The Land of the White Elephant: sights and scenes in South-Eastern Asia: a personal narrative of travel and adventure in farther India, embracing the countries of Burma, Siam, Cambodia, and Cochin-China, 1871-2. With map, plans, and ... illustrations

Front matter

THE LAND OF THE WHITE ELEPHANT SIGHTS and SCENES in SOUTH-EASTERN ASIA A PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE IN FARTHER INDIA EMBRACING THE COUNTRIES OF BURMA, SIAM, CAMBODIA, AND COCHIN-CHINA (1871-2) By FRANK VINCENT, Jun. WITH MAP. PLANS, AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS LONDON SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, LOW, & SEARLE CROWN BUILDINGS, 18S FLEET STREET 1873 .1 // rights refer ved LONDON : PRINTER BY SPOTTIKATOODE AND CO., NEW-STREKT SQUARE AND PARLIAMENT STREET TO BARON HENRY CALICE MINISTER-RESIDENT AND CONSUL-GENERAL OF HIS I. AND E. AP. H. THE EMPEROR OF AUSTRIA, KING OF HUNGARY, ETC. IN CHINA, JAPAN, AND SIAM WITH PLEASANT REMEMBRANCE OF RARE EXPERIENCES IN SHANGHAE, CHEFOO, AND PEKING Cjjis ©olumj DESCRIPTIVE OF THE PEOPLES AND COUNTRIES OF INDO-CHINA §fs (Srakfallg fiismbti*-

Preface

Within the past five years the attention of the Avestern world especially has been earnestly and anxiously directed to many of the countries of Asia — to Burma, Siam, Cambodia, and Cochin China amongst others — where unusual and extraordinary innovations have been introduced, where encouraging social and religious revolutions have been initiated, and Avhere ' modern progress ' is noAv so rapid as almost to raise fears of dangerous reaction or even collapse. Last year the Kings of Siam and Cambodia left, for the first time in history, their capital cities, and travelled in search of instruction and pleasure, the one to Java and India and the other to Hong Kong and Peking. Opinions, laAvs, customs, even rehgions, Avhich have been rooted and established for ages, are gra dually undergoing change, and a change on the whole for the better.

And still there are no countries in Asia, where the arts of civilised life are understood, of which we have so limited a knoAvledge as those which he between the Bay of Bengal and the China

PREFACE.

Sea. Although during the present century some thing has been learned, yet much remains to be told ; a great deal of important information has to be gathered before Ave can claim a full and true acquaintance Avith tlie kingdoms and protectorates of Farther India — their present condition, capabilities, and prospects. A country of 1,000,000 square miles in area and 25,000,000 inhabitants — having a avou derfully productive soil and a greatly extended commerce — with Avhich the unavoidable march of events shows we are soon to have more intimate relations, certainly merits a careful study. A three-years' journey round the Avorld — the greater part of the time occupied in Avhich Avas employed in studying Man and Nature iu the various lands of southern and eastern Asia (from Persia to Tibet, to Mongolia and Japan) and but recently completed — included visits to Farther India or Indo-China (as it is also styled) in the years 1871-72.

The folio Aving pages also contain a personal narrative of travel and adventure in Burma, Siam, Cambodia, and Cochin China, for Avhich little else is claimed than the merit of being true. F. V. Jr. CONTENTS BURMA

Chapter I Rangoon

Steamer ' Oriental ' — Glances at Indian Towns — First View of Land — Approach ' to Burma — Shipping — The Rangoon River — Rangoon City — Ar rival — Search for Quarters — Historical — Description of the City — Population — The Shoay Dagon, or Golden Pagoda — Temples — Great Bell of Rangoon — Its Inscription — Generous Treatment — Other Pagodas . . . page 1

Chapter II Burmese Manners And Customs

The Burman Race — Ethnology — Houses — Dress — Tattooing — Food — Infant Smokers — Jewellery — The Oath of a AVitness in Court — Language and Literature — Religion — Leave Rangoon for Mandalay 11

Chapter III Up The Irrawaddy

The ' Colonel Phayre ' and ' Pegu ' — My Fellow-Passengers — The Irrawaddy River — Scenery — Myanoung — ■ Budhist Idols — Market — ' Arakan Hills ' — River Boats, Canoes, and Cargoes— Burmese Characteristics — The ' Marriage-knot ' — Prome — ' All Quiet at the Capital ' — A Royal Religious Gift— Meingla X CONTENTS

Chapter IV Paghan And The Old Capitals

The Kingdom of Ava — Yaynan-gyoung — Petroleum Wells — Ruins of Paghan — Counterpart of an English Archbishop of the Middle Ages — Large Pagoda of Indian Model — Ava — Amarapoora — Changes of Capital — The ' Golden City ' at last page 31

Chapter V Mandalay

The Landing — Great Bell of Mengoon — -Mr. Seng-Ko's Letter — First View of the City — The Suburbs — Roads — Fires — Chinese Dwellings — Population — The City —Walls ; Gates ; Streets ; Canals— The Palace Walls— Royal Guards— The Pakhan Mengyee, or Foreign Minister — A Burmese Regiment of Infantry — Palace Square — The ' Grand Hall of Audience ' — The Prime Minister's Breakfast — Conversation with the Yaw-Ahtween-Woon, or Minister of the In terior — The ' Governor of the Glass Manufactories ' — Government Accounts — The King's Throne and Audience Chamber 38

Chapter VI Audience With The King Of Ava

Our Party and Presents— King Mounglon Appears— The Royal Person — Presentation to His Majesty — A Spy — Tempting Offers — A Veritable ' Houri ' — The King's Reign — The Government — Tyranny and Monopoly — Some Appre ciation of the Advantages of Western Civilisation — Native Account of the Introduction of the Electric Telegraph 54

Chapter VII The White Elephant

The White Elephant, not White— The King 'out of sorts' — The AVhite Elephant in the Sixteenth and Eighteenth Centuries— The White Elephant at the Present Day— His Majesty's 'Pass' — Writing Material and Books — A Burma-Chinese Tiffin— Odd Use of Tea Leaves — The Bazaars— Coins ; In terest; Barter; Prices— The Market— The Royal Navy— The King's Barge. CONTENTS XI

Chapter VIII Bhamo And The Old Trade Route

Leaving Mandalay — The Upper Irrawaddy — Domesticated Fish — Grand Defile — Mineral and Vegetable Resources of Ava — Old Trade Route to China — By Rail to the Makong River — Bhamo — Shan Emigrants — The Laos Tribes — The Hide Trade — Our Cargo — The English Cantonment at Thayet-myo — General Norman and Secretary Seward — Change of Monsoon — Proposed Over land Trip to Bangkok — Prome Again — Arrival at Rangoon . . page 71

Chapter IX From Maulmain And Penang

Amherst — Maulmain — Timber- Yards — Sagacity and Usefulness of the Elephant — Departure for Penang — Chinese Passengers ; their Life on Board — The Bishop of Rangoon, Right Rev. T. Bigandet — First View of Penang — The Island— Province Wellesley — Georgetown — General Appearances — Visit to 'Penang Mountain' — The Waterfall — The Signal Station— Magnificent View — Return to the Steamer — The Mangosteen — The Dorian — The Straits of Malacca 84

Chapter X To Malacca And Singapore

The Town of Malacca — Chinese Burying-ground — A Portuguese Tiffin— Old Cathedral— Captain Semmes' Piracy - Approach to Singapore— The Harbour — Hotel de l'Europe ' — The Islaud and its Products — The ' Town of Lions ' — The American Consul — View from Fort Canning — The Governor's House — Chinese Temple —The Market— European Country Houses— New Harbour — Cocoanut Plantations— Coir- Rope Manufactory— Hon. Mr. Whampoa's Gardens— A Sago Manufactory " CONTENTS XII SIAM

Chapter XI Bangkok

A Short Digression— Steamer ' Martaban '—The Gulf of Siam— Mouth of the Menam River — Pakuam — A Siamese Custom House — The River and its Scenery— The City— Consulates of the Western Powers— My Hotel— The Royal Secretary— The American Consul— A Row through the City— The Thoroughfares— Floating Houses — Boats and Canoes — Rice Factories — A Huge Pagoda— General Appearance of Bangkok — Wat Cheng Pagoda — Siamese Drama and Music — Wat Sah Prah Tarn — Large Chinese Temple — A Ride to the Palace Buildings page 115

Chapter XII Excursion To Pechaburi

The Second King's Private Secretary — The Canal — The Country — A Royal Sanitarium — American Mission Station — The King's Summer Palace — Cave Temples — Huge Idol — The 'Reclining' Budha — A Laos Village — Return to Bangkok 133

Chapter XIII Audience With The King Of Siam

The Second King — The Consuls — The Palace — Audience with His Majesty — Personal Appearance and Character of the Second King — Cigars, Coffee, and a Pleasant Talk — Grand Parade of the Palace Guards — The Royal Military Bands — Bonzes Seeking Alms— Interview with the Regent of Siam — His Grace Chow Phya Sri Sury Wongse — The ' Real Ruler of Siam ' . . . 145

Chapter XIV

A DAY IN THE PALACE White Elephants — Budhist Reverence for White Quadrupeds — Sir John Bowring's Gift — Why the White Elephant is so Specially Revered — A Badge of Distinction — Two Royal Claims to the Title of ' Master of Many White Elephants' — The Arsenal of Artillery — 'Coining Manufacture' — Tho Wat CONTENTS XIII Phran Kean ; or, Temple of the Emerald Idol — Description ; Exterior and Interior — Library of Budhist Sacred Books — The Supreme King's Palace — Wat Poh; Gigantic Image of Budha — Preparation for the Overland Excursion to Angkor — Our Official Passport — Farewell to Bangkok . . . page 160

Chapter XV Across Southern Siam

Canal Travel — Bang pa Kong River — Pachim — The Governor — Interview with His Excellency — The Citadel — Remarkable Trees — A Paddy-Mill — Horses ; Bullocks ; and Carts — A Siamese Dinner — Scenery of the Road — Kabin — Gold Mine — The Forest and its Wild Inhabitants — Quinine — We Pass the Boundaries of Ancient Cambodia — Our Night Bivouacs — Sesupon — Siamese Elephant, Saddle, and Driver — Fish Traps — Panoum-sok — The Governor's Wife . .175

Chapter XVI Siamrap

Ancient Stone Bridge — Ride in a Bullock-Cart — A Border Town — A Marriage Festival — Another Native Dinner — Presents from the Governor — A Water-AVheel — Canoes and Barges — The Walls and Houses — The Palace — Interview with the Governor — His Excellency's Band — Resume of Travel — Preparations and Start for Angkor and Nagkon Wat . . . . 1 99

Chapter XVII The Ruins Of Angkor

: THE GREAT TEMPLE Preliminary Observations — Description ofthe Great Nagkon Wat; Exterior and Interior — No Cement Used in Construction — Quarry Thirty Miles Distant — A Half a Mile of Sculptured Wall — One Hundred Thousand Separate Figures — Bas-Reliefs of the ' Grand Gallery ' — Fifteen Hundred Solid Columns — Galleries, Image Houses, Pagodas — Figures of Budha — Who Built the Won derful Nagkon Wat ? — When was it Built ? — Native Account — Its Great Anti quity Established — The Lost Tribes of Israel — Our Opinion — Inscriptions ; Ancient and Modern — Former Cannot be Deciphered, and Latter throw no Historical Light — Chinese Discovery, and Portuguese Re-Discovery — Nagkon Wat from the year 1295 to 1872 CONTENTS

Chapter XVIII

A CAMBODIAN MARRIAGE FESTIVAL Other Ruins — Lailan — The Royal Lake, Sasong — Visit to Siamrap — Letter from the Governor of Siamrap to the Prime Minister of Cambodia — Dinner at the Palace — Siamese and Chinese Viands Compared — Gold Betel-Boxes, Cigar-holders, Cups, and Dishes — Invitation to Accompany some Chinese Travellers to Panompin — The Marriage Festival — The Bride and Bridegroom — The Ceremony— The Grand Banquets- Nak Prat, the ' Wise Man '—The Go vernor's Idea Concerning the Builders of Angkor — The Wedding Presents — We Return to Nagkon Wat .* . page 228 GHAPTER XIX THE RUINS OF ANGKOR : THE CITY AND ENVIRONS A A'ibit to the Old City— Tradition °of the Power and Magnificence of the Ancient Kingdom of Khaman — The Walls — Large Temple — Colossal Faces of Budha built in the Pagodas — The Poh Trees — Idol Cells — The Leper King — Founders of Angkor — Is the Religion of Budha Identical with that of Ancient Egypt? — Did the Egyptians build Angkor City and Temple? — Resemblance of Budhism to Christianity — The Royal Palace — Custodian ofthe Ruined City — Remains of an Observatory — Immense Stone Griffins — The Elephant-headed ' Ganesh' of the Hindoo Mythology — Image Houses — Description of the Observatory — Extensive View — An Evening Call — Parting from my Fellow- Travellers 239 CAMBODIA

Chapter XX Siamrap To Panompin

Preparations — My Cochin-China Servant — An Amusing Dinner — The Start for Lake Thalaysap — Road to the Lake — Description of our Boat — Camponq Pluk — A Fishing A'illage — ATexatious Delays— A Second Start — Enter ' Sweet- CONTENTS XV Water' Lake — Pass the Boundary of Siam and Cambodia — Boat Life in Cambodia — ' Joss ' on Board — The Mesap River — Villages — River Fishe ries — Oodong, the Old Capital — Alews on the River — Approach to Panompin page 255

Chapter XXI Panompin

General Appearances — Panompin from the River — An Interpreter and Friend — Description of the Capital of Cambodia — Roads; Shops; Popula tion — Inhabitants; their Dress — Miriano, the Interpreter — The Chief Aide-de-Camp — The Prime Minister — His Reception Hall — The Palace Inclosure — Details of the Royal Palace 269

Chapter XXII Audience With The King Of Cambodia

Norodom I. — Conversation with His Majesty — The Greatest Fete ever Celebrated— Interior of the Palace — The Drawing-room — Apartments of the Harem — Dining-room — Large Orchestral Music Box, with a Wonderful Mechanical Bird — The King's #1,000 Watch — The Library— His Majesty's Bed-room — Gold and Silver Toilet Services — Pictures — Observatory and Telescope — Reflections — The Artificial (stone, silver, and gold) Mountain — Cutting off a Princess's Hair — The King an Inveterate Smoker — Palace Guards 277

Chapter XXIII Walks About The City

An Old Pagoda — Music at the Palace — Machine Shops — The King's Private Office — Ambassadors' 'Audience Hall' — Supreme Court — Royal Theatre — Barracks — His Majesty's Stables — Horses presented by Napoleon III. — Description of the Old Capital, Oodong — A Telegram from Saigon — My Last Interview with the King — The Royal Carriage and Cavalry Escort — A Royal Cambodian 'Swell:' the King in Semi-European Garb— Present ofa Gold Box The Theatricals— Our Boat and Crew — Adieu to Panompin . . CONTENTS XVI COCHIN CHINA

Chapter XXIV Panompin To Saigon

The Great Makong River— Products of the Country — Enter Cochin China — Chaudoc — Citadel and Garrison — French Justice — Lang-Xuen, Chadec, and Mitho — Intendant's Residence — French Settlement — Delta-ground of the Makong— The Creek — Chinese Merchant-Boats— Chalen — Ride to Saigon- Ancient Annamite Tombs — Arrive at the City — Congratulations — Times and Distances of the Overland Journey from Bangkok .... page 298

Chapter XXV Saigon

Brief Geographical Notice — First Impressions — The River: Gunboats and Shipping — Hotels and Cafes — Population — Administration — Streets — Botanical Garden — Government House — Business — The 'Toiler ofthe East' — Schools for Annamites — Army and Navy — Police System — Morals — Climate: Dis eases — Language — 'France in the East' — Colonisation — The Makong as a Water-Road — The A'alue of Cochin China — The Songkoi as a ' Back AA*ay ' to the Yang-tse-kiang — The Saigon River — Departure — Conclusion . . LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS FULL-PAGE ENGRAVINGS 1. The Great Temple of Nagkon Wat . . Frontispiece BURMA 2. Gaudama, the last Budha . . ... to face page 6 3. Burmese Image-House . . . . . . . .24 4. View of the City of Mandalay 38 5. Budhist Monastery . ........ 41 6. The Palace, Mandalay 44 SINGAPORE 7.

The Fan Palm— ' The Traveller's Fountain ' . . 109 SIAM 8. General View of Bangkok and the Menam River . . . .115 9. His Majesty the King of Siam 118 10. Temples and Pagodas at Bangkok 125 11. Wat Cheng Pagoda, Bangkok 126 12. Brass Idol in Temple, Bangkok 130 13. Supreme King of Siam in his State Robes 132 14. The Second King of Siam in his State Robes .... 145 15. Temple of the Emerald Idol 165 16. Siamese Gentleman and Lady 197 a LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS XVIII RUINS OF ANGKOR 17. Nagkon Wat: Entrance AVest of the First Enceinte (inner view) io face page 209 18. „ „ North-West Edicule 210 19. „ „ Principal Facade 212 20. „ „ Peristyle of the Gallery of Bas-Reliefs . . .214 21. Sculptures at Nagkon Wat 210 22. Nagkon Wat: Fragment of Bas-Relief 218 23. Colonnade at Nagkon Wat 220 24. The Grand Staircase, Nagkon Wat 220 25.

View from Central Pagoda, Nagkon Wat 224 26. Angle of the Great Court of the Temple 227 CAMBODIA 27. His Majesty the King of Cambodia 277 28. Queen of Cambodia and Royal Children 283 29. Panompin, the Capital of Cambodia 289 COCHIN CHINA 30. Cochin Chinese Prince and Attendants. 299 31. Street A'iew, Saigon ......... 306 32. Government House, Saigon (French, recently completed) . . 308 33. Annamite Lady ........ 310 SMALLER ENGRAVINGS Page 1. Burmeso A\roman . . . .„ j ... 13 2. Burmese Judge, Clerks, and Attendants ... 2" 3. Copy of an Old Burmese Painting ... i q u. wyj ui au um jjiuijie&u rjuiiiing ... in 4. Irrawaddy River-Boat LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS XIX Page 5. Elephant employed in a Timber- Yard, Maulmain . . 86 6. A Budhist Priest 89 7. Temple of the Sleeping Idol, Bangkok 128 8. The Royal Guards 152 9.

The Regent of Siam 155 10. The Minister of Foreign Affairs 157 11. Siamese War-Elephant 195 12. Cambodian Female Band 207 13. Priest's House, Nagkon Wat 211 14. Sculptures in the City of Angkor ....... 214 15. Columns of Nagkon Wat . . 217 16. Wooden Idol . 241 17. The Leper Kin? 243 18. Banks of the River Mesap, Cambodia ...... 266 19. Annamite Female ......... 287 20. Gift from the King of Cambodia 295 21. Makong River-Boats 304 22. Annamite Male 309 23. Annamite Soldiers 311 MAP AND PLANS Sketch Map of the Author's Route. Plan of the Province of Siamrap ; showing the location of the Ruins of Angkor. Ground Plan of the Great Nagkon Wat, in Eastern Siam. THE LAND i JF THE WHITE ELEPHANT