Life with the Esquimaux : the narrative of Captain Charles Francis Hall, of the whaling barque "George Henry", from the 29th May, 1860, to the 13th September, 1862. With the results of a long intercourse with the Innuits, and full description of their mode of life, the discovery of actual relics of the expedition of Martin Frobisher of three centuries ago, and deductions in favour of yet discovering some of the survivors of Sir John Franklin's expedition ..

Front matter

Gregory Javitch Collection

T Pi > V/

TOOKOOLITO, C. F. HALL, AND EBIERBING.

Preface

Before these volumes pass from the writer’s hands into those of the reader, the author will he once more among the ice of the arctic regions. Though the last page of manuscript was written on the morning of his embarkation, the work itself has been no hasty one. He returned nearly two years ago from the expedition which he has endeavoured to describe. Almost every hour since then, which could be spared from the arrangements for his second expedition, has been devoted to the preparation of these volumes from his voluminous journal and notes taken on the spot.

Before dismissing the work, however, from his hands, he wishes to say a few words by way of explanation of certain matters connected with his explorations. The reader will perhaps wonder why so much importance was given to the discovery of the Frobisher relics. He answers, partly be¬ cause of the interest which attached itself to the remains of men so long ago left in that waste land; but partly, too, because the discovery of these remains, and the tracing of their history, among the Esquimaux, confirmed, in a remark¬ able manner, his belief that these people retain among them, with great positiveness, the memory of important and strange incidents; and as their traditions of Frobisher, when the author was able to get at them, were so clear, he is per¬ suaded that among them may be sought, by one competent, with every chance of complete success, the sad history of Sir John Franklin’s men.

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PEEFACE.

To make himself competent for this more interesting and important research, the author patiently acquired the lan¬ guage and familiarized himself with the habits of the Esqui¬ maux, and he now returns to their country able to speak with them, to live among them, and to support his life in the same manner that they do theirs; to migrate with them from'place to place, and to traverse and patiently explore all the region in w T hich it is reasonable to suppose Franklin’s crew travelled and perished. The two intelligent Esquimaux, Ebierbing and Tookoolito, who accompanied the author on his return home, after remaining with him for two years, go back with him on this second voyage.

The author enters upon this undertaking with lively hopes of success; he will not, like most previous explorers, set his foot on shore for a few days or weeks, or, like others, journey among men whose language is unintelligible : but he will again live for two or three years among the Esquimaux, and gain their confidence, with the advantage of understand¬ ing the language, and of making all his wishes known to them.

The author cannot close without offering his thanks to the Artists for the beautiful and accurate drawings made by them, under his own eye, from his rough sketches ; and to the Engravers and Printers for their constant forbearance in the trouble he gave them, unaccustomed as he was to literary labours, yet anxious to obtain the utmost exactness in his narrative.

C. F. H.

June 30, 1864, on loan'd bark Monticello, bound for the Arctic Regions,.

Chapter I

Departure — “Rescue” Schooner—Names of Crew—Outfit — Sea-sickness—First Sight of Whales—William Sterry—Banks of Newfoundland,—Storm at Sea —“ Sulphur Bottoms ”—The first Iceberg—The Danish Brig “ Mariane” —Death and Burial of Kudlago—Halibut and Codfish—First Meeting with Esquimaux—Native Pilots— Ephraim's Pants—Midnight Sun—Arrival at Holsteinborg .15

Chapter II

Land and Visit the Governor—Brief History of Greenland—The Holsteinborg District—Esquimaux and European Population—Protection and Care of the Natives by the Danish Crown—Plagues of Greenland—Dinner at the Governor’s — M‘Clintock’s Work—The Priest’s Wife—Visit the Government Buildings—Arrival of the “ Rescue ” — Lars’s Care for his Family—Dance on Shore—A Mountain Excursion—Action of Freezing Water in Crevices — Esquimaux Amusements—Schools and Printing. . . ...... . . 39

Chapter III

Visit of Governor Elberg to the Ship—Adam Beck—Another Mountain Ascent —The “ Woman’s Hood ”—A grand Scene—Ball on board Ship — Sun’s Eclipse—Danger to Ship and Boat in a Gale—Curious Esquimaux Feats— Mishap to the “ George Henry’s” .Windlass—A stirring Picture—Letters Home — Leave-taking .... 65

CONTENTS.

Chapter IV

Crossing Davis's Straits—Changing Appearance and Movements of Icebergs BeauMful Sunsets and Morning Skies — Refraction—Mountains “ hanging on a Thread " — God’s living Arches—Approach to Land — Fogs—Another Gale —Desperate Party of runaway Seamen—Horrible Tale of Starvation and Cannibalism—Anchor in Kowtukjua Harbour .Page 79

Chapter V

Visited by the Natives—Brief Account of some of them—A very aged Woman — Oo-ki-jox-y Ni-noo—Ugarng and his thirteen Wives—Ebierbing and Tookoolito — Kudlago's Widow, Kok-er-jab-in — “Blind George” — Excursion on Shore—Anecdote of the Greenland Dogs—Beautiful Scenery—An Alabaster Cave—Arctic Food—First Taste of Bear-meat—A Blind Man threading a Needle and mending Clothes—Astonishment created by a Magnet — Author's narrow Escape from Death—Geological Character of the Rocks—Departure for and Arrival at Field Bay—A Cruise in the “Rescue ”—Arrival in new Waters .97

Chapter VI

First Visit to Frobisher Bay —“ Meta Incognita " — Fossils — Koo-jesse and his Family—Old Artarkparu—The beautiful Kok-er-zhun—Skinning Ducks— Esquimaux Food—Native Mode of Sleeping — Innuit Head-ornaments — White Man's Grave—Esquimaux Grave — Innuit Skill in Geography — Aurora Borealis—Visited by Numbers of the Natives—Skill of the Women at Work—Trial of the Expedition Boat—Ancient Dwellings of the Innuits—A Mountain Pass—Whale captured—Great Feast for the Natives — Author's first Trial at raw Whale-meat—Discovery of a Frobisher Relic . . . 118

Chapter VII

Boat Incident—Life hanging on a Shoe-string—Courage of Esquimaux Boys _

Arrival of the 11 Gewgiana " — Author's Sickness and Recovery—Attention of the Natives—A fearful Gale — The “Rescue " and the Expedition Boat wrecked — The “Georgians" on Shore—The “George Henry" in great Danger . .

CONTENTS.

Chapter VIII

Splendid Displays of the Aurora—Arrival of Captain Parker in the “ True-love "— Visit to his Ship — Nikufar the Pilot—First Interview with the Innuits Ebierbing and Tookoolito—Their previous Visit to England and Presentation to Royalty — Snow-storm—A natural Causeway—Fluctuations of the Compass Needle—Tookoolito at Work—She tries to Educate her People —Her Power to do Good—Advantages of a Mission Colony— 1 ‘ Carl Petersen ” M‘Clintock's Interpreter—Tookoolito rebuking Swearers . . . Page 151

Chapter IX

Visit to Esquimaux Village—First Specimen of domestic Life among the Innuits —Female Tongues good Cleaners—The Angeko's Power—Mysteries of Innuit Worship—Choice of Wives — Cv/rious Guide Poles to Travellers — Charley's Independence of Angeko—Ship beset in the Ice—Sudden Movements of the Ice—Frozen in—A Bear-hunt — Visit the Tupic of Ebierbing—Scarcity of Innuit Food and Fuel—The Esquimaux Lamp—Patience and Perseverance of an Innuit Hu/nter—An Igloo .170

Chapter X

Remarkable Echo—Visit of “ Sampson "—Innuit mode of Washing the Face — “ Bridge of Sighs ”—Mothers nursing their Children—Serviceable Hoods— Tails of Innuit Dresses—Extraordinarily mild Weather—Kelp used for Food —Christmas and New Year's Day—Sick Nukertou—Cruel Abandonment— Innuit Superstitions — Author's lonely Watch — Kooperarchu’s Death—Innuit Idea of a Future State .185

CHAPTER XL

Rough Travelling overland—High Cliffs—Descent of the Sledge on to the frozen Sea—Camp on the Ice—First Night in an Igloo—Dangerous Travelling — Second Night on the Ice—An icy Beard — Hair-cutting—Fearful Peril—Deep Snow—Treacherous Footing—Arrive at Rogers's Island—Great Thirst — Innuit Welcome — A Cup of Water — Night's Rest—Disappearance of the Ice — Remarkable Preservation—Frostbites—A servicedblepocket Mirror— Whale-skin eaten as food—Innuit Seal-hunting—Starving Condition of the Party . 205

XU

CONTENTS.

Chapter XII

Writing u/nder Difficulties — No Fire or Lamp — Only two Inches of Black Skin for Food—Ravenous Hunger of the Dogs — Ebierhing's Return A Seal captured—Supplies from, the Ship—Great Consumption of Food at a time —Old Ookijoxy Ninoo’s Dream — Tobacco-juice useful—Watching for the Seal—Innuit Endu/romce of Cold—Mode of cooking and partaking of Innuit Food—Burning the Fingers with cold Brass—First Rei/ndeer seen—Author visits Kowtukjua, Clark's Harbour, and Ookoolear, A lien's Island — Tookoolito's Sadness—Quick Journey—Plaintive Look of a Seal—Arrive at the “ George Henry" .Page 219

Chapter XIII

Irksome Change from a Snow House to the Ship's Cabin—Native Village on the Ice—Scurvy on Board—Best Cure for it—A Reindeer Hu/nt—Dogs in Chase—A Venison Feast for the Ship’s Crew—Some of the sick Crew sent to live with the Natives—The Innuit King-wat-che-ung—His Kindness to White Men—One of the Sailors missing—The missing Man's Tracks ; his erratic Movements; he gets confused and goes Seaward; has a Rest in the Snow; moves on again, a/nd proceeds Miles from the Ship ; his Scramble round an Iceberg—Author and ' his Companion exhausted—Temptation to lie down and sleep—Sledge arrives from the Ship—Search continued—Tracks lead to the Shore—Signs of a fearful Struggle—Discovery of the Body, frozen stiff—Ground too hard to dig a Grave—Cover the Corpse with Ice and Snow — Return to the Ship .. ..234

Chapter XIV

Visited by more Innuits—Perils on the Ice—Innuits carried out to Sea —Starva¬ tion—Dogs eaten—Three months away from Land—Return of the Party, mere Skeletons—Thrilling Incidents—An Innuit carried down by a Whale and afterwards saved—A Man’s Leg snapped off—Suzhi's Husband killed by an Avalanche—Incidents of White Men’s Perils and Escapes—Heavy Snow¬ storm-Danger to Mate Rogers and his Innuit Guide—Dog Barbekark saves them—Commencement of Spring — Author’s Occupations—Makes some Instru¬ ments for his Use in exploring — Plans—Strange Information gathered from the . Natives—Tradition concerning White Men — Frobisher’s Expedition . . 262

CONTENTS.

xiii

Chapter XV

First Excursion in Frobisher Bay—Travelling on the Ice—A Tradition concern¬ ing White Men masting a Ship—The lnnuit Village — Twer-puk-ju-a—Sterry living with the Natives —“ Charming ” a Seal — Kokerjabin’s Birthplace — Kingaite — Karmowong—Author adopts lnnuit Life—Trip along the Coast— The “ Ice-foot ”—Summer Resting-places of the Innuits—Sundry Articles belonging to a wrecked Ship—Grandeur of Kingaite Mountains— The Grinnell Glacier—A Seal Hunt — Feasting—The Seal's Eyes given to youngest Child — Knowledge coming to an Inquirer—Tide entering the Igloos at Night — Author becomes am Angeko—Return Journey—Laughable Incident—A tight Fit—Curious Mowitain Mark—Abundance of Animal Life—Arrival at Twerpukjua and at Annawa’s — An animated Sunday Picture . Page 277

CHAPTER XYI.

Snow-blindness—Month of May—Ship released from her Ice-fetters—A spirited Scene — Sledge-dogs at full Speed—Terrific Encounter with a Bear—A Toss in the Air—A powerful lnnuit—The aged Woman, Ookijoxy Ninoo—Tookoolito Interpreter—Important Information—Traditions relating to White Men very many Years ago—Ships with many People had arrived -Two lnnuit Women taken away—Five Innuits killed by White Men—Five White Men among the Innuits—Written History confirmed by . Oral Tradition — Barrow's History of Arctic Discovery—Relics of the White Men to be found — Wood, Coal, Brick, Iron—Innuits must possess the Truth concerning Franklin’s Expedition — The Dreaded Land—Preparations for Summer Work — Ice—Pools of Water formed—Arrive on Land—Extensive View—A beautiful Grassy Plain — Comparison with Greenland—Lands behind the Coast, at this part, very fertile .296

Chapter XVII

A successful Deer-hunt — Se-ko-se-lar Innuits—The Land Pass—Magnificent Scenery — Countess of Warwick Sound — Important Discovery — Relic of Frobisher’s Expedition — Sledge-drive in a Snow-storm—Value of a Compass —Safe Arrival on Board—State of the Ice—The Whale Dep6t—Stranger Innuits arrive—Two boats of White Men land on the Coast — After-know¬ ledge of the Truth—Loss of the English Store-ship “ Kitty "—The Locality of Sekoselar—Tradition of Parry’s Voyage—Old Innuits remember visiting him —Sekoselar Innuits dislike civilization Food—“ Barbarous Stuff”—Physical Superiority of the Sekoselar Men .312

A LIST OP THE ILLUSTRATIONS TO YOU I.

Drawn by Charles Parsons, W. S. L. Jewett, H. L. Stephens, Granville Perkins, and S. Eytinge, after Sketches by the Author, Photographs, and from Implements and Clothing collected among the Esquimaux.

1. Chart, showing Author’s Track and Discoveries . At End of Volume.

2. Tookoolito, C. F. Hall, and Ebierbing. Frontispiece.

3. Ascent of an Iceberg . . .. Page 24

4. Portrait of Kudlago.28

5. Burial of Kudlago.30

6. Kudlago’s Monument. 31

7. Greenland Currency. 45

8. Greenland Woman and Child. 53

9. Festival on the Birthday of the King of Denmark.60

10. Dance on Board the^ George Henry .70

11. Boat-Summerset—Esquimaux Feat.73

12. Belted Iceberg.81

18. Gothic Iceberg.82

14. Distorted Moon.84

15. Last Sight of the Runaways.90

16. Iceberg and Kia.96

17. Pipe-Sketch—Clark’s Harbour.108

18. Sterry’s Tower. 114

19. Frobisher Bay and Grinnell Glacier. 119

20. Esquimaux Chart, drawn by Koojesse.127

21. Wreck of the Rescue and of the Expedition Boat.147

22. Aurora, November 23, 1860 152 xvi A LIST OF THE ILLUSTRATIONS.

Page.

24. Nikujar, the Boat-steerer and Pilot.

25. Bone Sledge-runner. 169

26. Bear Hunt—Tapping the Jugular.^

27. Esquimaux Stone Lamp and Fire.

28. Ekkeluyun—Salmon-bait..

29. The George Henry in Winter Quarters. . • • l® 6

30. The Dying Esquimaux—Nukertou . . 200

31. Storm-bound—Encamped on a. Floe . . . . • • • • •„ ■ 209

32. Head and Antlers of Arctic Reindeer.218

33. Sealing in the Winter.223

34. Barbekark Killing Reindeer..238

35. The Lost Found—Frozen Dead.• • • 256

37. Esquimaux and Seal Dog. 263

38. Blind George and his Daughter.■ • 281

39. Igloos, or Snow Tillage, at Oopungnewing:.291

40. Oodloo, or Woman’s Knife. 295

41. Ookijoxy Ninoo Narrating Traditions ..301

LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX.