Arctic Researches and Life among the Esquimaux, etc

Front matter

TOOKOOLITO, 0. T. HALL, AND EUlEliiTN, Harper & Brothers, New York. ARCTIC RESEARCHES AND LIFE AMONG THE ESQUIMAUX BEING THK NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN, IN THE YEARS 1860, 1861, AND 1862. BY CHARLES FRANCIS HALL. eaffti) iWaps an! ©ne jBtuntire'li Illustrations. NEW YORK: HARPER Æ BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE. 1865. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year one thousand eight hundred and sixty -four, by Harper & Brothers, In the Cleric's Office of the District Court of the Southern District of New York.

Preface

Before this book passes from the writer's hands into those of the reader, the author will be once more among the ice of the arc tic regions. Though the last page of manuscript was written on the morning of my embarkation, the book itself has been no hasty work. I returned nearly two years ago from the expedi tion which I have endeavored to describe. Almost every hour since then, which could be spared from the arrangements for my second expedition, has been devoted to the preparation of this volume from my voluminous journal and notes taken on the spot. Before dismissing the book, however, from my hands, I wish to say a few words by way of explanation of certain matters con nected with my explorations. The reader will perhaps wonder why so much importance was given to the discovery of the Fro bisher relics.

I answer, partly because of the interest which at tached itself to the remains of men so long ago left in that waste land ; but partly, too, because the discovery of these remains, and the tracing of their history among the Esquimaux, confirmed, in a remarkable manner, my belief that these people retain among them, with great positiveness, the memory of important and strange incidents; and as their traditions of Frobisher, when I was able to get at them, were so clear, I am persuaded that among them may be sought, by one competent, with every chance of complete suc cess, the sad history of Sir John Franklin's men. To make myself competent for this more interesting and im portant research, I patiently acquired the language and familiar ized myself with the habits of the Esquimaux. I return now to

PREFACE.

. their country able to speak with them, to live among them, to support my life in the same manner that they do theirs ; to mi grate with them from place to place, and to traverse and patiently explore all the region in which it is reasonable to suppose Frank lin's crew traveled and perished. I shall be accompanied by the two intelligent Esquimaux, Ebierbing and Tookoolito, who, having accompanied me on my return from my first expedition, and after remaining with me for two years, now go back with me on this second yoyage. I enter upon this undertaking with lively hopes of success. I shall not, like previous explorers, set my foot on shore for a few days or weeks, or, like others, journey among men whose language is to me unintelligible. I shall live for two or three years among the Esquimaux, and gain their confidence ; and I have the ad vantage of understanding the language, and of making all my wishes known to them.

I will not close without offering my thanks to my Publishers for their patience and courtesy ; to the Artists for the beautiful and accurate drawings made by them, under my own eye, from my rough sketches ; and to the Engravers and Printers for their constant forbearance in the trouble I gave them, unaccustomed as I was to literary labors, yet anxious to obtain the utmost ex actness in my narrative. C. F. H. June 30, 18G4, on board bark Monticello, ) bound for the Arctic Regions. ) CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Departure. — " Rescue" Schooner. — Names of Crew.- — Outfit. — Sea-sickness. — First Sight of Whales. — William Sterry. — Banks of Newfoundland. — Storm at Sea. — "Sulphur Bottoms." — The first Iceberg. — Visit to one. — The Danish Brig Mariane. — Past Experiences of Scurvy. — Death and Burial of Kudlago. — Fourth of July at Sea. — Halibut and Codfish. — First Meeting with Esquimaux. — Native Pilots. — Ephraim's Pants. — Midnight Sun. — Arrival at Holsteinborg Page 31

Chapter II

Land and Visit the Governor. — Brief History of Greenland. — The Holsteinborg District. — Esquimaux and European Population. — Protection and Care of the Natives by the Danish Crown. — Plagues of Greenland. — Musquitoes. — Trade and Barter. — A Yankee outwitted by an Esquimaux. — Dinner at the Governor's. — M'Clintock's Work. — The Priest's Wife. — Visit the Government Buildings. — Arrival of the Rescue. — Lars's Care for his Family. — Dance on Shore. — A Mountain Excursion. — Rocks crumbling to pieces. — Action of Freezing Water in Crevices. — Sundays' and Esquimaux Amusements. — Greenland Festival. — Schools and Printing.— Dr. Rink 49

Chapter III

Visit of Governor Elberg to the Ship. — His Pleasure at American Progress. — Adam Beck. — Another Mountain Ascent. — The "Woman's Hood." — A grand Scene. — Ball on board Ship. — Sun's Eclipse. — Danger to Ship and Boat in a Gale. — Curious Esquimaux Feats. — Mishap to the George Henry's Windlass. — A stirring Picture. — Kind Assistance of the Governor. — Preparations for Departure. — Letters Home. — Leave-taking. — Final Adieus. — Farewell to Holsteinborg 71

Chapter IV

Crossing Davis's Straits. — Sea-sickness again. — "Perpetual Motion." — Changing Appearance and Movements of Icebergs. — Beautiful Sunsets and Morning Skies. — Refraction. — Nature on a Spree. — Distorted Moon. — Mountains "hanging on a Thread." — God's living Arches. — "Merrie Dancers" in the Sky. — Approach to Land. — Fogs. — Another Gale. — Desperate Party of runaway Seamen. — Horrible Tale of Starvation and Cannibalism. — -Anchor in Kowtukjua Harbor 83

Chapter V

Visited by the Natives. — Brief Account of some of them. — A very aged Woman. — Oo-ki-jox-y Ni-noo. — A numerous Family. — Ugarng and his thirteen Wives. — Ebierbing and Tookoolito.— Kudlago's Widow, Kok-er-jab-in. — "Blind George." — Excursion on Shore. — Anecdote of the Greenland Dogs. — Beautiful Scenery. — How Nature splits huge Rocks. — An Alabaster Cave. — Arctic Food. — First Taste CONTENTS. VI of Bear-meat. — Americanizing Kim-mi-loo. — A Blind Man threading a Needle and mending Clothes. — Astonishment created by a Magnet. — Ugarng and the Quicksilver. — Author's narrow Escape from Death. — Geological Character of the Rocks. — Departure for and Arrival at Field Bay. — A Cruise in the Rescue. — Arrival in new Waters Page 99

Chapter VI

First Visit to Frobisher Bay. — "Meta Incognita." — Fossils. — Koo-jesse and his Family. — Old Artarkparu. — The beautiful Kok-er-zhun. — Skinning Ducks. — Esquimaux Food. — Native Mode of Sleeping. — Innuit Head-ornaments. — Return to the Ship. — Excursion on Shore. — White Man's Grave. — Esquimaux Grave. — Chart made by Koojesse. — Innuit Skill in Geography. — Aurora Borealis. — Visited by Numbers of the Natives. — Skill of the Women at Work. — Trial of the Expedition Boat. — Journey on Land. — Annawa. — Ancient Dwellings of the Innuits. — A Mountain Pass. — Old Mother Pe-ta-to. — Puto and the White Child.— -Whale captured. — An exciting Scene. — Great Feast for the Natives. — Author's first Trial at raw Whale-meat. — Custom and Education alone prevents the Enjoyment of raw Food. — Discovery of a Frobisher Relic 117

Chapter VII

Boat Incident. — Life hanging on a Shoe-string. — Courage of Esquimaux Boys. — Author's Escape. —Decomposed Rocks. — Tes-su-win. — Arrival of the Georgiana. — Author's Sickness and Recovery. — Attention of the Natives. — Independent Character of the Esquimaux. — Deserving the attention of Philanthropists. — A fearful Gale. — The Rescue and the Expedition Boat wrecked. — The Georgiana on Shore. — The George Henry in great Danger. — Gale abates. — The Georgiana got off the Rocks undamaged. — She departs for Northumberland Inlet 133

Chapter VIII

Splendid Displays of the Aurora. — "The World on Fire." — Arrival of Captain Parker in the True-love. — Visit to his Ship. — Nikujar the Pilot. — Anecdotes of Parker's Arctic Experiences. — First Interview with the Innuits Ebierbing and Tookoolito. — Their previous Visit to England and Presentation to Royalty. — The Accomplishments of Tookoolito. — Eenoolooapik. — A Walk on Shore. ■ — Snow-storm. — A natural Causeway. — Fluctuations of the Compass Needle. — Tookoolito at Work. — She tries to Educate her People. — Her Power to do Good. Advantages of a Mission Colony. — Difference of Language among the Esquimaux. Carl Petersen, M'Clintock's Interpreter. — Tookoolito rebuking Swearers 147

Chapter IX

Visit to Esquimaux Village.— First Specimen of domestic Life among the Innuits. — Seal's Blood excellent.— Blind George in Trouble. — His paternal Affection. "Black Skin" for Food.— Female Tongues good Cleaners.— The Angeko.— Extraordinary Conduct of the Natives.— The Angeko's Power.— Mysteries of Innuit Worship.— Koojesse's Trepidation.— Angeko's Cunning.— Choice of Wives. Curious Guide Poles to Travelers.— Charley's independence of Angeko.— Ship beset in the Ice. — Hoar-frost on the Rigging.— Changes of Temperature. — Sudden Movements of the Ice.— Frozen in.— A Bear Hunt— Author's first Encounter with a Bear. —Death of Bruin. —Visit the Tupic of Ebierbing. —Scarcity of Innuit Food and Fuel.— The Esquimaux Lamp.— Patience and Perseverance of an Innuit Hunter. — An Igloo lfi. CONTENTS. VII

Chapter X

Remarkable Echo. — Visit of "Sampson." — Innuit Mode of Washing the Face. — "Job's Comforters." — "Bridge of Sighs." — Mothers nursing their Children. — Serviceable Hoods. — Tails of Innuit Dresses. — Cold in Winter endurable. — Extraordinary mild Weather. — Igloos in Ruins. — Kelp used for Food. — Christmas and New Year's Day. — Sick Nukertou. — Inattention to the Infirm and Dying. — Cruel Abandonment. — Innuit Superstitions. — Author's lonely Watch. — Death of Nukertou. — The female Angeko. — Kooperarchu's Death.— Reflections. — Innuit Idea of a Future State Page 177

Chapter XI

A January Sledge Excursion to Cornelius Grinnell Bay. — Rough Traveling overland. — High Cliffs. — Descent of the Sledge on to the frozen Sea. — Camp on the Ice. — First Night in an Igloo. — Proceed on the Journey. — Dangerous Traveling. — Second Night on the Ice. — Detention. — Cold. — An icy Beard. — Hair-cutting. — A Storm. — Disruption of the Ice. — Fearful Peril. — Cessation of the Gale. — Continue the Journey. — Ice on the Move in every Direction. — Deep Snow. —Treacherous Footing. — Laborious Work — Arrive atRogers's Island. — Great Thirst. — Innuit Welcome. — A Cup of Water. — Hospitality. — Light, Warmth, and Food. — Night's Rest. — Disappearance of the Ice. — Remarkable Preservation. — Frostbites. — A serviceable pocket Mirror. — Bad Weather. — Whaleskin eaten as Food. — Attempted Return to the Ship. — Author's weak State. — Innuit Seal-hunting. — Starving Condition of the Party 194

Chapter XII

Writing under Difficulties. — No Fire or Lamp. — Only two Inches of Black Skin for Food. — Ravenous Hunger of the Dogs. — Relief obtained. — Ebierbing's Return. — A Seal captured. — Supplies from the Ship. — Grand Feast of raw Meat. — Hunger needs no Sauce. — Great Consumption of Food at a time. — Old Ookijoxy Ninoo's Dream. — An Innuit Mark of a Seal-hole. — Tobacco-juice useful. — Watching for the Seal. — Innuit Endurance of Cold. — Eating frozen Seal's Entrails. — Mode of cooking and partaking of Innuit Food. — Severe Cold. — The Angeko again. — Burning the Fingers with cold Brass. — First Reindeer seen. — More Innuit Arrivals. — Improvidence of the Natives. — Generous Disposition. — Live to-day and Want to-morrow. — Author Visits Kowtukjua — Clark's Harbor — and Ookoolear — Allen's Island. — Return to the Igloo Village. — Departure for the Ship. — Tookoolito's Sadness. — Quick Journey. — Plaintive Look of a Seal. — Arrive at the George Henry 206

Chapter XIII

Irksome Change from a Snow House to the Ship's Cabin. — Native Village on the Ice. — Scurvy on Board. — Best Cure for it. — "Tuktoo! Tuktoo!" — A Reindeer Hunt. — Dogs in Chase. — Remarkable Sagacity and Courage of Barbekark. — The Deer killed by him. — Great Struggle between them. — A Venison Feast for the Ship's Crew. — Death of Blind George's Wife. — Some of the sick Crew sent to live with the Natives. — The Innuit King-wat-che-ung. — His Kindness to White Men. — Koojesse and Charley. — A sick Man's Obstinacy. — One of the Sailors missing. — Search for him. — Severely cold Weather. — Most of the Party unable to keep up the Search. — The Author and one Sailor persevere. — The missing Man's Tracks ; his erratic Movements ; he gets confused and goes Seaward ; has a Rest in the CONTENTS. VIII Snow ; moves on again, and proceeds Miles from the Ship ; his Scramble round an Iceberg.— Author and his Companion exhausted.— Temptation to lie down and Sleep.— Sledge arrives from the Ship.— Search continued.— Tracks lead to the Shore.— Signs of a fearful Struggle.— Discovery of the Body, frozen stiff- Ground too hard to dig a Grave.— Cover the Corpse with Ice and Snow.— Return to the Ship Page 219

Chapter XIV

Visited by more Innuits. — Ebierbing and Tookoolito.— The Seal-dog. — Perils on the Ice. — Innuits carried out to Sea. — Starvation. — Dogs eaten. — Three Months away from Land. — Return of the Party, mere Skeletons. — Thrilling Incidents. — An Innuit carried down by a Whale and afterward saved. — A Man's Leg snapped off. — Suzhi's Husband killed by an Avalanche. — Incidents of White Men's Perils and Escapes. — Kindness of the Natives. — Another Man nearly frozen to Death. — Heavy Snow-storm. — Danger to Mate Rogers and his Innuit Guide. — Dog Barbekark, saves them. — Commencement of Spring. — Author's Occupations. — Makes some Instruments for his Use in exploring. — Plans. — Strange Information gathered from the Natives. — Tradition concerning White Men. — Frobisher's Expedition 243

Chapter XV

First Excursion in Frobisher Bay. — Crossing the Mountain Pass. — Traveling on the Ice. — A Tradition concerning White Men masting a Ship. — Arrival at Oopungnewing. — Annawa's Home. — Hospitable Reception. — Close Sleeping-quarters. — Ten Persons in a Bed. — Morning Walk. — The Innuit Village. — Twer-puk-ju-a. — Sterry living with the Natives. — Miner. — Charming a Seal. — Kokerjabin's Birthplace. — Kingaite. — Karmowong. — Author adopts Innuit Life. — Trip along the Coast. — The "Ice-foot." — Summer Resting-places of the Innuits. — Sundry Articles belonging to a wrecked Ship. — Ee-vic-toon. — Native Monuments. — Grandeur of Kingaite Mountains. — The Grinnell Glacier. — A fatiguing Journey. — Disappointed of a Night's Shelter. — Moonlight Traveling. — A poor Supper. — Thirst. An impromptu Igloo. — A cold Bed. — Next Day's Journey. — Discover the Natives. — Sampson and his Family. — Kind Reception. — A Seal Hunt. — Feasting. — The Seal's Eyes given to youngest Child.- — Knowledge coming to an Inquirer.

Tide entering the Igloos at Night. — Innuit Women's Mouths good Receptacles for cleansing Purposes. — Snow-storm. — Author accustomed to Innuit Food. How it is eaten.— Seal's Brains and Entrails. — Author becomes an Angeko. Return Journey. — Laughable Incident.— A tight Fit. — Curious Mountain Mark. Abundance of Animal Life. — Arrival at Twerpukjua and at Annawa's. — An animated Sunday Picture. — Return on Foot to the Ship. — Arrival 256

Chapter XVI

Snow-blindness. — Month of May. — Ship released from her Ice-prison. A spirited Scene.— Sledge-dogs at full Speed.— "Bob," the Angeko.— Falling Igloos. —Anecdote of Bob.— Terrific Encounter with a Bear.— A Toss in the Air. A powerful Innuit.— The aged Woman, Ookijoxy Ninoo.— Tookoolito Interpreter.— Important Information. — Traditions relating to White Men very many Years ago. Ships with many People had arrived.— Two Innuit Women taken away.— Five Innuits killed by White Men. — Five White Men among the Innuits. Written History confirmed by Oral Tradition. — Barrow's History of Arctic Discovery. Relics of the White Men to be found.— Wood, Coal, Brick, Iron.— Innuits must CONTENTS. IX possess the Truth concerning Franklin's Expedition. — More Information. — The Dreaded Land. — Preparations for Summer Work. — Illness of Tookoolito. — Exploration at Head of Field Bay. — Dangerous Traveling on the Ice. — Pools of Water formed. — Arrive on Land. — Extensive View. — A beautiful Grassy Plain. — Comparison with Greenland. — Lands behind the Coast, at this Part, very fertile. — Reindeer numerous. — Return to the Ship Page 273

Chapter XVII

A successful Deer-hunt. — Venison. — Another Journey. — Se-ko-se-lar Innuits. — The Land Pass. — Magnificent Scenei'y. — Countess of Warwick Sound. — Important Discovery. — Piece of Brick. — Relic of Frobisher's Expedition. — Sledge-drive in a Snow-storm. — A Whirl in the Snow. — An involuntary Slide. — Value of a Compass. — Safe Arrival on Board. — Anniversary of Departure from Home. — State of the Ice. — "Man-traps." — The Whale De'pot. — Plenty of fresh Meat. — Stranger Innuits arrive. — A startling Tale. — Two Boats of White Men land on the Coast. — First Idea concerning them. — After-knowledge of the Truth. — Loss of the English Store-ship Kitty. — The Locality of Sekoselar. — Innuit Information. — Head of Frobisher Bay. — Tradition of Parry's Voyage. — Old Innuits remember visiting him. — Extract from his Narrative. —Sekoselar Innuits dislike civilization Food. — "Barbarous Stuff." — Strange Dialect. — Physical Superiority of the Sekoselar Men 287

Chapter XVIII

Journey to the Unknown, or "Dreaded Land." — Slender Outfit. — Abundance of Seal-meat soon taken. — Bad Weather. — Sylvia Island. — Lupton Channel.— Jones's Tower. — A Butterfly. — Tupic Encampment. — -'Magnificent Iceberg. — Dine on raw Seal. — New Land. — Remarkable Gap. — Cape Daly. — Hummocky Ice. — Ancient Piles of Stones. — Discover a new Channel. — Dr. Kane's Channel. — Immense number of Seals. — Great Slaughter. — Koodloo still fears the "Dreaded Land." — Charming a Seal. — Abundance of Animal Life. — Afflve at the exti-eme Land. — Ascend a high Mountain. — Ancient Monuments. — Extensive View. — Davis's Straits. — Frobisher Bay. — Meta Incognita. — Resolution Island, and high Land to the North. — Sudden appearance of a Steam-ship. — Disappointment. — Mount Warwick. — A Bear-hunt. — North Foreland. — Return Journey. — Mode of making Traces and Walrus Lines. — Note-book Lost. — Its Recovery. — Heavy Snow-storm. — Encamp on a large Island. — Ancient Dwellings of Innuits.- — Rapid Journey back to the Ship. — Dangerous Traveling. — Ice breaking np. — Safe arrival on Board. — Means of sustaining Life in these Regions 298

Chapter XIX

An Excursion to the Whaling De'pot.- — Passage across Field Bay. — Singular Mode of capturing Seals. — Chapell Inlet. — Cross to Frobisher Bay. — Arrive at the Whaling De'pot. — A large and bustling Place. — Consultation as to Author's Plans. — Vain Hope of pursuing his Voyage. — Puto in Distress. — A Walk to "Bear Sound." — Great number of Pieces of Limestone.- — Boat Trip to Bear Sound. — Velocity of the Tides. — Immense number of Ducks and Wild-fowl. — Eggs obtained in abundance. — "Ice Collars." — Natural Bridges of Ice. — Return to Rescue Harbor. — Stop at French Head. — Corpse of John Brown still there, and unmolested. — Arrive on Board. — Fourth of July again. — Field Bay clearing of Ice. — Look-out Island. — Luxuriant Vegetation. — Musquitoes. — Ugarng's Influence and Character. — A Love Affair. — Little Ookoodlear and the Outcast E-tu. — An CONTENTS.

X unnatural Father.— A Child left deserted on a solitary Island.— Procures Food by catching Partridges with his Hand. — Lives a Hermit Life for Months. — Is rescued by chance Visitors. — Grows to Manhood shunned by all his Race save a few. — Ugarng's generous Protection Page 317

Chapter XX

The George Henry free from her icy Prison.— Dog " Smile" capturing a Seal.— Fresh Fish caught.— Another Trip to the Whaling De'pot. — Immense Flocks of Ducks. —Large Shoals of Walrus.— A Walrus-attack on the Boat.— Islands in Frobisher Bay. — Innuit Diseases. — Consumption. — Sharkey's Wife. — " Las-as-ses." — Innuit love for Sweets.— Return Trip through Lupton Channel.— French Head again.— Corpse of John Brown gone.— All the Ice disappeared.— Great Heat. — Traveling over broken Ice. — Dangerous Leaps. — The Rescue's Ghost. — Superstition of Sailors.— Ice-floes pressing on the Ship.— Great Danger.— The "Ghost" again appears.— Author's attempt to form a Vocabulary. — Aid of Tookoolito. — The Innuits fast passing away.— Return of all the Crew from Whaling De'pot. — Mate Rogers. — Incidents of his Trip up the Bay. — Serious Illness of some Innuits. — Starvation. — A good Harbor. — Eating Ducks raw. — Arrival on Board. — Author's Plans for exploring.— Leaves the Ship. — Takes up Bis Abode with the Natives. — The George Henry departs. — Author's Visit to the Rescue's Hull. — Arctic Robins. — Unexpected Return of the Ship. — Ebierbing sick. — Jennie, the Angeko. — Practice of Ankooting. — Philosophy of the Operation. — Opening for Missionary Enterprise. — Pemmican, best Mode of preparing it. — Author Visits the Ship. — Returns to Whale Island. — Ankooting again. — Solemnity of the Company present. — Superstition. — Nice Distinction as to what is Work. — Final Visit to the Ship. — Natives' Doubts removed. — Crew completed. — The Fashions. — Suzhi the heaviest Innuit. — Preparations for the Boat Voyage nearly made 332

Chapter XXI

Departure on Boat-voyage to explore Frobisher Bay.— An Innuit Crew.— Author the only White Man.— Arrives at Lupton Channel, and makes first Encampment. —Next Day's Journey.— Innuit Mode of drowning Ducks.— Joyousness of the Crew.— Passing through Bear Sound.— Visit the deserted Whaling De'pot.— Second Encampment on Sharko.— Third Day's Trip.— A Bear-hunt in the Water— Author's narrow Escape.— Land on Oopungnewing.— Musquitoes again.— Visit Niountelik.— Explore the Island.— Important Discovery.—" Sea-coal !"— Proof of Frobisher's Expedition having visited here.— Joy of the Author.— Corroborative Testimony of Innuits from Tradition.— Carefully examine a Deposit of Coal— Return to Oopungnewing.-Great Feast on the Bear.— Innuit Customs.— Bear's Bladder and Charms.— Polar Bear's Liver poisonous 352

Chapter XXII

Chewing old Boots— Formation of Icebergs.-Innuits good Anatomists.-Proceed on the Voyage.— Koojesse draughting the Coast.— Sarah G.'s Cape.— Iron Island.— Arrive at Jones's Cape— A Settlement of Innuits.— Native Monuments — Dental Mill for trying out Oil.-Blowing a Gale.-Danger to the Boat-Arrive at Ming-u-toon.-Next Day's Trip.-Great Rise and Fall of Tides. -Boat nearly aground.— Encamp on an Island.— Bones of the Whale and other Animals.— A Grave— Renew the Voyage— A Mill-race of Waters— An exciting Time— Laborious and difficult Work— Beautiful Weather— Arrive at Waddell Bay and make seventh Encampment— Depart again— Meeting with old Artarkparu— A CONTENTS. XI persevering and industrious Cripple. — Proceed toward his Village. — Annawa and other Natives there. — Women busily engaged sewing Skins. — Nursing a big Boy. — A good Feast. — More information about Frobisher's Expedition. — Continue the Voyage. — Numerous Islands.— Eighth Encampment. — Ascend a Mountain. — Re markable Features about it. — Large Caverns. — Huge Rocks ready to Fall. — The Aurora. — C urious Phenomena Page 368

Chapter XXIII

Leave eighth Encampment. — Seals. — Meeting Innuits. — Make ninth Encampment on Rae's Point. — A Seal-feast. — Reindeer Moss abundant. — More traditional History. — Start on Voyage again. — A two-mile Walk over Rocks. — Jack the Angeko. — Ankooting Tweroong. — The two Boats and two Kjas. — Picturesque appearance of the Women Rowers. — The Flag of the Free.— Tenth Encampment. — Icebergs on the Rocks. — Renew the Voyage. — Visit the Island Frobisher's Farthest. — The great Gateway. — President's Seat. — Beautiful and warm Day. — Fine Scenery. — Make eleventh Encampment. — Morning Walk. — Abundance of Game. — Seals and Reindeer in abundance. — The Roar of a Cataract. — Waters alive with Salmon. — Discover the Termination of Frobisher Bay. — Enter an Estuary. — Make Landing. — A Leming. — Tweroong sketches Kingaite Coast. — Reindeer Skins for Clothing. — Luxuriant Fields. — Reindeer Tallow good. — A pedestrian Excursion. — Innuit Monument. — Ancient Dwellings. — Sylvia Grinnell River. — A Pack of Wolves. — Glories of the calm clear Night. — Aurora again. — A Land abounding with Reindeer. — Blueberries. — Method of taking Salmon. — Bow and Arrows 383

Chapter XXIV

Prepare to leave twelfth Encampment. — Proceed on the Voyage. — Passing along Head of Frobisher Bay. — Peale Point. — Bishop's Island. — Land on Kingaite, and make thirteenth Encampment. — Author ascends a Mountain. — The "Stars and Stripes." — A new Country. — Night at the Camp. — Sunlight on the Mountains. — Talk with sick Tweroong. — The Bible. — Innuit Ideas of Heaven and Hell. — Foggy Day. — Aggoun. — Not a Tuktoo, but a Goose. — Vexatious Delays. — Fourteenth Encampment. — A Day of Trials and Discoveries. — Arrive at West side Head of Frobisher Bay. — Jordan's River. — Hazard's Banks. — Explore the new Land. — Beautiful Cascade. — Extensive and verdant Plains. — Brent Geese. — Silliman's Fossil Mount. — Romantic Pass, the Great Gateway. — A white Whale. — An Innuit's ill Humor.— His savage Attack on his Wife.— Another Walk to the Falls- Picturesque Scenery. — Greenwood's Land. — Reindeer. — Start on Excursion to the Great Gateway. — Bad Weather. — Arctic Owl. — Fossils. — Author sick.— Kind Attention of Tweroong. — Dish of Salmon. — Laughable Incident.— Koomuk and Pepper.— Another Excursion. — Visit to Silliman's Fossil Mount 397

Chapter XXV

Departure from Greenwood Land. — Numerous Rocks.— Furious Tides.— Narrow Escape.— Preservation Island.— Beginning of Winter.— Ice forming.— Author's Illness.— Visits the principal Islands at Head of the Bay.— Koojesse a skillful Boatman.— Another critical Position.— Nearly wrecked.— Saved by the rising Tide.— Departure homeward. — The Kingaite Coast.— Boisterous Weather.— Detained on a rugged Island.— Renew the Voyage.— Difficulties with the Innuit Crew. — Freedom and Independence.— Land, and make eighteenth Encampment *" CONTENTS. XII

Chapter XXVI

Continue the Voyage. — Land on an Island. — Innuit Insolence. — Leave Kingaite Coast for the North Side of the Bay of Frobisher. — Arrive at nineteenth Encampment. Innuit Superstition. — Extraordinary Scenes. — Singular Customs. — Twentieth Encampment. — Drinking Deer's Blood. — Twenty-first Encampment. — More Ankooting. — Mystical Songs. — "Fool's Gold." — Parting with old Too-loo-ka-ah. — Arrival at Niountelik.— Proceed to Kodlunarn, or "White Man's" Island. Important Discoveries. — Ship's Trench. — Ruins of Stone Houses. — Coal and Tile. — Return to Niountelik and encamp. — Next Day's Search. — Cruise in " Countess of Warwick Sound." — The American Flag again upraised. — Arrive at Tikkoon. — Discovery of a heavy Piece of Iron. — Passage across the Sound. — Strong Breeze. — Proceed up Victoria Bay. — Magnificent Scenery. — Precipitous Mountains. —A Cave. — A Seal floating on the Waters. — Ekkelezhun. — A fine and secure Harbor. — Discovery of several Tons of Coal and Flint-stones. — Return to Niountelik Page 421

Chapter XXVII

A Storm. — Detained at Niountelik. — Examine the Island. — Another Deposit of Coal found. — Specimens collected. — Revisit Kodlunarn. — Minute Inspection. — More Relics found of Frobisher's Expedition. — A large Piece of Iron. — The "Ship's Trench." — Depart on return to Ship. — Twenty-sixth Encampment. — Revisit the Whaling De'pot. — Passage through Bear Sound. — Twenty-seventh and last Encampment by Lupton Channel. — Innuit Deposits of Food. — Good Faith and Honesty of the Natives toward each other. — Avoidance of the " Dreaded Land." — Last Day's Journey. — Arrive near Parker's Bay. — Anxiety and Excitement as to the Ship. — Gain Sight of her. — Arrival on Board. — All well! 435

Chapter XXVIII

Visit the friendly Natives. — Ebierbing and Tookoolito.- — A Surprise. — Birth of a Son. — Artarkparu's Information. — More concerning Frobisher's Expedition. — A great Number of Innuits around the Ship. — They all concur in the traditionarv History given to me. — Author's Anxiety to renew his Discoveries. — Another Boattrip. — Cross the Bay to Chapell Inlet. — Camp for the Night. — Continue the Voyage. — Bad Weather.— Heavy Gale. — Encamp once more. — Visit an Innuit De'pot of Food. — A severe Hurricane. — Boat-voyage abandoned. — Return to the Ship. — Capture of two Whales. — A Man dangerously hurt by a Whale 442

Chapter XXIX

The Anvil. — Preparations for returning Home. — Excursion to Bavard Taylor Pass. — Hard Climbing. — An extensive View. — The Ice Pack in Davis's Strait. A rapid Descent. — Return to the Ship. — Startling Announcement of Captain B . —Another Winter in the Ice.— General Gloom. — A bitter Disappointment. — How to live and keep Warm.— Innuit Simplicity regarding Money.— Author's Proposition concerning Stores it.

Chapter XXX

Sick Mam-ma-yat-che-ung immured in a living Tomb !— The dving Woman lingers for Weeks, almost starving.— The Aurora Borealis.— A magnificent Display- Strange Custom relating to new Mothers.— Nukertou's Grave.— More singular Customs.— A Talk with the Dead.— Presents to the Departed.— Life in the Win- CONTENTS. XIII ter. — Theatricals on Board. — Henry Smith, the "Negress." — Consternation of some of the Innuits on seeing a black Face. — Another Excursion. — A Winter Sledge-journey.— Old Mother Petato.— Novel Mode of warming the Feet.— More traditionary Statements. — A great Feast. — Frozen Deer. — Deer's Paunch considered delicious Food. — Return to the Ship. — Visit Tikkoon. — Tradition of a Ship built and masted Page 463