Around and about South America ... With maps ... Second edition

Front matter

H. M. THE EMPEROR OF BRAZIL AROUND AND ABOUT SOUTH AMERICA TWENTY MONTHS OF QUEST AND QUERY BY FEANK VINCENT AUTHOR OF "THE LAND OF THE WHITE ELEPHANT," "THROUGH AND THROUGH THE TROPICS," "NORSK, LAPP, AND FINN," ETC. WITS MAPS, PLANS, AND ILLUSTRATIONS SECOND EDITION NEW YORK D. APPLETON AND COMPANY Copyright, 1890, By D. APPLETON AND COMPANY. TO H. M. DOM PEDRO IL, EMPEROR OF BRAZIL, SCHOLAR AND SCIENTIST, PATRON OF ARTS AND LETTERS, STERLING STATESMAN AND MODEL MONARCH, WHOSE REIGN OF HALF A CENTURY HAS BEEN ZEALOUSLY AND SUCCESSFULLY DEVOTED TO PUBLIC INSTRUCTION, INDUSTRIAL ENTERPRISE, AND THE ABOLITION OF SLAVERY THROUGHOUT THE VAST AND OPULENT "EMPIRE OF THE SOUTHERN CROSS," THIS WORK IS, BY SPECIAL PERMISSION, MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY HIS MAJESTY'S HUMBLE AND OBEDIENT SERVANT, THE AUTHOR.

Preface

. My recent journey through South America included visits to all the capitals, chief cities, and important sea ports; expeditions into the interior of Brazil and the Ar gentine Republic; and ascents of the Parana, Paraguay, Amazon, Orinoco, and Magdalena Eivers. It covered about thirty-five thousand miles, and forced me to realize that our great southern continent contains twice the area and half the population of the United States. It has been my aim and aspiration to grasp salient feat ures and emphatic characteristics, and to delineate them with a careful conciseness that shall beget a correct and lively general impression. The difficulty of carrying out this design within so com paratively small a space will at once be perceived by the discriminating reader, and will, I hope, induce him to extend to the present volume the same leniency which both press and public have bestowed upon my former contribu tions to the universal and ever incomplete library of travel, adventure, and discovery.

Postscript. — The unexpected change of government in Brazil, which has just occurred, found this narrative already in type, and hence it is published as originally written. Nothing, however, has been asserted of the Empire which VI

PREFACE.

. ought to be revoked ; while for the Republic one should not vouch until time and trial have demonstrated its fit ness and stability. In the words of Dom Pedro, " I shall always have kindly remembrances of Brazil and hopes for its prosperity." F. V. PAGE v CONTENTS. Preface

Chapter I. Outward Bound

The Acapulco's lonely voyage — San Salvador is now Watling Island — Aspinwall Harbor and the town itself — The French town of Christophe Colomb — Fever, filth, and flood — South American revolutions — How ringleaders are treated — Features of the railway to Panama — If. de Lesseps's interoceanic canal — French settlements and mammoth excavations — Wages of laborers — The canal might possibly have been completed in the year 2013 — Hacks at Panama — General characteristics of the town — Matters of interest to the archæologist and architect — Cosmopolitan population — Ici l'on parle Francais, and also English — A newspaper in three languages . . . . . • . . 1

Chapter II. On To Guayaquil

Muskets and cutlasses give piratical remedies — Panama Railway extortion paralleled — My first attempts in Spanish — They fail beyond my most sanguine expectations — Reptiles and birds in the Galapago9 Islands — Why species unknown to other parts of the world exist there — An Ecuadorian Botany Bay — Variation upon Alexander Selkirk — Scenes in the Gulf of Guayaquil — Features of the town of that name — Samplerooms and senoritas — Preparations for going over the Andes to Quito — Advantage of taking your board and lodging with you — How Guayaquil fever affects one — Chimborazo by moonlight — Ecuador's only railway — Traversing tropic jungles at the rate of ten miles an hour — Forests impenetrable even to sight — Puerile muleteers and gentle mules — Other qualities of the Ecuadorian animal — Two soups for dinner — Lack of culinary cleanliness 9 CHAPTER in.

OVER THE CORDILLERA. The seven racial varieties in South America— Indian population of Quito —Intense cold experienced at night — The ruined city Latacunga — A CONTENTS. VIII PAGE 31 two million dollar road — Shivering on the equator — A diligence drawn by mules — Brutality of postilions — Volcanoes along the route — The approach to Quito — Complexions and costumes there — Architectural traits — The women and their mantillas — Democracy in church worship — Army uniform — Lucifer in state presiding over the tortures of Avernus 19

Chapter IV. Quito Paradise Of Priests

System of the Andes — Situation of Quito — Rectangular arrangement of the streets — Climate — Peculiarities of the cemeteries — The penitentiary — Strange manner of apportioning justice — Ecuadorian vicissitudes — Market produce — Congressional buildings — Monasteries of Quito — A paradise for priests, a pandemonium for the public — Religious paintings — Effigies of the virgin — Unique furniture— America unrepresented in Quito — Foreigners in business — Place they hold in society — Apathetic natives — Importance of investing in real estate — Hard and soft dollars — Depreciation of the paper money of Quito — No foreign physicians there — Telegrams paid in postage-stamps . . . .28

Chapter V. Breakfasting In An Active Volcano

Quito's hospital — Lung and throat troubles prevalent — Lunatics and lepers — Educational opportunities — Pichincha, or the boiling mountain — View frcm the summit — Difference between the Andes and the Himalayas — Brother volcanoes of Pichincha — Detailed description of it — A good breakfast is not less good inside its crater — Returning to Guayaquil — Violence of tropical rains — Bad roads — Abruptness of the landscape changes — Plantations alternate with jungles — Chicha, guarapo, and sugar-cane juice contrasted — Military bands at Bodegas

Chapter VI. Coastwise To Callao

Approach to Payta — Appearance of the dilapidated town — Rich inland country — The railway to Piura — The coast of Peru and Bolivia — Description of a balsa — A few small villages — Memories of Incas — Pacasmayo — Samanco — Views on the Pacasmayo — Comparison with Norwegian scenes — Casma and Supe — The town of Huacho — Foreign merchants — Callao — Appearance of the roadstead — Interior of the city — English and American railways — Lima — A national anniversary — Lima ladies — Horse-races — General Iglesias — General Caceres — Revolutions smoldering beneath public festivities CONTENTS. IX PAGE

Chapter VII. Lima

The famous cathedral — General appearance of this celebrated building Its interior — Poor carvings and paintings — Pizarro's bones— View of the city from Cerro de San Cristobal — Tram-cars and hackney-coaches — Roofs and balconies — Uninflammable brick — The fire-brigades Houses of Congress— Statue of General Bolivar — Hall of Senators Hall of Deputies — Principal market — National Library — Column of the 2d of May, in memory of the Peruvians who fell in the battle of Callao Bay in 1866— The 2d of May hospital, an institution any country might be proud of — The Oroya Railway — Revolutionary complications — Circulating mediums — The mint — The Esmeralda — Alameda de los Descalzos — The general cemetery, or Panteon . . .53

Chapter VIII. Glimpses Of The Peruvians

Lima's public gardens — Pavilion of the President — Promenade ground of the Lima belles — Residences of the wealthy — Advantage of one-story houses — Rich and luxurious appointments — House-rent and cost of furnishing — Mode of life — Foreign education — Beauty of the young girls — The duenna — The masking mantilla — Senoritas and cigarettes — Female culture — Depressing climate — Typical religious procession — Social amenities of the saints — The church-bell nuisance — The theatre in Lima— Bull-Ring — Clubs — Ball-room ...... 64

Chapter IX. Railroading Above The Clouds

Mollendo — Its uninviting aspect — Railway between Mollendo and Arequipa — Places by the way— Steepness of the hills — Misti, Charchani, and Coropuna — The sand-dunes — Bearding Nature in her fastnesses — Mr. J. M. Thorndike's residence near Arequipa — The railway headquarters — The cathedral — Railway companions — The famous Verrugas bridge on the Oroya Railway — Some engineering particulars — Ubinas — Llamas, alpacas, and vicu5a8 — Paucity of inhabitants between Arequipa and pUno — Mirage — Lakes Saracocha and Cachipuscana — The highest point on the railway 72

Chapter X. The Acme Of Steamer Navigation

A Peruvian curiosity — The Anonymous Company for Exploration of the Inca Sepulchres — Lake Titicaca — Remains of the naturalist James Orton — Copacabana — Sorata, Huani Potosi, Illimani — The Andes east of Lake Titicaca — The port of Chililaya — The journey to La Paz — Abundance CONTENTS. X PAGE of sheep and cattle— Situation of La Paz— The Grand Plaza— Native passion for gambling — Parisian costumes in vogue — Hall of Deputies — Incipient cathedral of the Greek order of architecture — Troops in La Paz — Constant exercise and discipline 81

Chapter XI. La Paz

— THE QUAINT. Population — View of the city from an adjacent bluff — Stage-road and mule-trails — Kerosene-lamps — Absence of sidewalks — Scarcity of wood — Position of the Alameda — Suggestion with respect to statues — Bustling streets — A large market — Great display of vegetables and fruit — " Yankee notions " in full force — Flower-women — Mode of contracting for bouquets — Hotels — Senor Manuel Vicente Ballivian — Thirty-five hundred books and pamphlets all about Bolivia — " Barba Azul " at the theatre — Style of dress at the opera — Newspapers well represented — The Banco Nacional — Trade with Europe — Product of the silver-mines —Those of Potosi still fertile 89

CHAPTER XIL VOYAGING TO VALPARAISO.

Environs of La Paz — Bare feet of the women — Native music and dances — A scene of general ebriety — Gambling very popular — A pathetic instance of intoxication — The Aymaras — Dr. H. H. Rusby — From Mollendo to Valparaiso — Arica — Pisagua — Iquique — Tocopilla — Cobija — Autofagasta — Caldera — Coquimbo — Valparaiso as seen from the sea — The harbor — Statue of Lord Cochrane — Female conductors on the tram-cars — Juan Fernandez — A pleasure-trip there — Robinson Crusoe's look-out — Commemoration tablet 98

Chapter XIII. The Capital Of Chili

The railway to Santiago — Vino del Mar — Cerro de Santa Lucia — Benjamin Vicuna Mackenna — Plaza Independencia — The Capitol — Monument in memory of the holocaust at the Jesuits' church — Botanical and Zoological Gardens — Large foreign element in Santiago — Sworded policemen — En route for Montevideo — The overland routes from Chili to the Argentine Republic — Snow-houses — Proposed Uspallata railway — Status of Chili — Her revenues and foreign trade — Matched against Peru — Leaving Valparaiso — Aconcagua as seen from the harbor . . . 107 CHAFTER XIV. FIORD AND FUEGIAN. Lota — Senora Cousifio, the wealthiest woman in Chili — Labor omnia vincit — The " Countess of Monte Cristo " — She is worth hundreds of millions CONTENTS. XI PAGE of dollars — Chiloe — The Chonos Archipelago — Wellington Island — Messier Channel — Surrounding scenery — Mount Stokes — Fantastic Chilian mountains — How they contrast with others — Chilian bays and inlets — The Fuegians— They are by no means a beautiful or attractive race — Their favorite mode of barter — Their tastes in general — Could their children become civilized ? 1 17

Chapter XV. The Globe's Southernmost Town

Melancholy localities — The Strait of Magellan — Cape Froward and Cape Horn — Neighboring mountains — Punta Arenas — Its products and population — Strange vicissitudes that make people drift there — Ostrich rugs — Contrast between the western and the eastern half of the Strait of Magellan — False impressions about Terra del Fuego — Its climate less rigorous than Canada's — The Yahgans and the Onas — Contrast of the two tribes — The Falkland Islands — Cape Pembroke — Stanley Harbor — Appearance of the settlement — Alfred the Little — 0 Snobbery, how many absurdities are committed for thy sake ! . . . . 127

Chapter XVI. The Forlorn Falklands

Consuls and vice-consuls at Stanley — Execrable climate — Sunday is kept there with true British rigidity — The Falkland group — Good harbors abound — Cattle and products — Lafone's negotiations — John Davis — De Bougainville — Beginning a lonely voyage — Patagonia not so utterly dreary as supposed — Soil and population — Difference between the Fuegians and the Patagonians — The ostrich and the rhea — Ostrich rugs cheap there — Ostrich-culture needed — Pumas and condors — The Argentine Government paying increased attention to Patagonia — A railroad from Bahia Blanca to San Luis in contemplation . . .136

Chapter XVII. Montevideo The Attractive

The Paran4 and the Rio de la Plata— Bay of Montevideo— El Cerro— The city of Montevideo — Its position — Gunboats of many nationalities — Architectural aspect of the town— Large foreign element^-The cathedral clock — Grand plaza — Government Building — Paso Molino — Basque music — The opera-house — Ocular flirtation — Feminine street fashions— General Santos— Uruguayan soldiers— Peculiarity of their uniform— Strange method of making recruits — Do prisons create patriots? CONTENTS. XII PAGE

Chapter XVIII

TnE METROPOLIS OF THE RIVER PLATE. On to Buenos Ayres — The " Norte " and the " Pampero " — Queer river-craft — The city of Buenos Ayres — Streets and sidewalks — North American names — Parisian splendor of shops — The Exchange — Cosmopolitan characteristics — Plaza ds la Victoria — Statue of General San Martin — Municipal buildings — The Recoleta — Mural burial not used — Handsome villas — Banks — Theatres — The Politeano Argentino — The city of La Plata — Public buildings there — Pampas — Importation of reapers — Inexpensive railways — Level nature of the country . . . .15.1

Chapter XIX. Toward The Heart Of The Continent

A wonderful rocking-stone — Similar ones nearer home — Glacial action places them — Matto-Grosso — Prevailing style of river-vessel — Rosario — Parana— Goya — Gran Chaco — The camelotes — Alligators and carpinchos — Asuncion — Effects of the war — Palace of Lopez — Hotel Hispano-Americano — How the city is laid out — Mediævo-Oriental aspect — The women outnumber the men — The town-hall — Custom-house — Unfinished' opera-house — Cathedral — Absence of male worshipers — A solitary monument 159

Chapter XX

A COUNTRY OF WOMEN. Preponderance of market-women — Great variety of produce — Buyers carry home their purchases — Dress of women — Handsome girls and ugly hags — Smoking universal — Indian blood among Paraguayans — The currency — Salient features of the cemetery — Genuine grief and perfunctory praying — The town of Paraguari — Its situation— Its means of communication with other places — Proposed route — Orange-women — Corrientes — It is not without a statue to Liberty — Biblioteca popular — Indisputable evidences of civilization 167

Chapter XXI. On The Trail Of The Jesuits

Difficult voyaging — Banks of the upper Parana — Procrastination of the natives — A coach like the Swiss diligence universally used in these parts— 'Character of the landscape — The Gaucho — Between Itusaingo and Posadas — Songless birds — Posadas — Encarnacion — It is a street rather than a town — The reducciones — Abdon Ahumada — Incidents of travel — Swarms of butterflies — Hard life for civilized travellers — Primitive bathing-house — Ingenuous natives — Scantiness of female costume CONTENTS. XIII PAGE 176 — Every kind of ornamentation popular — Why do mosquitoes exist ? — The river Iguassu — Seiior Adam's garden — Qualities of the Parana .

Chapter XXII. The Niagara Of South America

The mouth of the Iguassu — Making up a party for the falls — Wild animals along the shore — The Tupi Indians— Plague of insects — Jerked beef good for the hungry — Pursuing sleep under difficulties — We begin the hard part of our journey — Rock-climbing at 115° Fahr. — Bearding the jaguar in his den — The carrapato, the pest of the forest — The jigger likewise unendurable — Rewarded at last with a view of the great falls — They constitute the Niagara of South America — Prototypes of the "Canadian" and "American" cataracts — A roar that can be heard twenty miles — I christen them " Daly Falls," in honor of the President of the American Geographical Society 186

Chapter XXIII

A PARAGUAYAN RANCH. Exact position of the Daly Falls — Through-express routes non-existent in South America — Messrs. Uribi's establishment — A typical Paraguayan farm — Enormous ant-hills — Yerba forests — Primitive life of the Indians — A ride through the forest — Delightful life on Tupurupucu ranch — Ox-carts with yerba-mate — All but a duel — San Tome — It contains the ubiquitous plaza — On the way from San Borje — Railways, present and prospective — Itaqui — Mat6 and cigarettes — How the former is served — Sipping through silver tubes — Gathering and preparing mate for consumption 195

Chapter XXIV. Down The Uruguay

Aimc§ Bonpland — His work — Restauracion — Ceibo — Monte Caseros — Concordia — Paysandu — Fray Bentos — Liebig's famous meat-extract factory — More than twenty-five hundred thousand cattle slaughtered by the company in twenty years — The matador — How animals are lassoed and killed — Incredible velocity with which bullocks are slain and sliced — Process of making the extract — Eight million jars sold annually — On to Rio de Janeiro — Dangers of La Plata — Superiority in some respects of French, Italian, and German steamers 204

Chapter XXV. Rio De Janeiro

The harbor — Sugar-Loaf Rock — Beautiful appearance of the city from the water by night — Corcovado— I see the harbor by moonlight, starlight, gaslight, and daylight — Difference between Rio Janeiro and Valparaiso CONTENTS. PAGE 212 — Large ironclads — Narrow streets — Picturesque houses — Singularity of the signs — Tramways and public vehicles — The great show-sight of Rio — Physical and mechanical attributes of the road to Corcovado — An opportunity Tbeophile Gautier would have improved — A pass that outdoes any on Mount Washington or the Righi — The wondrous pano rama that is unfolded — A mid-air vision that takes away the breath — Emotions aroused by the outlook from the top of Corcovado

Chapter XXVI. Street Scenes

Their inexhaustibility — Morbid curiosity of the Brazilians — With them staring is a fine art — Nonchalance of store-keepers — The people are inquisitive rather than acquisitive — A splendid residence sacrificed to curiosity — Nuisance of music practice — Meager appearance of the white Brazilians — Coolness of neighboring hill-resorts — Yellow fever — Proportionof deaths — Causes of yellow fever and small-pox. — Bad drainage, lack of fresh air, stagnation of water, corruption of garbage — Apparent extravagance of prices — The real explanation — Rio's market — Negresses — Turkey - sellers — Milkmen — The Carnival — Danger of wearing a silk hat — Merry maskers — Toleration of customs that should be obsolete 221

Chapter XXVII. Public Buildings And Gardens

Botanical Gardens — Their situation — An arborescent gallery — Wonderful Royal palms — Campo Sant' Anna — Cascade Grotto — Small influence of the priesthood in Brazil — Features of a grand requiem — Few handsome public edifices — The splendid Misericordia Hospital — Supervised by Sisters of Charity — Academy of Fine Arts — The Dom Pedro II. Theatre — Military band of seventy-five mulattoes — The Emperor's box — Complexions of the audience — Results of miscegenation — His Majesty arrives amid silence — Distribution of prizes — A local poet shines — The public reserves its enthusiasm for comic operas 231

Chapter XXVIII. Environs Of Rio

National Library — National Museum — Contributions by foreign naturalists and savans — Dr. Ladislau Netto — Astronomical observatory — Historical, Geographical, and Ethnographical Institute of Brazil — Tijuca — Whyte's Hotel — The " Chinese View " — Petropolis — A Brazilian Governor's Island — Raiz do Serra — Various languages that assail one's ears — Foreign ministers make Petropolis their summer home — It resembles an old German town — Theresopolis — Organ Mountains — The Switzerland of Brazil — Piedade — Beautiful scenery .... CONTENTS. XV

Chapter XXIX. The Emperor Of Brazil

PAGE San Cristoval, the Emperor's palace — His Majesty receives me — Dom Pedro described — His tact, energy, culture, and humanity — His pleasant recollections of the United States — His address, while in this country, before the American Geographical Society — A democratic emperor — Brazilian royalties — Dom Pedro's intellectual and physical activity — Untiring manner in which, both at home and abroad, he admits alternately the claims of business and pleasure — Princess Isabella — Size of Brazil — National finances — The Riachuelo, the admiral's flag-ship — The Brazilian navy — The monitor Javari — Discomfort of a voyage on such a vessel 252

Chapter XXX. The Province Of San Paulo

The richest coffee region of Brazil — Scenery along the road — Position of San Paulo — Headquarters of the coffee interest — Campinas — Manor-houses — Ignorance, indolence, loveliness, and content of the women — Brazilian slavery — Provisions of 1871 — Later legislation — Contemplated revolt in 1886 — Causes of dissatisfaction — Immediate and unconditional emancipation granted in 1888 — Festivities on May 18th, 19th, and 20th of that year — Civic and educational processions — Free theatrical performances — Santos — Views from the summit of Serra do Mar — Unhealthiness of the seaport — The Barra 259

Chapter XXXI

A TRIP TO MORRO VELHO. The province of Minas-Geraes — Proposed tour — A splendid ride in the Celeridade— Along the Piabanha— Valley of the Parahybuna River- Railroad and steamboat lines — Queluz— A town more dead than alive — Doctors practice medicine " pour passer le temps " — Prevalence of lepers — Hippolyte, the guide— Habits of muleteers and cart-drivers— Ouro Branco— Terrific thunder-showers — Rough specimen of a Brazilian pousada — Laced bed-linen amid filth and squalor— A knifeless dinner Caxones — Strange ecclesiastical emblems upon crosses — The latter became disheartening on account of tragic associations ascribed to them 267 CHAPTER XXXn. DOWN THE GREAT GOLD-MINE. Congonhas— It is a hamlet, but nevertheless contains a theatre and a cathedral Mr. George Chalmers, superintendent of the San Juan del CONTENTS.

XVI PAGE 294 Rey Mining Company — Descending the Morro Velho mine — The man ner in which the trip is made — Rumblings and reverberations inside the mine — The air is pure, but the environment is pandemoniac — Gangs of men singing while at work — Dore and Dante would have been at home there — Dynamite in constant demand — The way you reach daylight again — Contented^ troglodytes — Colored people at the Casa Grande — Africa let loose — Baiting the bull — Slaves speak their native language — Ceaseless clatter of the mills — " Timbuctoo " — Mine and mills employ 1,500 persons of nine nationalities — The gold troop . . . 276

Chapter XXXIII. On The Rio Das Velhas

Between Morro Velho and Jaguara — Sahara — Santa Luzia — A closet bedroom like those in New York flats — An automatic corn-smasher — Jaguara — The buildings going to ruin — Bats and owls have it all to themselves — Method of catching serpents — Amenities of convict life in Santa Luzia — Hotel-keeping in Brazil — Ouro Preto — Mules and horses in Brazil contrasted with those of Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia — The roads and wayside inns — The peak of Itacolumi — Ouro Preto consists chiefly of one thoroughfare 285

Chapter XXXIV. Circling Back To Rio

A Tyrolese town suggested — Ouro Preto is the capital of one of the finest provinces of Brazil — Municipal buildings — Brazilian sense of time — Church of Antonio Dias — School of Mines — Off for Teixeiras — Marianna and San Sebastian — Apparent preponderance of negroes — Europeans in Minas-Geraes — Yankee clocks and sewing-machines — Bread and eggs not to be had for the asking — Noise and shallow politeness of people at the hotels — From Teixeiras to San Geraldo — A crooked railway — Remarkable bit of engineering — The distance to Canto Gallo— Over the mountains thither — Route to Nictheroy — Nova Friburgo — Serra da Boa Vista — The Fell system of railway — The peak of Tijuca — Nictheroy — An exquisite panorama wherewith to close the day .

Chapter XXXV. The Seconh City Of Brazil

Farewell to Rio — Bay of Bahia — Situation of the city — Residences on the bluff — No public buildings of special merit — Open-air market — Muscular development of the negroes — Sedan-chairs — Mediæval streets — The old Government House — The Municipal Hall — The plaza and its surroundings — Tramways in Bahia — Rio Vermelho — The "seven stations " — Public Garden — A favorite promenade — Cachoeira — Landing CONTENTS. XVII PAOE the mail in a bottle — Mr. Joseph Mawson, Superintendent of the Bra zilian Imperial Central Bahia Railway — Along the course of the Para guassu River — Caverns not made by man — Diamond-washings 304

Chapter XXXVI. On The San Francisco

From Bahia to Penedo — Aracaju — President's palace — House of Delegates — Piassabossu — Penedo— It exports cotton, sugar, aud hides — Steep streets — Beggars in abundance — Religious procession — The people are religious but untheological — How Good Friday was observed — Effigies of Judas Iscariot — From Penedo to Piranhas — Propria — Traipu — Threading the tortuous San Francisco — Pao d'Assucar — Apparent inaccessibility of Piranhas — Absence of good hotels — The railway from Piranhas to Jatoba — Horses and mules still employed for transportation — People of Piranhas — Pedra do Sino, or bell-stone . . . 315

Chapter XXXVII. The King Of Rapids

From Piranhas to Sinimbu — Rapids of Paulo Affonso — The vaqueiro and his family — Vai-vem — Seven great cataracts — Inferno and Arcadia combined — " Emperor's View " — Vampire Grotto — Locality for a prospective Cataract House — The village of Jatoba — It is without a hotel — How travelers may fare — Cataracts of Itaparica — Resounding roar — Lawless character of Jatoba and Piranhas — Capital punishment non-existent in Brazil — Parisian clock in Piranhas — Love-songs through the night — The town of Maceio 326

Chapter Xxxviii. The

" CITY OF THE REEF." Pernambuco — It possesses the essential characteristics of a city — Country-houses of rich merchants — Recife — Custom-house and Arsenal of War — President's house and gardens — Theatre — School of Fine Arts — Hospital of Dom Pedro II. — House of Deputies — Cemetery — Public market — Building of the Commercial Association — Sugar and cotton interests — Private residences in Pernambuco — Village of Caxanga — Great variety of vegetable produce — New reservoir and water-works — Olinda as a suburb — Predominance of churches and convents — Theological seminary — Palmares — Mandioc and beans — The engenhos, or sugar-mills — Cape Saint Roque — San Luiz — Para .... 335

Chapter XXXIX. An Equatorial Emporium

Para is also called Belem — Its situation — Public market — Botanical Gardens, so-called — Pretty dwelling-houses — Variable climate — Large it CONTENTS. PAGE 344 opera-house — A leaderless band — Audiences enter and exit en masse — Manrico passes round the hat — Bragan9a — Forest intricacies and luxuriance — Vagaries of tree-growth — Mr. E. S. Rand's gardens — Ama zonian passenger-line — Idleness of the voyagers — Amazon Valley, the country of hammocks — Beautiful specimens on the Rio Negro — Pre vailing character of the Amazon — Magnificent scene at the mouth of the Xingu — A botanist's paradise — Palms in exhaustless varieties

Chapter XL. Upon The Sea-like Amazon

Daily deck-washing — Invisibility of the captain — Expertness of the pilots — Abundance of local travel — The two-mouthed Xingu — The Amazon a veritable " ocean-stream " — Largest river in the world — Three fourths of Brazil tropical — Birds — Santarem — Obidos — It seems almost like a cemetery — Piratical-looking craft — Wind and current on the Amazon — Pirarucu — The Amazon assumes new names at particular points — Manaos — Zinc market-house — Brazil Street — Elastica — Newspapers — Hackney-coaches — Cafes — Billiard-saloons — Barber - shops — Botanical Museum of Amazonas — Works on Brazil — Dr. J. Barboza Rodrigues — Beef -cattle — Method of hoisting bullocks on board steamers — The longest way round, the shortest home — I cross the equator for the eleventh time 355

Chapter XLI. To The Guianas

via BARBADOS. Roadstead of Bridgetown — Government offices — Narrow sidewalks — Buildings of all Bizes and shapes — Church of England cathedral — Parliament Houses — Assembly and Council Chamber — Library — Albert Hall — Hastings, an English garrison-post — Barbados as a sanitarium — English residences — Sugar-mills and wind-mills — Paucity of trees — Codrington College — Coast of British Guiana — Demerara River — Georgetown — Berbice — Great variety of races represented — Tower Hotel — Use of canals in Georgetown — Large stores amply stocked — Tramways — Choice of churches and clubs — Sea-front of British Guiana — Immigration — Sugar estates — Provinces and parishes — Governor and Court of Policy — Governor's " contingencies " 366

Chapter XLII

A BRITISH COLONY. Fine public buildings wanting in Georgetown — Law Courts — The Public Building — Market — Roman Catholic Cathedral — British Guiana Museum — Royal Agricultural and Commercial Society — Newspapers and magazines — Government House — Promenade Gardens — Drives Sea- CONTENTS. XIX PAGE wall — Botanical Gardens — Victoria Regia — Climate — Georgetown settlement — British Guiana — Mouth of the Essequibo— Wood-cutting and stone-quarrying — Bartica Grove — Penal settlement — Up the Demerara — Negroes and Creoles — Macusi Indians — Gold-mining — The Royal Dutch West-India Mail — Surinam — Administration Building — Government House — Paramaribo 376

Chapter XLIII. Paramaribo And Cayenne

Churches and cemeteries — Jews an important factor — Climate — Police — Fire-engines — Dress and appearance of the women — Ball at the Government House — Pyjamas — Imported ice — Dutch architecture — Public garden — Colonial Council — Circulating libraries — Club — Cayenne — How it looks from a distance — Magasin general — Vultures clean the streets — Gowns of Creole women — French garrison — Enfant Perdu — Kaw Mountains — Gold quartz — Cabbage-Palm Square — Double palm-tree — Gendarmerie — Government House — Semaphore — Levee — Gulf of Paria — La Brea — Port-of-Spain 385