The history of the Orkney Islands

Front matter

HISTORY OF TrfE ORKNEY ISLANDS INCLUDING A VIEW OF THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THEIR ANCIENT AND MODERN INHABITANTS; THEIR MONUMENTS OF ANTIQUITY; THEIR NATURAL HISTORY, OR MINERAL, BOTANICAL, AND ANIMAL PRODUCTIONS THE PRESENT STATE OF THEIR AGRICULTURE; MANUFACTURES; FISHERIES; AND COMMERCE; AND THE MEANS OF THEIR IMPROVEMENT : WITH A MAP OF THE ISLANDS, AND VIEWS OF REMARKABLE SCENERY. By the late Rev. Dr. BARRY MINISTER OF SHAPINSHAY IN ORKNEY. > THE SECOND EDITION, WITH CORRECTIONS AND ADDITIONS By the Rev. JAMES HEADRICK. LONDON: PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, AND ORME, PATF.RN05TF.n--R.0W. l8o8. Stiahan and Preston, Printers-Street, London. TO THE RIGHT FIONOURABLE LORD DUNDAS. MY LORD, THE HISTORY OF THE ORKNEY ISLANDS was lately published by my Father, under your Lordihip's Patronage 5 and the Favourable Opinion you have been pleased to express of the Work, had my Father lived to enjoy it, would have added greatly to the Satisfaction derived from the Approbation of the Public.

A Second Edition being called for, may I request the Honour of dedicating it likewise to your Lordship. — I owe it to the Memory of my Father ; — I owe it also to the personal Favours conferred on my self; and still more to the Feelings of a Family, happy in the Oppor tunity of thus publickly expressing their Gratitude to their Patron and Benefactor. I have the Honour to be, MY LORD, Your Lordship's much obliged And most obedient Servant, JOHN BARRY. Shapinshay, Dec. io, 1807. A z In submitting this second Edition of Dr. Barry's History of the Orkney Islands to the public inspection, the Editor is aware, that, if he could offer an account of a Terra ausralis incognita, curiosity would be excited, and the book would be perused with avidity. He is aware that, a cluster of Islands, which, with a fair wind, are only three or four days' fail from the capital of the Empire, cannot excite that interest from their novelty, which we would take in the description of places inhabited by savages ; where volca nos vomited forth subterranean fires ; where the traveller, at every step, encountered strange minerals, plants, and animals ; and which could not be reached without the circumnavigation of the globe.

In such cases, the dif ficulties surmounted, and the dangers incurred while obtaining information render the adventures of the historian more interesting, than either the utility or importance ofthe information he conveys. Although our author has kept out of view his own adventures, while employed in collecting the information he exhibits, we are not to suppose, that such a work could be drawn up in the closet, amidst the calm of learned retirement. Our Author must often have crossed the rapid sounds which intersect these Islands, where the tides run like torrents descending from the sides of mountains; and, when they encounter a strong wind, raise com motions which would appal any person but the native iflanders. Often must he have grappled with the mountain billows of the Atlantic, and of the Northern Ocean, and, when he reached land, submitted to accommoda tions or rather privations, which would scare the inhabitants of districts more populous and better cultivated. — These circumstances, while they may be urged as an excuse for any defects that may appear in his work, ought also VI also to enhance the value ofthe information he has obtained, and has com municated to the Public.

Preface

TO THE SECOND EDITION. of their territories among their children, occasioned bloody contests among themselves about the right of succession ; and it was only when the whole principality was united under a daring and enterprising chief, that he could extend his views abroad, or engage in foreign expeditions. But since the re-annexation of these Iflands to the crown of Scotland, their progress has been retrograde, or, at least, they have become stationary, •while other parts of the Empire were advancing in improvement. This may partly be ascribed to their distance from the seat of government ; the frequent minorities of our kings ; and the many interruptions of their plans for improving the fisheries, and promoting the prosperity of their subjects. The antient revenues which they furnished for supporting the dignity of their Earls, and carrying on their government, were removed, and ex pended at a distance; and, in addition to these, the islanders were subjected to all the taxes imposed by the Scottish, and afterwards by the British Parliament.

The antient revenues, being mostly paid in kind, operate as an invincible obstacle to the improvement of agriculture ; because it is not the interest ofthe cultivator to improve the quality ofthe corn, meal, malt, butter, and other articles he pays to his superior ; and he is only anxious to procure the requisite quantity, however inferior they may be in quality. Such payments also compel the cultivator to adhere to the antient system which was introduced at the commencement of agriculture, and operate as an effectual bar against his adopting an enlightened rotation of crops, with a suitable proportion of green crops and sown grasses. From the known patriotism ofthe Noble Lord who holds in property the rents of the Earldom of Orkney, it is to be hoped, that, were this matter properly represented to him, he would agree to accept of the annual market price of the various articles payable to him, to be ascertained by an impartial jury, in place of the ipsa corpora.

There can be no doubt but this commutation, while it unfettered the industry ofthe people, and relieved them from the domina tion of his satraps, would much increase his Lordship's fortune. The aukward weights and measures now used in collecting these rents, should also be abolished, and their value reduced to known and permanent standards. The crown or bishop's lands should also be rendered private property, subject to a pecuniary conversion of the rents they now pay. 9 The The next step is the division of commons; the abolition of run-rig, or mixed occupancy of the cultivators of the soil, and assigning to each a se parate farm. — These obstacles have hitherto retarded the improvement of these Iflands, and, unless they be removed, improvement is physically im possible. These first obstacles being removed, the subsequent steps of improvement are ably detailed by our Author, in the progress of his work.

In addition to what our Author has said upon the improvement of the fisheries, the Editor begs leave to refer to a work of his lately published, entitled a View of the Island os Arran, &c. wherein he points out arrange ments which he conceives to be indispensably necessary for Government to adopt, as well as individual proprietors, or our fisheries must remain for ever in their present languishing condition, and the nation be deprived of the benefit of that population they are adapted to sustain ; our naval great ness of that additional strength they are calculated to supply ; and every class of our people of that command of commerce, and consequent wealth, of which the fisheries are the inexhaustible source. He would feel much diffidence if his ideas on this subject rested entirely upon his own observa tions ; but he has taken advantage of the experience of his friend Captain Fraser, who has had much better opportunities of studying the subject, both theoretically and by laborious investigation, and whose ideas are sound, rational, and practical.

In a Note subjoined to p. 380. the Editor states, that other products, per haps more valuable than alkaline salt, may be extracted from the marine fuci, or sea-weeds. He conceives that this assertion may require some ex planation. Several years ago, when he was employed by the worthy Lord Seaforth, in exploring his Island of Lewis, having met with a con tusion which rendered him incapable of doing his duty some time, he em ployed himself in making experiments on sea* weeds. He found that they contained the salts which are dissolved in sea-water ; soluble mucilage, and a portion of ligneous fibres: but no particle of alkaline salts was he able to trace in them, unless the plants were previously subjected to combustion or to putrefaction. The mucilage was of two sorts, one of which dissolved in cold, and the other in warm water.

He thought that a mucilage might a be X be extracted from these weeds, of two sorts, which might be of essential use in many of our manufactures. But what he chiefly alludes to, is a bituminous substance he stumbled upon in these vegetables, which seems well adapted to supply the place of tar in the construction of ships. It is more nearly allied to Japan varnish, than to common tar, and therefore he gave it the name of marine varnish. As opportunity offered he made many experiments on this substance after wards, and sent several specimens of it to that respectable Nobleman, Earl Spencer, then First Lord ofthe Admiralty. It appeared to abound most in those fuci, which were situated farthest towards the north ; and, when he was last in Caithness, he passed over to Orkney, and devoted himself to the construction of an apparatus which might obviate all the errors he had for merly committed, and try the experiment on a large scale.

But in a thinly inhabited country he could not get labourers, except when it suited their convenience, and the distant points from which he was obliged to collect his materials, occasioned such a loss of time, that the season was too far advanced, and the weather too bad, to admit of trying the experiment after his apparatus was constructed. It is true we have public bodies whose professed object is to afford assistance to experiments which may increase the greatness, and promote the prosperity, of their country. But these are generally under such stupid management, that their only effect is to swell the ephemeral importance of those who direct them : and all wise and rational men endeavour to prevent their ignorance from doing harm, and think much is gained when they confine themselves to childish and frivolous pursuits ; as they despair of seeing them instrumental in doing any good.

The result of burning the fuci the Editor found to be, the production of two species of alkaline salt, — potash and soda. The potash seemed to be owing to a combination of some principle in the atmosphere with the mucilaginous substance in the plant. The soda seemed to be produced from the decom position, or some change effected upon the marine salt, which entered into the composition ofthe plant. He ascertained that the greater the heat, in contact with atmospheric air, the greater the quantity of alkaline salt pro duced from a given quantity of fuci ; and that by a more scientific com- 7 bustion bustion of our sea-weeds, we might obtain alkaline salt equal, or superior in value to Spanish barilla, while we also obtained the other produ^s alluded to, of great use in our manufactures, and in the construction of ships.

All this he proposed to effect by methods which would lead a greater proportion of our population to live upon the sea ; and thus they would be qualified to man those ships from which their previous labours had excluded the irruptions of water. The scenery of these Iflands surprises a stranger by its novelty. No hedges, few trees, but stunted buffies in different places, which constant cutting for making creels or baskets, prevents from attaining the size of trees. The iflands are generally low and of smooth surface, and when seen from an eminence, with the intervening sounds and bays glancing in the fun-beams, they appear like smoothed lawns intersected by artificial ponds and canals ; with this sole difference, that the wild beauties and majestic features of Na ture, far surpass the puny efforts of human art.

In summer no darkness, or very long days with short intervals of night ; at this season the setting and rising sun, when seen from an eminence, ex hibits a spectacle ofthe most resplendent glory, which excites astonishment, but which baffles description. His orb, magnified to an enormous size by his oblique position, appears like a vast globe of liquid iron sinking into the ocean. Bright flashes of light are reflected from the bounding waves in the distant horizon, and resemble the commotion excited in water, when a vast mass of hot iron is plunged into it. Streams of various coloured light tinge the intervening sea ; while the sky is occupied by golden rays, which fill more than a quadrant of the horizon. After the fun is down, the splen did blaze of golden rays appears to move round towards the north ; and the fun soon rises again, to the east of north, with renovated glory and splendor. lt may be necessary to explain the views which have directed the Editor in preparing this second Edition for the press. — He is aware that the arrangement might have been improved ; but it ssiould be considered, that the Reverend Author was more solicitous about the collection of his ma terials than about their fastidious arrangement. That his work was not drawn up amidst the calm recesses of study, where method is expected, a 2 even

PREFACE.

TO THE SECOND EDITION. even when the matter is not worth the trouble of methodizing ; and that materiam superabit opus. He made no alterations but such as he supposed the author himself would have made, had he been alive. When he dif fered in opinion, or when he thought additional explanation necessary, it is generally subjoined as a note, to which the letter E. is annexed. In consequence of his distance from the press, he obeserves that a few typographical errors have crept in j but he is happy to find they do not materially affect the sense. JAMES HEADRICK. Dunichen by Forfar, Nov. 1807. CON- Page. i 5 ibid* 19 68 ibid. 89 CHAP CONTENTS.

Book I

A View of the Iflands, considered as a whole, combined with a Geographical Description of each CHAP. I. Some Observations that Regard the I/lands in general CHAP. II. A Geographical Description ofthe I/lands

Book II

An Account of the earliest Inhabitants, with whatever is most Remarkable in their Manners, Customs, and Institutions ; of the Transactions and Character of those People that conquered, and mingled with, or succeeded them ; and a Description of some remaining Monuments of both these People ; of the Changes the Iflands underwent in subsequent Ages under different Sovereigns and different Rulers; and the Influence these seem evidently to have had in retarding their Improvement chap. 1. The Time they were probably firfil discovered, the Origin of their Name, their first Inhabitants, and the Mode of Government that, if not at first, at least at a very early Period, seems to have prevailed CHAP. II. Of the Manners and Customs ofthe Pitts CONTENTS. Page. CHAP. III. Os tlie Arrival ofthe Scandinavians) and their Transactions in these Islands 1 12 CHAP. IV.

Ofthe Transactions in the Islands, till they became fubjeCl to the Crown of Scotland 160 CHAP. V. Of some Monuments of Antiquity that are ascribed to the Scandinavians, or, at least, referred to the Period when they possessed these Islands - 211 CHAP. VI. Of the I/lands after they became Snbject to another Sovereign ; the many Changes that they underwent ; and the influence which these seem manifestly to have ad, in retarding their Improvement - - - - 240.

Book III

The present State of these Islands, their favourable Situation and Circumstances, and the Advantages that might be derived from them - - - 268 chap I. Their Natural Hi/lory - ibid. Sect. i. Mineralogy - - - 269 Sect. 2. Botany - 27c Sect. 3. Zoology - 293 CHAP. II. The Inhabitants of the Islands - - . . <,nX Sect. i. The Population - _ «. ibid» Sect. 2. Manners and Customs - - - . CHAP. III. Industry ---.-. 34g_ Sect, i Agriculture - - - _ ,-0 Sect. 2. Manufactures - - - . • 374 Sect. 3. Commerce - ■ „ ,83 Sect. 4. Fisheries --_ - . - *gt Ap- CONTENTS. XV Page. 401 410 42o 424 426- 428* Ap* Appendix, No. I. — Diploma, or Deduction, concerning the Genealogies of the Ancient Counts of Orkney, from their First Creation to the Fifteenth Century : Drawn up from the most authentic Records, by Thomas, Bishop of Orkney, with the Assistance of his Clergy, and others, in consequence of an Order from Eric, King of Denmark, to investigate the Right of William Sinclair to the Earldom - - p..

Appendix, No. II. — Dean Gule's Transtation of the foregoing Deduction ofthe Orkney Counts, transcribed from the Original Copy bound in with Dr. Bennet's Book of Battles, a MS. originally belonging to the Family of Roslin, the Second Page being subscribed by William Sinclare of Rostin, at whose Desire ihe Dean says this Transtation was made. It afterwards fell into the Hands of Dr. George Mackenzie, who, in the Beginning of the Third Volume of his Lives, mentions it at large, giving us also an ExtraCl from the first Part of the following Transtation. The late Mr. James Mackenzie had the MS. from Hildin, Dr. George's Nephew ; which he again gave to the Lord Sinclare, who promised to lodge it in the Advocate's Library, Edinburgh Appendix, No. III. — From Sir James Balfour's Catalogue of the Scottish Nobility, MS. in the Advocate's Library, Edinburgh.

He was Lord Lyon, King at Arms, in the Beginning of King Charles the First's Reign Appendix, No. IV. — Earls ofthe Orkneys Appendix, No. V. — Table of the Ancient Counts of Orkney, according to the Genealogical Series above stated, also ofthe Line of these Counts down to this Day. A Succession so long continued, and so well vouched, that no Family in any Nation can boast of the like ; having for its Foundation these concurring Authorities ; first, those followed by the Little Parliament of this Country, in •their Genealogical Series before mentioned ; secondly, those followed in the Orcades of Torfæus, and Orkneyinga Saga ; and lastly, the Authority of that great Antiquary, Sir James Balfour, King at Arms, in his Catalogue of the Scots Nobility ------- Afpendix, No. VI. — Exemption ContraClus Matrimonialis inter Sereniffwium Scotiæ Regem Jacobum Tertium et Serenifstmam Principem Margaretham PotentiJstmi Principis Christian!

Primi Daniœ Norvegiæ, et Svecice Regis Filiam. E Torscei Hist. extraclum - CONTENTS. Pag-J. 437 451 453 460 433 49Q THB Appendix, Nc. VII. — Descriptio Insularum Orchadiarum, per me Jo: Ben, ibidem Colentem, in anno 1529 Appendix, No. VIII. — [From the Collection of Papers respecting Orkney, in possession of the Antiquarian Society os ' Scotland -~\ Appendix, No. IX. — A Short Relation ofthe most Considerable Things in Orkney, by Mr. Mathew Mackaile, Apothecary at Aberdeen. — MS. Adv. Lib. Edin. Appendix, No, X. — The ACls of Bailiary for executing of Justice through the County of Orkney - - - Appendix, No. XL*— From the Orcades ofThormodus Torfæus Appendix, No. XII — Respite in favour of Edward Sinclare and others for the Slaughter of the Earl of Cathnefs, From the Original Parchment I THE HISTORY OF THE ORKNEY ISLANDS.

INTRODUCTION.

. IN order that a more distinct and comprehensive view of these islands may be given, it is intended to look back to early times ; and, by means of those feeble and scattered rays of light, furnished occasionally by ancient writers, to point out who were their first inhabitants; from what country it is probable they came ; to what form of government they were subject ; and what were their manners, their customs, their religion and laws, till towards the end of the ninth, or beginning of the tenth century, they became incorporated in the mass of their Scandinavian invaders. The Scandinavians had about that time acquired, on their native lakes and shores, a high degree of renown, both on account of their military prowess, and of the colonies which they had sent out, not only into Ork ney and Shetland, but also into the northern coasts of Britain, the Feroes, Iceland, and the Western Isles.

Into whatever country they came, or whatever was their intention, to invade, to plunder, to conquer, or to pro cure settlements, they displayed the same military spirit which they had done at home; and, in Iceland, they added to this virtue a wisdom, which, among a barbarous people, has seldom been equalled, and never surpassed, in forming themselves into a regular republic, the laws and constitution of B which

INTRODUCTION.

. which have been the admiration of the learned, and are as well authenti cated as those of any stare in ancient times. That branch of the Scandinavians who conquered the first inhabitants of the Orkney Islands, and settled among them, shewed in their conduct the same intrepid spirit, the same love of glory and contempt of death, and all the other prominent and distinctive features, that marked the character of the colonies as well as that of the parent state. This will appear evident from the details that shall be given in delineating their character, as dis played in their military transactions and civil institutions; in their manners, their customs, their religious ceremonies and superstitions, several monu ments of which they have left behind them. From about the middle of the fifteenth century, when the Islands ceased to acknowledge a foreign master, and were ceded to the Scottish Crown (to •which, on account of their vicinity, they should have always belonged), we shall naturally be led to consider the change in their condition which this new connexion produced.

Here, instead of the improvement that might have been expected, we are compelled, however reluctantly, to re gret the unhappy influence which the character, combined with the number and rapid succession of those whom their new Sovereign appointed as grantees, farmers, and rulers, appears but too evidently to have had, in re pressing the genius of the people, damping the ardour of their spirit, and checking their industry in the arts of life. After having thus taken a pretty extensive view of the Islands from the time they were first inhabited ; stated facts, with the causes that led to th m, and the consequences which they produced ; drawn with fidelity the por traits of the principal actors; and traced the various changes which they have undergone, to that period when they were granted irredeemably to a subject, who soon afterwards fold them ; our attention will be directed to their present state.

In this part of the plan, which we regard as of chief importance, the utmost pains shall be taken to state facts fairly, and place them in the clearest and most interesting point of view. In order that nothing of importance may be omitted, we shall give a sketch of their natural history, together with some account of their population, and the manners and customs, character INTKODUCTION. 3 character and industry of the people by whom they are at present inhabited. As agriculture constitutes not only the first and most necessary, but the noblest of all the arts, it shall be, under this last division, treated of at con siderable length, along with a brief account of their fisheries, their com merce, their manufactures, and particularly that of kelp, which for a long time past has been justly considered as their staple commodity.

In tlie exe cution of this part of our subject, many practices will meet our approba tion ; some will merit censure; errors and defects shall be candidly pointed out, and ascribed to what appears to be their true causes; and such improvements suggested, as may, it is apprehended, contribute in some degree to the advantage of the empire at large, as well as to the internal prosperity of the Islands themselves. But neither their ancient nor their present state can be understood accurately, unless a previous description be given of the whole of the islands that com pose the group. Their surface, and general appearance, their temperature, soil and climate, must be stated, and the advantages of their situation accurately pointed out; the excellence of their harbours, capable at all times of receiving ships almost in any number, and of any size, together with the figure, dimensions, the relative situation and the productions of each, the improvements of which they are respectively susceptible, and the objects of curiosity which they contain, must all be exhibited in such a conspicuous point of light, that whoever attends to these particulars, may find no difficulty in thoroughly comprehending the subsequent part of the work.

If the history of these islands be thus considered, it will appear to be both important and extensive, and will naturally divide itself into three books. Book I. will contain, besides a general view of all the iflands that com pose the cluster, a short geograohical description of each, comprehending its respective productions, its figure, extent, and relative situation, its har bours, and such other objects as seem best calculated to gratify a laudable curiosity, or to serve the more important purposes of conveying useful in formation. B 2 Boon

INTRODUCTION.

. Book II. will comprise an account of the earliest inhabitants; whatever is most remarkable in their manners, customs, and institutions ; the trans actions and character of those people that conquered and mingled with, or succeeded them ; a description of some remaining monuments of both these races of people ; of the changes of the iflands in subsequent ages, under different rulers, and of the influence these seem evidently to have had in retarding their improvement. Book III. will exhibit the present state of these iflands with respect to their mineral, vegetable and animal productions ; their population, language, manners, customs ; and the different species of industry that prevail at this time. Agriculture, in particular, on account of its importance, will occupy a considerable portion of this book ; to which will naturally succeed,, the consideration of manufactures, fisheries and commerce : the causes of their low state at present will be considered, and the means that might be em ployed for improving them to such a degree as could not fail to ameliorate the condition of the people, and at the fame time contribute to the advantage of the State.

BOOK /sr'// ' "/• '> /////'/// //'/>/// ///C ///\^. Published by Longman, Burst, fees, £r Orme.Tafemoster Row, OrtTi.iSoi. t 5 ] B O O K I A VIEW OF THE ISLANDS, CONSIDERED AS A WHOLE, COMBINED WITH A GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF EACH. CHAP. I. SOME OBSERVATIONS THAT REGARD THE ISLANDS IN GENERAL- 1 HE islands that compose the group, known to the ancients by the name of Orcades, and styled by the moderns Orkney, are situated in the Northern Ocean, between the coast of Caithness, and Shetland, from the former of which they are distant only about four, and from the latter nearly twenty leagues. From observations that have been taken with sufficient {kill and accuracy, the latitude of Kirkwall, the centre, has been fouud to be fifty-nine degrees and nine minutes north, and the longitude two degrees and thirty minutes west, from the meridian of Greenwich.

Their form, as may easily be conceived, is, from the force of the ocean, and the rapidity of the tides, extremely irregular;, and, from this circumstance, the dimensions of some of them are a certained with no small. difficulty. Of those that are inhabited, some are so small as not to exceed a mile in length ; whereas the Mainland, or principal island, extends to nearly thirty. They are separated from one another by portions of water, denominated sounds, friths, or ferries, some of which are only a mile broad, and others more than five. 'Though thus closely connected together, the whole of them, are of considerable extent ; for, from the south west to the north-east, the points farthest removed from each other, the distance is not less than seventy miles, and they are upwards of forty in the other direction.

Compared with the sterile wilds in some of the sister islands to the north, or even with the lofty hills and bleak marmy plains to the south of them, the\ OBSERVATIONS ON THE ISLANDS IN GENERAL.

Book I

they gain so much, that their appearance is pleasantly inviting and favour able. To the eye, their surface presents much variety. Great Britain itself is in a great measure level towards the east coast, through its whole extent, from the North-Foreland Head in Kent, to Dun cansbay in Caithness, and rises gradually as it advances towards the west, till it swells at last into a ridge of hills or mountains, which Providence in its kindness seems to have erected as a bulwark against the fury of the Atlantic waves. The fame conformation, though comparatively on a very small scale in deed, is observable in the Orkney Islands. Many, to their fad experience, too weli know how low their eastern coasts, especially toward the north, are ; for this circumstance, more than any other, has caused many fatal strip wrecks.

Towards the west coast, on the other hand, from the one extremity of the islands to the other, the land is so elevated as, with a sev/ interruptions, to form itself into a range of hills, not high indeed, but much more so than what are generally met with in the interior of the country. These hills, the highest of which does not exceed twelve hundred feet, do not always run in the longest direction ofthe island*, but frequently stretch across them ; and while their sides that face the Western Ocean are bold and steep in the ex treme, their opposite ones, for the most part, shelve away into plains of considerable extent, with a gentle declivity *. The shores in this quarter are in many places bounded by rocks awfully majestic. In some places they remain entire : in others they have yielded to the force of the billows and the ravages of time, and are consequently shattered into a thousand different soapes, altogether lorming a scene highly interesting.