Journal of an Exploring Tour beyond the rocky mountains under the direction of the A. B. C. F. M. performed in the years 1835, '36, and '37

Front matter

JOURNAL OF AN EXPLORING TOUR BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE A. B.. C. F. M. PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 183 5, '3 6, and '3 7; CONTAINING A DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOGRAPHY, GEOLOGY, CLIMATE, AND productions; and the number, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES. WITH A MAP OF OREGON TERRITORY. BY REV. SAMUEL PABKEB, A. M. ITHACA, N. Y. PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR. Mack, Aadraa, & Woodrafl, Printers. 1838. Entered, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1838, by Samuel Parker, in the Clerk's office of the District Court of the North ern District of New York.

Preface

. In presenting to the public the Journal of a Toutbe yond the Rocky Mountains, the only apology necessary to make is, the hope of promoting a more extensive and par ticular knowledge than has heretofore been furnished, of the condition of that important section of our country. The author's mode of traveling furnished many opportunities for observation, being conducted with leisure, and through one of the most interesting portions of the wide territories of the west. It is believed that no defects exist in the work, irreconcilable with a strict adherence to facts. The principal merit which is claimed for this volume is, a scrupulous adherence to truth. Most of what is narrated in this work came under the author's personal observation, and whatever is stated which did not, was collected from gentlemen con nected with the Hudson Bay Company, whose reputation for honesty and candor, as well as capability of judging in telligently, is well established.

This source of information was available by comparing and collecting the statements of different individuals, retaining what corresponded with his own observation, or was well supported by evidence. The belief is cherished, that the following work contains a greater amount of statistical information in regard to the

PREFACE.

. country, and important facts, than are to be found in any production furnished by the press. Having traveled over a greater extent of territory than any who had preceded, and with the express object of exploring the condition of the aboriginal population, this position can not be consid ered as assumed. Messrs. Lewis and Clarke passed the Rocky Mountains under a governmental appointment to explore the country, more than thirty years since, and their published travels carry with them the evidence of candor and intelligence, and contain much valuable information ; yet their opportunities beyond the mountains were somewhat limited. They passed over the great chain of mountains from the head waters of the Missouri between the 45° and 46° of north latitude, and came upon the head waters of the Cooscootske, and followed that river to its junction with the Lewis or Snake river, and then proceeded by water to the Pacific ocean at the mouth of Columbia river, wintered upon the south side of the bay, and early the following spring returned to the mountains by the same route which they pursued on their outward journey.

All other persons who have published any history of their travels beyond the mountains, were persons engaged in the fur trade, and ma ny of their observations upon different sections of the coun try are just, but they are deficient in statistical information, and their productions are mostly confined to personal adven tures, anecdotes of battles with Blackfeet or Crow Indians, starvation, and hair-breadth escapes. Justice to the public requires fidelity in the historian and traveler. It is not our business to originate facts, but to record them. The license given to poets, or writers of romance, cannot be tolerated

PREFACE.

. V Here, and no flights of a lively imagination, or graphic powers in relating passing occurrences, can atone for im pressions which are not in accordance with truth. While it was the leading object to become acquainted with the situation of the remote Indian tribes, and their disposition in regard to teachers of Christianity, yet a careful attention was given to the geography of the country, its productions ; the climate and seasons, animals, lakes, rivers, and smaller fountains ; forests and prairies, mountains and valleys, its mineral and geological structure, and all the various aspects of its physical condition. The country here described is sui generis ; every thing is formed on a large scale. Its lofty and perpetual snow-topped mountains rising 20,000 feet or more, the trees of the forest, the wide extended prairies, plants of enormous growth, and the results of volcanic agency which you meet in almost every direction, render the whole an ever increasing scene of interest to the trav eler ; and if any statements appear large, it is because the facts are so in themselves.

It has been an object in writing this volume to compress as much as possible the amount of information, instead of unnecessarily extending it, and the hope is indulged, that while these facts are perused, the desire may be awakened if it does not already exist, and if in existence, may be greatly increased, to benefit the original, the rightful own. ers, and, (with the exception of a few thousand fur traders scattered to every point of compass over this territory,) the sole occupants of this wide field of uncultivated nature. The map which accompanies this work has been prepar ed with much labor and care ; and though some minute. VI

PREFACE.

. parts are omitted, it will be found to be far more accurate than any which has heretofore been published. In addition to surveys of my own, I have availed myself of those of gentlemen connected with the Hudson Bay Compa ny, in parts whicli I did not visit, and am especially in. debted to Vancouver and the labors of other explorers for much that I have delineated of the North-West coast of the Pacific ocean, and the Islands. The accompanying engraving of the basaltic formation on the Columbia river, was taken for the purpose of ex plaining the geology, as mentioned on page two hundred and twenty-six, not, however, presenting the whole number of the different sections of basalt, amygdaloid, and breccia, but a sufficient number to illustrate the subject. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

The Tour commenced by way of Geneva and Buffalo ; a brief description of Erie; of Meadville ; rest at Mercer ; Pittsburgh; passage to Cincinnati in tbe steam-boat Ohioan; Wheeling; Marietta; Portsmouth ; the steam-boat takes fire ; Cincinnati ; Louisville ; Falls of the Ohio ; the Ohio river ; Ohio and Kentucky ; confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers; Point Girardou ; beautiful appearance of fire on the prairie; St. Genevieve, old custom; Herculaneum ; gambling on board the steam-boats; St. Louis; Dr. M. Whitman ; Mr. Fontcnelle 13

Chapter II

Leave St. Louis for Liberty; passage up the Missouri; snags; a walk on shore ; Jefferson city ; river scenery ; steam-boat Siam ; sand bars; Lexington; steam-boat disaster; Liberty; Navahoe Indians; ride to Cantonment Leavenworth; amusing dialect; caravan commence their journey ; first encampment ; Ioway Indians ; Blacksnake Hills ; Nodaway river ; Elk ; crossed the Neshnabotana ; rich soil ; rapid rise of the north branch of Neshnabotana ; mode of living ; mounds of the west ; crossing of the Missouri ; Bellevue ; Missionaries. ..;... 26

Chapter III

Continuance at Council Bluffs ; interesting scenery; Indian curiosity ; information obtained about several Indian tribes ; spasmodic cholera; an Indian chief killed; leave Bellevue for the Black Hills ; storm of rain ; heavy thunder storm ; Elkhorn river, the country around ; Loups fork of the Platte ; manner of encamping ; Big Ax, Pawnee chief: Indian feasting; fourth of July; Messrs. Dunbar and Allis ; thunder storm; Indian ornaments; effects of drunkenness ; bite of a rattle-snake ; buffalo seen ; Prai- CONTENTS. rie horse-fly ; forks of the Platte ; want of wood ; swiftness of antelopes; climate; thousands of buffalo ; Badgers; prairie dog; interesting bluffs ; old castle ; the chimney or beacon ; an alarm ; Ogallallah Indians, their lodges ; Black Hills 41

Chapter IV

BlackHill3; day of indulgence ; buffalo dance; the desire of Indians for instruction ; met the chiefs in council ; rc-commenced our journey for rendezvous ; anthracite coal ; species of wormwood ; Red Bute ; traces of grizzly bears ; geology ; Rock Independence ; Rocky Mountains ; perpetual snow ; valley through the mountains; "thunder spirits" gone; an alarm; waters of the Colorado 66

Chapter V

Arrive at rendezvous ; trappers and hunters ; four Indian nations ; Flatheads and Nez Perces, no reason why so called ; surgical operations; an interview with the Flathead and Nez Perce chiefs; their anxiety for religious instruction; return of Doct. Whitman ; Shoshones and Utaws ; mountain life 76

Chapter VI

Part with my associate; anive at head waters of the Columbia; kindness of the Indians ; narrow defile ; geology ; Jackson's Hole ; wild flax ; trappers go out on a hunt ; mountain prospect ; Trois Tetons; danger from affrighted buffalo ; Pierre's Hole; volcanic chasm ; children on horseback ; interesting worship with the Indians ; burial of a child; scarcity of food; a timely supply; Salmon river; expected battle; geological observations; scene of mourning 82

Chapter VII

Salmon river and mountains ; chimnies ; forest trees, new species of pine; geology; sulphur lake; a rare animal; new species of squirrels and pheasant ; came to the Lewis branch of the Colum- CONTENTS. IX bia ; ferryman ; basaltic formation ; fine climate ; arrive at Walla Walla 108

Chapter VIII

Description of Walla Walla ; the kind treatment of the Indians by the Hudson Bay Company ; leave Walla Walla for Fort Vancouver; loquacious orator; rapids; introduction to the Cayuse Indians ; morning prospect ; long rapids ; volcanic mountains ; trial of Indian generosity ; arrival at the falls of the Columbia river ; the rousing effects of oratory ; La Dalles; Boston trading company; remarkable subsidence ; Cascades; Chenooks are the Flatheads and Nez Perces ; dangerous rapids ; Indian burying places ; Pillar Rock ; interesting water fall ; sea fowl ; arrive at Fort Vancouver 123

Chapter IX

Description of Fort Vancouver; departure for Fort George and mouth of the Columbia ; mouths of the Multnomah ; Wappatoo island ; May Dacre ; coffin rock ; Cowalitz river ; Indian friendship ; Pacific ocean ; Gray's bay ; Astoria 140

Chapter X

Description of Fort George; mouth of the Columbia; dangerous bar; mountainous coast; varieties of timber; good location for a missionary station ; continued rains ; dense forests ; excursion in a canoe down the bay ; view of the coast ; disasters at the entrance of the Columbia ; ship William and Anne ; ship Isabella ; Tonquin; Japanese junk ; reflections; water fowl; return to Fort Vancouver ; the regard Indians show the dead ; Indian kindness. 146

Chapter XI

Review of journeyings ; school; journey up the Willamette; walk upon the pebbly shore ; falls ; settlement on the Willamette ; methodist mission; epidemic; voyage down the river; hospitality of Wanaxka ; construction of his house ; Fort William on the Wap- X CONTENTS. patoo island ; astonishing thirst for ardent spirits ; return to Fort Vancouver. ]58

Chapter XII

Services on the sabbath ; obstacles to the gospel ; discouraging case ; manner of spending time ; description of Vancouver ; fur and farming establishment ; garden productions ; lumber ; commerce ; peltries; system of the Hudson Bay Company; waste of life; hardships of a hunter's life ; their perseverance ; christian principle ; worldly principle 170

Chapter XIII

Indian population ; diseases; mortality; attributed to cultivation of the soil; destitute of medical science ; holidays; customs at home; customs of the Indians ; resemblance to Jewish customs in punishment; marriage contracts; condition of ihe females ; slavery; division into tribes; two points of dissimilarity ; sacrifices; language 173

Chapter XVII

Character and condition of the Indians ; Indians of the plains; their persons ; dress ; wealth ; habits ; physical character ; manufactures ; their religion ; wars : vices ; moral disposition ; superstitions; medicine men CONTENTS. XI

Chapter XIX

Conversation with an .intelligent Indian ; meeting wilh Indians ; early and mild season ; La Dalle Indians ; their anxiety to receive the gospel; ornithology; Nootka humming bird ; number and location of the Indians in the lower country ; Indians of the north ; the agitated question : solitariness 253

Chapter XX

Departure for the upper country ; American hunters ; geology at the Cascades ; Indian honesty ; escape in a dangerous gale ; the Falls a favorable location for a missionary station ; tender sympathy ; famished Indians ; arrival at Walla Walla ; interesting meeting of Indians ; opportunity to give them religious instruction ; a walk ; the nutritious quality of prairie grass 264

Chapter XXI

Journey to the Nez Perce country ; funeral of a child ; natural scenery; worship on the sabbath ; return to Walla Walla ; industry of the Indians ,- battle ground ; practice of smoking ; journey to Colville 275

Chapter XXII

Paloose Indians ; Pavilion river ; extraordinary excavation ; lost on the prairie ; Indian principle ; Spokein woods and country ; Indian ferry ; Spokein valley ; Granite ; volcanic curiosities ; fertile valley ; worship with the Spokeins ; Mill river valley ; arrival at Fort .Colville ; description of the place ; leave Colville for Fort Okanagan ; a mountain of marble ; Grand Coule, or old bed of the Columbia ; Okanagan described ; Long Rapids ; arrive at Walla Walla CONTENTS.

Chapter XXIII

A summary of the Indians of the upper country ; names of the tribes, their locations and numbers ; leave Walla Walla for Fort Vancouver ; swift passage down the river ; run the Falls ; Cascades; dangerous eddy ; arrive at Vancouver ; steam-boat excur sion 300

Chapter XXIV

General remarks ; Meteorological table ; Vocabulary of the Nez Perce, Chenook, Klieatat, and Callapooa languages; Ornithology. 312

Chapter XXV

The voyage commenced for the Sandwich islands ; passage in the boat down the river ; take passage in the barque Columbia ; detention in Chenook bay ; arrival at the islands ; worship in the native church ; description of Oahu ; the Pari ; the valley of Manoa ; description of Honolulu ; of Wailiti; heathen temple ; Eva ; Waialua ; Keneohe ; mountains ; salt lake ; geology ; natural productions ; animals ; government ; tea party of the royal family ; dinner to the officers of the Peacock and Enterprise ; decrease of population; unfair negotiations; foreign residents; charity school; seamen's chapel ; burying place of the royal family ; missionary success 341

Chapter XXVI

Departure from Oahu in ship Phœnix for the United States; call at the Society islands; brief description of Tahiti and Eimeo; severe gales of wind; Magellan clouds ; Martin Vass island ; Trinidad ; arrival at New London . PARKER'S TOUR.

Chapter I

The Tour commenced by way of Geneva and Buffalo— a brief description of Erie — of Meadville — rest at Mercer. — Pittsburgh — passage to Cincinnati in the steam-boat Ohioan — Wheeling— Marietta — Portsmouth — the steam-boat took fire — Cincinnati — Louisville — Falls of the Ohio — the Ohio river— Ohio and Kentucky — coflnuence of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers — Point Girardou — beautiful appearance of fire on the prairie — St. Genevieve, old custom — Herculaneum — gambling on board the steam-boats — St. Louis — Dr. M. Whitman — Mr. Fontenelle. The wide extent of country beyond the Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains, with its inhabitants and physical condition, has been a subject of interesting enquiry for the last thirty years. Many things, relating to the possession of the country, its future probable importance in a political view, its population and trade, have occupied much attention.

The christian public have not been inattentive to the interests, moral and religious, of those whom the God of providence has placed in these remote regions, and who are without the blessings of civilization and Christiani ty. The American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, appointed an exploring mission to that country, to ascertain, by personal observation, the condition and character of the Indian nations and tribes, and the facilities for introducing the gospel and civilization among them. EHIE MEADVILLE. That difficulties and dangers would be incident to a journey through a country of such extent, uninhabited except by wandering bands of Indians, where no provisions could be obtained besides uncertain game, could not be doubted. It was not a consciousness of undaunted courage, or in difference to suffering, or the love of romance, which fixed my purpose ; but it was the importance of the object.

It was a trial to leave my family not knowing what was before us, but when the time came to commence my journey, we committed ourselves to God, and the enterprise was under taken without reluctance on the 14th of March, 1835. Spent the next day, which was the Sabbath, at Geneva ; and the following day continued my journey by way of Buffalo, travelling day and night, to Erie, Pennsylvania, where I arrived on the 19th. Erie is a very pleasant village, of considerable business, situated upon the south shore of the lake of the same name. It has a good harbor for steam-boats, which pass up and down the lake, and for the accommodation of which, wharves have been built at very considerable expense. The country around is fertile, and presents much promise for the agriculturist. Had a night's rest at the hospitable dwelling of the Rev. G. A. Lyon.

On the 20th took stage for Pittsburgh, which is one hundred and twenty miles south ; and on the morning of the next day breakfasted at Meadville, a very pleasant inland village, situated near French Creek, forty miles south of Erie. Here is a court-house, and a college of which Rev. T. Alden, D. D. was the first president, who took a very active part in its establishment. The college edifice is situated upon an eminence facing the south, and commanding a fine prospect. There are also in this village two churches, and several other public buildings. From this place to Mercer the roads were extremely bad, on account of the depth of the mud ; but the difficulties were overcome by the usual methods of profuse whipping, PITTSBURGH. unloading the vehicle, and applying rails to the wheels; at length we arrived late in the night at Mercer, where we got an opportunity for a little rest, which was very accept able, having only one night's rest out of seven.

Continued in this place over Sabbath, and until Tuesday morning. How desirable is the Sabbath as a day of quiet and of devo tion. I never felt it to be more so. Was invited, while I should continue in this place, to share the hospitality of Mrs. P , whose family I found to be very agreeable and pious. Mrs. P and her brother J. P. S., appear to be very devoted and ready to do whatever may promote the glory of God and the salvation of souls. Took stage five o'clock Tuesday morning, and passing through Centreville and Butler, small, pleasant villages, arrived at Pittsburgh on the twenty-fifth. Dined with Dr. Herron. Pittsburgh is situated at the confluence of the Alleghany and Monongahela rivers, nine hundred and sixty miles above the mouth of the Ohio river. Its location is judiciously chosen.

The country around, agreeably diver sified with hills and vallies, together with meadows and bluffs which skirt the rivers, adds much to its charms. In point of manufactures, population and wealth, but few places in the valley of the Mississippi equal this in importance. Among its manufactories are many large iron foundries, rolling-mills, and nail factories ; also large establishments of glass works, in some of which is manufactured flint glass of an excellent quality and good workmanship. The materials for making this are uncommonly good. The best of granular quartz of loose texture is obtained from a location some little distance up the Alleghany river, where there are inexhaustable quantities. It is more purely white than is often found. On this account, this place has an important advantage over most others for manufacturing the above named article.

There are also several large cotton, and many other factories, of various character. There are WHEELING MARIETTA. such immense quantities of excellent pit coal about this place, that there is no reason to fear it will ever be exhaust ed, or become expensive. The city is well built ; but has rather a gloomy appearance, caused by the smoke of the bituminous coal so much used in their factories and dwell ings. While Lowell is the Manchester, Pittsburgh is the Birmingham, of America. There are in this city, thirteen houses of worship, and many public institutions for literature, justice, and com merce. With the name of Pittsburgh, will always be associated Braddock's defeat, which took place when he was sent to take possession of Fort Du Quesne, and with this event will also be associated the skill and prudence of Washington in conducting the retreat.

Toward the eve ning of the day of my arrival here, took passage in the steam-boat Ohioan for Cincinnati, four hundred and fifty five miles from Pittsburgh by the river, and calmly descended the Ohio, which winds its way through a fertile country diversified with forests, cultivated fields, and flourishing vii. Iages. On the morning of the 26th, stopped at Wheeling, Va. ninety-two miles below Pittsburgh, situated on the south side of the river, upon elevated ground, surrounded by high and steep hills. The great Cumberland road cross. es the Ohio here by a ferry. It is a manufacturing town of growing importance. Passed Marietta seventy-six miles below Wheeling, situ. ated on the north side of the Ohio, a little above the conflu ence of the Muskingum. It is surrounded with a fertile country, and is one of the first settled towns in the state.

The first wagon arrived from Massachusetts in 1788, and Cutler's and Putnam's names are still remembered in this place. It is a place of considerable business ; has a court. house, two churches, and an academy ; and from the obser vation I could make of it in the evening, I should think it handsomely situated. CINCINNATI. Passed Portsmouth, situated upon the east bank of the Sciota, near its junction with the Ohio. This is a flourishing village, and has the advantage of being upon the great Ohio canal, where it enters the river. The morning of the 27th, we stopped at Maysville, Kentucky. This is a com pact, well-built town, situated a little below Limestone Creek, sixty-five miles above Cincinnati. There is but a narrow strip of land, on which the village is built, between the river and a chain of high hills close in the rear of the village.

Manufactures and considerable trade are carried on ; and its location is favorable for business with the in terior of the state. Arrived at Cincinnati on the 28th. On our way to day, near the town of Ripley, the boat took fire in the hold. There was a very stiff head -wind, which blew the fire back from the furnace down the hatch way, which after taking out some goods, had been carelessly left open. It caused great alarm. The captain at once rounded the boat to the shore, and ran it in among some trees. As soon as the boat reached the land, many threw their baggage on shore, and leaped from the upper deck. The hold contained many combustible cotton goods. But the fire was subdued, and after considerable difficulty the boat was again under way. Cincinnati is a large city for so new a country, situated in the south-west corner of the state, on the north side of the river, upon two plains ; one about sixty feet above the other, both of which appear formerly to have been washed by the river.

The lower plain is about fifty feet above the bed of the river at low water. The streets run parallel and cross each other at right angles; the principal ones are paved, also the bank down to the water against the business part of the city, for the accommodation of loading and un loading steam and other boats. It is well built, and to a considerable extent the buildings are made of brick. One would hardly think from the mature appearance, and from 2* FALLS OF THE OHIO. the quantity of business going forward, that the first settle ment was made in the year 1789. It is not only a com mercial, but also a manufacturing, place, to a large extent. The population is composed of emigrants and their descend ants from New England, and the middle and some of the southern states, and also from various parts of Europe ; and consequently of not a very homogeneous character.

The city is well supplied with schools and seminaries of learning. There is a medical college in the city ; and two miles back, upon a pleasant hill, is the Lane Theological Seminary, which promises much toward helping forward the interests of religion in the west. Good morals and religion are as well sustained in this city as in any in our land. Took the steam-boat Chien, Captain Reynolds, for St. Louis, which by water is six hundred and ninety miles from Cincinnati. Arrived on the 30th at Louisville. This is a flourishing city situated near the falls of the Ohio, on the Kentucky side of the river, one hundred and fifty miles be low Cincinnati. It is a growing place of much commercial and manufacturing business. The falls of the Ohio are twenty -two feet, and can be passed over by boats in high water only ; which stage of water does not average more than two months in a year.

To save expense and delay of portage around the falls, a canal has been constructed on the south side of the river at great labor and cost. It is two miles in length, fifty feet wide, and forty feet deep, and is cut part of the way through solid limestone. The water being high, we passed over the falls. It was a sublime scene. The water about Louisville moves slowly and smoothly ; but as you draw near to the falls, it in creases in velocity and power. You soon find yourself in an irresistable current ; and you are anxious to know whether your pilots are well skilled in their profession. — You look at them to see if they betray any fear ; you find, THE OHIO RIVER OHIO AND KENTUCKY. 19 while their attention is fixed, their countenances are serene. Your fears give way to the pleasure of the sublime.

The boat shoots forward with amazing force and velocity, and very soon you find yourself gliding along in the wide-spread calm below. The Ohio is a noble river, affording in its whole course romantic and beautiful prospects. It flows in a smooth and easy current, and is diversified on every side with rich bottom land, rolling hills, and precipitous bluffs. These hills and bluffs, in many places, rise abruptly from the shore of the river, in other places they recede some miles, but in every part are in view ; and so varied is the scenery, that there is no weariness caused by monotony. No where has the hand of industry been wanting to add interest in passing through this part of the great western valley. Farms, and towns, and villages, evince the advantage that has been taken of the exuberance of the soil.

The many swift moving, panting steam-boats show that industry furnishes the means of wide-extended and profitable commerce. One can not bat notice the difference in the taste and habits presented on the two sides of this river. Upon the Ohio side, New England modes and habits prevail. Upon the Kentucky side, the style of the rich Virginian planter is seen. Though almost all their buildings, except in villages, are made of logs, yet there are the customs of nobility kept np. You see a two story house, with two rooms upon each floor, and a wide, open, airy hall between. One of the lower rooms is a parlor, the other is a nursery, sleeping, and an eating room. Around this log mansion are a cluster of log cabins, the habitations of slaves. Open, fran'; hospitality characterizes the Kentuckian, which is pleasing to a stranger.

I offered a lady in one of these mansions some tracts, which she at first declined with the enquiry, " Do you think we are heathen ?" " No, madam, for the heathen cannot read ; but tracts contain much that is interesting PRAIRIES ON FIRE. to all classes of people, and after they are read, they can be circulated among those who may not be well supplied with books." I saw but a very few houses of worship ex cept in villages. Passed, on the first of April, out of the waters of the Ohio into those of the Mississippi. The Ohio spreads out into a narrow sea and meets the Mississippi in the same form. Both appear to expand themselves into their most majestic forms, as though each was making an effort to claim the superiority ; and when joined, they move on with united grandeur. We should expect, at the confluence of these two rivers, to find a business-going village, but instead of such a place, there is only a whiskey-selling tavern, around which are a few miserable huts.

To-day, a boy ten or twelve years old, playing about the machinery of the boat, was caught in it by the leg, and had he not been immediately seized and extricated by two men standing by, he must have been drawn wholly in and crushed to pieces. The bones were not broken, but the calf of the leg was distressingly mangled. There being no surgeon on board, I officiated in dressing his wounds. Passed, on the second, Point Girardou, fifty miles above the mouth of the Ohio. It is pleasantly situated upon a bluff on the west side of the Mississippi. It has a fine prospect of the river, and might, under the hand of industry, become a desirable place ; but the French Catholics are not an enterprising people, and it has the appearance of de cay. We moved but slowly against the wind and current. Witnessed this evening a very pleasing scene, the fires of the prairies coming over the bluffs.