Voyage round the World, embracing the principal events of the narrative of the United States' Exploring Expedition ... With ... engravings

Front matter

VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, EMBRACING THE PRINCIPAL EVENTS OF THE NARRATIVE OF THE UNITED STATES EXPLORING EXPEDITION IN ONE VOLUME. ILLUSTRATED WITH ONE HUNDRED AND SEVENTY-EIGHT ENGRAVINGS ON WOOD. BY CHARLES WILKES, U. S. N. COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION, MEMBER OF THE AMERICAN PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETY, ETC, ETC. PHILADELPHIA: GEO. W. GORTON. 1849. Entered, according to she Act of Congress, in the year IS 19, by CHARLES WILKES, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the District of Columbia EDWARD 0. JENEINS, PRINTER AND STEREOTYPER, No. 114 Nassau Street, New- York.

Introduction

. This edition of the Narrative of the Exploring Expedition will be found to contain all the most interesting results as well as the exciting scenes of the cruise. I have endeav ored to retain all that is interesting to the general reader in Geography and Natural History; also, foil descriptions of the places we visited, and of the habits, manners, and customs of the natives. CHARLES WILKE&- Washington City, July, INSTRUCTIONS. Navy Department, August 11th, 1838. Sir, — The Congress of the United States, having in view the important interests of our commerce embarked in the whale-fisheries, and other adventures in the great Southern Ocean, by an act of the ISth of May, 183b", authorized an Expedition to be fitted out for the purpose of exploring and sun-eying that sea, as well to determine the existence of all doubtful islands and shoals, as to discover and accurately fix the position of those which lie in or near the traek of our vessels in that quarter, and may have escaped the observation of scientific navigators.

Liberal appropriations have been made for the attainment of these objects, and the President, reposing great confidence in your courage, capacity, and zeal, has appointed you to the command of the Expedition, requiring you to proceed to the performance of the duties of that station with the vessels placed under your orders, consisting of the sloops of war Vincennes and Peacock, the ship Relief, the brig- Porpoise, and tenders Sea-Gull and Flying-Fish. As soon as these vessels are in every respect ready, you will accordingly take your departure from Norfolk, and shape your course to Rio Janeiro, crossing the line between longitude 18° and 22° W., and keeping within those meridians to about latitude 10° S., with a view to determine the ex istence of certain vigias or shoals laid down in the charts as doubtful, and whose position, should they be found to exist, it is deemed useful to the in terests of our commerce to ascertain.

At Rio Janeiro you will replenish your supplies, taking special care to furnish yourself with a sufficiency of all those articles which are considered the best preventives and remedies for the scurvy. You will determine the longitude of that place, as well as of Cape Frio ; after which, you will either detach a vessel, or proceed with your whole squadron, to make a particular examination of Rio Negro, which falls into the South Atlantic about latitude 41° S., with a view to ascertain its resources and facilities for trade. • Having completed this survey, you will proceed to a safe port or ports in Terra del Fuego, where the members of the scientific corps may have favor able opportunities of prosecuting their researches. Leaving the larger vessels securely moored, and the officers and crews occupied in their respective duties, you will proceed with the brig Porpoise, and the tenders, to explore the southern Antarctic, to the southward of Powell's Group, and between it and Sandwich Land, following the track of Weddell as closely as practicable, and endeavoring to reach a high southern latitude ; taking care, however, not to be obliged to pass the winter there, and to rejoin the other vessels between the middle of February and beginning of March.

The attention of the officers left at Terra del Fuego, will, in the mean time, be VI INSTRUCTIONS. specially directed to making such accurate and particular examinations and surveys" of the bays, ports, inlets, and sounds, in that region, as may verify or extend those of Captain King, and be serviceable in future to vessels en gaged in the whale-fisheries, in their outward and homeward-bound passages. You will then, on rejoining the vessels at Terra del Fuego, with all your squadron, stretch towards the southward and westward as far as the Ne Plus Ultra of Cook, or longitude 105° W., and return northward to Valparaiso, where a store-ship will meet you in the month of March, 1839. Proceed ing once more from that port, you will direct your course to the Navigator's Group, keeping to the southward of the place of departure, in order to verify, if possible, the existence of certain islands and shoals, laid down in the charts as doubtful, and if they exist, to determine their precise position, as well as that of all others which may be discovered in this unfrequented track.

When you arrive in those latitudes where discoveries may be reasonably anticipated, you will so dispose your vessels as that they shall sweep the broadest expanse of the ocean that may be practicable, without danger of parting company, lying-to at night in order to avoid the chance of passing any small island or shoal without detection. It is presumed you will reach the Navigator's Group some time in June, 1839. You will survey this group and its harbors, with all due care and attention. If time will permit, it will be well to visit the Society Islands, and examine Eimeo, which, it is stated, possesses a convenient harbor. From the Navigator's Group, you will proceed to the Feejee Islands, which you will examine with particular attention, with a view to the selec tion of a safe harbor, easy of access, and in every respect adapted to the reception of vessels of the United States engaged in the whale-fishery, and the general commerce of these seas ; it being the intention of the government to keep one of the squadron of the Pacific cruising near these islands in future.

After selecting the island and harbor best adapted to the purposes in view, you will use your endeavors to make such arrangements as will insure a supply of fruits, vegetables, and fresh provisions, to vessels visiting it hereafter, teaching the natives the modes of cultivation, and encouraging them to raise hogs in greater abundance. These objects will, it is presumed, occupy you until the latter end of Oc tober ; and when attained as far as may be possible, you will proceed to the port of Sydney, where adequate supplies may be obtained. From thence you will make a second attempt to penetrate within the Antarctic reo-ion, south of Van Diemen s Land, and as far west as longitude 45° E., or to Enderby's Land, making your rendezvous on your return at Kerguelen's Land, or the Isle of Desolation, as it is now usually denominated, and where you will probably arrive by the latter end of March, 1840.

From the Isle of Desolation you will proceed to the Sandwich Islands, by such route as you may judge best, from the information you may acquire from such sources as fall in your way. A store-ship from the United States will meet you there, with a supply of provisions, in the month of April, 1840. Thence you will direct your course to the Northwest Coast of America, making such surveys and examinations, first of the territory of the United States on the sea-board, and of the Columbia River, and afterwards along the coast of California, with special reference to the Bay of San Francisco" as you can accomplish by the month of October following your arrival. INSTRUCTIONS. VII You will then proceed to the coast of Japan, taking in your route as many doubtful islands as possible ; and you have permission to pass through the Straits of Sangar into the Sea of Japan, where you may spend as much time as is compatible with your arrival at the proper season in the sea of Sooloo or Mindoro.

Of this sea you will make a particular examination, with a view to ascertain whether there is any safe route through it, which will shorten the pas sage of our vessels to and from China. It is enjoined on you to pay very particular attention to this object, in order that you may be enabled to furnish sailing instructions to navigators. It may be also advisable to ascertain the disposition of the inhabitants of the islands of this archipelago for commerce, their productions and resources. Having completed this survey, you will proceed to the Straits of Sunda, pass through the Straits of Billiton, which you will examine, and thence to the port of Singapore, where it is probable you may arrive about the begin ning of April, 1841, and where you will meet a store-ship from the United States. Having completed this service, it is presumed the objects of your enter prise will be accomplished, and you will, accordingly, after receiving your supplies at Singapore, return to the United States by the Cape of Good Hope, taking such a course as may be most likely to further the great purposes of the Expedition.

During your stay in the southern latitudes, should the dysentery or any other fatal epidemic make its appearance among your crews, you have leave to proceed to the northward, until the disease shall either disappear, or be so mitigated as to admit of the resumption of your surveys. The Department does not feel the necessity of giving any special direc tions for preserving the health of those under your command, confiding in your own experience, the care and precautions of the able surgeons with whom you are provided, and in the conviction you must feel, that on the health of your crews must depend the success of the enterprise. In the prosecution of these long and devious voyages, you will necessarily be placed in situations which cannot be anticipated, and in which, sometimes your own judgment and discretion, at others, necessity, must be your guide.

Among savage nations, unacquainted with, or possessing but vague ideas of the rights of property, the most common cause of collision with civilized visitors, is the offense and the punishment of theft. You will therefore adopt every possible precaution against this practice, and in the recovery of the stolen property, as well as in punishing the offender, use all due moderation and forbearance. You will permit no trade to be carried on by the squadron with the coun tries you may visit, either civilized or savage, except for necessaries or curiosities, and that under express regulations established by yourself, in which the rights of the natives must be scrupulously respected and carefully guarded. You will neither interfere, nor permit any wanton interference with the customs, habits, manners, or prejudices of the natives of such countries or islands as you may visit ; nor take part in their disputes, except as a medi ator ; nor commit any act of hostility, unless in self-defense, or to protect or secure the property of those under your command, or whom circumstan ces may have placed within reach of your protection.

You will carefully inculcate on all the officers and men under your com- I VIII INSTRUCTIONS mand, that courtesy and kindness towards the natives, which is understood and felt by all classes of mankind ; to display neither arrogance nor con tempt, and to appeal to their good-will rather than their fears, until it shall be come apparent that they can only be restrained from violence by fear or force. You will, on all occasions, avoid risking the officers and men unnecessarily on shore at the mercy of the natives. Treachery is one of the invariable characteristics of savages and barbarians ; and very many of the fatal dis asters which have befallen preceding navigators, have arisen from too great a reliance on savage professions of friendship, or overweening confidence in themselves. Much of the character of our future intercourse with the natives of the lands you may visit, will depend on the impressions made on their minds by their first intercourse with your vessels.

It is the nature of the savage long to remember benefits, and never to forget injuries ; and you will use your best endeavors wherever you may go, to leave behind a favorable impression of your country and countrymen. The Expedition is not for conquest, but discovery. Its objects are all peace ful ; they are to extend the empire of commerce and science ; to diminish the hazards of the ocean, and point out to future navigators a course by which they may avoid dangers and find safety. An Expedition so constituted, and for such purposes, armed for defense, not conquest, and engaged in pursuits in which all enlightened nations are equally interested, has a right to expect the good-will and good offices of the whole civilized world. Should our country, therefore, be unhappily in volved in war during your absence, you will refrain from all acts of hostility whatever, as it is confidently believed none will be committed against you.

So far from this being the case, it is not to be doubted that even hostile na tions will respect your purposes, and afford every facility to their accom plishment. Finally, you will recollect, that though you may frequently be carried be yond the sphere of social life, and the restraints of law, yet that the obliga tions of justice and humanity are always and everywhere equally imperative in our intercourse with men, and most especially savages ; that we seek them, not they us ; and that if we expect to derive advantages from the intercourse, we should endeavor to confer benefits in return. Although the primary object of the Expedition is the promotion of the great interests of commerce and navigation, yet you will take all occasions, not incompatible with the great purposes of your undertaking, to extend the bounds of science, and promote the acquisition of knowledge.

For the more successsful attainment of these, a corps of scientific gentlemen, con sisting of the following persons, will accompany the Expedition, and are placed under your direction. Mr. Hale, Philologist. Mr. Pickering, ) N t ,; t Mr. Peale, [ naturalists. Mr. Couthouy, Conchologist. Mr. Dana, Mineralogist. Mr. Rich, Botanist. Mr. Drayton, ) t, , , Mr. Agate, } Draughtsmen. Mr. Brackenridge, Horticulturist. INSTRUCTIONS IX The hydrography and geography of the various seas and countries you may visit in the route pointed out to you in the preceding instructions, will occupy your special attention ; and all the researches connected with them, as well as with astronomy, terrestrial magnetism, and meteorology, are con fided exclusively to the officers of the navy, on whose zeal and talents the Department confidently relies for such results as will enable future navigators to pass over the track traversed by your vessels, without fear and without danger.

No special directions are thought necessary in regard to the mode of con ducting the scientific researches and experiments which you are enjoined to prosecute, nor is it intended to limit the members of the corps each to his own particular service. All are expected to co-operate harmoniously in those kindred pursuits, whose equal dignity and usefulness should insure equal ardor and industry in extending their bounds and verifying their principles. As guides to yourself and to the scientific corps, the Department would, however, direct your particular attention to the learned and comprehensive reports of a committee of the American Philosophical Society of Philadel phia, the report of a committee of the East India Marine Society, of Salem, Massachusetts ; and to a communication from the Naval Lyceum of New York, which accompany, and are to be regarded as forming a part of these instructions, so far as they may accord with the primary objects of the Ex pedition, and its present organization.

You will, therefore, allow the gentlemen of the scientific corps the free perusal of these valuable documents, and permit them to copy such portions as they may think proper. The Russian Vice-Admiral Krusenstern has transmitted to the Department memorandums relating to the objects of this Expedition, together with the most improved charts of his atlas of the Pacific Ocean, with explanations, in three volumes. These are also confided to your care ; and it is not doubted that the friendly contributions of this distinguished navigator will essentially contribute to the success of an enterprise in which he takes so deep an interest. You will prohibit all those under your command from furnishing any per sons not belonging to the Expedition with copies of any journal, charts, plan, memorandum, specimen, drawing, painting, or information of any kind, which has reference to the objects or proceedings of the Expedition.

It being considered highly important that no journal of these voyages, either partial or complete, should be published without the authority and under the supervision of the government of the United States, at whose expense this Expedition is undertaken, you will, before you reach the waters of the United States, require from every person under your command the surrender of all journals, memorandums, remarks, writings, drawings, sketches, and paintings, as well as all specimens of every kind, collected or prepared during your absence from the United Statees. After causing correct inventories of these to be made and signed by two commissioned officers, and by the parties by whom they were collected or prepared, you will cause them to be carefully sealed by the said officers and reserved for such disposition as the Department may direct.

You will adopt the most effectual measures to prepare and preserve all specimens of natural history that may be collected, and should any oppor tunities occur for sending home by a vessel of war of the United States, copies of information, or duplicates of specimens, or any other material you X INSTRUCTIONS. may deem it important to preserve from the reach of future accident, you will avail yourself of the occasion, forwarding as frequently as may be done with safety, details of your voyage and its most material events, at the same time strictly prohibiting all communications except to this Department, from any person attached to the Expedition, referring to discoveries, or any circumstances connected with the progress of your enterprise. It is believed that the officers under your command require no special advice or direction from this Department.

Bearing in mind, as they no doubt will, that the undertaking which they are about assisting to accom plish, is one that necessarily attracts the attention of the civilized world, and that the honor and interests of their country are equally involved in its results, it is not for a moment doubted that in this, as on all other occasions, they will so conduct themselves, as to add to the reputation our navy has so justly acquired at home and abroad. With the best wishes for the success of the Expedition, and the safe re turn of yourself and your companions, I am, very respectfully, (Signed) J. K. Paulding. To Lieutenant Charles Wilkes, Commanding the Exploring and Surveying Expedition, &c. P. S. The accompanying printed list of English words, drawn up by Mr. Gallatin, and received from the War Department since these instructions were prepared, are intended for Indian vocabularies, which can be filled up as circumstances permit, taking care that the same words be used in all of them.

(Signed) J. K. Paulding. LIST OF OFFICERS ATTACHED TO THE UNITED STATES EXPLORING EXPEDITION. UNITED STATES SHIP VINCENNES. Chas. Wilkes, Esq., Thomas T. Craven, Overton Carr, Robert E. Johnson, Commanding Exploring Expedition. Lieutenant. Left at Valparaiso, June 6, '39, to take command of the Sea-Gill. Lieutenant. Took command of brig Oregon, at San Francisco, Oct., 1841. Lieutenant. Commanded Sea-Gull on her southern cruise, detached at Honolulu, November, 1841. Lieutenant. Joined brig Porpoise at San Francisco, October, 1841. Lieutenant. Joined Peacock at Orauge Bay, and Porpoise at Callao. Acting Master. Joined Porpoise at Callao. Acting Surgeon. Detached at Sydney, March, 1840. Purser. James Alden, William L. Maury, James H. North, Edward Gilchrist R. R. Waldron, J. L. Elliott, J. L. Fox, J. S. Whittle, George M. Totten, William Reynolds, Chaplain.

Detached at San Francisco, October, 1841. Assistant Surgeon. Joined Porpoise at San Francisco, October, 1841. Assistant Surgeon. Joined Peacock at Honolulu ; Vincennes again at San Francisco. Ps'd Midshipman. Joined Porpoise at Callao, and Vincennes at Honolulu. Ps'd Midshipman. Joined Peacock, 1839, and Flying-Fish at Honolulu, 1840, and Porpoise at Singapore. Ps'd Midshipman. Joined Flying-Fish on a cruise south, 1839-40, and Vincennes again. May, 1840. Ps'd Midshipman. Joined Porpoise at Tahiti, schooner Flying-Fish at San Francis co, and Porpoise at Singapore. Midshipman. Joined Peacock at Tahiti, and Vincennes again at San Francisco. Midshipman. Boatswain. Gunner. Joined Relief at Callao. William May, Joseph P. Sandford, George W. Clark, Samuel B. Elliott, William Smith, Washington Bright, Wm. M. Laighton, Samuel N. Hawkins, Benj.

Vanderford, R. P. Robinson, John G. Williamson, Carpenter. Joined Relief at Callao. Sail maker. Pilot. Died, April, 1842 Purser's Steward. Gunner. SCIENTIFIC CORPS. Charles Pickering, Joseph Drayton, W. D.Brackenridge, John G. Brown. John W. W Dyes, Joseph P. Cotthouy, Naturalist. Artist. Assistant Botanist. Mathematical Instrument Maker. Assistant Taxidermist. Naturalist. Left at Sydney, and detached at Honolulu, November, 1840. UNITED STATES SHIP PEACOCK. wrecked july 18th, 1841. Wm. L. Hudson, Esq. Samuel P. Lee, W. M. Walker, , Commanding. Joined Vincennes at San Francisco. Lieutenant. Detached at Orange Bay, February, 1839. Lieutenant. Commanded Flying Fish first cruise, joined Porpoise at Columbia River, and Vincennes at San Francisco. George F. Emmons, O. H. Perry, Lieutenant. Joined Vincennes at San Francisco.

Lieutenant. Joined Vincennes at San Francisco. Acting Master. Joined Vincennes at Feejee. Surgeon. Joined Relief at Callao. Purser. Joined Oregon at Columbia River. Assistant Surgeon. Joined Porpoise at Sydney, and Oregon at San Francisco. Ps'd Midshipman. Joined Flying-Fish at Feejee, returned home from Oahu sick. Ps'd Midshipman. Detached at Callao, 1839. Ps'd Midshipman. Joined Vincennes at Feejee. Ps'd Midshipman. Joined Flying-Fish on cruise south, Peacock at Feejee, and Oregon at Columbia River. Midshipman. Joined Vincennes at Callao, killed July 24th, 1840, at Malolo. Midshipman. Joined Vincennes at Columbia River. Thomas A. Budd, J. F. Sickles, William Spieden, Silas Holmes, James B. Lewis, Henry G^nsevoort, Henry Eld, Geo. W. Harrison, Wilkes Henry, Wm. H. Hudson, LIST OF OFFICERS.

Fred. D. Stuart, Captain's Clerk. Joined Porpoise at Columbia River ; Vincennes at San Francisco. Thomas G. Bell, Boatswain. Joined Porpoise at Columbia River, and Oregon at San t rancisco. John D. Anderson, Gunner. Detached at Callao. Jonas Dibble, Carpenter. Joined Oregon at Columbia River. J. D. Freeman, Sailmaker. Joined Porpoise at Columbia River. William H. Insley, Purser's Steward. Detached at Callao. SCIENTIFIC CORPS. James D. Dana, Mineralogist. Joined Vincennes ar San Francisco. T. R. Peale, Naturalist. Joined Vincennes at San Francisco. Horatio Hale, Philologist. Joined Vincennes at New Zealand, Peacock at Honolulu, and was left at Oregon to cross the country. F. L. Davenport, Interpreter. Detached at Rio. UNITED STATES SHIP RELIEF. SENT HOME FROM CALLAO, BY WAY OF SANDWICH ISLANDS AND SYDNEY.

A. K. Long, Lieutenant-Commandant. j.Y. iv. 1,'im., i . i/Uiiin -^/Uiiiiuauumii . R. F. Pinkney, Lieutenant. Joined Peacock at Orange Bay, Flying-Fi3h at Callao, and detached at Honolulu, 1840. A. L. Case, Lieutenant. Joined Vincennes at Callao. Jos. A. Underwood, Lieutenant. Joined Vincennes at Callao, aud killed at Malolo. July 24, 1840. George T. Sinclair, Acting Master. Joined Porpoise at Callao; Commander Flying- Fish at Feejee; joined Porpoise again at Honolulu, November, 1840. J. C. Palmer, Acting Surgeon. Joined Peacock at Callao, and Oregon at Columbia River, and Vincennes at San Francisco. Alonzo B. Davis, Ps'd Midshipman. Joined Peacock at Callao, and Vincennes at Columbia River, and Oregon at San Francisco. Thos. W. Cu.mmings, Ps'd Midshipman. Left sick at Rio. James L. Blaib, Midshipman.

Joined Peacock at Rio, schooner Flying-Fish at Columbia River, and Vincennes at Honolulu. James R. Howison, Captain's Clerk. Joined Vincennes at Callao. J. Black, Boatswain. Thomas Lewis, Gunner. Joined Peacock at Callao. and Oregon at Columbia Biver. SCIENTIFIC CORPS. William Rich, Botanist. Joined Peacock at Callao, and Vincennes at San Francisco. Alfred T. Agate, Artis.. Joined Peacock at Callao, and Vincennes at San Francisco. UNITED STATES BRIG PORPOISE. Cadwalader Ringgold, Lieutenant- Commandant. M. G. L. Claiborne, Lieutenant. Joined Relief at Orange Bay. H. J. Hartstein, Lieutenant. Joined Relief at Callao. John B. Dale, Lieutenant. Joined Relief at Callao. A. S. Baldwin, Acting Master. Joined Peacock at Callao, and Oregon at Columbia River. C. F. B. Guillou, Assistant Surgeon. Joined Peacock at Sydney, Flying-Fish at Columbia River, and detached at Honolulu, November, 1841.

Simon F. Blunt, Ps'd Midshipman. Joined Vincennes at Orange Bay, and left sick at Honolulu in April, 1841. G. W. Colvocoressis, Ps'd Midshipman. Joined Peacock at Rio, Vincennes at Feejee, and Oregon at San Francisco. Thomas W. Waldron, Captain's Clerk. O. Nelson, Boatswain. Detached at Rio. Amos Chick, Carpenter. Joined Vincennes at Cadao. John Joines, Sailmaker. Detached at Callao ; joined Relief. William H. Morse, Purser's Steward. John Frost, Boatswain. TENDER SEA-GULL. lost about may 1st, 1839. James W. E. Reid, Passed Midshipman, Commandant. Frederick A. Bacon, Ps'd Midshipman. Isaac Percival, Pilot. Joined Relief at Callao. TENDER FLYING-FISH. SOLD AT SINGAPORE. Samuel R. Knox, Commandant. Commanding schooner most of the cruise : joined Vincennes at Singapore. Geo. W. Hammersly, Midshipman.

Joined Peacock at Callao, and Vincennes at Feejee Richard Ellice, Ac. Master's Mate. Detached ; joined Relief at Rio. H. A. Clem son, Midshipman. Joined the Vincennes at Rio ; detached at Callao. Egbert Thompson, Midshipman, Joined Vincennes at Rio, Peacock at Feejee, and Vincennes again at Columbia River. A. M. Cesney, Master's Mate. Detached at Honolulu. E. H. De Haven, Acting Master. Joined Vincennes at Callao, Peacock at Feejee, and Oregon at Columbia River. James S. Power, Purser's Steward. Joined Peacock at Callao, and Oregon at Colombia River. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Departure from the United States — Voyage to Madeira — Arrival at Funchal — Appear ance of Madeira from the Sea — Landing at Funchal — Visit to the Civil and Military Governors — Streets, and Mode of Transportation — Criminals and Prisons — Rides in Madeira — Curral — Population of Madeira — -Wine — Government — Character of the Inhabitants — Dress — Dwellings — Mode of Travelling — Employments of the People — Wine-Making — Lower Classes — Natural History — Quinta of Mi-. Bean — Departure from Madeira. ........ Pages 1-11

Chapter II

Squadron sails from Madeira — Arrival at St. Jago — Appearance of the Island — Town of Porto Praya — Its Population — Language — Visit to the Governor — Public Fountain — Market — Drill of Recruits — Droughts — Climate — Slaves — Dress — Departure from Porto Praya — Arrival at Rio Janeiro. ...... 12-16

Chapter III

Rio Janeiro — Its Improvements — Its Present Condition — Churches — The Misericordia — Funerals — Emperor's Birthday — Aqueducts— Public Garden — Museum — Bay and Harbor — Vegetation — Botanic Garden — Slave Population — Coffee-Carriers — Researches into the Nations of Africa — Treatment of Slaves — Streets of the City — Society — White-Jacket Ball — Defects in the Equipment of the Squadron — Trip to the Organ Mountains — Ascent of the Corcovado. .... 17-34

Chapter IV

Character of the Brazilians — Constitution of the Empire — Ruling Party — Elective Regency — Administration of Justice — Elective Franchise — Army — Navy — Schools — Slavery — Feeling towards Foreigners — Population-JSTational Debt, Revenue, and Expenditures — Commerce — Departure from Rio — Passage to Rio Negro — Arrival there — Guachos — Description of the Country — River and Tides— Climate — Vegetation — Convict Settlement — Communication with Buenos Ayres — Departure from Rio Negro — Staten Land — Straits of Le Maire — Appearance of Terra del Fuego — Its Hai-bor — Meeting with the Relief— Natives — Intercourse with them — Arrival at Orange Harbor. ....'.... 35-47

Chapter V

Orange Harbor— Plan of the Squadron's Operations-z— Natives — Their Appearance — Their Huts — Their Talent for Mimicry — Their Food — Departure of Porpoise — Whale Ship — Height of Waves — King George's Island — O'Brien's and Aspland's Islands — Palmer's Land — Adventure Islets — Sea-Gull ordered to return — Return of the Porpoise — Elephant Island — Good Success Bay — Boat detained — Attempt to relieve — Accident — Further Attempt to relieve the Party — Porpoise compelled to put to Sea — Return to Good Success Bay — Party join — Their Transactions — Leave Good Success Bay — Nassau Bay — Natives — Orange Harbor — Gea-Gull — Deception Island — Temperature — Visit to Crater — Force of Wind — Sea-Gull sent in search of Launch — Loss of that Boat — Arrival of Flying-Fish. ..... 48-61

Chapter VI

Departure of Peacock and Flying-Fish — Gale— Separation — Defective Outfits of Peacock — Accident to William Stewart — His Death — First Iceberg — Gale — Situation of Peacock — Birds — Aurora Australis — Snow-Storm — Flying-Fish rejoins — Lieutenant CONTENTS. XIV Walker's Report— Situation of Vessels— Captain Hudson in the Peacock resolves to return— Ship on Fire— Flying-Fish dispatched for Orange Harbor— Arrival of Peacock at Valparaiso— Find the Relief— Difficulties encountered— Gale— Tower Rocks- Noire Island— Dangerous Position— Loss of Anchors— The Relief proceeds to Valpa raiso—Arrival of Flying-Fish at Orange Harbor— Preparations for Departure—Cli mate—Animals—Birds—Vincennes and Porpoise take their Departure— Sea-Gull and Flying-Fish to await the Relief— Vincennes and Porpoise part company—Vin cennes' Arrival at Valparaiso— The Peacock there— Arrival of Porpoise and Flying.

Fish— Visit to Authorities of Valparaiso— Landing of Instruments— Custom-house Officers— Valparaiso — Description of it — Its order and government — Trait of Chilians —Police — Their Signal— Shops —Amusements— Chingano — Dancers — Sanaacueca— Higher Classes— Dress — Taste for Music — Fondness for Flowers — General Prieto — Honors paid him — Ball — Description of it. . • • ■ 62-73