Norsk, Lapp and Finn; or, travel tracings from the far North of Europe ... With route map and frontispiece

Front matter

TRAVELS BY FRANK VINCENT, JR., AUTHOR OF NORSK, LAPP, AND FINN. The Land of the White Elephant : Sights and Scenes in Southeastern Asia. A Record of Travel and Adventure in Burma, Siam, Cambodia, and Cochin-China. Profusely- Illustrated with Maps, Plans, and Engravings. New and Enlarged Edition. Crown 8vo, illuminated cloth $3 50 "One of the best books of travel we have seen." — Literary World, London. " It betrays the zeal of the genuine traveller." — New York Tribune. "We doubt if a more fascinating work of travel has ever been published." — Bulletin, New Orleans, La. " It is in all respects one of the most interesting and valuable books of Eastern travel ever given to the public." — Daily Call, San Francisco, Cal. * The book is a real contribution to the literature of travel." — Bayard Taylor.

"A very important American exploration." — Chief-Justice Daly. Through and Through the Tropics : Thirty Thousand Miles of Travel in Polynesia, Australasia, and India. i2mo, cloth .... $1 50 " Extremely readable." — Saturday Review, London. "Full of judicious observation." — Standard, London. " The author is a keen observer of men and manners." — Philadelphia Telegraph. " It is only necessary to read a half dozen pages to awaken an interest in the author's travels almost personal, and a curiosity which urges to the wind-up." — Boston Globe. "A very charming and entertaining book." — Paul B. Du Chaillu. SENT, POST-PAID, ON RECEIPT OF PRICE, BY G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS, 27 & 29 W. 23d St., New York. A LAPP FAMILY Norsk, Lapp, and Finn OR, TRAVEL TRACINGS FROM THE FAR NORTH OF EUROPE BY FRANK VINCENT, Jr. AUTHOR OF "THE LAND OF THE WHITE ELEPHANT," "THROUGH AND THROUGH THE TROPICS," BTC.

WITH ROUTE MAP AND FRONTISPIECE NEW YORK G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS 27 & 29 West 23D Street I88l Copyright bt G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS 1881 Press 0/ G. P. Putnam's Sons Nnu York TO HENRY M. STANLEY THE GREATEST OF ALL AFRICAN EXPLORERS THIS WORK IS INSCRIBED IN ADMIRATION OF HIS INESTIMABLE SERVICES TO SCIENCE AND CIVILIZATION.

Preface

It was Goethe, if my memory serves me aright, who announced three test questions upon the correct answers to which the canons of literary criticism are based : first, what does the author propose to do ? second, is it worth the doing ? third, has he done it well ? Since these searching interrogatories will doubtless be made in due course regarding the present writer, some expla nation may be allowed him in reply to the first, the others being left to the consideration of notoriously im partial and cultured critics. Though I have travelled much " up, down, and around the world," it has always been my aim to write only of the less-frequented and consequently the less known countries, whether or not they offered the most romantic opportunities for picturesque description. In the present instance, fortunately, not only are the places and peoples I describe but little known, but the novelty also of customs and manners leaves me no excuse for being dull.

My prior wanderings were in the bright summerland of the Tropics, where, as Humboldt has happily remarked, " the native may behold all the vegetable forms VI

PREFACE.

. of the earth without quitting his own clime." Now would I take my readers with me to the Arctic Zone, the Tropics' natural counterpart. In this great division of the earth, instead of large showy flowers and gigantic parasitic plants, one finds the dwarf birch, the gray alder shrub, pliant willows, and meads pale with lichen. In zones where heat prevails, Nature pours out her bounties so profusely that it would seem as though she must perforce be niggard here. About the Equator I found Man ardent and effusive, the emotions responding with the vivacity of childhood to every impression, whether sad or joyous; but north of the Polar Circle his temperament becomes frigid and passive, and, as in old age, almost insensible alike to pain or pleasure. Could there be antitheses more striking ? In such con trasts and comparisons, however, is found the greatest charm of Boreal travel.

Scandinavia and Finland should be of additional and special interest to us, since so many of their natives emigrate to America, where, settling in the rural districts of the great Western States, they materially help an agricultural development. Our manufacturing in dustries also are greatly benefited by the acquisition of these skilful people of the North. Since 1820, 300,000 men and women have emigrated hither from Denmark, Norway, Sweden, and Finland. Their children, born in the United States, would about double this estimate, thus raising the Norsk and Finn element in our popula tion to a total of 600,000. The States selected as new homes by these foreigners — who are still coming at the

PREFACE.

. VII rate of about 15,000 a year — stand thus in order of patronage : Minnesota, Illinois, Wisconsin, and Iowa. A small proportion of the emigrants are musicians, clergymen, and teachers ; others are clerks or adroit artisans, such as carpenters, masons, and so forth. The vast majority are steady, frugal, hard-working laborers and farmers. A few are merchants, and many — of the women especially — are capable and faithful servants, and thus constitute phenomena unknown to New York and her surrounding cities. Since the year 1556 there has been a small library of works published concerning these northern nations, though I have found no book which recognizes the ethnographical, philological, and topographical pro priety of grouping all of them together for literary treatment. When thus combined they make the re spectable showing of ten millions of people, occupying the entire northwestern corner of Europe — an area of nearly half a million square miles.

It is natural that these enormous numbers should have given authors something to write about, but such books as still sur vive seem, for the most part, rather out of date or out of service, in that they do not show that contempora neous status which, as supplementing the past, is essen tial to the student of civilization. It has, therefore, been my endeavor herein to present not only the latest, but also the most authentic information obtainable, to gether with such statistics, facts, and details as seemed necessary to furnish a clear idea of the intellectual, in dustrial, and commercial conditions of these countries,

PREFACE.

. VIII always bearing in mind that Man is vastly more impor tant than Nature. I have not forgotten that Bayard Taylor's Summer and Winter pictures of Scandinavia won the deserved reputation of being the best work in English in regard to this portion of the globe. It was written, however, a quarter of a century ago, and is, therefore, slightly antiquated. I fear that I am using this fact as an ex cuse for my own temerity, but I likewise remember that Mr. Taylor did not visit Finland at all, and that what ever personal knowledge he obtained of Denmark was acquired by a stay of three days only in Copenhagen, to a description of which he devotes less than two pages of his book. One of the principal objects of my going abroad, however, was to study the Lapps as they were in their own homes and at their everyday labors and occa sional recreations.

This object I was able to accom plish entirely to my satisfaction so far as the gathering of the desired information was concerned ; but whether I have succeeded in transmitting my impressions in a desirable form to the public, is a question which I ask myself without being able to answer. It is pleasant for the traveller who has told his tale to know that he has excited in the stay-at-home reader a curiosity to view for himself the distant landscapes of tenderness or grandeur and far-away people whose language, opinions, habits and institutions are vastly different from his own. The materials for creating this curiosity met me at every step during my journey

PREFACE.

. through the High North, and if the sequel proves that I have failed to weave them into a volume having a value more than fleeting, I shall have the sorrowful conviction that I have fallen behindhand since my early Oriental tours. New York, September, 1881, I'AGH CONTENTS

PREFACE.

v

Chapter I

A Sea-Girt Kingdom. From Paris to Hamburg. — Choice of Routes thence to Copenhagen. — Characteristics of Hamburg. — Scenery between Hamburg and Kiel. — The Islands of Denmark. — Primitive Signification of the word " Denmark." — A few Statistics about the Island of Sealand. — Remarkable Round Church near Soro. — Sights to be seen at Roeskilde, the Ancient Capital of Denmark. — Its Antique Brick Cathedral. — The last resting place of the Danish Kings, from Harold to Frederick VII. — Religious Toleration in Denmark. — Certificates of Baptism and Confirmation, when necessary. — The village of Om. — Denmark, the land of Antiquities. — Numerous Antiquarian Societies.— From Roeskilde to Copenhagen I

Chapter II

The Merchant's Haven. General Aspects of Copenhagen. — Definition of the Name. — Manner in which the City is Built. — Its low Situation. — Its Quaint Architecture. — Its Drivers forbidden to demand " pour-boire." — Danish Specialties. — Excellence of the Watches. — Personal Appearance of the Inhabitants. — Their gayety contrasted with the stolidity of the Dutch. — Their CONTENTS. PAGS Refinement and Amiability.— Masculine Osculation. — Ele mentary Education. — The Copenhagen Library and Zoo logical Museum. — Literary and Educational Societies. — The Vor Frue Kirke and the Vor Frelsers Kirke. — Similarity of the Citizens of Copenhagen to those of Vienna and Paris. — Thorwaldsen's Museum. — The principal Royal Residence. — Christian IX. and his Children 13

Chapter III

Chronological Collections. The Museum of Northern Antiquities. — Relics of Early Civilization. — The Ethnographical Museum. — One of the most extensive in Europe. — Attempts at Art by Primeval Man. — Collection of the Kings of Denmark. — Mention of a few of the more Famous Curiosities.. — The Oldenborg Horn. — A remarkable Vase of Christian IV.'s Time. — Banqueting Hall in the Palace of Rosenborg. — Number of Vessels annually entering the Port of Copenhagen. — Exports and Imports. — Industry and Enterprise of the Danes. — Island Colonies of Denmark. — Commercial Importance of those in the West Indies. — Steamers between Copenhagen and Reikiavik 24

Chapter IV

The Metropolis of Norway. From Copenhagen to Christiania. — Elsinore. — The Picturesque Fortress of Kronborg. — Holger Danske. — The Kattegat and the Skager Rak. — Their Peculiarities. — The Bay of Christiania. — Derivation of the name Christiania. — Visit of the King. — His Civil List and Literary Abilities. — The Robin Hood of Norway. — His Wonderful Adventures. — Travellers anxious to see the Midnight Sun. — The Railway from Christiania to Trondjhem. — Boy and Girl Postilions. — Carriole Travelling. — The Stations. — I begin my long Tour through Norway CONTENTS. XIII FAGS

Chapter V

Field, Foss, and Fiord. Attaining the summit of Fille Field. — Appearance of the White-capped Mountains. — Sensations on leaving Civilization behind Me. — Pretty Peasant Women.— A very Old Church, Byzantine and Romanesque in Style. — Steaming along the Sogne Fiord. — Features of the Scenery. — Naerofiord. — Farms sprinkled two thousand feet above. — A Queer Turnout. — Plenty of Waterfalls and denser Vegetation. — Remarkable Branches of the Great Fiord. — The Pretty Village of Odde. — The Site of a Metal Norwegian Flag. — A Description of some of the Norwegian Cataracts. — The Ringdalfoss. — Norway the Fatherland of Waterfalls. — Approaching the City of Bergen 45

Chapter VI

Two Old Norse Cities. Bergen once the Capital of Norway. — Its present Population. — German Appearance of the City. — Its Trade in Codfish, Cod-Liver Oil and Herrings. — Its Monstrous Warehouses. — Picturesque Situation of Bergen. — A Concert by Ole Bull. — The Fortnightly Line of Steamers between Bergen and New York. — The few Passengers who were going a portion of my Route. — Intricate and Dangerous Navigation. — -The Necessity of taking two Pilots from Bergen to Hammerfest. — Christiansund. — Its distinctive Character. — The Contents of its Park. — Trondjhem. — Another Town that was once Norway's Capital. — The Restored Cathedral, with its conflicting Architectures. — Olaf the Patron Saint of Norway. — The Necropoli of Norway and Sweden. — Their Desecration. — A Norwegian Funeral Procession. — From Sundsvall to Stockholm 59

Chapter VII

Off and On the Coast. A Traveller's Sensation in Unknown Places. — The Departure from Trondjhem.— Passing the Mountain Torghattan.— Its CONTENTS. PAGK Natural Tunnel.— Mountains as seen from the Sea and Valleys.— Coasting along Nordland.— The Snow-mountains of Svartisen— The three Grand Glacier Systems of Norway. — We anchor near the Town of Mo. — Customs Adopted in Norwegian Churches.— My Difficulty with my Scanty Stock of Norsk.— The Norwegian Clergy.—Ser vices. — Boat-building the Chief Employment. — " Fra Mo bilabama ved Mississippi-Floden". — Extremes Meet 70

Chapter VIII

Crossing the Arctic Circle, Returning down the Fiord. — Flocks of Sea-birds. — The Mountain Hestmando. — Superstition of Norwegian Fishermen. — Passing the Polar Parallel. — Contrasting the Sensations felt at this Point with those experienced in crossing the Equator. — An Hour at Bodo. — The Fishing Banks of the Loffodens. — The Gill-net System. — What becomes of the Fish that are Caught. — Sending Cod-roes to France and Spain. — Dispelling the Illusions of Childhood. — Are Geographies Romances ? — The Truth about the Notorious Maelstrom.— It is a very harmless Affair. — Coast Scenery near the Loffodens. — Mildness of the Climate. — Where Siberian Agriculture Ceases. — Dr. Schtibeler 77

Chapter IX

Farthest Thule. Islands on the West Coast of Norway. — Fishing Stations in the Loffodens. — Scenery from the Arctic Circle to Tromsoe. — Situation of Tromsoe. — Hammerfest. — The most Northern Town in the World. — Its Situation. — Its tumble-down Warehouses and Dwellings. — A Model little Inn where good things could be obtained. — Prevailing odor of Cod-liver Oil. — Seeing it manufactured. — Going to bed at Midnight by Daylight. — An Interesting Granite Column. — Extraordinary Jelly-fish. — Their Cerebral Deficiencies. — The Press in Hammerfest CONTENTS. XV PAGE

Chapter X

Country, Character, and Customs. Dimensions of Norway. — The Ancient Moraines. — Work for the Palæontologist and Geologist. — The Lemmings. — The Manner in which they live and move and have their being. — A Great Scourge to Norway. — Exportation of Valuable Wood. — The Peasant Farmers and their Poverty. — Only themselves to blame. — The Ubiquity of the Potato. — Lack of great Landowners. — No Laws regulating the transmission of Property. — Norway a decidedly " slow " Country.— The People not anxious to make the Traveller's Work easy. — No heavy Taxes in Norway. — A tall, hardy, and long-lived Race. — Interior of the Houses. — Norwegian and Icelandic Dress compared. — Not much Respect shown to the Women. — Lack of Epicurism and Good Living.— Description of their Meals. — Badness of Table Manners. — A Nation of Knife-Swallowers. — Norway a Limited Constitutional Monarchy. — No Nobility. — The Norwegian Parliament. — The Power of the King. — Foreign Trade. — Population 97

CHAPTER XL

A Day at North Cape. Northward from Hammerfest. — The Midnight Sun. — North Cape. — Views therefrom. — The Promontory of Knivskgaelodde. — Looking out toward the Pole. — Oppressive Feeling of Loneliness. — An Enterprising Photographer from Berlin. — What is really the most Northerly Point of Europe. — Competition in getting nearest to the Pole. — An apropos Quotation from Dr. Watts. — Similarity of North Cape to Cape Horn. — Professor Nordenskiold and the Russian Strategists. — Effect of the Midnight Sun at North Cape. — Numerous Species of Fowl. — The Most Northern Surgeon in the World. — How Travellers are Fleeced in the Coasting-Steamers. — I never " Double on my Track." — Imaginary Obstacles placed in my Way CONTENTS. PAGB

Chapter XII

With the Lapps :. By the Sea. The Situation of Lapland. — Short Summers there. — The Lapps as described in 1556. — Their Low Stature. — General Description of their Personal Appearance. — Their Probable Origin. — Signification of " Esquimau." — Number of Lapps. — How they are distributed. — Sea-Lapps in Hammerfest.— I stumble upon a Party made up of this Strange People. — Their Characteristics. — Finkel. — Their great Addiction to this Burning Drink. — My Sentimental Reflections. — A Lapponian Wedding. — The Wedding Service. — No Divorce among the Lapps. — Polygamy in vogue. — Codfish and Seal-Blubber for Lunch. — Russian Trading- Ships. — Endurance of the Lapps. — Handsome Lapps few in number. — -Hideous Treatment of Old People 124

Chapter XIII

With the Lapps : On the Mountain. Maupertuis' Account of the Lapps. — An Early Call. — Food of the Mountain Lapps. — Women and Children. — The Dogs. — Laziness of the Lapps. — Occupation of the Women and Boys. — A Party at Dinner in a Reindeer Tent. — Appearance of the Interior of the Tent. — A Small Dictionary of Lappish Words. — The Language a Finnish Dialect. — Ignorance of the People. — Specimen of a Song. — Lappish Mythology. — No noteworthy Progress in Civilization. — Work of the Schoolmaster and the Missionary. — General estimate of Lapponian Character. — What Thomson, the Poet, says of them. — Gradual dying out of the Race. — A People without a Future 140

Chapter XIV

The Reindeer. Inspecting the Reindeer. — Dogs like Arctic Foxes.— The Way in which they Work.— They enjoy the Sport of getting the Reindeer into a Corral.— A Herd of eight hundred CONTENTS. XVII PAGE Animals. — Description of their Appearance. — Reindeer Milk. — Resemblance of its taste to Butter. — The liberated Herd mounting the steep hills. — Wild Deer in Northern Scandinavia, Spitzbergen, and Nova ZembU. — Use of the Reindeer in Travelling. — Reckoning the Wealth of the Laplanders. — White Lichen or Moss. — Pemmican. — The Cheese made from Reindeer Milk. — The Rosy Side of Lapponian Life 154

Chapter XV

Over the Kiolen Fiellen. Ignorant Norwegians. — A Small Maelstrom. — Rognan. — Singularity of its Appearance. — A sorry Supper. — Another look at an Interior. — Pleasant Encounter with an English Sportsman. — Description of his handsome "hut." — The luxuries of Civilization in that out-of-the-way spot. — The curt Fashion in which my Guide obtained for me shelter for the Night. — I go to bed flanked by tallow-candles.— A strange Breakfast. — Junkersdalen. — Salvaagtind. — A seven-inch Toilet. — Black Bread, old Cheese, and sour Milk. — Appearance of the Farm-houses. — The Boats employed in that Region 164

Chapter XVI

Among the Happy Innocents. Jaggvik. — Going to Bed under Difficulties. — I manage to accomplish the Task. — Boating with a Beautiful Swede. — Tracing Characteristics from the Bronze Age to the Present. — Arjepluog. — Annoying obtrusiveness of the People. — Leaving behind the snow-covered Mountains. — A Wonderful Vehicle. — I ride upon my knees for half a Day. — The Church at Avidjaur. — The Swedish Post-stations. — How Children are kept in Safety.— Delay in getting Horses. — Another singular means of Conveyance. — Riding upon a Tar-truck. — Rocknas. — Pitea. — Immense Quantity of Timber there. — A Hotel near the Arctic Circle. — Wonderful Relishes before Dinner. — From Pitea to Gefle CONTENTS. XVIII PAGE

Chapter XVII

An Excursion to the Copper and Iron Mines. The Copper Mines of Dalecarlia. — Progress of Mining Operations. — Situation of Gefle. — The Iron Foundry at Sandviken. — Copper-roofs covered with Verdigris. — The ''Great Copper Mountain." — The Descent into the Mines. — Dalecarlia's Two great River Basins. — Ancient Simplicity of Manners there. — Engelbrecht. — Dannemora. — The Elfkarley Cataracts. — The Dannemora Iron Mines. — The best time to visit them. — Lack of the necessary Fuel. — Mining the most important Department of Swedish Industry. — The Silver Mine at Sala. — A Mountain of Iron named Gellivara. — Statistics in regard to Sweden's chief Mineral Industries 189

Chapter XVIII

Upsala and Linnæus. From Orbyhus to Upsala.— Where Odin, Thor, and Frey are Buried. — Old Upsala. — Olaus Rudbeck. — A Church that Antedates the Christian Era. — Upsala anciently the Metropolis of Sweden. — Chief Attractions of the Place. — The University. — Dress of the Students. — Priceless Literary treasures in Upsala. — The Oldest Monument of the Teutonic Tongue. — The Mora Stones. — Their Resemblance to those of Stonehenge. — Linnæus, the Pliny of Sweden. — His Residence. — Reverence in preserving his Relics. — His great Vanity Illustrated. — His love of Eulogy.— From Upsala to Stockholm.— The Palace of Skokloster.— Sigtuna.— Its History.— The Palace of Rosenborg 197

Chapter XIX

Stockholm. Various Venices.— Arrival at Stockholm.— Meaning of the Name.-A very Picturesque City.— Narrow and ill-paved Streets.— The Riddarsholm Kirke.— Remains of Gustavus CONTENTS. XIX PAGE Adolphus. — The National Museum. — Magnificence and Variety of its Contents. — Relics of Charles XII. — Molin's " The Wrestlers." — A Brutal Form of Duelling. — Bayard Taylor's Norwegian Pastoral. — Extensive Libraries in Swe den. — A Latin MS. of the Gospels. — Interesting Inscrip tion. — The Devil's Bible. — A MS. written on three hun dred Asses' hides. — Swedenborg's house. — Strange Experi ences of the Seer. — Public Recreation in Stockholm. — The Djurgarden. — Peculiar Bathing Customs. 206

Chapter XX

The Gotha Canal. Origin of the Canal. — Its Dimensions. — Admirably adapted to domestic and foreign Trade. — Lake Malar and its many Islands — Lake Wettern. — Trollhattan, the Home of the Water-Witches. — Seven leaping Torrents. — Gothenburg. — Its Population and Communication with other Cities. — Express Trains from Gothenburg. — Comparison between Sweden and Norway. — Points of Similitude and Points of Difference. — Sweden has one hundred and fifty Newspapers. — Her superiority to Norway in that respect. — Emigration from Norway and Sweden. — The little Island of Bartholomew 221

Chapter XXI

The Grand Duchy of Finland. I start for Helsingsors, the Capital of Finland. — The Rocky Islands on the Swedish Coast. — Abo. — Its old Castles and red Houses. — Early History of Finland. — Approach to Helsingsors. — -Its Fine Harbor. — It looks more like a Russian than a Swedish Town. — The Botanical Garden and surrounding Views. — The University. — Professor Nordenskiold. — Prominent Events in his Career. — His Latest Explorations. — Total Expenses of the Expedition. — The Northeast passage around Europe and Asia prophesied by Mercator three centuries ago. — From Helsingsors to Wiborg. — Excellent Post-roads. — Peasant Population of Finland. — Antiquity of the Finnic Race XX CONTENTS. PAGI

Chapter XXII

Kalevala, the Great National Epic. The Finnish National Sagas. — Elias Lonnrot. — Finland's Great Poem, the Kalevala. — Max Mtiller's Opinion of it. — The Iliad of Finland. — Wainaimoinen, the Finnish Plomer. — The several Translations of the Kalevala. — Some Specimen Verses. — A Song entitled " The Wooing". — Contrast with "Hiawatha". — Weekly Finland Newspapers. — The Drama, Music, Painting, and Sculpture in Finland. — The Falls of Imatra. — Lake Ssima. — The Saima Canal. — Great Expense of the Structure. — The Rapids like those of Niagara River below the Suspension Bridge. — Trout-fishing. — From Wiborg to St. Petersburg. — Farewell to the Reader 240 Index

Chapter I

A Sea-Girt Kingdom. Having left Paris by the afternoon express, the following noon you arrive in Hamburg. From this great bustling city of northern Germany, three routes lead to the capital of Denmark. The railway runs to the quaint old Hanseatic town of Lubeck, whence you may go by steamer to and across the Baltic, in about sixteen hours, directly to Copenhagen. Another course permits you to cover nearly the entire distance by land and by rail, passing northerly through the old Danish duchies of Holstein and Schleswig, then over a narrow belt of the sea — a mere ferry traversed in fifteen minutes, — to and through the island of Fyen, and thence by steamer in an hour-and-a-half, to Korsor, a town on the western coast of Sealand, and so on to the capital. This is a journey of twelve hours. The remaining communication is by rail to Kiel, thence to Korsor by steamer, and then by rail again to Copen hagen, requiring in all about fourteen hours.

The first mentioned route offers an opportunity tc the traveller of visiting Lubeck with its decaying walls, its great gates, its proud towers, its spacious squares, its Gothic churches and gabled houses of red and black bricks, and its general mediæval aspect. The voyage by sea, however, is long and tedious. The second route is the shortest as regards time, the longest as regards distance. But the objects of interest are too many and too varied to be seen to advantage from a car-window ; so constant a demand upon one's attention makes the journey tiresome despite the shortness of the time. The route which I have mentioned third in order is preferable, because it includes some glimpses of Holstein and a visit to the powerful naval station of Kiel in addition to the rail transit, with occasional stoppages, in the beautiful and interesting island of Sealand.

The reader is of course aware that Hamburg is the third grand commercial emporium of Europe, the first and second being London and Liverpool. It is also one of the great northern ports whence so many Ger mans leave their Fatherland in search of new homes in the New World. An interesting fact connected with this matter of German emigration has recently been made public by the Statistical Bureau at Berlin. The exodus from Hamburg during the first six months of the year 1880 was three times greater than in 1879, and four times greater than in 1878 or 1877. This en larged emigration is attributed by the clerical press to religious persecution ; the radical newspapers say it is an unavoidable concomitant of political reaction ; while the socialist journals are quite certain it is due to the pressure of increased taxation and increased cost of living.

If to the latter explanation is added the ex tremely low scale of wages now prevailing there; we shall probably arrive at the true cause of such an unpre cedented emigration from Germany. The railway from Hamburg to Kiel passes through an undulating country varied by pretty lakes, scanty forests, turf-bogs and small cultivated tracts. There are few villages and, with but two exceptions, these are very small. Kiel, which is situated at the head of a long narrow bay of like name, possesses the finest anchorage and the best winter harbor in the Baltic. The water is so deep that the largest man-of-war may approach without danger close to the shore. On these accounts the Germans have selected it as the chief station for their navy, and are erecting such invulner able fortifications that it will soon merit the title of the Sevastopol of the Baltic.

On the east bank of the harbor are extensive dockyards, which may be viewed upon application at the marine-office. The Germans have also established here a capital training-school for the education of youths who are intended for service in the navy. Kiel itself is one of the oldest towns in Holstein. Its present population is 38,000, which enu meration includes a large garrison. Beautiful walks and drives abound in the environs. In about an hour after leaving Kiel our little packet steams out into the Baltic, gliding between formidable batteries and fortresses on each side of the entrance of the fiord. We are soon out of sight of land and in a few hours more obtain our first view of Denmark, — the fertile and wooded island called Langeland. This contains three or four little towns, one of which is distinguished as being the birthplace of Œrsted, the dis coverer of electro-magnetism and one of the greatest physicists of modern times.

We pass between this island and the larger one of Fyen on the left, and then cross an arm of the sea, called the Great Belt, to Kor sor and Sealand. The islands of Denmark are so crowded together as almost to close the entrance to the Baltic. Their sur face is uniformly low ; in this respect indeed they are surpassed by but one country in Europe, namely Hol land. The highest point in Denmark is only 550 feet above the sea-level. Owing to these facts of position and surface, it is subject, especially during the summer months, to storms of wind and rain. The winters are sometimes severe, though the climate might be regarded on the whole as temperate. The scenery is of a quiet and monotonous character, which charms by its grace, but lacks power to inspire. The surface, which is generally fertile, is covered with meadows, cornfields, and forests of beech.

The largest province of Denmark, however, the peninsula of Jutland, is for the most part sandy and barren. More than half the country is cul tivated or, to speak more accurately, is either in grass, or lying fallow, or holds crops ripening for the harvest. More than 2,500,000 acres are said to form a permanent pasturage, and therefore, as might be expected, the work of the dairy forms a very extensive branch of industry. The name Denmark is supposed to have been de rived from the ancient Teutonic words dane or thane, a prince or lord, and mark, a frontier country, thus cor responding in some degree to the German markgraf schaft, a frontier country confided to the protection of an earl. This may be the correct etymology of the word, for though Denmark has been an independent kingdom more than a thousand years, it was at one time subject to the dominion of the Goths.