been copied either from photographs, or from Japanese paintings, or from sketches of my own.

The map, having been compiled a year or two ago, when our information on the geography of Japan was less complete than that which I am able to give in these pages, makes a few important omissions, more especially of the names of mountains, and elsewhere I have referred to its somewhat loose mode of transliteration ; but such blemishes are more than atoned for by its general fulness and accuracy. With these few explanations, let me leave the various chapters to speak for themselves. They have been some what hurriedly written under the pressure of other duties, and I am sensible of their defects all the more deeply that the bright years of my residence in the ' Land of the Rising Sun' have inspired me with an intense appreciation of the subject of which they treat. If they do anything to arouse interest in the island empire of the Pacific among my fellow islanders of the Atlantic, any labour which has been expended upon them shall have been amply rewarded.

I cannot conclude without expressing how sensible I feel of the kindness shown me when in Japan by gentlemen con nected with H.I.M. Government, students, and others, kindness which has resulted in friendships certain to be cherished by me throughout my life as among the greatest honours of which I have ever been, or ever hope to be, deemed worthy. WILLIAM GRAY DIXON Edinburgh, December, 1881. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. The Country And Its People

Situation and Extent of Japan — Mountains — Plains — Rivers — Lakes — Harbours — Soil — Extent ofAgriculture — Great Forest Area — Painstaking Tillage — Various Agricultural Products — Mineral Resources — Luxuriant Flora — Fauna — Variety of Climate — Black Stream — Severe Winter — Moist Heat — Charming Autumn — Rainfall — Typhoons — Earthquakes — Population — Physical Aspect of the People — Their Origin — Their Language, Pages 1-33

Chapter II. Old Japan

Long Isolation of Japan — Japanese Imperial Dynasty the oldest in the World — Jimmu Tenno — Mikado descended from Sun-goddess — Seclusion of Mikado — Conquest of Korea by Empress Jingo — Assimilation of Korean Civilization — Rise of Houses of Taira and Minamoto — Usurping Mayors of the Palace — Yoshitsune — Shogun Yoritomo founds Kamakura — Dual Government — Kusunoki and the Mikado's Dream — An Asiatic Armada — The Ashikaga Shoguns — Nobunaga, Hideyoshi, and Iyeyasu — Appearance of Portuguese Traders and Priests — Distracted State of the Country — Hideyoshi overruns Korea — Tokngawa Iyeyasu selects the City of Yedo as the Centre of his Feudal Government — Full Development of Dual Administration — Contents. X Nobunaga at first favours Christianity — Story of Arrival of Padre Organtin — Spread of Christianity — Persecution by Hideyoshi — Decree of Iyeyasu against Christianity — Dire Persecution — Adoption of Policy of Isolation — Iyeyasu's Motives — Proofs that it was no unreasonable Prejudice against Things Foreign that isolated Japan — Shogun Hidetada's Mission to Europe — The Name of Christ deemed Accursed — Public Notifications against ' The Wicked Sect ' — The Legacy of Iyeyasu — Japanese and European Feudalism — The Family the Basis of Japanese Life — Clans — The Shogun, Daimiyos, Samurai, and Heimin — Walled Towns — Shogun's Attitude of Homage to the Mikado — Maxims of Government — Progress in the Arts of Peace — Heroic Zeal for Foreign Learning, .... Pages 34-81

Chapter III. New Japan

Arrival of U.S. Squadron under Commodore Perry — Consternation of Shogun and People — A Hot Debate — Treaty Signed — Southem Clans eager for Downfall of Shogun — Mikado refuses to Indorse the Treaty — A Decade of Intrigue and Assassination — Distraction of Shogun's Government — Dissensions at Imperial Court — Resignation of Shogun — Short but Severe Civil War — The Restoration — Political and Social Revolution — Okubo's Memorial — Court transferred to Yedo, now called Tokiyo or T6kei — Alteration in Mikado's Mode of Life — Complete Overthrow of Feudalism — The Daimiyos resign their Fiefs to the Mikado — Commutation of Pensions of ex-Daimiyos and ex- Samurai — A Japanese Cincinnatus — Satsuma Rebellion — Reformed Government — Popular Assemblies — Extract from H.E. Okuma's Report on the Reforms of the last Thirteen Years- Address by H. E. Sano at Close of National Exhibition of 1881 — The Japanese naturally an Assimilative People — Present Financial Condition of Japan — Japan not 'played out' — Agitation for Revision of Treaties — Spirited Foreign Policy — Christianity necessary for National Welfare, . Pages 82-130 Contents. XI

Chapter IV. Tokiyo And Its Institutions

General Bearings of the City — The Castle — Picturesqueness of the Moats — Fukiage Park — A Summer-house — Landscape Garden — View of the City from the Castle — Feudal Mansions — Curious Regulations — Iconoclasm — Officials of New Japan — Soldiers — Police — Tendency to Over-government — Prisons — Humane Treatment — Industry — Government Offices — Tobacco - smoking — Characteristics of Japanese Officials — Slavish Literalism — An Illustration of this from Old Japan — Immiscibility — Imperial College of Engineering — Imperial University — College for Ladies — Public Libraries — Learned Societies — Kudan and its View — Temple of Shokonsha — Imperial Shinto Celebration — Medley of Old and New — Railways — Street Scenes — Aspect of the People — Geniality — Politeness — Variety of Costume — Tastefulness — Medley of Europe and Asia — Western Articles for Sale — Street Signs in Various Languages — Trade Marks — Curious Specimens of English — Newspapers — Quotations from Kinji Hioron — Waggonettes — Jin-riki-shas and Jin-riki-sha-rntn — Endurance — Good Humour — Instances of Obligingness — Importunity — Regularity of Streets — Houses — Sign-boards — Shops for the Sale of Native Goods — A Bargain — Curious Form of Acuteness — Canals — Merchants — Learning how to Cheat — Post Office — The River — Asakusa with its Shrines and its Fair, Pages 131-239

Chapter V. First Experiences Of Tokiyo Life

First View of the Mountains of Japan — In Yokohama Harbour — On lhe Bluff — General Description of Yokohama — Its Trade — Chinamen's Signs — At the Imperial College of Engineering, Tokiyo — The ' Boy ' — Japanese Servants — Engagement of a Contents. XII > B0y "—Furniture of a Foreigner's Drawing-room — View from Verandah — Kane — Our Cook Takenosuke — A Betto — A Ride through the City— Visits— Evening at Kaga Yashiki— The Streets by Night— Moonlight on the Castle Moat— Multiform Culture of Foreign Community — Long Distances — Talk at Foreigners' Dinner Tables — Constant Fluctuation of Foreign Community — Auctions — An Amusing Auctioneer — Eclectic Furnishing — Rambles — Atago Yama — Graveyard — Shiba — Elabo rate Etiquette — Impudent Crows — Photograph Shops — Sunday Services — The Curio-man — Plausibility — Sagacity — Our Servants — A Religious Fair — Sale of Plants — An Earthquake — The Glories of Autumn — Ride into the Country — Ikegami — Oji — Fuji seen by Moonlight — A Christmas Tour Projected — Dissuasions of Friends — Visit to a Provision Store — Travelling Baskets — Passports, .... Pages 240-295

Chapter VI

A CHRISTMAS TOUR ROUND FUJI-SAN. The Koshiu-kaido — Peasants' Cottages — A Yadoya — Discomforts of Squatting — A Japanese Meal — Tsuun Kuwaisha, or Transport Office — Coolies' and Pack-horses' Standard Loads — Takenosuke's Importance — Inquisitiveness and Politeness — Stone Fascines — A Foreigner's Safety in Japan — A Nesan — Respect for Government and for Learning — Our Beds — The Makura, or Japanese Pillow — Pass of Kobotoke — A Tea-gift — Pack-horses — A Sorry Plight — Picturesque Valleys — Fuji-san — A Water-wheel — 'Monkey Bridge' — A Fellow-traveller — Polite Children — A Moonlight Walk — A Hospitable Reception — Intense Cold — A SublimeMoming — A Gift — Persistent Curiosity — Ride through a Forest — Unstable Equilibrium — The Sacred Mountain by Moonlight — A Gipsy-like Scene — 'Peke' — Our Pack-horse bolts — Silver Rope Falls — A Painful Ride — Cruelty — Generosity — Sunrise — Last Night of 1S76 — New Year Cake — Ride in a Kago — Snow — Severe Cold — Natural Hot Springs — The Tokaido — Festivities, Pages 295-354 Contents. XIII

Chapter VII. Japanese Students

Proverbial Devotion to Study — Preparing for the Entrance Examination — The Entrance Examination — At Lecture — Attentiveness — Good Humour — Acuteness— Decorum — Perplexing Questions — Disproportional Development of Memory — Extracts from Essays — Long Sick List— Neglect of Physical Exercise — Overwork — Affected Indifference to Matters purely Japanese — Patriotism — Narrow Intellectualism — Sense of Honour — Quiet Courtesy — Imitativeness — Minds Clear rather than Deep — Academic Honours gained Abroad — Originality not wanting — Quick Development and Rapid Decay — Self-conceit — Gratitude — A Tombstone at Uyeno — A Memorial Painting — Extracts from Letters — The Future of Japan Hopeful, . Pages 355-380

Chapter VIII. Some Public Celebrations

Visit to the College of Government Ministers — H.E. Iwakura — Incidents in his History — H. I. H. Prince Higashi-Fushimi — General Otori — A Collation — A Droll Official — Opening of the College by H. I M. the Mikado — Great Preparations — His Majesty's Appearance — Presentation — This contrasted with similar Ceremonies in Kampfer' s Time — Changes in Court Ceremonial accompanied by no Diminution of Loyalty — H. I. M. the Kogo and her Ladies-in- Waiting — A Graduation — Jollity — Illumination at Uyeno — Japanese and European Music — Ancient Dances at the Imperial Academy of Music — Assassination of H. E. Okubo, Minister of the Interior — A State Funeral — A Dirge — Story of Okubo and the Kariyasu Tunnel — Entertainment to General Grant — The Rising Sun and the Stars and Stripes — Fete Champetre at Uyeno — Lavish Hospitality — Brilliant Festivities — Fireworks — Dinner to Professor Nordenskjold — Changes in Ladies' Etiquette, Pages 381-431 Contents. XIV

Chapter IX. Light And Shade

The Japanese essentially a Pleasure-loving People — The Theatre- Stage Furniture — Extravagant Acting — Origin of Dramatic Performances — Story of Ichikawa Danjuro — Japanese Honesty — Hot Baths— Dr Baelz's View of their Healthfulness — Professional Musicians — A Daimiyo's Musical Party — Tea-drinking — Games of Various Kinds— Family Life — New Year Festivities — Kites — Feast of Dolls — Feast of Flags — Illumination of the River — Snow Men — Outdoor Games — Love of Nature — Plum and Peach Blossoms — Cherry Blossoms at Uyeno and Mukojima — Verses — Kameido and its Wistarias — Irises — Ode to the Lotus Flower — Chrysanthemum Tableaux — Autumn — The Elixir of Life — Licentiousness — Female Virtue — Polite Untruthfulness — Fickleness — Improvidence — Kindliness — Tastesulness — Art — The Slums of Tokiyo — Delusive Gloss — Disease — Death-rate — A Fire — Firemen — A Scene of Consternation — ' Burnt Out ' — Christian Benevolence — Incendiarism — Woman's Status not Satisfactory — The Stepmother — A Sad Tale — Love Songs — Sickness and Death — A Bright-minded Philosopher — ' The Mountain of Death ' — A Dirge — Proverbs,. . . Pages 432-501

Chapter X. Shintoism And Buddhism

Two Prevailing Religions in Japan — Pure Shinto considered by Mr Satow a Natural Religion in a very Early Stage of Development — Ancient Literature— A good State Machine — Recent Government Patronage— Shiba Temple burned— Celestial and Terrestrial Kami — Deification of Heroes — A Moral Code not needed in Japan!— Pilgrimages— The Mecca of Shinto— Pious Dogs- Rapid Progress of Buddhism— Its Influence at Court— Striking Analogies between Buddhism and Romanism — Buddhism still the Popular Religion— Missionary Zeal— Its Past History Brilliant— Thirty-five Sects— The Hokke Sect -Ranters— The Shin Contents. XV Sect — ' A Brief Account of Shinshiu ' — Approximation to Chris tianity — Justification by Faith — Rev. Dr Gordon's Reasons for not considering Shinshiu Buddhism a pure Theism such as is taught in the Old Testament — Religious Munificence — Fanati cism — A Railway Project — Religious Indifference — Scepticism — Shintoism and Buddhism doomed, . . Pages 502-520

Chapter XI. Pilgrimages

Pilgrims — Their Appearance and Arrangements — A Pilgrimage to Fuji-san — On the Way — At a Rest-house — In a Yadoya — Ceremonial Ablutions — On the Sacred Mountain — Stations — 'A Pure Heart' — Worshipping the Rising Sun — The Shadow of the Mountain — Sanctification of Raiment — Bay of Kawatsu — Influence of Fuji-san — Superstitious Guides — A Devil — Compulsory Worship — Climbing Seasons — Nikko — Its Solemnity — Superb Avenues — A Semi-circle of Mountains — Shabby Coaches — Limping Steeds — A Stoppage — Unequally Yoked — A Wild Zig-zag — Broad Gauge — Corporal Punishment — An Express Diligence — A Sacred Bridge — Pagoda — Temple of Toshogu — Dazzling Splendour — Magnificent Architecture in Wood — Royal Gifts — Brilliant, yet Tasteful, Colouring — Alto-relievo Carving — Shinto Ministers and Buddhist Monks — Tombs of Iyeyasu and Iyemitsu — A Typical Fall — Curios — A Land of Streams — Pass of Chiuzenji — A High Waterfall — Chiuzenji Lake — Yumoto Lake — Sulphuretted Hydrogen — Shirane-yama — Prospected Railway — A Break-down, .... Pages 520-543

Chapter XII. From The Eastern To The Western Capital

Three Highways— 'Paradise of Babies' — Unconventional Attire — Kofu — A Full Yadoya — Lack of Privacy— Picturesque Glimpses — Discomfort — Fructiculture — Silk Factory — Normal School — A Japanese Dinner— Health-drinking— Whale — Hospitality— An Enlightened Governor — Old School Courtesy — Shimo-nosuwa — Salutation from the Bath — An Effective Waterproof— Contents. XVI A Comely Peasant Girl — Female Labour — Transcendent Beauty — Swiss-like Villages— Frugal and Industrious Peasantry — Pil grims — Polite Children — Water — A Siesta — Our Costume — Hot Bath — Monotonous Fare — Bare Necessaries of Life — Rice culture — Discomforts of Travel — 'Cocoa Nuts' — A Fair Com panion — Officialism under Difficulties — A Funereal Hill — Rival Hostesses — Obsequiousness — City of Nagoya — Castle — Normal School — Hospital — Porcelain Manufacture — Shrine of the Sacred Sword — 'Was she Very Pretty?' — Banko Ware — Itinerary, Pages 544-578

Chapter XIII. Three Classic Cities

Kiyoto : — The most Fascinating City in Japan — Its Situation and General Appearance — Striking Lights and Shades — Strangely Contradictory Traits of Character — Tasteful Houses and Costumes — Imperial Palace — Marvels of Art — Garden — Ancient Trees — Translation of an old Poem — Many Beautiful and Historical Resorts — Temples of Nishi Honguwanji — Spacious Hall — Exquisite Carving — A Service — Resemblance to Romanism — A Sermon — Abbot's Palace — Old Pavilion and Garden — Monastery of Chion-in — A Peaceful Retreat — Musical Passage — Immense Bell — Singing and Dancing Girls — The City as seen by Moonlight from Maruyama — ' Unless you want me to become a Buddhist, let us away from this ' — Educational Institutions — Industries. Osaka : — Founded by Jimmu Tenno — Of old the Capital — Imperial Self-sacrifice — Castle — Immense Stones — Imperial Mint — Commerce — Wealth.

Nara: — A Lovelorn Maiden — Deer Park — Daibutsu — Ancient Pine — Dolls — The Capital in the Eighth Century A.D. — Spirit of Old Japan — Poem — Buddhist Prayer Meeting — Garrulous Nesans — Peaceful Evening — Love Song. Hiyei-zan, . . Pages 579-612

Chapter XIV. Mountain And Flood

The Vast Solitudes of Hida — Savage Grandeur — Benighted— Japanese Alps — Geological Formation of Hida-Shinano Range — Contents. XVII View from Yatsu-ga-dake— Suggestion of the Yosemite Valley — ■ An Arcadian Scene — Wild Flowers— Larks — Silkworms — Mos quitoes — Thunder-storm — A Perilous Ascent — An Unexpected Chasm — Bewilderment — Two Namesakes — Our Pack-horse falls into a Valley — A Sacred Portal — Exaggerated Report — Hornets — Sequestered Glens — Out of the World — Lack of Curiosity — Mistaken for Japanese Officials — Ludicrous Surprise — Primi tive Quarters — Miraculous Plums — An Inquisitive Schoolmaster — High Roofs — Snowed up — Our Foot-gear — Stemming the Current — Our 'Boy' and his Watch — A Natural Cathedral — Primitive Night-quarters — A Scramble — Warning — Blooming Prairie — The Murodo of Haku-san — View from Haku-san — Comfort and Hospitality — The Hokurokudo — ' Ticklish Work ' — 'The Devil's Castle'— A Workshop of Nature— A Basket Ferry — A Primitive Hydropathic — An Unconventional Meet ing — Solfataras on Tate-yama — Marvellous View — Forced Marches, Pages 613-65S

Chapter XV. Christianity In Japan

fapan the first to welcome the Rays of the first Easter Morn — Xavier — Golden Opportunity for the Church — Representatives of leading Churches of Christendom — Spread of Christianity — Prospects of Protestantism more hopeful than those of Romanism — Toleration — Materialism — Contempt for Religion — Fickleness — Success of Christianity beginning to dispel the prevalent Indifference — Buddhist Opposition — Presentation to the King of Hawaii — Low Moral Tone of Foreign Community — Unreasonable Opposition — Good Feeling among Missionaries — Spread of Christianity outside the Ordinary Channels — Tokiyo Christian Association — Atheistic Lectures — Students' Bible Class — Series of Christian Lectures — Influence of Christian Family Life — Meetings on a Nobleman's Domain — Possibilities of Good open to Christian Laymen— Sunday Christian Lectures in a College —Sunrise— The Withered Lotus— A Layman's Influence at Kanazawa— The Land of the Rising Sun, .

Pages 659-689 b LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Map of Japan, ...... Facing I Within the Imperial Precincts, Kijoto, . . >» 3° On the Inner Moat, Yedo Castle, E. Side, . . ,, 89 Chinese Ideograms, ....-• '3° Garden at Hotta Yashiki, Tokiyo, . . . Facing 143 AJin-rikisha, . . . . . • .205 ' A Happy New Year,' ..... 223 Buddhist Priests at a Tomb, . . . . .267 Mount Fuji and Kawaguchi Lake, . . . Facing 327 Japanese Boats, ...... 354 His Excellency Okubo Toshimitsu, .... 408 A Japanese Lady, ...... 43° Tea-drinking Utensils and Plum Branch, . . . 446 Tea-drinking, . . . . . . . 471 Daibutsu (' Great Buddha') at Kamakura, . . . 509 Mount Fuji as seen from Yenoshima, .... 527 A Rainy Day, ....... 55^ Buddhist Monastery overlooking Lake Biwa, . . . 577 Peasants at Work, ...... 604 Our Night-quarters in the Ojira-kawa Valley, . . 635 Bridge across the Tedori-gawa, ... . . 644 The Summit of Tate-yama with Yari-ga-take in the Distance, NOTE ON THE SYSTEM ADOPTED IN THE TRANSLITERATION OF JAPANESE WORDS.

The system which I have followed in transliterating Japanese words is that adopted by Dr Hepburn in his Japanese- English and English-Japanese Dictionary, and may be roughly stated thus, — The vowels have their Italian, and the consonants, for the most part, their English sounds ; or, more particularly :— a has the sound of a in father, but is shorter. e „ „ a in same, but is shorter. i „ „ te in meet. o , „ o in no, but is shorter. u „ „ oo1 in foot. i and u are sometimes almost inaudible. Thus Tokiyo, yashiki, Iyeyasu, and Asakilsa, are pronounced almost as if spelt respectively Tok'yo, yash'ki, IyeyasS, and Asak'sa. To guard against mispronunciation, I have occasionally, in such circumstances, written these vowels as i and ii. But, as a rule, a vowel is to be understood to be short, unless it is marked with a circumflex.

The Japanese are very careful in discriminating between long and short vowels, and I have endeavoured to be accurate in this matter. Through an oversight of my own, the word shiil (province), occurring in such proper names as HonshiA, KiushiA, has, in the earlier part of the book, been printed without the circumflex. 1 N.B. — Not that of u in union. Note. XX When two vowels come together, each retains its own sound; thus : — ae is pronounced almost as the English word eye. ai „ as eye. an „ as mt in out. ei „ almost as ay in say. g is always hard, being pronounced either like g in go, or, when in the middle of a word, like ng in ringer. This ng sound is characteristic of the Tokiyo dialect, and is not heard in the southern parts of the empire. ch is always soft, as in church. 11, when final, has its French sound, as in mon.

The other consonants have either exactly or nearly their English sounds. v is often all but, if not altogether, inaudible, as in Uyeno and Yenoshima, which we might spell respectively Ueno (Oo-ay-no) and Enoshima. In the case of double consonants, both must be sounded ; thus, amma = am-ma, Nippon = Nip-pon. Note. — The spelling of the names marked in the map does not in every case conform to the above system of translitera tion, there being still traces of the loose system prevalent when the map was first compiled. THE LAND OF THE MORNING.

Chapter I. The Country And Its People

Situation and Extent of Japan — Mountains — Plains — Rivers — Lakes — Harbours — Soil — Extent of Agriculture — Great Forest Area — Painstaking Tillage — Various Agricultural Products — Mineral Resources — Luxuriant Flora — Fauna — Variety of Climate— Black Stream — Severe Winter — Moist Heat — Charming Autumn — Rainfall — Typhoons — Earthquakes — Population — Physical Aspect of the People — Their Origin — Their Language. IN looking at a map of Asia, one cannot but notice a somewhat crescent-shaped1 group of islands lying off the eastern coast, its southern extremity coming comparatively near the mainland at the promontory of Korea, and its northern almost linked to Siberia by the long ridge of Saghalin on the north, and the stepping-stones of the Kurile islands on the north east. This is Nihon or Nippon {i.e. ' Land of the Rising Sun '), or Dai (i.e. ' Great ') Nihon or Nippon, 1 One name of Japan is Seiteishiu ('Dragon-fly Land'), from a supposed resemblance in its form to that insect.

A The Country and its People. 2 or, as we call it, Japan.1 This main group consists of four large islands, viz., Honshiu (often incorrectly named Nippon), Kiushiu, Shikoku, and Yezo, and several thousand smaller ones, and extends from 310 to 45° 30' N. lat. Of the four principal islands, Honshiu is much the largest, and, being regarded as the mainland, is seldom designated by the Japanese with any special name. It is in shape an irregular crescent convex towards the south-west. From its western point, Kiushiu (' Nine Provinces ') runs south, being separated from it by the straits of Shimonoseki, barely a mile broad ; and within the angle thus formed by Kiushiu and the western horn of Honshiu, lies the still smaller island of Shikoku (' Four Provinces '). Between Kiushiu and Shikoku on the south, and Honshiu on the north, is the Seto Uchi, the famous Inland Sea of Japan.