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Travels through the States of North America, and the Provinces of Upper and Lower Canada, during the years 1795, 1796, and 1797

Isaac Weld · 1807 · Scanned text

104,825 words · about 7 h 20 min to read

Period artwork: Interior of the Bodleian Library, 1845
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Licence: PDM · British Library Digitised Books dataset db14 (doi 10.21250/db14) marks the OCR texts CC Public Domain Mark 1.0 (c. 1510-c. 1900 publications); text+metadata JSONL release doi 10.23636/r7w6-zy15 is CC0 1.0. Public Domain Mark is a status label, not a new copyright licence. · Digitised by the British Library (with Microsoft). Text: British Library Digitised Books, CC Public Domain Mark 1.0.

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About this book

Author
Isaac Weld
Language
English
Published
1807
Length
104,825 words · about 7 h 20 min
Sections
50 reader sections
Text
Scanned text, read from page scans by OCR; may contain errors
Rights
Public Domain Mark 1.0

 

Contents (50)
  1. Preface about 4 min
  2. Letter I under 1 min
  3. Letter II under 1 min
  4. Letter III under 1 min
  5. Letter IV about 1 min
  6. Letter V about 1 min
  7. Letter VII under 1 min
  8. Letter VIII under 1 min
  9. Letter IX under 1 min
  10. Letter X about 1 min
  11. Letter XII under 1 min
  12. Letter XIII under 1 min
  13. Letter XIV under 1 min
  14. Letter XV about 1 min
  15. Letter XVI under 1 min
  16. Letter XVII about 1 min
  17. Letter XIX about 1 min
  18. Letter XX under 1 min
  19. Letter XXI about 1 min
  20. Letter XXII under 1 min
  21. Letter XXIII under 1 min
  22. Letter XXIV about 1 min
  23. Letter XXV under 1 min
  24. Letter XXVI under 1 min
  25. Letter XXVII about 1 min
  26. Letter I about 19 min
  27. Letter II about 11 min
  28. Letter III about 17 min
  29. Letter IV about 41 min
  30. Letter V about 6 min
  31. Letter VI about 7 min
  32. Letter VII about 6 min
  33. Letter VIII about 10 min
  34. Letter IX about 11 min
  35. Letter X about 26 min
  36. Letter XII about 11 min
  37. Letter XIII about 10 min
  38. Letter XIV about 32 min
  39. Letter XVI about 11 min
  40. Letter XVII about 19 min
  41. Letter XVIII about 17 min
  42. Letter XIX about 18 min
  43. Letter XX about 14 min
  44. Letter XXI about 22 min
  45. Letter XXII about 22 min
  46. Letter XXIII about 11 min
  47. Letter XXIV about 20 min
  48. Letter XXV about 16 min
  49. Letter XXVI about 20 min
  50. Letter XXVII about 29 min

Continue:

Preface

. AT a period when War was spreading desola tion over the fairest parts of Europe, when anar chy seemed to be extending its frightful pro gress from nation to nation, and when the storm* that were gathering over his native country* in particular, rendered it impossible to say how 60on any one of its inhabitants might be forced to seek for refuge in a foreign land ; the Au thor of the following pages was induced to cross the Atlantic, for the purpose of examining with his own eyes into the truth of the va rious accounts which had been given of the flourishing and happy condition of the United States of America, and of ascertaining whether, in case of future emergency, any part of those territories might be looked forward to as an eligible and agreeable place of abode. Arrived in America, he travelled pretty generally through the states of Pennsylvania, Delaware, Maryland, Virginia, New Jersey, and New York ; he af terwards passed into the Canadas, desirous of obtaining equal information as to the state of those provinces, and of determining from his own immediate observations, how far the pre sent condition of the inhabitants of the British * Ireland,

PREFACE.

. dominions in America might be inferior or otherwise, to that of the people of the States, who had now indeed thrown oft' the yoke, but were formerly common members of the same extensive empire. When abroad he had not the most distant intention of publishing his travels ; but find ing on his return home, that much of the matter contained in the following letters was quite new to his friends, and being induced to think that it might prove equally new, and not wholly unacceptable to the Public, he came to the resolution of committing them to print : accordingly the present volume * is now offered to the world, in an humble hope, that if not enter taining to all readers, it will at least be so to some, as well as useful to future travellers. If it shall appear to any one, that he has spoken with too much asperity of American men and American manners, the author bess that such language may not be ascribed to hasty prejudice, and a blind partiality for every thing that is European.

He crossed the Atlantic strongly prepossessed in favour of the people, and the country, which he was about to visit ; and if he returned with sentiments of a different tendency, they resulted solely from a cool and dispassionate observation of what chance pre sented to his view when abroad. * The fitst edition was printed in one quarto volume.

PREFACE.

. V An enthusiastic admirer of the beauties of Nature, the scenery of the countries through which he passed did not fail to attract a great part of his attention ; and interspersed through the book will be found views of what he thought would be most interesting to his readers : they are what he himself sketched upon the spot, that of Mount Vernon, the seat of General Wash ington, indeed, excepted, for which he is in debted to an ingenious, friend that he met in America, and the view of Bethlehem. He has many more views in his possession ; but he thought it better to furnish his publisher with a few only, in hopes that the engraving from them would be well executed, rather than with a great many, which, had they been given, must either have been in a stvle unworthy of the Public eye, or else have swelled the price of the volume beyond the reach of many that may now read it.

Of the resemblance which these views bear to tlieir respective archetypes, those alone can be judges, who have been spectators of the original scenes. With regard to the Ca taract of Niagara, however, it must be observ ed, that in views on so small a scale, no one must expect to find a lively representation of its wonderful and terrific vastness, even were they executed by artists of far superior merit; the inserting of the three in the present work is done merely iu the hope that they may help, to- VI

PREFACE.

. gether with the ground plan of the precipice, if it may be so called, to give a general idea of the position and appearance of that stupen dous Cataract. Those who are desirous of be coming more intimately acquainted with it,will soon be gratified at least so he has been given to understand by the artist in whose hands they at present are, with a set of views from the masterly pencil of Captain Fisher, of the Royal British Artillery, which are allowed by allthose who had visited the Falls of Niagara,[to convey a more perfect idea of that wonderful natural curiosity, than any paintings or engravings that are extant. Finally, before the Reader proceeds to the perusal of the ensuing pages, the Author will just beg leave to apprize him, that they are the production of a very youthful pen, unac customed to write a great deal, far less to write for the press.

It is now for the first time that one of its productions is ventured to be laid before the public eye. As a first attempt, there fore, it is humbly hoped that the present work may meet with a generous indulgence, and not be too severely criticised on account of its numerous imperfections. Dublin, £pth December, i;r)S. CONTENTS VOL. I

Letter I

Arrival on the Coast of America. — Trees the first Object visible. — Description of the Bay and River of Delaware a — Passengers bound for Philadelphia not suffered to land till examined by the Health Officers — Arrival at Philadelphia. — Poor Appearance of the City from the Water. — Plan of the City. — Wharfs. — Public and private Buildings.— Some Account of the Hospital, and of the Gaol - page 1

Letter II

Population of Philadelphia.-— Some Account of the Inhabitants, their Character and Manners. — Private Amusements. — Americans lose their Teeth prematurely. — Theatriccd Amusements only per mit ted of late. — Quakers. — President's Levee and Drawing Room. — Places of public Worship. — Carriages, zvhat sort of used in Philadelphia. — Taverns, how conducted in America. — Difficulty of procuring scroants. — Character of the lower Classes of People in plmerica - - - CONTENTS.

Letter III

Journey to Baltimore. — Description of the Country about Philadelphia. — Floating Bridges over Schuylkill, how constructed. — Mills in Brandy-wine Creek. — Improvement in the Machinery of Flour Mills in America. — Town of Wilmington. — Log Houses. — Bad Roads — Fine Prospects. — How relished by Americans.-^-Taverns. — Susquehannah River. — Town of Baltimore. — Plan of the Town. — Harbour. — Public and private Buildings. — Inhabitants. — Country between Baltimore and Washington.- — Execrable Boads - page 31

Letter IV

Foundation of the City of Washington. — Not readily agreed to by different Stales. — Choice of the Ground left to General Washington. — Circumstances to be considered in chusing the Ground. — The Spot fixed upon, central lo all theSiatcs. — Also remarkably advantageously situated for trade. — Nature of the BackCountry Trade. — Summary Dew of the principal Trading Towns in the United States. — Their prosperity shewn to depend on the Back Country Trade. — Description of the Patowmac River. — Its Connection with other Rivers pointed out. — Prodigious Extent of the Water Communication from Washington City in all Directions. — Country likely to Trade im- CONTENTS. IX mediately with Washington. — Situation of Washington. — Plan of the Cily. — Public Buildings. — Some begun, others projected. — Capitol. — President' 's Ho use. — Hotel. — Stone and other building-Materials found in the Neighbourhood. — Private Houses and Inha bitants at present in the City. — Different Opi nions respecting the future Greatness of the City. — Impediments thrown in the way of its Improvement. — What has given Rise to this - Page 49

Letter V

Some Account of Alexandria. — Mount 1 lemon, the Seat of General Washington. — Difficulty of finding the Way thither through the Woods — Description of the Mount, and of the I '/'exes from it. — Description of the House and Grounds. — Slaves at Mount Vernon. — Thoughts thereon. — A Person at Mount Vernon to attend to Strangers. — Return to Washington 90 L E T TER VI. Arrival at Philadelphia. — Some Observations on the Climate of the Middle States. — Public ( 'arriages prevented from flying between Baltimore and Philadelphia by the Badness of the Roads. — Left Baltimort during Frost. — Met with American Travellers on the Road. — Their Behaviour preparatory to selling iff X CONTENts. from ail Inn.— Arrival on the Banks of the: Susquehannah. — Passage of that River when frozen over. — Dangerous Situation of the Passengers.— American Travellers at the Tavern on the opposite Side of the River. — Their noisy Disputations - - page 96

Letter VII

Philadelphia gayer in tlie Winter than at any other Season. — Celebration in that City of General Washington's Birth Day. — Some Account of General Washington's Person and of his Character.— Americans dissatisfied with his Conduct as President. — A Spirit of Dissatisfaction common amongst them 104-

Letter VIII

Singuletr Mildness of the Winter of 1795-6. — Set out for Lancaster. — Turnpike Road between that Place and Philadelphia. — Summary View of the State of Pennsylvania. — Description of the Farms between Lancaster and Philadelphia. — The Farmers live in a penurious Style. — Greatly inferior to English Farmers. — Bad Taverns on this Road. — Waggons and Waggoners. — Customs of the latter. — Description of Leincaster. — stately made the Scat of the State Government. — Manufactures carried on there. — Rifle Guns. — Great Dexterity with which the Americans use them.— Anecdote of two Virginian Sol diers belonging to a Rifle Regiment C0NTENT3. XI

Letter IX

Number of Germans in the Neighbourhood of York and Lancaster. — How brought over. — IVliite-Slavc Trade. — Cruelty frequently practised in the carrying it on. — Character of the German Settlers contrasted with that of the Americans. — Passage of the Susquehannah between York and Lancaster. — Great Beauty of the Prospects along the River. — Description of York. — Courts of Justice there. — Of the Pcnnsylvanian System of Judicature.

Letter X

Of tlie Country near York. — -Of the Soil of the Country on each Side of the Blue Mountains — Frederic-town. — Change in the Inhabitants and in the Country as you proceed towards the Sea. — Number of Slaves. — Tobacco chiefly cultivated. — Inquisilivcness of the People at the Taverns. — Observations thereon. — Description of the Great Falls of the Patowmac River. — George Town. — Of the Country between that Place and Hoe's Ferry. — Poisonous Vines. — Port Tobacco. Wretched Appearance of the Country bordering upon the Ferry. — Slaves neglected. — Peissage of the Patowmac very dangerous. — Fresh Water Oystei's. — Landed on a deserted Part of the Virginian Shore. — Greet Hospi tality of the Virginians. - - CONTENTS.

LETTER XL

Of the Northern Neck of Virginia. — First settled by the English. — Houses built by them remaining. — Disparity of Condition amongst the Inhabitants. — Estates worked by Negroes. — Condition of the Slaves. — Worse in the Carolinas. — Lands worn out by Cultivation of Tobacco. — Mode of cultivating and curing Tobacco. — Houses in Virginia. — Tliosc of Wood preferred. — Lower Classes of People in Virginia. — Their unhealthy Appearance, p. 145

Letter XII

Town of Tappahannock.— -Rappahannock River. — Sharks found in it. — Country bordering upon Urbanna. — Fires common in the Woods. — Manner of stopping their dreadful Progress. — Mode of getting Turpentine from Trees. — Gloucester. — York Town. — Remains of the Fortifications erected here during the American war. — Houses shattered by Balls still remaining. — Cave in the Bank of the River. — Williamsburgh. — State House in Ruins. — Statue of Lord Bottetourt. — College of William and Mary. — Condition of the Students.

Letter XIII

Hampton. — Ferry to Norfolk. — Danger in crossing the numerous Ferries in Virginia Norfolk. — Lenos of Virginia injurious to the Trading interest. — Streets narrow and dirty CONTENTS. XIII in Norfolk.— Yellow Fever there.—Observa tions on this disorder.— Violent Party Spirit amongst the Inhabitants. — Few Churches in Virginia. — Several in Ruins. — Private Grave Yards. - page IG9

Letter XIV

Description of Dismal Swamp. — Wild Men found in it. — Bears, Wolves, &;c. — Country between Swamp and Richmond.— Mode of making Tar and Pitch. — Poor Soil. — Wretched Taverns. — Corn Bread. — Difficulty of getting Food for Horses. — Petersburgh. — Horse Races there. — Description of Virginian Horses. — Stile of Riding in America. — Description of Richmond, Capital of Virginia. — Singular Bridge across James River. — State House. — Falls of James River. — Gambling common in Richmond. — Lower Classes of People very quarrelsome. — Their Mode of Fighting. — Gouging. 17S

Letter XV

Description of Virginia between Richmond and the Mountains, — Fragrance of Flowers and Shrubs in the Woods. — Melody of the Birds. — Of the Birds of Virginia. — Mocking Bird — Blue Bird — Red Bird, §c. — Singular Noises of the Frogs. — Columbia. — Magazine there. — Fire Flies in the Woods. — Green Springs. — Wretchedness of the Accommodation there. — Difficulty of finding the Way CONTENTS. through the Woods. — Serpents — Rattle Snake — Copper Snake — Black Snake. — South-west, or Green Mountains. — Soil of them. — Moun tain Torrents do great Damage.-— Salubrity of the Climate. — Great Beauty of the Pea santry. — Many Gentlemen of Property living here. — Monticcllo, the Seat of Mr. Jefferson. — Vineyards. — Observations on the Culture of the Grape, and the Manufacture of Wine. - - - page 193

Letter XVI

Of the Country between the South-west and Blue Mountains. — Copper and lyon Mines. — Lynchburgh. — New London. — Armory here. — Description of the Roael over the Blue Mountains. — Peaks of Otter, highest of the Mountains. — Sxipposed Height — Much overrated. — German Settlers numerous beyond the Blue Mountains. — Singular Contrast between the Country and the Inhabitants on each Side of the Mountains. — Of the Weevil. — Of the Hessian Fly. — Bottetourt County.— Its Soil. • — Salubrity of the Climate. — Medicinal Springs here — Much frequented. - 209

Letter XVII

Description of the celebrated Rockbridge, and of an immense Ceivern. — Description of the Shenetndoedi Valley. — Inhabitants mostly Germans.— Soil and Climate.— Observations on CONTENTS. XV American Landscapes. — Mode of cutting down Trees.- — High Road to Kentucky, behind Blue Mountains. — Much frequented. — Uncouth, in quisitive People. — Lexington. — Staunton. — Military Titles very common in America. — Causes thereof. — Winchester. page 220

LETTER XVIIL

Description of the Passage of Patowmac and Shenandoah Rivers through a Break in the Blue Mountains.— Some Observations on Mr. Jefferson's Account of the Scene. — Summary Account of Maryland. — Arrival at Philadelphia. — Remarks on the Climate of the United States. — State of the City of Philadelphia during the Heat of Summer. — Diffistdty of preserving Butter, Milk, Meat, Fish, %c. — General Use of Ice. — Of the Winds. — State of Weather in America depends greatly upon them. - 239

Letter XIX

Travelling in America without a Companion not pleasant. — Meet txvo English Gentlemen. — Set out together for Canada. — Description of the Country between Philadelphia and New York. — Bristol. — Trenton. — Princeton. — College there. — Some Account of it. — Brunswick. — Posaik Water-fall— Copper Mine. Manners of the Inhabitants. — Leave it abruptly on Account of the Fevers. — Passage CONTENTS. XVI -up North River from New York to Albany. — Great Beauty of the North River. — West Point. — 'Highlands. — Gusts of Wind com mon in passing them .—Albany . — Descrip tion of the City and Inhabitants. — Celebra tion of the 4th of July. — Anniversary of American Independence.

Letter XX

Departure from Albany. — Difficulty of hiring a Carriage.— An ival at Cohoz. — Description of the curious Feill there of the Mohawk River. — Still-wetter. — Saratoga. — Few of the Works remaining there. — Singular Mineral Springs near Saratoga. — Fort Edward. — Miss M'Crea cruelly murdered there by Indians. — Fort Anu, wretched Road thither. — Some Observations on the American Woods. — Horses jaded. — Difficulty of getting forward. — Arrive at Skenesborough. — Dreadfully infested by Musquitoes. — Particular Description of that Insect. — Great Danger ensues sometimes from their Bite. — Best Remedy. ■

Letter XXI

Embark on Lake Champlain. — Difficulty of procuring Provisions at Farms borderin°- upon it. — Ticonderoga. — Crown Point. — Singular Discovery thereof. — New-York. — Description of the City. — Character and CONTENTS. XVII Great Beauty of the Scenery. — General De scription of Lake Champlain and the aelja cent Country. — Captain Thomas and his Indieins arrive at Crown Point. — Character of Thomas. — Reach St. John. — Description of that Place. — Great Difference observable in the Face of the Country , Inheibilants, Sgc. in Canada and in the States. — Chambly Castle. — Calashes. — Bons Dieux. — Town of La Prairie. — Great Rapidity of the River Saint Lawrence. — Cross to Montreal. — Astonishment on seeing letrge Ships eit Mont reed. — Greets Depth of the River, page 2S8

Letter XXII

Description of the Town of Montreal. — Of the public Buildings.— Churches. — Funeral Ceremonies. — Convents. — Barracks. — Fortifications. — Inhabitants mostly French. — Their Character and Manners. — Charming Prospects in the Neighbourhood of the Town. — Amusements during Summer. — Parties of Pleasure up the Mountain. — Of the Fur Trade. — The Manner in -which it is carried on. — Great Enterprise of the North West Company of Merchants. — Sketch of Mr. M'Kensic's Expeditions over Land to the Pacific Ocean. — 'Differences between the North West and Huelson's Bay Compttny. page 309

Letter XXIII

Voyage to Quebec down the St. Lawrencer-A CONTENTS. Bateau preferable to a Keel Boat — Town of Sorelle. — Ship-building there. — Description of Lake St. Pierre. — Batiscon. — Charming Scenery along the Banks of St. Lawrence. — In what respect it differs from the Scenery along any other River in America— Canadian Houses. — Sketch of the Character and Man ners of the lower Classes of Canadians. — Their Superstition. — Anecdote. — St. Augustin Calvaire. — Arrive at Quebec. 331

Letter XXIV

Situation of the City of Quebec- — Divided into Upper . nd Lower Town. — Description of eac . — Aeat Strength of the Upper Town.1*— Some Observations on the Capture of Quebec by the English Army under General Wolfe. — Observations on Montgomery's and Arnold's Attack during the American War. — Census of Inhabitants of Quebec .^-?Tlie Chateeiu, the Resielence of the Governor. — Monastery of the Recollets.— College of the Jesuits. — One Jesnt remaining of great Age. — His great Wealth. — His Character. — Nunneries. — Engineer's Drawing Room. — State House. — Armoury. — Barracks. — Market-place. — Dogs used in Carts. — Grandeur of the Prospects from Parts of the Upper Toxvn. — Charming Scenery of the Environs.— Description of Montmorenci Water fall.— Of La Chaudiere Water Fall. CONTENTS. XIX

Letter XXV

Of the Constitution, Government, Laws, and Religion of the. Provinces of Upper and Lower Canada — Estimate of the Expences of the Civil List, of the Militeiry Establishment, and the Presents to the Indians. — Salaries ofcer~ tain Officers of the Crown. — Imports and Exports. — Taxes. 361

Letter XXVI

Of the Soil and Productions of Lower Canada. — Observations on the Manufacture of Sugar from the Maple-tree. — Of the Climate of Lower Canada. — Amusements of People of all Descriptions during Winter. — Cariolcs. — Manner of guarding against the Cold. — Great Hardiness of the Horses. — State of the River St. Lawrence on the Dissolution of Winter. — Rapid Progress of Vegetation during Spring. — Agreeableness of the Summer and Autumn Seasons. 379

Letter XXVII

Inhabitants of Lower Canada. — Of the Tenures by which Lands are held. — Not favourable to the improvement of the Country. — Some Observations thereon. — Adveintages of settling in Canada and the United States compared. — Why Emigrations to the latter Country are more genered, — Description of a Journey to Stoneham Township near Quebec. — Description of the River St. Charles. — Of Lake St. Charles. — Of Stoneheim Township. LIST OF PLATES. VOL. I. Map os the Northern States of America Page 1 Plan stf the City of Washington - 81 Mount Vernon., the Seat of General Washington t - - 92 American Stage Waggon - 27 View of the Natural Rock Bridge in Virginia - - - 221 View on the Hudson River - 268 ViewoffheCohoz Fall - 275 Map of Upper and Lower Canada - 305 Plan of the City of Quebec - 342 View of Cape Diamond, from Wolfe's Cove, near Quebec - - 346 Canadian Calash or Marche-Donc 306 VOL. II.

An Eye Sketch of the Falls of Niagara 118 View of the Horse Shoe Fall of Niagara 118 Lesser Falls of Niagara § 118 General View of the Falls of Niagara [121 View of Bethlehem, a Moravian Settlement - - TRAVELS THROUGH THE STATES OF NORTH AMERICA.

Letter I

Arrival on the Coast of America. — Trees the first Object visible. — Description of the Bay anel River of Delaware. — Passengers bound for Philetdelphia not suffered to land till examined by the Health Officers — Arrival at Philaelelphia. — Poor Appearance of the City from the Water. — Plan of the City. — Wharfs. — Public anel private Buildings. — Some Account of the Hospital, and of the Gaol. MY DEAR SIR, Philadelphia, November, 17Q5, OUR passage across the Atlantic was dis agreeable in the extreme. The weather for the most part was bad, and calms and heavy adverse gales so frequently retarded our progress to the westward, that it was not until the fifty-ninth day from that on which we left Ireland, that we discovered the American coast. I shall not attempt to de scribe the joy which the sight of land, a sight vol. I. B : that at once relieved the eye from the uninteresting and wearisome view of sky and water, and that afforded to each individual a speedy prospect of delivery from the narrow confines of a small trading vessel, diffused amongst the passengers.

You, who have yourself made a long voyage, can best imagine what it must have been. The first objects which meet the eye on approaching the American coast, south of New York, are the tops of trees, with which the shore is thickly covered to the very edge of the water. These, at a distance, have the appearance of small islands ; but as you draw nearer they are seen to unite ; and the tall forest rising gradually out of the ocean, at last presents itself in all its majesty to your view. The land which we made was situated very near to the bay of Delaware, and before noon we passed between the capes Henlopen and May, which guard the entrance of the bay. The capes are only eighteen miles apart, but within them the bay expands to the breadth of thirty miles. It afterwards becomes gradually narrower, until it is lost in the river of the same name, at Bombay Hook, seven leagues distant from the Atlantic.

The river Delaware, at this place, is about six miles wide ; at Reedy Island, twenty miles higher up, it is three miles wide ; and at Philadelphia, SHORES OF THE DELAWARE. 3 one hundred and twenty miles from the sea, one mile wide. The shores of the bay and of the river De laware, for a very considerable distance up wards, are low ; and they are covered, like the coast, with one vast forest, excepting merely in a few places, where extensive marshes intervene. Nothing, however, could be more pleasing than the views with which we were entertained as we sailed up to Philadel phia. The trees had not yet quite lost their foliage, and the rich red and yellow tints which autumn had suffused over the leaves of the oaks and poplars appeared beautifully blended with the sombre green of the lofty pines ; whilst the river, winding slowly and smoothly along under the banks, reflected in its glassy surface the varied colours of the objects on shore, as well as the images of multitudes of vessels of various sizes, which, as far as the eye could reach, were seen gliding silently along with the tide.

As you approach to wards Philadelphia the banks of the river be come more elevated ; and on the left hand side, where they are much cleared, they are interspersed with numberless neat farm-houses, with villages and towns; and are in some parts cultivated down to the very edge of the water. The New Jersey shore, on the right bS .' hand side, remains thickly wooded, even as far as the city. Vessels very commonly ascend to Philadel phia, when the wind is favourable, in twenty four hours ; but unfortunately, as our ship en tered the river, the wind died away, and she had to depend solely upon the tide, which flows at the rate of about three miles only in the hour. Finding that the passage up to the city was likely therefore to become tedious, I would fain have gone on shore far below it ; but this the captain would not permit me to do.

By the laws of Pennsylvania, enacted in consequence of the dreadful pestilence which raged in the capital in the year 1793, the master of any vessel bound for that port is made subject to a very heavy fine, if he suffers any person from on board her, whether mariner or passenger, to go on shore in any part of the state, before his vessel is examined by the health officer: and any person that goes on shore, contrary to the will of the master of the vessel, is liable to be imprisoned for a considerable length of time. In case the existence of this law should not be known on board a vessel bound for a port in Pennsylvania, it is the business of the pilot to furnish the master and the passengers on board with copies of it, with which he always comes provided. The PHILADELPHIA. health officer, who is a regular bred physician, resides at Mifflin Fort, four miles below the city, where there is a small garrison kept.

A boat is always sent on shore for him from the ship. After having been tossed about on the ocean for nine weeks nearly, nothing could be more tantalizing than to be kept thus close to the shore without being permitted to land. Philadelphia, as you approach by the river, is not seen farther off than three miles, a point of land covered with trees concealing it from the view. On weathering this point it suddenly opens upon you, and at that distance it looks extremely well ; but on a nearer ap proach, the city makes a poor appearance, as nothing is visible from the water but confused heaps of wooden storehouses, crowded upon each other, the chief of which are built upon platforms of artificial ground, and wharfs which project a considerable way into the river. The wharfs are of a rectangular form, and built of wood ; they jut out in every direction, and are well adapted for the accommodation of shipping, the largest merchant vessels being able to lie close alongside them.

Behind these wharfs, and parallel to the river, runs Water street. This is the first street which you usually enter after landing, and it does not serve to give a stranger a very favourable opinion either of the neatness or commodiousness of : the public ways of Philadelphia. It is no more than thirty feet wide; and immediately behind the houses, which stand on the side farthest from the water, a high bank, supposed to be the old bank of the river, rises, which renders the air very confined. Added to this, such stenches at times prevail in it, owing in part to the quantity of filth and dirt that is suffered to remain on the pavement, and in part to what is deposited in waste houses, of which there are several in the street, that it is really dreadful to pass through it. It was here that the malignant yellow fever broke out in the year 1793, which made such terrible ravages; and in the summer season, in general, the street is found extremely unhealthy.

That the inhabitants, after suffering so much from the sickness that originated in it, should re main thus inattentive to the cleanliness of Water-street is truly surprising; more espe cially so, when it is considered, that the streets in the other parts of the town are as much distinguished for the neatness that prevails throughout them, as this one is for its dirty condition. On the level plot of ground on the top of the bank which rises behind Water-street, the city of Philadelphia was originally laid out, and it was intended by the founder that no houses should have been erected at the bottom PHILADELPHIA. of it ; however as there was no positive law to this effect, the convenience of the situation soon tempted numbers to build there, and they are now encroaching annually on the river, by throwing wharfs farther out into the stream.

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