Journal of an exploring tour beyond the Rocky Mountains : under the direction of the A. B. C. F. M. containing a description of the geography, geology, climate, production of the country, and the numbers, manners, and customs of the natives: With a map of Oregon Territory

Front matter

Class

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=_ iisa**

Preface

In presenting to the public the Journal of a Tour beyond the Rocky Mountains, the only apology, necessary to offer, is the hope of promoting a more extensive and particular knowledge, than has hitherto been furnished, of the condition of that important section of our country. The author's mode of traveling furnished many opportunities for observation, being conducted with leisure, through one of the most interesting portions of the wide territories of the west. It is believed that no defects exist in the work, irreconcilable with a strict adherence to facts, and this scrupulous regard to truth is the principal merit claimed for the volume. The most of what is narrated came under the author's personal observation, and whatever is stated which did not, was obtained from gentlemen connected with the Hudson Bay Company, whose reputation for honesty and candor, as well as capability of judging intelligently, is well established. This source of information was made available by collecting and comparing the statements of different individuals, retaining what corresponded with his own observation, or was well supported by evidence. The belief is cherished, that the following work contains a greater

VI PREFACE.

amount of statistical information in regard to the country, and important facts, than is to be found in any production furnished by the press. Having gone over a greater extent of territory than any traveler who had preceded, and with the express object of exploring the condition of the aboriginal population, this position cannot be considered as assumed. Messrs. Lewis and Clarke passed the Rocky Mountains under a governmental appointment to explore the country, more than thirty years since, and their published narrative carries with it evidence of candor and intelligence, and contains much valuable information ; yet their opportunities for observation were somewhat limited. They passed over the great chain of mountains, from the head waters of the Missouri, between the 45° and 46° of north latitude, and came upon the head waters of the Coos-coots-kee, and followed that river to its junction with the Lewis or Snake river, and then proceeded by water to the Pacific ocean at the mouth of the Columbia river; wintered upon the south side of the bay, and early the following spring returned to the mountains by the same route which they pursued on their outward journey. All other persons who have published any history of their travels beyond the mountains, were persons engaged in the fur trade, and many of their observations upon different sections of the country are just, but they are deficient in statistical information, and their productions are mostly confined to personal ad-

PREFACE. Vll

ventures, anecdotes of battles with Blackfeet or Crow Indians, starvation, and hair-breadth escapes. Justice to the public requires fidelity in the historian and traveler. It is not their business to originate facts, but to record them. The license giyen to poets, or writers of romance, cannot be tolerated here, and no flights of a lively imagination, or graphic powers in relating passing occurrences, can atone for impressions which are not in accordance with truth.

While it Was a leading object to become acquainted with the situation of the remote Indian tribes, and their disposition in regard to teachers of Christianity, yet a careful attention was given to the geography of the country, with its productions; the climate and seasons, animals, lakes, rivers, and smaller fountains ; forests and prairies, mountains and valleys, its mineral and geological structure, and all the various aspects of its physical condition. The country here described is sui generis : every thing is formed on a large scale. Its lofty and perpetual snow-topped mountains rising 20,000 feet or more above the ocean, the trees of the forest, the widely extended prairies, plants of enormous growth, and the results of volcanic agency which are met with in almost every direction, render the whole an ever increasing scene of interest to the traveler ; and if any statements appear large, it is because the facts are so in themselves.

It has been an object in writing this volume to condense as much as possible the amount of information, instead of

Vlll PREFACE.

unnecessarily extending it, and the hope is indulged, that while these facts are perused, the desire may be awakened, if it do not already exist, to benefit the original, the rightful owners, and with the exception of a few thousand fur traders scattered in every direction over this territory, the sole occupants of this wide field of uncultivated nature.

The map which accompanies the work, has been prepared with much labor and care ; and though some minute parts are omitted, it will be found far more accurate than any which has before been published. In addition to my own surveys, I have availed myself of those of gentlemen connected with the Hudson Bay Company, in parts which I did not visit, and am especially indebted to Vancouver, and the labors of other explorers for much that I have delineated of the North-West coast of the Pacific ocean, and the Islands.

Preface To The Fourth Edition

The interest the public have taken in this work, evinced by the many highly commendatory reviews and notices, which have appeared in numerous periodicals, religious, scientific, and political, both in this country and in Europe, together with the sale of the former editions, has influenced the author to publish a fourth edition. Many persons, whose judgment, extensive knowledge, and piety, entitle them to= be held in high estimation, have encouraged him to believe that this work has been interesting to men of science, useful in advancing general knowledge, and promoting the spirit of missions, and what is not the least to be valued, in awakening a sympathy for the long neglected Indians of Oregon,,

As it was an object in preparing the first edition to compress as great an amount of information as possible in the compass of a duodecemo volume, so in this — the same object has been pursued. Since the publication of the first edition, the whole work has been attentively revised, corrected, and enlarged. It is hoped that it will contribute its influence, however small it may be, in aiding the cause of human welfare. I shall be pardoned if I assert the sentiment, that the acquisition of all knowledge should be made

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X PREFACE TO "THE FOURTH EDITION.

subservient to this important use, and that the gold from any region, if it cannot be refined in this crucible, is of no real value, and whatever will not directly or indirectly, nearly or remotely, concur in this great end, must at length endure the ultimate fate of that " Imowledge which shall vanish away."

Chapter I

The Tour commenced by way of Buffalo, Erie and Pittsburgh ; passage to Cincinnati in the steam-boat Ohioan ; the steam-boat takes fire ; Cincinnati ; Falls of the Ohio ; the Ohio River ; Ohio and Kentucky ; confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers ; Point Girardou ; beautiful appearance of fire on the prairie ; St. Genevieve, old custom ; Herculaneum ; gambling on board the steam-boats; St. Louis ; Dr. M. Whitman ; Mr. Fontenelle 1'

Chapter II

Leave St. Louis for Liberty ; passage up the Missouri ; snags ; a walk on shore ; Jefferson city ; River scenery ; Steam-boat Siam ; Sand bars ; Lexington ; Steam-boat disaster ; Liberty ; Navahoe Indians ; ride to Cantonment Leavenworth ; amusing provincialisms ; Caravan commence their journey ; first encampment ; Iowa Indians ; Blacksnake hills ; Nodaway river ; Elk; cross the Neshnabotana; Rich soil ; rapid rise of the north branch of Neshnabotana ; mode of living ; mounds of the west ; eross the Missouri ; Bellevue : Missionaries. . . .26

Chapter III

Continuance at Council Bluffs ; interesting scenery ; Indian curiosity ; information obtained about several Indian tribes ; Spasmodic Cholera ; an Indian Chief killed ; leave Bellevue for the Black Hills ; storm of rain ; heavy thunder storm ; Elkhorn river, the country around ; Loups Fork of the Platte ; manner of encamping ; Big Ax, Pawnee Chief; Indian feasting ; fourth of July ; Messrs. Dunbar and Allis ; thunder storm ; Indian Ornaments ; effects of drunkenness ; bite of a rattle-snake ; buf-

Xll CONTENTS.

falo seen ; prairie horse-fly ; forks of the Platte ; want of wood ; swiftness of antelopes; climate; thousands of buffalo ; badgers; prairie dog ; interesting bluffs ; old castle ; the chimney, or beacon ; an alarm ; Ogallallah Indians, their lodges ; Black Hills. 43

Chapter IV

Black Hills ; day of indulgence ; buffalo dance ; the desire of Indians for instruction ; met the chiefs in council ; re-commenced our journey for rendezvous ; anthracite coal ; species of wormwood ; Red Bute ; traces of grizzly bears ; geology ; Rock Independence ; Rocky Mountains ; perpetual snow ; valley through the mountains ; " thunder spirits" gone ; an alarm ; waters of the Colorado. . ..... ... .. 69

Chapter V

Arrive at rendezvous ; trappers and hunters; four Indian nations; Flatheads and Mez Percds, no reason why so called ; surgical operations ; an interview with the Flathead and Nez Perce' chiefs ; their anxiety for religious instruction ; return of Doct. Whitman ; Shoshones and Utaws ; mountain life. . . 76

Chapter VI

Part with my associate ; arrive at head waters of the Columbia ; kindness of the Indians ; narrow defile ; geology ;. Jackson's Hole ; wild flax ; trappers go out on a hunt ; mountain prospect ; Trois Tetons ; danger from affrighted buffalo ; Pierre's Hole ; Volcanic chasm ; children on horseback ; interesting worship with the Indians ; burial of a child ; scarcity of food ; a timely supply ; Salmon river ; expected battle ; geological observations : scene of mourning. . . . . .87

Chapter VII

Salmon river; mineral salt; chimney; forest trees, new species of pine ; geology; sulphur lake; a rare animal; new species of squirrels and pheasants ; came to the Lewis branch of the Columbia ; ferryman; Basaltic formation; fine climate; arrive at Walla Walla 115

CONTENTS. Xlll

Chapter VIII

Description of Walla Walla ; the kind treatment of the Indians by the Hudson Bay Company ; leave Walla Walla for fort Van. couver ; loquacious orator ; rapids ; introduction to the Cayuse Indians; morning prospects; long rapids; Volcanic mountains ; trial of Indian generosity ; arrival at the falls of the Columbia river ; rousing effects of oratory ; La Dalles ; Boston trading company ; remarkable subsidence ; Cascades ; Chenooks are the Flatheads and Nez Perces ; dangerous rapids ; Indian burying places ; Pillar rock ; interesting waterfall ; sea fowl ; arrive at Fort Vancouver 131

Chapter IX

Description of Fort Vancouver ; departure for Fort George and mouth of the Columbia ; mouths of the Multnomah ; Wappatoo Island ; May Dacre ; Coffin Rock ; Cowalitz river ; Indian friendship ; Pacific ocean ; Gray's bay ; Astoria. . . . 149

Chapter X

Description of Fort George ; mouth of the Columbia ; dangerous bar ; mountainous coast ; varieties of timber ; good location for a missionary station ; continued rains ; dense forests — excursion in a canoe down the bay ; view of the coast ; disasters at the entrance of the Columbia ; ship William and Anne ; ship Isabella ; Tonquin ; Japanese junk ; reflections ; water fowl ; return to Fort Vancouver ; the regard Indians show the dead ; Indian kindness 156

Chapter XI

Review of journeyings ; school ; journey up the Willamette ; walk upon the pebbly shores ; falls ; settlement on the Willamette ; Methodist mission ; epidemic ; voyage down the river ; hospi-, tality of Wanaxka ; construction of his house ; Fort William on the Wappatoo island — astonishing thirst for ardent spirits ; return to Fort Vancouver. . . . . . . .169

XIV CONTENTS.

Chapter XII

Services on the Sabbath ; obstacles to the gospel ; discouraging case ; manner of spending time ; description of Vancouver ; fur and farming establishment; garden productions; lumber; commerce ; peltries ; system of the Hudson Bay Company ; waste of life ; hardships of a hunter's life ; their perseverance ; Chris, tian principle ; worldly principle. 183

Chapter XIII

Indian population; diseases; mortality; attributed to cultivation of the soil; Indians destitute of medical science; holidays; customs at home ; customs of the Indians ; resemblance to Jewish customs in punishment; marriage contracts; condition of the females ; slavery ; divisions into tribes ; one point of dissimilarity, language. 192

Chapter XV

Fish; description of salmon ; salmon fishery ; ornithology ; dendrology ; shrubbery ; nutritive roots ; geography ; mountains ; valleys ; plains ; forests ; rivers ; soil ; seasons. . . .216

Chapter XVI

Character and condition of the Indians ; Indians of the plains ; their persons ; dress ; wealth ; habits ; physical character; manufactures ; their religion ; wars ; vices ; moral disposition ; superstitions ; medicine men. 232

CHAPTER XVII. The Indians of the lower country. < 248

CONTENTS. XV

Chapter XVIII

Conversation with an intelligent Indian ; meeting with Indians ; early and mild season ; La Dalles Indians ; their anxiety to receive the gospel ; Nootka humming bird ; number and location of the Indians in the lower country ; Indians of the north ; the agitated question ; solitariness. 260

Chapter XIX

Departure for the upper country; American hunters; geology at the Cascades ; Indian honesty ; escape in a dangerous gale ; the Falls a favorable location for a missionary station ; tender sympathy ; famished Indians ; arrival at Walla Walla ; inter, esting meeting of Indians ; opportunity to give them religious instruction ; a walk ; the nutritious quality of prairie grass. . 273

Chapter XX

Journey to the Nez Perce country ; funeral of a child ; natural scenery ; worship on the Sabbath ; return to Walla Walla — industry of the Indians ; battle ground ; practice of smoking ; journey to Colvile. 285

Chapter XXI

Paloose Indians ; Pavilion river ; extraordinary excavation ; lost on the prairie ; Indian principle; Spokcin woods and country ; Indian ferry ; Spokein valley ; granite ; volcanic curiosities ; fertile valley ; worship with the Spokeins ; IVEill river valley ; arrival at Fort Colvile ; description of the place ; leave Colvile for Fort Okanagan ; a mountain of marble ; Grand Could, or old bed of the Columbia ; Okanagan described ; Long rapids ; arrive at Walla Walla. . . 204

Chapter XXII

A summary of the Indians of the Upper country ; names of the tribes, their locations and numbers ; leave Walla Walla for Fort

XVI CONTENTS.

Vancouver ; swift passage down the river ; run the Falls ; Cascades ; dangerous eddy ; arrive at Vancouver ; steam-boat excursion. - . 313

Chapter XXIV

General remarks ; passage in the steam-ship Beaver down the river ; take passage on board the barque Columbia ; detention in Chenook bay ; great cave ; Codfish, the first ever taken in this bay 347

Chapter XXV

Departure for the Sandwich Islands ; Arrival at the Islands ; worship in the native church ; description of Oahu ; the Pari ; the valley of Manoa ; description of Honolulu ; of Waititi ; heathen temple ; Eva ; Waialua; Keneohe ; mountains ; salt lake; natural productions ; animals; government; tea party of the royal family ; dinner to the officers of the Peacock and Enterprise ; decrease of population ; unfair negotiations ; foreign residents ; charity school ; seamen's chapel ; burying place of the royal family ; missionary success 353

Chapter XXVI

Departure from Oahu in ship Phoenix for the United States ; call at the Society Islands ; brief description of Tahiti and Eimeo; re-commence our voyage ; water spout ; severe gales of wind ; Magellanic clouds ; Martin Vass Island ; Trinidad ; arrival at New London. 372

PARKER'S TOUR.

Chapter I

The Tour commenced by way of Buffalo^ Erie and-Pittsburgh — passage to Cincinnati in the steam-boat Ohioan — the steam-boat takes fire— Cincinnati— Falls of the Ohio — the Ohio River — Ohio and Kentucky — confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers — Point Girardou — beautiful appearance of fire on the prairie— St. Genevieve, old custom — Herculaneum — gambling on board the steam-boats — St. Louis — Dr. M. Whitman — Mr. Tontenelle.

The wide extent of country beyond the Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains, with its inhabitants and physical condition, has been a subject of interesting enquiry for the last thirty years. Many things, relating to the possession of the country, its future probable importance in a political view, its population and trade, have occupied much attention. The Christian public have not been inattentive to the interests, moral and religious, of those whom the God of providence has placed in these remote regions, and who are without the blessings of civilization and Christianity. The American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions appointed an exploring mission to ascertain by personal observation, the condition of the country, and the character of the Indian nations and tribes, and the facilities for introducing the gospel and civilization among them.

18 PITTSBURGH.

That difficulties and dangers would be incident to a journey through a country of such extent, uninhabited except by wandering bands of Indians, where no provisions could be obtained besides uncertain game, could not be doubted. It was not a consciousness of undaunted courage, or indifference to suffering, or the love of romance, which fixed my purpose ; but it was the importance of the object. Although it was painful to bid adieu to family and friends, unapprised of the events of the future, yet committing all to the guidance and protection of an all-wise Providence, the enterprise was undertaken without reluctance, on the 14th of March, 1835. Pursuing the journey by the way of Buffalo and Erie, I arrived at Pittsburgh on the twenty-fifth. The intervening distance to St. Louis, through the great valley of the west, had lost much of its novelty, as I had previously passed over it, and .long since had it ceased to excite that degree of interest in the community, with which it was regarded before the numerous descriptions of the tourist and traveler had rendered its general features familiar. Only a passing notice, therefore, will be given.

Leaving Pittsburgh, which, from "its multiplied manufactories, may be styled the Birmingham of America, I took passage in the steam-boat Ohioan, for Cincinnati, four hundred and fifty miles distant, by the river. The scenery of the Ohio, as it pursues its meandering course to the Mississippi, presents a most beautiful variety of forests, and cultivated fields, and flourishing villages. On the 28th, we arrived at Cincinnati. The steam-boat on that day was discovered to be on fire in the hold, in which a large quantity of combustible goods were deposited. This created great alarm. A very strong head wind blew the fire from the furnace down the hatchway, which, after removing some goods, had been

CINCINNATI* 19

carelessly left -open. The captain immediately rounded the boat to the shore, and no sooner was it gained, than there was a general rush for safety. Some of the passengers threw out their baggage, and many leaped from the upper deck to the land. The fire, however, was subdued, and with considerable difficulty we disengaged the boat from its grounded position, and from the trees among which it was entangled, and we were again under way.

Cincinnati is. a large city for a country so new, and from its mature appearance would hardly be thought to have been the growth of only half a century. Its population, composed of emigrants from New England, the middle, and some of the southern states, and from various parts of Europe, is consequently not very homogeneous in its character. Its schools and institutions of literature, promise much for the great interests of science and religion in this interesting section of our growing country.

Here I exchanged my situation on board the Ohioan, for the Chien, Captain Reynolds, for St. Louis, which, by water is six hundred and ninety miles from Cincinnati. . On the 3,0th, we passed Louisville, near, whleh.are the. fells of the Ohio, twenty-two .feet in height, and 1 passable by boats only in high water, about two months in the year. To save the expense and, delay of portage around the falls, a canal has been constructed on the south side of the river, two miles in? length, fifty feet wide, and forty feet deep*

The water being high, we passed over the falls. It was a sublime scene. The water about Louisville moves slowly and smoothly ; but as you approach the falls', it increases in velocity and power. You soon find yourself in an irresistible current; and you are anxious to know whether your pilots are well skilled in their profession. You look at

20 THE OHIO RIVER — OHIO AND KENTUCKY.

them to see if they betray any fear ; you find, that while their attention is fixed, their countenances are serene. Your fears give way to emotions of the sublime. The boat shoots forward with amazing force and velocity, and very soon 5 r ou find yourself gliding along in the wide-spread calm below.

The Ohio is a noble river, affording in its whole course romantic and beautiful prospects. It flows in a smooth and easy current, and is diversified on every sid& with rich bottom land, rolling hills, and precipitous bluffs. These hills and bluffs, in many places, rise abruptly from the shore of the river, in other places they recede some miles, but in every part are in view ; and so varied is the scenery, that there is no weariness caused by monotony. No where has the hand of industry been wanting to add interest in passing through this part of the great western valley. Farms, and towns, and villages, exhibit the advantage that has been taken of the exuberance of the soil. The many swift-mo^ ving, panting steam-boats show that industry furnishes the means of wide-extended and profitable commerce. The striking difference in the taste and habits of the people inhabiting the two sides of the river, was here very apparent. Upon the Ohio side, the farms and neatly painted dwellings are in the New England style, while on the Kentucky side, scattered here and there, you see the large log houses of the planters in a grade of architecture considerably above the log cabins of their slaves, by which they are surrounded, yet log houses still. These are built two stories high, with a wide airy hall through the centre, one of the lower rooms being the parlor, and the other serves the several purposes of a nursery, sleeping and eating room. Open, frank hospitality characterizes the Kentuckian, which is pleasing to

CONFLUENCE OF OHIO AND MISSISSIPPI. 21

a stranger. I offered a lady in one of these mansions some tracts, which she at first declined with the enquiry, "Do you think we are heathen?" "No, madam; but tracts contain much that is interesting to all classes of people, and after they are read, can be circulated among those who may not be well supplied ' with books." I saw but very few houses of worship, except in villages.

On the first of April we passed out of the waters of the Ohio into those of the Mississippi. The Ohio spreads out into a narrow sea and meets the Mississippi in the same form. Both appear to expand themselves into their most majestic forms, as though each was making an effort to daim the superiority ; and when joined, they move on with united grandeur. We should expect, at the confluence of these two rivers, to find a business-going village, but instead of such a place, there is only a whiskey-selling tavern, sur* rounded by a few miserable huts.

To-day, a boy ten or twelve years old, playing about the machinery of the boat, was caught in it by the leg^ and had he not been immediately seized and extricated by two men standing by, must have been drawn wholly in and crushed to pieces. The bones were not broken, but the calf of the leg was distressingly mangled. There being no surgeon on board, I officiated in dressing his wounds.

Passed, on the second, Point Girardou, fifty miles above the mouth of the Ohio. It is pleasantly situated upon abluff on the west side of the Mississippi. ; It has a fine prospect of the river, and might, under the hand of industry, become a desirable place ; but the French Catholicsare not an enterprising people, and it has the appearance of

decay. We moved but slowly against the wind and currents

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22 PRAIRIES ON FIRE.

The fires of the prairies coming over the bluffs, presented a fine scene this evening. These bluffs are two hundred feet high, and extend one or two miles along the river. At a considerable distance they appeared like an illuminated city, but as we approached and had a nearer view, the illusion was dissipated. The fires had advanced nearly over the bluffs, and curtained them with a moderately ascending blaze, drawn up on the bluffs and let down in festoons in the ravines ; and the counterpart reflected from the smooth waters of the broad Mississippi, added much to the beauty and grandeur of the prospect.

We made a short stay on the third, at the landing of St. Genevieve. The village is situated a mile back from the river on the west side, and is inhabited almost entirely by French, who are slow to depart from the customs and manners established by their forefathers, who have long since passed away. To adopt new improvements would be a step next to giving up their catholic religion and turning infidel. It is amusing to see the manner in which they yoke their oxen, and to learn the reason they assign for so doing. The yoke is composed of a straight piece of wood, fastened to the back side of the horns by straps of leather. They say, that in this way, they save the whole power of the animal ; but that the yoke, bowed to the neck, and drawn back to the shoulder, loses the power of the head and neck. Their reasoning may satisfy themselves, but would not convince the thorough New England farmer.

To-day Herculaneum appeared in sight, which is situated on the west side of the river, thirty-five miles below St. Louis. It is almost surrounded by high precipitous hills, having only a narrow space for a village. There are several shottowers, placed on the brink of high bluffs, in which con-

GAMBLING. 23

siderable business is done . Large quantities of lead, brought from the mines, are sold and carried to distant markets.

In traveling upon these waters,, it is painful to see how few books of any value there are on board the steam-boats. Some novels are found, but the most of them are of a licentious character. Thousands of those who navigate these rivers are going to the judgment, regardless of the interests of their souls, and most of them are destitute of the Bible. It gave great offence to many, that we should have religious worship in the ladies' cabin, as we did by invitation. Complaints of obtrusion were made — " Obtruding religion — no place for such things." But profanity and gambling are no obtrusion ; they are always in time and always in place. Christians must keep religion out of sight and hearing, but the wicked may be as open and obtrusive as they please. Gambling is practiced on board the steam-boats upon these waters to a very great extent, and is a favorite amusement with those whose minds are not sufficiently cultivated to find satisfaction in reading, or intelligent conversation. The number of black-legs who make gambling their business is great ; they are adepts in their profession, and their success depends very much upon their skill in deception, and in decoying the inexperienced.

On the evening of the fourth, we arrived at St. Louis. This is a flourishing business place, situated on the west side of the Mississippi, two hundred miles above the mouth of the Ohio, and twenty miles below the mouth of the Missouri, and in its local position resembles Albany, N. Y. The ground ascends for about a half mile from the river, and then spreads out into a widely extended plain, partly covered with shrubbery, back of which are open prairies.

In the parts of the town built by the French, the streets

24 ST. LOUIS.

are narrow. This may have been to accommodate their propensity to be sociable, by- enabling them to converse from the windows across the streets. The French population, with few exceptions, are Roman Catholics, noted for their indolence and dissipation. Gambling is their favorite amusement ; and they have houses devoted to this object, with signs up, like those of whiskey venders. As gambling does not increase wealth, there are but few rich, enterprising men among the French population. Drunkenness is not common, and the temperance cause is doing much to remove what exists. Eastern enterprise and influence are gaining ground since the town has been brought under the laws of the United States ; and a new impulse is given to business. This is the central place in the west for the fur trade, which is carried on by the American Fur Company to a considerable extent; and also much business is done in lead, which is obtained at Galena. A great number of steam-boats and other water craft, of various descriptions and destinations, are seen here at all seasons of the year. Adventurers, of almost every description of character and nation, such as trappers, hunters, miners, and emigrants, collect here, as a starting point from whence to go into the still far west, many of whom seek a miserable fortune among the Rocky Mountains. The local situation of this town is such, that it will undoubtedly continue to be one of the first places for trade in the great valley of the Mississippi. There are five houses of worship, four Protestant and one Roman Catholic. The Catholic cathedral is built of a firm light brown sandstone, and is a large expensive building. The Protestant influence is increasing, and there are here many active, devoted Christians, who exert a salutary influence upon the town and vicinity. The population is fifteen thousand*