Narrative of an exploring Voyage up the Rivers Kwóra and Bínue-commonly known as the Niger and Tsádda-in 1854. With a map, etc

Front matter

i NARRATIVE or au EXPLORING VOYAGE. THE " PLEIAD " EXPLORING VESSEL, BUILT BY MESSRS. LAIRD. NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE UP THE RIVERS KWO'RA AND BINUE (COMMONLY KNOWN AS THE NIGER AND TSlDDA) IN 1854. WITH A MAP AND APPENDICES. PUBLISHED WITH THE SANCTION OF HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT. bl' WILLIAM BALEOUR BAIKIE, M.D.R.N., F.U.G.S., F.S.A. SCOT., ETC. IN COMMAND OF THE EXPEDITION, PRINCE TSH.CKUMA. LONDON : JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET 1856. LONDON : BRADDUEY AND EVANS, PRINTERS, WIIITEF RIARS.

Preface

The following " Narrative," which has been considerably delayed by various unlooked-for inter ruptions, and which has been compiled during leisure intervals snatched from professional and other pur suits, is simply a record of the observations and results of the exploring expedition up the rivers Kwdra and Binue in 1854. In addition to what came actually under our notice, I have endeavoured to record any interesting or useful information obtained regarding the little known regions of Central Africa. In an Appendix will be found various tables, lists, and documents, not of general interest, and therefore excluded from the body of the work, but at hand to be referred to by those concerned in such topics. I have been careful to note any tradi tions regarding the early history of the different tribes, as though at present they are of comparatively

PREFACE.

. VIII little value, the time will come when these apparently trifling stories will be sought after with as much avidity, as the historical antiquary of our own country eagerly culls any legends or tales relating to those ages when our Teutonic or Keltic progenitors, barbarous and unlettered, were not a whit more advanced than many of the Ethiopian races of the present day. All native proper names throughout the volume have been written in conformity with the alphabet printed in the Appendix, every letter being sounded, and the vowels having the powers given to them in Italian. To prevent confusion the only mark employed has been simply one over the accented syllable. In computing distances two very different reckon ings are employed. One is the long day's journey, from sunrise to sunset, or from fifteen to twenty-five miles, twenty being an average, equal to about fifteen or sixteen miles made good on horizontal space.

The other is the short day's journey, from sunrise to about noon, or from eight to twelve or fourteen miles, ten being perhaps the nearest average, which may represent eight miles of actual progress.

PREFACE.

. IX I have felt obliged often to be more personal than I could have desired, and to allude to disputes and to differences over which I would gladly have thrown a veil ; but as these matters have lately been made the subject of judicial proceedings, I have mentioned them, partly in my own defence, partly to show why the success of the Expedition was not more complete than it was, and also that future exploring parties might be aware of and so avoid the various stumbling-blocks which so often tended to impede our progress. Two works have already appeared regarding our Voyage. One, proceeding from a most estimable individual, is in the form of a short journal, referring more especially to the prospects for missionary efforts, while the other seems rather to relate the private opinions and individual experiences of a member of the party, than to contain an account of the Expedition.

It is hoped that the present one, which aims at being more detailed than its predecessors, will satisfy any anxiety which may be felt about the once dreaded " Niger," or con cerning the rude natives around; and if it serves in any degree to excite a warmer feeling towards

PREFACE.

. X the ill-treated African, to claim a small degree of attention for rich but neglected regions, or to stimulate further enquiries and explorations, the writer will consider his labours not to have been altogether in vain. Haslar Hospital, 2Gth May, 1856. taoc TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Chapter I

INTEODrCTOKT. Theories regarding the course of the Kwdra — African explorers — Dr. Earth's discovery of the Upper Binue — The " Pleiad " — Mr. Beecroft 1—6

Chapter II. The Yotage Out

Departure from Plymouth — Bay of Biscay — Towing nets — Oceanic captures — Funchal — Quarantine — Santa Cruz — Torch Fishing — Peak of Teneriffe — North East Trades — Flying-fishes — Petrels — Cape de Verde — Gorde— "Wolofs — Bathurst — Tornado — Sierra Leone — Inhabitants — The " Pleiad " — Monrovia — Southern Cross — Cape Coast Castle — A marriage — Mr. Beecroft's death — Akr_ — Lagos — Surf — Sharks — Mr. Crowther — Old KaJabdr — Cameroon — Fernando Po — New arrangements — Mr. May — Arrival of the "Pleiad" — Dr. Ble.k — Preparations 7—30

Chapter III. The Launch Of Tiie Expedition

Leave Clarence — Nun Mouth — Sea on the bar — Repairs — Alburkah Islands — Mangroves — Richard's Creek — Sunday Island — Oru Villages — Angidma —Again aground — Wari branch— Abd — Aliheli — ■ Tshukuma — ■ Visits — Presents — Natives alarmed — Ladies' ornaments —Kola Nuts 31 — TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAGE

Chapter IV. I'gbo And

IGA'fiA. Bullock Island— Ossamard — Hippopotami — Onitshd and Asaba — Sandbank — Ada-Mugu — Round huts — Iddd cliffs — A'boko's party — Iddd politics — Camp on English Island — Court of the Attd — Reception ceremonies — Visitors — Igara— Language — Edo — Ivory — Volcanic blocks — Bird-Rock — Okiri — Moonlight at Irdko — Mounts Franklin and Crozier — Igbdgbe — A'ma A'boko — The Confluence — The " Dark Water " — Odokodo — Hdusa — Binue — Adamawa — Model-farm — Sacrifice-Rock — Visit 'to Mount Pdte — Panorama — Trade— Despatches — Baobabs — O'gbe's jug. — White Ants' nests — Leave the Confluence — A'tipo — Purchase wood — A'ma-A'boko's messengers — Harriet Island — Lander's Seat — Mount Vidal — Oldfield Range — Yimahd — I'gbira — Panda— Fuldtas — Plague of Flies — Kdnde — Sets of observations — Continuance of health — Dispute with a Crocodile — A'batsho — Panda refugees — Difficulties — Soundings — Consultation — Changes in the Ministry .... . 51 — 93

Chapter V. The Neav Administbation

Early start — Oif Erfiko — Ddgbo — Admiralty Archipelago — Doma Hills — A'kpoko — Royal Interview — Sir John Richardson's Islands — Isabella Island — -Troublesome Navigation — O'jogo — Two White Strangers? — Embassy to Ke_na— Wood-cutting — Mltshi — Rejected friendship — Mr. May alarms the Court — Deputations — Doma Cookery — New Lights — Fresh Plans — Wooden Leg— Diima History — O'jogo Habits — Iron Money — Juvenile Game — False Gavial — Trade canoe sent to the Confluence— Dearth iu the Sugar-Market R6gan-K6to — Clarendon Island — Mount Beecroft — Washingtoa Island — Ellesmere Range —Mounts Latham and Christison — Mount Adams — Mount Trd nabie —Mount Traill — Nu— Kororofa — Terror of the Natives — Martial Meeting— Alarm of Kruboys — Gitndiko — Ptilbe— Djiiku — Zhibu — Grand Procession — Distinguished Reception — Moslemiu — Filro — Abundance of Ivory . . . 04 — 131 CHAPTER, VI.

THE UITEE bi'nue. Mount Humboldt— Temporary Sails — Evening Meeting with Hippopotami—Mount Forbes — Albemarle Range — Akdm — Strong Current — Green Wood — Diroction of Tornadoes — Attack on a huge tree —Interruption by a Leopard— Mosquitoes— Fumbina Mountains— TABLE OF CONTENTS. XIII PAGE Zhiru — Rise of the River — Zoological Treasures — Sdraki 'n Hdusa — Cut Wood under difficulties — An Embassy Despatched — Gurowa — Muri Mountains — Bak 'n Diitshi — Wa — Mr. Crowther's Return — The Sultan's Letter — Start for Hamaruwa — Arrival — Congratulations — Supper — Heavy Dew — Rain — Pulbe — Dress and Ornaments — Henna — Geographical Examination — Written Charms — The Sultan's Palace — Grand Interview — Reciprocity of Sentiment — Attired in Tobes — Return — March in Detachments — Arboreal Night Quarters — Feline Attendants and Feathered Companions — Astronomical Studies — Bad Roads — Breakfast at Wuzu — Trade — Eccentric Rain bow — Scurvy — Struck by Lightning — Boat Cruise — Tshomo — Hunting Relics — Bdibai — Surprise an Elephant — Flooded Banks — Sunset at Ldu — Mount Laird — Pleiad Island — Wild Hunters — River Horses — Djin — Cause a Sensation — Too Pressing Attentions — Night-melodies — Fishing Station — Fresh Breeze — Mountainous Country — Mount Gabriel — Dulti — Village Tinder Water — Astonish ment of the Natives — People become curious — Ruse de Guerre — Rapid Retreat — Dulti Regatta — Terror of the Krumen — The Race Won 135—200

Chapter VII. The Keturn

Apology for Dulti — " Ne plus ultra " — Anticipated Cannibalism — Djfn again — Fluviatile bo-peep ! — Bdndawa — Magnificent Thunder-storm — Fortunate Position — Morning Exploit — Mount Eleanor — "Pleiad" again Missing — Farewell toGurowa — Take Stock — Regrets — Resume the Survey — Fan Palms — River still Rising — Devious Channels — Submerged Country — Genuine Exploring Trip — No Land in Sight — Dead Lioness — Signs of a Deluge — Amphibious Aborigines'! — Regain the River — "Dere de SLip" — "Pleiad" hard and fast — Successful efforts — Biiutshi SUver — " Kantai " — Prices of Slaves and of Horses — Scurvy Continues — Measures — Causes . . . 201 — 222

Chapter VIII. Fuktheb Disappointments

Zhibu— King surly— The Monarch bearded in his Hall— Diplomacy- Prevented from visiting Wukdri— The Galadima— Sdraki 'n Dqki— River falling— Polypterus— Crowther Island— Gdndiko— Varieties of Corn — Kigelia — A'nyishi — Rapid Current — Route to Wukdri — Lead-ore— Mutshi— Rdgan-Koto— Onuse— Good Fuel— Irihu— O'jogo— TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAGE Pick up the Messengers— No Dr. Barth— Zuri troublesome—Recom pence to O'rabo— Suspected Slave — Visit from King of A'kpoko — White Cock — Ddgbo — Extreme Heat — Zdzo — Bloodthirsty Mosquitoes — Eruko— Palm-nut Oil— Magnificent Palisade—Archi tectural Remains — Huge Pipes — Alihdli's Friend — Pulbe Attack — Mr. May visits Ikdreku — A'batsho — Detection and Ransom of a Slave Boy — Amardn — Hear of our Canoe — Sun's Meridian Altitude — Yimahd— Call on the new King— Blacksmith's Forge — I'gbira History — Redeeming Captives — Monkey Bread-fruit — " Big-man of O'gba "—Duck Islands 223-261

Chapter IX. The Confluence

Changes — Sickness in the Canoe — A'ma-A'boko rather cool — Explanations — Nupe — Kakduda — Bdsa — Bonu — Ishdbe — Brisk Trade — Large Market — Zuri's felonious attempt — Grand " palaver " at the Palace — Anti-slavery Lecture — Mr. May's Ascent of Mount Pdte — ■ Huge yams — Agricultural implements — Gigantic Baobab — Arabic MSS. — Stamboul — Symbolical letter — Departure — Pyrotechnic phenomenon — Beaufort Island — Ehimodina and Okeyin — -More ivory — I'gbira-Shima — Iddd — Threatened Tornado — Alihdli's story ■ — Promised bullock — Wild festival — Iddd declining — Igdra traditions — I'gbo cloth — Musical band — Ado river — A'da-mugu — Musket3 — Signs of confidence — Commercial transactions — A'ra mats— Utd 265—292

Chapter X

i'gbo. Iudm — Nsugbe — Prices of muskets — Asabd — Acoustic instruments — Palm wine — Warrior's tokens — Onitshd — E'lugu — Ossamard — Isudma — Lilliputian canoes — Muddy town — Ndoni — Abd — Simon Jonas — Stray tea-chest — Mr. Carr's murder — Ddsaba's march — Alihdli paid off — Visit from Aje and most of the royal family — Crowded decks — Animated discussion — Shower bath — Health improving — Provisions nearly consumed — Farewell to Aje — Malaghetta pepper — I'gbo divisions— Ttshi or Mbritshi — A'ro — SUrino of Tshuku — Religion — Orisa — Rites — Dju-dju trees — Kamdllo — Igwikdlla — Funeral ceremonies— I'gbo week — Food — Price of slaves— Agbdri— Pilgrim from A'ro — Recognition of a mosquito— Mist among tho trees— Angidma— Sickly stench— Buy TABLE OF CONTENTS. XV wood— Advise the King— Doctor's shop— Attack on Lander— PA°E Anchor off Baracoon Point— Prepare for sea— Mr. May's visit to the Brass river— Distressed British subjects— Nimbe— Kwdra hygiene— Quinine 293-328

Chapter XI. Feenando Po

Palm Point— No breakers— Crossing the Bar— Three passages— Meet a schooner— First news— Round Cape Bullen— Fire a salute— Hear of the Battle of Alma— Kruboys' rejoicings— Leave the " Pleiad " King Peppel— Bonny news— New Kalabdr— Rio Formoso— Bini— Oedo— Agdto— Belzoni's papers— Sdbo— Tshdkeri — Ijebiis— Jdmen— Salt-wood — Baidn— Bdti— Ydla— Value of Fernando Po— Invasion of Spanish priests 329—319

Chapter XII. The Voyage Home

Leave Clarence — Aground in the Cameroons — Duke Town — Mr. Anderson — E'fik — Kwd — Mbrukim — Ordeal bean — Captain Lewis — Kantoro — Okuloma — King Dappa — Cannibalism — Trust system — Commercial association — Different modes of reckoning — Disturbances at Bonny — Mr. Crowther's return to Ydruba — Joined by the Bishop and Archdeacon — Abadayigi — Ashanti— Conversation with Bishop Vidal — Mitshi boy — Akrd — Cape Coast Castle — Governor Hill — Cape Palmas — Kru country — Monrovia — Illness and death of the Bishop — Sad Christmas — Water-spout — Sierra Leone — Repairs — Interviews with natives — Coffee — Exports — Vexatious regulations — Bathurst official — Gor.e — Snowclad Peak of Teneriffe — Trophies in the Cathedral at Santa Cruz — Rough weather — Funchal— Gale of wind— Arrival at Plymouth . . . .350—384

Chapter XIII. Conclusion

Results of the voyage— Slave trade— African squadron — Piracy— Pulo alliance, — Further expeditions — African languages — Late travellers— Incentives to renewed exertions .... 385—397 TABLE OF CONTENTS. XVI PAGE Appendix A. — Description of the " Pleiad " — Admiralty Instructions — Mr. Laird's Instructions — Correspondence —Native African Treaty 399 Appendix B. — Various Forms of Currency .... 416 — 417 Appendix C— Philological . . . ... . . . 417—425 Appendix D.— Geographical 425—450 Appendix E.— Ethnological 450 — 452 Appendix F.— Natural History 452 Appendix G.— Medical 452—455 Appendix H.— Commercial 455— 45G ILLUSTRATIONS. View op the " Pleiad " Frontispiece. Prince Tshukuma On Title-page. Plans of the " Pleiad " To face p. 399. Map At the end. NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE.

Chapter I. Introductory

From the days of Herodotus to very recent times the theories which have been brought forward regarding the course and distribution of the Kwora, or Niger, have been alike numerous and varied. Geographers, both ancient and modern, have exerted their utmost ingenuity in endeavouring to solve the mystery ; and, according as they believed in the westward or eastward course of the river, ranged themselves into two parties, the one pointing to the Senegal and the Gambia as the mouths of this mighty stream, while the other either conducted it through Lake Tsad to join the Nile, or else led it by a long and dreary route to be identified with the Congo. It certainly appears singular that, until a comparatively recent date, no one even hinted at its real termination. The numerous large bodies of B [CHAP. I. 2 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. fresh water falling into the bights of Benin and Biafra have for long been familiarly known, yet their source was never enquired after ; and although very slight consideration would have shown that, evidently closely connected as all these are, they must flow from some great river in the interior, it was not until 1808, that Reichard, judging from the vast amount of alluvial deposits, first suggested the Rio Formoso as the outlet of the Kwora, an idea since proved to be partially true.

Major Laing and Captain Clapperton also believed in the discharge of its wraters into the Bight of Benin, the former selecting the Rio Volta for the purpose, while the latter hypothesised an opening to the eastward of Lagos. But by no one was the enquiry pursued more zealously or more shrewdly than by Mr. Macqueen, who, having collected a vast amount of evidence on the subject, recommended, in 1829, a careful examination of the rivers between the Rio Formoso and Old Kalabar. It must have been highly gratifying to this veteran geographer, whose knowledge of Central Africa is probably unsurpassed, to find only two years afterwards his supposition verified by the splendid exploit of the Landers, who, at the expense of so much risk and suffering, navigated the Kwora from Yauri to the sea, thereby proving the existence of an available water communication with the heart of the African continent.

Their discovery was quickly seized on in England, and the enterprise of Liverpool merchants speedily fitted out a small chap, i.] INTRODUCTORY. 3 expedition for commercial and geographical purposes. This attempt, chiefly from climacteric causes, ended unfortunately : a spirited and graphic account of its discoveries and its disasters was published by two of the survivors, Mr. Macgregor Laird and Mr. Oldfield, while their companion, Captain (then Lieutenant) W. Allen, surveyed and compiled a chart of their adven turous route, which extended along the main stream as far as Rabba, and likewise upwards of eighty miles up a previously unknown large affluent, the Tsadda. The misfortunes met with, by these pioneers did not afford much encouragement for further trials, and no attempt of any magnitude was made until 1841, when the Government fitted out three steamers, specially built for the purpose.

This expedition was intended to carry out, besides extended research, various philanthropic but ill-matured schemes. Its ill success, with its fearful amount of sickness and loss of life, still fresh in our memories, tended greatly to confirm the conviction of the deadly nature of the climate. The Kwora was also ascended by the late Mr. Beecroft, in one of the steamers of the West African Company, in 1836, and again by the same gentleman in the " Æthiope," a steam vessel belonging to Mr. Jamie son of Liverpool, in 1840 and in 1845, on one of which occasions he entered and explored the branch running by Wari. Such is a brief outline of the previous efforts to investigate and explore this river, and though induce- B [chap. I- 4 NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. ments to perseverance were far from wanting, still no one, reflecting on the great probable sacrifice of European life, cared about taking the responsibflity of advising another attempt.

But in 1852 the question was again started, in consequence of intelligence received from Dr. Barth, who, the sole but still un daunted survivor of a party which had two years before crossed the Great Desert, had boldly journeyed to the southward, to endeavour to reach the province of Adamawa. On the 18th of June, 1851, he crossed a large stream, named the Binue, which, from the information he received from the natives, he con jectured to be the upper part of the river hitherto known to Europeans as the Tsadda. To ascertain this point, the present expedition was principally destined, the two objects specially mentioned in the Admiralty instructions being, first to explore the river Tsadda from Dagbo, the point reached by Allen and Oldfield in 1833, as far to the eastward as possible : secondly, to endeavour to " meet and afford assistance " to Drs.

Barth and Vogel. To promote these designs, the Admiralty entered into a contract with Mr. Macgregor Laird, to build and equip a suitable vessel. Mr. Laird, having, as already mentioned, been himself up the Kwora, and having always been closely connected with African trade, and taken a most lively interest in everything tending to improve or benefit this region, was on these accounts, as well as on that of his great general experience and foresight, the very person best suited for planning and CHAP. I.] INTRODUCTORY. 5 giving effect to such an undertaking. Accordingly an iron screw schooner was built at Birkenhead, in the yard of Mr. John Laird, and, on being launched, received the name of the " Pleiad." She was of 260 tons measurement, 100 feet in length, with 24 feet beam, and her engine was of 60 horse-power.

Her draught of water when laden was 7 feet, or 6 feet when in ordinary trim. A sailing-master, surgeon, officers, and crew were provided for her by Mr. Laird, and it was arranged that she should be sent to Fernando Po, where the officers appointed by government should join. The peculiar features of this expedition were, first, the employment of as few white men as possible ; secondly, entering and ascending the river with the rising waters, or during the rainy season ; and lastly, it was anticipated that the use of quinine, as a prophylactic or preventive, would enable the Europeans to withstand the influence of the climate. Mr. Laird, being per mitted by his agreement with the Admiralty to trade with the natives whenever it was practicable, provided a well-assorted cargo, and sent out persons specially to attend to this branch.

The " Pleiad " having made a very satisfactory trial trip across the Irish Channel, finally took her departure from Dublin on the 20th of May, 1854. The conduct of the expedition was entrusted to Mr. Beecroft, Her Majesty's Consul at Fernando Po, than whom no one had more experience of African exploration, or could be in all respects better adapted I. for such a responsible post. I was appointed medical officer and naturalist, and was to have been accom panied by another assistant-surgeon, Mr. J. W. D. Brown, but on the breaking out of the war, his services were required in the Baltic. Subsequently it was arranged that Dr. W. Bleek, a German ethnologist, who had paid much attention to African philology, should proceed with me ; and having received our instructions, and being amply provided with instruments and other appliances by the Hydro graphical Office, we hurried our preparations for leaving England by the African mad packet.

Chapter II. The Voyage Out

Accompanied by Dr. Bleek and a young man whom I took with me as zoological assistant, I left Plymouth by the " Forerunner " packet on the 24th of May, 1854, and with moderate weather, and a tolerably fair wind, soon crossed the Channel, and reached the Bay of Biscay. The " Forerunner " being a very fast screw vessel, we made rapid pro gress, while from our complement of passengers being full, our time on board passed away very agreeably. I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of several " Africans," * among whom was Mr. Louis Fraser, one of the survivors of the expedition in 1841. On two occasions, tempted by the smoothness of the water, I threw my towing-nets overboard, hoping to waylay some rare pelagian voyager, but from the rate at which we were going, from eight to nine knots, nearly lost all my gear.

One evening, when about a hundred miles to the northward of Madeira, some thing went wrong with the machinery, to repair which * A name familiarly given to all engaged in African trade, or who have resided much on the west coast of Africa. lithe engines had to be stopped for some hours. The wind being very light, we did not go under sail more than two knots, so I remained up most of the night with my towing-net, in expectation of intercepting some crepuscular pteropod or other oceanic resident, but only succeeded in capturing some minute tuni caries and acalephs. Many of the latter were highly phosphorescent, so much so, that by holding three or four near my watch, I was enabled to see the houf . Herds of sportive porpoises playing around us clearly intimated that we were approaching warmer latitudes, and, at length, on the morning of the 30th, we came in sight of Porto Santo, and shortly afterwards of Madeira.

By the forenoon, after a quick passage of less than six days, we were at anchor in Funchal roads, admiring the steep acclivities and ravines so beautifully clad with verdure, and wondering at the strange contrast between the bright sea and sunny scenes near us, with the dark clouds settling over the top of the island, and frowning ominously upon us. No sooner was the anchor down than all the passengers, many of whom had never previously per formed such a lengthened sea-voyage, or been so long out of sight of land, prepared for an excursion on shore, and anxiously waited for the moment when the vessel should be admitted to pratique. But to our surprise and dismay, the health-boat had no sooner reached alongside, than we found ourselves convicted of gross ignorance, and received important information on a topic, which we had neglected enquiring into before leaving England.

This was, that cholera existed in Glasgow, and therefore the sanitary magnates, considering that our transit across twelve hundred miles of the Atlantic had been too rapid to allow us to have got rid of the foul infection, considerately forbade our leaving the ship, and placed us in quarantine. Vain were remonstrances, pro tests, entreaties ; the authorities had the latest and most accurate intelligence, and, moreover, they had all the power on their side. Consequently, the one passenger for Funchal was transferred, under a strict guard, to the miserable Lazarretto, and the ship was surrounded by boats bearing villanous yellow flags. Coal-barges came alongside, and commenced discharging their cargo ; boats with articles for sale crowded around, and speedily a brisk traffic sprung up. Bunches of cherries were speedily bought up at sixpence each ; and baskets, mats, and straw hats were in great demand.

Our steward speculated largely in these latter, for which he gave a shilling a-piece, intending to sell them down the coast at half-a-crown, or more if possible. In making pur chases when in quarantine, buyers can only examine an article by sight, as no sooner do they touch it, than whether they like it or not, they must keep it, — ay, and pay well for it too. It is a singular example of the foresight of the original framers of quarantine law, that money can always be easily passed from the affected to the non-affected party. Thus, while indi viduals and property of all descriptions must undergo long detention, and purifications by fumigations, steaming baths, &c, the contagious property of coin is held to be immediately destroyed by simply passing it through water ; and so when a purchase has been effected, the seller concludes by holding up a small cup or other vessel, containing water, into which the money is allowed to drop ; and this custom prevafls irrespective of country, whether the port be Portu guese, Spanish, Italian, Greek, or Turkish.

But more seriously speaking, these quarantine absurdities are made extremely vexatious, as well as expensive to those who suffer from them. In the present instance, not to mention merely the inconvenience, the owners of the packet had to pay for the keep of the coal-heavers for some eight or ten days after our departure, — an outlay which would not be grumbled at were there even a shadow of a reason alleged, but most annoying and unjust when enforced in this arbitrary and needless manner. Considering how much Madeira depends for its prosperity on English trade, the Portuguese, one would suppose, ought to be rather more considerate. Leaving Madeira about sunset, we sighted Teneriffe next afternoon, and about eleven at night anchored off Santa Cruz. The little bay was at this time lighted up by fishing-boats, which at night make use of large flaming torches, to attract the fish.

The water here being very deep, we had to anchor not far from the shore, and although we were in quarantine, a mare belonging to a relation of the governor's was admitted to pratique, by being made to swim ashore, while the harness was landed without any ceremony. Teneriffe, after Madeira, looks barren and arid ; the ravines and the sides of the mountains being com paratively unclad with vegetation, and the whole country around having a more sun-dried appearance. Santa Cruz itself stands on level ground along the shore; and, from the anchorage, seems a compact and regular town, the most conspicuous building being the cathedral, the Iglesia de la Concepcion. Along the sides of the steep acclivities around, stone parapets have been raised, and the spaces between these and the face of the mountain being filled with soil, level patches have been formed, fitted for cultivation, while it gives to the hills the general appearance of a succession of terraces.

Here we looked in vain for the celebrated Peak, but could distinguish nothing amidst the mists and clouds which then enveloped it. But a few hours afterwards we were more fortunate, as, when some fifteen or sixteen miles from the land, the sky cleared up and afforded us a magnificent prospect. We were far enough off to have a good outline view of the entire island, and along its steep hiUs the lights and shadows were beautifully apparent through the meUow atmosphere of a fine afternoon, while, towering high towards the heavens, the Peak raised its lofty head, the summit showing in clear relief against the blue sky, and half way down a solitary stratum of cloud, partially encir cling the mountain, gave additional effect to the scene. NARRATIVE OF AN EXPLORING VOYAGE. [chap. ii. After leaving Teneriffe we ran towards the coast of Africa, with the N.E. trades, carrying with us delightful weather.

Shoals of flying-fishes surrounded us, amusing us with their glittering flights. Rising in various numbers, from half-a-dozen to fifty or sixty at a time, they pursued courses of different lengths, but seldom exceeding eighty or a hundred yards. Many flew on board of us, where they were of course speedily captured, and finally transferred to the cook ; one, in its heedless course, struck a lady passenger, who was walking on the poop, with such force as nearly to throw her down. These fish generally rise from the surface with the wind either a-head or a-beam, but once up they can turn in different directions, though not at a sharp angle. Petrels, too, now began to follow in our wake, skimming along the surface, or, more rarely, resting for a moment on the crest of a wave ; active little creatures, busily engaged in picking up small objects.