Actual Africa; or, the coming Continent. A tour of exploration, etc

Front matter

H. M. the King os the Belgians. ACTUAL AFRICA OR, THE COMING CONTINENT A TOUR OF EXPLORATION BY FRANK VINCENT AUTHOR OF " IHt LAND OF THE WHITE ELEPHANT," "THROUGH AND THROUGH THE TBOC1C "NORSK, LAPP, AND FINN," " AROUND AND ABOUT SOUTH AMERICA," " IN AND OUT OF CENTRAL AMERICA," JOINT AUTHOR OF "THE LADY OF CAWNTORE," ETC. WITH MAP AND OVER ONE HUNDREh ILLUSTRATIONS LONDON WILLIAM HE IN EM ANN 1S95 [All rights reserved] DEDICATED, BY SPECIAL PERsMISSION, TO EIS MAJESTY LEOPOLD II KING OF THE BELGIANS AND FOUNDER AND SOVEREIGN OF THE CONGO FREE STATE

Preface

. When, some years ago, Victor Hugo said that in the twentieth century Africa would be the cynosure of every eye, and when, more recently, Lord Salisbury, apropos of the European situation, remarked that foreign politics meant African politics, each state ment was an index to the immense resources of that great and crowded continent in which the Twilight is now succeeding to the Dark. Africa contains about one-quarter of the land of the globe. This area is more than thrice Europe's, or nearly as much as North and South America's combined. This wonderful triangular con tinent, whose general configuration is not unlike that of South America, is inhabited by one-eleventh of the human race, almost equalling the population of the Western Hemisphere. One-fifth of her surface is occupied by rich Savannas, and one-half by tilled fields, valuable forests, and fairly fertile soil as yet uncultivated.

Her variety and profusion of animal life are without a rival, and her output of gold and diamonds is unparalleled in the history of the world. What Europe thinks of the natural advantages and early pos sibilities of Africa may be inferred from the latter's political par tition. Out of a total area of 12,000,000 square miles Europe has left unappropriated only about 1,000,000, and these are confined to the sandy seas of the Libyan i Desert, and the inaccessible and powerful States of the Central and Eastern Soudan. The number of Europeans, and of persons of their descent, throughout the continent is estimated at 1,500,000 — facts that make more than plausible Lord Salisbury's dictum. The Powers represented in Africa are, moreover, strenuously seeking, and with considerable success, to develop the resources of their respective possessions. The general salubrity tempts civilv

PREFACE.

. VI isation. Only the tropical coastal belt and a few of the river valleys are in the main unhealthy. Elsewhere — as far, at least, as climate is concerned — the foreign settler may live with impunity, and speedily reap a plenteous reward. Settlement, therefore, is cer tain to expand, with peace and commerce following in its train. Attracted by these circumstances, which promised to this strange continent so near and prosperous a future, and encouraged by the success attending one of my previous works, "Around and About South America" (that enjoyed five editions here and three in England), I wished to closely examine a division of the earth so little known to the general public, and spent two years in accom plishing the task. Within that period not only was Africa com pletely circled, but many deep dips were also taken into her vast and mysterious interior.

Nearly all the capitals and important towns (native and foreign) of the seaboard territories, were in spected ; the great island of Madagascar was traversed ; several of the western archipelagoes were visited ; the peak of Teneriffe was scaled in mid-winter; a long excursion was made through the centre of the Boer Republics and British Colonies ; the Nile, Quanza, Congo, Kassai, Sankuru and Kuilu rivers were ascended — the latter for the first time by a white man ; and in the very core of Africa's heart a most interesting point was reached — the curious capital of the famous Basongo chieftain, Pania Mutembo. In short, my attention was equally divided between native States, with their tributary provinces, on the one hand, and European possessions, protectorates and spheres of influence, on the other.

The present volume, then, like the one on South America, is the result of personal observation. It is the kinetoscope of the actual as revealed to me by my senses. Some special studies in geography and ethnology are reserved for future publication as monographs. My object now is simply to give, in a popular manner, and as succinctly as possible, accurate general information concerning certain imperfectly known regions — both savage and settled — of the Africa of the present day. F. V. New York, March, 1895. PAGE Preface v

Chapter I

Tangier 1 Crossing from Gibraltar— Tangier from the sea— Customs officials— Hotels- Celebrating the Birthday of the Prophet — Tangier a cosmopolitan city— The Kasbah, or Castle — The Pasha's residence, treasury, and prison — Mosques — Mixed population— The soko, or market— Newspapers— " Moorish cafes chan tant"—Music of the caf^s— Hasheesh— Tbe Sultan of Morocco— Collects his taxes with the aid of his army— Not a cruel man— A rickety government— Tbe Sultan dominated by the despotic Koran. CHAPTER IT. Into the Land of the Moors 8 A start into the interior— Equipage and attendants— Prices of beasts of burden in Morocco— Camp cooking— On the road— A night in camp— Fall of tempera ture after sun-down— Fondaks. or caravansaries to be avoided— A better piece of country— Moorish guns and shooting— Villages of tents — Arzilla— Visit from its governor— Panniers balanced with stones— A ride along the sea-shore—La rache and its harbor— Trade of the town— The muezzin's call— On to El Kasr— Camp in an orchard— An olive mill and a water-wheel— Partridges— Mosquitoes.

CHAPTER TIL Town and Track 17 In El Kasr— Costumes of Moors and Jews— Shops — European goods predomi nate in the bazaar— The prison— Visit to a fondak— A glimpse into the mosques —Entertained at lunch in a Jewish house— Curiosity of the natives— A present of kous-koussou— Muck-heaps around the city— Native mode of washing clothes — A treeless country— The dragoman appealed to— Hedges of prickly pear — A camp between two villages— Presents from the headmen of both— Dogs but no mosquitoes— Palms and camels— A suggestion of the simoom- Crossing the Seboo river— Women at work, men at play— Guarding against robbers— Rains— More dogs— Camp near Muley Edris— Berbers, Arabs, Moors, and Jews— Languages of the country— Preventives of sleep — Ruins of the Ro man Volubilis— View of the " holy city," Muley Edris. PAGE

CHAPTER IV.

Mequinez 27 Situation of Mequinez— A Moorish gateway— Lodged in a native house— Shops and manufactures of Mequinez— Europeans a rare sight — Beggars— The Grand Gateway— The Jewish quarter— In the house of a rich Jew— Trading in the fondaks—Appearance of tbe people— Slaves— Water-supply— The soko— The city walls— Native laundry work— Departure for Fez— View of snow-covered moun tains.

CHAPTER V.

Sights and Scenes in Fez 36 Various sorts of travellers— Soldiers not readily distinguishable— Extending tbe walls of Fez— Upper-class Moors— The bazaar in Fez— Breakfast in the house of a Moor— Wives and concubines— Interior of a Moorish house— A "flat ', over a stable— The Sultan and his European officers— Fez divided into districts by doors across the streets— Spare time in the bazaar— The mosque of El Karoubin and its library — Schools and the university — Visit to an English general in the army of the Sultan— An exhibition of rebels' heads— The Sultan's soldiers— A snake-charmer in the soko — Fez viewed from the citadel — Visit to a Jew — Treatment of Jews by the Sultan— A breakfast— A ride over the hills— The gate entered by Muley Edris forbidden to Christians— Public baths.

CHAPTER VI.

A Holy City 46 A start in the rain— Arab shepherds and villages— Farming in Morocco—Begin ning of the rainy season—" Salaam aleikoom " — Ferried across a river— Prayers of Mussulmans in camp— Approaching Wezzan— A house obtained in tbe town— The Shereef of Wezzan— A present of green tea from the Shereef— The near-by hill tribes great robbers— Origin of the Moors and of the Jews— Drunken sport of a robber— Boar hunting— Douars, or villages, of Arab farmers and shepherds —Native dogs— The women's work— Back in Tangier.

CHAPTER VII.

Morocco to Algeria 53 A visit to Gibraltar— Malaga and its products— A rough sea— The first seaport in Algeria— Oran— Alfa fibre and Algerian wine— The French forts and barracks —Source of the Numidian marble of the Romans— Vehicles— Character of the population of Oran— Strategical importance of the place— Les Bains de la Reine —The Roman Pomaria.

CHAPTER VIII.

a The African Granada .60 A French colonial railway— Three natural divisions of Algeria— Appearance of the country between Oran and Tlemcen— The town of Sidi-Bel-Abbas— Cascades of El-Ourit— Tlemcen— Care of its streets under the French— Its manufactures- Arab baths— Mosque and tomb of Sidi Abraham— Mosque of Sidi Ahmed Bel Hassan-el-Ghomari— Its interior decorations a beautiful specimen of Moorish art— Archæological museum in the City Hall— Mosques of Djamaa-el-Kebir and Sidi-el-Halawi— Their onyx columns and decorations— An ancient chandelier- Concrete in wall construction— A beautiful mosque tower— Mosque and tomb of Sidi Bou Meddin— An Arabic college— The teacher's hint for his fee. PAGE

CHAPTER IX.

The " White City " 68 Level country between Oran and Algiers— Barrages, or dams, for irrigation- Entering Algiers — Situation— " A diamond set in an emerald frame"— The old town and the new— The harbor— Boulevard de la R6publique— The Municipal Theatre— Population, newspapers, fortifications— Steamer communication- Mixture of nationalities in the streets— Costumes of Moorish women and Jew esses—Streets of the native town— Its houses— Roofs of the houses forbidden to male Christians— The shops, restaurants, and cafe-s — Interior of the mosques- Usual staff of a mosque — An Assaoui performance— "La danse du ventre1' — Decorations and treasures in the public buildings— A drive to Mustapha Superieur— The Jardin d'Essai— An Arab cemetery— Water for the birds —Another drive in tbe suburbs— Church of Notre Dame d'Afrique.

CHAPTER X.

The Gorge of the Chabet 81 By rail to Bougie— Algerian vineyards— Entering Kabylia— Good roads built by the French — Interesting works of Nature and of man — Hamlets of the Kabyles —Mountains and forests— Candle-wax a chief product of Bougie— The name of the town taken as the French word for candle— The hotel and its Arab guests — By carriage to Setif— More Kabyles — Views of Bougie— Through the marvellous Chabet Pass — Geological features — Minerals — Farming among the hills— A ferruginous spring— Arrival in Setif.

CHAPTER XL

Constantine 90 An early start on a frosty morning— Constantine, the third city in Algeria— Its corn-market and manufactures — First view of the city— Its peculiarly pictur esque situation— Its French and its Arab quarter— Public buildings— Old palace of Ahmed Bey— Roman remains in the vicinity— Defences of the city— Warm baths of Sidi Mecid— Remains of a Roman aqueduct— The ancient Cirta— Through arid lands— The gorge at El Kantara— Crossing an oasis— An embankment carried away— Approaching the Sahara— Biskra, the terminus of the rail road—A notice to amateur photographers.

CHAPTER XII.

Biskra — Queen of the Desert 97 The oasis of Biskra— Dates and date-palms— The town and its suburbs— The Jardin Publique— Camels and their value— Watch towers— The eaid's falcons— A negro village— Eye-diseases among the natives— Chateau and gardens of CouDt Landon— Arab cafes— Dancing girls— Their dress and adornments— Les Freres Armes du Sahara— Instructions of Cardinal Lavigerie, the founder of the order— Work and rules of the brothers— A drive to Sidi Okbar— A view of the desert — Arabs of the Sahara— Mosque of Sidi Okbar, the most ancient monu ment of Islamism in Africa— The deeds and death of Sidi Okbar— Sunset on the desert— Healthy life of the Bedouins— Climate of Biskra, " Queen of the Desert."

CHAPTER XIII.

An Algerian Pompeii 107 Batna, a French town in Africa— Its electric lights, illuminated clock, and hy drants—Roman ruins at Lambessa and Timegad (Thaumugas)— The Prætorium of Lambessa— Many architectural remains excavated at Timegad— The forum, fortress, triumphal arch, and baths— Signs of the French department of public X PAGE instruction— Views from the hills Djebel Mescid and Mansoura— French control in Algeria— From Constantine to Tunis— Curious cars— Boiling springs ot Ham mam Muskoutine— A ■'petrified rapid"— Saline, ferruginous, and sulphurous springs — Views of woods and hills— Gorge of the Medjerda River — Nature of the country in Tunisia— Through a gap in the aqueduct of Carthage.

CHAPTER XIV.

Tunis and Carthage 114 View of Tunis from its ancient Kasbah— The harbor— The Goletta, the port of Tunis — Both towns built from the materials of ancient Carthage— Streets and bazaars of the city— Maltese inhabitants— Manufactures— Ways of the native merchants— Exquisite fabrics and inlaid work— Corpulent Jewesses— Costumes of the Arabs— Restaurants and fondaks— Christians not allowed in the mosques —The old slave market— Old stone palace of the Bey— Its lace-like arabesques— The college and primary schools — One of the baths— Population— A visit to the Bardo— The Tunisian army— Sentries knitting stockings— The Court of Lions — The Hall of Glass— The Hall of the Pasha— A collection of clocks— An interesting museum— Its mosaics— Palace where the French treaty was signed— The ruins of Carthage— Cathedral built by Cardinal Lavigerie — Tombs of the Cardinal and of Consul-General de Lesseps— Museum of Carthaginian relics— Cisterns of the great aqueduct.

CHAPTER XV.

Roundabout the Regency 125 A visit to the Bey of Tunis— The Bey's retainers — Audience with His Highness — More gilt clocks— The palace and its garden— Tunis under the Sultan of Tur key — As a French regency— Character of the reigning Bey— Obstacles to civilis ing the Arabs— By steamer to Tripoli — Cape Bon, the Hermean promontory — Kerouan — Susa — A mosque tower used for a lighthouse— Character of the Mal tese inhabitants— Monastir— Mahadia — The Kerkena islands — A dangerous bit of coast— Sfax— Pound-nets for tunny fish— The fine suburb of Sfax — Great reservoir of the town— Exports— Only tides of the Mediterranean— Gabes— Houses built of stone from Roman ruins— Scheme for an inland sea — Benefits of arte sian wells— Djerba— The "Island of the Lotophagi" — What was the Homeric food ?— Roman and Greek remains — Sponge fisheries — What the French have accomplished in their Barbary colonies.

CHAPTER XVI.

Tripoli 137 The city of Tripoli— Feeble Turkish men-of-war in the harbor— Government of Tripoli by the Sultan of Turkey— Nature of the country— Streets and houses in the capital— A quadrifrontal Roman arch— The finest of the three now in existence—Base uses of the interior— The Great Mosque and the mosque of Djamaa Goorjee— Ivory and ostrich feathers — The Pasha and his residence— Large and interesting weekly market— Poor quality of the Turkish troops— A curious little cart — On the edge of the genuine desert— Commerce of Tripoli— Four hundred miles of coast without a village or tree— Across to Malta— To Brindisi, thence to Port Said— In the Suez Canal— Ismailia.

CHAPTER XVII

The Metropolis oe Africa 145 In Cairo— The Ghizeh Museum— Funeral of Tewfik, Khedive of Egypt—Charac ter of Abbas Pasha H.— The road to Ghizeh— Location of the pyramids of Ghizeh —Contrast between tbe hotel and its surroundings— The Sphinx— The " great " pyramid— Mode of ascending and descending— Its interior— Pyramid of Che phren—Egyptian history re-entombed by the Mohammedans. PAGE CHAPTER XVslL Afloat upon the Nile 152 Navigation of the river— A Nile steamer— Drinking-water from the river—Da habeahs—Rhoda and its Nilometer— Quarries that yielded the stone for the pyramids— Tbe Nile's belt of verdure— Comical donkey-boys— Size and decora tions of the donkeys— "Backsheesh'"— Ruins and colossal statue at Memphis- Pyramids of Sakhara— The "step" pyramid— Fraudulent antiquities— The Se rapeum—Its sarcophagi— Decorations of the tombs at Sakhara— The baths at Helouan— Difference between temperatures of day and night — High and low water in the Nile— Changes in its channel— A diversified country— Pigeon-towers —Sights along the river— The Fayoum— Sugar factory at Maghaghah— No crocodiles below Assouan— Miles upon miles of sugar-cane— Convent of the Pulley— Minieh and its picturesque buildings— Rum from the sugar factories— Rock tombs of Beni Hassan — A tax on tourists— An artist domiciled in a tomb.

CHAPTER XIX.

The Capital of Upper Egypt 163 Hills of Gebel-Aboufaydah— Dog, cat, and crocodile mummies — Channel of the Nile generally close to the eastern bank — Most of the fertile valley on the west side of the river — Picturesque Assiout — Landing at its port, El Hamra— Its red pottery and other manufactures— Railways of Egypt — A donkey ride to the town— Ancient rock-hewn tombs — " Service de Conservation des Antiquites" — View from the mountain near Assiout — Native boats— More pigeons— Appliances for raising water from the river — Farming operations — Egypt the gift of the Nile — Inhabitants of the country— Birds and fish of the Nile.

CHAPTER XX.

The Temple of Denderah 172 Scarabs for sale— Condition of the temple when discovered — Its beautiful col umns and decorations— The sanctuary and adjoining chambers — Vandalism of the early Christians — Sculptured portraits of Cleopatra and Cæsarion— The Typhoni temple— Arrival at Luxor— A mingling of Occident and Orient— The temple of Koorneh— Tombs of the kings— Archæological work of Belzoni, Bruce, Mariette, and Wilkinson —Tomb of Seti I. — Discovery of the royal mummies.

CHAPTER XXI.

Karnak and Luxor 181 A choice between camels and donkeys- General appearance of tbe temple of Karnak— Avenues of sphinxes— Nearly three thousand years in building— The propylon— Importunate sellers of antiquities— The Hypostyle Hall— Obelisks covered with hieroglyphics— The Hall and Tablet of Ancestors— Great dilapidation of the remains— The temple of Luxor— Gigantic granite statues— An exhibition by dancing-girls— The Rameseum, or Memnonium— A nine-hundred-ton granite statue— The temple of Medinet-Haboo— Its grand architecture and gorgeous decorations— Battle scenes from the wars of Rameses HI.— The sitting Colossi- Musical statue of Memnon— At the races in Upper Egypt— Luxor as a health resort;—Ophthalmia.

CHAPTER XXII.

The First Cataract 191 Geological features of Egypt— Esneh and its temple— The temple of Edfou— The sacred hawk— Ancient sandstone quarries— Double temple at Kom Ombo—As souan and the island of Elephantine— Favorable impression made by the Nu- ANALYTICAL TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAGE bians— Rock tombs of the rulers of Elephantine— By rail to Shellah— Philæ, the most beautiful spot on the Nile— The great temple of Isis and "Pharaoh's Bed " — Shooting the cataract — A quarry of red granite.

CHAPTER XXIII.

In Lower Nubia 200 A steamer of the upper Nile — The country grows less fertile and more picturesque—A remarkable gorge — The temple at Kalabshah, the largest in Nubia — Henna and castor-oil for the toilet — Disturbed condition of the country — Why tbe sakiahs are allowed to creak — Singular forms of the rocks — Scene of the battle of Toski in the Soudan war — Crocodiles scarce— The rock-hewn temple of Aboo Simbel, the finest in the world— Colossal statues outside the temple— An immense battle-picture — Garrison at Wadi Haifa — By special train, with mili tary escort, to Sarras— The Second Cataract — The farthest point to which travellers may go— A very small donkey — View of the cataract from the rock of Aboosir— Back to Philæ — View from the peak of Awes-el-Guarany — Temple of Seti I. at Abydos — The famous Tablet of Abydos — Down the river to Cairo.

CHAPTER XXIV.

Mauritius and Madagascar 214 Through the Red Sea — Port Louis— Natural features and productions of Mau ritius — Its population, government, etc. — Hurricanes — The observatory and gardens of Pamplemousses — Description of Reunion— First view of Madagascar — Jolly negro boys — Tamatave — The filanzana, the universal carriage of Madagas car — Hovas and Betsimisarakas— Native method of fighting fire.

CHAPTER XXV.

Down the Coast 222 Equipment for a journey to the capital—'1 Cut money "—Learning Malagasy — Filanzana travelling— Sights of the road— Many-syllabled native names— Crossing a river in a forty-foot dug-out— Song of the boatmen— Provisions— Enormous appetites of natives— Malagasy villages— Clever construction of native huts- Pouring from a bamboo water-jar— Flies aud other pests— The town of Adovoranty.

CHAPTER XXVI.

Over the Mountain Terraces 230 A five hours' canoe ride— In a hillocky region— Kept awake by singing and chattering—Troops of coolies— A local dude— Scarcity of fire-wood— A load for twelve men— Native music— The peoples of Madagascar— Un-martial soldiers— A slippery trail— A two-room house, lined with straw matting— Natives bring a present of oranges— Speech by the schoolmaster— A return gift of Liebig's Meat Ex tract and cigars— Education, missionary work, publications— Native costumes and hair-dressing— Malay characteristics of the Hovas— How they manage their long words — First views of s^ntananarivo— Entering the city.

CHAPTER XXVII.

Antananarivo 241 Situation of the capital on an isolated hill— Rough streets— Police regulations- Sights of the city— The great palace— Figures of the national bird— The coronation stone— In the weekly market— Great variety of goods, native and imported— Butchers' shops without roofs— Slaves— The French Resident General— A call on His Excellency, the Prime Minister— An exchange of photographs— The Queen not much seen in public— The Prime Minister's summer palace— A very large and vicious ostrich — Native tombs. PAGE

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Journey to the West Coast 251 The country to be traversed— Bad repute of the Sakalavas— Hiring bearers and coolies— Long names of the men— Scenes on the road— Occupations of old women— Chilly mornfngs and evenings— A lodging over a Native children at their studies— Alarm of the fowls — A reed used as fuel— Animal and insect fellow-lodgers— A series of military stations — A night in a clean house — Jollity of the filanzana bearers— Less rain on the western side of the island than on the eastern— Sakalava cattle-stealers— Picturesque cascades— Underground passages— Manner of closing the gates of a village.

CHAPTER XXIX.

A Visit to a Gold Mine 261 Debatable land— A stop at a gold-washing— Antanimbarindratsontsoraka— A native woman gives her husband a bath — Characteristics of the Sakalavas— The skull of a robber on a pole— Camping in "the open'1 — Arrival at Suberbieville — " An excellent site for a city "—Mining concessions granted by the Malagasy government — Mode of impressing laborers— Convicts at work in chains — Meth ods of mining— Features of the mining village— Embarking in canoes— Down the Ikopa and Betsiboka rivers— Shots at crocodiles— The guards on the look out for pirates — A mutiny quelled by vigorous measures — More crocodiles— A night voyage with mutinous rowers — The steamer reached at last— Mojanga, a village of tinder-boxes.

CHAPTER XXX.

Madagascar, to Zanzibar 271 By steamer up the west coast — The island of Nosy Be— Fruits and vegetables — A visit to the sanatorium on Nosy Komba— The steamer for Zanzibar— A call at the island of Mayotta— Comoro island in the distance— The island of Zanzi bar—Native eraft and foreign men-of-war in the harbor— Terrible heat in the streets of the city— Abdallah has a good word for Stanley— Mixed population of the island— The retail traders mostly Banians— Slaves and convicts— The Sul tan's army of 1,200 men.— Foreign trade of Zanzibar— Government— Attacked with Malagasy fever— Drives up and down the island— Baobab trees— A palace of the Sultan— Coney Island aspect of the grounds— Another palace— Concert of the military band— The Sultan's well-guarded harem— Received by the Sultan —The audience-room— Dress and bearing of His Highness— A walk through the palace— Decorated with the Star of Zanzibar— A present of a painting from the Sultan— A call on Tippoo Tib.

CHAPTER XXXI.

German East Africa 283 Zanzibar dhows— A sail to the mainland of Zanzibar— The town of Bagamoyo — Dr. Emin Pasha's accident— An undignified landing— Goods of the interior- Copper wire and beads as money — A drive in the only carriage in town— The French Catholic Mission— The Caravansary— Natives from the neighborhood of Lake Tanganyika— Ivory in the rough— By German steamer to Port Natal— A stop at Lindi — Mozambique town and island— Productions of the territory on the mainland— Dr. Livingstone's servant, Chuma.

CHAPTER XXXII.

Mozambique and Lorenzo Marquez 291 Clean and lighted streets with name signs— A call on the Portuguese governor —Fort St. Sebastian— The machilla, a kind of palanquin— Native beer— A cannon ANALYTICAL TABLE OF C0NTEN1S. XIV PAGE salute to a fellow-passenger— Down the coast to Delagoa Bay— European aspect of the town of Lorenzo Marquez— A conspicuous powder magazine— A railway excursion into the Transvaal— Feathers for use, not for ornament— Native costumes with European additions— Women smoking at their work— Horns and skins of animals for sale— Outside the bar at Cape Natal. ,

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Natal . 2^8 In a thorough-going British colony— A first-class hotel of one story— A drive out on the Berea— Durban, its streets, buildings, swimming bath, conveyances, native police, etc.— Off for the gold-fields by rail— Sleeping accommodations on the train— Kaffir kraals— A Concord coach from New Hampshire— A tremendous whip expertly used— Coaching in the Transvaal— Boer ox-teams— Bad meals en route — First view of the gold hills.

CHAPTER XXXIV.

Johannesburg — the City op Gold 307 A young city of fifty thousand inhabitants in the centre of the steppe— The gold fields and their history— California and Australia outdone — American machinery in use— All sorts of products at auction— Trading in mining shares on the Stock Exchange — Dust storms and thunder storms — A coach trip to Pretoria — The Government House and the government — Dear living in the gold region — The rail journey to Kimberley— Through the veldt— The capital of the Orange Free State— The Karroo, or undulating plain — Flocks of sheep, goats, and ostriches.

CHAPTER XXXV.

The Diamond District 315 Kimberley— Its Botanical Garden devoured by locusts— The diamond mines— A vast hole in the ground— Fifteen tons of diamonds !— Geology of the depos its — Some famous gems— Processes of mining— Prevention of theft — A " com pound" of native diggers— The valuing-rooms— The South African and Interna tional Exhibition — By rail to Cape Town— Ostrich farming — Bad provender at the railway stations— The picturesque Hex River Mountains— Feats of railway engineering— Inland towns of the Cape colony— Arrival in Cape Town.

CHAPTER XXXVI.

Cape Town 323 Table Mountain and its " table cloth "—Streets and houses of Cape Town — The old Dutch Castle— The people of the city and colony— Public buildings—Gov ernor Van der Stell's oaks— Marble statue of Queen Victoria — The Houses of Parliament— The Public Library— The South African Museum — The Botanic Garden— The Town Hall — Suburbs of the city — The Cape of Good Hope and its lighthouse— Cape Agulhas, the most southerly point of Africa — Simon's Bay and Sea Point— The Royal Observatory — The healthiest foreign military sta tion in the British possessions— Van Riebeek's great farm — The Government Wine Farm— Chief summer resort of the people of Cape Town— A pleasant drive in a li Cape cart " — Climate at the Cape — A very roundabout journey— The voyage to Madeira— The old beacon of Robbin Island — Infirmary for lepers and lunatics — Through the tropics— A view of Cape Verd— Passing Teneriffe.

CHAPTER XXXVII.

A Detour by Madeira 333 View of Funchal from the roadstead— Boats full of native products — A strange vehicle— Glorious singing of cage-birds— An uncomfortable pavement— Climate PAGE of the Madeira islands— Three means of conveyance— A bullock drive up the hills— The Mount Church— Down hill by ''running sledge "—The Fish and Fruit Markets— Christmas celebrated with fireworks— A visit to the Grand Curral— Characteristics of the peasants— Wonders ul vegetation— Dragon tree— The De sertas—The Canary Islands — Santa Cruz de Palma— O'Daly Street— View of Teneriffe.

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

A Mid-winter Ascent of Teneriffe 343 Approaching the island— By carriage to Puerta Orotava—" Humboldt's Corner " —Preparations for ascending the peak— The road up the mountain— Vestiges of volcanic action— The cabin for tourists ou tbe cone— Cold and mountain sick ness—At the summit — A view never to be forgotten— Tbe descent.

CHAPTER XXXIX.

Peeps at Portuguese Islands 351 Convict fellow-passengers— The Cape Verd Islands— The harbor of St. Vincent — At Praia on Santiago— In the " doldrums "—Phosphorescence of the sea—Fer tile Prince's Island— The town of St. Antonio— St. Thomas— Sharks abundant — Natives unloading cargo to the music of tom-toms — A call on the governor- Hammocks as conveyances— Dahomeyan bearers in the service of the government—Dress and habits of the natives— Burdens carried on the head— Palm-wine and sugar-cane rum— Arrival at Monte Koffee— A tropical plantation— At Cabinda— The " factories " — San Antonio— The mouth of the Congo.

CHAPTER XL.

The Province of Angola 363 Ambriz— Hospitality of the governor— St. Paul de Loanda— The hotel and its live creatures— Extent and population of Angola— Loanda formerly a seat of the slave trade— Convicts— Products of the country— Scarcity of labor— The bank, currency, water-supply— Customs and language of the natives— The harbor—Railway into the interior— Both windows and doors of the houses num bered—Markets—Dress of the natives— Public buildings— Fort San Miguel— The native town— Amusements of the Portuguese residents— Novo Redondo—Ben guela—A terminus of exploring journeys— Native caravans. CHAPTER XLT. Mossamedes 373 Travel along the coast — In Little Fish Bay— Mossamedes— The colony of Boers at Humpata— Railways needed— A railway trip from Benguela to Catumbella— Native caravans— Fondness of the men for silk hats— A company of contract laborers— Portuguese colonial officials— Products of the Benguela district — Car nival at Loanda.