Dust and Foam, or three oceans and two continents, being ten years' wanderings ... Second edition

Front matter

Port os Gufiymns.— The key to Sonora and Arizona. #- jj^b Ali ijj&Ru * • ' THKEE OCEANS1 TWO CONTINENTS. T. ROBINSON WARREN. My little Maria signalizing her consort the Caroline. NEW YORK: CHARLES SCRIBNER, 124 GRAND STREET. LONDON : SAMPSON LOW, SON & CO., 4T LUDGATE HI1L. DUST AND FOAM; OR, THREE OCEANS AND TWO CONTINENTS BEING TEN YEARS' WANDERINGS IN MEXICO, SOUTH AMERICA, SANDWICH ISLANDS, THE EAST AND WEST INDIES, CHINA, PHILIPPINES, AUSTRALIA AND POLYNESIA. BY T. KOBTTNSON . WAETREN. SECOND EDITION. NEW YORK: CHARLES SCRIBNER, 124 GRAND STREET. LONDON :' SAMPSON LOW, SON & CO., 47 Ludgate Hill. M DOOO Entehbd according to Act of Congress, in the year 1858, by CHARLES SCRIBNER, In the Clerk'B Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Southern District of New York. W. H. Tinson, Stereotyper. Geo. Russbll & Co., Printer* WHATEVER MERIT THE FOLLOWING PAGES MAY POSSESS, I RESPECTFULLY DEDICATE TO MY FATHER.

Preface

. The following pages are a compilation from desultory notes made ashore and afloat, generally under disadvan tageous circumstances. In them I pretend to no Literary merit; happy indeed will I be, if among the many tongues in which I have been in the habit of expressing my ideas during the last ten years — Spanish, French, English, Kanaka, and half a dozen other idioms com mon to the South Sea Islands — I have retained the power of even writing correctly my own native lan guage. A winter's cruising in the Gulf of Mexico, and a year in Europe, had instilled within me a strong taste for travel and nautical adventure, and I hailed with delight the opportunity offered by the California emigration for indulging in my propensities. Like the Kanaka, sporting in his native surf, I at once plunged headlong among the foaming billows of excitement, and after many a struggle, gained the out most breaker, when, poising myself upon its crest, I was burled forward with it in its mad career; now, VI

PREFACE.

wrestling in its seething foam, then drawn downward by its relentless undertow; again, gliding onward in its hghtning course, bruised amidst the coral rocks of misfortune — a friendly comber cast me at last in safety upon my native shore. Few lands have I left unvisited, few waters have I not ploughed, and consequently I think myself entitled to the traveller's privilege of telling my own story in my own way, leaving my readers to take it for what it is worth. Claiming to be no authority — nautical, historical, political or statistical — I merely give my views as based upon observation extremely superficial, and beg in the language of our South American cousins, to place my book, and my humble self, at the feet of the indulgent reader, "whose hands I kiss." CONTENTS

Chapter I. The Voyage

The author waxes eloquent upon the Discovery of Gold, and of its Effects upon the People — Is seized with the prevailing Epidemic — Is elected President of a Mining Company — Takes Ship for California — Is enthusiastic upon Things nautical — Reaches the Brazilian Coasts, and describes their magnificent Appearance 11

Chapter II. Rio Janeiro

Describes the Entrance to Rio Janeiro — Its splendid Harbor — Gives a slight Historical Sketch of it — General Description of the City, its Churches, Palaces, its Hospitals and its Villas — Touches upon Slavery and its Abuses — Gives Ideas of Catholicism as existing in Brazil, and the Depravity of its Priests — Treats of the State of Society — Gives Descriptions of the Emperor, the Empress, and of the Brazilian Court 21 CONTENTS VIII

Chapter III

st. Catharine's. The Author resigns his Presidency— Leaves his Ship and tries Steamboat Navigation — He encounters a Pampero, which he describes — The Steamer is knocked into a Cocked Hat — He gives himself up as lost, but finds he is mistaken — The Gale abates and the Steamboat puts into St. Catharines — A Description of the Harbor — The Vessel is besieged by People of all ranks, ages and sexes, who are lost in wonder at the sight of a River Steamboat in their Waters — The Maidens take forcible possession of the Saloons, converting them into Ball-rooms, and the modest young Men of Steamboats, Nolens volens, are made furiously to Polka — The Island is unanimously voted a Paradise, and the Author lays himself out in describing it — The Steamboat is pronounced by a Nautical Jury to be "a Lame Duck," and is ordered to be " Hog Braced" before again going to Sea — Six weeks are necessary for the administration of the above Swinish Tonic, prescribed by the Nautical Doctors — How the young Gentlemen manage to kill Time — Their Functions as Time-killers being performed in the most artistic manner. . . 49 CHAPTER Iv.

STRAITS OF MAGELLAN. Author leaves St. Catharines and his sweethearts behind him — Is once more upon old Ocean — Is dubious as to the Staunchness of his Conveyance — Enters the Straits of Magellan — Arrives at Port Famine — Finds no Coal — Does the necessary amount of Swearing, and then becomes resigned— He proceeds to cut Wood for Fuel, with Sailors for Axemen — It begins to Snow, and Snows for thirty Days and thirty Nights, without cessation — Makes Shooting Excursions into unexplored Bays, and slaughters unsuspicious Fowl — Becomes superstitious, sees the Devil, and hears him howl— Experiences Spasmodic Sensations CONTENTS. IX thereat, which are calmed on the idea suggesting itself, that it was only a Sea Lion — He enters the Pacific, and describes his Impressions in strains Poetic — He arrives at Valparaiso — Describes it — Dines with the Consul, and experiences his first Earthquake while at Table — Insecurity of the Harbor — Terrible Gales and Wrecks — We once more Steam along the Coast, remarking upon the Ports of Copiapo, Co quimbo, Iquique, Islay, Arica, and Pisca — Arrive at the Chincha Islands — Theory relating to the Accumulation of Guano — Balls on Shipboard — We touch at Cafiete — Are spilt in the Surf. . . 61

Chapter V. Lima

Discovery of Peru — Thrillingly romantic Scenes enacted by Christian Knights and Yuca Warriors — Final subjection of the Incas — City of Lima — Its Aspect from the Bay — Its Cathedral — Its Plaza — Its many Elements of Population — Its Manners and Customs— Society — Insecurity from Robbery — Hotels — Her Majesty's Plenipo drubbed by au American Consul — Bull-fights — Patron Saint — Departure from Lima — Sail up the Coast — Paita — Entrance to Guayaquil River — The City — The Peak of Chimborazo 92

Chapter VI. Panama

Panama — Its magnificent Bay, studded with bright Islets — Ancient Appearance of the City — Sufferings of Emigrants from Fever, Cholera, and Want — We retire to Flamingo Island, and there luxuriate on luscious Fruits — Take on board a horde of Passengers— A Description of them — Continuous Sickness of the Passengers — Steamboat converted into a gambling Hell — Burying a Man under Difficulties — Aca pulco. CONTENTS X

Chapter VII. California

We arrive at San Francisco — First Impressions — Dreadful Winter — Fires— Murders and Gambling — Leave for the Diggings — Are overtaken by a Flood at Sacramento — Funny Scenes — Leave for the Upper Country — Scare the Landlord of Nocola's Rancho — Tramp into the Interior — Remarks about that Section of Country — Go to the Southern Mines— Get Sick — Leave for Home — Take passage in the Steamer Tennessee — Pleasant Companions — Panama again — Delight of Trip across the Isthmus in the Rainy Season — Arrive in New York — Leave New York in a little Brig bound round Cape Horn — Some remarks touching the Intellectual Improvement of our Merchant Marine, mainly due to Lieut. Maury — Arrive in Mexico after a Seven Months' Voyage 138

Chapter VIII. Sonora

Guaymas — Its snug Harbor — My Uncle — Appearance of his Residence Salute his Family in Mexican style — Am installed in my new Home Go to Work — Mode of doing Business not in strict accordance with the Revenue Laws— Government badly administered — Proclivity of Mexicans to Revolution— Social System— Pretty Girls — Native Grace English Men-of-war— Balls on board— I get sick— Go to a Watering-place to recuperate — Appearance of Captain Ellis in the Schooner Alice Filibustering— Count Raouset's Expedition, his Campaign, his Defeat and Execution— General Walker— I buy a Vessel and cruise about in her CONTENTS. XI

Chapter IX. Sandwich Islands

The Author goes to the Sandwich Islands — Embarks in a small Steamboat — Narowly escapes Shipwreck — General Description of the Craft — Arrives at the Sandwich Islands — General Description — Is presented at Court — Queen not visible, very drunk — Princess Victoria, a dusky Negress, personates her Majesty — Dog Feasts — Impossible to restrain his Majesty's taste for Strong Waters — Description of Owyhee — All about the beautiful Cascade of Hailuku 236

Chapter X. Manila

Take Ship for Manila — Arrive there — Working Ship in narrow Places — First Impressions — Banca — River Passig — Hotel — Ancient Appearance of the City — Heterogeneous Masses of Population, and Peculiarities — The Chinese — Their immense Numbers — Their Industry — Their Accumulative Propensities — Natives — Their Dress and Customs — Sports — Mania for Cock-fighting — Calzada — Beautiful Drive — Grace and Beauty of Women — Lovely Music — Cigar Factories — Vast assemblage of Workwomen — Pine-apple Cloth — Remarks upon Trade, and Natural Advantages of the Island 262

Chapter XI. China

Approach to China — Junks — Pirates^ Limoon Passage — Pilot — Hong- Kong — My pecuniary Prospects — Falling into pleasant Places — Meeting an old Friend — Going up Canton River — A fast Boat— Engagement CONTENTS. XII with Pirates— Stink-pots and their Effects— Am Lucky— Take Com mand of a Vessel— Fit her out— Buy her myself— Sell Half of her— Dispatch her to Australia— Wander over China— Macao— Poet Ca moens

Chapter XII. Singapore

Leave for Singapore— China Sea— Shocking Contrast— Chinese, their Improved Condition — Assimilating to Europeans — Game of Ten-pins as played by Chinamen— London Hotel— Public Drive— The Gurries and other Equipages — Pretty Residences — Interior — Valuable Estates —Numbers of Tigers— Their fondness for Chinamen— The moving Population and its Materiel — Peninsular and Oriental Steam Service — Leave for Australia. ......... 308

Chapter XIII. Melbourne

Melbourne and its Appearance — My Impressions — Its Society — Wide Streets — Its Hotels — Beautiful Suburbs — Compared to California — Its Climate — Its Stability — I meet an old Friend — Speculation — Buy a Schooner — Trade to Otaheite — The Boomerang — Getting ready — My Crew — Description of a gang of Cut-throats — Mate Mutinies — Meets his Deserts — Delights of the Voyage. 317

Chapter XIV. Polynesia

Arrival at Otaheite — Lovely Harbor — Its general Scenery — Strange to find it in possession of red-legged Frenchmen — Beauty of the Island — Its magnificent Verdure — Picturesque Dwellings of the Natives CONTENTS. XIII — Ship a new Crew — Cruise among the Islands — Fill up with Cargo, and sail again for Australia — The Voyage — Sydney — Its Harbor — Its Elegant Buildings, public and private — Dashing Appearance of Population — Leave for Melbourne 328

Chapter XV. Voyage In South Pacific

Take Passage in a Brig — Find I am sold — Captain and all Hands get Drunk — Captain and all Hands stay Drunk — Work Ship myself — Furious Gales — Ship dismasted — Nothing to eat — General Filthiness — Touch at Pitcairn's Island — Get jammed in between the Trades and Equatorial Calms — Reach the Coast — Ninety day Passage — Wind up with a grand Shindy. 338

Chapter XVI. West Coast

The Author goes Ashore — Finances at a Low Ebb — Seeks Employment — Becomes a Night Watchman, at ten Dollars per Night and Grog — Gets Command of a Ship — Is transferred to a Steamer — Pleasant Voyages — The Surf — Is Chartered by Government — Callao — Its improved Condition — Frequent Revolutions — Presidential Candidates — the Ins and the Outs — Coolie Trade defended. . . * . . . 362

Chapter I. The Voyage

The Author waxes eloquent upon the Discovery of Gold, and of its Effects upon the People — Is seized with the prevailing Epidemic — Is elected President of a Mining Company — Takes Ship for California — Is enthusiastic upon Things nautical — Reaches the Brazilian Coasts, and describes their magnificent Appearance. Like a revelation burst upon us the news of the discovery of gold in California ; all suddenly the astounding fact was simultaneously felt throughout the length and breadth of this broad land, that in our own territory, within our very grasp, the long sought " El Dorado," in search of which thousands of lives, and countless treasures had in vain been expended, had at last been discovered, where it had lain ages upon ages, the golden har vest unheeded and ungarnered, since Nature in her throes had vomited it broadcast over valley and hill, into rivers' bottoms, and on mountains' tops.

An excitement as intense as it was violent, seized upon the whole nation, from North to South, from East to West ; like an electric shock it spread, pervading all ranks and conditions of life ; the rich saw millions added to* their hoards, the poor fancied a millenium, their wants supplied, and a life of ease in prospect. City and village alike poured forth their pilgrims to a common shrine; commerce, agriculture, and the arts were abandoned, and all eyes fixed upon the golden calf ; domestic ties were snapped asunder, husbands parted from wives, brothers from sisters, parents from children — all offering up their heart's truest and best affection on that golden altar. Hundreds of vessels crowded with living freight sailed gaily from our shores, upon a long and perilous voyage ; over the interminable western plains, caravan after caravan of hardy pioneers pushed forward, regardless alike of burning deserts, of hostile tribes and mighty rivers.

The hitherto impenetrable fastnesses of the isthmus of Pan ama resounded to the shout of the reckless emigrant, who, braving tropical suns, deadly malarias and the wild beasts of the wilderness, forced his canoe against the swift currents of swollen rivers, over shoals and rapids, until way-worn he reached and looked with delight upon the fair bosom of the Pacific. Such was the state of things in the month of December, 1848 ; the excitement became epidemic, and few escaped con tagion. I myself was an early victim of the disease, in its most virulent form, and at once determined to join the ranks of the vast phalanx, then forming, whose rallying cry was, "Westward ho !" On looking about for the best and safest means of getting to the land of promise, and after carefully weighing the advan tages and disadvantages of the different routes, I finally con cluded to join some one of the many companies then forming, with a view to mining and trading, and who purposed sailing around Cape Horn.

For the accomplishment of this end, a vessel was to be bought fully equipped with everything necessary to the success of the undertaking, and which would in case of need serve as a home on our arrival at our destination; for, like prudent generals, we would in this way reserve to our ourselves a means of retreat should our advance have been premature. I resolved upon this mode of prosecuting my journey for various cogent reasons. I judged the voyage by sea to be the most healthy, the least expensive, and attended with less risk than either the route by the isthmus of Panama, or by the Indian trails of the western prairies. The accounts we were then receiving from the isthmus were of the most distressing character. The hardships endured by the emigrants crossing it uninured to a tropical climate were terrible in the extreme, and the cholera, and fevers had already found many victims.

The news from the plains was scarcely less disastrous. Hun dreds had succumbed to the unusual hardships of the deserts ; cholera had there too thinned the ranks ; and loss of animals, and attacks of hostile Indians had turned homeward many a one disheartened. In view of all this I decided upon a voyage by sea, and joined a company consisting of some thirty young men, who associated themselves together for mutual defence and support, each of whom contributed as his quota, the sum of five hundred dollars, therewith creating a fund with which we purchased a fine bark of 300 tons burden, together with an outfit and mining materials necessary for the prosecu tion of our voyage. Of this association I was chosen President, and after matur ing all our plans, we set sail for San Francisco, on the — day of Feb., a.d. 1849.

To many, the idea of a long sea voyage would be disagree able in the extreme, but to me it conveyed a feeling of positive delight ; and here, at the outset of my journey, I must confess myself an enthusiastic admirer of all pertaining to the ocean. Upon its fickle bosom I have spent the greater part of nine long years. I have battled with the West Indian hurricane, the Brazilian pampero, and the typhoon of the China seas, and have passed days, yes, weeks, under sweltering suns in equatorial calms. I have been stinted in provisions and half mad for want of water, yet still I love the life ; there is an excitement in it, which, while it is pleasurable, is inspiring. It's glorious to cut along the blue rippling sea of the tropics, impelled by a trade-wind which, untiring, fills your sails, speeds you onward, and invigo rates you with its refreshing temperature.

It's glorious to feel that though your bark is but a speck upon the mighty waste of waters, that in her you rest secure, let the storm rage never so fiercely, let the waves run never so high, and that you, trust ing iu your own skill, can confidently cope with them. While there is something terribly sublime in a hurricane at sea, when the deafening roar stuns, and the mighty waves are surging and breaking around you — still, even then, one soars above the littleness of fear, with the feeling that he, in his weakness, is successfully contending against such fearful odds. To me, every trifling incident connected with the sea is fraught with interest, and I luxuriate in the endless vicissitudes of a sailor's life ; thus it will not seem strange that I selected the route around Cape Horn in preference to all others.

But, alas ! all in this world do not think alike, and before our little bark had been twenty days at sea, the enthusiasm of my thirty co-adventurers had oozed from their fingers' ends, and home sickness and despondency had usurped its throne. Curses loud and deep were unsparingly bestowed upon the sea and all " tbat go down thereto," and I will venture to say, that there were scarce ten men on board that vessel, who would not have forfeited their interest in the expedition to have been once more on terra firma. The voyage, for the first thirty days, was to me a peculiarly pleasant one. Once escaped from the cold blasts of our own coast, the northeast trade-winds bore us pleasantly onward on our course, our little vessel proving herself swift and true. On approaching the line, however, we lost our favoring breezes, and became entangled within the belt of equatorial calms, where we were held prisoners for the space of sixteen days.

The weather was intensely hot, the thermometer standing, during night and day, at an average of ninety degrees Fah renheit, the sails hanging heavily against the masts, as we lazily rolled over the long Atlantic swell. Oh I the tediousness of those long, long days. No ripple stirred the glassy surface of the water ; day after day the sun arose bright and burning from the sea, and night after night sunk fiery red below the ho rizon. The tar oozed from the deck-seams, the furniture in the cabins cracked asunder, and the water, heated and foul, be came thick and stringy in the casks, too nauseous for Christian man to drink. No place was there to escape the heat ; the cabins were insupportable, and a vertical sun gave no shade. One could not jump overboard without a long, green, shovel nosed shark making his appearance, with an ogreish look which banished all idea of the pleasures of a bath.

We whistled our lips to African dimensions ; we stuck our knife blades deep into the mast ; and, in a word, conformed to every extravagance of a sailor's superstition. But all in vain ; no breeze would come ; so we bided our time, and in pure de spair cursed old Boreas for a recreant knight, in leaving sweet little " St. Mary" in such a dire predicament. But all things have an end, as did our calm, and somewhere about the six teenth day of our sufferings, a gentle breeze sprang up, which, gradually assuming the type of the southeast trades, sent us dancing merrily across the South Atlantic. One of the most remarkable and beautiful of the ocean phe nomena, is that of the phosphorescent light produced by small auimalculæ, of a gelatinous nature, which appear to bear the same relation to the water as do the fire-flies to the air.

They abound more in some parts of the ocean than in others, and I think that I have observed them to be more luminous in the vicinity of the Cape de Verde Islands than in any other part of the world. Never shall I forget the startlingly beautiful effect produced by our little craft, as with a spanking breeze she skirted along this group. Every plunge she made was as into a molten mass of silver, and the spray flew like silver stars against the black, dark sky ; and astern, as far as eye could penetrate, the gloom was a broad, bright wake glittering with dazzling stars ; every wavelet that broke into the gloom dis charging a precious freight of glistening jewels. I had often read of flying-fish, and had pictured to myself some awkward member of the finny tribe, half bird, half fish. How different the reality 1 Hour after hour have I watched with delight these bright-winged sprites, as in shoals of hun dreds they have shot from crest to crest, like feathered arrows from a bow, their silvery wings glistening in the bright sun- THE DOLPHIN. shine, as pursued by their relentless enemy, the dolphin, they dart into the air and sail upon the wing, until exhausted they again sink into the sea.

These little waterfairies are scienti fically classified as the " Exoccetus Exiliens," and have fins nearly as long as their bodies (from five to nine inches), placed behind the gills, and these are used as wings ; they shoot from beneath the surface of the water and sail for a distance of from eighty to one hundred yards upon the wing, and then suddenly drop into the sea. From this we would infer, that as soon as the fins lose their moisture they likewise lose their buoyancy. "A delicate species of this fish is found in the Mediterranean, having four wings. The body is of a delicate bluish tint, and the bone of the head so transparent that the brain is quite percep tible." The dolphin is also found in great abundance in this part of the ocean ; indeed, cannibal that he is, and living upon his own species, he displays to the greatest advantage the grace and swiftness for which he is so celebrated, when in pursuit of the flying-fish.

His length is from twenty-five to forty inches, with an oval head, and his body tapering off to the tail, gives the idea of perfect symmetry. As he swims along just beneath the surface of the water, he appears of a bright green hue, varying in shade according to his depth, but as he darts from wave to wave, the eye is delighted by ever-varying flashes of green, gold, and silvery tints. To those for the first time sailing in the southern hemisphere, the brightness of the constellations, their novelty, and the clearness of the atmosphere, is a source of wonder and delight. Preeminent among them stands the constellation of the "South ern Cross ;" early Christian voyagers regarded it with unspeak- A LUNAR BOW. able awe as a symbol of their faith. Its beauty has been sung by poets of every tongue, and it was the first constellation no ticed and named south of the equator.

It is composed of four bright stars, the two which form the top and bottom of the cross having the same right ascension ; consequently the figure of the cross is perpendicular when on the meridian. In the same field of view the constellation oi "he Magellan Clouds is descried, consisting of two small white patches always maintaining their relative positions, and without chang ing in shape or appearance. They probably derive their name from having first been described by Magellan, or perhaps from the fact that when within the straits of that name the constellation appears directly overhead, as if a standing beacon for those entering. They are two nebulous masses of light con spicuously visible, and appear to be portions of the milky way. When examined through a telescope they present a singular appearance, and are found to be composed of an infinite variety of small clustering stars.

During the voyage, I had an opportunity of witnessing some thing of rare occurrence — a Lunar Bow. The moon was at its full ; a heavy mass of dark black clouds suddenly arising, ob scured the firmament ; a torrent of rain began to fall, and the moon, struggling through the clouds, threw her bright rays upon the falling drops, forming a perfect silver arc extending from horizon to horizon. The effect was grand, the deep background of those inky clouds beiug in strange contrast with the splendor of that broad, bright bow. After once taking the southeast trades, they rarely leave you until you are on the Brazilian coast, and they generally blow with great uniformity, usually veering but two or threo APPROACH TO KIO. 19 points during the twenty-four hours. We were at this time favored with a steady breeze, and with studding-sails drawing, went kiteing away before wind and sea, and on the day from New York our observations showed us to be within one hundred miles of the entrance to Rio Janeiro harbor.

The approach of dawn on the morning following, found the decks of our little craft covered with eager expectants, all anx iously awaiting a first glance at the coast of Brazil, and the breaking day revealed to our delighted gaze the bold and lofty headlands of Cape Frio. This cape is the extremity of a high mountainous promontory, rising abruptly from the sea until lost in the misty clouds which hover round its summit, and is a spur of the long range running northerly up the coast. This is the first land that is made in coming from the eastward, aud is to the mariner a well-known and unmistakable landmark. On its summit has recently been erected a lighthouse, which may be seen a long way sea-ward on a clear night. It was a matter of speculation to us as to how the light-keeper ever scaled his eyrie, and whether or not he held his office for life, as it seemed that after once arriving at the scene of his labors, he would have uo desire again to brave the perils of a descent.

The coast running north and south up to this point, here turns abruptly off to the westward, and sixty miles distant lies the Port of Rio Janeiro. The land from the Cape, westward, is a huge mountain wall rising perpendicularly from the sea. Its jagged peaks shooting upward in bold relief against the sky, a luxuriant and eternal verdure covering them from base to summit, while the light and shade produced by projecting crag and deep ravine, with water leaping from precipice to precipice, makes a grand perspective. ENTER RIO. A few hours' sail along this granite barrier brought us abreast the harbor, and towering high above us frowned the lofty summit of the Sugar Loaf. Here the breeze deserted us, and we lay the livelong night rolling heavily on the bar await ing impatiently the light and wind enough to carry us in.

About ten o'clock the next morning the breeze came in from the sea and filled our sails, and as we neared the entrance, a world of natural beauty fascinated our delighted gaze.

Chapter II. Rio Janeiro

Describes the Entrance to Rio Janeiro — Its splendid Harbor — Gives a slight Historical Sketch of it — General Description of the City, its Churches, Palaces, its Hospitals and its Villas — Touches upon Slavery and its Abuses — Gives Ideas of Catholicism as existing in Brazil and the Depravity of its Priests — Treats of the State of Society — Gives Descriptions of the Emperor, the Empress, and of the Brazilian Court. The only ingress to this magnificent harbor leads through a narrow cleft of that granite mountain on whose sides bristle fortresses which, ably defended, would defy the navies of the world. As we swung close under the precipice a sentinel hailed us, demanding our name and nation, and bade us pass on. Now fully before us stretched away the harbor of the " Hid den Water." Terrace upon terrace, dressed in loveliest verdure; islet upon islet, resting in the deep shade of overhanging hills; turretted fortresses, spires and domes ; hamlets peeping through groves of orange trees, crafts of novel structure, with the graceful lateen sail, scudding swiftly by ; stately ships of war, with the colors of every nation at their peak, and the city rambling o'er valley and hill, formed a coup d'œil which it does not often fall to the lot of man to gaze upon — too lovely as a whole for RIO the eye, yet unsatisfied, to attempt to discriminate its indivi dual beauties.