Travels through the Crimea, Turkey and Egypt; performed during the years 1825-28, including particulars of the last illness and death of the Emperor Alexander, and of the Russian conspiracy in 1825. (Memoir of Mr. J. W.)

Front matter

TRAVELS THROUGH THE CRIMEA, TURKEY, AND EGYPT, $c. #c. LONDON : SHACKEII AND BAYLIS, JOHNSOn's-COURT, FLEET-STREET. OYEEFUDV ©IF THE KII.1E. TRAVELS THROUGH THE CRIMEA, TURKEY, AND EGYPT; PERFORMED DURING THE YEARS 1825—1828, INCLUDING PARTICULARS OF THE LAST ILLNESS AND DEATH OF THE EMPEROR ALEXANDER, AND OF THE RUSSIAN CONSPIRACY IN 1825. BY THE LATE JAMES WEBSTER, ESQ. OF THE INNER TEMPLE. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II. LONDO N: HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET. 1830. Page CONTENTS OF VOL. II.

Chapter I

Alexandria — Pompey's Pillar — Cleopatra's Needle — Visit to the Pacha Mahomed Ali — New Seraglio — the Catacombs — Destructive Indolence of the Turks— Social Life among the Franks at Alexandria — Departure for Cairo— Fouah — Interview with the Governor — His Fondness for Raki — His Cunning — Banks of the Nile— First Sight of the Pyramids — Boulak — Cairo — Mr. Salt — Mr. B. -Costumes at Cairo — Site of Heliopolis — Bazaar- Visit to the Pyramids— Return to Cairo — Tombs at old Cairo — that of the Granddaughter of the Prophet — Tombs of the Mamlukes — the Maturia 1

Chapter II

Mahomed Ali, Pacha of Egypt — Murad and Ibrahim, the ruling Beys of the Mamlukes — Murad and Murat — the Character of the two Beys — Battle of the Pyramids — Osman Tambourji, Murad's Successor — Ibrahim, Shiek El Belled — Sir David Baird — Massacre of the Mamlukes — Mahomed Kosrouf— the Defeat of Youssuf Bey <ind Mahomed Ali — Reflections .31 VI CONTENTS. Page

Chapter III

Birth of Mahomed Ali-Dreams of his Mother previously to his Birth— Taken under the Protection of the Governor of Cavalla —Mahomed wins his Patron's Favour by his Boldness— Marries —His Children -French Expedition to Egypt— The Sublime Porte's Determination— The Governor of Cavalla's Contingent- Mahomed crosses to Egypt— His brave Conduct— He rises in the Service— Changes in the Government— Mahomed's Intrigues for Power— Elected Viceroy 40

Chapter IV

Kourchid Pacha— His Services against Ali Pacha of Jannina— His Miserable Death— The Mamlukes— Their Opposition to Mahomed Ali— Their Defeat- Elfy Bey— Arrival at Alexandria of the Capitan Pacha -Proceedings of Mahomed Ali — Death of Elfy Bey and of Osman Bey Bardissy — Hostilities between Great Britain and the Porte -Colonel Sebastiani— Admiral Duckworth's Expedition — Defeat ofthe English 57

Chapter V

Departure ofthe English from Egypt - Misery ofthe Inhabitants of Egypt — Mahomed Ali's Exactions — Exasperation of the Sheiks — The Sultan sends Presents to the Viceroy of Egypt — Toussoun appointed Pacha of Two Tails — Destruction ofthe Mamlukes — Dreadful State of Cairo— Mahomed Ali's Remark on the Massacre ofthe Mamlukes 77

Chapter VI

Toussoun's Campaign against the Wahabees — The State of Arabia — Rise ofthe Wahab Sectarians — Abdul Wahab— His Education — Principles of Wahab Faith — Eben Sehood of Derayeh — His Successes in War — Death of Abdul Wahab — The Sheik Abdelazeez— Destruction of Kebelah and of the Tomb of Hussein — Death of Abdelazeez— Sehood, his Son and Successor — The Sultan determines on Hostilities against the Wahabees CONTENTS. Page

Chapter VII

Ghaleb, Scheriff of Mecca — Toussoun, Pacha in Arabia — His first Successes — Medina re-captured, and the Keys of the City sent to the Divan at Constantinople — The Porte's Gratitude — Successes against Sehood— Mahomed Ali in Arabia — His Conduct towards Ghaleb — The Sheik banished to Salonica — His Death — The Death of Sehood — Abdallah, his eldest Son and Successor — Mahomed's return to Egypt — Toussoun follows— Ibrahim Pacha in Arabia — Final Subjugation ofthe Wahabees — Death of Abdallah 99

Chapter VIII

Ismael Pacha appointed General of the Army of Nubia and Sennaar — Death of Toussoun Pacha — Ismael's Army — Dongola — The Sheygya— Berber — Shendy— Nimir Malek — The White River— Dissensions in Sennaar— Submission of King Mahomed — Rebels impaled — Turks excite the Disgust of the People of Sennaar — The Cruelty of the Turks to the Negroes of the White River — Sennaar ruined— Negro Population driven to Syene— Epidemic in the Turkish Army — Ismael's Fears— Joined by Ibrahim Pacha— Their Progress— Fazoglh— Cruel Death of Ismael— Reflections 109

Chapter IX

Leaving Cairo for Upper Egypt — Saccara — Arab Christening — Minieh — Siout — Account of the Discovery of Ezra's Hebrew Manuscript, by Mr. S. — Cotton Manufactory at Siout— Effect of the Climate on Machinery— Excavations near Siout— Cemetery — Sale of a Young Slave— El Arabat— Ruins— Gournah 124

Chapter X

Temple of Luxor -The Colossi— Tombs— Cure for the Bite of a Serpent— Assuan— The Use of Iron known to the Antient Egyptians—The Nilometer— Festival of Rhamadan— Philae— Temple — Boys crossing the River — Ruins and Views of Philae — Cataracts of the Nile CONTENTS. Page 185 33.3

Chapter XI

Koum Ombos— Ruins— Gebel el Silcily— Edfou— Tombs at El Hegges — Esneh — Thebes— Memnonium— Carnac— Ghenny — Dendera—Siout— Til El— Armarna— Excavations— ETaramoum Sugar Manufactory — Sheik-a-badi — Return to Cairo 163

Chapter XII

Concert at Cairo— Departure for Mount Sinai — The Springs of Moses— Wady-Feran— Arab Welcome -Quarrel between Two Arabs— The Convent— Chapel of St. Helena— Plain below Horeb— Inscriptions near Sarabeit-el-Khaddam— Hot Winds....

Chapter XIII

Soil of Egypt -The Delta-Breadth of the Valley of the Nile- Mahomed Ali's Principal Ministers— Egyptian Architecture — Recollections and Anecdotes 204 Recollections 212 Notes on Sicily and Malta 223 APPENDIX, Containing an Account of the last Illness of the Emperor Alexander, and a full Statement of the Russian Conspiracy in 1825.. TRAVELS THROUGH THE CRIMEA, TURKEY, AND EGYPT.

Chapter I

Alexandria — Pompey's Pillar — Cleopatra's Needle — Visit to the Pacha Mohamed Ali — New Seraglio — the Catacombs — Destructive Indolence of the Turks — Social Life among the Franks at Alexandria — Departure for Cairo — Fouah — Interview with the Governor — His Fondness for Raki — His Cunning — Banks of the Nile — First Sight of the Pyramids— Boulak— Cairo— Mr. Salt — Mr. B. — Costumes at Cairo— Site of Heliopolis — Bazaar — Visit to the Pyramids — Return to Cairo — Tombs at old Cairo — that of the Grand-daughter of the Prophet— Tombs of the Mamelukes — the Maturia. On the 19th we went ashore to deliver our letters of introduction. Having settled at the inn, and engaged a servant, our first object was to visit the far-famed column, commonly known as Pompey's Pillar, standing about two miles from VOL. II.

B POMPEY'S PILLAR. the sea shore, on a slight eminence, composed of the remains of the former city, to which, at one time, it had served as an ornament ; but it is now a sepulchral monument, pointing out the site of the ancient town, which lies buried in ruins at its feet. We had understood, before going there, that the date of its erection might be fixed from an inscription discoverable on the pedestal. On approaching this, the first thing we remarked was— "H. M. S. Glasgow, March, 1827," in large black letters, surmounted by the classic name, Henry Cram, of the equally classic town of New castle-upon-Tyne. Of less daring or less ambitious Dogberries, who had also written themselves down — beneath, there were Johnsons, Thomsons, and many of that eternal name, Smith — " A name so spread o'er Sir and Madam, That one would think the first who bore it, Adam."

So that, what with black paint and red ochre, pitch and sand, the pedestal and the lower part of the shaft may now rival the party-coloured mantle of Jacob's favourite son. It was in vain to look for any of Dioclesian's inscriptions, since the scribbling of those who had ascended to the top had obliterated all other traces. It appears that, in March, 1827, the officers ofthe Glasgow, by means of flying a kite, had passed a string over the top of the column— to this was fastened a cord, and eventually a rope-ladder was affixed. Cleopatra's needle. 3 Their example has been followed by the crew of almost every man-of-war which has been stationed in the port. The Turkish flag having been left, by a party visiting, at the top of the column, caused offence to the governor ; and it is said that no thing of the kind is now allowed.

Breakfasts have been given, and letters written from the top, and even a lady has been known to ascend. It is evident, on inspection, that the shaft does not correspond with the capital, base, and pedestal, which, to say the most of them, are poor, both in execution and taste. The feeble prop-work put up by the Turks is fast mouldering away, and should not a more substantial support be furnished, the column, ere long, will add to the heaps of ruins already scattered around it. About a mile farther to the N. E., in a solitary, dull, square, and unpicturesque corner, stands the obelisk, called Cleopatra's Needle. It is a fine piece of granite, covered with hieroglyphics. No one having ascended it, it is undisfigured writing. Having dined with Mr. S. the Dutch consul, we proceeded to the palace, where we found that the Pacha had not yet risen from the siesta.

We were introduced into a large plain room ; and, after waiting for about ten or fifteen minutes, we crossed the hall, and were introduced into the audience chamber. The room was surrounded by a divan, at the farther end of which he was seated in the corner. Mr. B., the b M0HAM1D ALI. dragoman, was standing before him. We were then introduced by the consul ; and, taking our seats on the divan, coffee was served, and con versation began. Mohamed Ali, in personal appearance, has nothing very imposing. He is a little man ; and his countenance would be dull and inexpressive, were it not for a keen and restless eye. His forehead is high, his nose rather short and broad, and his beard white. He is rather corpulent. On quitting him, we went to visit his seraglio, which was being erected on the point of land close to the port.

Its walls, of wood and plaster, weighed down by a heavy tiled roof, and its marble floors, exposed to the united effects of the sea and the wind, denote any thing but dura bility : while the rich, though fantastic, decora tions of the interior, render it worthy of notice as a curiosity, though not of imitation as a work of art. The artists employed are mostly Greeks, who have decked the interior with a mixture of Arabesque and Chinese views, in which proportion and perspective are woefully disregarded. Not a single human figure is introduced in any part. It appears that the Turks do not object to draw any thing but a human being. We saw a drawing of the giraffe, on the divan in the Pacha's room. The day after, we visited the catacombs. The first few rooms are evidently Greek, and in very good style ; the rest of the excavations are nearly filled up with rubbish : and, although we CATACOMBS. — CLEOPATRA'S BATHS. 5 crawled a considerable distance on our hands and knees, we discovered nothing else worthy of ad miration.

A short distance from the catacombs are two or three grottoes, partly formed by exca vations, and partly by subterranean ruins. These have obtained the name of Cleopatra's Baths. They may possibly have been at some time used for this purpose ; but it is very questionable whether they deserve their name. The suburbs of Alex andria, for miles, are covered with the ruins of the antient town. Heaps of brick and mortar, mixed with the broken shafts of columns and mutilated capitals, cover immense vaults, which serve as reservoirs to the town, and are replenished on every overflow of the Nile. Each inundation adds to the deposit left by the preceding one, and will eventually, if no steps are taken to remedy it, choke up and destroy the reservoirs— another example of that apathy and indolence, which so strongly mark the Turkish character.

" Sufficient for to-day is the evil thereof," seems to be their motto ; and they leave the future to Providence and the prophet. Although treated with much hospitality by the gentlemen to whom our letters of introduction were addressed, and who, in their own houses, are most friendly, and seemingly, as far as we could observe, on good terms with the neighbouring Franks, still we did not enjoy that frequent and friendly intercourse, which so strongly charac terizes the society of Smyrna. Whether this must SOCIETY AT ALEXANDRIA, &C. be attributed to the effect of conflicting interests, or to the check which all communication receives during the plague, we must leave to others to determine. Thus much, however, is certain, that, of all the towns in the Levant, Alexandria is the last, both from climate and company, which would tempt the traveller to a lengthened stay.

Such was our impression, and it induced us, with all possible despatch, to prepare for our departure. We made preparation for our journey, and, accompanied by our dragoman, we proceeded to the Mahmoudia, which is that part of Alexandria joining the port, by which it is separated from the canal. We here engaged our cangia, a kind of boat, with a small cabin, lofty enough to admit of any one sitting upright in it, on the divans placed on each side. Having embarked our luggage, we proceeded up the canal which connects the Nile with Alexandria. This canal was dug by the present Pacha, and we were credibly informed that upwards of three hundred thousand persons were hired in the villages, in the different parts of Egypt, and forced to work, and more than twenty thousand of them fell victims to the insalubrity of the climate, scarcity of food, and the want of proper shelter.

We arrived the next day at the end of the canal, which is separated from the river by a dam, to prevent a reflux of its waters, as the river gradually decreases. This dam was not the only obstacle to our proceedings. On application CANAL OF ALEXANDRIA. 7 for a cangia, to the governor of the port, we were informed, that an order had been received from the Pacha to engage every boat for the convey ance of his suite, which was daily expected to leave Alexandria for Cairo. We had much difficulty in persuading him to allow us to take a boat from the place ; but prevailed by giving a captain about fifty piastres more than the usual fare, half of which was to be paid down, that our reis might reimburse the governor for his condescension. We were delayed for about half a day by this circumstance, and it was nearly night before we got under weigh.

We proceeded a short way up the river, and, finding a contrary wind had sprung up against us, we were constrained to lay-to for the night, under the walls of Fouah. We had not been there twenty minutes, when a chaoush came down from the governor, to ask who and what we were ? This inquiry was soon after followed by an invitation from that officer, to smoke and take coffee with him. We eagerly seized on this opportunity of witnessing Turkish life in Egypt, and accompanied the messenger. Achmet Caches, into whose presence we were ushered, was a man about thirty-five, whose corpulent figure and flushed face bore evident marks of the bon vivant. He was surrounded by a group of Albanian soldiers, all of whom retired at a signal given by him, and we were left alone with him, his Copt Secretary, a ACHMET CACHEF.

Greek, and two Mamlouks. This governor pro fessed himself highly honoured by our visit, and, giving to one of our party his pipe to smoke, he ordered his Mamlouks to bring fresh ones, and coffee. After having repeated his expressions of satisfaction on seeing us, he inquired where we were going, and on our replying satisfactorily, he asked usto take further refreshment. One of our party replied, that after the excellent coffee we had tasted, nothing could be more acceptable than a glass of water. " Good," replied he, and wink ing to his Mamlouk, ordered some water. The man soon returned with a bottle of aquavitæ, or a strong spirit made from dates. " This," said he, " is the water of which you Franks are so fond." We declined taking any, but, after much solicitation, at length consented. Seeing our reluctance, he told us, that though the prophet had forbidden raki, he would take some, to convince us that he had no intention of poisoning us.

After we had tasted, he replenished his own glass and drank it off. This he repeated no less than seventeen times in the course of the four hours we remained with him. He shortly after addressed one of us in the following terms : " Notwithstanding," said he, " that you pretend not to drink, yet I'd stake any money that your boat is well stored with all sorts of wine and liquors." Not seeing the drift of this observation, we acknowledged that we had some with us, and thought we could do no less ACHMET CACHEF. than make him an offer, which we did, desiring our dragoman to inquire, what kind he would have, brandy, gin, or rum? " Oh," replied he, quickly, " I like them all three." Whereupon, of course, we gave him a bottle of each, and a hearty laugh was raised at our expense. The spirits were shortly pro duced, and the corks drawn, and Achmet, having first insisted on our tasting, proceeded to help himself.

Scarcely had he satisfied his curiosity, when, pleased with the success of his first trial, he made a second attempt. " As you are English men," said he, " of course you are fond of shooting ;" but this time his address was parried, our reply being that we were fond of shooting, but unfortunately had left Alexandria without provid ing ourselves with gunpowder. This turned the laugh against the governor, in which he good humouredly joined, and calling for another glass of raki, pledged, and drank it, remarking, that if Mahomed should ask him why he drank, he would throw the whole blame upon us. Pleased with the acquisition of his three bottles, he invited us to remain to supper, which was served up about midnight. A large circular tin tray was brought in, round which we seated ourselves, and, having washed our hands, commenced the meal in the Turkish fashion.

A spoon, but no knife or fork, was given to each guest, who helped himself to the soup, all eating out of the same tureen. This was followed by above twenty different dishes, FOUAH — BANKS OF THE NILE. among which was a saddle of mutton, which we were invited to claw to pieces with the rest of the party — our host shewing his attention by tearing off every now and then a large piece of mutton in his fingers, and placing it before us. As soon as supper was over, ablutions were again per formed, pipes, coffee, and spirits introduced, and we quitted the house of the governor about one in the morning, highly pleased with the novelty of our entertainment. Fouah was a town of some consideration in the tenth century, but it gradually lost its com merce, which was removed to Rosetta. This latter place, in its turn, yielded to Alexandria ; and the canal, which nearly connects Alexandria with Fouah, is likely to restore it to its original importance.

In the morning, with a fair breeze, we continued our voyage to Cairo. Nothing can be more unpicturesque than the banks of the Nile. The landscape, in fact, so far as the picturesque is concerned, might be taken by a parallel ruler. A horizontal line for the water, a horizontal line for the bank, and the line of the horizon itself — a few angular lines for the palm trees, — will give an idea of the monotonous ap pearance of these banks. Were it not for the mud-built villages, from which the white-washed minarets of the mosque are seen, through a palm grove, which invariably overshadows these dwellings, and in some degree relieves the scene, the APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. 11 country, setting aside its antiquities, would pre sent a continued scene of dulness and monotony. The traveller's attention, however, is agreeably diverted by the novelty ofthe customs and appear ance of the inhabitants.

If an agriculturist, he is pleased with the fertile soil, and its varied pro ductions ; (although he may regret the low ebb to which the agricultural knowledge ofthe country is reduced : so true is it, that in all countries where the land is fruitful, the husbandman is indolent:) the ornithologist will find birds, known to him before only by books : the botanist a wide field for his researches, and the sportsman as much amuse ment as he can desire : the economist could not live in a country where provisions are cheaper : and those, who are fond of numerous retinues and splendid attire, may here find them at little cost. A succession of small villages is seen at every fresh winding in the river. The Arab women, in their blue robes, fetching water from the Nile in urns, which they carried away upon their heads — and, as they wound up the bank, the graceful folding of their drapery, the uplifted arm supporting the vase, which strongly resembled that of the antique, — formed a most picturesque spectacle.

The halfstarved fellah, seated on his donkey, with his long nabout, or stick, and if very fortunate, with his pipe in his mouth, rode lazily along the course of the river. The creaking of the sakkeiahs, used for the irrigation of the land, were the only sounds FIRST VIEW 07 THE PYRAMIDSwhich we heard. — We made but slow progress, as the winds were contrary, and the crew threatened to abandon us, a dispute having arisen between them and their reis, or captain, in consequence of their unwillingness to tow the boat by a rope. On the seventh day after our departure from Alexandria, after many attempts to gain a sight of the pyramids, on our arrival at the top ofthe Delta, these celebrated monuments of antiquity came in view. The sun was just setting behind the Lybian sands, and their western sides were barely distin guishable through the rising mists.

Still, we had seen the pyramids — and we re-entered the cabin with that excitement of spirits always consequent on the obtainment of a long wished-for object. The wind favoured us during the night, and at ten on the following morning we arrived at Boulak. The edge ofthe river was lined with boats, taking in corn ; camels were carrying off cotton ; the banks were crowded with Nubians and Arabs, who were selling dates and sugar-canes. One ofthe first objects which strike the stranger, on arriving at Boulak, is the palace of Ishmael Pacha— an odd composition of Greek, Italian, and Arabic architecture. Its large windows give it an open and airy appearance. The plaster, paint, and gilding, make the exterior a gaudy contrast to the surrounding filth and misery. Our luggage was placed on the backs of camels, and we ourselves mounted the asses brought for CAIRO us by the Arabs and trotted off, followed by Arab boys, beating the donkies, and clearing the way before.

Through the narrow lanes of Boulak, we at length came to the open fields, which divide this suburb from the city of Cairo. We entered Cairo by the part called the Esbe Keiah, and crossing it, reached the entry to the Frank quarter, and, passing a gateway, we went down a narrow lane, at the end of which stands the house of the English consulate. Cairo, seen at a distance, is beautiful ; but what ever may have been thought in its favour vanishes on entering it. In the East, show is everything — from the fretted ornamental minaret, down to the silk covered and tasselled pipes, which the syce, or groom, carries before his master. The scenes which the traveller here meets, are powerfully opposed to the expectations of the admirer of eastern poetry. Half the inhabitants of the town are so filthy and ragged, that in England they would be sent to the tread-mill for indecent exposure.

Their dirt is absolutely indescribable. Few of the streets are wider than 'Changealley, and they are unpaved and winding. Carriages are never seen. With the thermometer at one hundred and ten, among crowds of Caireens squeezing and stewing in the avenues, where horses, camels, dromedaries, and donkiet, and women muffled, and mounted on mules, blocked the place with clouds of small and almost imperceptible dust, which got BOULAK. into our eyes, and the overpowering glare of the sun-light, we had a ceaseless change of temperature at the turn of every street, and the thoughts of the plague, which never leave the imagination of the European. Happy the man who escapes with only bugs and fleas ! These are not the only insects which annoy the traveller ; flies fill his plate at meals, and the mosquitoes destroy his rest at night.

It was aster a rather squally day that we visited Boulak again. We reached the head of the Delta about sunset ; and from the cabin top discovered the famous pyramids, the sun shining on their western sides. At ten p. u. we arrived at Boulak. Not to dismiss it too abruptly, we may add that the houses at Boulak are generally four, five, or six flats in height, the two first of hewn stone, and the doors ornamented. The minarets are partly Turkish and partly Arabian, with richly worked galleries.— On our return from Boulak, we traversed rich fields, with pyramids in the distance ; then came the large triangular piazza, with a range of old houses on one side, and palaces on the other, among which is that of the Pacha. Dromedaries were trotting along the road, and many persons riding on asses ; the women wearing black mantles, covering all but the face, which is concealed by a white veil.— We proceeded to the consul's house, having a letter for Mr. Maltass, who was in charge of the consulship.

The house was empty, and the library gone. Mr. Salt, who ENGLISH RESIDENTS AT CAIRO. 15 had recently died, was remarkable for his love of money, which he indulged so far as to become a trader in antiquities. Latterly he did not exca vate, but purchased of excavators. He died worth from thirty-five to forty thousand pounds. His salary was fifteen hundred a-year, and the duties of the office very light. He was a man of great abilities, originally an artist, in which character he accompanied Lord Valencia. We had a letter to Mr. Burton, who lived in the Turkish quarter of the town. We sent the letter up by a servant, who, seeing us in an European costume, refused to admit us. Mr. Burton was so unwell that he could not see us, but Mr. Hum phries, who lives with him, received us, quite in the Turkish fashion.

The room is furnished with divans, and projects into the street — the usual style in Turkey — so as to afford a view of the whole range of houses. Mr. Elphinstone had left Cairo two days before for Alexandria. Messrs. Parker and Sprott had just returned to Cairo from Jerusalem in six days and a half. They had left the plague at Ramleh and Gaza, where, out of two hundred families, twenty per sons perished daily. In the evening we called, with Mr. Maltass, on Mr. Parker, who gave us an account of Jerusalem. The people there were in great alarm about the plague. He had per formed no quarantine in passing into Egypt by Gaza, and hence he apprehended some danger of CAIRO the plague coming to Cairo, rumours of which were already abroad. The houses at Cairo have windows, or shut balconies, projecting into the streets, which latter are often only five or six feet wide.

The Frank quarter is not much crowded, but the other parts absolutely crammed. The customary riding is on asses. A servant goes by the side crying out incessantly "Reglak,chemalak,"&c.,that is, "Your right leg! your left leg! take care!" beating the other animals and clearing the way. The difficulty in passing through the narrow streets is, chiefly, when a camel comes laden with corn or fire-wood, filling the whole way. When two of these animals meet, the pushing, floundering, and disputing, are beyond description. The dresses at Cairo, are not so various as at Constantinople. The Arab habit consists of a blue or white shirt, with red strap, or girth, wide sleeves, fastened up above the elbow by cords, which cross over the back ; of a kind of under drawers which come down to the knees ; and of a turban of four rolls of white muslin.

The shoes are large and of red leather. There are two head market days a week, Monday and Friday. We passed on a market day through a court, where numbers of negro women were exposed for sale, sitting in the sun, almost naked. They were black, thick lipped, with plaited or matted hair, and seemed quite in- THE BAZAAR, &C. 17 sensible to their condition. At the entrance of the Bazaar, there are chains placed across the street, to prevent asses from entering. The Bazaar itself is a perfect Babel, insufferably crowded. The salesman holds up the articles which he wishes to sell, as swords, pistols, pipes, cachmere shawls, jackets, trowsers, &c, and pushing his way through the crowd, bawls aloud the price at which he offers them. The merchants sit in the shops (which are a kind of stalls without windows) displaying their stock.