Lake Ngami : or, explorations and discoveries, during four years' wanderings in wilds of south-western Africa

Preface

The following Narrative of Explorations and Discoveries during four years in the wilds of the southwestern parts of Africa contains the account of two expeditions in that continent between the years 1850 and 1854. In the first of these journeys, the countries of the Damaras (previously all but unknown in Europe) and of the Ovambo (till now a terra incognita) were explored; in the second, the newly-discovered Lake Ngami was reached by a route that had always been deemed impracticable. It is more than probable that this route (the shortest and best) will be adopted as the one by which commerce and civilization may eventually find their way to the Lake regions.

The first journey was performed in company with Mr. Francis Galton, to whom we are indebted for a work on “ Tropical South Africa on the second the Author was alone, and altogether dependent on his own very scanty resources.

It was suggested to the Author, as regards the first journey, that, from the ground having been preoccupied, it would be best for him to commence where his friend left off. There was some reason for this ; but, on mature consideration, he deemed it desirable to start from the beginning, otherwise he could not have given

IV

PREFACE.

a connected and detailed account of the regions he visited. Moreover, from the Author having remained two years longer in Africa than Mr. Galton, he has not only been enabled to ascertain the truth respecting much that at first appeared obscure and doubtful, but has had many opportunities of enlarging the stock of information acquired by himself and friend when together. Besides, they were often separated for long periods, during which many incidents and adventures occurred to the Author that are scarcely alluded to in “ Tropical South Africa.” And, lastly, the impressions received by different individuals, even under similar circumstances, are generally found to vary greatly, which, in itself, would be a sufficient reason for the course the Author has decided on pursuing.

As will be seen, the present writer has not only described the general appearance of the regions he visited, but has given the best information he was able to collect of the geological features of the country, and of its probable mineral wealth ; and, slight though it may be, he had the gratification of finding that the hints he threw out at the Cape and elsewhere were acted upon, that mining companies were formed, and that mining operations are now carried on to some extent in regions heretofore considered as utterly worthless.

The Author has also spoken at some length of the religion, and manners, and customs of such of the native tribes (previously all but unknown to Europeans) visited by him during his several journeys. He also noted many of their superstitions, for too much attention, as has been truly observed, can not be paid to the mythological traditions of savages. Considerable dis-

PREFACE.

y cretion is, of course, needful in this matter, as, if every portion were to be literally received, we might be led into grievous errors ; still, by attending to what many might call absurd superstitions, we not only attain to a knowledge of the mental tendencies of the natives, but are made acquainted with interesting facts touching the geographical distribution of men and inferior animals.

Since the different members constituting the brute creation are so intimately connected with the economy of man, and since many of the beasts and birds indigenous to those parts of Africa visited by the Author are still but imperfectly known, he has thought it advisable to enter largely into their habits, &c., the rather as natural history has from childhood been his favorite pursuit, and is a subject on which he therefore feels conversant ; and though part of what he has stated regarding the rhinoceros, the hippopotamus, the koodoo, the ostrich, and others of the almost incalculable varieties of animals found in the African wilderness may be known to some inquirers, it is still hoped that the general reader will find matter he has not previously met with.

The larger portion of the beautiful plates to be found in this work (faithfully depicting the scenes described) are by Mr. Wolf— “ the Landseer of animals and vegetation,” to quote the words of the Earl of Ellesmere in a note which his lordship did me the honor to write to me.

The Author has endeavored in the following pages faithfully, and in plain and unassuming language, to record his experiences, impressions, feelings, and impulses, under circumstances often peculiarly trying.

VI

PREFACE.

He lays claim to no more credit than may attach to an earnest desire to make himself useful and to further the cause of science.

It is more than probable that his career as an explorer and pioneer to civilization and commerce is terminated ; still he would fain hope that his humble exertions may not be without their fruits.

When he first arrived in Africa, he generally traveled on foot throughout the whole of the day, regardless of heat, and almost scorning the idea of riding on horseback, or using any other mode of conveyance ; indeed, he was wont to vie with the natives in endurance ; but now, owing to the severe hardships he has undergone, his constitution is undermined, and the foundation of a malady has been laid that it is feared he will carry with him to the day of his death ; yet such is the perverseness of human nature that, did circumstances permit, he would return to this life of trial and privation.

Chapter I

Departure from Sweden. — Day-dreams. — Fraternal Love. — A tempting Offer. — Preparations for Journey to Africa. — Departure from England. — Arrival at the Cape. — Town and Inhabitants. — Table Mountain. — Curious Legend. — Preparation for Journey into the Interior. — Departure for Walfisch Bay Page 19

Chapter II

Arrival at Walfisch Bay. — Scenery. — Harbor described. — Want of Water. — Capabilities for Trade. — Fish. — Wild-fowl. — Mirage.— Sand Fountain. — The Bush- tick. — The Naras. — Quadrupeds scarce. — Meeting the Hottentots. — Their filthy Habits. — The Alarum. — The Turn-out. — Death of a Lion. — Arrival at Scheppmansdorf. — The Place described. — Mr. Bam. — Missionary Life. — Ingratitude of Natives. — Missionary Wagons 29

CHAPTER HI.

Preparations for Journey. — Breaking-in Oxen. — Departure from Scheppmansdorf. — An infuriated Ox. — The Naarip Plain. — The scarlet Flower. — The Usab Gorge. — The Swakop River. — Tracks of Rhinoceros seen. — Anecdote of that Animal. — A Sunrise in the Tropics.— Sufferings from Heat and Thirst. — Arrival at Daviep : great resort of Lions. — A Horse and Mule killed by them. — The Author goes in pursuit. — A troop of Lions. — Unsuccessful Chase. — Mules’ flesh palatable 44

Chapter IV

The Gnoo and the Gemsbok. — Pursuit of a Rhinoceros. — Venomous Fly. — Fruit of the Acacia nutritious. — Sun-stroke.— Crested Parrot. — A Giraffe shot. — Tjobis Fountain. — Singular Omelet. — Nutritious Gum. — Arrival at Richterfeldt. — Mr. Rath and the Missions. — The Damaras : their Persons, Habits, &c. — Lions Troublesome. — Panic. — Horse Sickness 56

CONTENTS.

Vlll

CHAPTER Y.

Hans Larsen. — His Exploits. — He joins the Expedition. — How people travel on Ox-back. — Rhinoceros Hunt. — Death of the Beast. — u Look before you Leap.” — Anecdote proving the Truth of the Proverb.— Hans and the Lion. — The Doctor in Difficulties. — Sufferings on the Naarip Plain. — Arrival at Scheppmansdorf Page 68

Chapter VI

Return to Scheppmansdorf. — Training Oxen for the Yoke. — Sporting. — The Flamingo. — The Butcher-bird : curious Superstition regarding it. — Preparing for Journey. — Servants described 76

Chapter VII

Departure from Scheppmansdorf. — Cattle refractory at starting. — Tineas. — Always travel by Night.' — Rhinoceros Hunt. — The Author in danger of a second Sun-stroke. — Reach Onanis. — A Tribe of Hill-Damaras settled there. — Singular Manner in which these People smoke. — Effects of the Weed. — The Euphorbia Candelabrum.— Remarkable Properties of this vegetable Poison. — Guinea-fowl : the best Manner of shooting them. — Meet a troop of Giraffes.— Tjobis Fountain again. — Attacked by Lions. — Providential Escape. — Arrival at Richterfeldt 83

Chapter VIII

A hearty Welcome. — We remove the Encampment. — An Apparition. — Audacity of wild Beasts. — Depriving Lions of their Prey. — Excessive Heat. — Singular effects of great Heat. — Depart for Barmen. — Meet a troop of Zebras.-— Their flesh not equal to Venison. — The Missionary’s Wall. — A sad Catastrophe. — The u Kameel-Doorn.” — Buxton Fountain. — The Scorpion. — Arrival at Barmen 95

Chapter IX

Barmen. — Thunder-storm in the Tropics. — A Man killed by Lightning.— Warm Spring. — Mr. Hahn: his Missionary Labor; Seed sown in exceeding stony Ground. — The Lake Omanbonde.— Mr. Galton’s Mission of Peace. — The Author meets a Lion by the way ; the Beast bolts. — Singular Chase of a Gnoo. — “ Killing two Birds with one Stone.” — A Lion Hunt. — The Author escapes Death by a Miracle. — Consequences of shooting on a Sunday 106

CONTENTS*

IX

CHAPTER X*

A Christmas in the Desert. — Mr. Galton’s Return from the Erongo Mountain. — He passes numerous Villages. — Great Drought; the Natives have a Choice of two Evils. — The Hill-Damaras. — The Damaras* a Pastoral People. — The whole country Public Property. — Enormous herds of Cattle. — They are as destructive as Locusts to the Vegetation. — Departure from Richterfeldt. — The Author kills an Oryx. — The Oxen refractory. — Danger of traversing dry Water-courses on the approach of the Rainy Season. — Message from the Robber-chief Jonker. — Emeute among the Servants. — Depart for Schmelen’s Hope..., , Page 119

Chapter XI

Schmelen’s Hope. — Scenery. — Missionary Station. — Raid of the Namaquas. — Ingratitude of the Natives. — Jonker’s Feud with Kahichene ; his Barbarities ; his Treachery. — Mr. Galton departs for Eikams. — Author’s successful sporting Excursions. — He captures a young Steinbok and a Koodoo.— They are easily domesticated. — Hy senas very troublesome ; several destroyed by Spring-guns. — The latter described. — Visit from a Leopard ; it wounds a Dog ; Chase and Death of the Leopard. — The Caracal 126

Chapter XII

Wild-fowl abundant. — The Great Bustard. — The Termites. — Wild Bees. — Mushrooms.— The Chief Zwartbooi. — Return of Mr. Galton. — He makes a Treaty with Jonker. — He visits Rehoboth. — Misdoings of John Waggoner and Gabriel. — Change of Servants. — Swarm of Caterpillars. — A reconnoitring Expedition. — Thunder-storm. — The Omatako Mountains. — Zebra-flesh a God-send. — Tropical Phenomenon.— The Damaras not remarkable for Veracity. — Encamp in an Ant-hill. — Return to Schmelen’s Hope. — Preparations for visiting Omanbonde 135

. CHAPTER XIII.

Depart from Schmelen’s Hope. — Meeting with Kahiohene. — Oxen Stolen. — Summary Justice. — Superstition. — Meeting an old Friend. — Singular Custom. — Gluttony of the Damaras. — How they eat Flesh by the Yard and not by the Pound. — Superstitious Custom.— A nondescript Animal. — The Author loses his Way. — Ravages of the Termites. — “Wait a bit, if you please.” — Magnificent Fountain. — Remains of Damara Villages. — Horrors of War. — A 2

X

CONTENTS.

Meet Bushmen. — Meet Damaras. — Difficulties encountered by African Travelers. — Reach the Lake Omanbonde. — Cruel Disappointment Page 146

Chapter XIV

Omanbonde visited by Hippopotami. — Vegetation, &c., described. — Game somewhat scarce. — Combat between Elephant and Rhinoceros.— Advance or Retreat. — Favorable reports of the Ovambo-land. — Resolve to proceed there. — Reconnoitre the Country. — Depart from Omanbonde. ^-Author shoots a Giraffe.— Splendid Mirage. — The Fan-palm.— The Guide absconds. — Commotion among the Natives. — Arrive at Okamabute. — Unsuccessful Elephant-hunt. — Vegetation. — Accident to Wagon. — Obliged to proceed on Ox-back. — The Party go astray. — Baboon Fountain. — Meeting with the Ovambo ; their personal Appearance, &c. — Return to Encampment. — An Elephant killed. — Discover a curious Plant. — Immorality. — Reflections 162

Chapter XV

Depart from Okamabuti. — Visit from a Lion. — Amulets. — Revisit Baboon Fountain.— Otjikoto ; a wonderful Freak of Nature ; Remarkable Cavern. — Natives unacquainted with the Art of Swimming.— Fish abundant in Otjikoto ; frequented by immense Flocks of Doves. — Panic of the Ovambo on seeing Birds shot on the Wing. — Arrive at Omutjamatunda. — A greasy Welcome. — Ducks and Grouse numerous. — Author finds himself somewhat “ overdone.” — “ Salt-pans.” — All “look Blue.” — A second Paradise. — Hospitable Reception. — Vegetation. — People live in Patriarchal Style. — Population.— Enormous Hogs. — Arrive at the Residence of the redoubtable Nangoro 178

Chapter XVI

Visit from Nangoro. — His extreme Obesity. — One must be fat to wear a Crown. — His non-appreciation of Eloquence. — Singular Effects of Fireworks on the Natives. — Cure for making a wry Face. — Ball at the Palace. — The Ladies very attractive and very loving.— Thei^ Dress, Ornaments, &c. — Honesty of the Ovambo. — Kindnessitq^the Poor. — Love of Country. — Hospitality. — Delicate manner of Eating.— Loose Morals. — Law of Succession. — Religion. — Houses. — Domestic Animals. — Implements of Husbandry. — Manner of Tilling the Ground. — Articles of Barter. — Metallurgy 190

CONTENTS.

XI

Chapter XVII

The River Cunene. — The Travelers are Prisoners at large. — Kingly Revenge. — Kingly Liberality. — Depart from Ondonga. — Sufferings and Consequences resulting from Cold. — Return to Okamabuti. — Damara Women murdered by Bushmen. — Preparations for Journey.— Obtain Guides. — Depart from Tjopopa’s Werft. — Game abundant.— Author and three Lions stalk Antelopes in Company. — Extraordinary Visitation. — The Rhinoceros’s Guardian Angel. — The Textor Erythrorhynchus. — The Amadina Squamifrons ; singular Construction of its Nest. — Return to Barmen Page 204

Chapter XVIII

The Damaras. — Whence they came. — Their Conquests. — The Tide turns. — Damara-land only partially inhabited. — Climate. — Seasons.— Mythology. — Religion. — Superstitions. — Marriage. — Polygamy.— Children. — Circumcision. — Bury their Dead. — Way they mourn. — Children interred alive. — Burial of the Chief, and Superstitions consequent thereon. — Maladies. ^-Damaras do not live long; the Cause thereof. — Food. — Music and Dancing. — How they swear. — Power of the Chieftain limited. — Slothful People. — Numerals. — Astronomy.— Domestic Animals ; their Diseases..... 214-

Chapter XIX

Dispatch a Messenger to Cape-Town. — Depart from Barmen. — Eikhams. — Eyebrecht. — Depart from Eikhams. — Elephant Fountain. — - Tunobis. — Enormous quantities of Game. — Shooting by Night at the “ Skarm.” — The Author has several narrow Escapes. — Checked in attempt to reach the Ngami. — The Party set out on their Return. — Reach Elephant Fountain. — How to make Soap. — Pitfalls. — A night Adventure.^-Game scarce. — Join Hans. — The Party nearly poisoned. — Arrival at Walfisch Bay. — A tub Adventure. — Extraordinary Mortality among the Fish. — Author narrowly escapes Drowning.— Arrival of the Missionary Vessel. — Letters from Home. — Mr. Galton returns to .Europe. — Reflections 229

Chapter XX

Capture of young Ostriches. — Natural History of the Ostrich ; where found; Description of ; Size; Weight; Age; Voice; Strength; Speed ; Food ; Water ; Breeding ; Incubation ; Cunning ; Stones found in Eggs ; Chicks ; Flesh. — Brain in request among the Romans.— Eggs highly prized. — Uses of Egg-shells. — Feathers an ar-

XI 1

CONTENTS.

tide of Commerce. — Ostrich Parasols. — The Bird’s destructive Propensities. — Habits. — Resembles Quadrqpeds. — Domestication. —

The Chase. — Snares. — Ingenious Device. — Enemies of the Ostrich Page 247

Chapter XXI

Sudden Floods. — J ohn Allen’s Sufferings. — Hans and the Author enter into Partnership. — Young Grass injurious to Cattle. — Depart from Walfisch Bay. — Attractive Scenery. — Troops of Lions. — Extraordinary Proceedings of Kites.— Flight of Butterflies.— Attachment of Animals to one another. — Arrival at Richterfeldt ; at Barmen.— Hans’s narrow Escape. — Self-possession. — Heavy Rains. — Runaway Ox ; he tosses the Author. — Depart from Barmen. — Difficulty of crossing Rivers. — Encounter great numbers of Oryxes. 264

Chapter XXII

The Oryx ; more than one Species. — Where found. — Probably known in Europe previous to the discovery of the Passage round the Cape of Good Hope. — Description of the Oryx. — Gregarious. — Speed. — Food. — Water not necessary to its existence. — Will face the Lion. — Formidable Horns. — Their Use. — Flesh. — The Chase of this Animal.... 272

Chapter XXIII

Arrival at Eikhams. — Native Dogs ; cruelly treated. — Jonker Afrikaner.— The Author visits the Red Nation ; the bad Repute of these People. — The Author attacked by Ophthalmia. — The embryo Locust.— The “ flying” Locust; its Devastations. — The Locust-bird. — Arrival at Rehoboth ; the Place described 277

Chapter XXIV

Return to Eikhams. — Ugly Fall. — Splendid Landscape. — Jonker’s Delinquencies.— How to manage the Natives. — The Ondara. — It kills a Man. — How his Comrade revenges him. — Medical Properties of the Ondara. — The Cockatrice. — The Cobra di Capella. — The Puff-adder.— The Spitting Snake. — The Black Snake. — Few Deaths caused by Snakes. — Antidotes for Snake-bites. — Return to Rehoboth.. 287

Chapter XXV

The Author’s Tent takes Fire. — He loses every thing but his Papers. — He is laid on a bed of Sickness. — Want of Medicine, &c. — Reflections.— Whole Villages infected with Fever. — Abundance of

CONTENTS.

xiii

Game. — Extraordinary Shot at an Ostrich. — A Lion breakfasts on his Wife. — Wonderful shooting Star. — Remarkable Mirage. — Game and Lions plentiful. — The Ebony- tree. — Arrival at Bethany, a Missionary Station. — The Trouble of a large Herd of Cattle. — A thirsty Man’s Cogitation. — Curious Superstition. — The Damara Cattle described. — People who live entirely without Water.-^Cross the Orange River. — Sterile Country Page 299

Chapter XXVI

Great Namaqua-land. — Its Boundaries and Extent. — Its Rivers. — Nature of the Country. — Vegetation and Climate. — Geological Structure.— Minerals. — “Topnaars” and “ Oerlams.” — Houses. — Mythology and Religion. — Tumuli.— Wonderful Rock. — Curious Legend of the Hare. — Coming of Age. — The Witch-doctor. — Amulets.— Superstitions. — A Namaqua’s notion of the Sun. — Marriage. — Polygamy. — Children. — Barbarous Practice. — Longevity.— -Singular Customs. — Ornaments. — Tattooing. — Arms. — Idle Habits. — Pond of Amusements. — Music and Dancing. — Spirits. — Mead. — Domestic Animals 311

Chapter XXVII

Leave the Orange River. — Arrival at Komaggas. — Gardening and Agriculture. — The Author starts alone for the Cape. — Colony Horses. — Enmity of the Boers to “ Britishers.” — Dutch Salutation. — The Author must have been at Timbuctoo, whether or no. — He arrives at Cape-Town. — Cuts a sorry figure. — Is run away with. — A Feast of Oranges. — Ghost Stories. — Cattle Auction. — Hans and John Allen proceed to Australia. — -Preparations for Journey to the

Ngami. — Departure from the Cape 325

CHAPTER XXVm.

Arrival at Walfisch Bay. — Atrocities of the Namaquas. — Mr. Hahn. — His Philanthropy. — Author departs for Richterfeldt. — Shoots a Lion. — Lions unusually numerous. — Piet’s Performances with Lions.— The Lion a Church-goer. — Barmen. — Eikhams. — Kamapyu’s mad Doings and Consequences thereof. — Kamapyu is wounded by other Shafts than Cupid’s. — Author visits Cornelius ; here he meets Amral and a party of Griqua Elephant-hunters. — Reach Rehoboth. — Tan’s Mountain. — Copper Ore. — Jonathan Afrika. — A Lion sups on a Goat, — A Lion besieges the Cattle 339

XIV

CONTENTS.

Chapter XXIX

Dispatch Cattle to the Cape. — Terrible Thunder-storm. — Trees struck by Lightning. — The Nosop River. — A Comet. — The Author nearly poisoned. — Some of the Men abscond ; they return to their Duty. — Babel-like confusion of Tongues. — Game abundant. — Author shoots a Giraffe. — Meet Bushmen. — Unsuccessful Elephant-hunt. — Sufferings from Hunger. — Tunobis. — Game scarce. — Author and Steed entrapped. — Pitfalls. — The Men turn sulky. — Preparations for departure from Tunobis. — Vicious Pack-oxen. — Consequences of excessive Fatigue. — The Jackal’s handiwork. — Tracks of Elephants. — More Pitfalls. — Loss of the Anglo-Saxon Lion and the Swedish Cross. — Reach Ghanze Page 351

Chapter XXX

Ghanze. — Spotted Hyaena. — The Rhinoceros. — Where found. — Several Species. — Description o£ Rhinoceros. — Size. — Appearance. — Age. — Strength. — Speed. — Food. — Water. — The Young. — Affection.— Senses. — Disposition. — Gregarious. — Indolence. — Domestication.— Flesh. — Horns. — The Chase. — Mr. Os well’s Adventures with Rhinoceroses. — A Crotchet. — Where to aim at the Rhinoceros.— Does not bleed externally when wounded. — Great numbers slain annually . « . . 368

Chapter XXXI

Departure from Ghanze. — Nectar in the Desert. — Difficulty in finding Water. — Arrive at Abeghan. — Unsuccessful Chase. — A “ Charm.” — How to make the undrinkable drinkable.— An Elephant wounded and killed. — Bold and courageous Dog. — Kobis. — Author seized with a singular Malady. — Messengers dispatched to the Chief of the Lake Ngami. — A large troop of Elephants. — Author kills a huge Male. — Lions and Giraffe. — Author’s hair-breadth Escapes : from a black Rhinoceros ; from a white Rhinoceros ; from two troops of Elephants ; he shoots a couple of his Adversaries. — Where to aim at an Elephant 386

Chapter XXXII

Timbo’s Return from the Lake ; his Logic ; he takes the Law in his own Hands. — Calf of Author’s Leg goes astray. — A troop of Elephants.— Author is charged by one of them, and narrowly escapes Death. — He shoots a white Rhinoceros. — He disables a black Rhinoceros.— He is charged and desperately bruised and wounded by

CONTENTS.

XV the latter. — He saves the Life of his Attendant, Kamapyu. — Author again charged by the Rhinoceros, and escapes Destruction only bv the opportune Death of his Antagonist. — Reflections. — He starts for the Ngami Page 402

Chapter XXXIII

Start from Kobis. — Meet Bechuanas. — Ealse Report. — Wonderful Race of Men. — The Baobob-tree. — The Ngami. — Pirst Impressions of the Lake. — Reflections. —Experience some Disappointment. — Reach the Zouga River and encamp near it. — Interview with Chief Lecholetebe. — Information refused. — Immoderate Laughter. — Presents to the Chief. — His Covetousness. — His Cruelty. — Formidable Difficulties. — Author permitted to proceed northward 413

CHAPTER XXXIY.

The Ngami. — When discovered. — Its various Names. — Its Size and Form. — Great Changes in its Waters. — Singular Phenomenon. — The Teoge River. — The Zouga River. — The Mukuru-Mukovanja River. —Animals. — Birds. — Crocodiles. — Serpents. — Fish 423

CHAPTER XXXY.

The Batoana. — Government. — Eloquence. — Language. — Mythology. — Religion. — Superstition. — The Rain-maker. — Polygamy. — Circumcision.— Burial. — Disposition of the Bechuanas. — Thievish Propensities.— Dress. — Great Snuff-takers. — Smoking. — Occupations. • — Agriculture. — Commerce. — Hunting and Fishing 436

CHAPTER XXXYI.

Departure for Libebe. — The Canoe. — The Lake. — Reach the Teoge. — Adventure with a Leche. — Luxurious Yegetation. — Exuberance of animal Life. — Buffaloes. — The Koodoo. — His Haunts. — Pace. — Food. — Flesh. — Hide.— Disposition. — Gregarious Habits. — The Chase , 456

CHAPTER XXXYII.

Tsetse Fly. — Confined to particular Spots. — Its Size. — Its Destructiveness. — Fatal to Domestic Animals. — Symptoms in the Ox when bitten by the Tsetse 468

CHAPTER XXXYHI.

The Crocodile. — An Englishman killed by one of these Monsters. — The Omoroanga Yavarra River. — Hardships. — Beautiful Scenery. — Lecholetebe’s Treachery.-— The Reed-ferry 471 xvi

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXXIX.

The Bayeye. — Their Country ; Persons ; Language ; Disposition ; Lying and Pilfering Habits. — Polygamy practiced among the Bayeye. — Their Houses; Dress; Ornaments; Weapons; Liquors; Agriculture ; Grain ; Fruits ; Granaries. — Hunting. — Fishing. — Nets. — Diseases. — The Matsanyana. — The Bavicko. — Libebe Page 476

CHAPTER XL.

Departure from the Bayeye Werft. — The Reed-raft. — The Hippopotamus.— Behemoth or Hippopotamus. — Where found. — Two Species. — Description of Hippopotamus. — Appearance. — Size. — Swims like a Duck. — Food. — Destructive Propensities of the Animal. — Disposition.— Sagacity. — Memory. — Gregarious Habits. — Nocturnal Habits. — Domestication. — Food. — Flesh. — Hide. — Ivory. — Medicinal Virtues 485

CHAPTER XLI.

The Bayeye harpoon the Hippopotamus. — The Harpoon described.— How the Chase of the Hippopotamus is conducted by the Bayeye. — How it was conducted by the ancient Egyptians. — The Spear used by them. — Ferocity of the Hippopotamus.— Killed by Guns. — Frightful Accident. — The Downfall 495

CHAPTER XLII.

Return to the Lake. — The Author starts for Namaqua-land to procure Wagons. — Night Adventure with a Lion. — Death of the Beast. — Sufferings of the Author 506

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Pago

LIONS PULLING DOWN GIRAFFE To face Title.

MALAY 24

YIEW OF WALFISCH BAY 30

DAMARAS 63

HILL-DAMARA PIPE 89

THE LUCKY ESCAPE 117

SHOOTING-TRAP 132

FAN-PALM * 167

OYAMBO PIPE 174

OYAMBO DAGGER AND SHEATH 174

OYAMBO BASKET FOR MERCHANDISE 174

OTJIKOTO FOUNTAIN 180

INTERVIEW WITH KING NANGORO 191

OYAMBO BEER-CUP AND BEER-SPOON 193

OYAMBO GUITAR 193

OYAMBO 195

OVAMBG MEAT-DISH 197

OYAMBO DWELLING-HOUSE AND CORN-STORES 200

VIEW IN ONDONGA 201

OYAMBO BLACKSMITHS AT WORK 203

UNWELCOME HUNTING COMPANIONS 211

DAMARA GRAVE 224

JONKER AFRIKANER 232

WILD BOAR’S HEAD 233

COURSING YOUNG OSTRICHES 249

ORYX OR GEMSBOK 273

SKULL OF A BECHUANA OX 308

DACRE’S PULPIT 3^3

NEGRO BOY 338

PITFALLS 361

HEADS OF RHINOCEROSES 371

HORNS OF RHINOCEROS OSWELLII 372

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Page

FOETUS OF RHINOCEROS KEITLOA 376

THE APPROACH OF ELEPHANTS 398

MORE CLOSE THAN AGREEABLE 406

DESPERATE SITUATION 409

NAKONG AND LECHE 432

THE BECHUANA PICHO 438

ASCENDING THE TEOGE 461

TSETSE FLY 468

THE REED-FERRY •. 476

B AYE YE 481

MEDAL 493

HIPPOPOTAMUS HARPOON 496

THE REED-RAFT AND HARPOONERS 497

THE SPEAR 498

EGYPTIANS AND HIPPOPOTAMUS 500

THE SPEAR 501

THE REEL 501

THE DOWNFALL 505

AUTHOR AND STEED BROKEN DOWN 510

SIGNAL STATION AT CAPE-TOWN 511

LAKE NGAII,

Chapter I

Departure from Sweden. — Day-dreams. — Fraternal Love. — A tempting Offer. — Preparations for Journey to Africa. — Departure from England. — Arrival at the Cape. — Town and Inhabitants. — Table Mountain. — Curious Legend. — Preparation for Journey into the Interior. — Departure for Walfisch Bay.

It was at the close of the year 1849 that I left Gothenbourg, in a sailing vessel, for Hull, at which place I arrived in safety, after a boisterous and somewhat dangerous passage of about fourteen days’ duration. Though a Swede by birth, I am half an Englishman by parentage ; and it was with pleasure that I visited, for the second time, a country endeared to me by the ties of kindred and the remembrance of former hospitality.

My stay in England, however, was intended to be only of Short duration. I carried with me thither a considerable collection of living birds and quadrupeds, together with numerous preserved specimens of natural history, the produce of many a long hunting excursion amid the mountains, lakes, and forests of my native country. These I was anxious to dispose of in England, and then proceed in my travels, though to what quarter of the globe I had scarcely yet determined.

From my earliest youth, my day-dreams had carried me into the wilds of Africa. Passionately fond of traveling, accustomed from my childhood to field sports and to the study of natural history, and (as I hope I may say with truth) desirous of rendering myself useful in my generation, I earnest-

DAY-DREAMS.

ly longed to explore some portion of that continent where all my predilections could be fully indulged, and where much still remained in obscurity which might advantageously be brought to light. The expense, however, of such a journey was to me an insurmountable obstacle. I had, therefore, long since given up all idea of making it, and had turned my thoughts northward to Iceland, a country within my reach, and where I purposed studying the habits and characteristics of the rarer species of the northern fauna. While at Hull, accordingly, I consulted some whaling captains on the subject of my enterprise, and had almost completed my arrangements, when a visit to London, on some private affairs, entirely changed my destination.

Before leaving Hull I witnessed a striking example of that attachment toward each other so frequently found to exist in the most savage animals. By the kindness of the secretary, I had been permitted to place my collection in the gardens of the Hull Zoological Society, ^kmong others were two brown bears — twins — somewhat more than a year old, and playful as kittens when together. Indeed, no greater punishment could be inflicted upon these beasts than to disunite them for however short a time. Still, there was a marked contrast in their dispositions. One of them was good-tempered and gentle as a lamb, while the other frequently exhibited signs of a sulky and treacherous character. Tempted by an offer for the purchase of the former of these animals, I consented, after much hesitation, to his being separated from his brother.

It was long before I forgave myself this act. On the following day, on my proceeding, as usual, to inspect the collection, one of the keepers ran up to me in the greatest haste, exclaiming, “Sir, I am glad you are come, for your bear has gone mad!” He then told me that, during the night, the beast had destroyed his den, and was found in the morning roaming wild about the garden. Luckily, the keeper