Lake Ngami, or, Explorations and discoveries : during four years' wanderings in the wilds of South Western Africa.

Preface

The following Narrative of Explorations and Discoveries during four years in the wilds of the South-Western parts of Afiica, contains an account of two expeditions in that continent hetween the years 1850 and 1854. In the first of these journeys, the countries of the Damaras (previously all but unknown in Em-ope) and of the Ovambo (till now a terra incognitct) were explored ; in the second, the newly-discovered Lake Ngami, was reached by a route that had always been deemed unpracticable. It is more than probable that this route (the shortest and best) will be adopted as the one by which commerce and civilization may eventually find theu' way to the Lake regions.

The first joiu'ney was performed in company with Mr. Francis Galton, to whom we are indebted for a work on ' Tropical South Afiica;' on the second, the Author was alone, and altogether dependent on his own very scanty resources.

It was suggested to the Author, as regards the first journey, that firom the ground having been pre-occupied, it would be best for him to commence where his fiiend left ofp. There was some reason for this. But, on mature consideration, he deemed it desirable to start fi-om the besinnino^ : otherwise, he could not have given a connected and detailed account of the regions he visited. Moreover, fi'om the Author ha\ing remained two years longer in Africa than Mr. Galton, he has not only been enabled to

a

IV

PREFACE.

ascertain the tmtli respecting mucli that at first appeared obscure and doubtful, but has bad many opportunities of enlarging the stock of information acquired by himself and friend when together. Besides, they were often separated for long periods, during which many incidents and adventm-es occurred to the Author that are scarcely alluded to in ' Tropical South Africa.' And, lastly, the impressions received by different individuals, even under similar chcumstances, are generally foimd to vary greatly ; which, in itself, would be a sufficient reason for the course the Author has decided on pm'suing.

As will be seen, the present writer has not only described the general appearance of the regions he \isited, but has given the best information he was able to collect of the geological features of the country, and of its probable mineral wealth ; and, shght though it may be, he had the gratification of finding that the hints he threw out at the Cape and elsewhere, were acted upon ; that mining companies were formed, and that mining operations are now carried on to some extent in regions heretofore considered as utterly worthless.

The Author has also spoken, at some length, of the rehgion and manners and customs of such of the native tribes (previously all but unknown to Eiu'opeans) visited by liim dm'ing his several journeys. He also noted many of theu' superstitions ; for, too much attention, as it has been truly observed, cannot be paid to the mythological traditions of savages. Considerable discretion is, of com'se, needful in this matter ; as, if every portion were to be hterally received, we might be led into grievous errors. Still, by attending to what many might call absurd superstitions, we not only attain to a knowledge of the mental tendencies of the natives, but are made acquainted vdth interesting facts touching the geographical distribution of men and inferior animals.

Since the different members constituting the brute creation are so intunately connected with the economy of man, and since many of the beasts and birds indigenous to those parts of Afiica visited by the Author, are still but imperfectly known, he has thought it advisable to enter largely into their habits, &c. ; the rather, as natural history has, fi-om childhood, been his favourite pursuit, and is a subject on which he therefore feels conversant. And though part of what he has stated regarding the rhinoceros, the hippopotamus, the

PREFACE.

V koodoo, the ostrich, and others of the almost incalculable varieties of animals found in the African wilderness, may be known to some inquirers, it is still hoped that the general reader will find matter he has not previously met with.

The larger portion of the beautiful plates to be found in this work (faithfully depicting the scenes described) are by Mr. Wolf — ' the Landseer of animals and vegetation,' to quote the words of the Earl of EUesmere in a note which his lordship did me the honour to write to me.

The Author has endeavoured in the following pages, faithfully, and in plain and unassuming language, to record his experiences, impressions, feelings, and impulses, under circumstances oflen peculiarly trying. He lays claim to no more credit than may attach to an earnest desire to make himself useful, and to further the cause of science.

It is more than probable that his career as an explorer and pioneer to ci\TLhzation and commerce is terminated. Still, he would fain hope that his himible exertions may not be without their fruits.

When he first arrived in Africa, he generally travelled on foot throughout the whole of the day, regardless of heat, and almost scorning the idea of riding on horse-back, or using any other mode of conveyance. Indeed, he was wont to vie with the natives in endurance ; but now, owing to the severe hardships he has undergone, his constitution is undermined, and the foimdation of a malady has been laid that it is feared he will carry with him to the day of his death Yet, such is the perverseness of human nature, that, did circumstances permit, he would return to this life of trial and privation.

a 2

LITHOGRAPHS.

PAGE

1. Lions pulling down Giraffe. — Sketched and drawn on Stone by

J. Wolf To face Title

2. Damaras . . . Sketched by Edm. Walker, and

drawn on Stone by Brand ard 49

3. The Lucky Escape . . Sketched and drawn on Stone by

4. Shooting Trap . . „ „ „ 126

5. Ovamho .... Sketched by Edm. Walker, and

drawn on Stone byBRANDARD 196

6. Unwelcome Hunting Com- ^ Sketched and drawn on Stone by

panions . . . j J. Wolf .... 213

7. Coursing Young Ostriches . ,, „ • 253

8. Oryx or Gemsbok . . „ „ „ 279

9. Chasing the Eland . . „ „ „ 381

10. The Approach of Elephants ,, „ „ 414

11. More Close than Agreeable „ „ „ 422

12. Desperate Situation . . „ „ „ 424

13. Nahong and Leche . . „ „ „ 448

15. Bay eye .... Sketched by Mr. Charles Bell,

and drawn on Stone by Bran- DARD 502

16. Harpooning Hippopotamus Sketched and drawn on Stone by

J. Wolf . . . .521 The above Illustrations are lithographed by M. and N. Hanhart.

17. Map. — Drawn by E. Eavenstein, and lithographed by Schenck

and M^Farlane to face 536

LIST OF WOOD ENGRAVINGS.

Malay 7 1

View of Walfisch Bay . . 13 J-

Hill-Damara Pipe ... 80 J

Fan Palm 1 65 1

Ovambo Pipe 172 j

„ Dagger and Sheath . 173 |

Basket forMerchan- y

dize 174 I

Otjikoto Fountain . . . 180

10. Interview with King Nangoro 193

11. Ovambo Beer-Cup and Beer-

Spoon

12. Ovambo Guitar . . .

13. ., Meat Dish . .

14. Dwelling house and Corn stores

15. View in Ondonga . .

1 6. Ovambo Blacksmiths at work

17. Damara Grave . .

18. Jonker Afrikaner . . .

19. Wild Boar's Head . .

236 !

Sketched by the Author, drawn on wood, and engraved by Pearson.

Sketched by Major Robert Garden, drawn on wood, and engraved by Dalziel.

Drawn on wood, and engraved by Pearson.

Sketched by the Author, drawn on wood, and engraved by Dalziel.

Sketched by Major Robert Garden, drawn on wood, and engraved by Dalziel.

Sketched by the Author, drawn on wood, and engraved by Dalziel.

Sketched by Major Robert

Garden, drawn on wood, and

engraved by Dalziel.

Drawn on wood by Palmer, and

engraved by Pearson.

Sketched by the Author, drawn

on wood, and engraved by

Dalziel.

viii

LIST OF WOOD ENGRAVINGS.

PAGE

1 Sketched by J. Wolf, drawn on

20. Skull of a Bechuana Ox .317 \ woo^ by Palmer, and engraved

J by Pearson.

oi J 7^ 7 1 Drawn on wood, and engraved

21. Bacre s Pulpit .... 346 \ ^

) by Dalziel.

TIT Ti o . 1 Drawn on wood by Palsier, and

22. Negro Boy 35 1 >

J engraved by Pearson.

23. Pit-falls 376 ) Drawn on wood, and engraved

24. Heads of Rhinoceroses . . 386 / by Dalziel.

25. Horns of Rhinoceros Oswellii 388

} Drawn on wood, and engraved by Dalziel.

27. The Bechuana Picho . 454 Drawn on wood by Palmer, and

28. Ascending the Teoge . . . 479 ) engraved by Pearson.

29. Tsetse Fly 489 I engraved

J by Dalziel.

31 Medal 516 I ■'^^^^^^ wood by Palivier, and

on T7- . ZT 1 o ( enojraved by Pearson.

32. Hippopotamus Harpoon . . 518 J °

33. The Reed Raft and Har- \ Drawn on wood, and engraved

pooners 520 -» by Dalziel.

34. The Spear 521 I ^■"^^^ wood, and engraved

J by Pearson.

35. Egyptians and Hippopotamus 523 1

] Sketched by Mr. Alex. Keiller, 38. The Downfall .... 528 >- drawn on w^ood by Palmer,

J and engraved by Pearson.

I Drawn on wc

40. Signal Station at Cape Town 536 J Dalziel.

39. Author and Steed broken ]

^^^^ \^ Drawn on wood, and engraved

CONTENTS-

Chapter 1

Departure from Sweden — Day Dreams — Fraternal Love — A Tempting Offer — Preparations for Journey to Africa — Departure from England— Arrival at the Cape — Town and Inhabitants — Table Mountain— Curious Legend — Preparation for Journey into the Interior — Departure for Walfisch Bay . . . . 1 — 12

CHAPTER n.

Arrival at "Walfisch Bay — Scenery — Harbour Described — Want of Water — Capabilities for Trade — Fish — W^ild Fowl — Mirage — Sand Fountain — The Bush-tick — The Naras — Quadrupeds Scarce — ^Meeting the Hottentots — Their Filthy Habits — The Alarum — The Turn Out — Death of a Lion — Arrival at Scheppmansdorf — the Place described — Mr. Bam — ^Missionary Life — Ingratitude of Natives — Missionary Waggons ...... 13 — 28

Chapter III

Preparations for Journey — Breaking-in Oxen — Departure from Scheppmansdorf— An Infuriated Ox — The Naarip Plain — The Scarlet Flower — The Usab Gorge — The Swakop River — Tracks of Rhinoceros Seen — Anecdote of that Animal — A Sunrise in the Tropics — Sufferings from Heat and Thirst — Arrival at Daviep : great Resort of Lions — A Horse and Mule killed by them — The Author goes in Pursuit — A Troop of Lions — Unsuccessful Chase — Mules' Flesh Palatable 29—42

Chapter IV

The Gnoo and the Gemsbok — Pursuit of a Rhinoceros — Venomous Fly — Fruit of the Acacia Nutritious — Sun-stroke — Crested Parrot — A Giraffe Shot — ^Tjobis Fountain — Singular Omelet^ — Nutritious Gum — Arrival at Richterfeldt — Mr. Rath and the Missions — The Damaras : their Persons, Habits, &c. — Lions Troublesome — Panic — Horse Sickness . 43 — 55

X

Chapter V

Haus Larsen — His Exploits — He joins the Expedition — How People travel on Ox-back — Rhinoceros Hunt — Death of the Beast — ' Look Before You Leap' — Anecdote proving the Truth of the Proverb — Hans and the Lion — The Doctor in Difficulties — Sufferings on the Naarip Plain — Arrival at Scheppmansdorf . 56 — 64

Chapter VI

Return to vScheppmansdorf — Training Oxen for the Yoke — Sporting — The Flamingo — The Butcher Bird : curious Superstition regarding it — ^Preparing for Journey — Servants described . 65 — 72

CHAPTER Vn.

Departure from Scheppmansdorf — Cattle refractory at Starting — Tineas — Always Travel by Night — Rhinoceros Hunt — The Author in Danger of a Second Sun-stroke — Reach Onanis — A Tribe of Hill- Damaras settled there — Singular Manner in which these People smoke — Effects of the Weed — The Euphorbia Candelabrum — Remarkable Properties of this Vegetable Poison — Guinea Fowl : the best Manner of shooting them — Meet a Troop of Giraffes — Tjobis Fountain again — Attacked by Lions — Providential Escape — Arrival at Richterfeldt 73—86

CHAPTER Vm.

A hearty Welcome — We remove the Encampment — An Apparition — Audacity of Wild Beasts — Depriving Lions of their Prey — Excessive Heat — Singular Effects of great Heat — Depart for Barmen — ^jNleet a Troop of Zebras — Their Flesh not equal to Venison — The Missionary's Wail — A Sad Catastrophe — The 'Kameel-doorn' — Buxton Fountain — The Scorpion — Arrival at Barmen . . 87 — 98

CHAPTER rS.

Barmen — Thunder-storm in the Tropics — A Man Killed by Lightning — Warm Spring — jSIr. Hahn : his INIissionary Labour ; Seed sown in Exceeding Stony Ground — The Lake Omanbonde — ^ISIr. Galton's Mission of Peace — The Author meets a Lion by the way ; the Beast bolts — Singular Chase of a Gnoo — ' Killing Two Birds with One Stone' — A Lion Hunt — The Author escapes Death by a JVIiracle — Consequences of shooting on a Sunday , . • 99 — 111

CHAPTER X.

A Christmas in the Desert — ^Mr. Galton's Return from the Erongo Mountain — He passes numerous Villages — Great Drought; the

COOTENTS .

xi

Natives have a Choice of Two Evils — The Hill-Damaras — The Damaras a Pastoral People — The Whole Country Public Property — Enormous Herds of Cattle — They are as destructive as Locusts to the Vegetation — Departure from Richterfeldt — The Author kills an Oryx — The Oxen refractory — Danger of traversing dry Watercourses on the Approach of the Rainy Season — ^Message from the Robber-Chief Jonker — Emeute amongst the Servants — Depart for Schmelen's Hope . 112—119

CHAPTER XI.

Schmelen's Hope — Scenery — ^IMissionary Station — Raid of the Namaquas — Ingratitude . of the Natives — Jonker's Feud with Kahichene ; his Barbarities ; his Treachery — IMr. Galton departs for Eikhams — Author's successful Sporting Excursions — He captures a young Steinbok and a Koodoo — ^They are easily Domesticated — Hyaenas very troublesome; several destroyed by Spring-Guns — The latter described — Visit from a Leopard; it wounds a Dog; Chase and Death of the Leopard— The Caracal . . . 120—129

CHAPTER Xn.

Wild Fowl abundant — The great Bustard — The Termites — AYild Bees — Mushrooms — The Chief Zwartbooi — Return of JMr. Galton — He makes a Treaty with Jonker — He visits Rehoboth — ^INIisdoings of John Waggoner and Gabriel — Change of Servants — Swarm of Caterpillars — A Reconnoitering Expedition — Thunder-Storm — The Omatako Mountains — Zebra Flesh a God-send — Tropical Phenomenon— The Damaras not remarkable for Veracity — Encamp in an Ant-Hill — Return to Schmelen's Hope — Preparations for visiting Omanbonde 130—141

CHAPTER Xin.

Depart from Schmelen's Hope — ^INIeeting with Kahichene — Oxen stolen — Summary Justice — Superstition — ^jNIeeting an old Friend — Singular Custom — Gluttony of the Damaras — How they eat Flesh by the Yard and not by the Pound — Superstitious Custom — ^A Nondescript Animal — The Author loses his Way — Ravages of the Termites — 'Wait a bit, if you please' — Magnificent Fountain — Remains of Damara Villages — Horrors of War — ^ISIeet Bushmen — ^^leet Damaras— Difficulties encountered by African Travellers — Reach the Lake Omanbonde — Cruel Disappointment . . 142 — 159 xii

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIV.

Omanbonde visited by Hippopotami — Vegetation, &c., Described — Game somewhat scarce — Combat between Elephant and Rhinoceros — Advance or Retreat — Favourable Reports of the Ovambo-Land — Resolve to proceed there — Reconnoitre the Country — Depart from Omanbonde — Author shoots a Giraffe — Splendid INIirage — The Fan-Palm — The Guide absconds — Commotion amongsts the Natives— Arrive at Okamabuti — Unsuccessful Elephant Hunt — Vegetation— Accident to Waggon — Obliged to proceed on Ox-back — The Party go Astray — Baboon Fountain — IMeeting with the Ovambo ; their personal Appearance, &c. — Return to Encampment— An Elephant killed — Discover a curious Plant — Immorality— Reflections 160 — 177

CHAPTER XV.

Depart from Okamabuti — Visit from a Lion — Amulets — Re-visit Baboon Fountain — Otjikoto ; a wonderful Freak of Nature ; remarkable Cavern — Natives unacquainted with the Art of Swimming — Fish abundant in Otjikoto ; frequented by immense Flocks of Doves — Panic of the Ovambo on seeing Birds shot on the Wing — Arrive at Omutjamatunda — A Greasy Welcome — Ducks and Grouse numerous— Author finds himself somewhat ' overdone' — ' Salt-Pans ' — All ' look blue' — A Second Paradise — Hospitable Reception — Vegetation— People live in Patriarchal Style — Population — Enormous Hogs — Arrive at the residence of the redoubtable Nangoro.

178—191

CHAPTER XVI.

Visit from Nangoro — His extreme Obesity — One must be fat to wear a Crown — His non-appreciation of Eloquence — Singular Effects of Fireworks on the Natives — Cure for making a wry Face — Ball at the Palace — The Ladies very attractive and very loving — Their Dress, Ornaments, &c. — Honesty of the Ovambo — Kindness to the Poor — Love of Country — Hospitality — Delicate Manner of eating — Loose Morals — Laws of Succession — Religion — Houses — Domestic Animals — Implements of Husbandry — Manner of tilling the Ground — Articles of Barter — Metallurgy . . 1 92 — 205

CHAPTER XVIL The River Cunene — The Travellers are Prisoners at Large — Kingly Revenge — Kingly Liberality — Depart from Odonga — Suffering and consequences resulting from Cold — Return to Okamabuti — Damara

CONTENTS.

Xlll

Women murdered by Bushmen — Preparations for Journey — Obtain Guides — Depart from Tjopopa's Werft — Game abundant — Author and three Lions stalk Antelopes in Company — Extraordinary Visitation— The Rhinoceros's Guardian Angel — The Textor Erythrorhynchus — The Amadina Squamifrons; singular Construction of its Nest— Return to Barmen 206—216

CHAPTER XVIII.

The Damaras — ^Whence they came — ^Their Conquests — The Tide turns — Damara-Land only partially inhabited — Climate — Seasons — Mythology— Religion — Superstitions — Marriage — Polygamy — Children — Circumcision — Bury their Dead — Way they Mourn — Children interred Alive — Burial of the Chief, and Superstitions consequent thereon — Maladies — Damaras do not live long ; the cause thereof — Food — Music and Dancing — How they swear — Power of the Chieftain limited — Slothful People — ^Numerals — ^Astronomy — Domestic Animals ; their diseases .... 217 — 232

CHAPTER XIX.

Despatch a Messenger to Cape-Town — Depart from Barmen — Eikhams — Eyebrecht — Depart from Eikhams — Elephant Fountain — Tunobis — Enormous quanties of Game — Shooting by Night at the ' Skarm' — The Author has several narrow Escapes — Checked in attempt to reach the Ngami — ^The Party set out on their Return — Reach Elephant Fountain — How to make Soap — Pit-falls — A Night Adventure— Game scarce — Join Hans — The Party nearly poisoned — ^Arrival at Walfisch Bay — A Tub Adventure — Extraordinary Mortality amongst the Fish — Author narrowly escapes Drowning — Arrival of the Missionary Vessel — Letters from Home — ^Mr. Galton returns to Europe — Reflections .... 233 — 252

CHAPTER XX.

Capture of Young Ostriches — Natural History of the Ostrich ; Where found ; description of ; Size ; Weight ; Age ; Voice ; Strength ; Speed ; Food ; Breeding ; Incubation ; Cunning ; Stones found in Eggs ; Chicks ; Flesh- — Brain in Request amongst the Romans — Eggs highly prized — Uses of Egg-Shells — Feathers an Article of Commerce — Ostrich Parasols — The Bird's destructive Propensities ■ — Habits — Resembles Quadru peds — Domestication — The Chase — Snares — Ingenious Device — Enemies of the Ostrich.

253—269 xiv

CONTENTS,

CHAPTER XXI.

Sudden Floods — John Allen's Sufferings — Hans and the Author enter into Partnersliip — Young Grass injurious to Cattle — Depart from Walfisch Bay — Attractive Scenery — Troops of Lions — Extraordinary Proceedings of Kites — Flight of Butterflies — Attachment of Animals to One Another — Arrival at Richterfeldt ; at Barmen — Hans' narrow Escape — Self-Possession — Heavy Rains — Runaway Ox; he tosses the Author — Depart from Barmen — Difficulty of crossing Rivers — Encounter great Numbers of Oryxes . 270 — 278

CHAPTER XXn.

The Oryx; more than one Species — Where found — Probably known in Europe previous to the Discovery of the Passage round Cape-of-Good-Hope — Description of the Oryx — Gregarious Habits — Speed — Food — Water not necessary to its Existence — Will face the Lion — Formidable Horns — Their Use — Flesh — The Chase of this Animal 279—283

CHAPTER XXIH.

Arrival at Eikhams — Native Dogs ; cruelly treated — Jonker Afrikaner — The Author visits the Red Nation ; The bad Repute of these People — The Author attacked by Ophthalmia — The Embryo Locust — The ' Fl^dng ' Locust ; its Devastations — The Locust Bird — Arrival at Rehoboth ; The Place described . . 284—294

CHAPTER XXIV.

Return to Eikhams — L'gly Fall — Splendid Landscape — Jonker's Delinquencies— How to manage the Natives — The Ondara — It kills a Man — How his Comrade avenges him — Medical Properties of the Ondara — The Cockatrice — The Cobra-di-capella — The Puff- Adder — The Spitting Snake — The Black Snake — Few Deaths caused by Snakes — Antidotes for Snake Bites — Return to Rehoboth 295 — 307

CHAPTER XXY.

The Author's Tent takes Fire — He loses everything but his Papers — He is laid on a Bed of Sickness — Want of Medicine, &c. — Reflections— Whole Villages infected with Fever — Abundance of Game — Extraordinary Shot at an Ostrich — A Lion breakfasts on his Wife — Wonderful Shooting Star — Remarkable jMirage — Game and Lions Plentiful — The Ebony Tree — Arrival at Bethany, a iMissionary Station — The Trouble of a large Herd of Cattle — A thirsty Man's

CONTENTS.

XV

Cogitation — Curious Superstition — The Damara Cattle described — People who live entirely without Water — Cross the Orange River —Sterile Country 308—321

CHAPTER XXVI.

Great Namaqua-land — Its Boundaries and Extent — Its Rivers — Nature of the Country — Vegetation and Climate — Geological Structure — Minerals — 'Topnaars' and ' Oerlams * — Houses — Mythology and Religion — Tumuli — Wonderful Rock — Curious Legend of the Hare — Coming of Age — The Witch-Doctor — Amulets — Superstitions — A Namaqua's Notion of the Sun — Marriage — Polygamy — Children — Barbarous Practice — ^Longevity — Singular Customs — Ornaments — Tattooing — Arms — Idle Habits — Fond of Amusements — Music and Dancing — Spirits — ^INIead — Domestic Animals . . 322 — 336

CHAPTER XXVn.

Leave the Orange River — Arrival at Komaggas — Gardening and Agriculture— The Author starts alone for the Cape — Colony Horses — Enmity of the Boers to 'Britishers' — Dutch Salutation — The Author must have been at Timbuctoo, whether or no — He arrives at Cape- Town — Cuts a sorry Figure — Is run away with — A Feast of Oranges — Ghost Stories — Cattle Auction — Hans and John Allen proceed to Australia — Preparations for Journey to the Ngami — Departure from the Cape 337 — 351

CHAPTER XXVni.

Arrival at Walfisch Bay — ^Atrocities of the Namaquas — ^Ir, Hahn — His Philanthropy — Author departs for Richterfeldt — Shoots a Lion — Lions unusually numerous — ^Piet*s Performances with Lions — The Lion a Church-goer — Barmen — Eikhams — Kamapyu's mad Doings and Consequences thereof — Kamapyu is wounded by other Shafts than Cupid's — ^Author visits Cornelius, where he meets Amral and a Party of Griqua Elephant Hunters — Reaches Rehoboth — Tan's Mountain — Copper Ore — Jonathan Afrika — A Lion sups on a Goat — A Lion besieges the Cattle . . . 352 — 364

CHAPTER XXIX.

Dispatch Cattle to the Cape — Terrible Thunder-Storm — Trees struck by Lightning — The Nosop River — A Comet — The Author nearly poisoned — Some of the Men abscond ; they return to their Duty — Babel-like Confusion of Tongues — Game abundant — Author shoots xvi

CONTENTS.

a Giraffe — Meet Bushmen — Unsuccessful Elephant Hunt — Sufferings from Hunger — Tunobis — Game scarce — Author and Steed entrapped — Pit-falls — The Men turn sulky — ^Preparations for Departure from Tunobis — Vicious Pack-Oxen — Consequences of excessive Fatigue — The Jackal's Handy- Work — Tracks of Elephants — More Pit-falls — Loss of the Anglo-Saxon Lion and the Swedish Cross — Peach Ghanze ...... 365 — 382

CHAPTER XXX.

Ghanze — Spotted Hycena — The Rhinoceros — Where found — Several Species — Description of Rhinoceros — Size — Appearance — Age — Strength — Speed — Food — Water — The Young — Affection — Senses — Disposition — Gregarious Habits — Lidolence — Domestication — Flesh — Horns — The Chase — Mr. Oswell's Adventures with Rhinoceroses— A Crotchet — ^Where to aim at the Rhinoceros — Does not bleed externally when wounded — Great numbers slain annually . 383 — 401

CHAPTER XXXL Departure from Ghanzg — Nectar in the Desert — Difficulty in finding Water — Arrive at Abeghan — Unsuccessful Chase — A * Charm ' — How to make the undrinkable drinkable — An Elephant wounded and killed — Bold and courageous Dog — Kobis — Author seized with a singular Malady — Messengers dispatched to the Chief of the Lake Ngami — A large Troop of Elephants — Author kills a huge Male — Lions and Giraffe — Author's hair-breadth Escapes : from a Black Rhinoceros ; from a White Rhinoceros ; from Two Troops of Elephants— he shoots a Couple of his Adversaries — "Where to aim at an Elephant 402—417

CHAPTER XXXn.

Timbo's Return from the Lake ; his Logic ; he takes the Law in his own Hands — Calf of Author's Leg goes Astray — A Troop of Elephants — Author is charged by one of them, and narrowly escapes Death — He shoots a White Rhinoceros — He disables a Black Rhinoceros — He is charged and desperately bruised by the latter — He saves the Life of his Attendant, Kamapyu — Author again charged by the Rhinoceros, and escapes Destruction only by the opportune Death of his Antagonist — Reflections — He starts for the Ngami . 418 — 427

CHAPTER XXXm.

The Author starts for Kobis — Meets Bechuanas — False Report — ^Wonderful Race of Men — TheBaobob Tree — The Ngami — First Impressions

CONTENTS.

xvii of the Lake — Reflections — Experiences some Disappointment — Reaches the Zouga River and encamps near it — Interview with Chief Lecholetebe — ^Information refused — Immoderate Laughter — Presents to the Chief — His Covetousness — His Cruelty — Formidable Difficulties— Author permitted to proceed Northwards . 428 — 439

CHAPTER XXXIV.

The Ngami — ^When discovered — Its various Names — Its Size and Form — Great Changes in its Waters — Singular Phenomenon — The Teoge River — The Zouga River — The Mukura Mukovanja River — Animals— Birds — Crocodiles — Serpents — Fish . . 440 — 452

CHAPTER XXXV.

The Batoana — Government — Eloquence — Language — Mythology — Religion— Superstition — The Rain-maker — Polygamy — Circumcision — Burial — Disposition of the Bechuanas — Thievish Propensities — Dress — Great Snulf-takers — Smoking — Occupations — Agriculture — Commerce — Hunting and Fishing . . . 453 — 473

CHAPTER XXXVL

Departure for Libebe — The Canoe — The Lake — Reach the Teoge — Adventure with a Lech6 — Luxurious Vegetation — Exuberance of Animal Life — Buffaloes — The Koodoo — His Haunts — Pace — Food — Flesh — Hide — Disposition — Gregarious Habits — The Chase.

474—487

CHAPTER XXXVII.

Tsetse Fly — Confined to particular Spots — its Size — Its Destructiveness — Fatal to domestic Animals — Symptoms in the Ox when bitten by the Tsetse 488—491

CHAPTER XXXVin.

The Crocodile — An Englishman killed by one of these Monsters — The Omoroanga Vavarra River — Hardships — Beautiful Scenery — Lecholetebe's Treachery — The Reed-ferry . , . 492 — 497

CHAPTER XXXIX.

The Bayeye — Their Country ; Persons ; Language ; Disposition ; lying and pilfering Habits — Polygamy practised amongst the Bayeye — Their Houses; Dress; Ornaments; Weapons; Liquors; Agriculture ; Grain ; Fruits ; Granaries — Hunting — Fishing — Nets — Diseases— The Matsanyana — The Bavicko — Libebe . 498 — 506 xviii

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XL.

Departure from the Bayeye Werft — The Reed- Raft — The Hippopotamus Behemoth or Hippopotamus — Where found — Two Species — Description of Hippopotamus — Appearance — Size — Swims like a Duck — Food — Destructive propensities of the Animal — Disposition — Sagacity — Memory — Gregarious habits — Nocturnal habits — Domestication — Food — Flesh — Hide — Ivory — Medicinal virtues.