Last Winter in Rome

Front matter

ROME. LONDON PHISTED BY SPOTTISWnODE A5D CO. NKW-STREET SQUABS E T , IMP* K.*J.LAl-sE,I.ITH S T S IL a A A P. OMAN MODEL. LAST WINTER IN ROME. BY CHARLES RICHARD WELD. ' Sotto 1' ombra delle sacr.e penrie Govern6 '1 mondo.' — Dante. 'Vieni a veder la tua Roma che piagne.' — Dante. ' A man who has not been in Italy is always conscious of an inferiority, from his not having seen what it is expected a man should see. It ought to be the business of every man's life to see Rome.' — Dr. Johnson. LONDON: LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, ROBERTS, & GREEN. 1865. TO MRS. KELSO (or kelsoland) THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

The Start — London City in the early Morning in December — Across the Channel — No Summer Tourists — A learned Parisian — The S. E. R. Steamer — Mutual Mistakes — The Grand Hotel du Louvre — Upholstery versus Comfort — Varnished Boots — Passports — Lyons — French Opinion of Prize Fights — To Marseilles — A Mistral — Winter Aspect of the South of France — Marseilles — Mediterranean Steamers — The Pausilippe — A motley Crowd — The Cardinal Archbishop of Lyons — The Distinction of a Blessing — At Sea — A 6trange Berth — Balmy Air — A Polish Party — A patriotic Father — Arrive at Civita Vecchia . . page 1

Chapter II

The Harbour of Civita Vecchia — Ruinous Quays — Fortifications — French Troops — The Landing — Custom-house Examination — Books stopped — Bathing in December — The Sights of Civita Vecchia — Miraculous Picture of the Virgin — II Lampione — Who pulls the Wires — A curious Ex Voto — Diamond Nipples — The Market of Civita Vecchia — Woodcocks — Railway to Rome — Orange Trees — The Campagna — Alban Hills — First View of Rome — Early and mature Sensations — Ideal and real Rome — The Railway Station — Great Confusion — Hotel de Londres . .15 X CONTENTS.

Chapter III

Madame Starke, and Mr. Murray, the 'Mother' and 'Father' of the English in Rome — Rome no longer a Cheap City — Rent of Lodgings ■ — Cost of Living — Restaurants — Tea — Wine — Adulteration Process — Fuel— Wood from Tiber — Coal and Coke — Blankets versus Fires — Horses and Carriages — Hackney Cabs — Hotels — Cost of Apartments — Table d'Hote — How to silence a Bore— Hotel de Rome — Hotel de la Minerve — Boarding in Roman Families — Palaces let by Roman Princes — Largo dell' Impresa — Origin of the Name — Price of my Rooms and Board — My Landlord and his Family. page 23

Chapter IV

My Quarters — Description of them — Charm against Evil-eye — Jettaturas and Jettatrices — View from my Windows — Grateless Rooms — Stufas — Ancient Roman Stoves — The Conte — Guiseppe — A Philological Puzzle — A ludicrous Mistake — A Family Dinner — Italian Dishes — Their Peculiarities — Garlic and Horace— Large Appetites - How Roman Girls eat — Capelletto Soup — Mental Culture among Romans — Shelley's Opinion of Roman Women — The Italian Language — How spoken in Rome — Contrast between the Voices of Roman and English Women — Gesticulation of the Romans — Pretty Feet rare in Rome — Dinner Guests — The Game of Tombola— Great Excitement — Dislike of Tea by the Romans. 32

Chapter V

City Noises — The Noises of Rome — Vagabond Dogs — Their Nightways — Dog Law — Goats versus Dogs — The Dogs of the Apocalypse — How Roman Dogs are destroyed — The Cats of Rome — Their love-making Localities — More frightened than hurt — Bagging Roman Cats — Roman Butchers — Chopping Meat — A Stroll through Rome— Piale's Library — The English Quarter in Rome — Piazza di Spagna — Column to commemorate Establishment of the Dogma of the Immaculate Conception — Artists' Models CONTENTS. XI — Old Beppo — Suppression of Beggars — Licensed Beggars — Want of good Reading-rooms in Rome — St. Peter's — Wretched Pavement — Rome wants a Napoleon III. — The Immaculate Conception again — Where first mentioned — The Windows at the East end of St. Peter's — An ideal gigantic Organ — Why the Pope cannot set up such an Instrument in his Cathedral — Roman Ecclesiastical Logic — Napoleon I. and St. Peter's — The Architecture of the Churches in Rome page 43

Chapter VI

Advent of Christmas in Eome — Zampogni and Pifferi — Regina Cœli — The Pifferari — The Eoses of Eome — Eoman Streets— Penitential Pavement — Cardinals and their Lacqueys — Christmas Eve — The Holy Cradle — Quaint Hat and Sword — Vespers in the Sistine — Pope Pius IX. — The College of Cardinals — Their Dress — The warbling Wethers — Singing in the Papal Chapels — Concert at the Palazzo Bonaparte — The Holy Bambino ... 54

Chapter VII

Christmas Day in Eome — St. Peter's — Entrance of the Pope — High Mass — Church of Ara Cœli — The Bambino of St. Luke — Infantile Preaching — Maternal Vanity — History of the Holy Bambino — Gibbon and his 'History' — Adoration of Images and Belies — Patron Saints — Gregory II. — Council of Bishops at Constantinople — Saints honoured in Eome 60 CHAPTER VEIL My Landlord in Attendance on the Pope — How His Holiness is defended — Life of Pio Nono — Origin of the House of Mastai Ferretti — Infancy of the Pope — His Weakly Nature — Wishes to enter the Army — His Dandyism when Young — Greatly admired by Women — Aspires for the Hand of the Daughter of Prince Albani — 13 disappointed — Goes to Rome — Leads a Gay Life in that City — Endeavours to enter the Guardia Nobile — Falls ill— Becomes a CONTENTS.

Priest — His Religious Zeal — His great Eminence as a Preacher — Is appointed Secretary to a Religious Mission to Chili — His Zeal and Bravery — Returns to Europe — Created Archbishop of Spoleto — Cardinal and Bishop of Imola — The Abbess of Fognano— The Countess of Spaur — Elected Pope — Hopeful Anticipations of his Reign — Becomes an Ultramontanist — His Policy more to be ascribed to his Ministers than to himself — Epigram on him — Superstition respecting Duration of his Reign — Cardinal Antonelli . page 67

Chapter IX

Life of Cardinal Antonelli — His great Power — Born at Sonnino — Famous for its Brigands — Enters a religious Seminary — Declines to become a Priest — Clerici senza Vocazione — Privileges of the Priesthood — Cruel Ingenuity of the Inquisition — Antonelli created Cardinal — His Influence over the Pope — His Diplomacy — Opinion of the French Government respecting him — His great Wealth — His Collections — His Personal Appearance — The Fear of Assassination — Dislike entertained towards him by the People . 78

Chapter X

Temporal Power of the Pope — His Spiritual Influence — Ecclesiastical Offices held under the Pontificate — Number of Cardinals — Why limited to Seventy — Roman Catholic Hierarchy — Church Dignitaries created by Pius IX. — Districts of the States of the Church — Representatives at Rome of Foreign Powers — Creed of the Pope — Address to the Pope by the Roman Catholic Congress at Malines. 35

CHAPTER XL

Old Rome — Subterranean Church of San Clemente — The Upper Church — Its Site — The Atrium and Quadriporticus — Marble Ambones — The Irish Dominicans in Rome — Father Mullooly — His Discovery of the underground San Clemente — Hints for subterranean Exploration in Rome — Discovery of ancient Pavement — CONTENTS. XIII Wall Frescoes — Magnificent Marble Columns — Discovery of the Remains of a Pagan Edifice — Kingly, Republican, and Imperial Constructions — Antiquarian Difficulties — Confirmation of Scripture History by Frescoes— Early Representation of the Crucifixion — San Clemente — Fresco representing Discovery of his Body — His Life and Martyrdom — Miracles following this Event — Representa tion of the Burial of St. Cyril — St. Clement's Church in London — Contributions towards the Excavations under St. Clemente — Work to be done page 95

Chapter XII

Confinement in Rome oppressive — A Walk beyond the City Walls- Ferry across the Tiber — The Ripetta — Custom-house Officers at the Receipt of Custom — Quaint Ferry-Boat — Madonna's Shrine — - Tiber in Flood — Turbid Nature of the River — Alluvium — Ancient Feats of Natation — Tubbingnot done by modern Romans — A Canine Companion — Canine Gratitude — Instinct of Dog-kind — Dogs maligned by Lord Byron — Right and Left Banks of Tiber — Vicolo dell' Inferno — Barbarities of the Troops of the Constable of France — Roman Lanes — Vineyards — Manner of training Vines — Across the Country — Monte Mario — Bushes of Rosemary — View from Monte Mario — Geology of the Mount — Caught trespassing — Proprietor of the Villa Mellini — My Dog Friend — Apology accepted — The Pianist Liszt — Cypress Avenue — Solitude no Cure for Love . 108

Chapter XIII

My Landlord and his Sword-cane — Unsafe Condition of the Streets in Rome last Winter — Objections against a Sword-cane as a defence against Night-robbers — Tragical End of a Squabble in New York — Nature of Roman Houses — How they favour Robbers — Dark Difficulties — A 'Lucina' — Am dogged at Night — Suspicions entertained by Roman Housekeepers — How Visitors are received — Story of a Gentleman who was robbed of his Watch last Winter in Rome — A Gentlemanly Robber — How Roman Robbers use the Knife CONTENTS.

Chapter XIV

The Collegio Romano — Stronghold of Jesuitism — Ascetic Figures — Vow of St. Ignatius — Establishments the College — Great Nursing Mother of Jesuits — Their Duties — Church of San Ignazio — The Confessional — The Collegio Romano closed against Woman — The Museum — Its great Advantages — Special Objects of Interest — The Cista Mistica — Frescoes — Gladiatorial Combats — The Vestal Virgins — Interesting Graphite — Use of the Stylus — Early Pictorial Allusion to the Crucifixion of our Saviour — Valuable Religious Testimony — The Observatory of the Collegio Romano — Padre Secchi — Galileo — Solar Spots — Fine Equatorial — Magnetic Observations — Meteorological Apparatus — View from the Observatory. page 129

Chapter XV

Last Day of the Year — Mild Temperature — Baths of Caracalla — Shelley — Vegetation of the ' Baths ' — Recent Excavations — Boar's Tusks— Sale of Antiquities — The Roman Bath — Ignorance respecting it — Nature of the Bath — Roman Baths in Great Britain — Defect in the modern Roman Bath — Power of Human Body to withstand Heat — Influence of the Roman Baths on the ancient Romans — Their effeminate Luxury — Church of the Gesu — The Te Deum — Visit of the Pope — How His Holiness was received — The Court Journal of Rome — Last Night of the Year — A Family Gathering 138

CHAPTER XVL

New- Year's Day in Rome — Great Expenditure of Pasteboard — Mass in the Sistine Chapel — Indulgences — How to gain them — Roman Family Dinner-party— A Variety of Soups — Religious Discussion — A Roman Catholic Name — Its Consequences — Cardinal Weld — A tolerant Monsignor — How I did not attend one of the Pope's Receptions — Conversion among Protestants — Good Custom in Roman Catholic Churches — Doctrines concerning Purgatory, &c. — The Lyons Religious Difficulty — Ancient Gallican Liturgy — The Pope's Ultramontanism — Pius IX.and Napoleon CONTENTS. XV — Triumph of the Gallican Church — Policy of the French Emperor — The Pope's Reply to Napoleon III. on the proposed International Congress — Papal Rescripts — France and the ' Roman Question ' — Clarendon's Opinion of Churchmen . . page 147

Chapter XVII

Great Meteorological Change — Excessive Cold — Rome under Snow — ley Fountains — Discomfort of Roman Rooms — Stufas — Scaldinas — 'Freddo, Freddo' — Range of Thermometer — Constant Temperature of St. Peter's — York Minster — Contrast between English and Roman Girls — Exercise versus Stoves — The Contessa — Walk round Walls of Rome — Time required to effect this — Probable Extent of present Walls — Pictorial Effect — Picturesque Gates — Oxen and Buffaloes — Mr. Waterton's Adventure with these Animals — A Marble-hunting Expedition — Abundance of Marble Fragments formerly in Rome — And now in the Campagna — Museum in Collegio della Sapienza — Prodigious Number of Specimens of Ancient Marbles — Alabasters — Purposes to which Marble Fragments jnay be applied — Good yielding Veins of Fragmentary Marbles — ' Camels of the Campagna ' — The Villa Livia Marble Quarry — How to find good Marbles 158

Chapter XVIII

The Public Abattoir at Rome — Its excellent Arrangements— Disease among horned Cattle in Italy— The Peste Ungarica — Statistics of the Disease — Microscopical Examination of the Blood — Buffalo Flesh — Roman Sheep — Disgusting Practice in London — Roman Pigs — Their past and present Excellence — Horace's Recommendation of Sucking-pig — A Pompeian Pig — Whipping Pigs to Death — The Modern Papal Pig — How he is fed — And how killed — End of the Pigs— Coppa 167

Chapter XIX

Rumours and Reports in Rome — A Sensation Report — Mr. Home and the Papal Government — Popular Belief entertained in Rome re- CONTENTS. specting Mr." Home — Ordered to leave Rome — Thaumaturgy not sanctioned in the Papal Dominions — Papal 'Promises to pay' — The Mysteries of Spiritualism — Mr. Thackeray and the Spiritualists page 175

Chapter XX

Annual Exhibition at the Propaganda — Objects of this Institution — Ordination of Youths — Missionary Strength of the Establishment — - The Propagandists — Dr. A. Campbell — Declamatory Gesticulation — Address by a Dane — Musical Performance — Coro di Pastori — The Octave of the Epiphany— Sermons in St. Andrea della Valle — The Rev. F. Neve — Theological Difficulties in England — St. Maria degli Angeli — A grand-looking Monk — Saint Bruno — Michael Angelo — His Works in Rome — His Opinion of Painting and Sculpture — HisPoetry — IllustratesDante's ' Divina Commedia' — Mr. Hay's ' Science of Beauty ' — Colonnade of the Parthenon — Cloisters of St. Maria degli Angeli — Inscription over door of Monk's Rooms 182

Chapter XXI

Excessive Cold — Hospital of San Spirito — Its Revenues — Charitable Institutions in Rome — Wards in San Spirito — Suffering of the Patients — Abuse of the Charity — Unwillingness to enter the Hospital — Pope Leo XII. and the Roman Hospitals — ' Do not Water the Broth ' — Religious Societies — Shaving the Patients — Hospital of Santissima Salvatore — The Dead-Room — Asylum for Lunatics — Foundling Hospital — Manner of depositing Infants — A Young Mother — The Public Cemetery of Rome — The Foundling Hospital of Rome favourable to Profligacy — Few Infants claimed . 195

Chapter XXII

The Cries of Rome — Vegetables in the Streets — The Markets of Rome — Butcher's Stalls — Boars — Porcupines — Frogs — Tortoises — Numerous Birds exposed for Sale — Magpies — A Musical Bird — CONTENTS. XVII Thrushes — The Sparrow of Scripture — How Swifts are caught in Rome — Flower Stalls — Manner in which Bouquets are made in Rome — Table Flower Parterres— Bouquets in the Corso — The Pantheon — Its neglected Condition .... page 204

Chapter XXIII

The Catacombs — The Early Christians — Recent Exploration of the Catacombs — Antonio Bosio — His 'Roma Sotteranea' — Great Number of Catacombs around Rome — Their vast Extent — Christian Museum in the Lateran — The Catacombs as Places of Sepulture — Volcanic Tufa around Rome — Inscriptions in the Catacombs — Records of Visitors — Catacomb of St. "Calixtus — The Catacombs resorted to during Periods of Danger — The Martyrs — Contrast between Christian and Pagan Inscriptions — Wells in the Catacombs — Mode of depositing the Dead — Manner in which the Graves have been rifled — Discovery of the Body of St. Cecilia — Catacomb of the Ancient Jews — The Shophar — Numerous Bones — Great Interest of the Catacombs —Fulfilment of Scriptural Prophecies — Persecutions of Early Christians— Symbols of Christianity . . 214

Chapter XXIV

My Landlord's Library — Books known by their Coats — The ' Lives of Saints ' — Crucifixion of Missionaries in Japan — A Non-reading Family — Roman Newspapers — Dearth of Literature in Rome — Ignorance of Modern Romans — The 'Index Expurgatorius ' — Its blighting effect — A muzzled Press — Condemnation of Books — Form of denouncing Books — ' Le Maudit ' — Its Anti-papal Character — Prayer to Jesus Christ — The Sacred Congregation — Library of the Prussian Archæological Institute — Library of the British Academy — The Barberini Library — Interesting MS. on Public Buildings in Rome — Bad Accommodation for Readers in Public Libraries in Rome — Book-stalls in Piazza Navona — Curious Book on the Dress of Women— Fines for wearing certain Dresses —The Punishment of Vanity 228 a CONTENTS. XVIII

Chapter XXV

The Gay Season of Rome — Balls and Parties— Gaiety last Winter — The Ancient Nobles of Rome— Their Privileges— The Massimi Family — The Pallavicini — Virgil and the Modern Britons — The English Church in Rome — Admiration of Englishwomen by Roman Gentlemen— The Guardia Nobile— Their Slender Pay — Fortunehunters — Lines suggested by an English Ball in Rome — The Theatres of Rome— The Apollo — The Argentina — Custom of the Governor giving Ices and Sweetmeats — Prices of Seats — Rossini and the Barbiere di Seviglia— Ludicrous Contretemps — Triumph of the Maestro — Private Theatricals in Rome — Theatre in the Via Frattina — Hunting in Rome — The Meet — English Influence in Rome — The Hounds blessed by the Pope — ' Bass ' and ' Guinness ' — Miss Hosmer — Mr. Gibson's advice to her — Riding in the Campagna — Prowess of English Huntresses — Italians in the Hunting Field — Game of Palla — Prince Odescalchi — Hire of Riding Horses in Rome — Hunt Club Ball — Roman Princesses and their Diamonds page 238

Chapter XXVI

The Palatine — Its former Architectural Splendour — Milton's Vision of it — Palace of the Cæsars — Present Appearance of the Palatine —Emperor of the French — The Excavations — Roman ' Navvies ' — Relics of the Past — Temple of Jupiter Propugnator — Nymphœum of Vespasian's Palace — Gorgeous Chamber —Gold Coins — Fashionable Promenade — Excavations in the Via Latina — Signor Fortunati — Basilica of St. Stephen — The ' Painted Tomb ' — Columbaria — Archæological Treasures — Temple of Jupiter Latialis . 254

Chapter XXVII

The Villa Livia — Statues from Volsinii — Villa Cæsarum — Charming Situation of the Villa Livia — Remarkable Discovery — Beautiful Frescoes — Livia's Garden Bower — Probable Period at which the Frescoes were executed — Ludius — Exquisite Stucco Work Discovery of the Statue of Augustus — Torchlight View of it — Descrip- CONTENTS. XIX tion of Objects on the Cuirass — How Canova showed his Statues — Lines by Moore on Canova — Augustus represented as a Beggar — The Empress Livia — A Dutiful Wife . . . page 263

Chapter XXVIII

The Tiber — Artistic Treasures concealed in its Bed — Proposal to the Papal Government to search for these — Submitted to Cardinal Antonelli — How entertained by him — Bed of Tiber cleaned by Augustus — The Bateau Plongeur — Probable Eesults of searching the Bed of this Eiver 274

Chapter XXIX

The Sabbath in Rome — How it is kept — Early Italian Academies — The Accademia de' Lincei — Its History — Difficulty in finding it — Attend a Meeting ofthe Academy — Professor Volpicelli — Curious Fall of a Gray Powder — Low State of Science in Eome — The Instituto Areheologico — Observatory of the Collegio di Sapienza — Fine View from the Eoof — Ascent of the Capitol Tower — No longer allowed — The Colours of Italy and France .... 279

Chapter XXX

Conversation with Revolutionists — Their hatred of the Papal Government — Courts of Law — The Papal Police — Crime in Rome — Murder of a Money-changer's Clerks — Escape of the Assassins — Impunity with which Murders may be committed in Rome — A new Illustration of Shutting the Door when the Steed is Stolen — Story of the Robbery of an English Lady's Jewels — French Troops in Rome no security for Property — Past and Present Area of Papal States — Former Opinion of Napoleon III. respecting Occupation of Rome by French Troops — The Pope's Allocution— Priestcraft in Rome — Monsignor Liverani's Revelations . . 291

Chapter XXXI

Severity of the Winter of 1863-4 in Rome — The Spring Flowers of Eome — Violet-gathering — The Colosseum by Moonlight — An a XX CONTENTS. Unruly Englishman — ARide round the Arena — The Evening Hymn in the Colosseum — Fontana di Trevi — Curious Belief respecting its Waters — Political Caricatures — L'Amico di Casa . page 307

Chapter XXXII

Festa of San Antonio — Origin of the term Festa — The Protector of Italian Animals — His Fame at Padna — Church of San Antonio in Rome— Life of the Saint — Introduces Monastic Life into Rome — St. Tony's Pig — Blessing Animals in Rome — Forms observed by the Peasantry — A Smart Donkey — Blessing a Donkey and a Dog — Fee paid — The Saint's Sermon to Animals — Brigands and their Horses 314

Chapter XXXIII

A Midnight Apparition — Bringing in a Corpse from the Country— Confraternita della Morte — Objects of the Association — Penitential Work done by Roman Nobles — Begging Expeditions — Result of a Begging Tour — Superstitious Feelings respecting Dead Bodies — The most terrible Malediction — The Papal Lottery — San Andrea Avellino — The protecting Saint against Sudden Death — The Lottery Handbook — Manner in which it is used — Nature of the Roman Lottery — Origin of the Institution- — Drawing of the Lottery — Lottery Prophecies — A Lottery Ticket — Revenue derived from the Lottery — The Roman Lottery and English Horse-racing and Betting— Ruinous Consequence of the latter . . .321

Chapter XXXIV

The Roman Carnival — Past and Present — Circular respecting it issued by the National Committee — Effect of the Circular — The Carnival of 1864 — Regulations respecting it — Throwing Confetti from Horns — The Ex-King of Naples — The Mocoletti — Spirit of Fun among the Romans— Similarity of the Carnival to the Ancient Pagan Saturnalia — The Asinine Festival — Hymn to the Ass — The Masked Balls — Throwing a Sneezing Powder — Its Effects — Family CONTENTS. XXI Suppers — Inordinate Eating — Elia's Edax — A Monster Cake — The Capranica Theatre — Pulcinella's Ninety-ninth Disgrace. page 333

Chapter XXXV

Remember that you are but Dust' — Ash-Wednesday in Rome — How celebrated — Fasting regulations — Dispensation from the Pope to Officers of the Guardia Nobile — Derivation of the word Carnival — Religious Service in the Sistine Chapel — Strewing of ashes on the Cardinals' heads — English Custom on Ash-Wednesday — Indulgences granted on Ash- Wednesday — Confession during Lent obligatory in the Roman Catholic Church — Numerous Confessionals — Ex-votos in Santa Maria in Trastevere — Licence allowed to the English by the Papal Government during Lent — Private Theatricals — Sermons during the Quadragesima — Dr. Manning's Discourses — Proposition to build a New Church in Rome — Churches ' Retired from Business ' — The English CoDege — Church formerly attached to this Institution dedicated to St. Thomas of Canterbury, destroyed by fire — Sermon by Dr. Manning on St. Thomas a Becket — Views of the Pope on the rebuilding of St. Thomas' Church in Rome — The Collegio Pio — Church of San Giorgio in Velabro — Its dilapidated condition — St. George — His Life — Number of Churches dedicated to St. George in England — Frescoes representing various events in his Life . . . 345

Chapter XXXVI

Oratorios in Rome during Lent — San Maria in Valiicella— San Filippo Neri — Life of this Saint — Founds Order of the Oratorians — Reputed Miracle — Portrait of the Saint — The Oratory — Nature of the Musical Performances — Litanies in honour of the Virgin — Sermonettas by Children — Oratorio of San Atanasio — Legend respecting him — Women not admitted to the Oratorios in Rome — Concerts in Rome — Monster Concert for the Benefit of St. Peter's Pence Fund — Performance by Liszt — Amount received for the Peter's Pence Fund — England's Contribution to Pope Leo IV. CONTENTS. XXII

Chapter XXXVII

The Abbe Gerbet's 'Rome Chretienne' — The Eternal City asserted to be favourable for Contemplation — Not the case last Winter — Explosion of a Bomb in the Piazza di Spagna — Fatal Effect — Commotion occasioned by>the Explosion — Nature of the Bomb — Another Bomb discovered in the Corso — Intended destruction of Papalini — ' Garibaldi e in Caprera ' — The throwing of Bombs in Rome a sign of great sense of Oppression — Political Caricatures — Blowing up the Pope — Affray between Papal and French Troops — Death of Papal Soldiers — The Pope's Orders respecting sidearms — Patrols in Rome ...... page 366

Chapter Xxxviii

Political degradation of Rome — Niebuhr's observation on Modern Romans — The Gardens of Rome — Ancient and modern — A Fairy Garden — Lovely Bouquets — An elegant Entertainment — Vespasian's retreat — The Roman in Villegiatura — The Vigna Codina — Columbaria — Advantages of Cremation — Ashes of a Dog — Great variety of Antiquities — A pilfering Visitor .... 374

Chapter XXXIX

Rome a manufacturing City — The Studios — Copyists of old Pictures — Manufacture of spurious ancient Pictures — Notice respecting authenticity of copies from the old Masters — Story of the ' real original' Transfiguration of Raphael — Rom an Tradesmen — Bronzes — Marble Ornaments — Jewellery — Castellani's Establishment — Mr. Gibson and his Studio — His new Statue of Psyche — Colouring Statues — Mr. Gibson's opinion on this subject — Permanence of the Colour — Washing a Venus — Mr. Gibson's great popularity — Canova's life in Rome — Artists in Rome — The English Art Academy — The Italian Academy — Its Objects — Manufactory of Contadinas — Stella — Story respecting her — Pascuccio — Romans not celebrated as Artists — Photography in Rome — The photographic Deceit and Nuisance CONTENTS. XXIII

Chapter XL

The Jews in Rome — The Ghetto — The inconvenience of being too well dressed — The Cenci Palace — Authentic Narrative of the 'Cenci Tragedy ' — Hustled by Jews — A Human Hive — Shops in the Ghetto — A Dealer in Curiosities — A Death-Ring - A Thumb- Screw — A deadly Key — A poisoned Peach — The Acqua Tofana — The five Synagogues— Apparent absence of Religious Devotion — Ancient Shophar — Representation of the Golden Candlestick on Arch of Titus — Endeavours made to convert Jews to Romanism — Jews baptized publicly at Easter ..... page 394

CHAPTER XL

[. Peasants from the Campagna — Wage of daily Labourers — Herdsmen — The Capanna in the Campagna — Their interior Economy — Roman Donkeys — Roman Public Letter- Writers — Antonio Brugi — His Office — A rough Barber — Love Letters — Specimen of Amatory Poetry — Absence of Intoxication among the Peasants . . 405

Chapter XLII

Crime in Rome last Spring — Monster Picnics — Their Enjoyment to the English — Excursion to Veii — Ovid's Gardens — Isola Farnese — A Cannibal Landlord — The Ponte Sodo — A liberal Spread — Archæological Darkness — The Painted Tomb — Poggio Reale — Etruscan Skeletons — Contents of the Chambers within the Tomb — Excursion to Ostia— The Malaria— The Tiber— Its Delta— Ancient Port of Ostia — Pliny's Villa— His Description of it — Modern Ostia — The Bishopric of Ostia — Excavations at Ancient Ostia — Castel Fusano — The Casino of Prince Chigi — Great Pine-forest. — Walk though it to the Sea — Wild View — Pia Tolomei — Her Death by Malaria in the Maremma of Sienna — Excursion to Grotta Ferrata— Basilian Monastery — Charming Sketching Subjects — St. Nilus — Domenichino's Frescoes . . . . . ' . .411

Chapter XLIII

The Pope's Royal Progress— Placards in the Streets — Demonstration by the Papalini— Former Papal Processions in Rome — Curious CONTENTS. XXIV Account of the Pope and Cardinals in the Sixteenth Century — Pasquin's famous Antithesis Christi et Pontifieis — Arrival of Pio Nono at the Church of the Minerva — Showers of Yellow Paper — The Pope's bravi castroni — Reception of the Pope — His Unpopularity — Campanile of SS. Giovanni e Paolo — Temple of Claudius — Vivarium — Martyr's Prisons — Receptacles for the Wild Beasts destined for the Colosseum — Traditionary Statements — Holes in the masonry of the Colosseum — Opinions respecting them — Church of SS. Cosmo e Damiano — Lives of these Saints — Popular belief in their curative and limb-restoring powers — Parti-coloured Legs — How the Virgin saved a Lady from drowning page 431

Chapter XLIV

Church of Santa Croce in Gerusalemme — A ' Holy Nail ' — Sale of Nails — Blessing Duties of the Pontiff — The Holy Nail in Santa Croce — Copy of Official Document respecting it — Relics in Principal Churches in Rome — Ex-voto Offerings — Madonna in Church of S. Agostino — Her Jewels — Pagan Votive Offerings — Madonna della Tufa — Report of Institute of France on Virgin Worship — Winking Virgin at Vicovaro — Attention of Pius IX. — Portrait in the Deanery at Canterbury — The Luxury of Superstition . 447