Illustrations of the scenery of Killarney and the surrounding country

Front matter

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Section I

General description of the three Lakes of Killarney — Mucruss— Turk cottage and cascade.>^Mines and minerals of the peninsula between the lakes — Geological observations. — Abbey of Irrelagh ^ts antiquities — still a favourite place of burial. — Funerals of the Irish — ^strong expressions of grief — vehemence of their passions. — Description of the islands near Mucruss — ruins of Castle lough — Cahirnane — Kenmare house and gardens. — Observations on the bogs of Ireland, and the large trees found in them. — General description of the northern shore of the great lower lake. — Extraordinary eifects of sun-set. — The Earl of Kenmare's deer-park. — Hill of Aghadoe — its antiquities. — Ruined cathedral and abbey — round towers — great antiquity of these buildings — review of the various theories respecting their probable uses. — Stone circle. — ^Ancient fortifications near the river Flesk. — Dunloh castle — defile called Dunloh Gap — road through it to the upper lake.— - Macarthy-more's country.

SECTION II.— Page SS, Remarks on the navigation of the lake. — Ross castle — some account of its siege and capture by the parliamentary army — Ross island — destruction of its woods — impolicy of felling timber prematurely. — Wandering musician — Mines of Ross — re-opened latelyancient tools found there. — Project of draining the lake. — Marble quarries. — 0*Donoghoe's prison — legendary account of the ancient prince of that name. — Innisfallen island — ^fruitful yew — monastic ruins.— Observations on the state of Ireland during the dark ages. — Early Irish manuscripts. — Annals of Innisfallen and others— specimens thereof. — Remarks on the ancient history of Ireland.— Description of the ruins of Innisfallen, — Decline of

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SECTION L

The Lake of Killarney is situated nearly in the centre of the maritime county of Kerry, on the confines of a chain of lofty mountains. The space included between this chain and the ocean, on the west, containing upwards of thirty square miles, is entirely occupied by other mountains of still greater magnitude.

amongst which are those called Magillicuddy's reeks, computed to be the most elevated in Ireland. In general, the disposition of these mountains is very irregular ; but, as they approach the sea, they form short ridges, terminating on the coast in bold and rugged headlands.

This mountainous region abounds with lakes. They are mostly found in the depths of the valleys ; but some are situated on the sides of the mountains, at a great elevation, in cavities resembling the craters of volcanos. The one known by the name of the Devil's Punch-bowl, near the summit of Mangerton, in the vicinity of Killarney, is at least fifteen hundred feet above the level of the sea ; and after .. heafy rains dischai;ges a large stream, which rolls 'ifewn the jai)unp^ dis-

tinguishable by their white foam at the distance of many miles.

Of these numerous lakes, the largest, as well as the lowest, is that of Killarney. It may be considered, indeed, an immense reservoir for the waters of the surrounding country, supplied by the overflowings of other lakes, by rills from the adjoining mountains, and by rivers which fall into it after having been augmented during their long course by countless tributary streams. The only outlet to this extensive basin is the clear and rapid river Laune, which conveys the surplus water into the Atlantic ocean through the bay of Dingle.

Nor is Killarney less pre-eminent above all the other lakes of Kerry, on account of beauty than extent : for whilst the shores of the latter bear no traces of cultivation, and are rarely distinguished by any striking features from the dreary wastes which surround them, its enchanting banks, singled out as it were by Nature for the display of some of her choicest productions, present^ the charming variety of a rich and adorned landscape, contrasted with the picturesque wildness of mountain and forest scenery.

The lake consists of three distinct bodies of water. Of these, the first, which is called the upper lake, lies embosomed amidst the mountains : the others, situated at the exterior base of the chain, are bounded at one side alone by mountains ; and in the opposite direction they open to a cultivated country, whose surface is diversified by innumerable hills. The two last divisions are nearly upon the same level, and lie contiguous to each other,, being separated merely by a narrow peninsula, and some small islands, between which there are channels passable for boats ; but the upper lake stands three miles distant, at the head of a navigable river which flows through a romantic valley or defile. Near the termination of its course, this river divides into two branches, one of which flows peaceably into the bay of Glena, on the great or lower lake ; the other, forcing its mazy way through a rocky channel, issues with considerable impetuosity into the middle lake, under the woods of Dinis island.

The first mountain in the chain we have described, beginning at the east, which meets the waters of Killarney, is that of Turk. It forms the boundary of one entire side of the middle division of the lake ; from which circumstance the latter receives the name of Turk lake. Beyond this mountain there is a defile in the chain, through which flows the river from the upper lake.

The next mountain in succession is called Glena. It projects, as may be observed on the map, beyond the line of Turk, so as to present two sides to the water : one of them overhangs the bay of Glena ; the other opens to the broadest part of the lower lake. Both these mountains rise abruptly from the water, and are marked by numerous bold breaks and projecting rocks. They remain nearly in a state of nature ; no roads, no proprietary boundaries, are observable on their surface, and they exhibit few traces of cultivation.

Tomies mountain, the next and last in succession which is washed by the lake, rises more gradually than the others, and at its base presents to view a

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Not long since all these mountains were clothed down to the water's edge with oaks of large growth ; most of these venerable trees, however, have fallen under the axe, which has been busily plied year after year. On that side of Glena next to the bay, a considerable extent of wood still indeed adorns the landscape ; but even this last surviving remnant of the vast mountain forests of Kerry has been doomed to perish ; the woodmen have already commenced their ravages ; and in a short period the landscape will be deprived of one of its richest ornaments. The destruction of these forests is principally attributable to the manufacture of iron, — a business once carried on with great spirit in various parts of the county, and for which an abundant supply of charcoal was required. As fuel became scarce, the iron-works declined, and at last they were totally abandoned. The woods are now cut for other purposes, as timber in this country is become extremely valuable, in consequence of the prodigal use that was formerly made of it.

The hills which bound the lake, on the side opposite to the mountains, in general, slope gradually down to the water ; but in one part, between the river Denagh and Castle-lough bay, for a distance of about two miles, a tract of low and level ground inteiv

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,, -^^^^^ --=1- venes between them and the lake. This level ground, in itself the least interesting part of the shores of Killarn^y, becomes of importance to the general eft feet of the scene, from the striking contrast it offers to the opposite mountains, and the apparent increase it gives to their height.

The town of Killarney, from which the lake takes its name, is situated on this flat at the foot of the hills.

In attempting to communicate a more intimate knowledge of the varied scenes of Killarney, I shall begin with the demesne of Mucruss, which stretches from the foot of Turk mountain along the eastern borders of the middle and lower lakes : and here I shall beg leave to direct the attention to the three first plates, which severally contain views taken from an eminence called the Green Hills. Engravings destitute of the assistance of colours, upon whose harmonious combination so much of the pleasure which we derive from the contemplation of the works of nature depends, are at best but ill qualified for the purposes of landscape ; and the small scale to which these have necessarily been limited, sensibly diminishes the interest of the subject ; but it is presumed that they will still be instrumental in elucidating the description. Indeed, even the haopiest powers of the pencil itself would be baffled in the attempt to pourtray the innumerable beauties in this enchanting scene.

Shade unperceived so softening into shade, And all so forming an harmonious whole, That, as they still succeed, they ravish still.

The distance of the spot where these views are taken, from the Water, is about half an English mile j the intermediate space is occupied by a park richly adorned with woods, over which the spectator is supposed to look down upon the lake.

In the first plate, an outline is given of the prospect from south-south-west to north-north-west ; and the mountains are distinguished by name. The other plates, as may be readily observed, are only finished views of parts of the same scenes.*

Turk mountain, from this station, appears nearly insulated, owing to the defiles at each of its extremities. One of them affords a passage to the river from the upper lake, and through the other runs a wild road leading from Killarney to Nedheen, a town situated at the head of a large estuary of the south-western coast, called Kenmare river. The water at

* It was the original design of the author to have given one or more panorama views, from different stations ; but the artist who was employed upon the first of them having failed of producing the effect that was intended, and which perhaps was not attainable on so small a scale, it was judged expedient to break the plate, and not to attempt others on the same plan. v the foot of this mountain Is a part of Turk lake. The bold promontory observable on the near shore of the lake, is a remarkable mass of marble, whose pale blue colour sometimes blends insensibly into that of the water, sometimes forms a strong contrast to it, according as it is influenced by the changes of the atmosphere : it remains dark when the lake assumes a bright silvery hue ; on the contrary, when a lowering sky throws a gloom over the waves, it is as conspicuous for its brightness.

The rugged heights to the right of Turk form one side of the defile through which the river flows from the upper lake.

The water beneath Glena mountain is apart of the

bay of the same name, on the lower lake, between

which and Mucruss house are seen the woods of the

peninsula which separates the middle and lower lake.

Tomies mountain, which has a double peak, is the

next in succession to that of Glena ; the others qi

the same chain lie concealed from this point of view.

The low shore to the right of Tomies mountain is

the most remote part of the lower lake, distant from

the spectator about six miles. The mountains above

it overhang the northern ^hore of the bay of Dingle,

which opens to the Atlantic pcean, at the further

distance of thirty miles.

The different points of land in the middle distance, which intercept the view of the remote boundary of the lake, are islands ; amongst which that of Ross appears conspicuous, from its castle ; and the hills appearing above these islands skirt the northern shore of the lake.

The demesne of Mucruss is not less remarkable for its internal beauty, than for the variety of noble prospects which it commands of the lake and adjacent mountains. Diversified in the most pleasing manner with hill and dale, parts of it are spread into lawns clothed with the richest verdure, and adorned with graceful trees ; others are broken with marble rocks, around which native vines extend their wanton tendrils -, others are over-run with a wild entangled forest. On one side a ruin, venerable from its antiquity, rears its mossy towers amidst embowering groves ; and in an opposite direction, down the wooded mountain, a cataract

In headlong torrents hurls

His sounding waters ; while on every cliff

Hangs the light foam, and sparkles through the gloom,

The entrance is in a decayed village, once the flourishing seat of an iron-manufactory, and it does not prepossess the imagination in favour of the place to which it leads ; but the charms of the scene are quickly revealed after passing it. At first the road runs over hills of easy ascent, in the interior of the demesne j afterwards, winding towards the lake, it continues along the shore, passing through thicketis which afford variety by occasionally intercepting the view of the water. The house stands near a grove* not many yards from the lake : it is not advantageously situated with regard to prospect; but in a more elevated position it would perhaps have been deprived of shelter, so necessary to domestic comfort, and been exposed to the dreadful whirlwinds which descend from the mountains during the winter season. The fabric is old, and seems to call for repair ; but the attention of the proprietor is, at present, chiefly directed towards the improvement of the borders of the middle lake, in the vicinity of a small house or cottage lately built at the foot of the mountain. Extensive plantations of forest trees have been made at this place, stretching from the water nearly half way up the mountain ; and the improvements are annually continued by the proprietor with skill and enterprise. Of the grand effect they will produce at a future day, if they are allowed by the succeeding possessors to arrive at maturity, some notion may be formed from the prospect of the ancient hanging woods on Glena mountain, which appear above the islands at the extremity of the lake.

It is painful to reflect how much the beauty of the lake has been impaired by the destruction of the forests ; and still more painful to learn that the few remaining venerable trees have been devoted to the axe. By their removal, the scenery is likely to sustain an injury irreparable during the present generation ; but the vigorous efforts of Colonel Herbert to form new plantations, afford a ray of hope, that, at a future day, many of its former charms may be restored. Every person who visits Killarney must feel indebted to that spirit of improvement which displays itself amidst so extended a system of devastation.

Though the landscape has, on the whole, been improved by the alterations which have been effected in the vicinity of Turk cottage, yet objections may perhaps be started against some of them for not according with the general character of the scenery. It may admit of doubt whether the smooth shorn surface of the meadows between the cottage and the lake does not present too striking a contrast to the ruggedness of the mountain, and aflbrd too glaring an instance of the compulsory powers of art. The ground abounded with rocks, which were removed from it with much difficulty ; and although where man resides, nature must be conquered by his perseverance and ingenuity, yet " it is only the ostentation of the triumph," as a professor of landscape gardening observes, " and not the victory, that ought to offend the eye of taste." The present trimness of the ground is said to be imputable to the over-zealous exertions of the agents who were employed to clear the spot during the absence of the proprietory and, to remedy this mistake, it has been proposed to replace some of the rocks in their ancient beds. But the labour and expense of such a task, were it indeed feasible, would be a paramount objection ; and, to re-clothe the rocks with moss, and restore the pictu^ resque attire of nature, would probably be a vain attempt. It was well observed formerly, by the ingenious Bishop Berkely, " that the king of France might lay out another Versailles, but that with all his revenue he could not lay out another Mucruss.'* The cottage is a simple and rather pleasing building, with an arched porch in front, after the ancient English style. The little lawn before it is watered by the clear and rapid stream which flows from Turk cascade; and across it has been thrown a Gothic bridge, whose dimensions, if intended merely to facilitate the approach to the cottage, and beyond it the mountain is quite inaccessible to horsemen, appear more than commensurate to the object; but it is said that a new road has been planned to run from the demesne of Mucruss to the upper lake, across this bridge. After traversing the delightful glades of the demesne, this road would stretch for two miles along the border of the lake, at the base of Turk mountain ; then gradually winding to the left, it would follow the meandering course of the river which flows through the defile, and finally reach the retired confines of the upper lake. Scarcely would it be possible to find in any country a road more diversified and beautiful. The most picturesque scenes of Killarney would then be disclosed to view, and the shores of the upper lake rendered easy of access, to which the passage is, at present, impeded by a thousand difficulties and delays. How many anxious and curious visitors would then enjoy the varied scenery of the upper lake, who now retire from Killarney, lamenting its troubled waters and its stormy skies !

The view from Turk cottage is grand and solemn. On the left, rising to a great height, appears the mountain ; its summit frequently capped with clouds, and its base washed by the lake for an extent of nearly two miles. Rocks and thick woods along the peninsula bound the lake on the opposite side ; and Glena, rising in the distance, displays the full glories of its forests, and terminates the prospect.

Turk cascade is situated at a short distance from the cottage, at the bottom of a deep chasm in the side of the mountain. It is supplied by a river from the valley between Turk and Mangerton mountains, which is augmented occasionally by the stream from the Devil's Punch-bowl. After heavy rains, indeed, a vast body of water descends down the precipice, entirely covering the face of the rock with a sheet of white foam : the chief beauty of the fall consists in its winding course. The sides of the chasm are thickly planted with larch trees, which might be supposed, from the rapidity of their growth, to have found a soil as congenial to their nature as that of the Alps and Apennines. As yet, these trees have not acquired the picturesque attire of age ; but, arrived at maturity, and bowed down by the storm, their appearance must give enchantment to the scene. The eye of fancy will perhaps imagine that it already beholds their withered arms, grey with lichens, extended athwart the dark rocks, whilst the parent stem, prostrated in the flood, lies contending with the impetuosity of the current. Below the cascade the water is lost in a deep ravine, but it soon emerges, and, after passing under the bridge, is seen, at a distance, gliding smoothly into the lake.

Between Turk cottage and the mansion-house of Mucruss, the grounds possess fewer attractions than in any other part ; which is rather attributable to the half-cultivated, half-neglected state in which they are suffered to remain, than to any deficiency in natural beauty. The surface is pleasingly varied and well wooded; but too many of the trees stand in even rows and formal clumps; and several stone fences, by their artificial formality, offend the eye which takes delight in the wild irregularity of nature. Roughness and negligence were not wanting here to increase the interest which the more improved parts of the demesne inspire, as the peninsula between the two lakes, still in a state of native wildness, affords them the best relief imaginable. So sudden a transition, indeed, from the embellished scenes of art to the wildness of the forest, is rarely paralleled.

The peninsula commences at the house, and extends as far as Brickeen bridge, a distance of two miles. It consists of continuous masses of rocks slightly covered with earth, which, notwithstanding the seeming poverty of the soil, are clothed with trees of considerable growth. At the commencement of the peninsula, the branches of the trees are so closely interwoven, and the rocks so rugged, that they form a barrier impervious to persons on horseback, excepting in very few places ; but there is a commodious road through these woods beginning at the mansion-house, which extends the whole length of the peninsula, and thence across Brickeen bridge to the island of the same name : formerly it reached as far as the island of Dinis, but the way at present is not passable for carriages beyond the bridge ; and between Dinis and Brickeen islands there is no longer any communication.

In passing along this road, the eye is gratified with the most delightful views of the lake and distant hills, opening at intervals between the breaks in the woods ; they would, however, be attended with greater interest, if the vistas were more numerous on each side : for in several places the trees along the roadside grow so very closely together as to form a skreen which does not admit even a glimpse of the water for half a mile together. Had all the views between the house and the extremity of the peninsula been nearly the same, it would be judicious, perhaps, to leave the road secluded, as it is at present ; for the same view would excite fresh interest, if the eye returned to it after having been confined for a time to the gloom of a thick wood ; but the scenery here is so much diversified, that, were the whole coast exposed, not a single step would seem tedious. The wooded islands, which appear at a short distance from the shore, are a constant source of new delight. One moment they appear to confine the lake within very narrow limits ; the next, a long expanse of water, with reaches of the distant shore, is discovered between the channels which separate them. The coast of the peninsula itself is also extremely picturesque. Numerous little inlets indent it, some of which are bounded by massive rocks rising to the height of fifty feet above the lake ; others are shaded by the thick pendent foliage of tall trees, gracefully disposed along the water side. The pedestrian who will take the pains of forcing his way along the shore, which, owing to the close intertexture of the branches, and the abundance of hollies, brambles, and thick underwood, is very difficult of access, will find himself amply repaid by the variety of the scenery. The same prospects, it is true, may be more readily commanded, by proceeding in a boat along the shore, and occasionally landing ; but the pleasure they afford under the different circumstances of a deliberate approach from the water, or of an adventurous ramble through the woods, varies considerably. In the one case the person advances, aware in some measure of what he is to behold ; in the other, the views burst upon him unforeseen, producing additional pleasures by their unexpected appearance. In this, as in other instances where the object is of higher import, the pleasure arising from the attainment of our desires is often lessened by anticipation during the moments of pursuit.

Towards the centre, the peninsula assumes a new character. Here it is varied by extensive lawns, some of which are entirely surrounded by woods, whilst others open to the lake. There is a large pool in the middle of one of these lawns, fringed with graceful trees, whose retired and tranquil aspect forcibly rivets the attention, in despite of the much more magnificent scenery in its vicinity. The banks on one side are considerably elevated ; and on their summit stands a rude unfinished building,*

* When it is considered how much has been done to impair the beauty of some of the enchanting lakes in the north of England,

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which appears to have been designed for a rustic temple or pleasure-house ; and indeed a more advantageous scite for such a building could not have been fixed upon, as the spot not only commands an extensive prospect of the lake and mountains, but of the rich verdant slopes and thick woods of Mucruss —

Both where the morning sun first warmly smote "the open field, and where the unpierced shade Imbrov^ried the noontide bowers.

Beyond this delightful spot, towards the point of Camillan, the woods assume a still wilder aspect, and the deepening gloom conveys the idea of the most savage solitude, when all at once, at the bottom of a mass of rocks which a sudden break in the woods discloses, a small cottage appears, whose blue curling smoke rising through the trees gives animation to a scene which but a moment before seemed remote from the haunts of men. It is impossible to approach it without feeling half disposed to envy its inmates the possession of so retired and romantic a dwelling ; though the poor peasants who reside in it, " children of penury and heirs to toil,'* are perhaps only sensible of the inconvenience of a situation by persons of false taste erecting buildings which they call ornamental, it may be deemed a fortunate circumstance that Killarney is still suffered to appear in native simplicity.

removed from the seat of their daily labour, and incapable, from the barrenness of its rocks, of producing the roots upon which they are accustomed to feed.

This house was erected for the superintendant of a neighbouring copper-mine on the borders of Turk lake, but which has not been worked for some years past. When abandoned, the vein of ore had not failed, nor had any inconvenience, it is said, been experienced from the influx of water, although the situation of the mine, close upon the margin of the lake, appears very perilous. The discontinuance of the works was rather to be attributed to the mismanagement, or want of unanimity, amongst the parties concerned in it. At present^ however, the mine is full of water, and a considerable sum of money was ineffectually expended of late i^ attempts to draw it off. It is asserted) though I can scarcely conceive upon good information, that the water has not flowed in from the lake through any rent or chasm in the rocks, as happened at Ross island, on the opposite side of the lower lake, where a very valuable work was destroyed by inundation, in consequence of cutting too close to the water.

The principal produce of this mine on the peninsula was copper pyrites 5 but amongst the rubbish, which lies around the mouth of the old shafts, numerous specimens are observable of grey copper ore.

a;nd malachite ; of brown iron stone, grey cobalt ore, red cobalt ore, both in crystallized germinations and incrustations ; besides various other mineral substances. Some of the specimens of cobalt taken from this place are extremely rich ; and hopes were once entertained that this valuable mineral might be discovered in sufficient quantities to become an important object of commerce. A considerable quantity of it was actually gathered, and sent over to an ingenious potter in England for ;trial ; but it was found to be too intimately mixed with copper and iron to be of much value in his manufacture.*

The peninsula, for about two-thirds of its length, is formed of limestone, resting upon grauwacke. The limestone is of a pale blue colour, and of a dense compact nature ; the same species of stone extends along the shores of Mucruss and Cahirnane, towards the river Deanagh. The islands at the mouth of Elesk river are entirely .composed of it, and it abounds upon Ross, Innisfallen, and the Brown islands. Marble of various colours is found mixed with the common limestone in Mucruss de-

* Cobalt is used for the purpose of staining glass, enamels, eartfien-ware, and porcelain, to which it communicates a beautiful blue colour. The well-known substance caHed smalt blue is nothing more than glass coloured with cobalt, and finely levigated. The crude ore, if of a good quality, is worth, I am informed, two guineas per pound. It is principally procured from Saxony.

mesne and on Ross island. Towards the extremity of the peninsula grauwacke appears, and of this material are formed the islands in Glena bay, and on that side of the lake. No limestone is again observable for many miles beyond Killarney.

As the deposit of limestone is confined to the hollow or basin which contains the great lower lake, it w^ould appear to belong to what are termed the Fla3tz rocks by Werner, resting immediately on his transition series, in the same manner as the limestone does under Ingleborough, in Yorkshire, and near Kendal, in Westmoreland.