Three years in Constantinople: or, Domestic manners of the Turks in 1844

Chapter I

Sultan's Harem— Precedence of Valida Sultana and Kadinns— Water Excursions — Household and Revenues of the former — Kadinns, how presented or purchased — Their Establishments and Equal Rights — Poly gamy rare in Private Life — Conjugal Rights determined by Kooran — Sultan exempted — Mode of communicating with Harems — Kadinns must renounce their Names — Sultan entitled to Seven — Names of his Issue by these Ladies —Origin and Description of reigning Monarch's Kadinns — Ceremonies whilst bathing — Night Toilet — What occurs on rising — Severe Etiquette of Harem — Law of Legitimacy — Seraglio Laws of Seclusion, Destruction, and Succession — Wholesale Murder of Bro thers by Sultan Mohammed III. — Numbers and Classification of Impe rial Slaves — Their Occupations, Diversions, and Punishments — Sultan's change of Residence — Astrologer-in-Chief — Imperial Kitchens — Esti mated Expenses of Court — Venality and Corruption of Household — Vain attempts at Reform — Influence of Sultan's Confidential Attend ants ....... Page 1

Chapter II

Market for Old Clothes — Unhealthiness of Constantinople— Porcelain Shops — Danube Steam Navigation — Results of differential duties granted to Russia — Decreased prosperity of English Commercial Houses — Mode of presenting Water to Masters or Guests — Drinking Glasses — Tent-makers — Wives allowed separate Tents and suites of Apartments CONTENTS. IV ■Camp Equipage of Sultan and Army — Inspector-General of Stores -Camps at Ramiztchiflik and Daoud Pasha— Military Guards in City — Detail of Regiment of Infantry — Barracks — Hospitals — Statistics of Sick — Door Curtains — Greek Servants — Horse Gear made of Hair — Muslins, Cambrics, and Turban-winders— Byt Bazary— Mode of pledging Goods and borrowing Money — Danger of buying cast-off Garments during times of Plague— Defects of Sanitary System —Filth of certain quarters — Public Sewers and Drains — Currents, Winds, and variations of Temperature — Changes that have taken place in Climate — Public Prayers at Ok Maidany — Disbelief in man's free action de clared punishable by Fethwas .... Page 31

Chapter III

Parmak (finger) Gate— Dealers in Antiquities — Divan-street — Atik (old) Ali Pasha Mosque — Inlaid Woods and Articles — Hafyz Pasha — Kooran Readers — Gun and Lock-smiths — Wax Chandlers — Signal for extinguishing Lights, and precautions against Fire at Imperial Palace — Cemetery at Sultan Bajazet 's Mosque — Great thoroughfare from the Porte — Equipages and Horses of Pashas and rich men — Arabas and Telekas of Ladies — Kabab shop of Hadjy Mustafa — Sherbets, Khoshab, and Apothecaries' Decoctions — Kababjee — Dream of Sultan Selim II. , and fatal consequences — Favourite Dishes — Pilafs — Dolmas — Dolma Baghtshy Palace — Cooks — Epicures — Game — Quail Shooting — Game Certificate — Daily mode of life — Dinners and Evenings of Families — Wine — Ardent Spirits — Champagne — Murad IV.— Excesses of Mah moud II. — Temperance of Abdoul Medjid — Pie-nics — Musical Instru ments — Dervish Flute — Persian and Turkish Songs — Butchers — Sheep — Farms — Anatolian and broad-tailed Sheep — Beef and Veal — Hos pitality of Mr. Consul-General Cartwright — Lambs — Butchers' Corpo ration — Sultan's Shepherds — Right of Free Pasture — Agricultural Board — Agriculture — Reforms required — Abuses — Roads — Bakers and Bread — Millers — Corn Factors — Poultry Market — Bow-makers — Archery ...... Page 67

Chapter IV

Braziers — Kettles of Janissaries — Formation, Augmentation, and Dis solution of that Corps — Their Kettles and Food — Rations of Modern Troops — Janissary Kettles — Discontent how shown — Their revolt in 1655 — Ewers and Basins for ablutions — Sultan's Water Purveyor — CONTENTS. V Metal Trays for Dinners— Balkis (Queen of Sheba) and Solomon- Legend relative to Plate Glass— Braziers for heating Rooms— Charcoal Trade— Tandoors— Coal Trade— Coal Basin of Heraclea— Mineral Riches — Copper Strata behind Buyukdery — Patron of Brasiers' guild — Locksmiths — Gunpowder— Itinerant Performers near Sultan Bajazet's Mosque — Carrier-Pigeons — Caliph Yezid's romantic Death— Spoon- Makers— Engravers' Bazar, and Corporation— Signet-Ring of Prophet — Seal Bearers— Sultan's Seals — Specimens of other Seals— Ceremony of confiding Great Seal to Vizirs— Etiquette as to form of paper, sealing and signing Public Documents— Stambol and Persian Seal Engravers- Ancient and Modern Talismans— Babylonian Cylinders— Cuneiform Cha racters — First Talisman ascribed to a Disciple of Mohammed—Lapi daries — Prices of Seals . . . Page 1 22

Chapter V

Ozoon Tcharsshy, (Long Market) — Waist Girths— Turkish Uniforms ■ — Ihrams for covering Arabas — Dress of European Ladies visiting Con stantinople, a cause of wonder to Turks and native Christians — Peniten tiary Ihram (mantles) — Coverlet Market — Divans — Sofas— Place of Honour — Building regulations — Inspector of Private Dwellings — Shah Nisham — Wooden skreens before and between houses — Interior of Turkish habitations — Furniture — Sultan's Private Apartments — Belvi deres — Mattresses and Bedding — Sold second-hand — Etiquette when Sultans or Pashas who espouse Sultanas, retire to rest — Shah Sultana and her husband — Caps worn by Turks at home and abroad — Fez Manufacture — Boatmen's Heads — Silk Tassels and Trimmings — Arme nian Kalpak — Firmans relating thereto — Rayas wear distinctive marks upon Fez — Ferijee — Articles composing Dress of both sexes — Distinc tion between Veils of Turks and Armenians — Marriage Ceremonies — Shawl-Menders and Shawls .... Page 164

Chapter VI

War Office — Ancient distinction between Eski and Yeni Serai — Women and Children of defunct Sultans; how disposed of — Impolicy of barbarous Seraglio Laws — Correspondents of Foreign Journals — Printing-office— Garden and Graveyard of Suleimanya— Official Resi dence of Sheikh Islam— Courts of Justice— Appeals— Opium-eater's Market— Stimulating Electuaries— Charlatans who prepare them — In gredients—Philtres sanctioned by Faculty and Council of State under CONTENTS. VI Louis XIV. — Barbers— Those of Eyoub — Leech-fisheries— Mode of Bleeding — Circumcisers — Djerrah Pacha — Circumcision an Imitative Practice — Origin of that custom, and of boring Women's Ears — Impe rial Circumcisions, and Letter of Invitation to a Feast — Ceremonies that take place in Wealthy Families — Jugglers and Fantocini — Turkish Children — Patron of Barbers — Inkstand and Lantern-makers— Valens' Aqueduct — Street of Columns — Woodcut Engravers — Shoe Market — Marcian's Column — Statue of Venus, "the Maiden Prover"— Column of Theodosius— Et Maidany — Mansion of Spanakjee Zadeh — Saddlers' Repository — Imperial Uniform at Mevloot, 1843 — Bits and Stirrups — Sultan's Levees called Rike'ab (Stirrup) — Divers articles sold by Sad dlers — The Queen of Sheba, a Slattern . . Page 219

Chapter VII

Harness and Ornaments of Beasts of Burden, Draught Oxen, and Pet Sheep — Thick-tailed Caramanian Sheep — At Bazary (Horse Market) — Shoeing-Smiths — Prophet's favourite Mare, Duldul — Ambling — Horse Dealers' Stables — Cost of Horse-keeping — Grazing during Spring — Sultan's Stud led to Grass — Precautions against Evil Eye — Banquets formerly given by Minister of Interior — Harvest Home — Bulgarian Pipers — Arab or well-bred Horses scarce and dear — Sultan's select Stud: colours and names — Retinue of Sultan and Pashas — Cavalry aud Artillery Horses — Daily Auction at At Bazary — Remarkable private Studs — Grooming and Feeding in Sultan's Stables — Veterinary art — Utility of Dogs: cruelty of strangers to these animals — They congre gate in front of Artillery Barracks — Habits and means of existence — Hydrophobia — Superstition and death of Grand Vizier — Porcelain Bath — Ablutions and accompanying Prayers — Description of a large Bath — Attendants, dresses, ablutions, maceration, toilet, refreshments, and prices — Private chambers — Depilatory paste — Female bathing, toilet, and diversions — Private and public Baths — Those established by the Byzantines — Pera, Galata, and Stambol Baths — Some reserved for loose Females — Ground plan of a first-class Bath — Gates of Seraglio and City in 1843 ..... Page 272

Chapter VIII

Bridge connecting opposite shores of Golden Horn — Effect of southerly gales on the waters of the Harbour — Porpoises, gulls, and pigeons — Open spaces at extremities of Bridge, and Sultan's Apart- CONTENTS. VII ment at Azab Kapoossy Mosque — Hamlas (Porters) : their Corpora tion, Customs, and Honesty — Timber-yards — Stone-masons — Fountains — Tomb-stones — Funeral Rites, as practised at Stamboul — Wailings and lamentations of Turkish and Greek women — Expense of Funerals and Charitable Donations — Toorba (Mausoleums) of Sultans and Grand Dignitaries — Public Cemeteries; that of the Jews — Rose-market at Eyoub — Tombs at that place — Classification of Tomb-stones — Ex-votos — Form of Grave-stones — Epitaphs — Turbans on Tombs and in Mau soleums — Names and classification of Turbans — Coloured shawls wound round them symbolic of parties — Turkish character — Fable of a Sheikh and two Dervishes, a deprecatory conclusion . Page DOMESTIC MANNERS Ol THE TUUKS TELEKA.

Chapter I. Imperial Harem And Household

The ladies holding the first place in the imperial harem are the Kadinns, who rank according to the date of their elevation. They are then designated Bash (chief), or Buyuk (great) Kadinn Effendy — second, third, VOL. III. B and so on. The mother of the first-born Prince takes precedence of all others, but does not assume the title of "Sultana," until her son comes to the throne. She is then styled Valida (mother) Sultan, holds the second rank in the empire, has her separate court and residence, enjoys all the honours and liberties of widowed Sove reignty, and possesses considerable political influence, with immense revenues partly paid by the civil list as an annuity, and partly resulting from real property, the fruit of gifts and accumulations. The income of the present Valida is estimated at £110,000.

The dowries of Sultanas (aunts, sisters, and daughters,) are generally derived from the produce of Archipelago islands: thus, one enjoys a grant of the tax on the mastich of Scio, another on the sponges of Naxos, a third on the olives and oranges of Lesbos, and a fourth on the wines of Tenedos. Besma Allem (ornament ofthe universe), mother to the reigning monarch, was a Georgian slave, purchased and educated by the late Sultan's sister Esma*. She was celebrated for her accomplishments and beauty; of which latter, as far as it is possible to judge through the folds of a thin veil, she retains a greater share than is usual * This princess, widow of the Grand Admiral Kutchuk (little) Hossein, still lives. She was celebrated in her day for grace and accomplishments, and for the beauty and gaiety of her harem, which latter quality was carried to such extremes as to bring down frequent admonition from her brother, Mahmoud II.

Age has tempered these frolicsome dispo sitions in the Sultana and her ladies. She occupies a noble yally (villa) at Kouru Tchesma, during summer, and a fine konak (mansion) in the city during winter. Her palace at Eyoub is abandoned. with Eastern ladies who have reached their 38th year. It has been affirmed by some writers that the Sultana mother is privileged to appear unveiled. This privilege, according to the best informed Turks, does not exist. No one can remember such an omission. In fact, to judge by her demeanour in public, the mother of the Sultan appears more desirous of giving examples of ad herence t'o general customs than of exhibiting herself as an exception. The only perceptible difference between her dress and that of other women is in the texture o* her yashmak (veil), which is composed of finer and more transparent muslin.

It is a pleasing and most original spectacle to look upon this great lady, accompanied by her female suite, when she indulges herself and them in a binish (excur sion by water). This pleasure I enjoyed repeatedly: once, among other occasions, when, with the galaxy of houris in her train, she landed at the imperial Kioshk of Therapia. The picturesque and varied landscape that extends from Unkiar Skelessy and the bay of Buyukdery to the Black Sea, when seen from this spot, is always admirable. Upon this occasion, its beauties were en hanced by the animated spectacle displayed upon the contiguous waters and at the landing-place, and by the more distant courtesy of the worthy commander of her Britannic Majesty's corvette Magician, anchored in mid channel. Upon the approach of the imperial kayiks, Captain Mitchel hoisted the Sultan's standard, dressed out his gallant craft in her holiday colours, manned yards, and b2 fired a salute*.

Then, when the roar of those cannon that had recently aided in restoring to the Valida's son the provinces tljat an ambitious vassal would have torn from his grasp had passed away, the Magician's crew complimented the fair Turks with one of those British hurrahs, that are more melodious when uttered as tokens of greeting than when thundered forth as signals of onslaught. On another occasion, I chanced to stand with Mr. de Martarano"f" upon the southern arch of the bridge that connects the two shores of the Golden Horn. The Valida was at that moment returning down the harbour from performing her devotions at Eyoub. A more con venient opportunity could not occur for examining the contents of the six kayiks containing the Sultana and her suite. In the first, a richly ornamented, fourteen-oared, im perial boat, was seated the Valida, upon embroidered cushions, placed on a purple velvet carpet, fringed with gold.

Opposite to her, their backs turned to the boatmen, were her Khet Khoda (intendant or first lady), and her Khasnadar (treasurer and second lady). Two young Lalas occupied the after-deck, which was covered with a rich Persian carpet. A third Lala sat in the bow, and the boat was steered by an imperial coxswain. As the kayik glided beneath our feet, we uncovered * The commanders of Queen's ships always pay this compliment to the Valida, which is the more gratifying to her, as Turkish vessels of war do not salute or notice the harem. T Neapolitan Charge d' Affaires in 1843. our heads. The Valida, who is well acquainted with European forms of respect, instantly raised her eyes and returned our intended mark of deference with that fixed and penetrating gaze, which is the customary token of imperial recognition, and is the only acknowledgment ever made by the Sultan in return for the salutations of natives or strangers*.

The remaining five boats, painted black outside, with yellow mouldings, were rowed by five pair of oars. In the first sat the Harem Aghassy (superintendent). Opposite to him was the Oda Lalassy (inspector of chambers), and Khasnadar Agha (privy purse), and behind were two youthful Lalas, one of whom held a crimson umbrella over the broad face and misshapen figure of his chief. The contents of the four other boats were alike. Seven ladies, a pleiades of youth and beauty, sat in each, upon crimson ihrams, fringed with gold-f-, and attended by two black Aghas, whose duty it was to protect the merry groups from wind or sun with large umbrellas, although some of the ladies saved them this trouble by exhibiting the unusual innovation of parasols j. With the exception of two negresses, all the Valida's attendants were white slaves, who, according to the * Some persons have fallen into an error respecting the mode of pay ing respect to the Sultan.

It is well known, however, that he expects all Franks to uncover their heads. His Highness always returns the compli ment in the manner described in the text ; more must not be expected. Turkish Pashas who may be thus saluted, bow slightly, and raise the hand as high as the mouth. f Ihrams will be described further on. $ Ladies abstain from the use of the parasol on shore, as it would require them to expose their hands. assertion of Turkish ladies, form an assemblage of beauty and accomplishment not to be surpassed by the far-famed and less scrupulous harem of Esma Sultana. When the Valida takes the air by land -the same etiquette is observed, with this difference, that all her Aghas are mounted. Thus her suite on these occasions comprises some thirty females and from ten to fifteen Aghas.

These are but a portion of her household, which consists of nearly one hundred and fifty persons. Her principal Kihaya (intendant) is the Director General of Customs (Gumruk Naziry), Tahir Bey, who, with the aid of several secretaries and sub-agents, manages her revenues. Her footmen, cooks, grooms, aivass, and other menials, are lodged outside the walls of her palace, which building is situated upon the crown of the hill of Yeni Mahal, above Tcheraghan. The Kadinns are now exclusively Circassians, although, in former times, the imperial harem contained women of all countries and creeds. They are without exception slaves, presented to the Sultan by his mother, aunts, sisters, and favourites, or purchased by his own commis sioners. These Kadinns enjoy equal rights and privileges. Their establishments are distinct, but in all respects similar.

They have separate suites of apartments, baths, and offices, and to each is allotted an equal number of Aghas and female slaves acting as ladies of honour, readers, dressers, and attendants. Their pin or slipper money amounts to about twenty-five thousand piastres (240/.) per month; all other expenses are defrayed by the Sultan's treasurer. Minute attention is paid to all points of etiquette, and the utmost impartiality is observed in the distribution of presents or other marks of favour, in order to obviate jealousies. For, although the Sultan is never approached by these ladies without the humblest demonstrations of deference, even, as it is admitted, to their entering the imperial couch at the foot, his Majesty is nevertheless subject to frequent explosions of ill-humour, during the intervals of which the little artifices of tears, poutings, tender reproaches, and hysterics are not spared.

Al though slaves, for they are never manumitted, unless they become de jure free, as Validas, their claims upon the Sultan's attentions are the same as those of married women, in the few private families where there are more than one legal wife. I say few — because it is an incon testable fact, that polygamy in the capital does not amount to five per cent. It is rarely met with save among the richest and most powerful functionaries ; and even then plurality of wives is an exception. To argue, therefore, that polygamy is one of the main causes of stationary population, is to argue upon false data and erroneous premises. The progressive strength of populations depends upon the multiplication of the middling and lower classes, and among them polygamy is most unusual. It suits neither their inclinations nor their means.

No, it is to the deplorable custom of counteracting the generous efforts of nature by swallowing deleterious drugs, calculated to destroy infant life in the germ — to the over-frequent use of debi litating baths — to unwholesome food — to the ravages of contagious maladies— and above all to the system of dragging so large a portion of the adult population to serve and perish in the ranks* — and not to the abuse, or even to the practice of polygamy, that the limited increase of Turkish families may chiefly be ascribed. Tbe Kooran, while it sanctions plurality of wives, provides for equal distribution of conjugal rights. In the event of neglect on the part of husbands, wives are en titled to complain to magistrates, and to demand divorce — an application always attended to, and supported by the lady's relatives.

The observance enforced on private individuals is respected by the Sultan: not because he is amenable to law, his kadinns being unmarried and slaves, but because he is as desirous as other men to preserve concord in his family, and to avert frowns and ill humour from the brows of his beautiful partners, of whom the present sovereign has only four, although entitled to possess seven. The whole establishment of the harem consists of females, of whom a portion are negresses, principally em ployed in menial offices and in conveying dinner trays, mangals, and other articles, to and from the wooden pivot boxes, which, like those seen in nunneries, are inserted * The whole Moslem population, from the age of sixteen to twenty five, is liable to conscription. The evils caused by depriving the country of so many thousand sources of fecundity are enhanced by the conse quent mortality.

The average number of those who return from mili tary service does not exceed 35 per cent., and these generally enfeebled and worn out, not from long service, but from nostalgia, rheumatism, and gastric affections. It must be remembered that all rayas are free from conscription, and consequently the burden of recruiting falls upon Moslems. in the walls that separate all harems from external courts or chambers. Male servants deposit whatever may be required from without in these boxes, and thus immediate communication is maintained, without either party seeing each other, or without doors being opened. When it is necessary that the latter should be opened, to admit personal passage, a wooden skreen, resting on vertical hinges, is swung across, so as to conceal objects behind. These skreens or gates are generally affixed at the entrance of all large houses, in front or behind the doors opening into the harem on the basement floor.

When slaves are raised to the rank of kadinn, they renounce their names, and are only recognized by those of head, second, third, &c. These ladies not being married, the designation commonly given to them, of " Sultan's wives," is erroneous. Nor are they addressed by the title of Sultana, that being reserved for the Imperial children. Kadinns cannot even sit upon divans or chairs in the Sultan's presence, although their daughters enjoy this privilege ; their place is upon cushions, spread upon the floor. There is no such person officially as the Khasseky (favourite), although former sultans permitted their first favourites to assume this appellation*. Preferences naturally exist; but it is difficult for the Sultan to betray them in a marked manner without exciting dangerous jealousies and harassing clamours.

The reigning monarch has the reputation of being much * Such, for instance, as Rabia Gulnush, first khasseky to Mohammed IV., foundress of the mosque at Galata; and another khasseky of Sulei man, foundress of Avret Bazary Mosque. B.3 beloved by all his family. He has hitherto only raised five ladies to the rank of kadinn. One of these, Zinet or Zihem Felik (ornament of heaven), died in 1842. They have borne him eight children, of whom five were alive in the spring of 1844, viz: — Sultan Mohammed Murad (deserving praise and having a will) . Sultan Abdoul Hamid (servant of the praiseworthy). Rafya Sultana (the exalted.) Alya Sultana, (the elevated). Jamila Sultana, (the beautiful)* The Buyuk Kadinn was a present from Esma Sul tana, and is described by those ladies who knew her pre viously to her removal to the palace as an interesting and accomplished woman, but not extraordinary for per sonal charms.

The second, who has borne two children, the last a son, was purchased by Riza Pasha, and given to Esma Sultana, who educated and then presented her to her nephew. She has the reputation of great beauty and accomplishments, and of writing tolerable poetry. The third was a gift of the Valida, and is cited as remarkable for her beauty, and not less so for her haughty and wayward disposition. The fourth was educated by Riza Pasha's first wife; and, according to the assertions of Stambol ladies, bears away the palm of beauty from • The Sultan has one brother, Abdoul Haziz, who will succeed if he survives the present Padishah, and two remaining sisters, Atya, married to Achmet Fethi Pacha, and Adlya, unmarried. Atya is a patroness of literature, and not without talent as a poetess. all her colleagues, but is not highly accomplished.

The deceased Zihem Felik is said to have been of most in tractable temper, and most jealous and fretful disposition. This eventually led to the pulmonary complaint of which she died. Kadinns are compelled to renounce all connexion with their families, and are cut off from all external commu nication by letter or otherwise. This regulation is rigidly observed, not from motives of jealousy, as that would be superfluous, but in order to prevent the demands and intrigues of needy relatives, who might put forward claims, as near akin to different members ofthe Imperial family — a useful precaution, as Circassia may be said to be one-fourth peopled with their connexions, the greater part of whom are serfs or persons of low condition*. No women, unconnected with the Imperial harem, or with those of married Sultanas, are permitted to visit or communicate with kadinns, or unmarried sultanas.

Am bassadresses have solicited the favour, but it has never been granted. The Valida and married Sultanas may, how ever, exercise their discretion in this respect, and now and then receive the wives of envoys and distinguished strangers. Even Aghas rarely enter the kadinns' apartments, unless commanded so to do, and never see their fair mistresses unveiled. Seven great female officers preside over the harem. These are the Khet Khoda (grand mistress and inten- * Children sent for sale generally belong to the class of serfs, as shewn by Mr. Longworth, in his graphic and interesting work on Circassia. dant), Khaznadar Oosta (treasurer), Tchamasheer Oosta (mistress of robes and linen), Tchashnigeer Oosta (superintendent of table-service), Kiatib Oosta (principal secretary), Hammamjee Oosta (inspectress of baths), and Kilargee Oosta (store-keeper).

They have several de puties and subordinates, who attend to lighting, cleansing, washing, cooking, coffee-making, pipes, &c. The seven superior ladies are elderly white slaves, recom mendable from probity and long services. Nothing can be done without the knowledge and sanction of the Khet Khoda, who communicates with the Grand Marshal and external officers. Each of these seven has her dis tinct establishment. They may be frequently seen shop ping in the city, attended by Imperial servants. Before the Sultan enters his harem at night, and it is not customary for him to do so during the day, he com municates to the agha in waiting the name of the kadinn whom he proposes to summon to his couch. The agha conveys the message to the Khet Khoda, who announces it to the first lady in waiting on the kadinn, all of whom have the honour of receiving the Sultan's visits in regular succession.

Should indisposition prevent this, the next in turn is selected. At the appointed time, which is generally after yatsy namazy (night or fifth prayer)*, the Sultan proceeds to the door dividing the harem from the mabain or salamlyk. Here all his attendants save the black agha on duty make their obeisance, and the door is opened by the portress inside. * This prayer is invariably announced an hour and a half after Aksham (sun-set) namazy. Care is taken that all issues looking upon the inner galleries, through which the monarch passes, shall be closed. No person is permitted to appear, and perfect silence is maintained. The Sultan has a suite of apartments within the harem, to which the designated lady is generally con ducted, and from which she withdraws at dawn. But sometimes he honours the kadinn in her own apartment.

In the latter case, a signal is given by the agha, who precedes the monarch with lights; and, the door being opened, the Sultan is received by the lady and her slaves with the most abject demonstrations of respect. The same silence and mystery are observed in the morning. Should his Highness bathe within the harem, which never occurs unless indisposition should prevent his quitting the interior, he is served by women allotted to this duty. They consist of gedeklik (chosen), who are alone entitled to this honour. This process is conducted with rigid attention to etiquette and propriety, under the superintendence of two or more elderly oosta. The Imperial bather is enveloped in crimson silk cloths embroidered in gold, called pestamel, and the attendants are attired in light but ample dresses.

This ceremony is contrary to our ideas of delicacy. Nevertheless, it is more decorous than might be sup posed. The old oostas perform the required services while the Sultan is within the heated room ; and it is not until he returns to the vestiary that the younger gedeklik approach, in order to offer refreshments, and to divert him with songs or stories — and this with most severe and rigid respect for decorum. When it is the Sultan's pleasure to take refreshments in the apartments of any lady, he is waited upon by that lady's slaves. Sweetmeats, cakes, fruits, sherbets, coffee, ices, and other delicacies, prepared by their own zealous hands, are presented. Each kadinn has a small kitchen, and great rivalry is exhibited in seeking to gratify the monarch with dainties, for which he is known to entertain a predilection.

The evening is employed in playing with the children, if the kadinn be a mother*, in listening to the songs or recitations of the most accomplished slaves, in examining jewellery and dresses — in short, the time is passed much after the manner of all other wealthy Turks, when within the privacy of their harems. On these occasions, the Sultan withdraws about the usual hour of repose ; for it is a rare occur rence with him to pass the night in any other than his own apartment. The process of the night toilet is simple and expe ditious. When within his own private chambers, the Sultan generally wears a light caftan and trowsers during summer, and a kurk lined with furs in winter, with warm shalwars and entary. When the hour of repose arrives, these upper garments are laid aside, and the under vestments retained.