Diary of Travels in France and Spain, chiefly in the year 1844

Preface

The extended journey, of which the following pages contain a Diary, was originally undertaken merely with the view of sojourning for a few months in the South of France for reasons con nected with health. However, circumstances subsequently occurred which caused its ex tension to a more lengthened period. From its commencement I was desirous that the absence from home should not be without those accompanying objects and aims in accordance with the character of a clergyman of the Church of England ; and when the journey was prolonged, I became still more anxious on the subject. I will not hesitate to notice what these objects and aims were, under the sense of the responsibility for time, attention, and interest, attached to one occupying the position of a Minister. VI preface. I was desirous to make myself acquainted, by personal investigation, with the state of religion in France, and chiefly on two points, viz., on the hold which the Romish Faith and ceremonies have on the population of the country at large, and on the degree in which the doctrines of the Protestant Church prevail at present in the land.

I was also desirous of seeking out my own countrymen in every locality where they reside, and of affording them those temporary ministra tions which are so much valued in a foreign clime, and on which, limited as they must of necessity be, it often pleases God to bestow an abundant blessing. I have here only mentioned my own personal aims and objects. The subsequent pages must speak for themselves as to the degree in which others may be influenced by the notices con nected with them, which will be found therein. At the same time, these volumes lay no claim whatsoever to any peculiar or distinguishing character beyond that professed in their title. The journey was performed in such a manner, it led through scenes so little known, many of them quite unknown, and really offered such

PREFACE.

. VII unceasing variety of general information, that if I have failed to render it interesting, I cannot plead want of materials, and have no resource except that of admitting the fault of the writer. Nevertheless, I may state at once that if I had had no aim — no teAo? — the Diary would in all likelihood never have been written, and cer tainly wmild never have appeared in print. Freehills, February, 1845. CONTENTS OE THE FIRST VOLUME.

Chapter I

Dieppe — Castle of Arques — Mode of Travelling — Rouen — Impressions of Rouen — Railroad Men — Country Excursion — French Country-house — Baptism of Children — Banks of the Seine — Beautiful Scene— Grand Andelys— Arrival in Paris — Versailles — General Hoche — French Sermon — Palace of Versailles — The late Duke of Orleans— Journey to Orleans. 1 — 19

Chapter II

Orleans — Jeanne d'Arc — Her Statue and abode — The late Princess Marie — Siege of Orleans — Chateau de la Source — Steam-boats on the Loire — Protestant Pastor — Orphan Asylum — Les Adieux a Rome — Blois — Church of St. Nicholas — Curious Depot — Murray's Hand-book — Duke de Guise — Chambord — Duke de Bordeaux — " Cinq Mars" — The late Duke of Orleans — Castle of Amboise — Royal Abodes 20 — 38

Chapter III

Detention at Tours — Tours — Dismantled Churches — Quentin Durward— Plessis — Sir Walter Scott — Agricultural Colony — Object of the Colony — Report of the Colony — Locality of the Colony — Dress of the Colonist— English Church at Tours — Excursion to Loches — Service at Loches — Appeal to Clergy- X CONTENTS. men abroad — Awful Dungeons — Character of the Town — White Building Stone— A Forest— Chinon — Priest catechizing — Beautiful walk — Family scene — Joan of Arc — Lovely river view — Saumur . 39 — 66

Chapter IV

Cavalry Riding School — Stud — Curious Church — Protestant Worship — Saumur in Olden Times — Country Visit — Druidical Temples — Return to Tours — Evening Visit — Discussion with a Priest — Romish Errors — Departure from Tours — Scenes on the Loire — Antiquarian Collection — Boats on the Loire — The Levee — Approach to Angers — Feudal Castle — Arrangements for Services 67 — 89

Chapter V

Sunday services — Horticulture — Sudden Death — A warning to all — A Funeral — Reflections — French lodging — French markets — A Baptism — Larochejacquelin — Pont de Ce" — Fat oxen — Visit to the Hospital — Infant School— Religious Discussion — Public Library — Large Convent — Bishop of Nantes — Ethiopian girls — The Nunnery 90—113

Chapter VI

Chateau de Brissac — Interior of the Chateau — Churches of St. Martin and Toussaints — Le Champ des Martyrs — Slate Quarries — Workmen at the Quarries — Uses of the Slate — Fair at Angers — The Bishop and Monsieur M. — Country Drive — Cross-roads — Last Service at Angers — Prospect of Reformed Worship — Courteous Guide — Mardi Gras — The Legitimists — Departure from Angers — Ministerial Feelings— La Baumette 114—133

Chapter VII

Country Visit — Sunday Service — Gift from the Congregation — French Country-house — Ancient Church — Bonchamps — Grace CONTENTS. XI aux Prisonniers — Nantes — Duchesse de Berri — Inundation of the Loire — State of the Town — Protestant Service — The Ce metery — A mourner at the Grave— Politics — Strange mistakes — Lent Preacher — Mob discrimination — Benevolent Institution — Kindness to the Poor 134 — 155

Chapter VIII

River Erdre — Steam-boat excursion — French sailor — Religious conversation — The sailor's present — Abbe Combalot — Clisson — Revolutionary horrors — Beautiful pleasure grounds — Italian villa — Le Bocage — State of La Vendee — Bourbon- Vendee — General Travot — Abbey of Fontanelle — Protestant worship — Sables d'Olonne — Magnificent Bay — Arrival of Fishing-boats — Strange costume — Castle of Talmont — Lucon . . . 156 — 175

Chapter IX

Excursion — Dreary walk — La Tranche — La Rochelle — History of La Rochelle — Guiton — The Siege — King Charles, Duke of Buckingham, and Richelieu— Protestant Pastor — Rochefort — Table-d'Hote — Improved scenery — Saintes — Roman antiquities — Cognac — Jarnac — Prince de Conde — Angouleme — Grand prospect — French recruits — La Garde — Montlieu — Wild country 176—193

Chapter X

Bordeaux — Mildness of the weather — Village Priest — Suspension bridge — View of Bordeaux — English service — Worship of the Virgin — Strange spectacle — The Black Prince — New Prison — Passion Week — "Les Derniers jours d'unCondamne." — Capital punishment — Easter Sunday — English chapel — Country-house —The Acacia — The Landes — La Teste — Votive offerings — Pines and resin — Curious equipage 194 — CONTENTS.

Chapter XI

Enfants Trouve's— Service for Sailors— English Captain— English Sailors at Bordeaux— Their state considered— Departure from Bordeaux — St. Emilion— The Dordogne— Beautiful Church — Antique houses — Picturesque walk — M. Guadet — Reign of Terror — Madame Bouquey — Victims ofthe Revolution — The late Duke of Orleans— Departure for St. Emilion. . . 214—228

Chapter XII

Bergerac— Castillon— Earl of Shrewsbury — The Dordogne — Protestant Temple — Colporteur — Sale of Bibles and Testaments — St. Mames — M. Franconi and his stud — Perigueux — Fine piece of oak carving — Palais de Justice — Examination of a Prisoner — Ruins — Brives — Duke de Liancourt — Poverty of the Inhabitants — Patois — Cahors — General Brune — M. Majour — " Petit Seminaire" — Silvio Pellico — Brives la Gaillarde 229 — 243

Chapter XIII

First view of the Auvergnat mountains — Tulle — Mr. C — , Inspector of the Hospitals — Country-house — The ponies — Uzerche — M. and Madame Lafarge — Agricultural implements — Arthur Young's description of the country — Condition of the people — Chateau de Noailles — Souillac — Peyrac — Gourdon— Cheap provisions — Cahors — Henry IV. — Capital of the Cadurci — Temple of Diana — Mosaic pavement — Duke of Wellington. 244 — 261

Chapter XIV

Montauban — Theological Institutions — M. Monod — Protestant Service — Battle of Toulouse — Noble Inscription — Worthy motto— Fete du Roi—" Place du Capitol" — Flower fair of Toulouse — Church of St. Sernin — Fete des Reliques — Church of the Cordeliers — Museum — Jean Calas — Recitation of Floral Poems— Clemence Isaure—" The Address" — Report of the Academy on the Poems — Distribution of the Prizes — Messrs Courtois 262 — CONTENTS . XIII M

Chapter XV

!. Maurette — His Pamphlet — Le Pape et l'Evangile; ou, Encore des Adieux a Rome — "Assurance contre la Grele" — Church at Egmont — Cathedral at Auch — " Mois de Marie" — Romish Sermon — Count d'Armagnac — Count de Foix and the Black Prince — Tarbes — Curious dress — Henry IV — Pau — Castle of Pau — Pleasant excursions— Church of Lescar — Froissart's Chronicles — Chevalier Espaing de Lyon — Pau— Excursion to Bayonne — Battle of Orthez — Chateau de Moncada — Protestants of Puyoo — The Landes — Bieritz — The mouth of the Bidassoa — Jewish Synagogue — St. Jean de Luz — Spanish Frontier 285—324 ILLUSTRATIONS. VOL. I. Fort de Lourde, Upper Pyrenees . . To face the Title. Castle of Brissac Page 115 WOOD-CUTS. Castle of Nantes 142 Fishwomen ....... 174 Castle of Henry IV. at Pau . . . . 306 Bridge of Orthez 316 VOL. II.

View of Tolosa To face the Title. Viella, Vallee d'Aran, Catalonia . . . Page 1 50 WOOD-CUTS. Pampeluna ....... 51 St. Bertrand de Comminges .... 109 Church at Luz ....... 179 s Old House at Rodez ERRATA. VOL. I. Page 2, Line 17, for larger read large 84, note line 9, read Inexplosibles 101, — — 9, for semicolon read comma 132, 19, for his read His 163, — — note line 3, for Soral read some 232, 26, for was read lies 291, 20, for Cumar read Cumæ VOL. II. Page 84, Line 16, for inspiring read inspiriting 159, 23, omit comma after gardens 184, 6, for Staubback read Staubbach — — 217, 22, for constitutions read constitution 241, 11, for stonea read stores A DIARY OF TRAVELS IN FRANCE AND SPAIN.

Chapter I

Dieppe — Castle of Arques — Mode of Travelling — Rouen — Impressions of Rouen — Railroad Men — Country Excursion — French Country-house — Baptism of Children — Banks of the Seine — Beautiful Scene — Grand Andelys — Arrival in Paris — Versailles — General Hoche — French Sermon — Palace of Versailles — The late Duke of Orleans — Journey to Orleans. Sept. 27, 1843. — After many successive weeks of fine weather, the clouds were gathering, the barometer was rapidly falling, and the com mencement of the equinoctial gales daily, if not hourly, expected. We were, therefore, glad to arrive safely at Dieppe by half past eleven at night, after a smooth and favourable passage. Dieppe, Sept. 28. — This place is not without features of interest to the stranger. White and VOL. i. b CASTLE OF ARQUES. precipitous cliffs at each horn of the bay ; an old castle on a sea-beat height over-hanging the town ; many good residences, variously coloured, and ornamented with moulded iron balconies; a broad space of turf between the town and the sea ; a pretty bathing establishment on the shore, and a firm, gravelly beach, on which the waves are to-day beating and foaming under a fresh northern gale — all combine together in giving us a pleasing impression of our first scene on continental ground.

We drove in the afternoon, under arching trees, to see the grand ruins of the Castle of Arques, about four miles from Dieppe. The place is renowned in French history from the battle in which Henry IV, with a far inferior number of Protestants, defeated a larger army of the League. While I was making a circuit of the vast and commanding edifice, a boy came up to me, and pointed out a stout red tower, which he called "Henry's bed-room." The shops at Dieppe are full of the most delicate and finished carvings in ivory executed at the place, and forming not only the more usual articles to which the material is applied, but also whole figures and groups full of ex pression ; and varying from the most sublime to the most comic subjects. MODE OF TRAVELLING. Sept. 29. — We had to-day clear and pleasant weather for proceeding to Rouen, a distance of thirty-five miles, the road being macadamized and very good, except in the immediate neighbourhood of towns and villages, where the old pavement still remains.

Many country houses were in sight, with the usual French approach of long straight avenues. On drawing near to Rouen we descended by a long, circuitous hill into the valley of the Cailly — steep hanging woods fronting us on our way. This view was beautiful. We then passed through Cambres and Melaunay, where there are numerous ma nufacturing establishments, and handsome residences of the proprietors. From hence to Rouen the road was crowded with vehicles of every description, and it might almost be called a continued suburb of that town, till we arrived at its entrance, by a fine avenue of trees which leads straight down to the broad and fair quay along the banks of the Seine, and in front of that renowned city. To-day was our first, but quite successful ex periment of a mode of travelling which we had adopted, notwithstanding many doubts and forebodings on the part of some of our friends — I mean with ponies of our own, and a small open carriage.

Thus far, all went on b ROUEN prosperously, and we had a most agreeable drive. Rouen, Sept. 30. — This town is so well known to our countrymen, from being of such easy ac cess, and so thoroughly described by travellers that, according to my design throughout these pages in regard to such localities, I shall not think of describing it in detail, and only observe that the same vivid impressions which it made upon me, in a former visit many years since, were again most strongly renewed. Again I ad mired the Church of St. Ouen, as presenting in its interior the purest and noblest specimen of Gothic architecture, free from all the decorations of false taste or modern upholstery ; again I heard the service in the Cathedral, most exciting to the outward senses, however inappropriate, in my mind, as Christian worship addressed to Almighty God : 1 mean the deep chaunt of numerous priests followed by an instrumental band, answered in its turn by the loud organ pealing in mighty music from the end of the vast edifice ; again I traversed the old over hanging streets, with all their quaint and varied architecture ; again I looked on the lofty head dress and rich costume of the female peasantry, far more peculiar than any thing met with on farther advance, in this direction, into France ; RAILROAD MEN. again I was forcibly reminded of history, and not unconnected, but exactly the reverse, with the history of our own land at its most remarkable epoch ; again I was delighted with ob serving the character of this city, as old and new in one ; as ancient and modern ; as full of recollections bringing to mind its past dignity, and full of sights denoting its present prospe rity.

How well is one time represented by its antiquated streets, another by its stirring quay ! And as you pass at once from one scene to the other, you can scarcely fail to realize the inte rest with which it is spoken of by travellers, without, so far as I know, one single exception. Oct. 1, Sunday. — I met to-day, in the hotel where we were staying, a gentleman engaged as a Catechist or teacher among the many English workmen now employed in the formation of the railroad in this immediate neighbourhood. He gave me various information on his proceedings, mentioning that he was acting under the sanction of Bishop Luscombe ; that the la bourers attended his services extremely well ; that he had on the Sunday three congregations at stations considerably distant from each other, besides several meetings in the week ; and that he had experienced much encouragement and RAILROAD MEN. liberal assistance from Mr. Brassy, the chief contractor for the works.

He also told me that there was no ordained clergyman of our Church* in the neighbourhood ; that many of his people were desirous of having their children baptized, and that, if I could wait till the ensuing evening, he would take advantage of my visit for the administration of that ordinance. I had in tended to leave Rouen the next morning, but readily consented to remain for this purpose. He also proposed that I should preach that evening to the workmen at Melauny ; but I unfortunately lost this privilege by an unavoid able mistake as to the means of conveyance. • These circumstances are now (1844) altered, the Lord Bishop of London having licensed the Rev. George Stokes as chaplain to the British residents in Rouen. He now officiates there, and [ understand that there are hopes of purchasing one of the old churches in the town as a place of worship for the English.

I copy a portion of an advertisement of Decemher, 1843, connected with the subject, and showing the claims of the place on the estab lishment of such a ministry. " Independent of numerous tra vellers, the immense influx of artisans, labourers, and others from this country, in connexion with railways, cotton factories, gas works, foundries, commerce, &c. has rendered the establish ment of a regular ministry absolutely necessary. ' Lloyd's List' states that within the first six months of the present year seven hundred and sixty British vessels have entered the port of Rouen ; and, computing each crew at ten men, we have of sailors alone not less than three hundred wandering about the streets of this populous city, and on the Sabbath-day, without a church in which to worship, or a clergyman to counsel or console them."

FRENCH COUNTRY-HOUSE. 7 Oct. 2. — The weather, which had been very rainy for the last few days, cleared up a little this afternoon, and gave us an opportunity of driving a few miles in the direction of Cau debec to see a magnificent view of the Seine and of the City of Rouen from the grounds of the Chateau de Canteleu. After ascending a very long and steep hill, we reached the large iron gates opening to the country-house of that name. All looked grand and solitary, and we hesitated to enter till encouraged by a man at work in a neighbouring field. From different circumstances, we were under the impression that the owner was absent, and accordingly left our pony carriage at the back of the mansion without driving up to the door, and proceeded to the point of view at the other side of the house.

While we were employed in admiring it, as it so well deserved, a gentleman ap proached us who proved to be the owner, and we of course made every apology in our power for having thus invaded his pleasure-grounds without asking permission at the house, as un doubtedly we ought to have done. However, by his kindness he at once put us entirely at ease, and accompanied us to all the best points of view with the utmost attention and courtesy. Below the grand terrace or platform where we FRENCH COUNTRY-HOUSE. stood were woods, chalk cliffs, and shrubberies. These were bounded at the distance of a few hundred yards by the broad and winding river Seine, which, flowing from our right, passed us in a straight line, curved then rapidly to Rouen, which it bordered, and then continued its graceful sweep in the distance till lost behind intervening hills.

The whole space within this circling curve was occupied by meadow-land of the most verdant green. Altogether the scene was magnificent. After we had passed some time in enjoying the view, Monsieur L proposed a visit to his house, where we saw some rooms beautifully decorated in arabesque, and a little museum con taining a collection of stuffed birds, chiefly of the small varieties, in the freshest and brightest state of preservation. Several rooms were hung with valuable prints, many among them being English. When we came to the well-known engraving of the present Duchess of Sutherland and her infant daughter from Sir Thomas Law rence's picture, he pointed with a smile to the child, and said, " I believe that young lady is just married." Our kind host then took us into his own study, which was arranged with much comfort and taste, and with a cheerful fire blaz ing on the hearth.

We had then some conver- BAPTISM OF CHILDREN. sation on literary and classical subjects, in which he appeared to me a man of varied information and much devoted to study and the arts. As he handed Mrs. T into our pony-carriage, he was kind enough to express himself much pleased with our communications, and I did my best to express my sense of the very obliging manner in which we, though perfect strangers, had been received by him. I know few things of their kind more gratifying than recep tions of such a character as we wander, unknown strangers, in a foreign land. It is, of course, not fair to expect them ; but when the kindness and personal attention of the owner thus accom panies the free admission to his home, the act is one of no slight courtesy, and ought to be felt and acknowledged.

A congregation of between forty and fifty persons, all connected with the works on the railroad in this neighbourhood assembled this evening in a room of our hotel. No less than seven children were brought to be baptized ; and as I entered the room, I observed with no little interest, that the first circle round the table, on which the Bible and Prayer-book were placed. was composed of mothers, each with a baby in her arms. The appearance of the men, partly from that handsome style of holiday dress which b BAPTISM OF CHILDREN. so many of them wear on Sundays and special occasions, partly from the size and development of their limbs, and partly from their independent look and bearing, would have told me at once the nature of their vocation. I had known too many of them at Reading to forget these marked characteristics.

After the prayers, an address, and a psalm, I baptized the children who were present. All was done " in decency and order" as to the sponsors connected with the ordinance; and the names of the children were inscribed on a list to be forwarded to Bishop Luscombe at Paris. I was much pleased with the earnest at tention exhibited by all present. Several French servants and other inmates of the house were gathered about the door during our service, and looked on with much curiosity and interest at our simple and spiritual devotions. At the conclusion, I received many thanks and cordial shakes of the hand. One man came up and told me that he had heard me preach before, both at Reading and Southampton. I trust that many opportunities of exercising my ministry will be granted to me during my journey.

The minister of Jesus Christ, when in adequate health, should ever remember and realize his Lord and Master's command : " As ye go, preach." Oct. 3. — We proceeded this afternoon to Lou- BANKS OF THE SEINE. viers, "the clear sun shining after rain." Our little equipage, when brought to the door in the morning, caused the greatest curiosity and admi ration from being of a kind quite unknown in France. It was merely a light, low, cane-bodied little phaeton, with a seat behind. Thirty or forty spectators formed a circle round it to-day, when brought to the door of the hotel. The ponies, also, from their small size and breed received their full share of attention. Various were the favourable and endearing epithets be stowed upon them, and many were the discus sions between their respective admirers as to the comparative merits of "la petite grise," and " la petite rouge," one being grey, and the other bay.

Oct. 4. — The day was again delightful. Rich cultivation, a varied surface of ground, noble and most extensive views, obtained as we sur mounted successive hills, and specially a sight of the tall cliff's and banks overhanging the Seine, in view during the greatest part of this day's journey, made it altogether a most gratifying course. At Vernon, where we stopped to feed the ponies, we crossed the bridge and examined a very large and handsome specimen of those towers which in ancient days were erected to command the passages of rivers. BEAUTIFUL SCENE. We here exercised the independence, as to line of progress, which our mode of travelling admits by crossing the Seine, and turning back on the opposite side of the river to visit Chateau Gaillard, and the two small adjacent towns, both bearing the name of Andelys.

Having passed through a forest of considerable extent we came all at once in sight of the Chateau,* boldly and prominently standing out from the lofty hill on our right, and brilliantly coloured by the rays of the setting sun. We were in time to ascend and visit it before the scene around had lost the beauty of the light — half golden, half purple — in which it was steeped and bathed. The ruins, those of a fortress, are still in good preservation as ruins, an expression which travellers will easi ly understand, and through the old windows and loop-holes a beautiful scene was spread out before us. Immediately below the Castle lies the small town of Andelys, occupying a bend of the river's bank. The river, accommodating itself to the steep cliffs, which here make a very abrupt * The history of the Castle cannot be given in better words than those of Murray's Hand-book for France.

" It was begun and finished in one year by King Richard, Cœur de Lion, in defiance of his rival Philip Augustus, and in the face of the treaty of Louviers, by which he had bound himself not to fortify Andelys, the little town on the strand at the river side. He thus broke it in sub stance, while he kept it to the letter." GRAND ANDELYS. angle, departs at almost a right angle from its previous course. A light and graceful suspen sion bridge adds to the variety of the scene, and a vast expanse of meadow, bounded by distant hill, gives repose and richness around. In order to find adequate accommodation for the night, we were obliged to leave the banks of the river, and to penetrate the country for about a mile to the town called Grand Andelys, where there is no beauty of scenery, no castle, no river, nor anything to afford interest.

Although the other Andelys is neither on the railroad, nor on the direct highway from Rouen to Paris, yet I should suppose, that if a small inn of some at traction, such as those of which there are so many in Switzerland and on the Rhine, were built here, it would be frequented by many summer travellers coming to visit the Castle, and enjoy the beauty of the neighbourhood. Oct. 5. — To-day we again passed through Vernon, and then went to Mantes,* skirting * It was in this city that William the Conqueror met his death from a fall of his horse while galloping among the burn ing ruins of the town, which by his orders had been set on fire. His previous illness — the fury in which he arose from his bed in consequence of a joke uttered by Philip, King of France — the accident which proved fatal to him, his death, and the confusion and strange circumstances which attended his burial, are all described in the most graphic manner by Thierry, in his History of the Norman Conquest, Book vn.

ARRIVAL IN PARIS. the park and red Chateau of Rosny, where Sully was born and dwelt. The next day we reached Paris, entering the city by that truly magnificent approach along the avenue ot Neuilly, by the triumphal arch, the Champs Elysees and Place de la Concorde. Our moment of arrival was most favourable, just at the Hyde Park hour of Paris. There was a lively display of carriages, horsemen, and pe destrians ; and, as we approached the grand gilded fountains on the Place de la Concorde, the waters were flashing in the sun, and we were altogether welcomed by a most cheering scene on this our entrance to the fair capital of France. We only remained at Paris ten days. Our view of its mirabilia was, of course, very cursory ; and had it been much longer, I should not have thought it in character with these pages to dwell upon them at length.

I know few things more crude and unsatisfac tory than the statements of a mere passing traveller in regard to great capitals. If he aims at details, they are in general much better given in the usual guide-books. If he at tempts to generalize, he will most likely fall into error from the want of information adequately copious for his purpose. VERSAILLES. 15 Versailles, Oct. 14. — In regard to this town, it seems to me unique in its form and arrange ment. Grand, open, and extensive, it is all built subsidiary to, and symmetrically with, the Palace. As on the one side of that vast central edifice there are terraces, avenues, and vistas of trees, forming the garden, so on the other there are terraces, avenues, and vistas of houses, forming the town. Carlsruhe, in Baden, has some similarity in its distribution, being all in view of, and in harmony with, the Palace of the Margrave.