Life with the Esquimaux : the narrative of Captain C. F. H. ... from the 29th May, 1860, to the 13th Sept, 1862. With ... the discovery of actual relics of Martin Frobisher ... and deductions in favour of yet discovering some of the survivors of Sir J. Franklin's Expedition. With maps and ......

Front matter

LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. TOOKOOLITO, C. 1*'. HALL, AND EB1E11B1NG. LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX: THE NARRATIVE OF CAPTAIN CHARLES FRANCIS HALL, OF THE WHALING BARQUE " GEORGE HENRY," FROM THE 29th MAY, 1860, TO THE 13th SEPTEMBER, 1862.. WITH THE RESULTS OF A LONG INTERCOURSE "WITH THE INNUITS, AND FULL DESCRIPTION OF THEIR MODE OF LIFE, THE DISCOVERY OF ACTUAL RELICS OF THE EXPEDITION OF MARTIN FROBISHER OF THREE CENTURIES AG-O, AND DEDUCTIONS IN FAVOUR OF YET DISCOVERING SOME OF THE SURVIVORS OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN'S EXPEDITION. Mitjj Pags anb @tw |)unbrfb Illustrations. IN TWO VOLUMES, VOL. I. LONDON : SAMPSON LOW, SON, AND MAESTON, 14, LUDGATE HILL. 1864.

Preface

. Before these volumes pass from the writer's hands into those of the reader, the author will be once more among the ice of the arctic regions. Though the last page of manuscript was written on the morning of his embarkation, the work itself has been no hasty one. He returned nearly two years ago from the expedition which he has endeavoured to describe. Almost every hour since then, which could be spared from the arrangements for his second expedition, has been devoted to the preparation of these volumes from his voluminous journal and notes taken on the spot. Before dismissing the work, however, from his hands, he wishes to say a few words by way of explanation of certain matters connected with his explorations. The reader will perhaps wonder why so much importance was given to the discovery of the Frobisher relics.

He answers, partly be cause of the interest which attached itself to the remains of men so long ago left in that waste land ; but partly, too, because the discovery of these remains, and the tracing of their history among the Esquimaux, confirmed, in a remarkable manner, his belief that these people retain among them, with great positiveness, the memory of important and strange incidents ; and as their traditions of Frobisher, when the author was able to get at them, were so clear, he is per suaded that among them may be sought, by one competent, with every chance of complete success, the sad history of Sir John Franklin's men.

PREFACE.

. VIII To make himself competent for this more interesting and important researcb, the author patiently acquired the lan guage and familiarized himself with the habits of the Esqui maux, and he now returns to their country able to speak with them, to live among them, and to support his life in the same manner that they do theirs ; to migrate with them from place to place, and to traverse and patiently explore all the region in which it is reasonable to suppose Franklin's crew travelled and perished. The two intelligent Esquimaux, Ebierbing and Tookoolito, who accompanied the author on his return home, after remaining with him for two years, go back with him on this second voyage. The author enters upon this undertaking with lively hopes of success ; he will not, like most previous explorers, set his foot on shore for a few days or weeks, or, like others, journey among men whose language is unintelligible : but he will again live for two or three years among the Esquimaux, and gain their confidence, with the advantage of understanding the language, and of making all his wishes known to them.

The author cannot close without offering his thanks to the Artists for the beautiful and accurate drawings made by them, under his own eye, from his rough sketches ; and to the Engravers and Printers for their constant forbearance in the trouble he gave them, unaccustomed as he was to literary labours, yet anxious to obtain the utmost exactness in his narrative. C. F. H. June 30, 1864, on hoard bark Monticello, bound for the Arctic Regions. CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION" Page 1

Chapter I

Departure — " Rescue" Schooner — Names of Crew — Outfit — Seasickness — First Sight of Whales — William Sterry — Banks of Newfoundland — Storm at Sea — "Sulphur Bottoms" — The first Iceberg — The Danish Brig " Mariane" — Death and Burial of Kudlago — Ilalibut and Codfish — First Meeting with Esquimaux — Native Pilots — Ephraim's Pants — Midnight Sun — Arrival at Holsteinborg 15

Chapter II

Land and Visit the Governor — Brief History of Greenland — The Holsteinborg District — Esquimaux and European Population — Protection and Care of the Natives by the Danish Croion — Plagues of Greenland — Dinner at the Governor's — M'Clintock 's Work — The Priest's Wife — Visit the Government Buildings — Arrival of tlie " Rescue " — Lars's Care for his Family — Dance on Shore — A Mountain Excursion — Action of Freezing Water in Crevices — Esquimaux Amusements — Schools and Printing 39

Chapter III

Visit of Governor Elbcrg to the Ship — Adam Beck — Another Mountain Ascent — The " Woman's Hood" — A grand Scene — Ball on board Ship — Sun's Eclipse — Danger to Ship and Boat in,- a Gale — Curious Esquimaux Feats — Mishap to the "George Henry's" Windlass — A stirring Picture — Letters Home — Leave-taking X CONTEXTS.

Chapter IV

Crossing Davis's Straits— Changing Appearance and Movements of Icebergs — Beautiful Sunsets and Morning Skies— Refraction— Mountains "hanging on a Thread "—God's living Arches— Approach to Land— Fogs - Another Gale —Desperate Party of runaway Seamen,— Horrible Tale of Starvation and Cannibalism— Anchor in Kowtukjua Harbour Page 79

Chapter V

Visited by the Natives — Brief Account of some of them — A very aged Woman — Oo-ki-jox-y Ni-noo — Ugarng and his thirteen Wives — Ebierbing and Tookoolito — Eudlaejo' s Widow, Kok-er-jab-in — " Blind George" — Excursion on Shore — Anecdote of the Greenland Dogs — Beautiful Scenery — An Alabaster Cave — Arctic Food — First Taste of Bear-meat— A Blind Man threading a Needle and mending Clothes — Astonishment created by a Magnet — Author's narrow Escape from Death — Geological Character of the Rocks — Departure for and Arrival at Field Bay — A Cruise in the "Rescue " — Arrival in new Waters 97

Chapter VI

First Visit to Frobisher Bay — "Meta Incognita" — Fossils — Koo-jesse and his Family — Old Artarkparu — The beautiful Kok-er-zhun — Skinning Ducks — Esquimaux Food — Native Mode of Sleeping — Innuit Head-ornaments — White Man's Grave — Esquimaux Grave — Innuit Skill in Geography — Aurora Borealis — Visited by Numbers of the Natives — Skill of the Women at Work — Trial of the Expedition Boat — Ancient Dwellings of the Innuits — A Mountain Pass — Whale captured— Great Feast for the Natives — Autlwr's first Trial at raw Whale-meat — Discovery of a Frobisher Relic . . . 118

Chapter VII

Boat Incident — Life hanging on a Shoe-string— Couracje of Esquimaux Boys Arrival of the " Georgiana " — Author's Sickness and Recovery— Attention of the Natives — A fearful Gale — The "Rescue" and the Expedition Boat wrecked — The "Georgiana" on Shore — Tlie "George Henry" in great I lunger *jgg CONTENTS. XI

Chapter VIII

Splendid Displays of tlie Aurora — Arrival of Captain Parker in the " True-love" — Visit to his Ship — Nikujar the Pilot — First Interview with the Innuits Ebierbing and Tookoolito— Their previous Visit to England and Presentation to Royalty — Snow-storm — A natural Causeway — Fluctuations of the Conyyass Needle — Tookoolito at Work — She tries to Educate her People — Her Poivcr to do Good — Advantages of a Mission Colony— ' ' Carl Petersen," M'Clintock 's Interpreter — Tookoolito rebuking Swearers . . . Page 151

Chapter IX

Visit lo Esquimaux Village — First Specimen of domestic Life among the Innuits — Female Tongues good Cleaners — The Angeko's Power — Mysteries of Innuit Worship — Choice of Wives — Curious Guide Poles to Travellers — Charley's Independence of Angeko — Ship beset in the Ice — Sudden Movements of the Ice — Frozen in — A Bear-hunt — Visit the Tupic of Ebierbing — Scarcity of Innuit Food and Fuel — The Esquimaux Lamp — Patience and Perseverance of an Innuit Hunter— An Igloo 170

Chapter X

Remarkable Echo — Visit of " Sampson " — Innuit mode of Washing the Face— "Bridge of Sighs" — Mothers nursing their Children — Serviceable Hoods — Tails of Innuit Dresses — Extraordinarily mild Weather — Kelp used for Food — Christmas and Neiv Year's Day — Sick Nukertou — Cruel Abandonment — Innuit Superstitions — Author's lonely Watch — Koojycrarchu's Death — Innuit Idea of a Future State 185

Chapter XI

Rough Travelling overland— High Cliffs— Descent of the Sledge on to the frozen Sea — Camp on the Ice — First Night in an Igloo — Dangerous Travelling — Second Night on the Ice— An icy Beard— Hair-cutting— Fearful Peril— Deep Snow — Treacherous Footing — Arrive at Rogers' s Island — Great Thirst — Innuit Welcome — A Cup of Water — Night's Rest — Disappearance of the Ice — Remarkable Preservation— Frostbites— A serriccablcpocket Mirror— Whale-skin eaten as food— Innuit Seal-hunting — Starving Condition of the Parly . CONTENTS. XII

Chapter XII

Writing under Difficulties — No Fire or Lamp— Only two Inches of Black Skin for Food— Ravenous Hunger of the Dogs— Ebierbing's Return— A Seal captured— Supplies from the Ship— Great Consumption of Food at a time ■ —Old Ookijoxy Ninoo's Dream — Tobacco-juice useful— Watching for tin- Seal— Innuit Endurance of Cold— Mode of cooking and partaking of Innuit. Food— Burning the Fingers with cold Brass— First Reindeer seen— Author visits Kowtukjua, Clark's Harbour, and Ookoolear, Allen's Island— Tookoolito's Sadness— Quick Journey— Plaintive Look of a Seal— Arrive at the "George Henry" PaSp 219

Chapter XIII

Irksome Change from a Snow Bouse to the Ship's Cabin-Native Village on fjic Ice— Scurvy mi Board— Best Cure for it— A Reindeer Hunt— Dogs in Chase— A Venison Feast for the Ship's Crew— Some of the sick Crew sent to live with the Natives— Tlie Innuit King-wat-che-ung—His Kindness to White Men — One of the Sailors missing — The missing Man's Tracks; his erratic Movements; he gets confused and. goes Seaward; has a Rest in the Snow ; moves on again, and proceeds Miles from the Ship ; his Scramble round an Iceberg — Author and his Companion exhausted — Temptation to lie down and sleep — Sledge arrives from the Ship — Search continued— Tracks lead lo the Shore— Signs of a fearful Struggle— Discovery of the Body, frozen stiff— Ground too hard to dig a Grave — Cover the Corpse with Ice and Snow — Return to the Ship -?'*t

Chapter XIV

Visited by more Innuits— Perils on the Ice — Innuits carried out to Sea —Starvation — Dogs eaten — Three months away from Land — Return of the Party, mere Skeletons — Thrilling Incidents — An Innuit carried down by a Whale and afterwards saved — A Man's Leg snapped off — Suzhi' s Husband killed by an Avalanche — Incidents of White Men's Perils and Escapes — Heavy Snowstorm — Danger to Mate Rogers and his Innuit Guide — Dog Barbekark saves them — Commencement of Spring — Author's Occupations — Makes some Instruments for his Use in exploring — Plans— Strange Information gathered from the Natives-Tradition concerning White Men — Frobisher's Expedition . . CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter XV

First Excursion in Frobisher Bay — Travelling on the Ice — A Tradition concerning White Men masting a Ship — The Innuit Village — Twer-puk-ju-a, — Sterry living with the Natives — "Charming" a Seal — Kokerjabin' s Birthplace — Kingaite — Karmowong — A uthor adopts Innuit Life — Trip along the Coast — The "Ice-foot" — Summer Resting-places of the Innuits — Sundry Articles belongingtoa wrecked Ship— Grandeur of Kingaite Mountains— Tlie Grinnell Glaciei — A Seal Hunt — Feasting — The Seal's Eyes given to youngest Child — Knowledge coming to an Inquirer — Tide entering the Igloos at Night — Author becomes an Angeko — Return Journey — Laughable Incident — A tight Fit — Curious Mountain Mark — Abundance of Animal Life — Arrival at Twerpukjua and at Annawa's — An animated Sunday Picture . Page 277

Chapter XVI

Snow-blindness— Month of May — Ship released from her Ice-fetters — A spirited Scene — Sledge-dogs at full Speed — Terrific Encounter with a Bear — A Toss in the Air — A powerful Innuit — The aged Woman, Ookijoxy Ninoo — Tookoolito Interpreter — Important Information — Traditions relating lo While Men very many Years ago — Ships with many People had arrived —Two Innuit Women taken away — Five Innuits killed by White Men— Five While Men among the Innuits — Written History confirmed by Oral Tradition — Barrow's History of Arctic Discovery— Relics of the White Men to be found — Wood, Coal, Brick, Iron — Innuits must p>osscss the Truth concerning Franklin's Expedition — Tlie Dreaded Land — Preparations for Summer Work — lec — Pools of Wider formed — Arrive on Land — Extensive View — A beautiful * Grassy Plain — Comparison with Greenland — Lands behind the Coast, at this part, very fertile 296

Chapter XVII

A successful Deer-hunt — Se-ko-se-lar Innuits — The Land Pass — Magnificent Scenery — Countess of Warwick Sound — Important Discovery — Relic of Frobisher's Expedition — Sledge-drive in a Snow-storm — Value of a Compass — Safe Arrival on Board — State of the Ice — The Whale D(p6t — Stranger Innuits arrive — Two boats of White Men land on the Coast — After-knowledge of the Truth — Loss of the English Store-ship "Kilty " — The Locality of Sekoselar — Tradition of Parry's Voyage — Old Innuits remember visiting him — Sekoselar Innuits dislike civilization Food — " Barbarous Stuff" — Physical Superiority of the Sekoselar Men A LIST OE THE ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOL. I. Drawn by Charles Parsons, W. S. L. Jewett, H. L. Stephens, Granville Perkins, and S. Eytinge, after Sketches by the Author, Photographs, and from Implements and.

Clothing collected among the Esquimaux. 1. Chart, showing Author's Track and Discoveries . At End of Volume. 2. Tookoolito, C. F. Hall, and Ebierbing Frontispiece. 3. Ascent of an Iceberg Page 24 4. Portrait of Kudlago 28 5. Burial of Kudlago 30 6. Kudlago's Monument 31 7. Greenland Currency 45 8. Greenland Woman and Child 53 9. Festival on the Birthday of the King of Denmark 60 10. Dance on Boai*d the George Henry 70 11. Boat-Summerset — Esquimaux Feat 73 12. Belted Iceberg 81 13. Gothic Iceberg 82 14. Distorted Moon 84 15. Last Sight of the Runaways 90 16. Iceberg and Kia 96 17. ripe-Sketch— Clark's Harbour 108 18. Steny's Tower 114 19. Frobisher Bay and Grinnell Glacier 119 20. Esquimaux Chart, drawn by Koojesse 127 21. Wreck of the Rescue and of the Expedition Boat 147 22. Aurora, November 23, 1860 152 23.

Aurora, December 17, 1860 A LIST OF THE ILLUSTRATIONS. Page. 24. Nikujar, the Boat-steerer and Pilot 159 25. Bone Sledge-runner 169 26. Bear Hunt — Tapping the Jugular 181 27. Esquimaux Stone Lamp and Fire 183 28. Ekkeluyun— Salmon-bait 184 29. The George Henry in Winter Quarters 186 30. The Dying Esquimaux — Nukertou 200 31. Storm-bound — Encamped on a Floe 209 32. Head and Antlers of Arctic Reindeer 218 33. Sealing in the Winter 223 34. Barbekark Killing Reindeer ... - 238 35. The Lost Found — Frozen Dead 256 36. Parhelia, or Mock Suns 261 37. Esquimaux and Seal Dog 263 38. Blind George and his Daughter 281 39. Igloos, or Snow Village, at Oopungnewing 291 40. Oodloo, or Woman's Knife 295 41. Ookijoxy Ninoo Narrating Traditions LIFE WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. INTEODUCTION. As this book is to be a work of narrative and adventure, and not one of argument and discussion, I shall touch but very lightly upon those subjects which might lead to the latter, while I endeavour to give as much variety and as much fulness of detail as possible to the former.

That argument and discussion may arise from portions of what I advance is very probable ; but, if so, it will be better to enter upon such in another form than this. Eeaders very naturally expect to be entertained, as well as, perchance, instructed in what a voyager or traveller puts before them. Long, prosy dissertations are seldom wanted. All that most people require is a truthful report of personal doings in strange lands, and a faithful record of incidents, discoveries, and interesting events connected with them. Such, then, is the task I have taken in hand, with the hope that a ready excuse will be granted for all those imperfections necessarily consequent upon the mode and manner of my carrying on the work in which I was engaged. I pledge myself as to the literal accuracy of what I state, and my readers will be able to see, as they move onward with me through my narrative, how difficult it was — alone, and with no other pair of hands, no other mind, no other thought, sense, or perception but my own— to record, day by day, the occurrences that came under my eye. In addition to this, I had to make all the observations- — scientific, geographical, and otherwise — by myself, and this, VOL. I. B

Introduction

. too, with a knowledge self-acquired, and with nstruments so few, and most of them so imperfect, till rectified by myself, that my labours -were increased many fold. Thus, in the following pages, let truth, variety of incident, and a faithful report of discovery and adventure be alone expected. Ele gance of style and diction must not be sought for. As it will be well to avoid, as much as possible, breaking in upon the thread of my narrative elsewhere, I here give some particulars as to the cause of my embarking on a voyage to the Arctic Seas. It is well known that, for many years past, the whole civilized world has had its interest much attracted toward the polar regions in consequence of the lamentable fate of the Franklin Expedition. The labours of Great Britain to discover what had become of her lost children, and the sums of money devoted to that purpose (no less than 2,000,000'. sterling), stand unparalleled in past history.

Nor was America behindhand in the generous and humane work. That the missing navigators belonged not to our own beloved land made no difference. The one general feeling was the same with reference to a desire for participating in the search after those who, having perilled themselves in devotion to science and the good of mankind, had become as brothers to us all. Hence the banner of Columbia — the glorious stars and stripes — floated to the breeze of an Arctic clime, side by side with England's proud flag, in the noble errand of humanity, for which a goodly fleet of some twenty vessels had been sent forth ! Of the many bright names already chronicled for their generous deeds in connexion with those arctic explora tions, need I say that none stand more conspicuous than that of Henry Grinnell?

What he and others have done is so familiar to all men who know anything of this matter, that I need not recapitulate what has been so often told ; but I cannot let pass the mention of that one name here without expressing the warm emotions of my own heart. Henry Grinnell has been to me, as he has shown himself to all who were at work in the Franklin search, a true and noble friend.

INTRODUCTION.

. 3 To him I feel more than ordinarily indebted. He not only helped me in my undertaking, but he has cheered me on, and spoken words of comfort and bright hope when my soul was often nearly overwhelmed. The memory of his generous kindness frequently sustained and helped to invigorate me anew, when wearied and exhausted in the wild regions I have lately been exploring. May every blessing, therefore, attend him and his, is my earnest and grateful prayer. As to the search for Franklin and his brave comrades, who has not heard of its fruitless result ? Money and means expended without success ! Large ships and small ships, .in magnificent expeditions, sent out vainly as to the recovery of those lost ! True, some discoveries were made, and certain relics and information brought to England by Dr. Bae in 1854, which gave a clue as to where the missing navigators could have been found ; but not until Captain M'Clintock, of the British Navy, in the spring of 1859, visited Boothia and King William's Land, was anything for certain known.

Then, at last, we were positively assured of the locality where these martyrs to science had been, when, as a discovered document proved, the ships were abandoned, and the majority of the crews had taken to the shore. This occurred in April, 1848, and 105 men, as we are told, under command of Captains Crozier and Fitzjames, landed at a given spot, with a view of making their escape, if possible, toward their native home. What became of them, except two skeletons found in a boat, and one other near the beach, has not yet been known. Supposition alone has induced the world to believe them all dead ; and, despite proof upon proof, froni facts, experience, and sound logical reasoning to the contrary, the Government of England, and British naval officials, with some eminent exceptions, have discarded all idea of farther search, though the truth could now so easily be obtained, and the ground to explore so small and comparatively so easy of access !

I will not trouble the reader now with my reasons for making these statements, based, as they are, upon some years of careful study and examination of all that has been said b

INTRODUCTION.

. and written upon the subject. Let me here briefly mention why I myself, with no previous experience, and no past history of my own to help me, took it up as I have done. In one word, then, it seemed to me as if I had been called, if I may so speak, to try and do the work. My heart felt sore at the thought of so great a mystery in connexion with any of our fellow-creatures, — especially akin to ourselves, — yet remaining unsolved. Why could not their true fate be ascertained ? Why should not attempts be made, again and again, until the whole facts were properly known ? Captain (now Sir F. L.) M'Clintock, in 1857-9, had gone forth once more to seek for some elucidation of this mystery, but still I felt that something more might yet be attempted toward co operating with that brave officer. It was already known that his vessel, the Fox, had been caught in the ice and delayed a whole year.

It was possible that she might still not be able to get through to her destination, and therefore I fancied the work could be more effectually done by an independent expedition proceeding in some other direction, afterward to join with M'Clintock, if need be, in his task. Accordingly, I conceived an idea that perhaps the British Government would lend, for a new American expedition, the arctic ship Resolute, which, having been abandoned in the ice, had drifted out, and was picked up in 1855 by Captain James Budington, of New London, who brought her to the States, where she was completely refitted at our national expense, and returned as a generous gift, in amity and good will, to England.1 I had heard that she was afterward dismantled, and laid up as a hulk in the Biver Medway, and I thought it possible she might now be loaned to us for another attempt to be made under the American flag.

A printed petition to the British authorities was gotten up and signed by S. F. Chase (then Governor of Ohio), TJ. S. Senator George Pugh, and Mayor Bishop, of Cincinnati ; but, before other names were attached to send it to England, M'Clintock returned with news of what he had discovered. What this was the civilized world is w-ell acquainted with. He had obtained a few facts, but still left

INTRODUCTION.

. the matter very mysterious ! That it could have been other wise was almost impossible by such a hurried and cursory examination of the ground as he made in spring, when the land is clothed in its winter's dress. Nor could he obtain much knowledge of the truth by a few casual interviews with detached parties of Esquimaux, through an interpreter who he himself says, " did not well understand them." No ; neither M'Clintock nor any other civilized person has yet been able to ascertain the facts. But, though no civilized persons knew the truth, it was clear to me that the Esquimaux were aware of it, only it required peculiar tact and much time to induce them to make it known. Moreover, I felt convinced that survivors might yet be found ; and again I said to myself, Since England has abandoned the field (I did not then know there were any fresh efforts in that country to renew the search), let me, an humble citizen of the United States, try to give to the Stars and Stripes the glory of still continuing it, and perchance succeed in accomplishing the work.

Accordingly, after mature consideration, I determined to make the effort. But how ? what were my means ? what the facilities for reaching the coveted goal of my ambition ? Cincinnati, where I then resided, was in a highly civilized part of the world, where ready transit from one place to another could be obtained; King William's Land, where I wanted to go, was in the uncivilized and distant regions of the frozen North ! What was I to do ? give it up ? Perhaps many would say, as some did say, " Yes, what have you to do with it ? why does it concern you ? Away with the idea ! " But not so ; my convictions were strong, and I could not resist the desire upon me. I determined, therefore, to try ; and, first of all, get what means were in my power, then find a way. Many before me had accomplished much in the world upon as slight a foundation as that of mine.

What, then, was to hinder my making the attempt ? Courage and resolution were all that I needed ; aud though some persons might not concur in the wisdom or prudence of my effort, still, as my mind was upon it, try it I would, and try it I did.

INTRODUCTION.

. I need not enter upon all the many difficulties I encountered. These fall to the lot of every man who essays to try his hand at something new, and especially so if he starts on a path trodden without success before him. But difficulties sharpen the wit and strengthen the mind. The experience of my native land was before me in proof of what man covdd accomplish ; and I can now safely say that, though the obstacles in my way were many and great, I finally succeeded in overcoming them. How I surmounted those difficulties and started upon my voyage cannot be told at any length here. Suffice it that I began in Cincinnati by mentioning my hopes and wishes, and laying my plans before several of the leading men and other persons well known in that city. I also wrote a letter to Mr. George Peabody, of London, stating that, in the event of my not succeeding in any other way to reach the arctic regions, I would attempt it overland by the great Fish Biver.

This, however, was only an idea formed in case I could not get a ship of my own, or a conveyance in one by the sea route. On the 8th of February, 1860, I issued a circular (vide Appendix), to which were attached upward of thirty signa tures, and among them were the names of W. Dennison, Governor of Ohio ; of the mayor, K. M. Bishop ; of Miles Greenwood ; Senator Chase ; several other persons of note ; and Thomas Hickey, who was with Kane on the second Grinnell expedition. Mr. Hickey sent me a letter which, from its value as the opinion of one competent to judge, deserves notice. I here give an extract from it bearing upon my own ideas. He says : — " During the residence of our party in the arctic regions, we experienced many severe trials ; but, I must say, the major part of them emanated from our mode of living.

When we lived as Esquimaux, we immediately recovered and enjoyed our usual health. If Providence had so ordered it that we should not find our way back to civilization, but shoidd cast our lot with Esquimaux, I have no doubt we would have lived perhaps quite as long, and in quite as good health, as in

INTRODUCTION.

. 7 the United States or England. Had we lost our commander, I confidently believe not one of our expedition would have returned. Our countrymen might have come to us, but we could not have gone to them. White men can live where Esquimaux can, and frequently where and when they cannot This I know by experience " Little did I think, on returning to the United States with my companions and beloved commander, that I would ever again go to the north ; but believing, ou my soul, from 'a practical life in the arctic regions, that you are right in enter taining the opinion that some of Sir John Franklin's men arc yet to be found living ivith the Esquimaux, and that they should be rescued and restored to their country and friends, I hereby cheerfully offer my services, and volunteer as a member of the expedition you propose to organize.