The Okavango River: a narrative of travel, exploration, and adventure ... With numerous illustrations

Front matter

THE OKAVANGO EIVEE. LONDON PRl.rCD BY SPOTTISWOODB AND '0. N EW-£TJL__EXJ33U AB E THE AFRICAN ELEPHANT. f EE ©KA¥AI_I(&© KUVER: .___ ©IF T__M_E_LJIPl@___\lT_©_]^i.E)^W_E__¥nj[|E0 BY ©G______,ES J©_]K1 /.M ©HASSOM. IL © __" B © I. ' ■ 1UEST Æim MJLACAKT&TT„FUmiÆSWEmSp 13.&KEAT _____iBOROU-G_l STREET THE OKAVANGO RIVEK: A NARRATIVE or TEAVEL, EXPLOEATTON, AND ADVENTUEE. BY CHAELES JOHN ANDERSSON, AUTHOK OP "LAKE NCtAMI." WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. LONDON: HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS, SUCCESSORS TO HENRY COLBURN, 13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1861. The right os Translation is reserved. PEEFACE. The traveber in Africa bad formerly a very simple task to perform when he came before the pubbc to give an account of bis adventurous inroads into that most repulsive and least accessible quarter of the globe.

Readers were then satisfied with a few details of mere discovery ; with a few latitudes and longitudes as correctly set down as might be. At present they demand much more. He is now ex pected to be competently versed in many sciences, and in much knowledge out of the beat of ordinary accomplishment. He is supposed to understand meteorology, hygrometry, and hydrogeny ; to col lect geological specimens, to gather political and coimnercial information, to advance the infant study of ethnology, to sketch, to write a copious journal, to shoot and stuff birds and beasts, to

Preface

. VIII collect grammars and vocabularies, and frequently to forward long reports to the R.G. S. Now, without pretending to have reached, or to have at all closely approached this standard of an ex plorer's qualifications, I have certainly touched, in the following pages, on several of tbe topics just enumerated. My humbler object, however, has been merely, by a plain narrative of my adventures, accompanied by the remarks they have suggested, so to mingle information with amusement as to make a pleasant and somewhat instructive book. Five years have now elapsed since my former work on South Africa was published. I have since then become much better acquainted with that country than I was at that time. The denizens of its wilds and deserts have especially, as a sports man, engaged my attention, and I think the parts of this volume devoted to my hunting excursions will be found particularly interesting and exciting.

Africa, in fact, may be said, even up to the present day, to be principally inhabited by wild beasts. Its savage human natives only afford a study of rational life on so low a scale as hardly to justify the epithet I have just made use of; whereas one may, in the regions I have frequented, luxuriate in the contemplation of pure animal existence in its

PREFACE.

. IX fubest and freest developments. To do so has been to me a great source of enjoyment. Living •pictures of the feræ naturœ in multitudes, in endless variety, oftentimes, too, of beauty and of happiness, have a wonderful attraction to the reasoning intebect looking down upon them, — yet mightily humbled by its sense of superiority ! — In brief, Africa is a vast zoological garden, and a vast hunting field at the same time. Let us visit it, reader, and let us hunt over it together. Our drier explorations, and our companionship through them, will be ab the pleasanter for this recreation. A word more before I conclude. As I have found it currently believed, both on the Continent and at home, that the Royal Geographical Society or that the British Government has paid the costs of my several explorations in the interior of Africa, I must, in justice to myself, contradict this state ment in the most unqualified manner.

The ex penses of ab my African expeditions . have been defrayed entirely by myself. In this volume I have seen reason to alter the spelling of a few places mentioned in Lake Ngami. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Project of an Expedition into the Interior with Mr. Green. — Mr. Green's Expedition to Libebe. — Professor Wahlberg killed by an Elephant. — Another Expedition of Mr. Green in search ofthe River Cunene. — Two Rhenish Missionaries, Messrs. Hahn and Rath, join Mr. Green. — Visit to the Ovambo. — Treachery of King Nangoro. — The exploring Party attacked by his Orders by a large Body of Natives. — The Victory of the Europeans. — Six hundred fighting Men beaten by thirteen. — The accidental Discovery of a fresh-water Lake called Onondova. — The further Prosecution of the Expedition renounced. — I determine on resuming it in Person. — Difficulties to be overcome. — Travelling Equipment and Suite. — Particular Objects of the Expedition. — Motives for choosing my Route through Western Damara Land . . . Page 1

Chapter II

Departure. — Leave-taking. — Slow Progress. — Live Stock. — Omaruru River. — Scenery. — Cutting a Way through the Bush. — Escape and Capture of my Horse. — A serious Accident. — A Forest of Trees without Thorns. — A delightful Surprise. — The Damara Parent-tree. — Tracks of Elephants. — Magnificent Range of Hills. — Periodical Watercourse. — A Mountain Gorge. — Difficulty of finding a Route. — The Passage for the Waggon impracticable. — The Waggon smashed to Pieces. — Narrow Escape of the Oxen-driver. — Waggon repaired and reladen. — Route in a new Direction. — Encampment. — Country densely bushed CONTENTS. XII

Chapter III

Another Limestone Range of Hills.— Passage through it at last found. — Clearing a Road through Rocks.— The Waggon like a Ship in a heavy Cross-sea. — The Fountains of Otjidambi.— Traces of human Habitation. — The Ovaherero and the Namaquas. — The Hottentots and Damaras. — Cattle and Sheep stealing. — Guides at a Loss. — Two Natives captured. — One of them forced to become a Guide. — The Natives of a Village flee away in alarm. — A few Presents reconcile some of them to become Guides. — An Accident : a Dog killed instead of a Hyena. — A grand Illumination : Fields on Fire. — A Hurricane. — The Passage of a Defile. — Game rare.— Long Shots.— The Guide escapes.— Several Werfts (Hamlets) and Vleys (Wells). — Scarcity of Water.— Quest of Water. — Kind-heartedness of Damara Women.— No Guides. — No Water, and Country parched and desolate. — One more Attempt to go forward . Page 30

Chapter IV

The Guides lose their Way. — The Lives of the whole Party at Stake. — A Search for Water in all Directions. — In vain. — Necessity of returning without Delay. — Two Men exploring the Country for Water left behind. — The Sufferings of the Men and Animals from Thirst. — Retreat resolved upon. — A grand and appalling Conflagration. — The Magnificence of the Spectacle. — The Cattle one hundred and fifty Hours without a single Drop of Water. — The two Men left behind make their Appearance. — The AVater so long searched for found. — Okaoa reached in Safety. — Ondjuona the favourite Resort of Elephants. — The annual Pilgrimage of these Animals to another Station. — The Damara Mode of Elephant-hunting.— View from the Summit of Okonyeya. — Country surveyed. — A Thunder Storm under Foot . . . .46

Chapter V

A singular Mirage. — Arrival on the Omaruru. — I resolve on crossing over to the Omuramba, via Matako, whilst the Waggon is undergoing a complete Reparation. — Two Lions attack the Dogs. — Wild Beasts abundant. — Lion Man-eaters. — Their stealthy Mode of Attack. — A horrid Dream. — The physical Features of Damara Land. — Granite, Limestone, and Sandstone. — Carboniferous Formations. — Scented and aromatic Plants and Trees. — Scenery. — Mines ........ CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter VI

My travelling Stud.— Game plentiful.— Giraffes, Zebras, Gnus, and Koodoos. — Two Giraffes killed. — Lions, Hyenas, Jackals, and other Beasts of Prey. — Great Numbers of Natives. — Honey in great quantities. — Visitors from the civilised World. — A Night Watch for Game. — Elephants descried. — An Elephant Hunt. — Two Elephants killed. — The Rejoicings of the Damaras on the Prospect of a Gorge. — A Breakfast on an Elephant Foot and a Dish of Honey ....... Page 71

Chapter VII

Night Watches and Day Trackings. — A great English Sportsman, and a great English Traveller's Opinion of Dr. Livingstone. — A Moonlight Ambush. — Living Pictures of Animal Life. — Nature's Menagerie. — Two more Elephants killed. — A Night Assemblage of a large Herd of one hundred and fifty Elephants at a drinking Tank. — The furious Trumpetings of the Herd when fired at.— Female Elephants particularly vicious. — A Cow Elephant-hunt. — The Hunter hunted. — Narrow Escape. — -Following the Spoors of a Herd.— The Emigration of Elephants. — Pater-familias, or General of Division. — An unsatisfactory Shot. — A Tree torn up. — A Picture of Rage and Grandeur . . . . .83

Chapter VIII

A Herd of Camelopards or Giraffes.— One Shot.— A comic Scene.— A Lion wounded.— The Antelope. — The Eland. — The Numerousness of this ruminant Tribe. — The Springbok, its extraordinary Agility. — A Damara trading Caravan destined for Ovambo Land. —Retainers of Afrikander.— I refuse to join the Caravan. — Dearth of Water.— Rejoined by the Waggon.— Start again to the Eastward.— Lion Man-eaters, a Native carried off by one of them. Mr. Green's Narrative. — Lion Chase.— Fragments and Bones of the Native discovered.— Another Visit from a Lion. — Dismay in the Encampment.— Wild Boars.— Dogs no Match for them.— I overtake the Caravan, and determine to accompany it for 98 a while . CONTENTS. XIV

Chapter IX

A Retrospect.— Omanbonde a Sheet of Water. — Rhinoceroses, Hippopotami, and other large Game in Abundance. — A beautiful Landscape.— Elephants numerous. — Fatigues and Dangers of Elephant-hunting.— Hints to Elephant-hunters. — Extreme Thirst. — Extreme Exhaustion. — A Man killed by a Rhinoceros. — A Creeping Stalk of a Rhinoceros. — Attack of a Rhinoceros. — An adventurous Chase. — Discovery of the Man killed. — Accidental Death. — Damara Grave, and Rites of Sepulture. — The Feast after the Funeral. — Lions attack a crippled Rhinoceros . . Page 113

Chapter X

A Troop of Lions. — A Watch by Night. — Wild Animals at a Vley. — A Duel between a Lion and a Lion-hunter. — Dogs and Damaras. — An exciting hunting Scene. — One hundred Damaras in the Field. — Another wounded Lion. — Dinner on Beefsteak auLion, and Hump de Rhinoceros. — Lion's Flesh very palatable. — The Ovambo Caravan still in the Neighbourhood. — The Feeding-time ofthe Ovambos after a Day's successful Sport. — A disgusting Spectacle. — Change of Route. — A Bevy of black Damsels. — Advice about Marriage. — A Road practicable for the Waggon. — News from Europe. — How I dispose of my Ivory. — A Collection of Insects and Birds. — Swifts and Swallows. — Tremendous Storms of Thunder and Lightning. — The peculiar Beauty of the Sunsets .... 126

Chapter XI

The Damara Caravan forbidden by Chipanga, the Successor of Nangoro, to enter Ondonga.— The Ovambo's superstitious Dread of Firearms. — The Party belonging to the Caravan steal the Cattle and Property of the Ovambo. — A Descent made upon the Ovambuenge by the Makololo. — A Guide with a Harem of Wives. — A Battle between two Bushmen Werfts. — Dr. Livingstone's Opinion that Bushmen never quarrel about Women. — A Native Woman wounded by poisoned Arrows. — I endeavour to capture the Offenders. — Two of their Party made Prisoners. — Not guilty. — Effect their Escape . . . . . ,139 CONTENTS. XV

Chapter XII

The Rate of Absorption and Evaporation of Moisture in the dry Season. — The Return of the Party sent to Otjimbingue. — Preparations for a fresh Start. — We make for the Omuramba U'Ovambo. — Reasons for this Choice.— Bid Farewell to Omanbonde. — Description of my Suite. — The Guide ignorant of the Route. — A Passage through a Forest. — The Guide allowed to depart. — Difficulty of finding Water. — Indications of Bushmen Villages. — A small Well discovered. — Bushmen make their Appearance. — Their contradictory Descriptions of the Omuramba, supposed by Travellers to be a Branch of the Cunene ..... Page 146

Chapter XIII

Comparatively good Road. — Pretty Scenery. — Fruit and Forest Trees. — A sandy Soil. — Thorn Jungles. — Scarcity of Water. — Vleys dried up. — The Heat intense. — Guides declare there is no Possibility of proceeding further. — Delight on finding Water. — An Accident happens to the Waggon. — The Axletree renewed six Times. — The Acacia Giraffe, and the White Ant. — Monotony of Toil, Anxiety, and Hardship . . . . .153

Chapter XIV

Gadflies. — Another Elephant-hunt. — Interrupted by a Storm of Rain. — A very jeopardous Position. — An arduous Chase. — An Elephant charges his Pursuer. — Wounded severely. — Brought down after a long Hunt. — Another Elephant bagged. — Plenty of Provision. — The Natives flock together to devour the Carcases. — Jerking and Drying. — Slow Progress. — The Number of Bushes and Trees cut down to clear a Passage. — One hundred and seventy Bushes felled every three hundred Yards. — The incredible Amount of Labour to advance one Mile — Description of the Country. — Variation of the Compass. — Some Alteration in my Course . 160

Chapter XV

All Hope of finding the Omuramba described by Travellers, renounced. — Doubts about its being a Branch of the Cunene. — The River pointed out by the Bushmen quite distinct from the Cunene- CONTENTS. XVI —A sandy Country, a continuous Forest. — An unexpected Visit from a Bushman, an old Acquaintance of Messrs. Green and Hahn. — He consents to be our Guide for some Distance. — I promise to kill an Elephant for him and his People. — Encampment by a fine Vley of Water. — -A benevolent Bushman. — An Elephant struck dead by Lightning. — Fruit Trees and Forest Trees. — Their Description. — A Forest Tree of huge Dimensions and spreading Foliage. — Another Elephant-hunt. — Elephants in Herds as nu merous as Cattle, like a large Army. — Their shrill Trumpetings at Night ....... Page 168

Chapter XVI

The Difficulty of finding Way and Water increased. — Guides decamp. — Conflicting Opinions about the Road to the River. — I leave the Waggon to explore the Country. — The Capture of a whole Werft of Bushmen. — Two of them compelled to be Guides. — Tied together as Prisoners. — A Native Woman captured. — A Werft of twenty or thirty Huts. — Conversation with the Chief of the Hamlet. — Reach Ombongo. — A Periodical Watercourse. — Great Anxiety as 'I approach the "Water, Bushmen have often so contradictorily described. — Was it merely a Valley periodically filled with Water, or a mighty River? — Our Guides hide their Arrows in the Trees from fear of Robbery by the Ovaquangari. — I perceive on the faraway Horizon a distinct dark-blue Line. — I recognise at once a great River. — This River called by the Natives the Okavango. — Reflections, Description, Conjectures .... 176

Chapter XVII

The Terror of the Ovaquangari on our Approach. — The Natives cross the River in several Canoes, armed to the Teeth. — Ordered to lay aside their Weapons and talk peaceably. — The Difficulty of communicating with them in the Ovambo Language. — They are made to understand the Object of our Visit. — The Chief sends us Food. — I make known my Intention to visit the paramount Chief, Chikongo by Name. — Despatch a Messenger to him. — He intimates a Wish to see me. — A suitable Conveyance refused. — Procured at last by threatening to leave the Country. — A Sail on the Okavango. — The Boatman a great Blackguard. — Shows the White Man as a Wild Beast to Crowds of Natives. — The Women exceedingly ugly. — The River described. — Hippopotami and Alligators. — Picturesque Landscape — Modes of catching Fish. — Bivouac CONTENTS.

XVII under a Tree, with the Wind for a Bedfellow. — Description of a Werft. — All the Chiefs ofthe Nation assemble to meet me. — Por trait of Chikongo. — His Hospitality. — TheMakololo. — Dr. Living stone's Attempts to civilise this People unsuccessful . Page 184

Chapter XVIII

The Mambari. — Traders from the Confines of the Kingdom of Benguela. — Visit the Ovaquangari every Year. — Pedlar Expeditions as far as Libebe. — Much valuable Information, especially respecting the North and its Natives, to be derived from these Traders. — They convey a Letter for me to the Governor of Benguela. — They also forward one to the R. G. S. of London. — I think of returning to my Men left with the Waggon. — Chikongo objects to thi posal, as his People have not yet " had time to stare at me." — The Savages quite on Par, in Point of Intelligence, with the Ovambos. — Agricultural Pursuits. — Trades of the Ovaquangari. — Various Tribes to the North-east of this People. — No permanently-settled Nations. — Only Bushmen Rejoin my Waggon. — Tremendous Penalty for my successful Enterprise. — Attacked by a malignant Fever. — Five of my Men prostrated by the same Disease. — Anticipate a like Fate for the Remainder of my Party. — I hesitate about incurring the Responsibility of persisting in my Enterprise. — Determine on Reflection to do so . . . .196

Chapter XIX

A Leopard hunted by Dogs. — An extraordinary Leap. — Leopards and Panthers. — Their stealthy fawning Mode of attacking their Prey. — The Chetah. — An Antelope Hunt. — Among the Elephants again. — A Presentiment and a Prophecy. — An exciting Chase. — A Night Hunt. — A pastoral Picture of Elephants enjoying themselves. — A dangerous Position. — A Mistake. — Two Elephants shot instead of one. — A glorious Day's sport. — Three Elephants bagged. — A new Attack of Fever . • . . . 203

Chapter XX

On the Okavango again. — The Numbers on our Sick-list increase. — Partial Recoveries and Relapses. — The numerous Species of Fish in the River all edible, and some delicious. — Fishing. — Singular Contrivances for catching Fish. — Alligators and Hippopotami, Otters. — My original Project of proceeding northward. — Generosity of Chikongo. — Pereira and Morta take the Fever. — Obliged to a CONTENTS. XVIII abandon my long-cherished Scheme. — A precipitate Retreat.— The Okavango perfectly unknown to Europeans.— An Excursion towards its Source recommended.— The native Portuguese not aware ofthe River's Existence.— The Unhealthiness ofthe Climate confined probably to the Spring Season. — Malaria from the Lagoons PaSe 213

Chapter XXI

Departure from the Okavango. — Very slow Progress. — The Country retraced devoid of natural Springs.— No Water to be procured for Cattle on our Retreat. — Obliged to halt till the rainy Season set in. — AReturnto Ombongo in Prospect. — Live Stock getting very low. —Too ill for Elephant-hunting. — Pereira recovers. — He is despatched with an Attendant or two to Otjimbingue to inform Friends of my awkward Position, and to procure Provisions. — Visit from Bushmen sent by a Party of the Ovambo encamped about two Days' journey from us. — Suspicions of the Intentions of this Party. — Spies in the Camp. — Dangers threaten. — The Camp fortified.— Description of fortified Camp in the Desert . . 220

Chapter XXII

Tidings of Pereira. — He falls in with a suspicious-looking Party of Ovambo. — The Country all around on Fire. — Suspect the Ovambo wish to burn me out. — Visit from Chikongo, an Ovambo Chief, Brother ofthe Chief of the same Name before mentioned. — The whole Neighbourhood again in a Blaze within a hundred Yards of the Camp. — Interview with Chikongo, escorted by sixty Attendants fully armed. — The Chief's Professions most friendly. — On my Guard against Treachery. — Showed him I had nothing to fear from him, but he had much to fear from me. — Chikongo's Invitation. — Presents interchanged. — My Illness continues. — Study of Natural History. — A Collection of Birds and Insects. — Partridges. — Antelopes. — Another Elephant shot. — Anticipation of a Feast . 228

Chapter XXIII

Anxiety about Pereira. — His safe Return. — Rejoicings. — He brings Intelligence that Mr. Frederick Green is on his Way to join me. — The extreme Precariousness of my Situation. — Native Politics. — A " Commando " with a numerous Escort despatched from Ondongo CONTENTS. XIX to destroy me. — This fearful Intelligence brings Mr. Green to my Rescue. — An heroic Act of Friendship. — The Expedition sent against me arrives. — The murderous Project abandoned. — The Dangers escaped by Pereira. — Green's Difficulties in advancing. — I go to meet him. — A rather arduous Enterprise. — The joyful Meeting. — Prospects not much mended by it. — Resolved, after much Hesitation on my Part, to proceed to Mr. Green's Encamp ment on the Omuramba. — Singular Hardships and Fatigues of this Journey. — Scarcity of Water. — Thirst. — Suffering from excessive Heat ...... Page 238

Chapter XXIV

Homeward Course pursued. — The Omuramba Watercourse. — Whence, being sometimes dry, does it derive its frequent Flood of Water ? — The rainy Season. — Sufferings from Wetness and Wind. — A Bushman devoured by a Lion Man-eater. — A Lion-hunt. — A marvellous Shot in the Dark. — A Duel in the Desert. — A Lion killed. — A perilous Position. — A wonderful Escape. — A Lion's Grief for the Loss of his Friend. — The History of two Lions, the Terror of the District. — Three Men carried off in the Night from a Village by the Man-eaters. — A hundred human Beings fall a Prey to them. — The Country thereabouts abandoned by human Beings . 247

Chapter XXV

More Lion Adventures. — A Cow carried off. — An Ambush, baited by a Goat, laid for the Thief. — A Lion-hunt. — Beating up the Country. — Retreat of the Enemy in a Brake. — Courage of a Dog. — The Animal driven out of the Brake by setting it on Fire. — Cowardice of most of the Party in running away as soon as the Lion appears. — The Lion attacks his Assailant. — A Shot takes no Effect. — Bodily Encounter with the Lion. — He receives a Shot in the Shoulder whilst struggling with his human Antagonist, who escapes. — Is precipitated. to the Ground byan Accident. — Tussle with the Lion whilst on the Ground. — Terribly mutilated. — The Lion shot by D whilst mangling his Victim. — The Narrator's Account confirmed by his runaway Party . . . 260 a2 CONTENTS. XX

Chapter XXVI

Introduction. — Saldanah Bay. — St. Helen's Bay. — The Berg River. — Lambert's Cove. — Cape Donkin and Donkin's Bay. — The Oliphant River.— Mitchell's Bay. — Hondeklipp Bay. — The Koussie River. — Cape Voltas. — Homeward and Peacock Harbours.— Alexander Bay. — The Orange River : Description, Scenery, precious Stones ; central Course unknown. — Boundary of British Dominions. — Angras Juntas. — Possession Island.— Elizabeth Bay. Angra Pequena. — Pedestal Point. — Robert Harbour. — Ichaboe. — Hottentot Bay. — Rae's Bay. — Spencer's Bay. — Mercury- Island.— Hollam's Bird Isle. — Sandwich Harbour . Page 272

Chapter XXVII

The Swakop River. — Half-moon Bay. — The Omaruru River. — Cape Cross. — The wrecked Vessel. — Mount Messum. — Berg Damaras. — Hogden's Harbour. — Cock's Comb and Sugar Loaf. — Supposed permanent Stream. — Fort Rock Point. — Cape Frio. — The Cunene or Nourse River. — Great Fish Bay. — Formation and Disappearance of Bays, &c. — Excursion Inland from Great Fish Bay. — The Nourse River again. — Bembarougi. — Port Alexander. — The River Flamingos. — The Natives. — Fossil Shells. — Summary. — Concluding Remarks: Rivers, Harbours, Islands, &c. ; Winds, Temperature, Rollers; Scarcity of Rain. 295

Chapter XXVIII

A Contrast. — Discouragement with Respect toSettlementinone Part of Africa, counterbalanced by the Encouragement it meets with at two hundred and fifty miles from Table Bay. — Establishment on the River Knysna. — Dangerous Entrance to the Harbour. — A tremendous Surf. — Perils incurred in getting into safe Water. — Description. — Fine Scenery. — A fatal Act of Daring. — A noble and diversified Prospect. — Delicious Climate. — Description of Landscape. — Salt Marshes. — Government Dockyard. — A Night Scene. — European Visitors. — An English Gentleman-Farmer. — Plattenburg's Bay. — Forest Scenery. — Birds of Gorgeous Plumage, not Vocalists ...... CONTENTS. XXI

Chapter XXIX

The Guano Trade. — When Guano was first used in Agriculture. — Its Discovery in Africa. — The Island of Ichaboe : its Anchorage; its Rollers. — The Treasures of Ichaboe made known by Mr. Livingstone. — First Attempt to reach the Island a Failure; a second succeeds. — Vessels arrive in Numbers. — Immense Deposits of Guano. — The Penguin. — The Penguin's Lament. — Stages for loading Vessels. — The "Flying Railway." — Committee of Safety. — The Guano Pits. — Squabbles amongst the Captains and others. — The Guano Fever versified. — The Island is properly divided. — Ichaboe presents an animated Scene. — Bad Doings on the Island. — Sir John Marshall. — The Guano Pits exhausted. — Concluding Remarks ....... Page ILLUSTRATIONS. Drawn upon Wood by J. B. Zweckeb, and engraved by G. Peaeson. 1. The Afeican Elephant ....

Frontispiece. 2. Portrait or the Authob. (Engraved on Steel from a Photograph) Vignette. 3. First Peogeess To face page 13 4. Crossing a burning Savannah ... „ 51 5. A well-stocked Shooting-Gbotjnd „ 72 6. A Right Royal Feont .... „ 90 7. Fueious Chaege of a Paterfamilias . . „ 97 8. Chase of the Wild Boae .... „ 111 9. Disappointed Lions „ 125 10. Death of a Lion „ 129 11. Pursuit of an Elephant .... „ 171 12. The White Man a Show .... „ 189 13. The Leopard and his Prey ... „ 205 14. A Horrible Surprise „ 255 15. Death-Grapple with a Lion ... „ 271 16. Group of Natives, near Great Fish Bay. „ 311 17. Island of Ichaboe „ THE OKAVANGO RIVER.

Chapter I

Project of an Expedition into the Interior with Mr. Green. — Mr. Green's Expedition to Libebe. — Professor Wahlberg killed by an Elephant. — Another Expedition of Mr. Green in search ofthe River Cunene. — Two Rhenish Missionaries, Messrs. Hahn and Rath, join Mr. Green. — Visit to the Ovambo. — Treachery of King Nangoro. — The exploring Party attacked by his Orders by a large Body of Natives. — The Victory of the Europeans. — Six hundred fighting Men beaten by thirteen. — The accidental Discovery of a Fresh-water Lake called Onondova. — The further Prosecution of the Expedition renounced. — I determine on resuming it in Person. — Difficulties to be overcome. — Travelling Equipment and Suite. — Particular Objects of the Expedition. — Motives for choosing my Route through Western Damara Land.

Towards the end of 1856 I found myself once more back at the Cape, having, in the interim be tween this period and my last exploring expedi tion, been on a visit to Europe, partly with a view to see my relations, friends, and acquaintances, and partly in order to publish my travels ("Lake Ngami"). I had no fixed plan for the future; but previous to my departure from the Cape, I had promised a friend — Mr. Frederick Green — to join him on an exploring and hunting tour into B EXPEDITION TO LIBEBE. 2 the distant interior. Mr. Green, who had in the mean time undertaken an expedition to some ex tent on his own account, had not yet returned to the Cape on my arrival at that place, nor could I hear of his movements or exact whereabouts. This left me rather in a fix. For two months I waited patiently, but with no better result.

At the end of this period I was offered the management of certain mines on the borders of Great Namaqua and Damara Land, and as I could ill afford to idle away my time, Mr. Green's return seeming so un certain, I accepted, after some bttle hesitation, the proffered post, which was one of considerable difficulty and responsibility. Scarcely was tins arrangement concluded when my friend suddeidy made his appearance at the Cape. On hearing of my new engagement he was naturaby disappointed; the regret was mutual. In company with a Mr. Wilson, Mr. Green had, on the expedition above abuded to, penetrated from the Lake regions to Libebe, — up to that time an almost terra incognita. They had accompbshed this exploration partly by water and partly by land, but the undertaking encountered the most serious obstacles and terrible hardships.

Mr. Green has published a short account of it in the Cape "Eastern Province Magazine," for which narrative I beg to refer the curious to the June and July numbers of that periodical for 1857. Subsequently Mr. Green joined the late esteemed and much lamented professor "Wahlberg in an excur- THE RIVER CUNENE. 3 sion to the eastward of Lake Ngami, chiefly with a view to hunting. This proved a most disastrous expedition, for it ended in the death of the professor, who was kibed by an enraged and wounded elephant. Nothing daunted, however, by his friend's frightful fate, or by his own sufferings and hardships, Mr. Green determined once more to take the field, — this time in a direction totally different to his former wanderings, viz., in search of the River Cunene, — a point that Mr. Gabon and my self had failed in reaching in the year 1850.

Our arrangements were soon completed, and in the course of a week or so we found ourselves on our way to Walwich Bay; I for the purpose of undertaking the management of the mines above mentioned, and Mr. Green to prosecute his journey into the interior. This journey had a threefold object: exploring, hunting, and bar tering. It was, however, not until some months had elapsed after our arrival at Walwich Bay that Mr. Green was able to take, in the month of April, 1857, his final departure. The route he intended to pursue was somewhat doubtful; but for a certain distance he purposed following the course of the Omuramba Ua'matako, taking en route Otjimbingue, Barmen, Schmelens Hope, &c. At this period two Rhenish missionaries — the Rev. Messrs. Hahn and Rath, residing respectively at Barmen and Otjimbingue' — also proposed visit ing the Ovambo, whence, if practicable, to pene- B TREACHERY OF KING NANGORO. 4 trate to the Cunene.