Scotland, its faith and its features; or, a Visit to Blair Athol

Preface

. It may very naturally be asked by those, who are unacquainted with the writer of these pages, how a Clergyman with the present engagements of the Author, could find either leisure to witness the things described in this work, or to describe them with that detail, which it will be found to contain. In answer to these very legitimate inquiries, he thinks it well to mention, that he only resumed the first office noticed in the title page on the first day of the present year — that he only commenced the second from the same period ; and that the third, though of somewhat longer duration, and highly valued by him from claims of friendship and esteem, involves, under ordinary circumstances, no claims whatever on a Clergyman's labour or time. y VI

PREFACE.

. One word more. With regard to the Author's course of travel, as now before the public for two successive years, he thinks it not irrelevant to state here, that to it he considers himself mainly indebted for that health which he now enjoys. With its complete restoration, he feels himself deeply indebted to Almighty God for being allowed once more to be engaged in that full and fixed pastoral work, which, though he cannot speak of himself, as one " peregrino labore fessus," (according to the feeling and expression of the Latin poet) is, nevertheless, better and happier than any other course of life of which he has had experience, or which he can at all conceive. Reading, February, 1846. CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. CHAFfER I. Scene of Travel — English Commons — Twyford Forest — Twyford School — Itchen Stoke — Reading — Country near Reading — Oxford — Country near Oxford ..... 1 — 10

Chapter II

Leamington — Bosworth Field — Calke Abbey — Popish Chapels — Sabbath Observance — Matlock — Haddon Hall — Ashford — Charity Baths — Manchester at night — Conduct of the people. 11—24

Chapter III

Salford — Rev. H — S — . — Sunday Schools — Lancashire Psalmody — Adult Scholars — Circulation ofthe Scriptures — The Sabbath — Christian Communions — Lancashire Dialect — Union School — Solitude of the Roads — View of Preston — Condition of Workmen — Mr. Swainson's Factory— Factory process — Roads and Inns 25—40 CONTENTS. VIII

Chapter IX

Lunatic Asylum— Arrangements — Dr. Hutcheson — Prevention of Insanity — Causes of Insanity — Occupation for the Insane — Means of Grace — Lunatics in Scotland — Parliamentary Statements — Country Visit — Glasgow Cathedral — Advance of Popery — Our Danger and Duty 90—102

Chapter X

Loch Lomond — Rob Roy — His real History — Rob Roy's Death — Loch Katrine — Overladen boat — The Trosachs— Scott's description — Scotch Piper — Evening Prayers — Walk to Callender — Stirling — French connection— Beautiful scene . 103 — 1 IS

Chapter XVI

Episcopal Services — Scotch Episcopal Church — The Free Church — Progress of the Free Church — Refusal of Sites — Importance of the Subject — Spirit of the Scotch — Points at Issue — Intentions ofthe Writer — Position ofthe Writer — Inverness Meeting — Position of Inverness — Object of the Assembly — Place of meeting — Numbers in attendance — Opening of the Assembly — — Proceedings — Missions — Sabbath question — Ecclesiastical questions — Translation of Ministers — Inverary — Removal of Pastors — Presbyterian Polity — Braemar — Dr. Candlish — Sabbath Services — Small Isles 167 203

Chapter XX

Politics — Free Church Leaders — Free Church prospects — Religion and Politics — Erroneous expectations — Power of Religion — A word to the Clergy — Our position — Church and State — Hypothetical cases — Church and State — Our Duty 250 — 263

Chapter XXI

Future Legislation — An Hypothesis — Late heresies — Perils of our day — Supposed conflict — A late conflict — An alternative — Need of watchfulness — Scottish inquiries — Cong^ d'Elire — Church and State 264 — 279

Chapter XXII

Veto Act — Patronage — Auchterarder Case — A Principle stated. 280—291 CONTENTS.

Chapter XXIII

Marnoch Case — Edinburgh Convocation — Free Church formed — Its recent History — Its present position — Its prospects — Headships of the Church — Opposing news — Scottish Principles — Historical notices— Means of judgment — Recent contests — Sir R. Peel's announcement 292 — SCOTLAND; ITS FAITH AND ITS FEATURES.

Chapter I

Scene of Travel — English Commons — Twyford Forest — Twyford School — Itchen Stoke — Reading — Country near Reading — Oxford — Country near Oxford. July 10, 1845.— We left F , on the Hampshire coast, this morning, with the intention of visiting Scotland, and of travelling leisurely through the north of England, both localities being hitherto quite unknown to me. I had long been desirous of adding some degree of personal acquaintance with the above-mentioned parts of our country to that which a permanent residence in the south of Great Britain, and a certain period passed in Ireland had given me regarding those portions of the realm, as to their inhabitants, local features, and general characteristics. Accordingly, as I had derived VOL. i. b SCENE OF TRAVEL. much satisfaction and advantage, in various ways, from travelling through France and a part of Spain in the manner described in my " Diary of Travels" in those countries, published last year, I again adopted the same means of locomotion, in spite of these railroad times, and set off northward, with my ponies, hoping and intending to exercise, day by day, though at home and " expers maris," that detailed inquiry and observation which I should have used, if travelling abroad, and feeling no doubt that at home as well as on the continent, abundant materials of useful and attractive interest would meet us on our way. 1 must leave it to my readers to judge, whether according to their views my expectations shall have been realized, and whether the objects to which I shall direct their notice shall have been suited to a Diary or not.

If the formei shall be found the case, I doubt not that what hat been adequate to interest the writer, will interest many others, whose eye this narrative may meet, howsoever humble its pretensions, and void of that high colouring, which distance and romance will of themselves and naturally confer on pages presenting their claims from the far " corners of the earth." Our drive to day led us through a portion of ENGLISH COMMONS. 3 those fresh, open, healthy commons, with which this neighbourhood abounds. To me they have always had, and have still, no slight charm, partly from their un-inclosed state, and the consequent freedom with which they may be traversed, whether on horseback or on foot ; and partly from the thought that in them the poorest have some rights — some " common" rights still.

Moreover I am fully convinced that, if there be a few slight objections to the vicinity of com mons, these only are experienced when they are mismanaged by the individuals in whom the rights and privileges are vested * and that under other circumstances much benefit results to parishes from the occasional plots granted to poor and industrious families, and to the poor at large from the annual and permanent benefit afforded to them, in collection of fuel, in the run for their cattle and live stock, and above all in a little elbow room around their abodes. After passing these commons, we entered a succession of beautiful lanes, where irregular and narrow strips of land on each side of the road, and bordering the large farms and fields beyond, are occupied by fruitful gardens and cottages — truly English cottages — covered with vines, roses, and all kinds of trailing foliage.

We then entered Twyford Forest, which, though not b2 TWYFORD FOREST. a very large tract, is nevertheless a perfect forest. It extends in some directions to a considerable distance — at all events as far as the eye, wandering among its glades, can reach, and presents a succession of detailed foreground, lovely and picturesque as any forest can offer. And in the very heart of this scene, three buildings, attractive in their architecture, appropriate to one another as well as to their good purpose, and forming by theirproximity one holy precinct tell, at once their own history to the traveller, as being the church, the school, and the parsonage. The forest has its many foresters, and these have now their means of grace. It was not so a few years since ; and well I remember the day, when this House of God was consecrated by that able and amiable Prelate, who has had the joy and privilege of consecrating so many similar edifices, not only in the more known quarters of his diocese, but also in the dells, the downs, and the woods, with which this part of England abounds.

What Christian Minister, accustomed to apply natural scenes to spiritual things, can pass the spot without in some measure sympathizing in the work of that faithful brother, who is now resident Pastor here, without some spiritual application of the scene around him, without the desire and prayer that here may be planted and grow many " trees TWYFORD SCHOOL. of righteousness, the planting of the Lord, that He may be glorified."* In former times I have often heard the inhabitants of this district spoken of as lawless and insubordinate. But on inquiring from the clergy man appointed to the charge, of which I am speaking, as to whether he had experienced any peculiar difficulties among them, I heard that the case was quite otherwise, and that he had every reason to be gratified and thankful in regard to the manner in which he himself, and his ministry had been here received.

After passing through the forest, we entered the village of Twyford — the place of my earliest school-days, and where the Rev. J. G. B — was then master. Though labouring early in life under one of the most severe visitations, that of blindness, he nevertheless exhibited a genius and aptness for his high and honourable office which no pupil of his should ever think of without acknowledgment and gratitude. The Rev. J. G. B — still lives in the scene of his successful exertions, and still has the pleasure of witnessing the flourishing condition of his former school. The situation is, to my mind, perfect ; and few things recur to my memory as more delightful than the half-holiday rambles * Isaiah, lxi. 3. ITCHEN STOKE. over the downs on one side of the village, or among the water-meadows on the other by the banks of the Itchen — a river dear to old Isaac Walton, and in certain weather almost as clear and transparent as the very air itself.

Passing by St. Cross, a curious old alms house, resembling very much a small college in its buildings and arrangements, at which every traveller, who applies, is entitled to receive a small supply of bread and beer, we reached Winchester, and then pursued our way along a very pleasant valley to Itchen Stoke, a distance of about six miles, where we remained for the night at the Rectory, my brother's residence. The whole parish is the property of Lord Ashburton ; and all the objects on which he has employed attention and expenditure, such as the farm-houses, cottages, church, school, parsonage, &c, bespeak a watchful and liberal proprietor. July 11. To Reading. — The first few miles of our course to-day brought us through the delightful grounds and park attached to the Grange, Lord Ashburton's residence.

We entered the plantations near to the village of Itchen-Stoke, passed by two of the most beautiful ornamental cottages* which I ever remember * During the whole of my subsequent course through England READING. to have seen, turned down to the right through a dark wood, and by a small ivy-covered castle, then ascended the hill opposite, and had a full view of a residence which has, in reality, what so many residences claim in vain, a truly Grecian and classical appearance. The ground is ter raced, though not formally, in front, and slopes downward towards a sheet of water, broad, winding, and covered with wild-fowl of various descriptions, which rose wheeling, flapping, and screaming in all directions, high above our heads. Leaving another ornamental cottage on the right, we quitted the park, passed through Basingstoke, and reached Reading in the evening.

There we remained for about ten days. Of the town and neighbourhood I will only say thus much, that I believe, as a town, it is excelled by none in England as to the high character of its inhabitants, whether speaking religiously, morally, or intellectually ; and that, on the whole, it is of much repute and prosperity, as a place of business, and most agreeable as a place of sojourn. and Scotland, I saw nothing in the way of cottage architecture which equalled or approached them in beauty and propriety of style. COUNTRY NEAR READING. The whole circuit of the country around is rich, varied, and beautiful ; for what vicinity in the midland parts of England can offer more attractive sights than the banks of the Thames to Henley on the one hand, or to Maple-Durham and to Streatley on the other, than the wild beech woods behind Caversham, or the rich succession of park scenery towards Newbury ?

And Shinfield, and Swallowfield, and Farley- Hill, and Strathfieldsaye, have their peculiar charms, which those who know them best will, I doubt not, appreciate the most. Such is the circuit of local beauty and attraction with which Reading is girt. I scarcely know one road, or one lane near it, where the course of a few miles will not refresh and delight the eye, if open to the loveliness of true English scenes. July 22. Reading to Leamington. — An hour's travelling by railroad brought us to Oxford early this morning. I can never pass by this city, or through its neighbouring locality, without strong impressions as to the permanency and unchanging character of the town and country. Certainly we now enter the town by the railroad, at a point where in former times few arrived at the place; and as we advance in the direction which we pursued to-day, the OXFORD. 9 newly erected Martyr's Cross rises as a testimonial of sympathy with the spirit by which our noble and blessed Reformers were influenced ; and here and there some grand recent edifice or local improvement appears — but nevertheless antiquity, permanence, and stability remain as the peculiar features of the town : and it is remarkable that the same character should equally apply to the surrounding country.

The frame suits the picture right well. I cannot recall any part of England, familiar to me twenty years ago, in which less alteration is visible. The roads, the farm-houses, the cottages, the fences, and stone-walls, remain precisely in statu quo, according to my remembrance of them when at college myself. Little or nothing has been added ; little or nothing has been removed. No trim citizen's box appears with its gay flowers and bright green palings. No chimney smokes on high to tell of manufacturing speculation as having visited this part of her Majesty's dominions. All the scenes in the immediate neighbourhood of Oxford seem, so to speak, stereotyped. They seem, notwithstanding these innovating times, to harmonize still in the most appropriate manner with the venerable town itself. They are solemn and impressive ; and though not what is called b COUNTRY NEAR OXFORD. picturesque, have their peculiar charms, which some, like Arnold, who was a first-rate judge of scenery, and very sensitive to its effect on the mind, have duly felt and prized.

I am well aware that to these remarks many, who know this country well, will feel no response. I write for those whose organ of locality is more developed — for those who are more sus ceptible on these points ; and I do not doubt that they will apprehend at once the bearing of these observations, as having realized themselves those very feelings to which, locally speaking, Oxford and its neighbourhood give rise. Our pony-carriage was waiting for us at the station, and we then pursued our journey northward through Banbury and Southam to Leamington. The whole country presented one almost uninterrupted succession of pasture land, denoting England to be indeed a meat-eating. and horse-using country far beyond all other lands. In no part of Europe have I ever seen such large districts devoted exclusively to grass as county after county in its midland parts exhibit.

Any one looking to the right and left as he journeys by the railroad from London to Liverpool may bear testimony to the truth of the observation. LEAMINGTON.

Chapter II

Leamington — Bosworth Field — Calke Abbey — Popish Chapels — Sabbath Observance — Matlock — Haddon Hall — Ashford — Charity Baths — Manchester at night— Conduct of the people. July 24. Leamington to Ashby-de-la- Zouch. — We were detained a day at Leamington by bad weather ; but our detention was of a very agreeable character, as although my own relatives, who reside there, were absent, we were received in the house of a friend whose spirit, conversation, and course of life, as a faithful and devoted servant of Christ rendered it a privilege to pass the day in his house and society. At parting the next morning he gave us an abundance of tracts, as seed to be sown on our way. A most acceptable present! Con tinuing our journey this morning, we went through Nuneaton and reached Ashby for BOSWORTH FIELD. the night, after passing through a country somewhat monotonous, but calling up at one spot interesting recollections of English history : for passing close to Bosworth field, we thought of Richard's defeat and those momentous consequences, which, by the blessing of God, followed the succession of the Tudors to the throne of Great Britain, under sovereigns who though they may have erred much and often, were still in God's hand mighty instruments towards the overthrow of Popery, and towards the establishment of true, scriptural religion in our land.

The evening was too gloomy and unfavour able to afford us much enjoyment in visiting the celebrated castle of Ashby-de-la-Zouch. Feeling therefore that I should not do it justice, I shall prefer to omit any notice of the scene, which at this day it presents, ennobled as it is by history, and clothed with fresh interest by the genius of Walter Scott. July 25. To Rowsley Hotel, Derbyshire. — Our first stage this morning was to Derby. The features of the country now became more bold and varied than they had been hitherto. We went a short distance out of our way, in order to pass half an hour with a friend, who was staying at Calke Abbey. This fine residence CALKE ABBEY. 13 and its adjoining park contain in themselves all those features of wood, water, hill, dale, and pleasure ground, which form the completeness of an English gentleman's demesne of the first class.

It is not long since its late owner has departed from this present world, having died in the prime of life, leaving a widow and young family. During his stay on earth, he was distinguished for his Christian faith and zeal in his Master's service.* His memory is blessed. And though he left a fair abode, he dwells in a nobler mansion, in a richer inheritance now. "To depart and be with Christ is far better than any earthly good." (Phil. i. 23.) Our arrangements for the day's journey would not admit of our spending sufficient time at Derby to see the manufactories, or other interesting objects, which that prosperous town contains ; but we regretted this the less from being in hopes of revisiting the place on our return southward, as Derby forms a converging point from many northern roads. During a short walk we noticed a very » During an election, when party spirit was very bitter against that side which Sir G — C — espoused, at his appearance on the hustings, no more taunting or adverse word was uttered from the crowd than the honourable, though derisive exclamation, " Now, Sir George, give us a sermon."

POPISH CHAPELS. handsome church in progress of erection, and on the other side of the street a Romish Chapel opened a few years ago. The inside of the latter edifice was very simple, in comparison with foreign churches, neither did I notice figures of the crowned Virgin or other reprehen sible ornaments and decorations, similar to those in which Popery delights abroad. I have myself no doubt that they will be introduced, as priests and Jesuits can bring our countrymen to bear them. This is the policy of their system, unchanging and unchangeable, whether as to creed or ritual. I mentioned the comparative freedom here from objects of an idolatrous and unscriptural character to a faithful and watchful brother-minister, who immediately remarked, " The chapel at Derby was built a few years ago.

But as the Romish cause has rapidly advanced since that time, so the chapels more recently built in England are adorned and fitted up with far less reserve. As times favour the system, so the system expands." It gave me much gratification to hear that the numerous churches of this important city are now occupied by enlightened and devoted ministers. Among other christian objects in which they have zealously exerted themselves is that of the due observance of the Lord's SABBATH OBSERVANCE. day. A glorious object too ! With it all spiritual blessings to our country are most inti mately joined. What a solemn passage is that in the Prophet Jeremiah, xvii., 21 — 27,* where the downfall or continuance of a nation is closely connected with this special observance. May the people of England, whether rich or poor, lay such passages to heart, and act upon them in zeal, perseverance, fearlessness, and truth !

Shortly after leaving Derby we entered the beautiful valley which leads by Matlock and Buxton to Manchester. The hills here rise very boldly, and are either thickly clothed with wood, or luxuriant with pas- * " And it shall come to pass, if ye diligently hearken unto me, saith the Lord, to bring in no burden through the gates of this city on the Sabbath day, but hallow the Sabbath day, to do no work therein ; then shall there enter into the gates of this city kings and princes sitting upon the throne of David riding chariots and on horses, they, and their princes, the men of Judah, and the inhabitants of Jerusalem ; and this city shall remain for ever." I quote only two verses, but the whole passage well deserves national attention ; and in speaking of the Sabbath, let it ever be remembered that it was an ordinance for all nations, cotemporary with the creation ofthe world, Gen. ii. 3, and not as many persons either ignorantly or deceitfully maintain, a mere appointment for the Jews.

Some perhaps might think this observation needless, but I well remember that an assertion, of the kind, which I would endeavour to expose, was made in the House of Commons. MATL0CK. ture, while manufacturing activity displays itself on all sides. As we advanced, the road was not destitute of features resembling some of the mountain passes of the continent ; and the situation ofthe clustering and hanging residences forming the well-known Matlock Baths, with the abrupt curve of the valley, and the river over hung with trees reminded me of St. Sauveur, and other small towns among the Pyrenees. Passing through Matlock, we stopped for the night at an inn, standing by itself, and very old and picturesque in its appearance, called Rowsley Hotel. It is the property ofthe Duke of Rutland, who, with the Duke of Devonshire, share between them a large proportion of this and the neighbouring localities.

Their respective insignia, the peacock and the snake, are visible on all sides. Over the door of our hotel was the "peacock;" and underneath was the date, as I suppose, when the house was erected, viz. 1652. We found the inn very comfortable, and it may be worth the observation of travellers, that it stands within a few miles of two English country houses, one of which as an ancient, and the other as a modern edifice — one representing country life and magnificence in old time, and the other repre senting the same in these present times, are, HADD0N HALL. perhaps, the most distinguished of any which our land contains. I refer to Haddon Hall and Chats worth — the former one mile, the latter three miles distant. Our journey to-day had been most interesting, through a fine and populous country, adorned with churches, schools, cottages and other build ings erected with much taste, and maintained with evident care and liberality.

The stone of the country is excellent, and harmonizes well in colour with the scenes of nature around. July 26. To Manchester. — Having a long journey before us, and intending to visit Haddon Hall on the way, we set off at six this morning, cheered by a clear warm atmosphere and bright sun. • A mile's progress brought us to the gate leading to the old baronial mansion of the Ver nons and the Manners partially seen among the trees on the gentle ascent to our right, and just so much open to view, as suits the retired character of the place. Haddon Hall is, per haps, the most interesting and best preserved illustration of ancient domestic life, among the higher circle of Englishmen, to be found in Great Britain. And all here is in perfect keeping : for while in no part of the building any dilapida tion is to be seen, on the other hand, in no part HADDON HALL. whatsoever, is there any decoration of modern date.

As might naturally be expected, there is not much furniture anywhere. Yet still there is some throughout ; and to speak with accuracy, all the fixtures remain. From this furniture and fixtures — even had we no records of domestic life at the period when Haddon Hall was a stirring scene of family society, hospitality, and charity — much might be learned concerning the manners, habits, and life of those days. There was something very pleasant to us in visiting the place at the fresh, quiet, hour which we chose. There was no parade of exhibition — no high-dressed housekeeper, or pompous guides, unus et alter, in succession, to give their cold, drilled lesson. On our driving up, a very intelligent girl came out of an adjoining cottage, and no other human being was visible in the place, excepting her and ourselves, during the whole survey which we made.

And this was done at leisure, and with some accuracy. I can recal only a portion of the many curious articles and objects here presented to our view, and carrying us back two or three centuries. Entering the court-yard we first saw the porter's lodge, and the massive old wooden bed in which he slept. We then HADDON HALL. 19 went into the chaplain's room* and study, in which there are now placed a gun, a pair of boots, a chapel-bell, a leathern doublet, a hunter's horn, pewter dishes, &c, all of ancient date and form. The hall resembles that of a small college, with a high table across, and long tables at right angles, stretched from one end of the room to the other. Within the outer hall there is another dining-room, with oriel window and carved chimney-piece, over which is inscribed : Dreade GOD and honor the Kyng.

Here there is a large copper wine-cooler ; and on one of the panels are carved portraits of Henry VII., and his Queen, extremely well executed in wood. We then successively viewed the drawing room with its oriel windows, tapestried walls, and old embroidered ottomans, and the dress ing-room and the bed-room of the Earl. The only mode of access by which the ladies' maids could reach their mistress was by the open court, and a flight of unprotected stone steps leading to her dressing-room. Among the other apartments are a handsome gallery, a state-bed-room with an ancient bed, * This was the only apartment into which any object has been transferred from their appropriate position. HADDON HALL. which was sent to Belvoir Castle for the use of George IV., when Regent ; and guard-rooms in the tower.

But perhaps there is, after all, nothing more curious in the whole place than the arrangements of the kitchen and adjoining offices. So accurately are they maintained in their former con dition that they might be used for dinners and company at tbis very moment — that is supposing such cooks, as then dressed dinners, and such guests as then consumed them, could again be assembled within Haddon Hall. In the kitchen are the old tables, benches, &c. still hard, strong, massive, and serviceable, with the chopping-block, the dressers, and a salt-box of immense magnitude. Within the kitchen is a bakery and a larder. Farther on is the butchery or slaughter-house, with all its painful accompaniments. Seeing no entrance, except that by which we had entered, I asked whether the cattle used to come in to be killed through the kitchen.

" Yes, Sir, that was the only way." In the buttery, the door has a small hole, which served as the means for distributing food to the poor claimants of the neighbourhood. Altogether Haddon Hall interested us extremely. I have not spoken of the building itself, nor of the surrounding scenes, because in both these ASHF0RD, points this old hall has other rivals ; but I believe that it has none as to the abundance of articles remaining in it, which were here literally used in ancient domestic life, and for the exactitude of information with which it supplies the intelli gent observer, who may wish to trace out the in-door history of former generations in our land. In France, the Castle of Chenonceaux, near Tours, and of Azay-le-Rideau near Chinon, are kept up in some measure with the same view ; but in both those residences habitation has, in a certain degree, necessitated an introduction of modern arrangements.