Life with the Esquimaux : a narrative of arctic experience in search of survivors of Sir John Franklin's expedition

Preface

Before this hook passes from the Writer's hands into those of the reader, the author will he once more among the ice of the arctic regions. Though the last page of manuscript was written on the morning of his embarkation, the work itself has been no hasty one. He returned nearly two years ago from the expedition which he has endeavoured to describe. Almost every hour since then, which could be spared from the arrangements for his second expedition, has been devoted to the preparation of these volumes from his voluminous journal and notes taken on the spot.

Before dismissing the work, however, from his hands, he wishes to say a few words by way of explanation of certain matters connected with his explorations. The reader will perhaps wonder why so much importance was given to the discovery of the Frobisher relics. He answers, partly because of the interest which attached itself to the remains of men so long ago left in that waste land ; but partly, too, because the discovery of these remains, and the tracing of their history among the Esquimaux, confirmed, in a remarkable manner, his belief that these people retain among them, with great positiveness, the memory of important and strange incidents ; and as their traditions of Frobisher, when the author was able to get at them, were so clear, he is persuaded that among

VI

PEEFACE.

them may be sought, by one competent, with every chance of complete success, the sad history of Sir John Franklins men.

To make himself competent for this more interesting and important research, the author patiently acquired the language and familiarized himself with the habits of the Esquimaux, and he now returns to their country able to speak with them, to live among them, and to support his life in the same manner that they do theirs ; to migrate with them from place to place, and to traverse and patiently explore all the region in which it is reasonable to suppose Franklin’s crew travelled and perished. The two intelligent Esquimaux, Ebierbing and Tookoolito, who accompanied the author on his return home, after remaining with him for two years, go back with him on this second voyage.

The author enters upon this undertaking with lively hopes of success ; he will not, like most previous explorers, set his foot on shore for a few days or weeks, or, like others, journey among men whose language is unintelligible : but he will again°live for two or three years among the Esquimaux, and gain their confidence, with the advantage of understanding the language, and of making all his wishes known to them.

The author cannot close without offering his thanks to the Artists for the beautiful and accurate drawings made by them, under his own eye, from his rough sketches; and to the Engravers and Printers for their constant forbearance in the trouble he gave them, unaccustomed as he was to literary labours, yet anxious to obtain the utmost exactness in his june 30, 1864, on board baric Monticello, bound for the Arctic Regions.

LIST OP ILLUSTRATIONS.

Drawn by Charles Parsons, W. S. L. Jewett, H. L. Stephens, Granville Perkins, and S. Eytinge, after Sketches by the Author, Photographs, and from Implements and Clothing col¬ lected among the Esquimaux.

Coloured.

1. Hall on his Exploring Expedition .... Frontispiece.

2. Festival on the Birthday of the King of Denmark Face Page 48

3. Sealing in the Winter . Face Page 183

4. Harpooning a Walms . Face Page 459

5. Chart, showing Author’s Track and Discoveries. At End of Volume.

Page

6. Tookoolito, C. F. Hall, and Ebierbing . xii

7. Ascent of an Iceberg . 20

8. Portrait of Kndlago . 23

9. Burial of Kndlago . 2^

10. Kudlago’s Monument . 2*>

11. Greenland Currency . 37

12. Greenland Woman and Child . .

13. Dance on board the George Henry

14. Boat-Summerset — Esquimaux Feat

15. Belted Iceberg .

16. Gothic Iceberg .

17. Distorted Moon .

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

viii

Page

18. Last Sight of the Runaways . • 72

19. Iceberg and Ki-a . 78

20. Pipe-Sketch — Clark’s Harbour . 88

21. Sterry’s Tower . 93

22. Frobisher Bay and Grinnell Glacier . 98

23. Esquimaux Chart, drawn by Koojesse . 105

24. Wreck of the Rescue and of the Expedition Boat . . . 121

25. Aurora, November 23, 1860 125

26. Aurora, December 17, I860 126

27. Nikujar, the Boat-steerer and Pilot . 130

28. Bone Sledge-runner . 138

29. Bear Hunt — Tapping the Jugular . 148

30. Egqnimanx Stone Lamp and Fire . 150

31. Ekkeluyun — Salmon-bait . 152

32. The George Henry in Winter Quarters . 154

33. The Dying Esquimaux — Nukertou . 164

34. Storm-bound — Encamped on a Floe . 172

35. Barbekark Killing Reindeer . 194

36. The Lost Found — Frozen Dead . 209

38. Esquimaux and Seal Dog . 214

39. Blind George and his Daughter . 228

40. Igloos or Snow Tillage at Oopungnewing . 233

41. Oodloo, or Woman’s Knife . 240

42. Ookijoxy Ninoo Narrating Traditions . 246

43. Head and Antlers of Arctic Reindeer . 254

44. View from the top of Sylvia Island . 268

45. Encampment at the foot of Jones’s Tower . 270

46. North Foreland of Frobisher . 279

47. Homeward Bound — Ice Breaking up . 283

48. Innuit Strategy to Capture a Seal . 287

49. Scaling an Ice Collar in Bear Sound . 292

50. Dog capturing a Seal . 300

51. French Head . 303

52. The Ghost of the Rescue . 305

53. Passing through Lupton Channel . 320

54. Wounded Ninoo towing his Carcass . 324

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. ix

Page

55. Discovery of Frobisher Relics, August 11, 1861 . . . 329

56. Suzhi’s Boot “Milling” . 334

57. Innuit Monument at Toongwine . 337

58. Innuit Summer Village . 342

59. View at Cape Stevens and Ward’s Inlet . 344

60. Tunukderlien, the Wife of Koojesse . 346

61. Icebergs on the Rocks — Great Fall of Tide . 351

62. Estuary of Sylvia Grinnell River, Head of Frobisher Bay 354

63. Landing for Night’s Encampment . 362

64. Raising the American Flag . 363

65. Silliman’s Fossil Mount . 373

66. A Desperate Pull . 377

67. Frobisher’s Gold Mine or Trench . 389

68. Boat in a Storm . 393

69. One of Frobisher’s Gold Proofs . 299

70. Frobisher Relics in Stockings . 400

71. Oomien, or Women’s Boat . 403

72. Wooden Models of Frobisher’s Anvil . 414

73. Tallow Model of Frobisher’s Anvil . 414

74. Field Bay and Davis’s Strait . 417

75. Aurora seen at Field Bay, November 2, 1861 .... 425

76. Aurora and Meteor of October 13, 1860 . 427

77. Playing the Keeloun . 429

78. The Height of Hospitality . 434

79. Seeking the Lost Village . . 449

80. “ She moved not, she answered not ” . 451

81. Ebierbing awaiting a Seal’s “Blow” . 455

82. Civilization Sledge • • 455

83. The Return from Newton’s Fiord . 464

84. We must Conquer or Starve . 467

85. Arm of the Grinnell Glacier . 473

86. Termination of Ward’s Inlet . 480

87. The Hungry Wolves . 484

88. A Bear Hunt . 486

89. Young Polar coming to the Point . 488

90. Hall and his Expedition crossing Frobisher Bay . . . 492

91. Walrus Skull and Tusks . 494

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Page

92. Fac-simile of Sketch by Ookijoxy Ninoo . 498

93. Monumental Island of Sir John Franklin . 501

94. Gathering Frobisher Relics, July, 1862 . 504

95. Frobisher Relics . 505

96. Sledge-log, Line, and Reel . 510

97. Escape over Drifting Pack — Last Sights . 514

98. Farewell, Innuits . 516

99. Sectional View of Seal Hole and Igloo . 531

100. Esquimaux Watching at Seal Hole ^ . • 532

101. Bear killing Walrus . 535

102. Esquimaux Chart, drawn by Kooperneung . 537

EB1ERBING

TOOKOOLITO,

LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX.

Introduction

As this hook is to he a work of narrative and adventure, and not one of argument and discussion, I shall touch hut very lightly upon those subjects which might lead to the latter, while I endeavour to give as much variety and as much fulness of detail as possible to the former.

That argument and discussion may arise from portions of what I advance is very probable ; but, if so, it will be better to enter upon such in another form than this. Readers very naturally expect to be entertained, as well as, perchance, instructed in what a voyager or traveller puts before them. Long, prosy dissertations are seldom wanted. All that most people require is a truthful report of personal doings in strange lands, and a faithful record of incidents, discoveries, and interesting events connected with them.

Such, then, is the task I have taken in hand, with the hope that a ready excuse will be granted for all those imperfections necessarily consequent upon the mode and manner of my carry¬ ing on the work in which I was engaged. I pledge myself as to the literal accuracy of what I state, and my readers will be able to see, as they move onward with me through my narrative, how difficult it was — alone, and with no other pair of hands, no other mind, no other thought, sense, or perception but my own — to record, day by day, the occurrences that came under my eye.

In addition to this, I had to make all the observations — scientific, geographical, and otherwise — by myself, and this, too, with a knowledge self-acquired, and with instruments so few, and most of them so imperfect, till rectified by myself, that my labours were increased many fold. Thus, in the following pages,

DJTEODUCTION.

let truth, variety of incident, and a faithful report of discotjpry and adventure be alone expected. Elegance of style and diction must not be sought for.

As it will be well to avoid, as much as possible, breaking in upon the thread of my narrative elsewhere, I here give some particulars as to the cause of my embarking on a voyage to the Arctic Seas.

It is well known that, for many years past, the whole civilized world has had its interest attracted toward the polar regions in consequence of the lamentable fate of the •Franklin Expedition. The labours of Great Britain to discover what had become of her lost children, and the sums of money devoted to that pur¬ pose (no less than 2,000,000^. sterling), stand unparalleled in past history. Nor was America behindhand in the generous and humane work. That the missing navigators belonged not to her made no difference. The one general feeling was the same with reference to a desire for participating in the search after those who, having perilled themselves in devotion to science and the good of mankind, had become as brothers to us all. Hence the banner of Columbia floated to the breeze of an Arctic clime, side by side with England’s proud flag, in the noble errand of humanity, for which a goodly fleet of some twenty vessels had been sent forth ! Of the many bright names already chronicled for their generous deeds in connexion with those arctic explorations, need I say that none stand more conspicuous than that of Henry Grinnell ? What he and others have done is so familiar to ail men who know anything of this matter, that I need not reca¬ pitulate what has been so often told ; but I cannot let pass the mention of that one name here without expressing the warm emotions of my own heart. Henry Grinnell has been to me, as he has shown himself to all who were at work in the Franklin search, a true and noble friend. To him I feel more than ordi¬ narily indebted. He not only helped me in my undertaking, but he has cheered me on, and spoken words of comfort and bright hope when my soul was often nearly overwhelmed. The memory of his generous kindness frequently sustained and helped to invigorate me anew, when wearied and exhausted in the wild regions I have lately been exploring. May every blessing, there¬ fore, attend him and his, is my earnest and grateful prayer.

As to the search for Franklin and his brave comrades, who has not heard of its fruitless result ? Money and means ex¬ pended without success ! Large ships and small ships, in magni¬ ficent expeditions, sent out vainly as to the recovery of those

INTRODUCTION.

lost ! True, some discoveries were made, and certain relics and information brought to England by Dr. Eae in 1854, which gave a clue as to where the missing navigators could have been found; but not until Captain M’Clintock, of the British Navy, in the spring of 1859, visited Boothia and King William’s Land, was anything for certain known. Then, at last, we were positively assured of the locality where these martyrs to science had been, when, as a discovered document proved, the ships were abandoned, and the majority of the crews had taken to the shore. This oc¬ curred in April, 1848, and 105 men, as we are told, under com¬ mand of Captains Crozier and Eitzjames, landed at a given spot, with a view of making their escape, if possible, toward their native home. What became of them, except two skeletons found in a boat, and one other near the beach, has not yet been known. Supposition alone has induced the world to believe them all dead ; and, despite proof upon proof, from facts, expe¬ rience, and sound logical reasoning to the contrary, the Govern¬ ment of England, and British naval officials, with some eminent exceptions, have discarded all idea of farther search, though the truth could now so easily be obtained, and the ground to explore so small and comparatively so easy of access !

I will not trouble the reader now with my reasons for making these statements, based, as they are, upon some years of careful study and examination of all that has been said and written upon the subject. Let me here briefly mention why I myself, with no previous experience, and no past history of my own to help me, took it up as I have done.

In one word, then, it seemed to me as if I had been called , if I may so speak, to try and do the work. My heart felt sore at the thought of so great a mystery in connexion with any of our fellow-creatures, — especially akin to ourselves, — yet remaining unsolved. Why could not their true fate be ascertained ? Why should not attempts be made, again and again, until the whole facts were properly known1? Captain (now Sir F. L.) M’Clintock, in 1857-9, had gone forth once more to seek for some elucidation of this mystery, but still I felt that something more might yet be attempted toward co-operating with that brave officer. It was already known that his vessel, the Fox, had been caught in the ice and delayed a whole year. It was possible that she might still not be able to get through to her destination, and therefore I fancied the work could be more effectually done by an independent expedition proceeding in some other direction, afterward to join with M’Clintock, if need be, in his task. Act

INTRODUCTION.

cordingly, I conceived an idea that perhaps the British Govern¬ ment would lend, for a new American expedition, the arctic ship Resolute, which, having been abandoned in the ice, had drifted out, and was picked up in 1855 by Captain James Budington, of New London, who brought her to the States, where she was completely refitted at our national expense, and returned as a generous gift, in amity and good will, to England. I had heard that she was afterward dismantled, and laid up as a hulk in the Biver Medway, and I thought it possible she might now he loaned to us for another attempt to he made under the American flag. A printed petition to the British authorities was got up and signed by S. P. Chase, (then Governor of Ohio), U.S. Senator George Pugh, and Mayor Bishop, of Cincinnati ; hut, before other names were attached to send it to England, M’Clintock re¬ turned with news of what he had discovered. What this was the civilized world is well acquainted with. He had obtained a few facts, but still left the matter very mysterious ! That it could have been otherwise was almost impossible by such a hurried and cursory examination of the ground as he made in spring, when the land is clothed in its winter’s dress. Nor could he obtain much knowledge of the truth by a few casual inter¬ views with detached parties of Esquimaux, through an interpreter who he himself says, “ did not well understand them.’’ No ; neither M’Clintock nor any other civilized person has yet been able to ascertain the facts. But, though no civilized persons knew the truth, it was clear to me that the Esquimaux were aware of it, only it required peculiar tact and much time to induce them to make it known. Moreover, I felt convinced that survivors might yet be found ; and again I said to myself, Since England has abandoned the field (I did not then know there were any fresh efforts in that country to renew the search), let me, an humble citizen of the United States, try to give to my country the glory of still continuing it, and perchance succeed in accomplishing the work. Accordingly, after mature considera¬ tion, I determined to make the effort. But how 1 what were my means ? what the facilities for reaching the coveted goal of my ambition ? Cincinnati, where I then resided, was in a highly civilized part of the world, where ready transit from one place to another could be obtained ; King William’s Land, where I wanted to go, was in the uncivilized and distant regions of the frozen North ! What was I to do ? give it up 1 Perhaps many would say, as some did say, “Yes, what have you to do with it 1 why does it concern you ! Away with the idea ! ” But not so ; my

INTRODUCTION.

convictions were strong, and I could not resist the desire upon me. I determined, therefore, to try ; and, first of all, get what means were in my power, then find a way. Many before me had accomplished much in the world upon as slight a foundation as that of mine. What, then, was to hinder my making the at¬ tempt ? Courage and resolution were all that I needed ; and though some persons might not concur in the wisdom or pru¬ dence of my effort, still, as my mind was upon it, try it I would, and try it I did.

I need not enter upon all the many difficulties I encountered. These fall to the lot of every man who essays to try his hand at something new, and especially so if he starts on a path trodden without success before him. But difficulties sharpen the wit and strengthen the* mind. The experience of my native land was before me in proof of what man could accomplish ; and I can now safely say that, though the obstacles in my way were many and great, I finally succeeded in overcoming them. How I surmounted those difficulties and started upon my voyage can¬ not he told at any length here. Suffice it that I began in Cin¬ cinnati by mentioning my hopes and wishes, and laying my plans before several of the leading men and other persons well known in that city. I also wrote a letter to Mr. George Peabody, of London, stating that, in the event of my not succeeding in any other way to reach the arctic regions, I would attempt it overland by the great Fish Biver. This, however, was only an idea formed in case I could not get a ship of my own, or a con¬ veyance in one by the sea route.

On the 8th of February, 1860, I issued a circular, to which were attached upward of thirty signatures, and among them were the names of W. Dennison, Governor of Ohio ; of the mayor, R. M. Bishop; of Miles Greenwood; Senator Chase; several other persons of note ; and Thomas Hickey, who was with Kane on the second Grinnell expedition. Mr. Hickey sent me a letter which, from its value as the opinion of one competent to judge, deserves notice. I here give an extract from it bearing upon my own ideas. He says : —

“ During the residence of our party in the arctic regions, we experienced many severe trials ; but, I must say, the major part of them emanated from our mode of living. When we lived as Esquimaux, we immediately recovered and enjoyed our usual health. If Providence had so ordered it that we should not find our way back to civilization, but should cast our lot with Esqui¬ maux, I have no doubt we would have lived perhaps quite as

INTRODUCTION.

long, and in quite as good health, as in the United States or England. Had we lost our commander, I confidently believe not one of our expedition would have returned. Our country¬ men might have come to us, but we could not have come to them. White men can live where Esquimaux can, and fre¬ quently where and when they cannot. This I know by expe¬ rience .

“ Little did I think, on returning to the United States with my companions and beloved commander, that I would ever again go to the north; but believing, on my soul, from a practical life in the arctic regions, that you are right in entertaining the opinion that same of Sir J ohn Franklin! s men are yet to he found living with the Esquimaux, and that they should he rescued and restored to their country and friends, I hereby cheerfully offer my services, and volunteer as a member of the expedition you propose to organize.

“ Eor direct evidence of me, and my devotedness to this cause, I would refer you to the written works of him whose memory and name I almost worship — Dr. Kane.”

This confirmation of my views was exceedingly gratifying, but I had one sent to me which still more stamped upon my mind the truth of what I had surmised in respect to the Eranklin Expedition. It was from Henry Grinnell, Esq., of Kew York.

“ New York, March 14, 1860.

“ Mr. C. F. Hall.

“ Dear Sir,— Probably no one in this country is more desirous of arriving at the truth relative to the fate of Sir John Franklin and his party than myself. The fate of Franklin and some of his officers and men is known by the record found on King William’s Land by Captain (now Sir F. L.) M’Clintock ; but the fate of 105 members of Franklin’s Expedition, living on the 25th day of April, 1848, and many other matters important to the history of that expedition, has yet to be determined.

“I believe some of the 105 may yet be found habitants among the Esquimaux of Boothia, of Victoria, or Prince Albert Lands. I farther believe that the graves of Franklin and some of his officers and men, known to be dead, as well as the records of the expedition and many important relics, will be found on King William’s Land, if search be made there in the months of July, August and September.

“ The course you propose to pursue is entirely a new and important one, and I see not why, with the exercise of your

INTRODUCTION.

best judgment, you may not ultimately accomplish all that could be desired in satisfactorily determining many of the unsettled questions indicated above, as well as increasing our geographical knowledge of that portion of the arctic regions over which, you propose to pass.

“ You have my earnest wishes for the accomplishment of the noble object you have in view, and I will cheerfully contribute towards the requisite funds to carry it out.

“ With great regard, I am your friend,

“Henry Grinnell.”

After laying my plans before friends at Cincinnati, I at once started for the Eastern States, with a view of consulting men of experience in the arctic whale fishery, and also calling upon other persons to whom I had letters of introduction.

On the 14th of February I went to New London, where I had an opportunity of meeting many experienced whaling captains, among whom was Captain S. A. Brown, who was very warm and kind in reference to my plans. Captain Christopher Chappel, who had passed a winter in Northumberland Inlet, likewise gave me great hope and encouragement. So did Mr. Thomas W. Perkins, who allowed me access to the logs of various voyages made in the arctic regions by vessels belonging to the late firm of Perkins and Smith. But to Messrs. Williams and Haven, upon whom I called when at New London, I am espe¬ cially indebted. In every possible way they tried to help me as to my plans; and they most liberally tendered me the well-known schooner Rescue, (formerly of the first Grinnel Expedition) for $2,000.

I am also under great obligation to Mr. P. H. Chapel, of the same place, who then displayed — and has so ever since an earnestness in everything connected with arctic research that commands my respect and esteem.

Other persons that I called upon in New London were Captains Sisson, Tyson, Quayle, and S. O. Budington, with whom I after¬ ward embarked on my voyage. Captain Budington had brought to this country an intelligent Esquimaux, named Kudlago, whom I afterward fortunately secured to accompany me as an interpreter.

At Groton I called upon an individual named W. R. Sterry. He had been four voyages to the arctic regions, and spent three winters in Northumberland Inlet. I asked him, how long, at any one time, he had remained with the Esquimaux 1 His reply

INTRODUCTION.

was, two months in the spring of 1855, thirty miles from the vessel, and with three families, consisting of about twenty indi¬ viduals, living in three or four huts.

Sterry was able to give me a great deal of useful information, which all tended the more to confirm my views upon the subject of arctic exploration.

From New London I returned to New York, where the great kindness of Mr. Grinnell, and the friendly attention of several other well-known names, much encouraged me. Promises of assistance were made, and donations tendered toward my expedi¬ tion. Here, by invitation, on March 8th, 1860, I attended an informal meeting of the American Geographical and Statistical Society, to explain my views and intentions. At the meeting I gave a brief statement of my ideas on the subject of Franklin’s Expedition, and argued upon the great probability of some sur¬ vivors yet being found. Soon after this, Messrs. Henry Grinnell, Miles Greenwood, and R. M. Bishop kindly became treasurers of the fund raising for my voyage, and it was now determined to adopt the following plan, which, I may here state, was the one I acted upon, so far as I could, throughout my whole undertaking. I give that plan as promulgated by me at the time. I said, “My object is to acquire personal knowledge of the language and life of the Esquimaux, with a view thereafter to visit the Lands of King William, Boothia, and Victoria; then endeavour, by personal investigation, to determine more satis¬ factorily the fate of the 105 companions of Sir John Franklin now known to have been living on the 25th day of April, 1848.

“ I take with me an Esquimaux interpreter, and during my sojourn in the arctic regions shall employ a crew of natives for the boat accompanying me. With these natives I purpose start¬ ing from Northumberland Inlet, and proceeding up an aim of it that runs westward toward a lake not far from its extremity. This lake will be reached by crossing a small portage. I then shall traverse the lake to its western outlet, which by Esqui¬ maux report, is a navigable river emptying into Fox Channel. On arriving at ‘ Fox’s farthest ’ (lat. 66° 50' N., long. 77° 50' W.), I shall, if practicable, turn to the northward, proceeding on the east side of said channel to the Straits of ‘Fury and Hecla,’ thus uniting the discoveries of Fox in 1631 and Parry in 1821-3.

“ On completing this work I shall cross the strait to Igloolik (lat. 59° 20' N., long. 81° 53' W.), and try to establish friendly

INTRODUCTION.

relations with, the community of Esquimaux known to congre¬ gate at that point. I will there and then decide, by the circum¬ stances, whether to winter at Igloolik, return to Northumberland Inlet, or proceed southward on the east coast of Melville Penin¬ sula to Winter Island, or to push my way directly . westward across the Gulf to Boothia, to Victoria Harbour.

“ During the winter and early spring, sledge-journeys will be undertaken with a view of acquiring a thorough knowledge of the country.

“ When at Northumberland Inlet and other places, I shall carefully examine into the facilities for travelling, so as to decide upon the most practicable course to pursue in my efforts to satis¬ factorily and truthfully determine the history of the Pranklin Expedition.

“ To extend this undertaking to a favourable conclusion will require the assistance of my fellow-countrymen.