A Walk round Mont Blanc, etc

Chapter II. Speed In Travel

— RAILWAY — BELOIC GUARDS — COLOGNE — THE RHINE REVISITED — NIGHT SCENE 11

Chapter III. German Students

— DUELS — FOREIGN COSTUME — FOREIGN TASTE — THE RHINE REVISITED LIFE LOst NIGHT PASSAGE .... IS

Chapter IV

early dawn black forest the crops englisn travellers a query a recognition german diligence drive to basle — school holiday — french railroad tnree kings — foreign hotels: their arrangements — the magi — moonlight — RAPIDITY OF TRAVEL 26

Chapter V. Val De Moutier

— OUR PARTY — PEDESTRIANISM — THE SCENERY — WILD BIRD — EVENING 42

Chapter VI. Uibatu Abroad

— CHURCH SERVICE — POPERY — THE CON- TRAST — PROTESTANT WORSHIP OXFORD TO ROME, ETO. — OUR TIMES — AN EXTRACT — STRANGE DELUSION — CHURCH AT MOU- TIEES — THE SERMON — SWISS PASTOR — EDUCATION — STATE OF SWITZERLAND — RELIGION — SWISS CHILDREN — CHURCH SERVICE . 50 1/ CONTENTS.

Chapter VII

I* OUR HOTEL — MORNING LOVELY SCENES — CONVERSATION COMPA- NIONSHIP — SCENES AROUND A CALAMITY — HEAT — ALPINE VIEW — GEOLOGY — LAKES IN VIEW : TnEIR COURSE — NAVIGATION — A FIRE FIRE ENGINE POLITICS NEUFCIIATEL MANUFACTURES . 68

CHAPTER VIIL MORNING WALK

— ALFINE CHAIN — BEAUTIFUL DRIVE YVERDUN — LAUSANNE — VEVAY 86

Chapter IX. Lake Op Geneva

— OLARENS — CHURCHYARD — CHILLON — TnE CASTLE — HISTORY — DUNGEONS • — ■ ANTIQUITIES — THE PRISON — HISTORY WALK ONWARD A CONTRAST*: BEATTIE'S TESTIMONY Till: THEBAN LEGION — MARTYRDOM — RUINS OF NATURE GRAND WATERFALL: ITS FEATURES SWISS CARRIAGE MARTIONY PERILOUS SITE MY HOTEI/ — ENGLISH PARTY — (SEVERE ACCIDENT 02

Chapter X. Morning Walk

— THE FOROLAZ — STEEP ASCENT SCENE AROUND — VALLEY OF TRIENT OTIALET — THE COL GLACIERS MY GUIDE — AVALANCHE — RUINS — PRIESTCRAFT ROMISH EFFORTS — STATE OF ENGLAND OH AMONIX— PLAN OF EXPEDITION — ENGLISH PARTY 116

Chapter XIV. My Guide

— TRAVELLERS BOOK — EXTRACT — MR. WOOLLEY S ASCENT — MR. AULDJO'S ASCENT DEPARTURE — GUIDES — REGULATIONS — SWOLLEN STREAMS GRAND SCENE PEDESTRIAN niNTS — EX- PENSES' COL DE VOSA — MOUNTAIN STORM — WAYSIDE CHAPELS IMAGES — IMAGE WORSHIP — ABSOLUTIONS MIGRATIONS — CONTA- MINES — STORMY NIGnT 166

Chapter XV. Comparison

— CONSULTATION WEATHER — OUR PROGRESS — TnE ASCENT — COL DE BON nOMME — WILD PATH GUIDE'S STORY — Till: PATH PERILS AND DEATHS DESCENT CATTLE CnAPRIU MY LODGING MY HOSTESS — ITALIANS — AN ARRIVAL A DERIVATION ) 9

Chapter XVI. Morning

— COL DE LA SEIGNE MY FELLOW-TRAVELLER — THE COI, — MOUNTAIN-TORRENT — GLACIERS — GLACIER DE BRENVA — BEAU- TIFUL AVALANCnE — SCENE AROUND CORMAYEUR — HOTEL GUESTS — ST. DIDIER — MONT BLANO — MY FELLOW-TRAVELLER .... 212

Chapter XVII. Dawn

— VALLEY OF AOSTA — CROPS AND FOLIAGE SUNLIGHT EFFECTS — AOSTA — ITALIAN INN — ITALIAN HOSPITAL — ITALIAN PHYSICIAN — EVENING WALK — ST. REMY — NAPOLEON — NARRATIVE . . . 226

Chapter XVIII. My Lodging

— AVALANOnES — ST. BERNARD — THE HOSPICE — RECEP- TION — MUSEUM — THE BRETHREN — GUIDE'S DEPARTURE — THE SABBATH — GUIDE COMMENDED — DINNER AT THE MONASTERY BILL OF FARE — THE BRETHREN— ST. AUOUSTIN — ALPINE GARDEN — SOLITARY WALK — ACCIDENT— NAPOLEON — ANECDOTE — FRENCH ARMY — FALLING ROCKS — HARVESTING BUILDINGS .... 237*

Preface

. The following Diary is written and published in the hope of its meeting no unfavourable acceptation on the part of two different classes of readers. The first class to which I refer is that numerous body of persons who, although pre vented by various circumstances from making any such expeditions as that mentioned here, do nevertheless very much enjoy the description of such scenes as those which the author visited, as well as the personal narrative of that which meets the traveller on his way. And there are many who value such narratives, just in proportion to the close, graphic detail of the writer's pro ceedings, inasmuch as they are thus enabled, in i\ TREFACE. a certain degree, to share in his onward course, and become, as it were, almost his fellow travellers. I have also another class in my mind, to whom I trust that this volume will not prove altogether useless.

I allude to those who have, like the author, the privilege of being engaged in full and continued duties, leaving them only limited periods which they can employ in change and recreation. Many such persons love and delight in the grand features which the earth presents as keenly, perhaps more keenly, than those whose full and unrestricted leisure enables them to wander where they please, and as long as they please. And, therefore, it becomes of no little consequence for them to ascertain what extent of course can be advantageously performed in a given period, as well as the exact means to be pursued for a judicious outlay and arrangement of their time. To such persons I venture to offer this small volume If they can command one single mouth

PREFACE.

. III at a favourable season of the year,* and if capable of bearing a certain amount of bodily exertion, they may accomplish exactly the same course as that described in the following pages. And I can truly say that I am not aware ei having once, during the whole expedition, felt regret at having selected any single part of my excursion, or any wish that I had substituted some other line in preference to that which I had been led to adopt. It will be a sincere gratification to me, if this narrative should prove interesting and service able in the manner thus described. And let me beg my readers to remember, that, if they find little or nothing of deeper or more laboured subjects here, such could scarcely be expected from the record of one month's recreation : and nothing more is claimed for this volume.

Few things have been more pleasing to my feelings than to hear of my former works, of a similar character, as supplying in times of weak- * I should recommend July or August as the best. n

PREFACE.

. ening illness, or of depressing grief, that varied aliment for the mind and the heart, which was felt to be cheerful and exhilarating, whUe, at the same time, it was not devoid of Christian and Scriptural truth, intermingled with all, as opportunity arose. And should the Author have succeeded here in giving expression and per manence to any thought which, lightly playing* around mind or heart of any future readers, whether at home or abroad, — whether in their homes or on the mountain steep, may not only please, but also edify, by directing the affections unto the mighty Gon of all providence and grace, or in any other way, then he will not have noted and written in vain, and such a result will prove a full reward for that additional attention and time which the pages of his Journal have, of course, received, to meet the public eye. * The thought is suggested by the beautiful couplet of Persius, descriptive of a predecessor in poetic art, as one who in his writings " circum prœcordiu ludit." A WALK ROUND MONT BLANC.

Chapter I. Plan Of Journey

— THE PASSAGE — ARRIVAL — FESTIVAL. Tuesday, July 6th. — Having unexpectedly met with the valued offer of clerical assistance for a month from one* to wThose care I could entrust my charge with the fullest confidence in his doctrine, assiduity, and pastoral love, I determined to employ this short vacation from my ordinary duties by a visit to Mont Blanc — that grand marvel, not only of Europe, but of the whole world, which was altogether new to me, my acquaintance with the locality being limited to one distant and momentary view of its summit which I had from Geneva many years ago. • The Hon. and Rev. W. Wingfield, Rector of Abbeyleix.. PLAN OF JOURNEY. My plan and intention was this— to employ a week in reaching the vicinity of Mont Blanc, a fortnight in excursions connected with the various scenes which it presents, and a week in returning home.

I expected to derive much refreshment and general benefit, both for body and mind, from this expedition ; much gratification in accomplishing it, and a rich store of those en during reminiscences, which scenes even far less impressive have not failed to fix upon my mind with indelible stamp, even as fair pictures, loved and cherished, and adorning the walls of one delighting in their ownership. I was on this occasion unable to enjoy the companionship of one in whose society I have had the happiness to make those previous journeys of which I have already recorded the details in print ; and circumstances also obliged me to decline more than one invitation from highly valued friends about to direct their steps towards the same localities as those to which I was myself going. Nevertheless, I did not set out without the expectation that my journey might prove not altogether solitary, or without a readiness to profit by such companionship as might be pro vided for me on my way.

THE PASSAGE. This anticipation was very speedily realized ; for, on descending into the cabin of the Triton — bound from London to Ostend — on a most lovely morning (I refer to Tuesday, the 6th of July), the very first passenger I saw was one* well known for zeal, eloquence, and labours in the cause of Divine truth, — one whom I had known slightly before, and in whose society I now found that true pleasure and benefit which talents, and graces, and information like his, accompanied with all cordial friendliness of heart, can scarcely fail to communicate. Our passage was very agreeable, except for about an hour, about half-way across, when we were enveloped in a sudden and unexpected mist, so thick that even in the middle of a mid summer's day we passed by more than one large sailing-vessel lying to, and looming suddenly upon us through the dense, heavy atmosphere.

The mate and sailors of the vessel spoke of this mist as most unusual in its degree for the present season of the year, although they had met with it in the same place on the previous day ; and certainly they did not seem to like it at all, keenly looking out for other sails from all * The Rev. Robert M'Ghee. THE PASSAGE. parts of our vessel, and strongly expressing their preference of any other sort of weather— rain, or storm, or whatever it might be — to that which we were experiencing at the time. In the small party composing the passengers, there were not wanting some to hold religious conversation ; and I observed, not without in terest, how earnestly the captain — a true repre sentative of a stout English sailor — listened to the plain, hearty, and eloquent language in which my reverend brother mentioned above set forth the truths connected with the Gospel ; telling of man's fall, his full redemption by Christ, the need of the Holy Spirit's operation on the soul, and the blessedness of that safety and peace which comes from the knowledge of a reconciled Father and God.

When he had done speaking, the captain eagerly asked me what his name was j and I tried to follow the lesson given in the deed of Aaron and Hur, by seeking to sustain his hands, and to corroborate his words with a few additional remarks bearing on the same truths. I also put into his hands a copy of that admir able tract, "The Brazen Serpent," which, as a clear and simple exposition of the Gospel, well deserves all possible circulation. ARRIVAL. Ostend is, in reality, a town of considerable size ; but, as seen from the water, presents the most insignificant appearance. It is, in fact, hid behind the dykes and fortifications with which it is surrounded. There is little to interest in the place, though many and many a traveller from England's shore has here first stood on foreign ground, first heard a foreign language spoken around him, and first realized those keen feelings of interest which such an occasion is calculated to convey.

I well remember the animating effect of a first morning on the Continent in this very place, on one thus circumstanced, whose fellow-traveller I was at the time. My own first morning on a foreign soil was in a locality and scene very much superior — in the town of Rouen • and from that day to this that city has had for me an indescribable charm, independent of its grand and beautiful features, striking and attractive as they are. We went to the Hotel d'Allemagne, which is good and well situated, and were immediately attended to by a crowd of those young obliging waiters who are met with in the large hotels in the grand route of travelling on the Continent, and who generally contrive to speak a httle b FESTIVAL. English. The reception, as usual, seemed all confusion, but, in reality, everything in these hotels, where sometimes more than a hundred guests come in the night and depart in the morning, is conducted with the utmost regu larity, and each servant has his own duty exactly and strictly prescribed.

The whole town wras in a state of motion and excitement, from its being the time of the kirmes ■ — an anniversary half religious and half social, on which the people employ two or three days in special festivity. Music was sounding on all sides, and children were dancing in circles round lighted tapers and lamps. The coffee-houses were crowded with visitors, all singing one song, set by some one in each apartment ; and the streets were crowded with pedestrians. The town presented no slight contrast to the dull ness and stillness prevailing in it under ordinary circumstances ; and the noise and bustle con tinued far into the night. SPEED IN TRAVEL. 11

Chapter II. Speed In

TRAVEL— RAILWAY — BELGIC GUARDS — COLOGNE — TUE RHINE REVISITED — NIGHT SCENE. Wednesday, July 7th. — It appears to me, in general, that the pleasure and profit of travelling are in the inverse ratio of its speed ; and that just in proportion as you travel quick, you lose all the advantages for which you travel at all. You have no time for observation — no opportunity for communication with the inhabitants of each separate locality — no means of entering at all into the tone and peculiar characteristics of each land which you visit. Having said this, I am bound to give my excuse, or rather my reason, for that rapidity with which I travelled this day, as well as for some days following, although passing by some of the most RAILWAY. interesting and curious cities in the world — I allude to those of Belgium— as well as through a country distinguished, perhaps, above any other known land for its agriculture, and with no small claims to attention from the manufacturing in dustry, enterprise, and skill, displayed by its inhabitants.

My excuse, or rather, as I said before, my reason, was, that I had another and specific object in view, which, from my time being strictly limited, I could not possibly ac complish, except by resisting all inducements to deviate, for any purpose, from my way, and to tarry among other scenes, even for the shortest period. Accordingly, I took my place from Ostend to Cologne — a journey of fourteen con secutive hours by railroad — although Bruges, Ghent, Antwerp, Brussels, Liege, and Louvain, were either on the line, or close to it j and although my acquaintance with these cities has hitherto been of the most superficial kind. Mont Blanc was in view, and for it I felt myself bound. Nothing can surpass the convenience of having such a communication as that osthe Belgian railroad, just where it is — leading direct to that grand European roadway, the Rhine ; while, at BELGIC GUARDS. 13 the same time, the slowness of the trains, their constant stoppages, the rough and uneasy movement on a great part of the line, and the clouds of dusty sand with which, in summer, the pas sengers are enveloped, render the course by no means agreeable ; and there is but one universal testimony of travellers to their gratification on finishing this part of their journey.

There is another peculiarity also in the transit, so far as one sense of the traveller from England is con cerned; you cannot help perceiving as you proceed that the air is all impregnated with one peculiar odour ; and, if inexperienced in the matter, it is not till after some inquiry and observation, that you discover this to be the result of the vast quantity of tobacco in progress of consump tion by the various travellers of the convoy. Nominally and professedly, smoking is forbidden in the carriages generally, as well as in the station-rooms ; but, virtually and practically, the case is altogether different, and the guards them selves are often actively engaged in adding to the perfume. " Quis custodies ipsos custodes?" and if so, what Belgian or Prussian functionary will treat the most determined smoker with anything but tenderness ?

Accordingly, the open and COLOGNE. third-class carriages are full of the most perse vering and active consumers of cigars or of tobacco in pipes ; and hence the stream of im pregnated air which meets all those who travel in the rear of the train — that is, in the first or second-class carriages. We found that many of the functionaries con nected with the railroad were able to speak English, and all were obliging and attentive to inquiries. One was highly courteous, putting an unpleasant alternative in very choice language. An Englishman, playfully assuming that he had no passport, asked what woidd be the consequence to him ; " Je serais oblige de vous inviter de retourner, Monsieur," was the answer, conveyed in a tone the most quiet, and expressing that, while it was a subject of necessity, it was one of sincere regret.

To dwell on the features of a country as observed from the window of a raiboad carriage, ivould be idle indeed ; I shall therefore only say, that as we approached Liege, the vast and richly cultivated plain wdiich we had so long traversed, was exchanged for some scenery of a very varied and romantic character, and that from hence to Cologne the country presents a succession of THE RHINE REVISITED. attractive views, terminated at their close by the steeples of Cologne, and its cathedral, rising aloft in the air, with the grand, but disunited portions of architecture forming its double top. We reached this city at about eight o'clock, and proceeded for the night to the Hotel Royal, a large and well-conducted establishment on the borders of the Rhine. From my bedroom window I had a near and full gaze of that glorious river.

Often as I have seen it before, my admiration and delight at beholding it again were in no wise less vivid than on former occasions. The variety of form presented by other rivers and streams, adds in some degree to your interest in seeing them at different seasons, or under different states of the w eather. But the peculiar aud impressive feature of the Rhine, seems to me to be this — its com parative identity of character at all times. I do not mean to say that it undergoes no changes as to fulness or emptiness j no changes of colour, no changes of surface-motion, according to the calm or the breeze ; but what I mean to say is, that the Rhine, as seen on the border of the Rhenish provinces, is subject, comparatively speaking, to so little variation, that you may see NIGHT SCENE. it year after year, and at many a contrasted season, and yet recognise no alteration in its face.

I can give my own testimony. Whenever I have seen it here, it has appeared to me just the same as it did this night — full to its borders, yet without overflowing — swift in its current, yet with its surface scarcely more disturbed than some peaceful lake — exhibiting no track of violence or devastation, even amounting to a shoal thrown up, or the smallest portion of its banks thrown down — and peaceably bearing on its bosom the long bridge of boats, which spans so trustfully its waters, bearing the throngs which traverse it day and night, within a few feet of the deep and mighty stream. Immediately opposite Cologne, and at the end of the wooden bridge, stands the small town of Deutz. The most conspicuous buildings are three large and handsome hotels, which are at this moment brilliantly lighted up, and reflect a deep illumination on the stream.

In a garden attached to one of these hotels a numerous band is playing, and the music is floating across the water in rich aud mellowed tones. I had not been long gazing on this scene, when I heard to my left a light splashing of the NIGHT SCENE. water, and looking round, I saw one of the long, light, graceful steam-boats, approaching, and pouring forth, as it moved along, a track of brilliant light, dancing and playing on the stream. The effect was very beautiful. GERMAN STUDENTS.

Chapter III. German Students

— DUELS— FOREIGN COSTUME— FOREIGN TASTE — THE RHINE REVISITED — LIFE LOST — NIGHT PASSAGE. Thursday, July 8th. — At six o'clock this morning I embarked in the steamboat, which reaches Mayence in the course of the day. The chief peculiarity among the passengers assembled, was to be seen in the dress and visages of several German students, who formed part of the com pany. Some of them wore red caps, others white hats — and there was every possible variety, both in the colour and shape of their general habili ments. The peculiarities observable in their coun tenances were these : every one, old enough to have any beard or moustache at all, wore it ; and one-third, at least, osthe number, had certain lines of sharp healed cuts across forehead, cheek, or chin; showing the result of those foolish and Bangui- DUELS nary duels, which form a regular and systematic pursuit in some among the German universities.

An Englishman, who had been himself a student at Heidelberg, had on a former occasion given me that information on the subject which enabled me to recognise on the faces before me that pre cise mark which the weapon in use would inflict. He described that weapon to me as a sharp, light-cutting sword, chiefly swayed by the motion of the wrist. So far as I could under stand, from the experience of my informant, such was the love of fighting these duels, and such the pertinacity in upholding the system, that meetings were periodically held, at which large bodies of the students attended, with the very intention of giving aud receiving challenges; and although, on their entrance, no one had any peculiar cause for a quarrel with another indi vidually, yet before their close numerous combats or duels were in prospect.

The young men belonged to different parties, bodies, or corps — perhaps of seventy or eighty in each — and after exciting music, some one would exclaim, as a challenge to one of a contrary faction, " I woidd not take wine with such or such a one !" giving the name of that individual to whom he FOREIGN COSTUME. alluded. A challenge and a duel were the con sequence ; and one combat after another would thus, and for such a cause only, be arranged ere the meeting wras concluded. This, indeed, is fighting for nothing ! and in a civilized nation, seldom have I heard of any pro ceedings more habitually sanguinary. Certainly, death does not often ensue from these wicked and unmeaning combats, but maiming and serious injuries are the frequent consequence ; neither is death itself an unknown thing as the result.

During the short period of my stay on the Continent during this year, viz. one month, I read in one of the foreign journals the account of a young man found by the police dying in his bed, from the injuries inflicted in one of these university duels. To give a specimen of the extraordinary costumes worn by foreigners when upon their travels : There was on the deck to-day a sedate man of middle age, apparelled in the following manner : — he had on his head a flexible green hat, shaped like that in favour among our railroad labourers, and ornamented with tassels; his spectacles were green ; his moustache was of im mense length; he wore a short coat of dark purple; FOREIGN TASTE. a capacious leather tobacco-bag was attached to his side, and a long tobacco-pipe was hanging at his mouth during the greatest part of the day.

He came on the deck at Bonn, and perhaps he was a professor in that or some other of the German universities. A degree of singularity in appearance, which would set a crowd of Englishmen, of any rank, staring, perhaps laughing, and making personal remarks, has among foreigners no such effect whatsoever. At all events, much to their credit, they strictly avoid any exhibitions likely to annoy any individual whatever ; and if any allusion is made to dress, conveyance, or any circumstances connected with the mode in which choice, fancy, or necessity, leads any person to travel, they, with much delicacy, are ever ready to admit, or even to suggest, some appropriate reason. With them there is no Procrustean bed for application, in such matters, to each and to all. Well acquainted as I am with the Rhine, I very much enjoyed my course of this day, and was not at all disposed to sympathize with some present, who seemed inclined to disparage its beauties, and to treat it as some faithless friend might act towards the companion of his earlier THE RHINE REVISITED. days, after having seen the world, and formed new social connexions.

The Rhine is now so well known and frequented, that to speak of having been up the llhine, is almost like a person telling of an expedition up Regent-street or to Brighton ; and some whose circuit of travel has been somewhat extensive will scarcely render any honour to its banks. But this seems somewhat ignoble and unfair. The Rhine is still the same as when their eyes first gazed on its glory and its beauty. Our taste may become blunted and palled; oui' memory may become crowded ; repetition of visit may cause our enjoyment and our interest to wane, as we, time after time, move on its broad stream, or tread its fair brink; but, I repeat, the Rhine is still the same. Each year it is seen for the first time by fresh pilgrims. Each year, from all parts of the civilized world, fresh admirers come to gaze on its " exulting and abounding waters ;" while all the circumjacent features of the castle and rock,of the walled village, or widely-spreading city, of vineyard, corn-field, and grove, doubtless form a scene, numbered of old, and to be numbered still, among the fairest of the earth.

LIFE LOST. 23 Peacefully and gaily we accomplished our journey to Mayence. The sun shone upon us brightly. A gentle breeze met us refreshingly. All on board were friendly, social, and cheerful. But safe and smooth as all things would appear to be in such a course as this — far off as grievous accident and death might now seem, it is not always so. It was only last year that some near relations of my own were making the same expedition, and ascending this very river by one of these same boats, which now so gaily pass us, one after another. Then all at once the cry was heard, " A lady overboard !" and the body of a young foreign girl was seen in an instant far behind the boat, and borne away by the current. Nothing could be done for her rescue, and she perished in the waters. I understood from an informant to-day, that she had slipped through one of the small open spaces between the rails on the deck ; from another, that a cross-rail, on which she had been leaning, had suddenly given way.

She, thus snatched from life, was a girl of sixteen, going home from school in company with her governess and a younger brother! Quite appalling was the agony which the former displayed. NIGHT PASSAGE. As far as Mayence I had journeyed in com pany with my friend and brother in the ministry, to whom I alluded at the beginning of these pages. Henceforward our line of travel led in different directions, and here we accordingly parted. His powerful mind, his Scriptural clear ness on spiritual things, his conversational eloquence, and the life and humour of his true Irish character, rendered him a fellow-traveller in whose society any one able to appreciate such qualities must have found delight. I need not hesitate to say how much I enjoyed it, and more so, no doubt, receiving it on my way, which otherwise would have been thus far soli tary, just as a gift from Him, who provides us with the converse and companionships of each day and hour, as He provides us with the same even for the pilgrimage of life.

Not wishing to make any needless delay what soever in this part of my journey, and having arrived at a part of the Rhine where its features become of a more ordinary character, I took .advantage of a fine steamboat, named after our Queen, the Victoria, which left Mayence at ten this night for Manheim. The evening, though warm in its temperature, had become dark, black, NIGHT PASSAGE. 25 and gloomy, and a thunder-storm had com menced when I entered the vessel. The scene presented a singular contrast to that offered by the gay and crowded deck on which I had passed the day, amidst brightness, and sunshine, and the stir of travelling society. I could per ceive neither captain, nor sailor, nor any one else on the deck, when I stepped upon it a few minutes before setting off. On descending to the cabin, I found a large and handsome apart ment, fitted up with dark mahogany tables and furniture, and with one shaded lamp dimly burning in the middle of the room.