Lake Ngami; or, Explorations and discoveries during four years wandering in the wilds of South Western Africa ... With a map, and numerous illustrations, etc

Front matter

. .LL BIT IiITH iAKE. MAMI; OR, EXPLORATIONS AND DISCOVERIES, DURING FOUR YEARS' WANDERINGS IN THE WILDS OF SOUTH WESTERN AFRICA. BY CHAELES JOHN ANDERSSON. WITH A MAP, AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS REPRESENTING SPORTING ADVENTURES. SUBJECTS OF NATURAL HISTORY, DEVICES FOR DESTROYING WILD ANIMALS, &c. LONDON: HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS, SUCCESSORS TO HENRY COLBURN, 13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1856. [The Author of this Work reserves to himself the right of Translation.] I0>TD0N : CnABLES "SEVAN AOT SOU, PEQJIEES, SOUTH AUDLEY STREET.

Preface

. The foUowing Narrative of Explorations and Discoveries during four years in the wilds of the South-Western parts of Africa, con tains an account of two expeditions in that continent between the years 1850 and 1854. In the first of these journeys, the countries of the Damaras (previously all but unknown in Europe) and of the Ovambo (till now a terra incognita) were explored ; in the second, the newly-discovered Lake Ngami, was reached by a route that had always been deemed impracticable. It is more than probable that this route (the shortest and best) will be adopted as the one by which commerce and civilization may eventually find thenway to the Lake regions. The first journey was performed in company with Mr. Francis Galton, to whom we are indebted for a work on ' Tropical South Africa ; ' on the second, the Author was alone, and altogether dependent on his own very scanty resources.

It was suggested to the Author, as regards the first journey, that from the ground having been pre-occupied, it would be best for him to commence where his friend left off. There was some reason for this. But, on mature consideration, he deemed it desir able to start from the beginning ; otherwise, he could not have given a connected and detailed account of the regions he visited. Moreover, from the Author having remained two years longer in Africa than Mr. Galton,. he has not only been enabled to >-- a

PREFACE.

. ascertain the truth respecting much that at first appeared obscure and doubtftd, but has had many opportunities of enlarging the stock of information acquired by himself and friend when together. Be sides, they were often separated for long periods, during which many incidents and adventures occurred to the Author that are scarcely alluded to in ' Tropical South Africa.' And, lastly, the impressions received by different individuals, even under similar chcumstances, are generally found to vary greatly ; which, in itself, would be a sufficient reason for the course the Author has decided on pursuing. As will be seen, the present writer has not only described the general appearance of the regions he visited, but has given the best information he was able to collect of the geological features of the country, and ofits probable mineral wealth ; and, slight though it may be, he had the gratification of finding that the hints he threw out at the Cape and elsewhere, were acted upon ; that mining companies were formed, and that mining operations are now carried on to some extent in regions heretofore considered as utterly worthless.

The Author has also spoken, at some length, of the religion and manners and customs of such of the native tribes (previously all but unknown to Europeans) visited by him during his several journeys. He also noted many of their superstitions ; for, too much attention, as it has been truly observed, cannot be paid to the mytho logical traditions of savages. Considerable discretion is, of course, needful in this matter ; as, if every portion were to be literally recei-^ed, we might be led into grievous errors. Still, by attending to what many might call absurd superstitions, we not only attain to a knowledge of the mental tendencies of the natives, but are made acquainted with interesting facts touching the geographical distribution of men and inferior animals. Since the different members constituting the brute creation are so intimately connected with the economy of man, and since many of the beasts and bhds indigenous to those parts of Africa visited by the Author, are still but imperfectly known, he has thought it advisable to enter largely into their habits, &c. ; the rather, as natural history has, from childhood, been his favourite pursuit, and is a sub ject on which he therefore feels conversant. And though part of what he has stated regarding the rhinoceros, the hippopotamus, the

PREFACE.

. V koodoo, the ostrich, and others of the almost incalculable varieties of animals found in the African wilderness, may be known to some inquirers, it is still hoped that the general reader will find matter he has not previously met with. The larger portion of the beautiful plates to be found in this work (faithfully depicting the scenes described) are by Mr. Wolf — ' the Landseer of animals and vegetation,' to quote the words of the Earl of Ellesmere in a note which his lordship did me the honour to write to me. The Author has endeavoured in the following pages, faithfully, and in plain and miassuming language, to record his experiences, impressions, feelings, and impulses, under chcumstances often pecu liarly trying. He lays claim to no more credit than may attach to an earnest desire to make himself useful, and to further the cause of science.

It is more than probable that his career as an explorer and pioneer to civilization and commerce is terminated. Still, he would fain hope that his humble exertions may not be without their fruits. When he first arrived in Africa, he generally travelled on foot throughout the whole of the day, regardless of heat, and almost scorning the idea of riding on horse-back, or using any other mode of conveyance. Indeed, he was wont to vie with the natives in endurance ; but now, owing to the severe hardships he has under gone, his constitution is undermined, and the foundation of a malady has been laid that it is feared he will carry with him to the day of his death Yet, such is the perverseness of human nature, that, did chcumstances permit, he would return to this life of trial and privation. a LITHOGRAPHS.

PAGE 1 . Lions pulling down Giraffe. — Sketched and dra^n on Stone by J. AVolf To face Title 2. Damaras . . . Sketched by Edm. Walker, and drawn on Stone by Brandard 49 3. The Lucky Escape . . Sketched and drawn on Stone by J. Wolf . . . .110 4. Shooting Trap . . „ „ „ 126 5. Ovambo .... Sketched by Edm. Walker, and drawn on Stone by Brandard 196 6. Unwelcome Hunting Com- \ Sketched and drawn on Stone by panions . . .J J. Wolf .... 213 7. Coursing Young Ostriches . „ „ ,, 253 8. Oryx or Gemsbok . . ,, ,, „ 279 9. Chasing the Eland . . -„ „ ,, 381 10. The Approach of Elephants ,, ,, „ 414 11. More Close than Agreeable ,, ,, „ 422 12. Desperate Situation . . ,, „ „ 424 13. Nakong and Leche . . „ ,, ,, 448 14. The Koodoo ... „ „ „ 484 15. Bayeye .... Sketched by Mr. Charles Bell, and drawn on Stone by Brandard 502 16.

Harpooning Hippopotamus Sketched and drawn on Stone by J. Wolf .... 521 The above Illustrations are lithographed by M. and N. Hanhart. 17. Map. — Drawn by E. Bavenstein, and lithographed by Schenck and McFarlane to face LIST OF WOOD ENGRAVINGS. PAGE 1. Malay 7 1 Sketched by the Author, drawn 2. View of Walfisch Bay . 1 3 )■ on wood, and engraved by 3. Hill-Damara Pipe ... 80 J Pearson. 4. Fan Palm 165 1 Sketched by Major Robert Gary den, drawn on wood, and 5. Ovambo Pipe 172 \ . , •„ r j engraved by Dalziel. 6. „ Dagger and Sheath. 173 \ DraWD 0" WOod' and enSraved ' by Pearson. " .... Sketched by the Author, drawn 8. ,, Basket forMerchan- I . -, , . J f on wood, and engraved by dize 174 j Dalziel. 9. Otjikoto Fountain . . . 180 J (Sketched by Major Robert Garden, drawn on wood, and engraved by Dalziel. 11.

Ovambo Beer-Cup and Beer- 1 „ ,_. Sketched by the Author, drawn Spoon 195 I ' 12. Ovambo Guitar .... 195 s °n W°°d' and «**""** **■ io nr a -nz ,™ Dalziel. 13. ., Meat Dish . . . 199 J 14. ,, Dwelling house and 1 Sketched by Major Robert Corn stores . . . . 201 c Garden, drawn on wood, and 15. View in Ondonga . . . 203 J engraved by Dalziel. 16. Ovambo Blacksmiths atwork 204 \ Drawn on wood by Palmer, and 17. Damara Grave .... 227 J engraved by Pearson. 18. Jonker Afrikaner . . . . 235 { Sketched the AtITH0R> drawn c on wood, and engraved by 19. Wild Boar's Eead . . . 236 j Dalziel LIST OF WOOD ENGRAVINGS. VIII PAGE 1 Sketched by J. Wolf, drawn on 20. Skull of a Bechuana Ox .317)- wood by Palmer, and engraved J by Pearson. „, _ , _ , . „.„ 1 Drawn on wood, and engraved 21. Dacre' s Pulpit .... 346 ° ) by Dalziel. „„ „ „„, 1 Drawn on wood by Palmer, and 22.

Neqro Boy 351 > „ J ) engraved by Pearson. 23. Pit-falls 376 | Drawn on wood, and engraved 24. Heads of Rhinoceroses . . 386 i by Dalziel. 25. Horns of Rhinoceros Oswellii 388 } Drawn on wood, and engraved 27. The Bechuana Picho . . 454 1 Drawn on wood by Palmer, and 28. Ascending the Teoge . . . 479 J engraved by Pearson. 29. Tsetse Fly 489 I DraWU °n W°°d' and enSraved J by Dalziel. 30. The Reed Ferry . . . . 497 ") 1 1 M ri 1 «; I a I Drawn on wood by Palmer, and ,„ rr- TT r , o I engraved by Pearson. 32. Hippopotamus Harpoon . . 518 J b J 33. The Reed Raft and Har- } Drawn on wood, and engraved pooners 520 i by Dalziel. „. m, ri cn, ) Drawn on wood, and engraved 34. The Spear 521 > . ° ' by Pearson. 35. Egyptians and Hippopotamus 523 1 36. The Spear 524 I Drawn on wood and engraved by 37. „ Reel . 524 J Peakson- (Sketched by Mr. Alex.

Keiller, drawn on wood by Palmer, and engraved by Pearson. 39. Author and Steed broken "1 , ,„, I Drawn on wood, and engraved 40. Signal Station at Cape Toivn 536 J CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Departure from Sweden — Day Dreams — Fraternal Love — A Tempting Offer — Preparations for Journey to Africa — Departure from England — Arrival at the Cape — Town and Inhabitants — Table Mountain — Curious Legend — Preparation for Journey into the Interior — Departure for Walfisch Bay . . . . 1 — 12

Chapter II

Arrival at Walfisch Bay — Scenery — Harbour Described — Want of Water — Capabilities for Trade — Fish — Wild Fowl — Mirage — Sand Fountain — The Bush-tick — The Naras — Quadrupeds Scarce — Meeting the Hottentots — Their Filthy Habits — The Alarum— The Turn Out — Death of a Lion — Arrival at Scheppmansdorf — the Place described — Mr. Bam — Missionary Life — Ingratitude of Natives — Missionary Waggons ...... 13 — 28

Chapter III

Preparations for Journey — Breaking-in Oxen — Departure from Scheppmansdorf — An Infuriated Ox — The Naarip Plain — The Scarlet Flower — The Usab Gorge — The Swakop River — Tracks of Rhinoceros Seen — Anecdote of that Animal — A Sunrise in the Tropics — Sufferings from Heat and Thirst — Arrival at Daviep : great Resort of Lions — A Horse and Mule killed by them — The Author goes in Pursuit — A Troop of Lions — Unsuccessful Chase — Mules' Flesh Palatable ■ . 29—42

Chapter IV

The Gnoo and the Gemsbok — Pursuit of a Rhinoceros — Venomous Fly — Fruit of the Acacia Nutritious — Sun-stroke — Crested Parrot — A Giraffe Shot — Tjobis Fountain — Singular Omelet — Nutritious Gum — Arrival at Richterfeldt — Mr. Rath and the Missions — The Damaras : fheir Persons, Habits, &c. — Lions Troublesome — Panic — Horse Sickness ....... 43 — X contents.

Chapter V

Hans Larsen — His Exploits — He joins the Expedition — How People travel on Ox-back — Rhinoceros Hunt — Death of the Beast — ' Look Before You Leap' — Anecdote proving the Truth of the Proverb — Hans and the Lion — The Doctor in Difficulties — Sufferings on the Naarip Plain — Arrival at Scheppmansdorf . 56 — 64

Chapter VI

Return to Scheppmansdorf — Training Oxen for the Yoke — Sporting — The Flamingo — The Butcher Bird : curious Superstition regarding it — Preparing for Journey — Servants described . 65 — 72

Chapter VII

Departure from Scheppmansdorf — Cattle refractory at Starting — Tineas — Always Travel by Night — Rhinoceros Hunt — The Author in Danger of a Second Sun-stroke — Reach Onanis — A Tribe of Hill- Damaras settled there — Singular Manner in which these People smoke — Effects of the Weed — The Euphorbia Candelabrum — Remarkable Properties of this Vegetable Poison — Guinea Fowl : the best Manner of shooting them — Meet a Troop of Giraffes — Tjobis Fountain again — Attacked by Lions — Providential Escape — Arrival at Richterfeldt 73—86 CHAPTER VIH. A hearty Welcome — We remove the Encampment — An Apparition — Audacity of Wild Beasts — Depriving Lions of their Prey — Excessive Heat — Singular Effects of great Heat — Depart for Barmen — Meet a Troop of Zebras — Their Flesh not equal to Venison — The Missionary's Wail — A Sad Catastrophe — The 'Kameel-doorn' — Buxton Fountain — The Scorpion — Arrival at Barmen . . 87 — 98

Chapter IX

Barmen — Thunder-storm in the Tropics — A Man Killed by Lightning — Warm Spring — Mr. Hahn : his Missionary Labour ; Seed sown in Exceeding Stony Ground — The Lake Omanbonde — Mr. Galton's Mission of Peace — The Author meets a Lion by the way ; the Beast bolts — Singular Chase of a Gnoo- — ' Killing Two Birds with One Stone' — A Lion Hunt — The Author escapes Death by a Miracle — Consequences of shooting on a Sunday . . . 99 — 1 1 1

Chapter X

A Christmas in the Desert — Mr. Galton's Return from the Erongo Mountain — He passes numerous Villages — Great Drought; the CONTENTS . XI Natives have a Choice of Two Evils — The Hill-Damaras — The Damaras a Pastoral People — The Whole Country Public Property — Enormous Herds of Cattle — They are as destructive as Locusts to the Vegetation — Departure from Richterfeldt — The Author kills an Oryx — The Oxen refractory — Danger of traversing dry Water courses on the Approach of the Rainy Season — Message from the Robber-Chief Jonker — Emeute amongst the Servants — Depart for Schmelen's Hope 112 — 119

Chapter XI

Schmelen's Hope — Scenery — Missionary Station — Raid of the Namaquas — Ingratitude of the Natives — Jonker's Feud with Kahichene ; his Barbarities ; his Treachery — Mr. Galton departs for Eikhams — Author's successful Sporting Excursions — He captures a young Steinbok and a Koodoo — They are easily Domesticated — Hyænas very troublesome ; several destroyed by Spring-Guns — The latter described — Visit from a Leopard; it wounds a Dog; Chase and Death of tbe Leopard— The Caracal . . . 120—129 CHAPTER XŒ. Wild Fowl abundant — The great Bustard — The Termites — Wild Bees — Mushrooms — The Chief Zwartbooi — Return of Mr. Galton — He makes a Treaty with Jonker — He visits Rehoboth — Misdoings of John Waggoner and Gabriel — Change of Servants — Swarm of Caterpillars — A Reconnoitering Expedition — Thunder-Storm — The Omatako Mountains — Zebra Flesh a God-send — Tropical Phenomenon — The Damaras not remarkable for Veracity — Encamp in an Ant-Hill — Return to Schmelen's Hope — Preparations for visiting Omanbonde 130—141 CHAPTER XHI.

Depart from Schmelen's Hope — Meeting with Kahichene — Oxen stolen — Summary Justice — Superstition— Meeting an old Friend — Singular Custom — Gluttony of the Damaras — How they eat Flesh by the Yard and not by the Pound — Superstitious Custom — A Nondescript Animal — The Author loses his Way — Ravages of the Termites — 'Wait a bit, if you please' — Magnificent Fountain — Remains of Damara Villages — Horrors of War — Meet Bushmen — Meet Damaras — Difficulties encountered by African Travellers — Reach the Lake Omanbonde — Cruel Disappointment . . 142 — CONTENTS. XII

CHAPTER XIV.

Omanbonde visited by Hippopotami — Vegetation, &c, Described — Game somewhat scarce — Combat between Elephant and Rhinoceros — Advance or Retreat — Favourable Reports of the Ovambo-Land — Resolve to proceed there — Reconnoitre the Country— Depart from Omanbonde — Author shoots a Giraffe — Splendid Mirage — The Fan-Palm — The Guide absconds — Commotion amongsts the Natives — Arrive at Okamabuti — Unsuccessful Elephant Hunt — Vegetation — Accident to Waggon — Obliged to proceed on Ox-back — The Party go Astray — Baboon Fountain — Meeting with the Ovambo ; their personal Appearance, &c. — Return to Encampment — An Elephant killed — Discover a curious Plant — Immorality — Reflections 160 — 177

CHAPTER XV.

Depart from Okamabuti — Visit from a Lion — Amulets — Re-visit Baboon Fountain — Otjikoto ; a wonderful Freak of Nature ; remarkable Cavern — Natives unacquainted with the Art of Swimming — Fish abundant in Otjikoto ; frequented by immense Flocks of Doves — Panic of the Ovambo on seeing Birds shot on the Wing — Arrive at Omutjamatunda — A Greasy Welcome — Ducks and Grouse numerous — Author finds himself somewhat ' overdone' — ' Salt-Pans ' — All ' look blue' — A Second Paradise — Hospitable Reception — Vegetation — -People live in Patriarchal Style — Population — Enormous Hogs — Arrive at the residence of the redoubtable Nangoro. 178—191

CHAPTER XVI.

Visit from Nangoro — His extreme Obesity — One must be fat to wear a Crown — His non-appreciation of Eloquence — Singular Effects of Fireworks on the Natives — Cure for making a wry Face — Ball at the Palace — The Ladies very attractive and very loving — Their Dress, Ornaments. &c. — Honesty of the Ovambo — Kindness to the Poor — Love of Country — Hospitality — Delicate Manner of eating — Loose Morals — Laws of Succession — Religion — Houses — Domestic Animals — Implements of Husbandry — Manner of tilling the ■ Ground — Articles of Barter — Metallurgy . . 192 — 205

CHAPTER XVII.

The River Cunene — The Travellers are Prisoners at Large — Kingly Revenge — Kingly Liberality — Depart from Odonga — Suffering and consequences resulting from Cold — Return to Okamabuti — Damara CONTENTS. XIII Women murdered by Bushmen — Preparations for Journey — Obtain Guides — Depart from Tjopopa's Werft — Game abundant — Author and three Lions stalk Antelopes in Company— Extraordinary Visita tion — The Rhinoceros's Guardian Angel — The Textor Erythrorhyn chus — The Amadina Squamifrons ; singular Construction of its Nest— Return to Barmen 206 — 216 CHAPTER XVHI. The Damaras — Whence they came — Their Conquests — The Tide turns — Damara-Land only partially inhabited — Climate — Seasons — Mythology — Religion — Superstitions — Marriage — Polygamy — Children — Circumcision — Bury tbeir Dead — Way they Mourn — Children interred Alive — Burial of the Chief, and Superstitions consequent thereon — Maladies — Damaras do not live long ; the cause thereof — Food — Music and Dancing — How they swear — Power of the Chieftain limited — Slothful People — Numerals — Astronomy — Domestic Animals ; their diseases .... 217 — 232

CHAPTER XIX.

Despatch a Messenger to Cape-Town — Depart from Barmen — Eikhams — Eyebrecht — Depart from Eikhams — Elephant Fountain — Tunobis — Enormous quanties of Game — Shooting by Night at the 'Skarm' — The Author has several narrow Escapes — Checked in attempt to reach tbe Ngami — The Party set out on tlieir Return — Reach Elephant Fountain — How to make Soap — -Pit-falls — A Night Adventure — Game scarce — Join Hans — The Party nearly poisoned — Arrival at Walfisch Bay — A Tub Adventure — Extraordinary Mortality amongst the Fish — Author narrowly escapes Drowning — Arrival of the Missionary Vessel — Letters from Home — Mr. Galton returns to Europe — Reflections .... 233 — 252

CHAPTER XX.

Capture of Young Ostriches — Natural History of the Ostrich ; Where found ; description of ; Size ; Weight ; Age ; Voice ; Strength ; Speed ; Food ; Breeding ; Incubation ; Cunning ; Stones found in Eggs ; Chicks ; Flesh — Brain in Request amongst the Romans — Eggs highly prized — Uses of Egg- Shells — Feathers an Article of Commerce — Ostrich Parasols — The Bird's destructive Propensities — Habits — Resembles Quadru peds — Domestication — The Chase — Snares — Ingenious Device — Enemies of the Ostrich. 253—269 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXI.

Sudden Floods — John Allen's Sufferings — Hans and the Author enter into Partnership — Young Grass injurious to Cattle — Depart from Walfisch Bay — Attractive Scenery — Troops of Lions — Extraordinary Proceedings of Kites — Flight of Butterflies — Attachment of Animals to One Another — Arrival at Richterfeldt ; at Barmen — Hans' narrow Escape — Self-Possession — Heavy Rains — Runaway Ox; he tosses the Author — Depart from Barmen — Difficulty of crossing Rivers — Encounter great Numbers of Oryxes . 270 — 278 CHAPTER XXH. The Oryx ; more than one Species — Where found — Probably known in Europe previous to the Discovery of the Passage round Cape-of-Good-Hope — Description of the Oryx — Gregarious Habits — Speed — Food — Water not necessary to its Existence — Will face the Lion — -Formidable Horns — Their Use — Flesh — The Chase of this Animal 279—283

CHAPTER XXIII.

Arrival at Eikhams — Native Dogs ; cruelly treated — -Jonker Afrikaner — The Author visits the Red Nation ; The bad Repute of these People — The Author attacked by Ophthalmia — The Embryo Locust — The ' Flying ' Locust ; its Devastations — The Locust Bird — Arrival at Rehoboth ; The Place described . . 284—294

CHAPTER XXIV.

Return to Eikhams — Ugly Fall — Splendid Landscape — Jonker's Delinquencies — How to manage the Natives — The Ondara — It kills a Man — How his Comrade avenges him — Medical Properties of the Ondara — The Cockatrice — The Cobra-di-capella — The Puff- Adder — The Spitting Snake — The Black Snake — Few Deaths caused by Snakes — Antidotes for Snake Bites — Return to Rehoboth 295 — 307

CHAPTER XXV.

The Author's Tent takes Fire — He loses everything but his Papers He is laid on a Bed of Sickness — Want of Medicine, &c. — Reflections — Whole Villages infected with Fever — Abundance of Game — Extraordinary Shot at an Ostrich — A Lion breakfasts on his Wife Wonderful Shooting Star — Remarkable Mirage — Game and Lions Plentiful — The Ebony Tree — Arrival at Bethany, a Missionary Station — The Trouble of a large Herd of Cattle — A thirsty Man's CONTENTS. XV Cogitation — Curious Superstition — The Damara Cattle described — People who live entirely without Water — Cross the Orange River —Sterile Country 308—321

CHAPTER XXVI.

Great Namaqua-land — Its Boundaries and Extent — Its Rivers — Nature of the Country — Vegetation and Climate — Geological Structure — Minerals — 'Topnaars' and 'Oerlams' — Houses — Mythology and Religion — Tumuli — Wonderful Rock — Curious Legend of the Hare — Coming of Age — The Witch-Doctor — Amulets — Superstitions — A Namaqua's Notion of the Sun — Marriage — Polygamy — Children — Barbarous Practice — Longevity — Singular Customs — Ornaments — Tattooing — Arms — Idle Habits — Fond of Amusements — Music and Dancing — Spirits — Mead— Domestic Animals . . 322 — 336

CHAPTER XXVII.

Leave the Orange River — Arrival at Komaggas — Gardening and Agriculture — The Author starts alone for the Cape — Colony Horses — Enmity of the Boers to 'Britishers' — Dutch Salutation — The Author must have been at Timbuctoo, whether or no — He arrives at Cape- Town — Cuts a sorry Figure — Is runaway with — A Feast of Oranges — Ghost Stories — Cattle Auction — Hans and John Allen proceed to Australia — Preparations for Journey to the Ngami — Departure from tbe Cape ..... 337 — 351 CHAPTER XXVHI. Arrival at Walfisch Bay — Atrocities of the Namaquas — Mr. Hahn — His Philanthropy — Author departs for Richterfeldt — Shoots a Lion — Lions unusually numerous — Piet's Performances with Lions — The Lion a Church-goer — Barmen — Eikhams — Kamapyu's mad Doings and Consequences thereof — Kamapyu is wounded by other Shafts than Cupid's — Author visits Cornelius, where he meets Amral and a Party of Griqua Elephant Hunters — Reaches Rehoboth — Tan's Mountain — Copper Ore — Jonathan Afrika — A Lion sups on a Goat — A Lion besieges the Cattle . . . 352 — 364

CHAPTER XXIX.

Dispatch Cattle to the Cape — Terrible Thunder-Storm — Trees struck by Lightning — The Nosop River — A Comet — The Author nearly poisoned — Some of the Men abscond ; they return to their Duty — Babel-like Confusion of Tongues — Game abundant — Author shoots CONTENTS. i a Giraffe — Meet Bushmen — Unsuccessful Elephant Hunt — Suffer !/ ings from Hunger — Tunobis — Game scarce — Author and Steed entrapped — Pit-falls — The Men turn sulky — Preparations for Departure from Tunobis — Vicious Pack-Oxen — Consequences of excessive Fatigue — The Jackal's Handy-Work — Tracks of Elephants — More Pit-falls — Loss of the Anglo-Saxon Lion and the Swedish Cross — Reach Ghanze ...... 365 — 382

CHAPTER XXX.

Ghanze — Spotted Hyæna — The Rhinoceros — Where found — Several Species — Description of Rhinoceros — Size — Appearance — Age — Strength — Speed — Food — Water— The Young — Affection — Senses — Disposition — Gregarious Habits — Indolence — Domestication — Flesh — Horns— The Chase — Mr. Oswell's Adventures with Rhinoceroses — A Crotchet — Where to aim at the Rhinoceros — Does not bleed externally when wounded — Great numbers slain annually . 383 — 401

CHAPTER XXXI.

Departure from GhanzS — Nectar in the Desert — Difficulty in finding Water — -Arrive at Abeghan— Unsuccessful Chase — A ' Charm ' — How to make the undrinkable drinkable — An Elephant wounded and killed— Bold and courageous Dog — Kobis — Author seized with a singular Malady — Messengers dispatched to the Chief of the Lake Ngami — A large Troop of Elephants — Author kills a huge Male — Lions and Giraffe — Author's hair-breadth Escapes : from a Black Rhinoceros ; from a White Rhinoceros ; from Two Troops of Elephants—he shoots a Couple of his Adversaries — Where to aim at an Elephant 402 — 417

CHAPTER XXXII.

Timbo's Return from the Lake ; his Logic ; he takes the Law in his own Hands — Calf of Author's Leg goes Astray — A Troop of Elephants — Author is charged by one of them, and narrowly escapes Death — He shoots a White Rhinoceros — He disables a Black Rhinoceros — He is charged and desperately bruised by the latter — He saves the Life of his Attendant, Kamapyu — Author agaiu charged by the Rhinoceros, and escapes Destruction only by the opportune Death of his Antagonist — Reflections — He starts for the Ngami . 418 — 427 CHAPTER XXXHI. The Author starts for Kobis — Meets Bechuanas — False Report — Wonderful Race of Men — The Baobob Tree — The Ngami — First Impressions CONTENTS. XVII of the Lake — Reflections — Experiences some Disappointment — Reaches the Zouga River and encamps near it — Interview with Chief Lecholetebe — Information refused — Immoderate Laughter — Presents to the Chief — His Covetousness — His Cruelty — Formidable Diffi culties — Author permitted to proceed Northwards . 428 — 439

CHAPTER XXXIV.

The Ngami — When discovered — Its various Names — Its Size and Form — Great Changes in its Waters — Singular Phenomenon — The Teoge River — The Zouga River— The Mukura Mukovanja River — Animals — Birds — Crocodiles — Serpents — Fish . . 440 — 452

CHAPTER XXXV.

The Batoana — Government — Eloquence — Language — Mythology — Religion — Superstition — The Rain-maker — Polygamy — Circumcision — Burial — Disposition of the Bechuanas — Thievish Propensities — Dress — Great Snuff-takers — Smoking — Occupations — Agriculture — Commerce — Hunting and Fishing . . . 453 — 473

CHAPTER XXXVI.

Departure for Libebe — The Canoe — The Lake — Reach the Teoge — Adventure with a Lech6 — Luxurious Vegetation — Exuberance of Animal Life — Buffaloes — The Koodoo — His Haunts — Pace — Food — Flesh — Hide — Disposition — Gregarious Habits — The Chase. 474—487 CHAPTER XXXVH. Tsetse Fly — Confined to particular Spots — its Size — Its Destructiveness — Fatal to domestic Animals — Symptoms in tbe Ox when bitten by the Tsetse 488—491 CHAPTER XXXVHI. The Crocodile — An Englishman killed by one of these Monsters — The Omoroanga Vavarra River — Hardships — Beautiful Scenery — Lecholetebe's Treachery— Tbe Reed-ferry . . . 492—497