Florence the new capital of Italy

Front matter

FLORENCE LONDON PRINTED BT SPOTTI8WOODE AND CO. NEW-STREET SQUARE FLOKENCE THE NEW CAPITAL OF ITALY. BY CHAELES EICHAED WELD. ' But Arno wins us to the fair white walls, Where the Etrurian Athens claims and keeps A softer feeling for her fairy halls. G-irt by her theatre of hills, she reaps Her corn, and wine, and oil. and Plenty leaps To laughing life, with her redundant horn. Along the banks where smiling Arno sweeps Was modern Luxury of Commerce born, And buried Learning rose, redeem'd to a new mora. Byron. LONDON: LONGMANS, GEEEN, AND CO. 18C7. TO HENRY JOHN BARRETT i THIS BOOK IN MEMORY OP MANT DATS OF PLEASANT TEAVEL AND WARM FRIENDSHIP IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED. CONTENTS. CHAPTEE I. Across the Apennines — From Bologna to Florence — A Patriotic Florentine — Engineering Difficulties — The Val Reno — Numerous Tunnels — Marzabotto — JI.

Aria's Villa — Remarkable Collection of Antiquities — Huge Locomotives — Porretta. — Sulphurous Springs — The Crest Tunnel — A Dish of Crows' Gizzards — Campaniles — Val Brana — Val Pistoia — Arrive at Florence . . page 1

Chapter II

Hotel de la Grande Bretagne — Quick Life-pulses — The Piedmontese and their Gutturals — Dialects in Italy — Crowded Streets — Via dei Bardi — Remarkable Slope — Fortezza di Belvedere — A Florence Palace — Americans in Florence — Search for Apartments — Their High Price — Casa Guidi — Inscription to the Memory of Mrs. Browning — My Quarters — The Casa Schneiderf — A comfortable Pension — Restaurants in Florence — The Luna Trattoria — Restaurant de Paris — The Fenice — The Florence Flower-Girls — Smoking at Dinner — Price of Fuel — The Eight Winds of Florence — Prices of Provisions — Cost of living in Florence, past and present — The Sham Footman — Riding Horses — 'La Traviata' — Riding Ponies — Game of Ruzzola — Rides in the Apennines . . .12 CONTESTS.

Chapter III

Changes in Florence — Crowded Thoroughfares — Reckless Driving — The New Police— Scavengers — The Corsi Palace — Palace Winetaps— New Shops — Ancient Law respecting Bankrupts — The young Bohemians of Florence — Their Playing-ground — The Mercato Vecchio — Butchers' Shops — Small Birds — Vendors of Knives — A dangerous Weapon — The Ghetto of Florence— Edicts respecting the Jews — A Salted Jew — Old Clothes' Shops — Curiosities — Synagogues — Names of Streets — Mediæval Restorations — The Loggia del Bigallo — Project of adding a Spire to Giotto's Campanile — Facade of the Duomo — Cenacolo in Ancient Refectory of former Convent of Santa Croce — Florence Land and Public Works Company — Destruction of Ancient Walls— New Boulevard and Squares — Protestant Cemetery — Number of Burials — Tombs of Walter Savage Landor, Southwood Smith, Mrs. Browning — Proposed new Quarter — Nature of Houses— New Thoroughfares — Proposed Hotel at Fiesole — Want of a large Hotel near Florence page 32

Chapter IV

Character of the Florentines — A Gente Beffarda — The Old Grand Dukes — Their manner of Rule — Gossip in Florence — The Caffes — The Barbers — The Young Florentines and Shaving — Steele's Barber — Scandal in Florence — Its effect on Society — The British Court — A'ictor Emmanuel — His love for the Ballet — 'Les Pieds qui r'muent ' — Pretty Ballerine — Napoleon I. and the Danseuses at the Paris Opera — Moral Relations in Florence — Marriages — How managed — A Servile Cicisbeo — A Story of an Establishment at Turin — Masked and Fancy Balls — Fanciful Costumes— A Bacchante — Receptions ofthe British Minister — ' Soft Contentments' — Beauty of the Florentines — Loud Voices — Theatres — Dinner Parties — Amusements of Men and Women — Want of a Public Garden — Florence Cremornes in Prospect . . . .55

Chapter V

The Carnival at Florence — Throwing of Bouquets and Bonbons — Carnival at Milan— Masked Balls— The Veglioni at the Pergola CONTENTS. IX —A Bishop and the Cancan — Fast Characters — Suppers in the Private Boxes — An elegant Entertainment — Byron's Specific against Dulness — Masquerades at Venice — The Ridotto — Masked Balls at the Goldoni — Brawls — A fatal Quarrel — -The ' Cattivi ' Piedmontese ....... page 69

Chapter VI

The Churches of Florence — San Maria del Fiore — Decree respecting its Construction — San Giovanni — Religious Services — The Cat in the Duomo — -The Dog and the Devil — The Pope and Plenary Indulgence — Former Religious State of Florence — Iron Cross in Pisa — Garibaldi's Advice respecting Priests — The Trinity of Rome — Religious Ceremonies in Santa Croce — Military Services — Santa Maria Novella — Santo Spirito — Army Chaplains in Italy 77

Chapter VII

State of Religion in Florence — San Antonio and the Farmers — Religious Caricatures — II Governo Temporale — Three Religious Classes in Italy — The Codini — Padre Passaglia — His Life — He furnishes the Pope with Authorities for propounding the Immaculate Conception Dogma — Goes to Turin — Influence of Cav.our — Change in Passaglia's Sentiments — Catholic Reform Party — Leaders of the Movement — Their Organs — Giu II Temporale — Garibaldi's Address — Curious Print — The Societa Empancipatrice — Their Religious Opinions — Coleridge's Guide — Stability of the Roman Catholic Religion — Protestantism in Italy — De Sanctis — Protestant Theological College in Florence — Montesquieu on the Catholic and Protestant Religions — L'Amico di Casa — Eco della Verita — Circulation of the New Testament in Florence — TheBarletto Tragedy — Progress of Religious Liberty in Italy — The Bishops and the Papacy — Suppression of Religious Establishments — Number of Monks, &c. in Italy — Revenue derivable from secularisation of Ecclesiastical Property — Pensions to Members of Religions Orders — Preservation of celebrated Monasteries — Law respecting Manu- X CONTENTS. scripts and Art Treasures — Monte Cassino — San Marco — Savonarola — His Cell — Fra Angelica's Frescoes — The Spezieria of San Marco page 87

Chapter VIII

The Military Establishments in Florence — The Cavalry Barracks — Their dirty Condition — Troop Horses — The Soldiers' Quarters — Guns and Pistols— Desire to fight the Tedeschi — The Infantry Barracks — The Infirmary — Prison — Fortezza da Basso — Physical Appearance of the Men — The Bersaglieri — Lord Clyde's Opinion of them — Rations — Court Martial on a Lieutenant — Piedmontese Officers — Their great preponderance in the Italian Army — Growth ofthe Italian Army — Force at the beginning of 1866 — Organisation — Manner in which it is recruited — Love of the Army for Victor Emmanuel — His Address to his Soldiers after the taking of Palestro — Elected Corporal of a Zouave Regiment — His reported curious mistake respecting the Champion of England — Willingness of the Italians to fight for their Country — Isabella of Arragon and the Wounded Colonel — Italian Heroes and fair Florentines 114

Chapter IX

The Italian Parliament — Its similarity to the British House of Commons — A Popular Demonstration — Idiosyncrasies of Irish and Italians — A Stump Orator — Venice and Rome — An unpleasant Squeeze — The Palazzo Vecchio — Florence and Government Spies — Wise Policy of the present Government — The Cinque Cento Hall — La Vacca Muglia — Recent Inscription commemorating the Annexation of Tuscany to the Kingdom of Italy — Vasari's Frescoes — Adaptation of the Hall for the Parliament — The President — Classification of the Deputies — Signor Scialoja — His Financial Speech — Its effect on the Public — Government Reporters — Women Reporters — Love for Speaking — Refreshments — Duels between the Deputies — Meeting of the Senate — Ancient Court Theatre— Lengthy Dramatic Performances — Michael Angelo's 'Fiera' — Description of the Senate Hall — Oratory of the Senators CONTENTS. XI

Chapter X

The Schoolmaster abroad in Italy —Official Educational Returns — State of Education in Florence — Elementary Schools — Endowment of Education by lhe State — A Florence Artisan and Mazzini — Society for Promoting Popular Education — Gymnastic Institutions in Florence — Universities — Professors in Florence - Lectures in the Academy of Fine Arts — Biblical Archæological Meetings — Dr. Pierotti — His Researches in Palestine— Academies in Florence — Their great number during the Middle Ages — The Platonic Academy — Accademia del Cimento — Accademia Secretorum Naturæ — Accademia Della Crusca — Present Home of the Academy — Roba of the Academy — Curious Shovels and Chairs — Dictionary ofthe Academy — The Georgofoli Society — Statue of Padre Banini — Scientific Soiree at the Royal Museum — Senatore Matteucci — Lecture on recently discovered Fossil Human Skull — Pre-historic Remains — Medals of Creation — Voltaire's Opinion on the Age of the World — Palæontological Collection in Florence — Electrical Experiments — Magnificent Specimens of Italian Cotton — Meteorology in Ital}' — Senatore Matteucci's Theory respecting Storms — -Publications of the Royal Museum page 147

Chapter XI

State of Literature in Florence — Dearth of Modern Works — The Jockey Club — Caricatures — Public Libraries — Vieussieux's Library — The Magliabechian or National Library — Antonio Magliabechi — His Youth — Apprenticed to a Goldsmith — His love for Books — Becomes Assistant to a Bookseller, and Librarian to Cosmo III. — Magliabechi's House— Book Stores — A Paradise of Spiders— Anagram on his Name — His "WiU — Lami's Library — Present State of the National Library — Signor Vannucci — The Laurenziana Library — Public Libraries in Italy — The Riccardi Library — Remarkable Manuscript Volumes— Early Banking Operations in Florence — A Modern Finance King — The Peruzzis — Bardis— Scalis — Acciajolis — Dante's Designation ofthe Peruzzi — Early Florentine Commerce — Extensive AA'ool Trade — Large Loan to Edward III. — His Repudiation of the Debt — Bankruptcy of the CONTENTS.

Florentine Bankers— Consequent Downfall of the Florentine Re public — Curious Domestic Particulars — Extravagant Dresses — Cosmetics used by Florentines — A Merchant's Advice to his AVife — Commendatore Peruzzi — Arehivio Centrale di Stato — Early Charters — Papal Bulls — Archives of suppressed Monasteries — Guilds of Florence — Abundant Literary Pabulum . page 174

Chapter XII

The Press of Italy — Repeal of the Censorship — Indifference of Italians to good Newspapers — Titles of Journals published in Florence — Proportion of Newspapers to the Population of various Cities — Caricatures — 'La Scossa Ellettrica' — ' LTtalie' — 'La Nazione' — Its Advertisements — Broad Sheets — Ballad Literature — A Popular Ballad— The Priest and the Widow . . .198

Chapter XIII

Design to erect a new Art Gallery in Florence — Present Disposition of Statues and Pictures — Proposed Marriage of the ATenus de' Medici — Crowded, state of the Art Treasures — Risk to which the Pictures are exposed — The great Artist ' Copiasi ' — Organisation of Public Galleries — The great Social Evil of England — How to combat it — International Horticultural Exhibition — The Grand Duke's Madonna — Copyists in Florence — Delusion respecting Copies of Famous Pictures — Applications to copy the Madonna del Seggiola — Changes in Uffizi Gallery — Painting by Lorenzo il Monaco — Recovery of Art Treasures — Seal of Emperor Augustus — Collection of Coins — Story respecting a supposed ' Unique ' Coin — Private Objects — Mr. Powers — His Clytia — Modelling Clay from Alabama — Statue of Mr. Everett — M. Dupre's Studio — Monument to Catalani — Cavour's Monument — Figures of Bacchus — M. Dupre's Daughter — Signor Fedi — Colossal Group of Rape of Polyxena — Spirit of Cellini — Mr. Fuller — Group of Glaucus and lone — Fantaechiotti — Statue of Goldoni — Professors Pallastrini and Ussi — Marko, Signorini, and Chiavacci — M. Fallardeau— Pallazzo Machiavelli— Mrs. Hay's new Picture — Mussini's CONTENTS.

XIII Picture of A7ictor Emmanuel receiving Castruccio's Sword — Agnerni — Fresco Painting — Patronage of Art by the Italian Government — Important Decision respecting taking Casts of Bronzes — Ghiberti's Gates of the Baptistery . . page 210

Chapter XIV

The Passage between the Pitti Palace and the Palazzo Vecchio — ' Constructed by Vasari — Its former Purposes — Intrigues— A'iolante Martelli — Nature of the Passage — Numerous A\Tindows — Curious old Pictures — Portraits of the Medici— Paintings in Distemper — Festivities under the Medici — Carnival Songs — Canzoni a Ballo — Lorenzo de' Medici's Poetical Compositions — Dancing Exhibitions — Religious Exhibition on the Ponte alia Carraia — Fearful Catastrophe — Proposition to destroy the Ponte ATecchio — Arictor Emmanuel's Order respecting it — A new Public Exhibition in Florence — Drawings by old Masters — Curious Tapestry . 234

Chapter XV

Mendelssohn's Observations on Italian Music — The Pagliano Theatre — Adelina Patti in Florence — How she nearly came to Grief — Bouquet-throwing — Present to her from Queen of Portugal — A A'enetian Ballerina — Patti' s Family — The Opera in Florence — Great number of New Operas— Rossini's Operas — Ballets in Florence — Pretty Dancers— Concerts — Musical Institution — Accademia del Buon Umore — Collection of A7iolins — Toarte' s Bows — Paganini's Wooden-shoe Fiddle — Societa del Quartetto — Societa Sbolci — Cherubini Society — Monument to Cherubini in Santa Croce — Operetta entitled Newmarket Races — Singing in Florence — Guido Aretino — How Singing was Taught formerly in Italy — Price of Music Lessons in Florence — Church Music in Florence — Military Music — Theatres in Florence — Amateur Theatre at Fiesole — Grisi and Mario — Etruscan Temple . 246