A Voyage to South-America: ... undertaken ... by G. Juan and A. de U. ... Translated from the original Spanish [of A. de U. by J. Adams] . Illustrated with copper plates

Front matter

*/ —i<- f- — — oj Swi'TH America "—" Jii>/// ///,- —" • /Jr.,'/. //////„,///,,,. A VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA: DESCRIBING AT LARGE THE SPANISH CITIES, TOWNS, PROVINCES, &c. ON THAT EXTENSIVE- CONTINENT: WNDERTAKEN, by command of THE KING OF SPAIN, BY DON GEORGE JUAN, AND DON ANTONIO DE ULLOA, CAPTAINS OF THE SPANISH NAVY, FELLOWS OF THE RpYAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, MEMBERS OF THE ROYAL ACADEMY AT PARIS, &C. &7C TRANSLATED FROM THE ORIGINAL SPANISH ; WITH NOTES AND OBSERVATIONS; and AN ACCOUNT OF THE BRAZILS. By JOHN ADAMS, Esq. of Waltham Abbey; Who resided several Years in thsise Parts. THE FIFTH EDITION. ILLUSTRATED A^ITH PLATES. VOL. I. LONDON: TRINTED FOR JOHN STOCKDALE, PICCADILLY; R. FAULDER, B6.VD- STREET; LONGMAN AND CO. PATER-NOSTER ROW; LACKINGTON AND CO. FINSBURY SQUARE; AND J.HARDING, ST. JAMES'S STREET. 1807.

J.Bhettell, Printer, Marshall-Strest, Golden-Square. TO COMMODORE SIR HOME POPHAM, Knt. tyc. 4'c' S'c sir ; "WITH a Pride which, I venture to assert, I feel, only in common with every other British Subject, I take the liberty to dedicate to you this Republication. It contains, Avith other interesting matter, a slight sketch of Buenos-Ayres ; that Territory which now is, and Avill most probably remain, from your Foresight, Ability, and personal Bra very, one of the richest Jewels in the United CroAvn., I am proud, Sir, in thus publicly offering my feeble tribute to your extraordinary Me rits, to assure you of the respectful Esteem, high Regard, and sincere Friendship, witli which I have the honour to subscribe myself Your ever obliged, Obedient and humble Servant, JOHN STOCKDALE. London, Sept. 26, 1806. a2

Preface

. J.T is certainly a very true, as Avell as trite observation, that knowledge is the food of the mind ; and if this be so, then certainly that ought to have the preference, Avhich is at once equally nutritive and pleasant. On this account, books of voyages and travels have been in such general esteem, and at the same time have been commended by persons of the greatest sagacity, and in the highest reputation for superior understanding. The pleasantness of this kind of reading has attracted many, Avho had before no relish for learning, and brought them by degrees to enter upon severer enquiries,in order more effectually to gratify that curiosity which this kind of study naturally e.xcites. Men of higher abilities have turned their thoughts on this subject, from the consideration of its real utility.

This induced the ingenious Hakluyt to make that noble collection, which procured him the patronage of queen Elizabeth's ablest minister. This led the elder Thevenot, to enrich the French language with a very copious collection ofthe same kind. And, not to multiply examples, this made Aroyages and tra vels the favourite study of the judicious Locke, who looked upon it as the best method of acquiring those useful and practical lights, that serve most effectually to strengthen and also to enlarge the human understanding. a 3 It VI

PREFACE.

. It is indeed true, that in respect to this, as well as other branches of science, there have been many pro ductions, which for a time were applauded andadmired, and which, notAvithstanding, have served rather to mislead, than to instruct men's minds, by a display of specious falsehoods, highly acceptable to such as read merely for amusement. But these authors of mar- A-ellous, and very often incredible relations ; of strange and surprizing adventures ; these pompous describers of Avonderful curiosities, which men of more penetration, but of sounder judgements, could never afterwards, though pursuing the same routes Avith their utmost diligence, discover ; quickly lost that credit, Avhich novelty alone gave them ; and, being once exploded by sensible judges, gradually sunk, iirst into the contempt, and then into the oblivion, they deserved.

These books, however, are thus far useful, that they serve to give us a clearer idea of our Avants, and a more just notion, than perhaps we could otherwise obtain, of the qualities requisite to render voyages and travels truly Avorthy of esteem. They demonstrate very fully, that, in the first place, it is of great con sequence, to knoAV the characters of the authors Ave peruse, that Ave may judge of the credit that is due to their reports; and this as Avell in point of abilities, as of veracity ; for many writers impose on the Avorld, not through any evil intention of deceiving others, but because they have been deceived themselves. They relate falsehoods, but they believe them : Ave cannot therefore justly accuse them of want of candour; the fault properly to be laid to their charge, is cre dulity.

We are most in danger of suffering by those authors, who have either lived in, or passed through countries, that are rarely visited, and into which few are permitted to come. This protects their mistakes for PEEFACE. VII for a great length of time ; and we knoAV that pre s ription is a fortress in which error often holds out a long siege. There cannot therefore be a more acceptable tribute offered to the republic of letters, than voyages or travels, composed by persons of es tablished reputation for learning, and in equal esteem for their probity. But the value of the present is much enhanced, if these voyages or travels respect countries little known, the coasts of which only, perhaps, have been accidentally visited by seamen, or harassed aud plundered by privateers, persons often of suspected faith, and almost always of very limited capacities.

Some few exceptions indeed there may be to this general rule ; but even in regard to these, there Avill be necessarily great defects ; and allowing them their highest merit, they can only report truly the lit tle they have seen : and what idea can Ave form of a Turkey carpet, if we look only at the border, or, it may be, at the selvage ? The authors, whose writings are now offered to the public in an English dress,are men ofthe most respect able chaiacters, men distinguished for their parts and learning, and yet more for their candour and integri ty : men who did not travel through accident, but by choice ; and this not barely their own, but ap proved by authority, and approved because they Avere known to be equal to the task they undertook ; and that task was, the examining every thing they Avent to see, with all possible care and scrupulous attention, in order to furnish the public Avith such lights as might be entirely and safely depended on.

This was the design which they undertook : this design they executed with the circumspection it deserved; and the punctuality Avith Avhich they discharged it, has procured them the just returns of favour from their royal master, and the applause and approbation of a 4 the

PREFACE.

. VIII the best judges in their OAvn and other countries. These are circumstances that distinguish, in a very singular degree, the folloAving Avork ; circumstances that, no doubt, AVill have their proper Aveight, and which it Avould be entirely needless for us to enforce, though it would have been inexcusable not to have mentioned them. There is hoAvever one other circumstance that de serves particular notice, Avhich is, that, Avith respect to the characters and abilities of thesegentlemen, all does not rest either upon their writings or foreign autho rities : they have been in this country ; Avere seen and known by those Avho were best able to judge of their merit ; and, in consequence of that, are both of them members of our royal society. They continued here some time, conversed indifferently with all sorts of people, and were unanimously allowed to have A'eiy extensive vieAvs in respect to science ; great sagacity; much application ; were very assiduous and very accu rate in their enquiries, as well as candid and commu nicative in relatioitto thediscoveriesand observations Which they had made in their travels. — Men of such talents, and such dispositions, must render themselves agreeable every where; much more in a country of liberty, and where, without partiality, we may have leave to say, the sciences are as deeply rooted, and flourish in as high a degree, as in any other in Europe.

We Avill add, that, from a knowledge of their merit and candour, they not only received the greatest civilities, but the most seasonable protection, to which, insome measure, the world is indebted for this very perform ance, as the reader will learn in the perusal of it; accompanied with those marks of gratitude and respect, .which were due to their kind benefactors, more espe cially the late worthy president ofthe royal society, Avhose memory is justly dear toall who had the honour of

PREFACE.

. IX of being in the least acquainted with him*; and that humane and polite patron of every useful branch of li terature, Earl Stanhope ; whose noble qualities reflect honour on his titles, and avIio inherits the virtues of his illustrious father, one of the bravest men, and one of the most disinterested ministers, this nation could ever boast. After doingjustice to the authors, let us come to the Avork itself. In pieces of this kind, there is, generally speaking, no part so tedious and unpleasant, at least to the generality of readers, as Avhat regards oc currences at sea; and yet these are allowed to have their utility. In the following sheets, hoAvever, though they are found pretty copiously, Ave shall see them Avithout those defects. If these writers mention the A'ariation of the compass, they explain the nature, en quire into the cause, and shew the uses that arise from observing this phænomenon.

In this manner, they treat of calms, winds, currents, and other incidents, in so succinct and scientific a method, as at the same time to be very instructive, and not unentertaining. In this respect, we may look upon their narratives as a sort of practical introduction to the art of navigation, which we not only read without disgust, but which, AA'hen read with any tolerable attention, Avill enable us to understand many passages in other Avriters of voya ges, which Ave should otherwise pass over, as utterly uninteresting and unintelligible. This observation, the reader will find so fully verified-, from his own experience, that, I am confident, he will think it no small recommendation to the book ; and the more so, because, though very necessary, and much wanted, * Martin Folkes, Esq. ; a gentleman not more conspicuous from bis extensive knowledge, than amiable for the politeness of his man ners, and respectable for his excellent private character. 2 the X Preface. the difficulties attending it had hitherto, in a great measure, discouraged any such attempt.

The geographical descriptions Ave have of the country about Carthagena, the isthmus of Darien, the Terra Firma, the countries of Peru and Chili, those Avatered by the vast river of the Amazons, and, in a word, of the greatest part of South America, are not only perfectly accurate, very methodical, and, in all respects, full, clear, and satisfactory; butalsowhat we greatly Avanted, and Avhat avc never had, at least in any comparison with what Ave now have, before this Avork appeared. These are countries that, from the time of their discovery, have maintained the reputation of being as pleasant, as fertile, and as valuable, as any upon the globe. But though Ave knew this in general, and, from the Spanish descriptions and histories, were not altogether unacquainted with many particulars relating to them ; yet with respect to any distinct and precise delineation of their several provinces, their divisions and subdivisions, the distribution of mountains, rivers, plains, and other circumstances, with their relations to each other, and comparative values in all respects, they were things not barely unknown, but such as Ave could never expect to know, from the nature of the Spanish government, with any degree of certainty.

But by the accident of these gentlemen going thither, with no other view than the improvement of knowledge, pursuing that view with the most lively zeal and assiduous application, and founding their reputation upon a plain and candid communication of all that knowledge, Avhich, with so much pains and labour, they had acquired ; Ave have now as clear, concise, and correct a representation of these extensive regions, as we can possibly desire: such a one, as will answer all the ends of information and instruction, enable

PREFACE.

. XI enable us to discover the errors and partialities in former accounts, and prevent our being amused or misled by any erroneous relations for the future ; which are certainly circumstances of very great con sequence. The natural history of these countries will be like wise found in the following sheets, in a manner no less perfect and pleasing. These gentlemen went about it in a proper method, and with the talents requisite to the complete accomplishment of theirdesign. They saw things with their oavii eyes, they enquired carefully, but they took nothing on trust : on the contra ry, they discovered, and they have disclosed, many er rors of an old standing ; exploded various common notions that were ill founded, and have left others in the state in which they ought to be left, as things not thoroughly proved, or absolutely disproved; but Avhich are reserved for further examination.

It is chiefly from the natural history, that Ave collect the value and importance of any country, because from thence we learn its produce of every kind. In these sheets we find the greatest care taken in this particular; all the riches of the mineral, vegetable, and ani mal kingdoms exhibited to our view, their places exactly assigned, their respective natures described, the methods of using, improving, and manufacturing them, pointed out ; and, exclusive of a multitude of vulgar errors exposed, and mistaken notions refuted, an infinity of new, curious, and important remarks are made, all tending to explain and illustrate the re spective subjects. Of these many instances might be giAren ; but that Avould be to anticipate the reader's pleasure, and arrogate to ourselves the merits of the authors we celebrate. In-

PREFACE.

. XII In respect to the civil history, the world in general was yet more in the dark, than as to the natural ; knowing much less of the inhabitants than of the commodities of these countries ; and in this respect, our authors have been as candid, as circumstantial, and as copious, as in the other. They not only acquaint us with the distribution and disposition of theSpanish governments; Avith the nature, extent, andsubordination of those who preside in them ; but have also given us a regular plan of their administration, and of the order and method in which justice is dispensed, and the civil policy maintained; the domestic œconomy of the Spaniards, their customs, manner of living, their way of treating the Indians, both subjects and savages, are stated with the same freedom and precision.

In like manner they give us a succinct account ofthe Creoles that is, such as are descended from the Spaniards, and have been longer or later settled in the Indies, with Avhatever is peculiar in respect to the genius, humour, virtues, and vices of these people; and more especially the points in Avhich they differ from the native Spaniards. The state and condition of the Indians who live in subjection to the Spaniards, their tempers, employments, good and ill qualities, labours and diversions. The habitations of the free Indians, their customs, dress, manner of spending their lives, exercises, talents, religion, and method of preserving the remembrance of past transactions, as also the condition of the Negroes and Mulattoes, whether in the capacity of slaves, domestic servants, or in possession of their freedom, Avith whatever differences occur in the state of any of these people in different provinces. But to the English reader, perhaps, nothing in the following pages will be more acceptable, as indeed nothing

PREFACE.

. XIII nothing seems to have been more carefully considered by the authors, than the commercial history of these countries. We find here, not only the principal commodities of every province distinctly enume rated ; but Ave are also informed of the particular places Avhere they grow, their different qualities and degrees in value, the method of collecting and curing most part of them, the manufactures of cotton, a\'oo1, and other materials, the produce of their mines and different kinds of metal, their pot teries, and Avhatever else is the object of industry and skill: The manner of conveying them from one province to another, the great roads, the inland and coasting navigation, their commerce with Spain, their contraband trade, the manner of introducing, and the great consumption, of European commodities and manufactures, the advantages and Dis advantages attending their present regulations, the discoveries that are yet to be made, and the im provements Avhich may still take place in the ma nagement of affairs in those countries : The singular inventions of the natives for passing great rivers, transporting their goods by the help of vessels of their own construction, iheir adroitness in some respects, and their stupidity in others. — From the due consideration of this part of the work, the reader Avill perceive, that in many things we have been im posed upon, informer accounts ; and thatothei things, in a long course of years, are very much changed from what they Avere.

But instead of old errors, we shall find many new truths, and some established from example and experience, that are of too great con sequence not to be frequently remembered, and perfectly understood : Such as, that countries arc not the better, and, Avhich is still stranger, are not the richer, for producing immense quantities of gold and silver; siuce this prevents their being cultivated,

PREFACE.

. tivated, exposes the natives to pass their lives in the severest drudgery, and, after all, makes the digging of metal from the mine little more than drawing water in a sieve; since, in such countries, riches disappear almost as soon as they are revealed. Industry alone, in the old world, and in the new, has the power of acquiring and preserving Avealth, and this too without the trouble of mining. Besides, though not insisted upon, it Avill be evidently seen, that severity in government, and superstition in re ligion, subvert both liberty and morals, and are con sequently in all respects destructive of the happiness of mankind. The account given by our authors, of the missions which the Jesuits have established in Paraguay, is as interesting as it is entertaining ; and may be very justly considered as one of the most curious and best written parts of the whole performance ; since, at the same time that it breathes all the deference and respect possible for the fathers, it informs us of a great variety of facts of so much the more conse quence, as, at the time itAvas written, nobody could foresee that the courts of Madrid and Lisbon Avould make so thorough a change as they have done in their sentiments in regard to this order; and there fore the informations these gentlemen give us, are the more to be relied on.

They shew us in Avhat manner, and under what specious pretences, the Jesuits acquired a kind of independent possession of so large a tract of country, and, except their annual tribute, an almost absolute dominion over an immense number of people. They acquaint us, that there is a civil government in every village, after the model of the Spanish tOAvns ; but the magis trates are chosen by the people, subject only to the approbation of the father Jesuit, avIio resides in, and, FRFFACE. XV and, in reality, governs the village. We learn from them, that the Jesuits draAV from the people all the commodities and manufactures that are fit for foreign commerce, which are vended by a commissary of their appointing, and the returns in European com modities made to and distributed by them at their pleasure ; they tell us, that the church in every village is spacious, and elegantly adorned ; that, though they are styled villages, they are in effect large tOAvns, and the houses in them neat, commo dious, and, in comparison of the Spaniards', very well furnished.

We learn from them, that, under a pretence of the excursions of the Portuguese, Avho used to seize these Indians and make them Avork in the mines, and of the saArage Indians Avho sur rounded them in a manner on all sides, the fathers have taught tr>em the use of arms, make them spend their holidays in military exercises, have a large body of well-disciplined troops, magazines Aveli furnished Avith military stores, together with mills and other necessary machines for making their oavii gunpowder. They likewise let us know, that, to prevent the manners of their disciples from being corrupted, the Jesuits exclude them entirely from all communication Avith strangers, whether Europeans or Indians, and suffer none to enter into their mis sions, who may report either the strength or the Aveakness of their condition, or penetrate into the mysteries of their policy.

Another point worthy of notice is, the account of the little island of Fernando de Norona. This, so inconsiderable in itself so unfit for habitation, from its being sometimes three or four years without rain, Avas abandoned b}- the Portuguese ; yet, being within sixty or seventy leagues of the coast of Brazil, Avas occupied by the French East-India company; which induced

PREFACE.

. induced its former masters to repossess it, and to for tify it likewise, notwithstanding the aforementioned inconvenience. The building here no less than seven forts, to cover and command three harbours, in the largest of which there is a garrison of a thousand re gular troops, relieved constantly once in six months from Fernambuca, plainly proA-es, that either the force of the Portuguese is much greater in those parts than we commonly apprehend in Europe : or, Avhich is more probably the truth, that they are to the last degree jealous and suspicious of that enterprizing nation, Avho, in virtue of the great laAV of conveni ence, are for appropriating to their oAvn use Avhat ever they find themselves in a condition to seize and to secure. This gives us the true cause of that surprize and uneasiness Avhich the Portuguese, during the last Avar, expressed, when a French squadron, with a body of land-troops on board, intended against our settle ments in the East Indies, touched there, on account of an epidemic disease among their troops ; which, it seems, the Portuguese mistook for the epidemic thirst of gold; and Avere so apprehensiA-e of their making a visit to their mines, that though they could not Avell refuse them relief in their distress, yet they took almost the same precautions as if declared enemies had landed in their countiy.

Another point of great utility, that Avill result from the perusal of this A\rork, is tjie obtaining a clear and candid account of the flourishinostate of the French colonies in St. Domingo; which, considering that the gentleman from Avhom we have it is a Spa niard, and consequently unexceptionable in his tes timony, Avill suffice to give us a just idea of the pro digious advantages derived to France from their colours in that island. He observes, with great fair ness and freedom, that the French are well entitled to the P-REFACE. XVII the riches they acquire, from their industry and economy, since, though they occupy the Avorst part of the island, they are, out of all comparison, in a better condition than the Spanish inhabitants, Avho possess the better and more fertile part. He takes notice likeAvise, that though all correspondence betAveen the tAvo nations is forbidden under the severest penalties, it is notwithstanding open almost in the same degree as if there Avas no such prohibition ; the reason is, because the French could scarce subsist, if they were not supplied with cattle from the Spaniards ; and, on the other hand, the Spaniards must go naked, if they did not, by this means, obtain European commodities from the French ; so idle a thing it is to think of making a law against necessity !

By the balance of this trade the French acquire annually about two millions of pieces of eight, which returns in hard silver, with sugar, indigo, and the other commodities of the growth of their part of the island, Avhich is admirably cultivated, to the ports of Fiance; and is a very considerable addition to the value of their otherwise rich cargoes. But the Portuguese and French are not the only strangers into who? Q circumstances, and management of affairs in America, our authors have enquired; the reader will find they took no less pains to make themselves well acquainted with the proceedings of the English. We have not only a full and distinct account of the taking of Louisbourg, and of the conquest of the island of Cape Breton in the war befora the last ; but Ave baAre aiso a very copious memorial, drawn from the papers of the marquis de la Maison Forte, of the colony of New England, which he had an opportunity of framing while he remained a pri soner at Boston. It would have been the more satis factory if we had had the whole of his memoirs; for Vol. I. b there

PREFACE.

. there is great reason to judge, from this specimen, that he must have made much deeper researches than he communicated to his Spanish friend, or, at least, than he judged expedient to communicate to the world ; otherwise it is very hard to conceive upon what he grounded his notion, that, in the space of a century, the people of NeAv, Avould be as numerous as those in Old England, and in a condition to give laAv to all the nations in North America. We have, besides, some very sensible remarks upon the cod fishery, and the advantages arising from it, as Avell as our disputes with the French in that part of the world. These speculations, though not always cri tically right, deserve our notice, and even our strict est attention. For, however Ave may be at liberty to conduct our own affairs, Ave cannot limit the hu mour, or controul the politics, of our neighbours ; and therefore it is of great service, to be Avell acquainted with their notions.

The great importance of this subject might have been, and certainly Avas, discovered long ago, by our politicians of the first order ; but it is now become apparent to all ranks of people, and, if the expression may be alloAved, from being the object sometimes of discussions in the cabinet, is at present become the topic of vul gar politicians. Besides those that have been already touched, there are a great variety of curious, instructive, and pleasing incidents, in this performance, that cannot fail of giving satisfaction to the ingenious and in telligent reader: Such as the discussing the causes, why it never rains naturally at Lima, or the country of Valles in Peru; the enquiries into the frequency of volcanoes in South America; the materials, if we may so speak, of those subterraneous fires, the accidents by which they are kindled, and the conse- 2 sequences

PREFACE.

. XIX quences of their explosions ; the author's sentiments as to earthquakes, their extent and direction, the circumstances preceding and attending them, and their different effects in different places. The value of this Fifth Edition is very much enhanced, by a number of curious, instructive, and explanatory Notes. These cannot fail of giving great satisfaction to the reader, as they serve to rectify some mistakes, and to set a variety of passages in a clearer light, from the Avriter's thorough acquaintance with the subjects treated in these voyages. He has also given a v-ery accurate account of those parts of Brazil least known to us; and which may be therefore separated as a useful, as well as proper, supplement; and render the Avork, taken altogether, as complete as even a critical reader can desire. be CON- CONTENTS OT VOLUME THE FIRST.

Book I. Chap

PACE I. l^sOTIVES for this voyqgc; design of measuring •*■'-*■ several degrees of the meridian near the equator. Departure from Cadiz. - II. Arrival at Carthagena, Description, situation, and riches of that city. - III. Description of Carthagena Hay. IV. Of the inhabitants of Carthagena. V. Ofthe climate. Diseases incident to natives and fo- 1 19 26 29 lk] retgners. - VI. Description ofthe country, and ofthe trees and plants in the neighbourhood of Carthagena. VII. Ofthe beasts, birds, reptiles, and insects in the territories of Carthagena. - VIII. Of the esculent vegetables ; and food of the inhabitants of Carthagena. ... IX- Qfthe trade of Carthagena, and other countries of America, on the arrival of Galleons, fye. 48 5« 60 79

Book II

I. Departure for Porto Bello. General winds and currents between Carthagena and Porto Bello. - 85 II. Description of the tow?n of St. Philip de Parto Bello. 88 III. Description of Porto Bello harbour - - 91 IV. Of the climate. Distempers which prove fatal to the crews of the Galleons. - - - 93 V. Of the inhabitants, plants, trees, and animals about Porto Bello. - - - - 9& VI. Of the trade of Porto Bello. - -103 X>_ BOOK CONTENTS. XXII

Book III. Page Chap

I. Voyage up the Chagre, and journey from Cruces to Panama by land. - - " - 10/ II. Description of the city of Panama. - - 113 III. Ofthe climate and inhabitants of Panama. Fruits produced in the neighbouring country. - - 120 IV. Of the usual food of the inhabitants, with other observations. - 1-3 V. Of the trade and commerce of Panama. - - 136 VI. Extent of the audience of Panama, in the kingdom of Terra Firma. Limits of that kingdom, and the provinces which compose it. - - , - 132