Egypt and the Holy Land, in 1842, with sketches of Greece, Constantinople, and the Levant

Front matter

EGYPT AND THE HOLY LAND VOL I EGYPT AND THE HOLY LAND IN 1842, WITH SKETCHES OF GREECE, CONSTANTINOPLE, AND THE LEVANT. BY W. DREW STENT, B.A. OF WADHAM COLLEGE, OXFORD. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, in ©sttnarp to *%t jWajestp. 1843. LONDON: PRINTED BV SCHULZE AND CO., 13, POLAND STREET. DEDICATION. TO THE KINDEST AND MOST EXCELLENT OF PARENTS, AND TO A BROTHER WHOSE NEVER- FAILING ATTENTION SO GREATLY CONTRIBUTED TO ENHANCE THE PLEASURES OF MY TOUR, THE FOLLOWING PAGES ARE DEDICATED, WITH EVERY SENTIMENT OF DEEPEST GRATITUDE, AND JUSTLY-MERITED HEARTFELT AFFECTION.

Preface

Though numerous publications have issued from the press, referring to the countries treated of in the following work, yet the interest excited by the present con dition and prospects of those distant climes is so general in our own land, not only from the manner in which Britain has of late years intermingled in their political affairs, but from so great a probability ex isting that before long she may be again perhaps still more deeply involved in them, that on this account the remarks now offered to the public, made on the spot from recent personal observation, may be deemed not altogether unworthy of interest and attention. In addition to the reflections on the moral, political and social state of the Levant, together with a cursory glance at the antiquities and other objects most de-

PREFACE.

. serving of notice, particular care has been taken as regards those points so necessary to all travellers, which include the requisites and best seasons for visiting the different countries referred to, the methods of tra velling, the accommodation, the prices charged, the needful expenses, roads, passports, douanes and other general information ; so that it is hoped these pages may be found useful to those about to visit the climes of the East, as well as to afford some amusement and information to those who may remain in their own land. LONDON, MAY, 1843. CONTENTS TO THE FIRST VOLUME.

Introduction

. Requisites for travelling in the East — Wardrobe — Letters of introduction — Passports — Best method of taking money — Books required — Fire-arms — Writing materials — Medicine — Additional necessaries for a lengthened tour — Most favourable seasons for visiting Eastern countries — Different routes from England — Comforts not to be expected by the traveller in Greece — Best method of engaging a servant — Value of Greek coins . . , . . 1 — 13

Chapter I

Leave Malta for Zante — Arrival at Patras, curious reception there — Charges of Hotels — Bargaining in Greece — Position and appearance of Patras — Missilonghi — X CONTENTS. Byron — Em-irons of Patras — Culture and manage ment of the currant — Mr. Robinson, our vice-consul — Embark for Corinth — The voyage — Incidents — Superstition of the Sailors — Glorious scenery of the Gulf of Lepanto — Parnassus — View of Corinth — Inn — Ancient column — Description of a prospeci from the Acrocorinthus — Favourable position for commerce — Routes from Corinth to Athens and Argos — Specimen of natural Corinthian brass in making arrangements for Napoh — Our equipment — Departure for Argos — Wretched roads — Scenery and produce of the district — Plum of Argos— Mycenæ, its citadel — Gate of Lyons and tomb of Agamemnon — Argos, its Acropolis and theatre — Stupendous walls of Tiryn — Napoli di Romana. its situation, edifices, and street — Hotel Capo dTstria — Aspect and customs of the natives — Way to Sparta and its valley . . . 14 — 11

Chapter II

Departure for Epidaurus — Scenery — Grove of Esculapius — Arrival at Epidaurus — Wretched accommodation — Voyage to Agilia — Description of the tower and Island — Adventure there — Magnificent Temple of Jupiter, and interesting view from it — Tomb of Themistocles — Piræus — Macadamized road to Athens Arrival at Athens ..... 42 CONTENTS. XI

Chapter III

Hotels, exhorbitant charges — Plain of Attica, its aspect, boundaries, and general features — Suggestions caused by the objects witnessed from the Acropolis- — Temples on the Citadel — The Propylon — Temple of Victory — Modern Tower- — Parthenon — Erectheus and Minerva Pohas — Theatres of Herodes, Atticus and Bacchus — Excavated caverns — Fount of Clepsydra — Areopagus — The Museum and its monument — The Pnyx, as it appears at present — Long walls — Prison of Socrates — Temple of Theseus— Statue of Adrian — Gate of the Agora — Temple of the Winds — Lantern of Demosthenes — Gate of Adrian — Temple of Jupiter Olympus — Stadium- — Reflections on the state of the antiquities of Greece ..... 53 — 72

Chapter IV

Aspect of modern Athens ; its streets, houses, churches, market, shops, restaurants, cafes — New edifices in, or near the town, the Theatre, University, Protestant church and palace — Enghsh speculators — Motley crowds — Albanian costumes — Martial ah* — Miss Botzaris— Maid of Athens — Hospitality of Sir E. Lyons — Rev. Mr. Lewes — Excursion to Pentehcus, its quarries and extensive prospect from the summit — Marathon — Thermopylæ — Phy læ — Eleuxis — Salamis 73 — CONTENTS.

Chapter V

Position, character and authority of the King — Council of state — Subordinate officers of district — Liberal measures — The revenue not apphed to improve the country which is still in a wretched, ruinous condition ; how expended — Sources of income — System necessary to govern — Extent of the kingdom — Army and navy — Increase of commerce — Agriculture, sad condition and capability of the soil, its produce, government claims, system of farming, implements, thrashing the grain, cattle price of land — Inducements for emigrating to Greece — Price of provisions — Game — Butter how made — Honey of Hymettus — Bad oil and wine — Food of the lower classes — Natural products — Manufactures — Population — Chmate — National character — Language — Edu cation, its state and advancement — Mr. Hill's admirable schools — Religion, its doctrines and general ordinance — Clergy, how supported — Poverty and ceremony of the church — Missionaries. . 89 — 116

Chapter VI

Embark for Alexandria — Expense of the passage — Syria, the rendezvous of the packets — Its Lazaretto, and that at Malta — Appearance of the Town and Island — General features of the Isles in the Levant — CONTENTS. XIII Those passed on our voyp^e — Storm — Partial breezes in the Mediterranean — Cuisine — Present system of Steam Navigation prejudicial to Great Britain — First view of Egypt and Alexandria — The two harbours — Busy aspect of the chief Port : the edifices around it — Reflections on the past and present state of Egypt — Striking scene on landing — Hotels — Money — Alexandria ; its position, population, streets, houses, and fortifications — Military bearing and equipments — Ruins of the Ancient City — Pompey's pillar — Mahometan cemetery — Miserable huts and garments of the emancipated slaves — Catacombs — Cleopatra's needles — Protestant chapel — Route to Rosetta — Damietta — Numberless requisites for the Desert — Conditions of hiring a servant — Arrangements and expense of the voyage to Cairo — Easiest method of going thither ..... 117 — 135

Chapter VII

Mahmoudie canal, its advantages — Atfe — Boats for our voyage, their accommodation, vermin, sails and crew — Food, its sorts and cheapness — Eggs — Pleasures and hazards of a voyage on the Nile — Sporting — Variety of birds and different animals — The Nile — Appearance of the country — Villages — Soil — Rise of the Nile — Foundation and commentary on Scripture — Dews— Crops, their varieties, rapidity of growth — Their harvests produced annually from CONTENTS. XIV the same land — Relative condition of crops the same as during the plague of hail — Machines for irrigation — Extreme wretchedness of the Arab huts — Aspect and dress of their inhabitants — Food — Occu pation of the females and care used in concealing theh features — First ghmpse of the Pyramids — Boulac — Arrival at Cairo .... 136 — 158

Chapter VIII

Hotels — Hiring unfurnished lodgings — Cairo, its position, population, imposing air at a distance, real condition — Narrow streets — Full description of the houses — Astonishment excited by the pecuharities of dresses and customs — Procession of a harem — Bazaar — Slave market resembling a mart for cattle — Price of the slaves according to ages and country — The citadels, its buildings — Pubhc baths — Mosques — Tombs of the Caliphs — Museum of antiquities — Difficulty of procuring them — Petrified forest 159—172

Chapter IX

Preparations for reaching Sacchara — Vast cemetery Mausoleum of Mahomet Ali— Supposed insult to the Koran revenged — Site of Memphis — Encampment for the night — Arab guard — Pilfering character ofthe natives — Pyramids of Sacchara — Scarabæus — Vast Necropolis of Memphis, its desolation — Catacombs for CONTENTS. XV mummies — Excavated shrine — Ibis' pits — Pyramids of Djiza, description of that of Cheops, adventure in it with the guides — Sphynx — Excavated chambers — Artificial process of hatching chickens — Isle of Rhoda, its garden — Nilometer — Spot where Moses was found — The Khalis — Pacha's summer palace on the Nile, his stables — Season too far advanced for visiting Upper Egypt — Number of English at Cairo — Great advantages of this route to India — Additional facilities suggested .... 173 — 193

Chapter X

Mahomet Ah ; his history, character — Laws respecting marriage, murder and other crimes ; their punishments — Judges — Witnesses — Bribery — Organization of Government — Police — Sources of Revenue most unjust and extortionate— Military system, incidents connected with it ; pay of Soldiers drilled under the Pacha— Navy 194—211

Chapter XI

State of Agriculture — Relative produce of different crops — Implements — Cattle — Immense Territory owned by the Pacha, how acquired and tilled — Trees and Fruits — Manufactures estabhshed by the Viceroy — Wretched destitute condition of the Natives — Chmate— Diseases — Language. . . 212 — CONTENTS.

Chapter XII

Manners and Customs — Marriage ceremonies, number of wives, harems — Ladies smoking — Funeral rites — Tombs — Modes of salutation — The pipe and tobacco — Dancing girls — Jugglers — Writing materials — Meals, of what composed and how taken — Scripture reference — Management of Bees — Beverages — Dress of the higher classes — Rehgion, its rites and doctrines — Dervishes — Genh — Superstitions — Education — Missionary and other schools — Mahometan converts at the Protestant chapel — The Copts . 227 — 256

Chapter XIII

The Two Routes by the Desert from Cairo to Palestine — Their comparative advantages — Firman when required — Arrangement for Camels, how to be made ; number required, price, and particulars of them — National portraits — A Yankee — Start from Cairo — Slowness and fatigue of travelling on Camels — Hehopohs — Rameses — Land of Goshen — Plunderers at Bilbeis — Preparations for a Fight — Khans . 257 — EGYPT, AND THE HOLY LAND.

INTRODUCTION.

. Requisites for travelling in the East — Wardrobe — Letters of introduction — Passports — Best method of taking money — Books required — Fire-arms — Writing materials — Medecine — Additional necessaries for a lengthened tour — Most favourable seasons for visiting Eastern countries — Different routes from England — Comforts not to be expected by the traveUer in Greece — Best method of engaging a servant — Value of Greek coins. As there are several requisites for a journey in the East, which can be procured in England far better than in other coun tries, it is proper briefly to enumerate here what articles are chiefly required. In the VOL. I. B REQUISITES FOR TRAVELLING. first place as to clothes, which should be as strong as possible, including woollen as well as cloth garments, the coldness of the morning being often succeeded by exces sive mid-day heat; the whole wardrobe should be contained in a moderate-sized leathern portmanteau provided with a stout waterproof cover, and a carpet-bag with the same ; for where roads are so bad that every thing is carried on the backs of mules or small horses, much baggage will occa sion trouble and, (if too weighty) inconve nience and delay ; a thick great-coat is de sirable, and a mackintosh should be taken by all means from England.

Letters of introduction will be found ex tremely useful, particularly to persons in official situations and to missionaries ; many of the latter are in correspondence with Mr. Slintz, an excellent man, who pre sides over the missionary establishment at Malta. A passport, though not so imperiously necessary as in the central states of Europe, must on no account be omitted, as it is REQUISITES FOR TRAVELLING. demanded in the Ionian islands, and on first landing in Greece, when another pass is given for that country ; in Turkey this travelling licence is not required, but it is advisable to procure from our ambassador at Constantinople, or at least from a con sul, a declaration officially signed, stating that you are a British subject, as this may save interruption ; for those who intend to undertake a tour in the more remote parts of the empire, a firman or first class passport, granted only by the Sultan and af fording great protection, should most certainly be obtained.

As regards money, the circular notes of Coutts or Herries, for twenty pounds each, accompanied with a letter of indication, are decidedly the most convenient ; the letter is addressed to the principal bankers throughout the world, and should always be shewn when a note is presented to be cashed, by this means in case of losing a note, forgery may be discovered ; in addi tion to this there is no deduction per cent age, nor delay in giving cash. b2 BOOKS. FIRE-ARMS. Of books, a small dictionary and gram mar of French and Italian must be pro vided, also Murray's Hand-book for the East, which includes Greece, the Archi pelago, Asia Minor, Constantinople, the Bosphorus and navigation of the Danube ; Childe Harold and the Giaour, if not the whole works of Byron, with a few standard works on the history and antiquities of the different countries, as Wordsworth's Greece, Herodotus, Wilkinson and Cham pollion, on the ancient, and Lane's most accurate work on the modern Egyptians ; Robinson's Biblical Researches in Palestine is excellent, but ponderous, Stevens being far more convenient, though perhaps less full of interesting detail ; for Constanti nople and its customs, take Miss Pardoe's City of the Sultan, and last, though not least, on no account forget my book, as a certain literary M.D. of the great metro polis sagely remarked to me, on consult ing him, before drinking the waters of Ger many ; and this, be it remembered, courteous reader, is my only chance of a fee !

WRITING MATERIALS. 5 Fire-arms must by all means be pro vided, not only pistols, but a double barrelled gun, in a well-furnished case ; this will afford much amusement and pro tection. Note-books with a plentiful supply of pens, ink and paper carried in a small leathern writing-desk having a patent lock will be often in request, also a small mede cine-chest well-stored with remedies against colds, fevers, agues and opthalmia. Thus armed, the traveller may venture to bid adieu to his native shores, as with such a stock in trade, he can reach Alexandria in comfort. Should, however, a lengthened tour in Greece be previously contemplated, a small mattress and blanket, with a canteen con taining cups, plates, knives, forks, cook ing utensils, and the usual articles, must be provided in addition ; besides a supply of rice, maccaroni, dried hams, and a small quantity of good spirits, all of which are furnished at Malta or Corfu.

Vermin swarm so universally in the East, WARDROBE. and are moreover so excessively venomous, that if the wearied traveller calculates on being even occasionally visited by the charms of soothing Morpheus, he will pre pare a musquito net, and an ample bag effectually closed at the bottom and end of the sleeves, being open only at the neck, round which it must be drawn within an ace of suffocation. A capote costs but little and is extremely useful, it is easily procurable in the Ionian isles, Patras, or Athens, and being lined with wool or goat's hair, affords effectual protection against wet and cold. To visit the countries of the East in their most favorable seasons is a point of the ut most importance, since, in consequence of the variations of climate, some seasons are extremely fatiguing, while others are highly prejudicial to health.

Though the climate of Greece varies so greatly in different lo calities, that, while it is winter among the more northern and elevated districts, the heat in the lower parts will be often ex cessive ; yet on the whole, January and the SEASONS FOR VISITING THE EAST. two or three subsequent months will be found most agreeable to those who are unable to endure extreme warmth ; so se rene is the usual temperature and climate of Athens, that Byron considered it as the most delightful in the world. Egypt should be first visited in November, northerly winds constantly prevailing from that time till February, which are so needful for a voyage up the Nile, if a visit to Thebes or the Cataracts be intended ; the waters too are at this period so high, that there is no danger of the navigation being im peded.

During summer the temperature is in supportable ; the hot wind blowing usually for fifty days in the months of April and May proves most baneful to the health. Palestine is oppressive and unhealthy in the more advanced season, while in February and March the rains are often severe ; the latter month and April may, however, be deemed the most favourable for this country. Should, therefore, a visit to all the above named lands be contem- TRAVELLING ROUTES. plated in the same year, Greece must be taken in the autumn en route to Egypt, or in the spring on returning from Syria, either from Beirout by way of Smyrna, whence steamers often run to Syria and the Piræus, or after the somewhat longer, but far more interesting detour has been made to Constantinople. The course of the route from England will depend on the time and inclination of the traveller, since one can either proceed the first of every month direct to Malta, in fifteen days, byway of Gibraltar; or adopt a course which saves much sea, and may be performed in a somewhat shorter period, by crossing France to Marseilles, and thence embarking in one of the French steamers that run thrice every month to Malta.

This line stops a few hours at Genoa, Le ghorn, Civita Vecchia, the port of Rome, and Naples, giving an opportunity of stay ing at any of those places. There is a third method by embarking in an Austrian packet, at Trieste, for the Ionian Isles and Patras ; TRAVELLING ROUTES. to these may be added a fourth route through Germany to the Danube, at Ratis bon or Vienna, and proceeding down that noble stream to the Black Sea and Constan tinople ; this plan is in every way preferable to a tedious voyage of fourteen or fifteen days against the current from the City of the Sultan to the Austrian capital. The navigation of the Mediterranean is well arranged, Malta being the chief rendezvous of both English and French steamers, whence the latter sail thrice every month to Syria in three days, from which island other boats branch off to the Piræus, Smyrna, Constantinople, and Alexandria ; the vessels of our Oriental Company sail about the middle of every month direct to Alexandria.

The accommodation of both lines is good, the French being less expensive ; in an English steamer from Malta to Zante, I was charged more than eight pounds for only two days, though, had I proceeded to Corfu, the cost would not have been greater. This line to the Ionian Isles is not at preb3 GREEK SERVANTS. sent, I am informed, on a very regular system. As regards the comforts and conveniences of the classic land, save in the few scattered towns, but little more will be found in Greece as a kingdom than when it formed only a province of the Turkish empire. Let not, then, the hints in the earlier part ofthe chapter be deemed unworthy of attention; neither let due diligence and inquiry be omitted in engaging that lion's provider (O ! that it need not be added, and filcher too) a wellexperienced servant, who can give satisfactory proof of his qualifications as cook and interpreter, besides the best possible testimony of his integrity ; though how muchsoever the novice may flatter himself that he has indeed found that noblest work of God — an honest man — he will, alas ! too soon discover that bad indeed is the best.

The Maltese are the most esteemed, and usually engaged to accompany parties in the Levant ; but they are not superior to the GREEK SERVANTS. native Greeks, some of whom will rest satisfied with cheating their employers themselves, without allowing others to do the same. Andrea, a native of Patras, and known to Mr. Robinson, our vice-consul there, is well qualified for his business as being generally active and diligent, possessing much kind feeling, with desire and ability to please ; such a man will undertake to do every thing for three or four persons, but should never be allowed to bargain when it can possibly be avoided. He requires a Spanish dollar per day, besides the expenses of his journey home from the place where he may be discharged. A clear agreement must, therefore, be made in writing as to the sum paid for back-fare, provided no other master can be met with for him ; the party hiring should avoid too long an engagement by way of guarantee for good conduct ; all bills, too, must be discharged with the least possible delay, if the traveller have the slightest regard for his pocket, so universal is the law for vie- TRAVELLING IN THE EAST. timising, so prevalent the idea that the purse of an Englishman can have no end, but rather, like the hydra's head, increases from each assault made upon it.

The coins of Greece in common use are the lepta, which is equal to one-hundredth part of a drachma, the ten lepta piece, the drachma, which is rather more than eight pence halfpenny ; the new Greek dollar, equivalent to five drachmas, and the Spanish dollar, equal to six drachmas. In concluding this introductory chap ter one other requisite, far more important than those before mentioned, ought not, on any account, to be forgotten : — this is a calm frame of mind, prepared to encounter undismayed inconvenien ces of various descriptions, so as even to be enabled to say and feel with Jacob Faithful, " take it coolly." This qualifica tion, with a ready conformity to the customs and habits of the people amongst whom one's lot is cast, is so imperiously necessary to common comfort, that unless the mind be resolved on such a course, far TRAVELLING IN THE EAST. wiser would it be to remain for ever in dear happy England, contented to hear from others the recitals of those " moving acci dents by flood and field," than to undergo those deprivations which would otherwise be ill supported. DEPARTURE FOR ZANTE.

Chapter I

Leave Malta for Zante — Arrival at Patras, curious reception there — Charges of Hotels — Bargaining in Greece — Position and appearance of Patras — Missilonghi — Byron — Environs of Patras — Culture and management of the currant — Mr. Robinson, our vice-consul — Embark for Corinth — The voyage — Incidents — Superstition of the Sailors — Glorious scenery of the Gulf of Lepanto — Parnassus — View of Corinth — Inn — Ancient column — Description of a prospect from the Acrocorinthus — Favourable position for commerce — Routes from Corinth to Athens and Argos — Specimen of natural Corinthian brass in making arrangements for Napoli — Our equipment — Departure for Argos — Wretched roads — Scenery and produce of the district — Plum of Argos — Mycenæ, its citadel — Gate of Lyons and tomb of Agamemnon — Argos, its Acropolis and theatre — Stupendous walls of Tiryn — Napoli di Romana, its situation, edifices, and street — Hotel Capo d'lstria — Aspect and customs of the natives — Way to Sparta and its valley.

Early in the past year, accompanied by my brother and a small party in search of ARRIVAL AT PATRAS. either health or amusement, I sailed from Malta to Zante, where having remained a few days to visit its Pitch Wells and abun dant groves of orange and lemon, as well as to feast on its well-fattened turkeys, its myriads of woodcocks, and witness the havoc of its almost unceasing earth quakes, we subsequently coasted along within full view of the fine bold rugged outline of the Morea to Patras, at whicli town we first set foot on the classic shores of Greece ; and truly our treatment was then most ungrateful towards those who had spent so many months and toilsome years in poring over the learned tomes of the at least well-thumbed, if not well-di gested lore, of this " land of lost gods and god-like men."

Unfortunately for us all, the town was so deeply occupied in the carousals attending the celebration of a grand festival, that, on landing, no officer could be discovered to examine the baggage or passports, while we meantime were driven into a highly-railed pen, where a man presided over us, who GREEK HOTELS. brandished a huge staff whenever any one attempted to move, and uttered ireful me naces ; and there we stood like cattle to be disposed of to the highest bidder, idlers collecting from every quarter to stare out their amazement at the new importation, till at length, that most dignified of all officials, the petty officer of a petty town, condescended to pay his visit of inspection that freed us from our somewhat ludi crous, though by no means comfortable position. This ceremony concluded, we proceeded to jostle our way through the motley group of men, women, and children, of fierce looking Albanians, crafty Greeks, and plun dering Italians, to an hotel.

Several houses, dignified with that appellation, were recom mended ; but that called the Grand Britannia is really comfortable ; though here, as in every other part of the country, we were compelled to bargain for rooms and meals ; and after a long contention with mine host, agreed to pay a sum equivalent to two shillings each for breakfast, including eggs and PATRAS. meat ; three shillings for dinner, and two shillings a bed, which was far less than would have been charged, had a previous agree ment not been made. The position of Patras, at the southern entrance of the Gulf of Lepanto, is peculi arly favourable for commerce ; it is built along the shore and on the lower slope of a rather elevated hill crowned by the massive walls of a ruined fort. The best streets are as yet unpaved, though straight and spaci ous ; some are only marked out, but the houses though wretched, and often unfi nished within-side, present a cheerful ap pearance from their recent construction, the town having been rebuilt since Otho came to the throne.

From its situation and the frequent communication of steamers that call here from Malta and Trieste, it will fast improve in importance. Already it contains a long row of shops amply fur nished with various commodities. This place was of much importance in the palmy days of Greece, and was subsequently colonized by Augustus ; but the CULTIVATION OF THE CURRANT. only vestiges of bygone glory are the scanty ruins of an aqueduct and of the walls of its Acropolis. The shores of the gulf extending far on either side of the town are rocky and precipitous, but the point of the oppo site coast, on the northern entrance of the gulf, extends for some miles in a perfectly marshy flat, on which stands, or rather did stand previously to the revolution, the town of Missilonghi ; for at that pe riod of rapine it was completely demo lished, and it presents to this day a sad spectacle of ruin.

Much interest, however, attaches to it, not only for the brave though vain resistance, worthy of the heroic ages, made by its garrison under the famed Marco Bozzaris against the overwhelming forces of Egypt and Turkey, but still more from the fact that our own immortal poet here bade adieu to this world. Scarcely a vestige of that house remains wherein he breathed away his life ; but while Poesy can survive, Byron can never die. Before quitting Patras, it must be ob served, that the plain and mountain slopes TRADE AT PATRAS. around it are covered with plantations of the vine ; this locality being the most fa vourable in all the kingdom for the produc tion of the small currants, which form the chief article of exportation. They are so named from Corinth in the neighbourhood of which they once principally grew ; the vines much resemble our common currant bush, and are always kept low ; the culti vation requires much attention, neither will they grow, except along the north-western shores of the Morea and in the Ionian Is lands ; even when planted only a short dis tance inland, the crop is found to fail.