How I found Livingstone...

Front matter

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^1' I FOUND LIYINGSTONE.

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Contents

CHAPTER L

ZANZIBAR.

Arrival at Zanzibar — Reception by Captain Webb, U.S. Consul — Life at Zanzibar — System of Trade with the Interior — The town of Zanzibar — Population — Introduction to Dr. Kirk— Bishop Tozer Pages 1 to 20

Chapter II. Organization Of The Expedition

Difficulty of obtaining information — Engagement of J. W. Shaw and W. L. Farquhar — Mbarak Bombay — Visit to the Sultan's Palace — Embarkation for Bagamoyo — Courtesy and Character of the Sultan Pages 21 to 40

Chapter III. Bagamoyo

Arrival at Bagamoyo — Hospitality of the Jesuit Mission — Lite at Bagamoyo — Ali bin Salim — Dishonest Prowlers — Donkey stolen — Packing the Bales — Difficulty in procuring Pagazis — Cost of Carriage and Goods — Soor Hadji Palloo — His peccadilloes—Visit to the Livingstone Caravan — Arrival at Bagamoyo of Dr. Kirk — Climate of Bagamoyo — Departure of the Five Caravans ....... Pages 41 to 68

^li CONTENTS,

CHAPTEK IV.

THROUGH UKWERE, UKAMI, AND UDOE, TO USEGUHHA.

AiTival at first Camp, " Shamba Gonera " — The Valley of the I{jngani — Building Bridge across the Kiugani — The crossing — Peppering Hippopotami — Arrival at Kikoka — Eoute never travelled by a White Man — Eosako, the Frontier Village of Uk-nere- Impiu^tin(nt Curiosity of the Wagogo — My Watch-dog "Omar" — T'le Iisect Tribe — Tlf Tsetse Fly— The Chut wa Fly: its voracity — Commencement of the Masika, or Rainy Season — Death of Arab Horse — Interview with Chief of Kingaru— Death of Bay Horse — March to Imbiki — Arrival at Msuwa — Jungle troubles — Chained Slave-gang — Kisemo — The Belles of Kisemo — Desertion of Khamesi : his punishment — Crossing the Ungerengeri — The Capital, Useguhha Simbamwenni — The Sultana — Stormy Dispute with Shaw — African Ague — Visit from the Sultana . . . Pages 69 to 12C

Chapter V. To Ugogo

The Rainy Season — Innumerable Hosts of Creeping Things — Crossing the Ungerengeri — The Flogging of Bunder Salaam : he is Lost : his Discovery — Soldiers imprisoned by the Sultana— The Makata Wilderness — Desertion and Capture of Soldier — Terrible Difficulties in crossing the Makata Swamp — Encampment at Usagara — Shaw's Letter to Farquhar — Farquliar's Reply— His extravagant Expenditure — Shaw's Dilatoriness — Novel mode of using a Cart — Lake Ugombo — Shaw and Farquhar at Breakfast — Shaw "measures his length" on the ground — Asks for his Discharge — He Repents — A Shot fired through my Tent — Farquhar left behind at Mpwapwa — Abdullah bin Nasib — Scenery of Mpwapwa . . . Pages 121 to 170

CHAPTER VI. THROUGH MARENGA MKALI, UGOGO, UYANZl, TO UNYANYEMBK

Arrival at Chunyo — Bitter Water — Marenga Mkali — No Water for Thirty-six Hours — A Dangerous Fever attack — Arrival

CONTENTS, Ix

at Ugogo — Furio'is Mob — Plentiful Supplies at Mvinni — Tribute to the Great Sultan — The Sultan of Matamburu — March to Bihaw;ina — ^Whipping the Wagogo — Visit from the Sultan of Mizanza — The Wahumba a fine Eace — Arrival at Mukonduku — Departure — Counsel with Arabs as to Eoute — Dispute and Separation from them — They follow — Ugogo proves to be a Land of Gall and Bitterness — Arrival at Kiti — Sultan bin Mohammed — Halt at Kusuri — Thief shot — Mudfsh — Uubuga in Eulis — i\.mir bin {>ulta;i — Crossing tho Mtcni --Arii^al ill Unyanyeoabe • . • • PagQj 171 to 212

Chapter VII. Geographical And Ethnographical Remarks

Pages 223 to 257

Chapter VIII. Life In Unyanyembe

Hospitality of the Governor, Sayd bin Salim — Comfortable Quarters — Tabora, the principal Arab Settlement — Mirambo, Chief of Uyoweh — His Depredations — A Council of "War — The Livingstone Caravan found — Terrible attack of Fever — March for Ujiji — Arrival at Masangi — Shaw taken 111— Join the Arab Army at Mfuto — Fi^ht with Mirambo — Capture of the Village of Zimbizo — Fever again — Defeat and great Slaughter of the Arabs by Mirambo — Retreat to Mfuto . . Pages 258 to 286

Chapter IX. Life In Unyanyembe

The Arabs Retreat to Tabora — I proceed — Arrival at Kwihara — Try another Eoute — My Position most Serious — Death of Farquhar reported — Defeat of the Arabs at Tabora — Khamis bin Abdullah slain — Tabora in Flames — Preparations for Defence — The Philosopher Sheikh bin Nasib — I determine to lead a Flying Caravan to Ujiij — Death of Baruti — Men dispirited — The little Boy Kalulu — His baptism — Mirambo attacks Mfuto, and is defeated — Selim Delirious from constant Fevers — Two Guides, Asmani and Mabruki — My Eesolution to find Livingstone Pages 287 to 809

I CONTENTS.

CHAPTEK X.

TO WRERA, UKONONGO.

Start from Kwiliara — Bombay gets a Thrashing — Shaw wishes to stay behind — I compel him to go on — Another Fever attack — Livingstone's Letter-carrier missing — Arrival at Kasegera — Shaw gives in, and is sent back to Kwihara — The splendid Forests of Unyamwezi — We reach Ugnnda — The Mukungnru — Description of this Fever — A magnificent Sycamore — A Victim to Small-pox — Numerous Skeletons found on the Eoad-side — Arrival at Manyara — Dispute as to Tribute with the Sultan — Visit from him — A Dose of Concentrated Ammonia — The Sultan's Astonishment — The Hunter's Paradise — My first Game, an Antelope shot — Zebra-stalking — Adventure with a Crocodile — Two Days' Hunting — Mutiny — Asmani and Mabruki present their Guns at me — Peace restored — Bombay Thrashed again, and put in Chains — Characters of the Principal Men — Arrival at Ziwani — The Honey-Bird — Utende — Mwaru — Arrival at Mrera — Shoe-mending . , • Pages 310 to 360

. CHAPTEE XL

THROUGH UKAWENDL, UVINZA, AND UHHA, TO UJIJI.

Departure from Mrera — Camp in the Jungle — I sink to my Neck in the Ooze of the Eungwa — The Mpokwa Eiver — The Home of the Lion first seen — A Troop of Monkeys — Adventure with a huge Wild Boar — Followed by a Lion — A Day of great Troubles — A Buffalo shot — A Leopard — Buffalo-stalking — Famine stares us in the face — Welled Nzogera's — Food plentiful — A Donkey sinks in the Morass — Embassy to Chief Kiala — Seven Hours of Talk — On the Banks of the Malagarazi — Our Donkey " Simba " seized and carried away by a Crocodile — News or Livingstone! — Halt at Kawanga — Disputes about Tribute — Exorbitant Demands — We cross the Pombwe and the Kanengi Eivers — A Midnight March through the Jungle — A Crazy Woman almost betrays us by yelling — Thunder from the Tanganika — On the Banks of the Eugufu — Niamfaga — The Tanganika! Hurrah! Unfurl the Flags ! — Susi, Dr. Livingstone's Servant, says, " Good-morning, Sir !" — " Dr. Living- BTONE, I PRESUME ?" " Tes \" — CoHversation with the Doctor ^Good-tight Pages 361 to 419

CONTENTS. iJ

CHAPTER XIL INTERCOURSE WITH LIVINGSTONE AT UJIJI.

Summary from my Note-book of Livingstone's Travels

Pages 420 to 474

CHAPTER XIIL

OUR CRUISE ON THE TANGANIKA.

Oni Ship, a cranky Canoe — Enormous Dog-nosed Monkey — The Fishermen of the Tanganika — The Zassi River and Tillage — Soundings of the Lake — Nyabigma Island — Disturbed at Supper — Hostility of the Natives — War between Mukamba and Warumashanya — A Mgwana asserts that the Rusizi flows out of the Lake — I am struck down by Fever — Nursed by the Doctor — The Mgwana's Report contradicted by Mukamba — Swarms of Crocodiles — Ruhinga's Information — The Head of the Lake and the Mouth of the Rusizi — The Question, Was the Rusizi an Effluent or Influent, answered for ever — The Doctor still believes in an Outlet — Burton and Speke's Extreme Point — Signs of Disturbance in Mruta's Village — " New York Herald Islets " — Cape Luvumba — A Fight about to Commence — The Sultan Pacified — A serio-comic Scene — Return to Ujiji

Pages 476 to 515

CHAPTER XIV.

GEOGRAPHICAL AND ETHNOGRAPHICAL REMARKS.

Pages 516 to 567

CHAPTER XV.

OUR JOURNEY TO UNYANYEMBEL

Chat with Livingstone over the Licidents of the " Pic-nic ** — The Doctor declines to return Home until his Work is done — Blames Dr. Kirk for sending him Slaves, and commanding them to bring him back — Recovery of his Enfield Rifles — The Doctor resolves to accompany me to Unyanyembe — Attack oC Remittent Fever— How we spent Christmas-day— Departure from Ujiji — Our Voyage down the Tanganika — Arrival at, and crossing the Liuche — Crossing the Malagarazi — ^No Current in the Tanganika — Arrival at Urimba — Zebra-shooting — The Valley of Loajeri — Bufialo Cow shot — Confronting an Elephant — Travellers* Tales — Red-bearded Monkeys— Magdala sighted xi! CONTENTS.

—The Valley of Imrera — The Doctor foot-sore — Herds of Game in Mpokwa Plain — Two Zebras shot — A Herd of Giraffe — Giraffe wounded — Ibrahim's Slave Ulimengo absconds — Latitude of Mpokwa — Zinc Canteens converted into Bullets — Giraffe brought down therewith — Start for Misonghi — The Doctor dreadfully Stung by Wild Bees — Mirambo famished — Death of Shaw — Incidents in the Career and Death of Robert Livingstone — A Lion in the Grass— A Triplet of Lions — Arrival at Ugunda — Oaptire of tho Deserter, Hamdallah— • Arrival at Unyaiyembe . . • . Pagej 558 to 607

CHAPTER XVL HOMEWARD BOUND.

Livingstone's Stores opened — Found to be a Delusion — Asmani found Guilty — White Ants consuming the Brandy and replacing the Corks ! — The Goods turned over to Dr. Livingstone — He writes his Letters home — His Letter to James G. Bennett —Native Song — Last Night with Livingstone — His Journal sealed up — Our final Departure — Farewell — Halt at Tura — Letters from the Doctor — Arrival at Kiwyeh — Wagogo War Horns sounding everywhere — Full Fighting Costume — A false Alarm— Khonze Chief resists our Advance — Preparation for a Fight — Mnyamwezi seized by the Throat, and Peace restored — Arrival at Kanyenyi— Visit from the Sultan — The Village of Mapanga— Sudden Rush of Armed Natives— Forty Spears against Forty Guns — ^^Tribute Demanded and Paid — Leucole's Account of Farquhar's Death— The Valley of the Mukondokwa — Privation from the Masika — Awful Floods — Fighting Swarms of Mosquitoes — The Doctor's Despatch-Box in Jeopardy — Dragged through the River by Ropes — Arrival at Simbamwenni —The Wall swept away — Terrific Storm — Destruction of One Hundred Villages — The Msunva Jungle — Its Horrors— "Hot-water " Ants — News from Zanzibar — Arrival at Bagamoyo — The meeting with the Livingstone Search and Relief Expedition ..,•••• Pages 608 to 657

CHAPTER XVIL VALEDICTORY • . . . . , • • Pages 658 to 692

APPENDIX . Pages 693 to 719

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

<^ull-page |lIustratioits.

t. Portrait of James Gordon Bennett, Esq.

2. A VIEW OF Zanzibar

3. A VIEW OF Bagamoyo

4. Simbamwenni — "The Lion City*

5. Discomforts of African travel— Tue Makata

Swamp ....

6. Shaw's mode of marching

7. 'J he Lake and Peak of Ugumdo

8. Mount Kidwe, and the Valley of the Mukon-

dokwa J'iver .

9. We attack Mirambo , •

10. View of Kwihara

11. Ma-manyara takes medicine

12. The mutiny on the Gomi>e Eiver

14. The wounded boar comes to a halt

15. "Dr. Livingstone, I presume?"

16. Our lev^e at Magala, Urundi

17. At the mouth of the Kuslzi

' il'ot-pourri — arms, implements, and pipes 19. )

20. Dr. Livingstone at work on his journal

21. On Lakk Tanganika— homeward bound

22. " He is shot ! He is shot !" — shooting a buf-

falo cow .....

23. A surprise

24. A lion in the grass

25. Mv HOUSE IN Kwihara, Unyanyembe

26. The Wagogo on the war path

27. Symptoms of a fight .

28. " Look out 1 You drop that box — Fll shoot

you" • to face Introduct to lace lage at pages 544 and to face page

ION.

3 41 115

135 1^2 154

563 567

680 602

ei2

632 636

64:^

Smaller |Ilnstralions.

1. View of Bagamoyo

2. Portrait of Bombay and Mabruki •

3. Woman gsindisg cobn . . •

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS,

4. Portrait of Shaw and Farquhab

5. Our camp at Chunyo

6. Mgogo man and woman . ,

7. a gate of a village , , 6. wsapons of war 9. Youthful Wasagara . ,

10. Bird's-eye view of a tembe

11. View in front of my tembe ,

12. Group of Wanyamwezi . ,

13. Gigantic sycamore and camp .

14. View in Uvinza

15. Village in Uzavira — native pottery

16. Our house in Ujiji

17. View on Lake Tanganika

18. Susi, the servant of Livingstone

19. Ujiji cow, Unyamwezi cow, pariah dog, and

20. The fishes of the '1'anganika .

22. Daggers and spear-heads ,

23. Our camp at Urimba . ,

24. Making the most of a halt ,

25. The Memorial fat-tailed sheep

PAGE

121 171 223

Map of Eastern Central Africa — Frontispiece.

Plan of Central Unyanyembe to face page 259.

Plan of water system in page 229.

Sketch map of Livingstone's discoveries to face page 449.

Survey of northern half of Tanganika to face page 475.

Small sketch map of Livingstone's discoveries to face page 1.

EERATA.

la^e Wini for read

•29 et passinif line 25, &c. . Syed ...... Seyd.

G^, 63 passim O'Reilly Reilly.

tdl et passim, line 13, <tc. . Sarmian . ... Sarmean.

142 29 baughy banghy.

1G6 19 quahary Kwaheri.

171 10 (col. 1) .... Manieka Munieka.

237 20 representations . . . representatives,

245 plate ..••.. MukandokAWi .... Mukondokwa.

330 18 . . • • • . . stamped tamped.

841 33 O'Reilly Reilly.

370 33 its his

g91 6 has not spoken . . . has spoken.

C08 3* • • • . • • insert ^* of at beginning of line.

JAHES GOKDON BENNETT, ESQ.

Propnetor of the ''New York Herald:'

mTRODUCTORY.

On" the sixteentli day of October, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine, I am in Madrid, fresh from the carnage at Valencia. At 10 a.m. Jacopo, at No. — Calle de la Cruz, hands me a telegram : on opening it I find it reads, " Come to Paris on important business." The telegram is from Jas. Gordon Bennett, jun., the young manager of the " New York Herald."

Down come my pictures from the walls of my apartments on the second floor ; into my trunks go my books and souvenirs, my clothes are hastily collected, some half washed, some from the clothes-line half dry, and after a couple of hours of hasty hard work my portmanteaus are strapped up, and labelled for " Paris."

The express-train leaves Madrid for Hendaye at 3 P.M. I have yet time to say farewell to my friends. I have one at No. 6 Calle Goya, fourth floor, who happens to be a contributor to several London dailies. lie has several children, in whom 1 have taken a warm xri INTRODUCTORY,

interest. Little Charlie and Willie are fast friends of mine ; they love to hear of my adventures, and it has been a pleasure to me to talk to them. But now I must say farewell.

Then I have friends at the United States Legation whose conversation I admire — there has come a sudden ending of it all. " I hope you will write to us, we shall always be glad to hear of your welfare." How often have I not during my feverish life as a flying journalist heard the very same words, and how often have I not suffered the same pang at parting from fj'iends just as warm as these.

But a journalist in my position must needs suffer. Like a gladiator in the arena, he must be prepared foi the combat. Any flinching, any cowardice, and he is lost. The gladiator meets the sword that is sharpened for his bosom — tlie flying journalist or roving correspondent meets the command that may send him to his doom. To the battle or the banquet it is ever the s>une — " Get ready and go."

At 3 P.M. I was on my way, and being obliired to stop at Bayonne a few hours, did not arrive at Paris until the following night. I went straight to the ** Grand Hotel," and knocked at the door of Mr. Bennett's room.

** Come in," I heard a voice say.

Entering, I found Mr. Bennett in bed.

" Who are you ?" he asked.

" My name is Stanley!" I answered.

INTRODUCTORY. xvil

" All, yes ! sit down ; I have important business on hand for you."

After throwing over his shoulders his robe-de-chambre, Mr. Bennett asked, " Where do you think Livingstone is ?"

" I really do not know, sir !"

" Do you think he is alive ?'*

" He may be, and he may not bo !" I answered.

*' Well, I think he is alive, and that he can be found, and I am going to send you to find him."

*' What !" said I, " do you really think I can find Dr. Livingstone ? Do you mean me to go to Central Africa ?"

" Yes ; I mean that you shp.ll go, and find him wherever you may hear that he is, and to get vvhat news you can of him, and perhaps'* — delivering himse.f thoughtfully and deliberately — '^ the old man may be in want : — take enough with you to help him should he require it. Of course you will act according to your own plans, and do what you think best — but find Livingstone!

Said I, wondering at the cool order of sending one to Central Africa to search for a man whom I, in common with almost all other men, believed to be dead, '* have you considered seriously the great expense you are likely to incur on account of this little journey ?"

" What will it cost ?" he asked, abruptly.

" Burton and Speke*s journey to Central Africa cost between £3,000 and £5,000, and I fear it cannot be done under £2,500."

xviii INTRODUCTORY.

" Well, I will tell you what you will do. Draw a thousand pounds now ; and when you have gone through that, draw another thousand, and when that is spent, draw another thousand, and when you have finished that, draw another thousand, and so on ; but, FIND Livingstone.

Surprised but not confused at the order, for I knew that Mr. Bennett when once he had made up his mind was not easily drawn aside from his purpose, I yet thought, seeing it was such a gigantic scheme, that he had not quite considered in his own mind the pros and cons of the case ; I said, " I have heard that should your father die you would sell the ' Herald ' and retire from business."

'' Whoever told you that is wrong, for there is not money enough in New York city to buy the ' New York Herald.' My father has made it a great paper, but I mean to make it greater. I mean that it shall be a news paper in the true sense of the word. I mean that it shall publish whatever news will be interesting to the world at no matter what cost."

" After that," said I, " I have nothing more to say. Do you mean me to go straight on to Africa to search for Dr. Livingstone ?"

" No ! I wish you to go to the inauguration of the Suez Canal first and then proceed up the Nile. I hear Baker is about starting for Upper Egypt. Find out what you can about his expedition, and as you go up describe as well as possible whatever is interesting for

INTBODUCTORY. xix

tourists ; and tlien write up a guide — a practical one — for Lower Egypt, tell us about whatever is worth seeing and how to see it.

" Then you might as well go to Jerusalem ; I hear Captain Warren is making some interesting discoveries there. Then visit Constantinople, and find out about that trouble between the Khedive and the Sultan.

"Then— let me see — you might as well visit the Crimea and those old battle-giounds. Then go across the Caucasus to the Caspian Sea, I hear there is a Eussian expedition bound for Khiva. From thence you may get through Persia to India ; you could write an interesting letter from Fersepolis.

" Bagdad will be close on your way to India ; suppose you go there, and write up something about the Euphrates Yalley Railway. Then, when you have come to India, you can go after Livingstone. Probably you will hear by that time that Livingstone is on his way to Zanzibar ; but if not, go into the interior and find him, if alive. Get what news of his discoveries you can ; and, if you find he is dead, bring all possible proofs of his being dead. That is all. Good-night, and God be with you."

" Good-night, sir," I said ; " what it is in the power of human nature to do I will do ; and on such an errand as I go upon, God will be with me."

I lodged with young Edward King, who is making such a name in New England. He was just the man who would have delighted to tell the Journal he waa

XX INTRODUCTORY.

engaged upon what young Mr. Bennett was doing, and what errand I was bound upon.

I should have liked to exchange opinions with him upon the probable results of my journey, but I dared not do so. Though oppressed with tbe great task before me, I had to appear as if only going to be present at the Suez Canal. Young King followed me to the express- train bound for Marseilles, and at the station we parted — he to go, and read the newspapers at Bowles' Reading-room— I to Central Africa and — who knows ?

There is no need to recapitulate what I did before going to Central Africa.

I went up the Nile, and s^v7 Mr. Higginbotha-H, chief-engineer in Baker's Expedition, at Philae, and was the means of prev^enting a duel between him and a mad young Fienchman, who wanted to fight Mr. Higginbotham with pistols, because that gentleman resented the idea of being taken for an Egyptian, through wearing a fez cap. I had a talk with Capt. Warren at Jerusalem, and descended one of the pits with a sergeant of engineers to see the marks of the Tyrian workmen on the foundation stones of the Temple of Solomon. I visited the mosques of Stamboul with the Minister Resident of the United States, and the American Consul General. I travelled over the Crimean battle-grounds with Kinglake's glorious books for reference in my hand. I dined with tbe widow of General Liprandi at Odessa. I saw the Arabian

INTRODUCTORY, xxi

traveller Palgrave at TrebizoPid, and Bnroii Nicolay, the Civil Governor of the Caucasus, at Tiflis. I lived with the Russian Ambassador while at Teheran, and wherever I went through Persia I received the most hospitable welcome from the gentlemen of the Indo- Earopean Telegraph Company ; and following the examples of many illustrious men, I wrote my name apon one of the Persepolitan monuments. In the month of August, 1870, I arrived i^i India.

On the 12th of October I sailed on the barque " Polly " from Bombay to Mauritius. As the " Polly " was a slow sailer,- the passage lasted &irty-seven days. On board this barqus was a William Lawrence Farquhar— hailing f^xm Leith, Scotland — in the capacity of first-mate. He was an excellent navigator, and thinking he might be useful to ma, I employed him ; his pay to begin from the date we should leave Zanzibar for Bagamoyo. As there was no opportunity of getting to Zanzibar direct, I took ship to Seychelles. Three or four days after arriving at Mahe, one of the Seychelles group, I was fortunate enough to get a passage for myself, William Lawrence Farquhar, and Selim — a Christian Arab boy of Jerusalem, who was to act as interpreter — on board an American whaling vessel, bound for Zanzibar, at which port we arrived on the 6th of January, 1871.

I have skimmed over my travels thus far, because these do not concern the reader. They led over many lands, but this book is only a narrative of my search xxil INTRODUCTORY

after Livingstone, the great African traveller. It is an Icarian flight of journalism, I confess; some even have called it Quixotic ; but this is a word I can now refute, as will be seen before the reader arrives at the " Finis."

I have used the word " soldiers " in this book. The armed escort a traveller engages to accompany him into East Africa is composed of free black men, natives of Zanzibar, or freed slaves from the interior, who call themselves " askari," an Indian name which, translated, means '' soldiers." They are armed and equipped like soldiers, though they engage themselves also as servants ; but it would be more pretentious in me to call them servants^ than to use the word '* soldiers ;" and as I have been more in the habit of calling them soldiers, than my watuma — servants — this habit has proved too much to be overcome. I have therefore allowed the word " soldiers " to appear, accompanied, however, with this apology,

I have also used the personal pronoun first person singular, " I," oftener, perhaps, than real modesty would admit.

But it must be remembered that 1 am writing a narrative of my own adventures and travels, and that until I meet Livingstone, I presume the greatest interest is attached to myself, my marches, my troubles, my thoughts, and my impressions. Yet though I may sometimes write, " my expedition," or **my caravan," it by no means follows that I arrogate to myself this

INTRODUCTORY. xxiii

right. For it must be distinctly understood that it is the " * New York Herald ' Expedition," and that I am only charged with its command by Mr. James Gordon Bennett, the proprietor of the ' New York Herald,' as a salaried employe of that gentleman.

One thing more ; I have adopted the narrative form of relating the story of the search, on account of the greater interest it appears to possess over the diary form, and I think that in this manner I avoid the great fault of repetition for which some travellers have been severely criticised.

Having explained so much, I do not think it necessary to say any more in the Introduction, and shall therefore commence my narrative.

HENRY M. STANLEY.

8, Duchess Street, Portland Flaoe^ London, Odd)er, 1872.

.yeT6t-<

S.ier<*:

HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTONE.

Chapter I. Zanzibar

One of the fruitfulest islands of the Indian Ocean is Zanzibar. When I left Bombay for the purpose of leading the ' New York Herald ' expedition into the unknown heart of Africa, my abstract conception of the island was that it was but a little better than a great sandbar, or a patch of Sahara, with a limited oasis or two, surrounded by the sea, rife with cholera, fever, and nameless but dreadful diseases ; populated by ignorant blacks, with great thick lips, whose general appearance miglii be compared to Du Chaillu's gorillas, who were ruled over by a despotic and surly Arab.

How it had become thus distorted in my imagination I cannot conceive. I had read books and articles on Zanzibar, which were by no means unfavourably disposed towards it, yet it floated in my brain as an island whose total submersion in the sea would benefit the world. I am not certain, but I think I caught the idea from Capt. Burton's 'Lake Eegions of Central Africa,' along with many other eccentric ideas. The whole book, although wonderfully clever and truthful,

B is somewhat bilious in tone, and I think its effect was manifest in me by a rush of a part of its bile into my head, for while I read it I saw a lethal stream, which drifted with me towards the eternal feverish region of Africa, from which a sickening presentiment said there was no return. But hail ! to the blessed dawn that dispels the dreadful dream under which you groaned in agony throughout the night. Hail ! to the letter that brings good news, and hail ! to the verdant shores of Zanzibar, that said to me^ " Hope ; things are seldom so bad as they are painted."

It was in the early morning tliat I sailed through the channel that separates Zanzibar from Africa. The high lands of the continent loomed like a lengthening shadow in the grey of dawn. The island lay on our left, distant but a mile, coming out of its shroud of foggy folds, bit by bit as the day advanced, until it finally rose clearly into view, as fair in appearance as the fairest of the gems of creation. It appeared low, but not flat ; there were gentle elevations cropping hither and yon above the languid but graceful tops of the cocoa-trees that lined the margin of the island, and there were depressions visible at agreeable intervals, to indicate where a cool gloom might be found by those who sought relief from a hot sun. With the exception of the thin line of sand, over which the sap-green water rolled itself with a constant murmur and moan, the island seemed buried under one deep stratum of verdure.