The Pyrenees, west and east

Front matter

THE PYRENEES. LONDON PRINTED EX SPOTTISWOODE AND CO. NEW-STREET SQTJAEE TARASCON. THE PYKENEES WEST AND EAST. BY CHAELES EICHAED WELD AUTHOR OF "A VACATION TOTJB IN THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA" "VACATIONS IN IRELAND" ETC. " Let us go forth in summer's glorious prime. And leave the din of cities for a while ; See that fair land where Nature's robes are steep'd In brightest hues ; and from the breezy heights Of Pyrenean pinnacles, behold Deep vales and forests, purple glens, and plains." Anon. LONDON LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, LONGMANS, & ROBERTS TO MES. ALFEED TENNYSON STbis fnUtnu is afffttionatilg gnstribjb BT HEB BEOTHEE-IN-LAW CHARLES RICHARD WELD, Burlington House, May 1859. A CONTENTS.

Chapter I

The Start. — Rouen. — An Imperial Progress Le Bourdon. Chartres The Cathedral. — Notre Dame du Visage Noir. — Virgin Worship. — The Crypt. — The Bishop's Garden. — Porte Guillaume.— Toury.— Orleans. — The Chef de Police. — Down the Loire. — Sand Banks. — Tours. — A Fille's Complaint. — Tufa Cliffs. — Pont Boulet. — Aground. — Saumur. — Ecole de Cavalerie. — Dolmen of Bagneux. — Druidical Remains. Page 1

Chapter II

Poitiers. — St. Radegonde — Her History. — Angouleme. — Limousin. — Chestnut Forests. — The Limousin Peasants. — Marguerite de Valois. — Blaye. — Up the Gironde. — Market Women. — Great Abundance of Fruit. — Approach to Bordeaux. — Hotel Touters. — Chiret Cellars. — Curious Fungi. — Inauguration of the New Water Works Religious Ceremony. — Old Bordeaux 15

Chapter III

Leave Bordeaux. — The Railway across the Landes Nature of these Wastes. — Landais Proverb. — Landais Shepherds. — Attempt to reclaim the Landes. —Imperial Patronage. — La Teste A CONTENTS. dc Buch. — Pine Forest. — Arcachon. — Great Lagune. — Pecu liarities of Arcachon. — Hotel des Empereurs. — Bathing. — The Great Pine Forest. — Resiniers. — Products of the Pines. — Horses of the Landes. — Excursion to the Pointe du Sud In sect Life in the Forest. — Cicadas — Their curious Structure. — Advantages of Arcachon Page 29

Chapter IV

To Bayonne. — The Pyrenees. — Cork-trees. — Bayonne. — Huge Omnibus. — Passports. — A Clerk in Distress. — Biaritz. — The Bay of Biscay. — Villa Eugenie. — The Empress. — The Promenade. — Fashionable Parisiennes. — Fast Ladies. — Patches, and Patching. — Social Life in England and France. — The Imperial Prince. — Publicity of Bi.iritz. — Evening Amusements. — The Cliffs of Biaritz 45

Chapter V

Bayonne. — Its Advantages. — Commerce. — The Adorn. — The Fortifications. — Vauban's Citadel. — Siege of Bayonne. — The Bayonet. — Warlike Preparations. — The Basques. — Abundance of Fruit. — Bull Fights. — Disgusting Scene. — Spanish Merchants. — The Place de Grammont. — Dax. — Curious Mistake. — A Travelling Acquaintance. — Guide through Dax. — The Amphitheatre. — Boiling Cauldron. — Mud Baths. — Antiquities. — To Orthez. — Luxuriant Vegetation. — Pyrenean Range. — Froissart. — La Belle Hotesse. — Gaston, Count de Foix. — Castle of Moncade. — Festive Scene The Stalwart Knight A Tragical Story. — Peter Ernault 59

Chapter VI

From Orthez to Pau Physical Sketch of the Pyrenees. — Their Extent. — Carriage Roads. — Ports Height of Line of Congelation. — Glaciers. — Cirques. — Oules. — Geology of the Pyrenees. — Primary and Secondary Formations. — Minerals CONTENTS. IX Iron Mines. — Zinc. — Calamine. — Salt Mine. — Elevation Theory. — Fossil Shells. — Dislocations. — Thermal Springs — Their Localities. — Granitic Formation. — Hot Springs of Aix. — Effects of Earthquakes. — Experiments on Springs — Their Temperature. — Valleys. — Forests. — Plants. — Animal Life. — Bears. — Izzards. — Inhabitants of the Pyrenees. — Basques. — Bearnais. — Roussillonais. — Vascons. — Cagots — Their probable Origin — Aversion to them — Manner in which they were proscribed. — Descendants of Cagots .... Page 76 CHAPTER VH. Pau. — Ancient Beam. — The modern Town. — Bernadotte. — Henri IV. — The Castle of Pau.— Statue of Henri. — Views from the Terrace Pau as a Residence. — -Val d'Ossau. — The Gave de Gabas. — The Pyrenean Streams. — Eaux-Bonnes. — Hotel Touters. — Les Cascades. — Le Valentin. — Pic de Ger. — Beech Forests. — The Table d'Hote. — A strange Character. — How to make Verses. — The Water-drinkers. — The Springs — Their Fashion. — Eaux d'Arquebusades. — Riding in the Pyrenees. — Equestrianism and Pedestrianism — Their relative Advantages. — Hints to Tourists. — Les Eaux Chaudes. — Meteorological Influences The Gave d'Oleron. — Pic du Midi d'Ossau. — The Thermal Springs. — Mademoiselle de la Fosseuse. — The Bears of former Days. — Le Pont d'Enfer. — Goust. — Gabas. — Plateau of Bioux Artiques . 100

Chapter VIII

To Cauterets. — Lestelle. — Valley of Lourdes. — Miraculous Image. — St. Betheran. — A Confirmation. — Goitres. — Les Hautes Pyrenees. — St. Pe. — Castle of Lourdes. — Valley of Argelez. — Monastery of St. Savin. — Pierrefitte. — Pic du Midi de Viscos.— Romantic Defile. — Cauterets. — The Springs. — Motley Company. — Invalids. — La Raillere. — Temperature of the Water. — Source des Œufs. — The Cesar Spring.— Bear Baiting. — Lady Equestrians. — The Val Latour. — Pyrenean Dogs. — Sketching Subjects. — Cascades. — Pine Forests. — Pont d'Espagne. — Waterfalls. — Lac de Gaube.— The Vignemale. — The Lake Trout . . .117 X CONTENTS.

Chapter IX

Cauterets as a Residence. — Bath Charges. — To Luz. — An ancient Postilion.— Old Coryat. — Gorge of Luz.— Pont d'Enfer.— Hotel des Pyrenees. —Luz. —The Three Valleys. — Pig Washing. — Carious Population Registers. — Peculiar Costume. — The Loup- Garou. — Strange Superstitions. — A Race of Giants.— -Charter of Bigorre. — St. Marie. — Templar Church. — The Cagot's Door Page 133

Chapter X

St. Sauveur. — Val Bastan. — Geology of St. Sauveur. — The Thermal Springs. — Fashionable Invalids. — Valley of Luz. — Picturesque Flocks. — Ascent ofthe Pic de Bergons. — Extensive Panorama. — A Herdsman's Life. — Rude Agriculture. — Bears. — Lynxes. — Criminal Statistics of the Pyrenees 146

Chapter XI

Parisian Tourists — Their Want of Enterprise. — Start for the Breche de Roland. — Tradition respecting this Locality. — The Gorge of Gavarnie. — L'Echelle. — Val d'Heas. — The Virgin again. —The Lady of Heas. — Gedre. — Picturesque Mills. — Gavarnie. — The Cirque. —Lofty Wuterfall. — The Cylindre. — Remarkable Earthquake. — Cirque de Tremouse. — The Ascent of the Cirque. — Herds of Izzards.— Snow Fields. — Glaciers. — A Slip. — Snow-fall. — Lid de Vent. — Reach the Breche. — Wild Scene. — The Plains of Arragon.— The Fausse Breche. — The Marbore. — Gigantic Towers. — A Welcome Repast. — Geology ofthe Breche. — The Descent. — Templar's Church at Gavarnie. — The Ride Home. — A Devil among the Mules. — Accident to my Guide .... 158

Chapter XII

Wild Dreamland. — The Gave de Bastan. — Box-trees. — Uses of the Box in the Pyrenees — Its supposed Virtues. — Topiary Work. — Verdant Sculpture. — Bareges. — Repulsive Invalids. — Temporary Houses. — Geology of Bareges. — Packing-up Houses. —Tho Springs — Their Speciality. — Nauseous Water. — Analysis CONTENTS. XI of the Bareges Water. — Baregine How to economise Water. — Military Hospital. — Tariff of the Baths. — Frightful Diseases. — The Due de Maine. — Madame de Maintenon. — Clamorous Men dicants. — Wild Mountain Land Val de Lientz. — Extensive Communes. — Curious Communal Ceremony. — Val d'Escoubous. — The Neouvielle Mountain. — Stupendous Amphitheatre. — Golden Tradition. — Curious Acoustical Effects. — Noises among Mountains. — Humboldt's Theory Remarkable Sounds. — Return to Luz Page 180

Chapter XIII

Froissart's Bagneres de Bigorre. — Modern Bagneres. — Liberty in France. — The Thermal Springs. — Vicus Aquensis. — Cæsar's Temple. — Roman Mural Tablets. — Properties of the Waters Situation of Bagneres. — Geological Features. — Earthquakes. — Temperature of the Springs Tariff of the Baths. — Ferruginous Spring. — Fashionable Costume. — Peasants' Ball. — Bearnais Ballads. — An Itinerant Pyrotechnist. — Quack Doctors. — Dentist from Paris. — Deluded Peasants Val Campan. — Val d'Esponne. — Pic de Montaigu. — Grand Scenery. — Village of Esponne. — Wedding Festivities. — Ancient Marriage Customs. — Curious Courtship. — Nuptial Chants. — Strange Superstition . . 202

Chapter XIV

The Palombiere. — French Tourists. — A remarkable Man. — French Writers and English Tourists. — A Family Picture. — Description of the Palombiere. — The " Trepied." — Practice versus Theory. — The Crow's Nest Migratory Birds. — The Columba Palumbis, The Wood Pigeon. — Rapid Incubation. — Domestic Pigeons — Their Animal Economy. ■ — Pigeon's Curd. — The Carrier Pigeon. — How the Pigeons are caught. — Produce of the Palombiere. — Value of the Pigeons 220

Chapter XV

Advantages of Bagneres de Bigorre. — Across the Mountains to Luchon. — Aste. — Pitton de Tournefort. — Perils of a Botanist. — CONTENTS. The Quarries of Espiadet. — St. Marie.— Hackling Flax. — Large Boulder. — Palliole. — Dense Pine Forest.— Lichens.— Hourquette d'Aspin. — Magnificent Prospect. — Complicated Zigzags. — Wood Avalanches. — Large Flocks of Sheep. — Shepherd Life. — The Val d'Aure. — Sarrat de la Croix. — A disappointing Hotel. — Spanish Muleteers. — Oily Food. — The Templars. — The Counts d'Armagnac— JeanV. — Vielle. — Caudeat. — Tramesaigues. — The Mountains of Azet and Arbizan. — A primitive Tavern. — Drinking from a Goat-skin. — Izzard Hunter. — The Izzard of Hotels. — Habits of Izzards Page 231

Chapter XVI

Insect Phlebotomy Curran and the Fleas. — A Change in the Weather. ■ — Val Louron. — Colour in the Pyrenees. — Avejan. — Sources of the Garonne. — Pic de Genos. — Val Gistau. — Pont de la Pez.— Loudervielle. — Val d'Asto. — A Mountain Storm. — Lac Seculejo. — A Wild Scene. — St. Aventin.- — Lose the Way. — A fortunate Meeting. — A Mountain Priest. — Cazeau. — Luchon. — The Landlord's Clothes. — Abusive Frenchmen . . . 249 CHAPTER XVU. Parisian Society in the Pyrenees. — Whip-cracking. — The Baths of Luchon. — The Allee des Bains. — Price of the Baths. — The Thermal Springs — Their Geological Features — Temperature. — Remarkable Changes in the Springs. — The Romans at Luchon. — Lapidaiy Inscriptions. — The God Lixon. — Features of Luchon. — Bazaars. — Lotteries. — An Ill-mated Couple. — Spanish Minstrels. — Excursion to the Port de Venasque. — Val de Lys Castel Vielh. — Pic de la Pique. — Lizards. — The Hospice. — A provideut Guide. — Mountain Mists. — Pic de Picade. — Natural Stairs. — The Tinkers' Grave. — The Man Rock.— The Four Lakes. — Ice Islands. — The Port.— The Maladetta.— The First Ascent— Pic de Nethou. — Trou de Toro. — Port de Picade. — Flora of the Port. — Pic de Picade. — The Vulture of the Pyrenees. A Mining Speculator.— The Marquis of Rhodes.— The Bears of Venasque. — Ossiferous Caves. — Cloud Scapes CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter XVIII

Luchon to Toulouse. — St. Gaudens. — Ancient Church. — Legend of St. Gandens. — The Plain of Languedoc. — A Gastronome. — Old Toulouse. — The Market-place. — Truffles. — St. Sernin. — St. Etienne. — Peculiar Architecture. — Cuffing a Jew Museum of Antiquities. — Exquisite Cloisters . . . Page 287

Chapter XIX

Place du Capitole Le Capitole. — Worthies of Toulouse. — La Societe des Jeux Floraux. — College de la Gaie Science. — Constitution of the College. — PierreVidal. — Quixotic Love. — Clemeuce Isaure — Her Endowment of the College. — Annual Distribution of the Floral Prizes. — Convent of the Inquisition. — The Albigenses. — Autos da Fe. — Spirit of Intolerance. — Revival of the belief in the Guilt of Jean Calas. — Persecution of Protestantism in France 297

Chapter XX

Tremendous Thunder-storm. — Effect of the Lightning. — A Plague of Insects. — Journey to Foix. — -A quarrelsome Officer. — Foix. — Picturesque View. — The Eastern Pyrenees. — Department of Arriege. — Auriferous Deposits. — Rough Companions. — Sketching made easy. — A courteous Girl. — A Fairy Dwelling. — The Castle of Foix. — The Counts of Foix. — Gaston Phoebus. — A mighty Hunter. — Femmes Assises. — Quaint Houses. — Ussat. — Extortionate Landlord. — The Thermal Springs. — The Val d'TJssat. — Tarascon. — Vast Caves. — Mont Soudoure St. Barth _ lemy. 312

Chapter XXI

Excursion to the Val Vicdessos. — Donkey Riding. — Catching a Horse. — St. Eloi. — Miglos. — Val Siguer. — Mining Population. — Vicdessos. — Dolmen. — Mont Calm. — Sem. — Entrance to the Iron Mines. — Tortuous Passages. — Large Chambers. — Unskilful Mode of Working. — The Rancie Mines. — Excellence of the Ore. — Mining Regulations. — The Jurats. — Mode of Smelting. — Catalan Furnaces. — Profits of the Mines. — Return to Ussat CONTENTS.

Chapter XXII

Leave Ussat. — Cabannes.— Castle of Lordat. — Ax. — Remarkable Springs. — Geology of Ax. — The Leper's Bath. — Parboiling Fowl. — Official Medical Report of Ax, — The Visitors. — Rough Company. — Game. — Charming Scenery. — The Mantis. — Fashionable Promenade. — Engage a Muleteer. — Theatrical Performance ....'.... Page 330

CHAPTER XXIIL

Across the Mountains. — Spanish Muleteers. — Royal Mules. — Mont de Mure. — Grand Mountains. — The Col de Merens. — Savage Scenery. — Merens. — Passport Difficulties. — An enraged Belgian. — Under Arrest. — A Friend in Need. — Liberated. — Hospitalet. — Night-quarters. — Economical Soup. — A Skin of Wine. — How to make a Fortune in the Eastern Pyrenees . 338

Chapter XXIV

An early Start. — Port de Puy Maurins. — Val d'Andorre. — Val Carol. — Charlemagne. — Steep Descent. — Baby Rivers. — Valley of La Cerdagne. — Industrious Peasants. — Porta. — Tour de Carol. — Corbassil. — Rough Fare. — ■ Inns in the Eastern Pyrenees. - — Transformation of the Guide. — A Fete in prospect. — Enter Spain. — Spanish Officials. — Bribery and Corruption. — Moral Ophthalmia. — Approach to Puicerda Execrable Roads. — Puicerda. — The Posada. — Poor Accommodation. — Ancient Church. — The Barracks. — The Plaza. — Sketching Difficulties. — Spanish Cerdana. — Noisy Catalans. — Itinerant Minstrels 347

Chapter XXV

A wretched Night. — Leave Puicerda. — Font Romeu. — Chemin Libre. — AWater Road. — Col de la Perche. — Bonrg Madame. Llivia. — St. Santiago. — A dirty Town. — Ascent of Mont Odeillo. — Notre Dame de Font Romeu. — Legend of Notre Dame. — Pilgrims — Goigs. — Canticles. — Difficult Riding Frequent Falls. — Summit of the Mountain.— Remarkable Scene. — Interior of the Church. — The miraculous Image. — Catering for a Meal. — Dance of La Bayes. — Mont Louis. — The Cure's House. — A Mountain Fortress. — Grand Thunder-storm . CONTENTS. XV

Chapter XXVI

Down the Mountain. — Olette. — The Thermal Springs of Thuez — Their Properties. — Geological Features. — The warmest Spring in France. — Focus of Thermal Action. — Sketching Scenes. — Villefranche. — Vauban's Fortress. — Keen-eyed Sentinels. — Templars in the Eastern Pyrenees. — Ancient Cartulary. — Curious Tradition. — Roussillon. — Aromatic Herbs. — Bees. — Grapes. — The Wines of Roussillon. — Rivesaltes. — Prades. — Ancient Cloisters. — Thermal Springs. — Excursion to Vernet. — Corneilla The Mercadere Establishment. — Casteill. — Buttresses of the Canigou. — St. Martin's Abbey . Page 382

Chapter XXVII

Start for the Canigou. — Ride to St. Martin. — Legend of the Abbey. — Guifred, Count of Cerdagne. — The Cabanes de Cadi. — A wild Charcoal Burner. — Glorious Sunset. — A rough Lodging. — Mountain Fare. — Izzards and Wolves. — Restless Goats. — Climbing the Cone. — Ravines and Gorges. — Summit ofthe Canigou. — Geological Formation. — Val de Tech. — Prats de Mollo. — View from the Summit. — The Descent. — Return to Prades 395

Chapter XXVIII

To Perpignan. — The Farmers of Roussillon. — Ille. — Peaches. — Perpignan. — Fort Castillet. — Vauban's Works. — The Fortifications. — Cathedral of St. Jean. — Cafes. — Military Gossip. — French and English Officers. — Desire for War. — Leave Perpignan. — The Journey Home. — Conclusion . . . LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. FROM SKETCHES BY THE AUTHOR, (ENGRAVED ON wnOD BV PEARSON.) Tarascon to face Title Breche de Roland „ 175 Foix „ 316 Val d'Ussat , 320 - Ax „ 333 Olette , 383 Villefranche , 386 Buttresses of the Canigou „