Narrative of the United States' Exploring Expedition during ... 1838 ... 1842. Condensed and abridged

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*A »• TH fTED STATES' £ X P h 6 II INO EXPEDITION: iS to 1842, N'SED AND [BGED, • I Aa. . HIA LANE. ■ ■ WHITTAKER'S POPULAR LIBRARY. COFVE19HT EDITIONS. IN MEDIUM OCTAVO, UNIFOKM WITH " D'lSUAELl'S CURIOSITIES OF LITERATURE," " byron's and scott's" Works, &c. To be issued occasionally, and in wrappers, so that they may be bound according to the inclination of the purchaser, separately pr together. It is the object of the present series of Publications to present to the large and still increasing class of readers with whom economy is an object, not merely books that have already been presented in a variety of shapes, but approved works to which valuable copyrights are attached, and which have hitherto only appeared in a more expensive form. If knowledge is to be universally disseminated, it is desirable that the latest and best should be given ; but in consequence of the very just but heavy expense of copyright, it frequently happens that works of merit do not become generally circulated until a large portion of their contents are obsolete.

This remark cannot, of course, apply to the great moral and imaginative writers of the nation, but to works of information, such as Histories, Biographies, and Scientific Works, which admit of accession of matter from new discoveries and researches. It may therefore be considered, notwithstanding the numerous reprints now issuing, that the present is a novel experiment; and it is undoubtedly one that can only be remunerated by a very extensive sale. The series now offered will equal in mechanical execution and cheapness any yet published ; and it will have the. additional advantage of containing the productions of some of the most approved Modern Writers ol History, Biosraphy, and Fiction. WHITTAKER & CO, AVE MARIA LANE, LONDON. NARRATIVE of the UNITED STATES' EXPLORING EXPEDITION, during the years 1838, 1839, 1840, 1841, 1842.

B1 CHARLES WILKES, U.S.N. commander of the expedition, MEMBER OF THE AMERICAN PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETY, &C. CONDENSED AND ABRIDGED. LONDON: WHITTAKER AND CO., AVE MARIA LANE.

Chapter I. Madeira

DEPARTURE FROM THE UNITED STATES — VOYAGE TO MADEIRA — ARRIVAL AT FUNCHAL — APPEARANCE OF MADEIRA FROM THE SEA — LANDING AT PUNCH AL— VISIT TO THE CIVIL AND MILITARY GOVERNORS— STREETS, AND MODE OP TRANSPORTATION — CRIMINALS AND PRISONS — VILLA OF CARVALHAL — CONVENT — RIDES IN MADEIRA — CURRAL — EXCURSION TOWARDS THE EAST END OF THE ISLAND — POPULATION OF MA DEIRA— WINE— GOVERNMENT- CHARACTER OF THE INHABITANTS — DRESS — DWELLINGS — MODE OF TRAVELLING — EMPLOYMENTS OF THE PEOPLE — WINE-MAKING LOWER CLASSES — ASCENT OF PICO RUIVO — NATURAL HISTORY — QUINTA OF MR. BEAN — DEPAR- TURE FROM MADEIRA. The command of the Exploring Expedition de volved upon me, by orders from the Hon. Mahlon Dickerson, then secretary of the navy, on the 20th of March, 1838. On my arrival at Norfolk, I found every thing in a state of forwardness, and the squadrons in Hampton Roads, whither they had dropped down on the 8th of August.

On the 17th of August I received my sailing instructions*, and final orders to put to sea the moment I was ready. The signal was accordingly made that the squadron was under sailing orders, and at 11 a.m. all hands were called to muster, and divine service was performed. The day was beautiful, the sea smooth, and the wind light I shall never forget the impressions that crowded on me during that day in the hours of service. We were admonished in the discourse to repose confi dence in the aid and protection of Him whom all hands had been called to worship, and the admo nition was well calculated to do us good. Our squadron was composed of the following vessels. The Vincennes, a sloop of war of 780 tons, originally single-decked, but in consequence of the intended cruise, a light deck was put on her for the protection of the men and to afford more room.

The accommodations thus became those of a small frigate. Orders were now given to rendezvous, in case of separation, at Madeira. It was soon found, in the trial of the sailing qualities of the vessels, that the Relief was unsuited to act with the rest without great detention, and after four days I determined to part company with her, giving her orders to proceed to the Cape de Verdes. The novelty of our situation was quite enough to interest all ; free communications were had, and endeavours were made to excite a general interest in all the objects that were passing about us. It was amusing to see all entering into the novel occupation of dissecting the fish taken, and to hear scientific names bandied about between Jack and his shipmates. On the 25th of August our winds became favour able, and we were enabled to lay our course towards Madeira.

I continued to keep the direction of the Gulf Stream towards the Western Islands. We felt its influence until we reached the longitude of 48° W., and found it to set for the last few days to the northward of east. The winds had been light and the sea smooth, indicating no other im pulse than the flow of the stream. The temperature gradually decreased from 83° to 75°. On the night of the 26th we parted company with the Peacock and Flying-Fish in a squall, and did not again meet them until we reached Madeira. The 5th of September, being near the reported shoal of St. Anne, I determined to pass over its position. On the 6th we passed over it, the sea was smooth, the horizon clear, and the day beautiful. At 8 a.m. the look-out cried out, " Rocks or a wreck on the starboard bow I" which at once created an excitement on board.

We stood for it. It had at first every appearance of a rock, then that of a wreck with the masts gone. It proved, however, to be a large tree of cotton-wood, one The Peacock, a sloop of war of 650 tons, originally built with a deck like that of the Vincennes. She had made two cruises previous to her sailing in 1838. The Porpoise, a gun-brig of two-aud-thirty tons; the tender Sea-Gull of 110 tons; the tender Flying- Fish of 96 tons; and the Relief, a new vessel, originally intended as a store-ship for the navy. She was built for carrying, and her slow rate of sailing made her ill adapted for the cruise. Dated Ulh August, 1833. See Appendix A. B Camera de Lobos. 2 Funchal. Velocity of waves. MADEIRA Before sunset we cast anchor > company with the Porpoise and Sea-Gull, and were the m -xt morning joined by the Peacock ano rlying-risli.

Shortly after coming to anchor, we were boarded by the health officer, with the captain 6* the port, who, on being assured of our good healtii. gave us permission to land. The United States' consul, Henry John Burden, esq., also came on boarJ, and kindly offered us all the attention that lay i.i his hundred and twenty feet in length, and fourteen feet in circumference at the height of five feet above the roots. It had been a long time in the water, was full of barnacles, and much eaten by the teredo navalis. Great quantities of fish were about it, consisting of dolphins, sharks, lie. We did not, however, succeed in taking any. In rough weather it might easily have been mistaken for a rock, particularly if passed in twilight, or at night. In consequence of the wind being from the southward aud westward, I was compelled, after making the Peak of Pico, to go to the northward of St. Michael's. I am satisfied, however, it is much better to keep to the southward, as the wind will be found more steady and stronger.

Besides, the current, at that season of the year, sets to the westward among the islands. As we passed St. Michael's, we amused ourselves by a view, through our glasses, of its villas, groves, and cultivated fields. power. The first appearance of Madeira did not come up to the idea we had formed of its beauties fron the glowing description of travellers. It exhibited nothing to the distant view but a bare and broken rock, of huge dimensions, which, though grand aud imposing, is peculiarly dark and gloomy, and it was not until we had made our way close under the land, that we could discover the green patches which are every where scattered over its dark red soil, even to the tops of the highest peaks. The mountain verdure was afterwards discovered to be owing to groves of heath and broom, which grow to an extraordinary height, aspiring to the stature of forest trees.

In addition to these groves, the terraced acclivities, covered with a luxuriant tropical vegetation, change on a closer approach its distant barren aspect into one of extreme beauty and fertility. The most striking peculiarity in the mountain scenery is the jagged outline of the ridge, the rudely shaped towers and sharp pyramids of rock, which appear elevated on the tops and sides of the high est peaks as well as on the lower elevations, and the deep precipitous gorges, which cut through the highest mountains almost to their very base. The shores of the island are mostly lofty cliffs, occasionally facing the water with a perpendicular front one or two thousand feet in height. The cliffs are interrupted by a few small bays, where a richly cultivated valley approaches the water be tween abrupt precipices, or surrounded by an am phitheatre of rugged hills.

These narrow bays are the sites of the villages of Madeira. As we sailed along from its western end, we oc casionally saw, in these quiet and peaceful situations, small white-walled villages, each with its little church at the outlet of the gorges. We were par ticularly struck with that of the Camera de Lobos, a few miles to the westward of Santa Cruz hill. This is the largest, and is the most interesting of any, from its having been the first point settled by Europeans. The high precipices were new to us Americans : so different from what we are accustomed to in the United States. The scene was still more striking, and our attention was more forcibly arrested, when passing under cliffs of some sixteen hundred feet above us. We were so near them that the sound of the surf was distinctly heard.

The whole effect of the view was much heightened by a glowing sunset in one of the finest climates in the world. On the night of the 13th of September we laid by, just after passing the north end of St. Michael's, in order to examine the position of the Tullock Reef by daylight. We passed within a mile and a half of its reported position, but saw nothing of it, although the sea was ruouing sufficiently high to have made a heavy break on it, if it did exist. On the 15th, as we were making sail, George Porter, one of our maintop-men, in loosing the tup gallant sail, was caught by the buntline, and dragged over the yard, where he was seen to hang, as it were quite lifeless, swinging to and fro by the neck. On the alarm being given, two men ran aloft to his assistance. It now became doubtful on deck whether they would not be all dragged over by the weight of his body, until several others gave as sistance and relieved them.

It caused a breathless anxiety to us all to see a fellow-being in the mo mentary expectation that he would be dashed to the deck. He was fortunately rescued and brought below yet living. Here he speedily came to his senses, and recollecting that the drum had rolled to grog just before his accident, he, sailor-like, asked for his portion of it. It was truly a providential escape. This young man died on our way home, in the China seas, of an inflammatory fever. On the 1 6th we made the island of Madeira, and having a strong westerly wind, I determined to pass to Funclial, on its southern 6ide. This may be done at this season, but vessels bound to that port usually prefer going round the eastern point of the island. When off the western point of Madeira we experienced a very long heavy swell, which gave me an opportunity of trying the velocity of the waves, by noting the time the same wave was passing between the vessels.

The result gave twenty-three miles per hour, but I was not altogether satisfied with it. It was difficult to measure the correct angle subtended by the Por poise's masts for the distance, on account of the motion of both vessels. The measurement of the height of the waves I found still more difficult, and the results varied too much to place confidence in them, principally owing to each succeeding swell or wave being less than the preceding one. The different observations gave from twenty-five to fourteen feet; the width of tho wave, from the same causes, was equally variable, and each successive result varied from that which preceded it. Off the eastern cape of the island, many isolated rocks were seen separated from the land, with bold, abrupt sides and broken outlines. The character of these rocks is remarkable; they stand quite de tached from the adjoining cliffs, and some of them rise to a great height in a slender form, with ex tremely rugged surfaces, and broken edges.

Through some the waters have wox*n arched ways of large dimensions, which afford a passage for the breaking Interviewswith the civil and military governors. Government-house at Madeira. MADEIRA 3 surf, and would seem to threaten ere long their destruction. exalted ideas of the standing of the present Portu guese school of portrait painting. His excellency the baron Lordello received us very courteously. Our audience, however, was ex tremely formal ; the whole furniture and appearance of the room served to make it so. We all found it difficult to school ourselves to ceremonies, having been ushered as we were through dilapi dated and impoverished courts and vestibules. His excellency the baron speaks English remarkably well, which I understood he had acquired while acting as interpreter to the British staff in Portugal, during the Peninsular war.

He had been no more than a week in charge of the go vernment, having just arrived from Portugal. After a few monosyllabic questions and answers we took our leave, and he did us the honour to see us through the anteroom to the hall of entrance, where we parted with many bows. Our next visit was to the military governor, Senor Rebello, who occupied a small apartment at the opposite end of the building. This was not large enough to accommodate Os all, and chairs were wanting for many. The manner and ease of the occupant made full amends. Ceremony and form were laid aside ; he seemed to enter warmly into our plans and pleasures, and evinced a great desire to do us service. Similar needle-form rocks are seen off the northern Deserta, an island lying some miles east of Madeira. One of them is often mistaken for a ship under sail, to which when first seen it has a con siderable resemblance.

It stands like a slender broken column, several hundred feet in height, on a base scarcely larger than its summit. Funchal has a very pleasing appearance from the sea, and its situation, in a kind of amphitheatre formed by the mountains, adds to its beauty. The contrast of the white buildings and villas with the green mountains, forms a picture which is much heightened by the bold quadrangular Loo Rock, with its embattled summit commanding the harbour in the foreground. The island throughout is rough and mountainous, but the steeps are clothed with rich aud luxuriant verdure. Terraces are visible on every side, and every spot that the ingenuity of man could make available has been apparently turned to advantage, and is diligently cultivated. These spots form an interesting scene, particularly when contrasted with the broken and wild background, with the white cottages clustered at the sea-shore, and gradually extending themselves upwards until the eye rests on the highest and most striking building, that of the convent of Nostra Senora de Monte.

The streets of the town are very narrow, with out sidewalks, and to our view like alleys, but their narrowness produces no inconvenience. They are well paved, and wheel-carriages are unknown. The only vehicle, if so it may be called, is a sledge, of some six feet in length, about twenty inches wide, and only six or eight inches high, on which are transported the pipes of wine. Two strips of hard wood are fastened together for run ners. Through the western half of the island runs a central ridge, about five thousand feet high, on which is an extensive plain, called Paul de Serra, which is mostly overgrown, and is used especially for breeding mules and horses. The eastern por tion of the island, though quite elevated, is less so than the western. The valleys usually contain a strip of land of extreme fertility, through which winds the bed of a streamlet, that becomes a mountain torrent in the rainy seasons, but is nearly or quite dry in sum mer.

This sledge is dragged by two very small oxen, and slips easily on the pavement, which is occasionally wet with a cloth. It is no doubt the best mode of transportation in Funchal, for their wine, on account of the great steepness of their streets. Smaller burthens are transported on men's shoulders, or in hampers and baskets on the backs of donkeys. I was surprised to learn that all misdemeanours are referred for trial to Portugal, and that persons having committed small crimes are kept for years without any disposition being made of them by those in authority. They are maintained at the ex pense of the complainant, consequently crime is scarcely noticed or complained of. On the one hand it makes the punishment very severe, and on the other, persons are inclined to take the law into their own hands against petty thefts.

It is impos sible to avoid many painful sights in passing the prisons. Caps on sticks are thrust through the iron gratings, aud requests are made for alms, first in beseeching tones, and afterwards, if nothing is given, one is pained with hearing cries of execra tion. The occupants are in keeping with the premises, and did not fail to excite both our com miseration and disgust. The rides in Madeira arc beautiful. The roads are well made, easily and safely travelled on a Madeira pony, with a ponyboy or burroquerro. One is at a loss to which to impute the most strength of mind and endurance, the pony or the boy. These boys keep constantly uear the rider, at The landing at Funchal is on a stony beach, and is accompanied with some little difficulty, partly on account of the surf, but more from the noise, con fusion, and uproar made by the native boatmen in their efforts to drag their boat up on the beach.

This operation they however understand, and are well accustomed to, and those who desire to land dry, will be wise to employ them. On the 17th, we paid our respects, with a large party of officers, to the civil governor the baron de Lordello, field-marshal in the army, and admi nistrator-general of the province of Madeira and Porto Santo ; and also to the military governor Jose Teixcera Rebello, colonel in the army, and commandant of the district. His excellency baron Lordello resides in the government house or palace, which is a large quadrangular building, occupied in part as barracks. His suit of apartments fronts the bay, and enjoys a beautiful view of it ; they also have the enjoyment of the iubat or sea-breeze. They are very large, and but meagerly furnished. Around the large anteroom are hung the portraits of all the civil, ecclesiastical, and military go vernors, which form an imposing array of hard outline, stiff figures and faces, with a variety of amusing costume.

Those of later years which have been hung up, are not calculated to give very B -' Wine of the island. Dress of the inhabitants. Tlie Curral. 4 MADEIRA. Population of Madeira. fine an island, and where the necessaries of life ought to abound. Wine is the staple commodity : the produce during the year 1837 was 14,150 pipes. The export the year previous to our visit amounted to 8435 pipes, of which about 3800 pipes went to the United States. The inhabitants of Madeira are much alive and justly jealous of the reputation of their wines, which are generally the engrossing topic of conver sation. Au amusing excitemeut existed during our visit. A London paper (The Times) had asserted, that foreign wine had frequently been introduced into Madeira, aud afterwards exported as the ge nuine article to the United States in particular; and what gave more force tothe story, it was stated as a fact, that 70 pipes had lately been entered, at the expense of 1000 dollars, and remanufactured.

Every body was up in arms. The commercial association of Funchal passed resolutions denouncing the publication iu strong terms, as designed by certain in terested persons to injure the reputation of the wine of Madeira. So strict are the laws to prevent frauds, that even genuine Madeira, after being once shipped, cannot be returned to the island. I heard, however, of an attempt, and but one, to smuggle in Teneriffe and Fayal wines, which was discovered. The casks were broken, the wine destroyed, the boats confiscated, and the smuggler condemned to be transported to the coast of Africa. The people are industrious, sober, and civil, and although ignorant, I should think happy. There is little, if any, mixed blood among them. They are of the old Arabian stock. Free negroes are seen. Dark hair, eyes, and complexion, are most common; but much diversity in form and feature, and in the colour of the hair, exists.

The character of the features of the iuhabitants is usually rather a broad face, high cheek bones, and pointed nose, full lips, good teeth, and retreating chin. The men are very muscular, rather above the middle height, strongly built, and capable of enduring great fatigue. We all agreed that the women were particularly ugly, which is to be imputed in part to the hard labour required of them. The two sexes do uot appear to belong to the same race. times holding on to the tail of the pony, then be stowing repeated blows with their long sticks, and ever and anon urging him on with their singular tones of voice, so that the rider is compelled to allow himself to be carried along, contented with passing safely over so novel and (to him) apparently so impassable a roadway. On proceeding out of Funchal, fruits, flowers, and vegetables seem crowding upon the sight ; in the lower portions, groves of orange and lemon trees are mingled with the vineyards, the trees are loaded with fruit ; then, as one mounts higher, bananas, figs, pomegranates, &c, are seen, and -again, still higher, the fruits of the tropics are interspersed with those of the temperate zone, viz., apples, currants, pears, and peaches, while the ground Ls covered with melons, tomatoes, egg plant, &c. Farther beyond, the highest point of cultivation is reached, where the potato alone flourishes.

Then the whole lower portion is spread before the eye. Vineyards, occupying every spot that is susceptible of improvement ; and one rides through paths hedged in with geraniums, roses, myrtles, and hydrangeas. These plants, which we had been accustomed to consider as the inhabitants of our parlours and green-houses, are here met with in gigantic forms, and as different from our small, sickly specimens as can well be imagined. Every one who visits Madeira should see the Curral. It is a very remarkable spot, and it is difficult, if not impossible, to give an idea of its beauty and grandeur. This place is approached by the usual ascent from Funchal, through the narrow roads, or paths hedged with roses, &c, the view gradually extending beneath, over the ter raced vineyards. Just before reaching it you mount a small ascent; you are then on the summit or edge of the Curral, and the whole scene suddenly bursts upon you.

The eye descends to the depth of two thousand feet, into the immense chasm below, and wanders over the ragged and broken outline of the many peaks that rise from its very bottom ; then upwards, following the gray precipitous rocks, till their summits are lost in the clouds, which are passing fitfully across it, occasionally permitting the sunbeams to glance to its very bottom. The whole looks more like en chantment than reality. The shape of the Curral and its perpendicular sides give the idea rather of a gorge than of a crater. The islands of Madeira and Porto Santo, under the new constitution, promulgated in 1836, were included in one district, called " Districto-adminis trativo do Funchal." It contains ten councils, in which are forty-five parishes. The population, according to the census taken in 1836, amounted to 115,447 souls.

The English population to 108 families, numbering 324 souls. The revenue of the island is stated to be about 210,000 dollars per annum. That portion which is derived from the customs, is about one-half, or 1 10,000 dollars. The remainder is from taxes and tithes. The men of the lower order are dressed in a kind of loose trousers (cueeas), descending as far as the knee, with a shirt or jacket of a gaudy colour. Both sexes wear a kind of cap (carapuca), of very small dimensions, tied under the chin. Its use is not readily conceived, as it is only a few inches in diameter at its base, and terminates in a conical top, like an inverted funnel. The women wear bodices, with short petticoats of a variety of colours, in stripes. They have usually shoes and stockings, but they generally go barefooted, with these articles tied in a small bun dle, to be put on when they wish to appear fine.

The children are poorly clad, have but one gar ment, and that dirty. The habitations of the lower order would be called huts in our country. They are composed of walls of stone, about five or six feet high, with a roof rising on all sides to a central pole; are thatched with straw or broom, and contain only one room. The only aperture for light and smoke is the door. There is but little necessity for chim neys, as fire is seldom required. It is said that in the northern part of the island, some of the pea- There are about five thousand proprietors of the soil, of whom no more than six hundred and fifty live on their rents; and there are about four hun dred who receive government salaries. Mendicants are numerous, and one is much tormented with them from the very moment of landing. It is surprising to fiud them so importunate in so Wine-carriers.

Fertility of the island. Pico Ruivo. MADEIRA, s Mauner os making wine. Bants make their habitation in caves or excava tions on the hill-side. square by two feet deep, three on each side of a huge lever beam, their legs bare up to the thighs. On our entrance they redoubled their exertions til! the perspiration fairly poured from them; the vat had been filled with grapes, and by their exertions we were enabled to see the whole process. After the grapes had been sufficiently stamped, and the men's legs well scraped, the pulp was made into the shape of a large bee-hive, a rope made of the young twigs of the vine being wound around it. The lever was then used, which has a large stone or rock attached to it by a screw. The juice flows off, and is received in tubs. The produce of the press is on an average about fifty gallons daily.

Each gallon requires about ten bushels of grapes. The taste is very much like sweet cider. The process is any thing but pleasing, and endeavours have been made by English residents to substitute machinery, but the prejudices, vexations, and diffi culties experienced have caused them to give up the attempt. The general average is from one to three pipes of wine per acre annually. The south side of Madeira, as is well known, although not the most fertile, produces the finest wines. Every poiut which can be cultivated suc cessfully is attended to, and earth is brought to increase the soil from other parts. The kinds of grapes are various, and the wines manufactured as numerous. The common Madeira is obtained from a mixture of Bual, Verdelho, and Negro Molle grapes; the Malmsey and Sercial from grapes of tlie same name.

There ia a great difference in the spots and peculiar exposure where the vine grows; and different kinds of wine are produced, according to the state of maturity to which the grape is allowed to arrive at before being gathered. After being expressed, it is put into casks, undergoes the process of fermentation, is clarified with gypsum or isinglass, and a small portion of brandy is added, two or three gallons to the pipe. The deportment of the lower classes is a mixture of politeness and servility. They invariably noticed us in passing by taking off the cap; and on receiving any thing, kissed their hands, or made some other respectful salutation. The language spoken in Madeira is Portu guese, but with a rapid utterance, or rather, clipping or abbreviating of their words and expres sions. In the town of Funchal there are many elegant establishments, and much luxury among the higher classes, but the poorer classes are lodged miserably.