A Steam Voyage to Constantinople, by the Rhine and the Danube, in 1840-1841, and to Portugal, Spain, &c, in 1839. ... To which is annexed, the author's correspondence with Prince Metternich, etc

Front matter

JOURNAL OF A TOUR TO CONSTANTINOPLE. VOL. I. Henry CoTburn , Fiiblislii A STEAM VOYAGE TO CONSTANTINOPLE, BY THE RHINE AND THE DANUBE, IN 1840-41, AND TO PORTUGAL, SPAIN, &c, IN 1839. BY C. W. VANE, MARQUESS OF LONDONDERRY, G.C.B., &c TO WHICH IS ANNEXED, THE AUTHOr's CORRESPONDENCE WITH PRINCE METTERNICH, LORDS PONSONBY, PALMERSTON, &c. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER, GREAT MARLBOKOrUII STREET. 1842. LONDON : V. SHOBERT., JUN., 51, RUPERT STIiEET, HAYMARKET, PRINTER TO H.P.. H. PRINCE ALBERT. TO HER UNTO WHOM I OWE MORE THAN I CAN REPAY, ALTHOUGH NOT MORE THAN I FEEL; TO THE PARTNER OF MY JOYS, MY SORROWS, AND MY FATE, I DEDICATE THESE PAGES. V. L. CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

Chapter I

Steam Voyage from the Tower Stairs to Holland — The Thames — Arrival at Rotterdam — Picturesque Scene — Mr. Murray's Hand-Books — Mutual Detestation of Holland and Belgium — Professional Men at Rotterdam — Increase of this City in wealth — Antwerp — Fete for the celebration of the second century of Rubens : a strange ceremony — Belgian Soldiers — Leopold's Neutrality — His Policy — Brussels — English Resi dents — A Diner en Gourmand — Railroad to Liege — Inferiority of its structure and arrangements to those of a similar nature in England — Railroad Carriages — Belgian Manners — A curious Scene — Characters — Aix-la-Chapelle — Alterations and im provements here since the Writer's visit when Ambassador at the Court of Vienna in 1815 — Baths — The country from Liege to Cologne — Cologne Cathedral — Present prosperity and favourable prospects of Cologne . . . . .1

Chapter II

Steam-Boats on the Rhine — Banks of the Rhine from Rot terdam to Cologne — Johannisberg, the Estate and Vintage, so VI CONTENTS. called, belonging to Prince Metternich — Ehrenbreitstein — Summer Palace of the Duke de Nassau — Mayence — Singular Spectacle — New Railroad — Wisbaden — Its architectural supe riority over Tonbridge, Worthing, and Brighton — Gambling in the Assembly-Room — The Mineral Springs — Bieberach — Imperial Presents — Russian Alliances — Francfort, and its Hotels — Inferiority of the Inns of Germany to those of Hol land and Belgium — Splendid Episcopal Palace at Wurzbourg — Journey to Nuremburg — Proposed Canal to connect the commerce of the Danube, the Mayne, and the Rhine — The King of Bavaria refuses to give the writer an audience, because he could not present himself in uniform — Corre spondence with the author and the Aid-de-Camp de Ser- 21 vice

Chapter III

Ratisbon — Magnificent efforts of the King of Bavaria to encourage the Arts in his Dominions — Temple of Wahlhallen ; its structure and purposes — Steam Voyage from Ratisbon to Vienna — Romantic Scenery of the Danube — Arrival at Vienna — Lodgings — Removal to the Palace of Prince Esterhazy at Marienkiilf — Fauxbourgs — Architectural Improvements in the Austrian Capital — Singular fulfilment of a suggestion from Lady Mary Wortley Montagu — Fashionable Watering Places — Our Ambassador at Vienna — Courteous reception from Count Tatischeft, Count Woronzow, and Prince Metternich — Johan nisberg at the Prince's table — Present appearance of Prince Metternich — His Family — The change which twenty years have produced in the gay world of Vienna — Lady Montagu's opi- CONTENTS. VII nion of the Austrian Ladies no longer true — Vienna more moral than London and Paris . . . . .43

Chapter IV

Houses of Reception at Vienna — Theatres — Management of the Austrian Finances — Dislike of Change — Kollowrath and Metternich — General Fiquelmont, Prince Esterhazy, and the most distinguished Austrian Diplomatists — The Austrian Army — General Baron Croissard : his military suggestions — Account of the Battle of Culm, from Croissard's History — His Description of the Etat Major of the Peninsular Army — A Dinner at Prince Esterhazy's villa at Pottendorf — The Prince's Palaces — A Visit to the Castle of Falkenstein — Its singular position — Expedition to Esterhazy — The Prince's Stud — Count Etienne Zecheny — Prince Esterhazy's magnificent Man sion at Eisenstadt — Splendid Conservatory — The Prototype of that lately erected at Chatsworth . . . .63

Chapter V

The Emperor of Austria honours the author with an audi ence — His Imperial Majesty crowned King of Hungary when Crown Prince — The Official Summons — Conference with Prince Metternich — His Opinions on various subjects, the ill judged attempts of France and England to foster unintelligible Reforms — Unprepared State of Austria for a General War — The Chevalier von Genz, the Diplomatist : his extraordinary passion for Fanny Ellsler— A Lover at Fourscore — Unfortunate result of his attachment — An interesting Collection of Por traits forming by the Princess Metternich — Her boudoir — Supe- CONTENTS. VIII riority of the boudoirs of Petersburg and Vienna over those of London — Despondency arising from an approaching departure from attached friends, with whom there is no probability of our again meeting — Prince Metternich's reply to the author's farewell letter :....... 87

Chapter VI

A Family Separation — Count Etienne Zecheny and the Austrian Steam Navigation Company — Embark on Board the Galatea Steamer — Her Accommodations — Banks of the Danube— Pesth — Suspension Bridge — Club House — The Zrynii and her Passengers — Emir Pacha — Dr. Duroni, "and Colonel Philippoville — Unpleasant Voyage — The Station at Drenkova — Continuation of the Voyage in Open Boats — Romantic Scenery — Orsova — Fourth Embarkation in Wallachian Boats — Passage of the Rapids between Orsova and Skela Gladova — Embark on board the Pannonia — Cupidity of the Agents — Intolerable annoyances — Stranded on a Sand-bank again — Sufferings of the Passengers from the Over-crowded state of the boat, and Inadequate Accommodation . . . 107

Chapter VII

Arrival at Ghirges— Austrian Steamers— Mr. Slade's Poli tical Opinions — Austrian Policy and Russian Aggrandisement — The Prussian Commercial League— Navigation of the Da nube — Whig Policy — Austrian Alliance with Russia — Russian Commerce— State of Moldavia, Wallachia, and Servia, under Russian Protection — Efforts of Austria to find new Markets for Extending her Commerce — Proposed Canal to Kustendji— CONTENTS. IX Voyage Continued — Project to go by Land to Constantinople obliged to be Abandoned — Description of Galatz — Free Ports — Hospitable Reception at Galatz — Account of Gipsies — Qua rantine — Letter from the Prince of Moldavia — The Russians at Sulina — Calm Passage through the Black Sea — Description of the Entrance into the Bosphorus — Line of Coast — Suburban View — Constantinople ...... 129

Chapter VIII

Night Landing at Pera— Situation of Pera and Galata — View of Constantinople from the Golden Horn — Difficulties in the way of Communication — Appearance in the Streets of a Pacha, or Great man — Immense and varied Population — Mas culine Characteristics in both Sexes — The Streets of Constantinople — Traffic in Eatables — General Cemetery of the Turks — Dogs — Mosques — Minarets — The Turkish Ladies — Scene at the Bajazet Colonnade at the Conclusion of the Ramazan — The Grand Bazaars — Their various Shops and Dealers — The Systematic Cheating to which Europeans are there Subjected — The Seraglio — Winter and Summer Palaces of the Sultan — Correspondence relating to the Conduct of our Ambassador at Constantinople, to the Author . . . .163

Chapter IX

Kindness of the Austrian Ambassador — His great influence — Reception by Reschid Pacha — Conference with the Pacha, and Turkish Entertainment — Policy of Turkey in her Alliances — A Visit to the Seraskier — His Palace and Household — Inspection, under the guidance of the Seraskier, of his military CONTENTS. X Council and Chancellerie — Promotion— Comparative Import ance of the Sultan's principal Ministers — Turkish Compliments — General Remarks on the Military System in Turkey — Youth ful Appearance of the Troops — State of the Army — Irregular Cavalry of the Koords and other Asiatic Races — Turkish, Russian, Persian, Mameluke, Mahratta, and French Cavalry — Imperfections of an Irregular Force — Turkish Sailors . 225

Chapter X

Introduction to the Grand Vizier — Appearance and Conduct of Reschid Pacha — Admiral Walker and the War in Syria — State of public opinion in Constantinople after the Capture of St. Jean d'Acre — Ali Pacha — Conduct of the Allies towards Turkey — Uufounded Jealousy of Russia — Mr. Slade's Work — Proposal for fortifying Constantinople — Rejoicings and illu minations in the Turkish Capital — Egyptian Regiments — Appearance of Turkish Ladies in Public Promenades — Equi page of the Sultana — Arabas — A Barber's Shop — Beauty of the Turkish Women — Their use of Cosmetics — Refreshment Shops in the Seraskier Platz — A Visit to the Seraskier's Stables — His Stud — Negociations for the Purchase of a Horse — Arrangements in the Harems of the Principal Pachas . 245

Chapter XI

Expeditions to the neighbourhood of Constantinople — De scription of the author's visit from Pera to the Winter Palace — Furniture of the Royal Apartments — Appearance of Abdul Mehjid during a private audience — Courtesy of Reschid Pacha Speech of the author to the Sultan — Account by Lady Lon- CONTENTS. XI donderry of her audience with Abdul Mejdid — Her journey to the palace, accompanied by the Lady of Admiral Walker — Frank Ladies at Court — Inspection of the Apartments — Disco very of a trap door affording a view of the sea rolling beneath — Interview with the Sultan — The conversation that passed between his Majesty and Lady Londonderry during her audience — Departure from the Palace — Constantinople and its disagremens ........ 267

Chapter XII

The Author determines on trying a Turkish Bath — En trance to the Bathing Rooms at Galata — Disagreeable Attend ants — Opinions of this Turkish Luxury — Slave Market at Con stantinople — Slavery in Turkey — Negresses — A bad Bargain — Circassian Slaves — Black Slaves — Mahmoud's Tomb ; its extraordinary splendour — Therapia — Ambassadorial Resi dences — Excursion to Scutari — Magnificent Prospect . 289

Chapter XIII

Kindness shown to the English in Constantinople by the Austrian Ambassador — Apprehensions of the Plague exaggerated — Custom of strangers at Constantinople uninvited to join every party of travellers who obtain a firman to view the public buildings — The author receives a special firman from Reschid Pacha — Lady Mary Wortley Montagu's description of Turkish manners — Interior of St. Sophia during the Rama zan—Gigantic candles — Want of decorative comforts among the Turks — Dancing Dervishes — Constantinople devoid of even ing amusements — Opinions of the Turkish ministry — Intel lectual amusement out of the question at Constantinople CONTENTS.

Chapter XIV

The materials for living at Constantinople— The city is illprovided with the comforts and luxuries of European Society — Baron Sturmer — English hospitality found at his house — Negociations for the purchase of an Arab — A Turkish stable — Turkish Etiquette — Conduct of Emir Pacha and his Physician — Arrangements for Lady Londonderry's audience with the Sultan — Lady Londonderry received at court under circumstances differing from those which marked the Sultan's audience with the Countess Woronzow— Prospect of the Sultan's receiving distinguished persons of both sexes as is customary with other sovereigns — Abdul Mehjid and his harem < — The Sultan's brother — The divan — Turkish overreaching — The sapphire ring and the Sultan's portrait — Desirable objects at Constantinople . . . . . . . .321 ILLUSTRATIONS.

VOL. I. Portrait of Prince Metternich . . . Frontispiece. View of Constantinople . . . . .167 VOL. II. Portrait of Abdul Mehjid, the present Sultan of Turkey Frontispiece.

Chapter I

Steam Voyage from the Tower Stairs to Holland — The Thames — Arrival at Rotterdam — Picturesque Scene — Mr. Murray's Hand-Books — Mutual Detestation of Holland and Belgium — Professional Men at Rotterdam — Increase of this City in wealth — Antwerp — Fete for the celebration ofthe second century of Rubens : a strange ceremony — Belgian Soldiers — Leopold's Neutrality — His Policy — Brussels — English Resi dents — A Diner en Gourmand — Railroad to Liege — Inferiority of its structure and arrangements to those of a similar nature in England — Railroad Carriages — Belgian Manners — A curious Scene — Characters — Aix-la-Chapelle — Alterations and im provements here since the Writer's visit when Ambassador at the Court of Vienna in 1815 — Baths — The country from Liege to Cologne — Cologne Cathedral — Present prosperity and favourable prospects of Cologne. -; VOL. I. JOURNAL.

CHAPTER I.

We sailed from the Tower Stairs, on a lovely morning-, in the Giraffe, mail-packet steamer, for Rotterdam. By taking separate cabins in these fine vessels, which now ply on this station, any party or family can be conveniently accommo dated ; and, though the salon, where the mass of the passengers congregate, exhibits a motley col lection of all hues and descriptions of the human species, from age to childhood, and from the noble to the unwashed, the affluent can, by paying in pro portion, enjoy the advantage of separate and quiet accommodation. How often has the tale been told of every inb THE THAMES. teresting object near at home ! — how frequently have the splendid naval institutions at Greenwich, the various edifices and establishments on the river Thames, the docks of Chatham, the entrance of the Nore, and all that belongs to the proud embou chure of England's mighty river, been described !

Passing all these with a conviction that my feeble pen could add little of novelty to subjects so often painted, I shall merely state that, after thirty hours' passage, the vessel was hove-to at the Brill, the first town in Holland where a custom-house is established. On running up to Rotterdam, all merchant vessels are stopped here to have their hatches sealed up, and these are not opened again until they pass the chief bureau at Rotterdam. This regulation prevents their landing any of their cargo by smug gling ashore on either banks of the river. There is a peculiar gaiety in the gaudy, brightly painted, and cleanly aspect of every Dutch town. I remember having described Rotterdam formerly : and I willingly renewed my acquaintance with the golden prows of the Dutch galliots, and with the ROTTERDAM. floating streamers of the Dutch tricoloured flag, — horizontal, instead of perpendicular — the latter being but too well known as belonging to that nation which raised the renown of the French em pire under a standard displaying these colours.

Next came the various ensigns and vanes at the top masts or flag-staffs of the innumerable motley mer chant vessels at anchor ; and, lastly, and adding most to the life, splendour, and brilliancy of the quays of this commercial city, appear the many Rhine boat steamers, which load and unload at all hours of the day, and keep up a continued scene of bustle and activity before r Hotel des Pays Bas. This hotel is considered the best in the place, being patronized by the very excellent English consul, Sir Alexander Ferrier, whose attention and zeal in the service of his countrymen cannot be surpassed. The influx of visiters from England to the different public baths on the Rhine, as well as the numerous books of information that are written, and the quantity of descriptions already in print, both which last may be purchased at the Steam HAND BOOKS.

Navigation Office, render any detail here super fluous. This is more particularly the case, since the very able handbooks of Northern and Southern Germany, compiled and written, I believe, by Mr. Murray, son of the eminent bookseller, have been given to the public. I can from experience de clare, that, on every point connected either with the countries themselves, or the travelling through them, they form a compendium of information and instruction, that shows the imperfection and uselessness of all other books on the same subject. Were I then to enlarge here on what is well known, or attempt the plagiarism which is often re sorted to, in order to make up a journal or book of travels, I should be guilty of great absurdity ; and shall, therefore, only observe, that the establishment by steam, within these few years only, opens an immense traffic, that now exists on the banks of the Rhine, the Meuse, and the Scheldt ; and the rapid circulation, through all channels, of commer cial intercourse in Holland, as in Austrian and Dutch Brabant, (now metamorphosed into the kingdom of Belgium) cannot fail in a very few years to HOLLAND AND BELGIUM. 7 add powerfully to the wealth and prosperity of this part of Europe.

It seemed to me that the Dutch towns had in general greatly increased and improved since the House of Orange was compelled to abandon the possessions obtained in 1814 and 1815, and that the mutual detestation of the two nations, Hol land and Belgium, for each other, was increasing in proportion as each plumed herself on her own augmented prosperity. Although nothing can exceed the movement of trade at Rotterdam, I doubt if the better sort of inhabitants travel out of their old track. There is little encouragement by adequate re munerations for professional men to settle in the city. There are few artists or masters of any kind, and the professors of medicine and surgery are very inferior. I had occasion to visit a dentist ; he furnished me with a bottle of his elixir, and his total demand was seventeen sous — a strange proof how the great operation of looking into your mouth differs in London and in Holland.

The stride towards great wealth made by Rot- STRANGE FESTIVAL terdam is surprising. This city far exceeds Ant werp, Brussels, and, I believe, all Leopold's kingdom together : what may be farther effected for her by steam and railroad, no prophet can foretell. From Rotterdam we went to Antwerp by steam, passing the different small islands of the Scheldt, as well as Dort and other villages, and also the re nowned fortress of Bergen-op-zoom. At Antwerp it was the fete for the celebration of the second century of Rubens. If any part of the world is justified, or called upon, after two hundred years, to renew honours to departed mortal genius, Antwerp may pay this tribute to Rubens, for his finest works are in chis city, and especially the Descent from the Cross. But it does not seem particularly rational, after a lapse of two centuries, to see a large plaster of Paris statue raised on a lofty scaffold, and crowned with laurels, while the whole population of the town is called out for fourteen days together, to indulge in idleness and dissipation, merely to announce that Rubens was a famed Dutch painter in times long passed.

If such "celebrations" are proper and IN HONOUR OF RUBENS. necessary, why not do equal honour to a Shak speare or a Pitt, a Newton, or any of those illus trious men by whose superior intelligence society has so greatly profited ? Above five thousand francs were laid out in illu minations, and arches of triumph built across the principal streets with much architectural taste ; perhaps not the least ridiculous part of this strange ceremony, was a parade on foot round the town of all the authorities, civil and military, who walked uncovered in solemn procession, flanked by one of the elite regiments of lancers of les Braves Beiges. Although I understand King Leopold takes in defatigable pains in endeavouring to improve his Belgian army, from the specimens I saw in his majesty's new dominions, I cannot but incline to the opinion that they are not likely to become a formidable or well disciplined force.

The ambi guous nature of this monarchy, half French, half Dutch, yet hateful to both, will never give a national character to the country, nor to the army an esprit du corps. What political line Leopold would be disposed KING LEOPOLD to take on the oriental question, which at that mo ment agitated Europe, was the most interesting topic to the good people of Brussels. It was true, they said, that, by the treaties which established his kingdom, his neutrality had been ensured. But how far would England and France, in the event of a war, respect this neutrality ? The Belgians, attached to France, and having an enthusiastic recollection of their share in the halcyon days of Napoleon, would raise the popular voice in favour of their ancient alliance. But would the sovereign be of the same opinion was, and perhaps is, the problem to solve.

France could, undoubtedly, at first seize posses sion of a country so limitrophe to her empire as to be, in fact, a province. But, still, with Antwerp and other fortresses, Holland in the rear, and Ha nover and Germany at hand, and, above all, Eng land aiding, perchance, with a British army, the independence of King Leopold's acquired throne and kingdom might be more permanently secured by adhering to the allies, than if he linked him self to Louis Philippe, in whose power alone, (in AND HIS POLICY. case of non-resistance to France) he would ever afterwards remain : and far better would it be, in my opinion, for this founder of a Belgian monarchy, if he should desire for his dynasty an honour able duration, to throw himself into the arms of the many, and reap advantages from all, than to place his destiny at the mercy of the future rulers of France.

King Leopold, however, studiously avoids giving any insight as to his prepossessions. Amiable and considerate both at the courts of St. James and the palace of the Thuileries, he so nicely balances his attentions, that that which is his favourite mistress cannot be discovered by his own privy councillors. Brussels, as usual, was full of English. The palace of the Prince of Orange still remains unin habited — a sad monument, which decay will soon render sadder. What motive requires that it should thus moulder into ruin ? The chief part of the English residents in Brus sels are families who live there on three or four thousand a year far better as to luxuries and for education than they could in England for half as DINER EN GOURMAND. 12 much more. This city always strikes me as being a bad imitation of Paris ; and, liking even a bad original better than a good copy, I never would remain in the former if I could go to the other.

Staying some days at the Hotel de Belle Vue, a greatly overrated establishment, and not near so comfortable as the Hotel de France, I made ac quaintance with Dr. Lever, the physician of the mission. He was desirous of doing the honour of the place to me, and he ordered for us a diner en gourmand, at the chief restaurateur's, maintain ing it surpassed the Rocher at Paris. Six or eight partook of the entertainment, and we all agreed it was infinitely inferior to the Paris display, and very much more extravagant. So much for the copy. I proceeded by the new railroad to Liege, or rather to Ans, to which place only the work has as yet advanced. The inferiority of these new miracles of transport in other countries is quite remarkable, in comparison with those of England. The people actually appear as if they did not know how to RAILWAY CARRIAGES. 13 manage or work scientific discoveries, and their details.

The materials are all of an inferior and inadequate nature, commencing with their uncouth, hissing, snorting engine, and ending with their ill-contrived, double-seated carriages for passengers. An attempt is certainly made at order and regu larity in the arrangements, in imitation of our English plans ; but civil order is not so easily acquired on the Continent as military discipline. Every body seems in confusion ; no person, no part of the picture, is in its proper place and keep ing ; all are directing, shouldering, ordering, and quarrelling, and, at last, every passenger must attend to himself, or be left behind. The carriages are of two sorts — first class, and char-a-banc. The latter are all open ; the people sit back to back, and face to face, as they like, and get at their places by scrambling, squeezing, and altercation.

This is not agreeable for any class of persons, but proper order is indispensable to prevent insults amongst those who seek the best, or first class accommodation. The coaches of the first class have seats both BELGIAN MANNERS. ways, back and front; but there is a passage through the centre of each, with doors, opening into the middle part of the coach, affording only two seats on each side of the door, but four seats opposite the entrance. The places are not num bered, nor are there tickets, and there is a rush to secure what each party requires. I happened to arrive late, and I pressed forward before my family to secure seats. Arriving in the passage between the double coach, and requiring room for six, I posted myself to prevent an intruder, but I was soon assailed by a tall, spectacled merchant, who, with all his vigour, attempted to force by me.

In vain I urged that mesdames were just behind me ; he doggedly persevered, and was followed up by a clerical personage, who poked his long shovel hat into my face. However, I resolutely retained my position, after a sturdy fight and con siderable debate, arising to abuse, and seated my party in safety. But all this would never have oc curred on our railways. At Malines, between Brussels and Liege, the train stops and changes car riages. Here a curious scene occurred. Aninunda- A CURIOUS SCENE. 15 tion of priests poured into all the carriages ; they came so thick, that they were literally thrown back by their attempts to squeeze themselves in, and their cocked hats and black flowing robes gave them the appearance of ravens, with their wide-spreading wings, hovering over their prey in the vehicles.

The greatest part at last took a new flight, finding it impossible to perch ; and then my attention was caught by one of those many strange figures one encounters since railway travelling has been established. It is true that, even in England, you meet all sorts and kinds of persons ; and I have heard that a late ambassador's lady and her daughter travelled in a carriage with a police officer and a felon in irons. But at least the pas sengers here are all of one and confessedly a civilized nation, while on the Continent your fel low-travellers are of all Europe, and you suffer from a quintessence of the vulgar and disgusting habits of all. The character in question, Avho stretched himself at full length on the seat opposite the ladies, appeared like a Spanish grandee, A CHARACTER. or an actor assuming the part ; his two large legs and thighs, clothed in light blue, with long- Spanish boots, and heavy silver spurs, formed the foreground of this extended body ; a black satin waistcoat, overlaid with chains of gold, a black velvet Spanish cloak and hat, together with red beard and whiskers, and a face resembling the Saracen's on Snow Hill, completed the tout-en semble of one who certainly believed none like him existed, and it is sincerely to be hoped he was correct; his conduct was as extravagantly overbearing as his person was odious.

The conveyance by omnibus from Ans to Liege, used temporarily and until the railroad is finished, is a sad purgatory to encounter ; twenty-five or thirty railroad passengers are tumbled and cram med into a long carriage, where, beset with smoke and spitting, liquor, loud talking, vulgarity and abuse, and shaken to pieces over a miserable pave, in a close, crowded vehicle, without springs, it is really almost past the endurance of Job. We dined at Liege, and reached Aix-la-Cha pelle the same evening. At this place, various SIR THOMAS LAWRENCE. 17 old recollections assailed me, and recalled the great transactions of the Congress of 1815, where the details of the peace of Europe were arranged. At that epoch, the constant diplomatic confe rences, and the evening re-unions of the plenipo tentiaries, together with the assemblage of nearly all the princes of Europe on the spot, rendered this town a scene of remarkable interest.

At that time, likewise, as English ambassador at the Court of Vienna, I was intimately mixed up with all that was going forward, and further, I had a peculiar pleasure in being accompanied, at the express desire of George IV., by that accomplished and matchless artist, Sir Thomas Lawrence, who was charged to paint, for Windsor Castle, the im portant and interesting personages forming this remarkable assemblage. Nearly five-and-twenty years had now passed away ; the place was much altered — it had become a great commercial city. The Prussians, into whose possession it fell, according to the arrangements of Congress, had greatly augmented its prosperity. The best streets were all paved witli fine trot- VOL. I. c BATHS toirs ; the buildings had become large, handsome, and numerous ; the hotels and baths equally so ; and the general air of luxury and wealth that prevailed around hardly allowed me to recognise my old quarters.

The baths here, strongly impregnated with sul phur and iron, were considered by Napoleon the best in Germany ; and the splendid imperial bath of fine marble, constructed by himself and by his own order, is yet to be seen. From Liege to Cologne the country, though otherwise flat and uninteresting, is highly luxu riant. The crops of corn on all sides denote fertility in the soil, producing a superabundance of riches ; while the miserable harrow in use turns up the ground as it goes, and that so barely, it creates wonder that the cornucopiæ can be obtained with so little of human labour. After traversing an extensive plain, Cologne is visible far in the distance, where its magnificent and unequalled cathedral raises its mighty head. The structure is Gothic, and is confessedly the finest in Europe ; but, unfortunately, the two great towers COLOGNE. 19 have never been completed, so that they still remain a monument of both the genius of the archi tect, and of the poverty, if not meanness, of the present age.