Incidents of a Whaling Voyage, etc

Preface

. DuaiNO the latter part of my collegiate course, my health became very much impaired by a chronic debility of the nervous system, and soon after graduating, the cold air of Autumn admonished me to seek a milder clime for spending the winter. While deliberating upon what would be most desirable in accomplishing the purposes I had in view, a favourable opportunity was offered me to go out as passenger in tbe whale ship " North America," which was fitting out at New London for a voyage to the Pacific. From an erro neous prejudice against whalers, it was with great reluctance that I determined upon embarking on this voyage, and many of my friends made sage predictions of the wretched life to which I was consigning myself. A strong inclination for the sea, however, which had made ships and the ocean my ad miration from boyhood, and a love ofthe adventurous, inclined me to a voyage in preference to any other plan for the recovery of my health ; and its successful results have left me no reason to repent of my choice.

With the exception ofthe interesting work by Beale, entitled " The Sperm Whale Fishery," I am not aware that any representations of whaling life have been exhibited proportionate to its adventurous character and importance. Entertaining sketches of the capture of the whale, have been written at different times ; but they are generally the productions of those who were not spectators ofthe scenes they attempt to delineate, and must, of course, be wanting in accuracy. I have endeavoured to represent sea-life as it is ; and should the reader, impatient to enter in medias res, think me tedious in get ting under weigh, I have only to plead that the facts were so; and similar de lays and vexations are believed to constitute a very ordinary part of sea-life. It has also been my constant endeavour throughout the narrative, to make a candid representation of occurrences, although I do not aspire to infallibility.

Some parts of my narrative may appear to be wanting in exciting incident. Bly object has indeed been, to lepresent life in a somewhat novel aspect, but not by a sacrifice of truth or by an exaggerated picture. The common inci dents of life, in their ordinary course, rarely exhibit much of the marvellous, and it is from tbe reality of their occurrence, in a great measure, that they excite permanent pleasure. A Blarryatt, by weaving together the events of several voyages, and colouring the tissue with all the vividness of a lively imagination, gives to his sea sketches a brilliancy whicii a strict adherence to the common course of events would have denied him. Some of the statistics of the Whale Fishery were gathered after my return, and have reference to a date subsequent to that of the journal where tbey are introduced.

This arrangement, although censurable as an anach ronism, is not deemed inconsistent with the nature of the work, and is thought preferable to multiplied notes. In conclusion, I have endeavoured to represent the sailor in a favourable light, and to excite the kindness and sympathy of the benevolent in his be half. If my efforts have been successful, and shall contribute to secure to the whaling business, that share of respectability wbich has been withheld from it through ignorance and prejudice, I shall esteem myself happy. New-Haven, August, 1841. F. A. 0. a CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Voyage to the Azores.— Embarkation— Man overboard — Superstition of Seamen in respect to sailing on Friday — Discouragement at the commencement of the voyage— Description of a whale boat and its appurtenances — Larboard and starboard watches — First aspect of the ocean — Gulf stream — Agale— Sufferings of an invalid on shipboard — Rainbows.

Chapter II

Fayal. — Arrival at Fayal — Appearance of the island — Situation ofthe town — Fortifications — Burdens carried by porters — Streets and buildings — Costumes of the different classes — Ladies of Fayal— Consul's gardens — Manufacture and exportation of wine — Casualties incident to the life of a whaler — Dinner at the Consul's — Supplies laid in at Fayal — Departure — Lunar bow.

Chapter III

Ship and Shipmates.— Ship " North America " — Government aboard ship — Method of ascertaining the Latitude and Longitude — Eccentricities of the cook — Amusements of the forecastle— Etiquette on board ship — Employments of the crew — Description of the several parts of the ship, and peculiarities in the construction of a whaler— Order and contentment of the crew — Library — Flying fish.

Chapter IV

Whaling Scenes.— Attack and capture of whales — General appearance of the sperm whale -Great size of the resperatory organs and vascular system— Sympathy of cetaceous animals for each other — Inaccurate representations of the whale — Nature of blubber — " Cutting in " — Perils attending the process — Spermaceti — " Trying out."

Chapter V

Crossing the Line.— Disagreeable and cruel tricks formerly practised on the " Greenhorn " — Ceremonies of initiation into the mysteries of Neptune — Novel and interesting aspect of the starry heavens in another hemisphere — Delightful weather — Phosphorescence of the sea.

Chapter VI

Cruise in the South Atlantic— Fall in with the " Messenger" of New Bedford — Sickness on board this ship — Medical practice of sea-captains— Fall in with the "Wiltlam and Eliza" — Social habits of whalers — Whaling scenes — Versatility of talent requisite for an accomplished seaman — Dress and manners of the crew — Mr. Freeman's soirees — Annoyances on shipboard— Christmas — Mechanical employments of the men.

Chapter VII

Approach to Cape Horn. — Gale of wind- Game of these seas — The porpoise — Turtle — Pilot fish — Sqaally weather — Preparations for doubling Cape Horn — Novel aspect ofthe diurnal revolutions, and of the celestial bodies in these high latitudes — Capture of Albatrosses — Preparations for the Cape.

Chapter VIII

Cape Horn. — Terra del Fuego — Patagonians —Straits of Magellan — Geographical position of Cape Horn — Dangers and difficulties of doubting the Cape— Capricious state of the elements — Huge sperm whale — The carrier Albatross — Perils of whaling — Sailors' songs.

Chapter IX

Hunting and Fishing Scenes.— Ambrose island — Immense flocks of birds — Greattishing — Capture of a fur seal — Sea birds— Capture of a black fish — Boat carried down by a whale.

Chapter X

The Whale Fisherv. — Early history of the whale fishery — Original method of attacking whales — Modern improvements in whaling — Implements — Enterprise of our ancestors in this line — Intripidity of whalers — Discoveries in distant regions — Benefits conferred by them on the Polynesian colonies and missionary establishments — Character of whalers, officers and crew.

Chapter XI

Varieties ofthe Whale. — The sperm whale — Spermaceti — Ambergris — Right whale — Size — Food — Fin-back whale — Difficulty of capture — Hump-back whale — Conflicts of whales with one another — Loss oi the whaler " Essex."

Chapter XII

Amusements anu Mode op Life on Shipboard. — Fishing — Mechanical employments —Bill of fare.

Chapter XIII

Cruise in the Pacific. — Perilous incidents of a whaler's life — Black-fish, capture , de- CONTENTS. 6 scription and habits — Squid or cuttle fish — Large schools of sperm whales — Terrific approach to the ship — Laws of whaling among the craft — Turtles — Brilliant phosphorescence.

Chapter XIV

Visit to Tacames.— Situation of Tacames — Interesting appearance of the vegetable kingdom —Tropical fruits — Landing in the surf — Density of the forests— An incident — Phosphorescence of fish after death— Carousals on shore.

Chapter XV

Voyage to the Sandwich Islands. — The Gallapagos IsUnds — Narrow escape from shipwreck— Steer for ihe Society Islands — Capture of a large whale— Mother Carey's, chickens — Peaked-nose shark — Leaky condition of the ship — Steer for the Sandwich Islands — Trade winds — Arrival at Oahu.

Chapter XVI

Sandwich Islands. — Seamen's chapel — Honolulu harbour — Fruits and vegetables— Appearance ofthe natives — Native dwell .i»5 — Police regulations — Fort— Governor Kekuanoa — Captain Brown — Foreign residents — Horses and vehicles.

Chapter XVII

Sandwich Islands —Valley of Nuanu— Taro Poi — Natives at work— Aquatic feats— An affecting incident— Native canoes— Commerce of the Hawaiian Inlands — Moving a house — Treatment of a lunatic — Native salutation — Chinese — Annoyances — Scorpions — Centipedes.

Chapter XVIII

Excursion to Hawah. --Brig" Clementine" — Romish priests — Accommodations on board— Kailua— Governor Adams— Style of his house— Cavern— Natives playing in the surf — Native church — Manufactory — Lodgings — Escape from shipwreck- -Shark catchers — Towaihae— Walk to Waimea— Spanish bullock hunteis— Mr. Lyons, missionary — Bullock hunting — Fate of Mr. Douglas- Spanish saddle— Return to Honolulu.

Chapter I

Friday, Oct. 11. The rattling of blocks and rigging, and the animated cries of the seamen, announced that the ship, " North America," was getting under weigh ; and soon the vessel, with her swelling sails distended by a gentle breeze, swung from her moorings. The wind was fair, and as we glided out of the beautiful harbour of New London, the clear air of the morning, the favouring breeze, and the bright sun mirrored in a thousand tiny waves, soon dispelled the gloom of parting from those I loved, and even inspired me with renovated spirits. The band ot the revenue cutter was going through its morning exercises, and I listened to the national airs it was performing, until growing fainter and fainter, they were lost in the distance. A new feeling of patriot ism was awakened within me; and these simple strains, that on ordinary occasions would scarcely have been heeded, were now associated with many endearing recollections, and invested with a melody and sentiment I had never before discerned in them.

Month after month will roll over me, ere I shall again hear the inspiring strains of *-** Hail Columbia, happy land," iu my own favoured country to which 1 am now bidding adieu— it may be for ever. But from the painful suggestions which now and then struggled to obtain possession of my mind, I turned with interest to the scenes as they opened before me in my new habitation, the first aspect of which was not the most favourable. The " North America" is a Temperance ship; that is, no ardent spirits are served out to the men on any occasion. This, however, does not preclude them from becoming intoxicated whenever an opportunity piesenis itself, which two or three of them, judging from appearances, would not be reluctant «o embrace. The prospect of a voyage of three or four years in length is an incentive to greater excess, while intoxicating liquors can be purchased to drown tlie unpleasant anticipations incidental to so long a separation from country and kindred.

Inebriety is by no means as prevalent among seafaring people as was formerly the case, since the abandon ment of the idea that intoxicating drinks are indispensable to the sailor. It has been within a few years only that the plan of sailing ships upon temperance principles, has come into extensive use; before this, if a master of a ship, in visiting another, declined a glass of spirits, his lefusal was regarded as an insult. Soon after the commencement of the tem perance reform, Major Williams, of New London, determined to lend tlie weight of his extensive influence in promoting temperance aboard the whale ships sailing out of this port, in which he was interested. His exertions, although meeting with great opposition at first, were successful— other influential men followed his example — and now, out of the thirty or forty whaling vessels belonging to the port of New London, almost all are navigated upon temperance principles.

To the credit of the American whale fishery, it ought to be added, that the proportion of vessels ot this character, is much greater in this service than in any other department of our marine. This afternoon as I was standing at the starboard gangway, watching the progress of the ship through the water, a sailor passed by me, and letting himself down the side of the ship by the chains, very deliberately threw himself overboard, and commenced swimming towards land, then distant three or four miles. " Man overboard ! — man overboard !" resounded from every part of the ship— a boat was lowered, manned, and put off to rescue him from a certain death. He swam very well, however, although encumbered with heavy woollen clothes, but was soon overtaken, hauled into the boat, and held down as he endeavoured to plunge into the sea again.

After a change of clothes, he was put into his beith, with some one to watch him, lest he should make another attempt to leave the ship. This man ie a boat-steerer, (a grade of petty officers aboard a whaler, about whom I shall speak more particularly by-and-by) and a first-rate seaman, who had been to sea all his life-time, and had seen all kinds of service. For a week or two before the sailing of the " North American," he was constantly in toxicated, and this insane attempt to leave the ship, was owing to the maddening and stu pifying effects of constant inebriety.* The wind, which during the day hardly moved the ship through the water, as evening came on, veered ahead. A head tide also opposed our progress, and as the sky towards the south-east looked lowering, with some in dications of a gale, it was thought advisable to return.

The ship's head was soon pointing towards New London, distant about twelve miles, and we came to anchor two or three miles from the shore, where we lay during the night. Early on Saturday morning, as the wind continued to increase from tlie south-east, we hauled-in opposite the light-house. Sunday, Oct. 13. Soon after the ship was moored, yesterday, I went ashore with Cap tain Richards and the pilot, where we remained until this morning, when at an early hour we were summoned on board ship, as the weather seemed favourable for going to sea. But our expectations are disappointed, and here we lie without breeze enough to carry us out, while a damp atmosphere and cloudy sky, render our situation extremely dismal. It is the Sabbath too, and while the solemn tones of the distant church-bell should awaken emotions befitting the day, our own unpleasant situation engrosses all our attention; and in stead of occupying our minds with the solemn duties of the Sabbath, we are watching the clouds for indications of fair weather.

Monday, Oct. 14. " Boat ahoy!" hailed the officer of the deck, as a boat was seen coming down to us, rowed by two boys, carrying a large bag in the bow of their tiny craft, intended for the ship. We were endeavouring to divine the contents of it, which were supposed to be of a highly valuable character, from the important air exhibited by the boys. The bag was hoisted upon deck and opened, when out jumped an old cat and her numerous progeny, that ran squalling around the deck to our surprise and diversion. Cats are con sequential personages on board, as they protect us from the depredations of hugh cock-roaches that swarm in every direction. I found one of these erratic black-legs the other day up in the main-top, wandering about very much at his lei sure. Captain R., a few days ago,in speakingof the good qualities of the " North America," said that " she waB built entirely of live oak," which subsequent observations have fully verified.

Last evening, the clouds for a short time dispersed, and the stars and the moon beaming forth, seemed to promise a favourable change in * He afterwards became a very good friend of mine, and gave me a variety of information about ships, aud " spun me many a yarn" of his adventures at sea. the weather. Not long after, however, the Bky was again overcast, and before morning, an easterly storm came pattering down upon deck, with the gloomy prospect of another dismal day. If I had not Btarted with a good resolution to be disconcerted by nothing that might happen, I should by this time have been tempted to give up au enterprise so inau spiciously begun. " So much for sailing on Friday," an old seaman would say. There has been a singular superstition prevalent among sailors about sailing on Friday; and in former times, to sail on this day, would have been regarded as a violation of the mysterious character of the day, which would be visited with disaster upon the offender.

Even now it is not entirely abandoned ; and if a voyage, commenced on Friday, happens to be unfor tunate, all the ill-luck of the voyage is ascribed to having sailed on this day. An intelligent ship-master told me, that although he had no faith in this superstition, yet so firmly were sailors formerly impressed wilh superstitious notions, respecting this day, that until within a few years, he should never have ventured to sail on Friday, for the men would be appalled by dangers which they would think lightly of on common occasions, and their efforts would be paralyzed by tbeir imaginary fears of being under a mysterious and malignant influence. I have been told, that several years ago, a ship was built and sent to sea, to test this superstition, and convince the crew of its folly. The keel of the ship was laid on Friday ; on Friday her masts were set; she was com pleted on Friday, and launched on this day.

Her name was " Friday," and she was sent to sea on Friday ; but unfortunately for the success of the experiment, was never heard of more. As knowledge advances, all opinions not consonant with reason must be abandoned, and this superstition is fast losing its hold on the minds of seafaring men, especially since the establishment of the packet lines, aud thc frequent necessity of sailing on Friday. It had its origin, I am told, in the ancient custom of executing criminals upon this day, which im parted to it an unlucky character. I have also heard it ascribed to a connection with some of the observances of the Roman Catholic Church, which entertainssome peculiar notions with regard to this day. Tuesday, Oct. 15. Rain— rain — rain— with a raw wind from the north-east — cold and cheerless on deck — damp and dismal in the cabin.

For our encouragement, the barometer, which for the last three days has been con tinually falling, is now rising, indicative of fair weather. This morning, hearing an unusual noise upon deck, I ran up the companion-way, and, at the distance of thirty or forty yards from the ship, saw one of the men making desperate efforts to reach the shore by swimming. One of the boats had just been lowered — pursuit was instantly made, and the man with but little resistance, was secured and brought on board, crest-fallen enough, in his dripping clothes, wilh his shoes tied round his neck. " Come here," said the commanding officer, (the Becond mate) in an authoritative tone. " Well, you were going to leave us in the lurch, were you?" '* Why, sir, Mr. L (the first mate, who was ashore) told mo I might go ashore with him, and he went off without me."

"And so you thought you'd work to windward of us in this way, eh_" " Why, sir, I thought he didn't do what was right." " You thought? Well, I'll tell yon what / think, and I'll inform you in the most delicate manner, Ihat if you show any more of such fandangoes here, you'll be clapped down into the lower hold, sir, with some irons around your wrists, that don't look quite so pretty as ladies' bracelets neither — bear that in mind, and be off sir." The crew, though very quiet in general, are beginning to show signs of impatience, and if there are no indi cations of fair weather at sunset, an attempt will undoubtedly be made to desert during the night. With the few exceptions I mentioned before, they are very temperate, and I have heard but little bad language or profanity on board, both of which are prohibited by the captain.

Captain R. left ns last Sunday evening, and has not yet returned. I should have accompanied him up to town, were it not that I had already bidden my friends " good-bye" three times, and did not like to impair the virtue of the" Farewell" by repetition, Wednesday, Oct. 16. Yesterday afternoon the clouds began to break away, and tbe sun shone forth to gladden us after a long absence 5r his cheering beams. The moon, too, favoured - .___■* evening with her kindly radiance, and lo 1 paced the deck, musing on the reality of the enterprize in which 1 had embarked. When we are preparing for along voyage, we talk of separation from home, kindred, and country, with a kind of vagueness as if it would never be realized ; but when we have actually embarked, and there is no return, then the reality comes vividly to mind, and impresses us with the magnitude of the enterprise ; while the uncertainties of the future forbid our anticipating its termination.

The future tome is more than ordinarily uncertain. To picture to myself my various wanderings over the mighty ocean, in accommodating myself to the erratic life I have now chosen, and after leaving my present shipmates to tiaceoutmycircuitouscourseback to my native land, is beyond the reach of mortal ken, and were a vain attempt. And there are solemn musings too. Ere I return, the irrevocable hand of death may invade the home of my youth and the circle of kindred friends, and consign one or more to the grave! Ah! these are the saddest thoughts, that press like an incubus upon the spirits of the voyager as he leaves his native shores. Early this morning, the captain came on board. The ship was " hove short"— the sails were loosened— the top-sails sheeted home — the anchor weighed and catted, and we were standing out of our anchorage, lt was a lovely morning.

The sun just emerging behind the long line of hills that bound the eastern side of New London harbour, wa_ fringed with the light fog that floated down the river, tinged with his golden rays. With the Ught wind that fanned our sails, we glided slowly along over the smooth waters of the sound, and by noon, having passed through "The Race,"* were directing our course towards Montauk Point. Thursday, Oct. 17. The wind has been light and baffling since yetterday. This noon there was a perfect calm, and upon the eighth day from our first settjtag sail from New Lon don, we find ourselves at anchor off Montauk Point, to prevent being drifted ashore, instead of tossing about on the Atlantic, one-third of the way across. All hands have been engaged in various duties about the ship, such as over hauling the spare canvass, and stowing away articles more compactly.

The boats, too, have been put in complete order, to be in readiness for the first opportunity that presents itself for using them, and although it may be a deviation from the plan I have adopted, I cannot do better, perhaps, than to describe the whale boat and its various appurtenances. The whale boat is a narrow, light-built boat, of about twenty-five feet in length, sharp at both ends, with its sides gracefully curved and running up to a point fore and aft, and from its construction, is expressly adapted to great velocity of motion and safety among the swelling billows of the ocean. Unlike most ships' boats, it is clinker built, as this peculiar mode of construction is called, i.e, the thin boards that cover the ribs overlap one another, thus giving strength to the boat and enabling it to be made much lighter.

Each boat is fitted with six oars of various lengths. The steering oar, usually from twenty to twenty-two feet long, is confined to the boat by a strap passing around it and attached to the sternpost. This gives the helmsman great power over the movement of the boat, far superior to the steering with a rudder. The ihole pins, between which the oarB are plied, are covered with matting, so as to pre vent any noise in the motion of the oars. Of the offensive weapons, the harpoon is the most important. * That part of Long Island Sound between Fisher's Island and Gull Island, is called "The Race," on account of the velocity of the tides between these islands. The harpoon is an iron instrument, about four feet in length, terminated at one end in a sharp barbed head, and at the other, in a socket for receiving the " iron pole," a heavy wooden handle of about equal length, which gives to the instrument great momentum.

A strap with a turn around the socket of the iron secures it upon the pole. To the strap is attached the tine, a strong rope about two hundred fathoms long, which is carefully coiled up in a tub placed in the afterpart of the boat; and going around the " loggerhead," a strong post projecting above the stern, passes through a *' chock" or grove in the bow of the boat, and is " bent on" to the harpoon. Each boat usually carries four or five harpoons, two of which are always ready for immediate use when the boat is in pursuit of whales. Their barbed heads lie across the bow of the boat, with their shafts resting upon two "crotches" or spurs, standing out from a stick rising from the side of the boat This position gives steadi ness to the weapon, and it is close at hand whenever opportunity offers for using it.

The lance is two or three feet longer than the harpoon. Its head is of an oval shape, pointed with steel, and its shaft is long and slender, with the " warp," a small line about eight fathoms long, attached to the extremity of it. ' The spade is a short instrument, with a thin, wide blade set upon a light shaft of five or six feet in length. These instruments are ground to a very keen edge, and kept consiantly bright. Their sharp heads are enclosed in sheaths, to defend them from injury, as also to prevent their doing any mischief. A hatchet, a couple of knives, a water-keg, a lantern, and a boat compass, together with one or moie buckets, complete the equipment of a boat. Six men constitute a boat's complement. Of these, the captain or one of his mates is one, who directs the attack upon the whale.

There is also a subordinate officer, called boat steerer, who performs the duties of a cockswain, taking care of the boat with its appurtenances. To each man is assigned an oar and a station in the boat to avoid any confusion when starting in pursuit of a whale. In attacking the whale, the captain or one of his officers takes the steering oar, and directs the boat in the onset. The boat-steerer pulls the short oar in the bow of the boat, and at a signal or command from the officer, draws in his oar, and taking his stand firmly in the bow, when the word is given darts the harpoon with all his strength into the whale. Sometimes lie is so successful as to fix both irons, which generally ensures the capture ofthe struggling monster. He now exchanges places with the officer, and takes the steering oar, while the latter comes forward to thrust the lance into the vitals of the whale whenever he comes up to blow, a feat requiring no ordinary dexterity.

Tbe moment the whale begins to slacken the line to which he is " fast," it is hauled in, and coiled up carefully in the tub, while the boat is drawn towards the whnle, as he comes on top of water, when he receives several thrusts of the lance in succession, which often enters to the depth of several feet. When the animal is very violent in his movements, a few strokes of the spade across the sinews of his flukes, disable these his most powerful weapon of defence and motion. The line is confined to the grove in the bow of the boat by a wooden peg, which breaks in case the line becomes entangled, thus averting the ex treme danger of being instantly carried down. Thus much for the description of the whale boat at present, which in grace and velocity of motion, is not excelled by any ship's boat.

On board of all vessels, the men are separated into two divisions, called the larboard and starboard watches. The first and third mates command the larboard watch, and the second mate commands the starboard watch. This morning, the crew were all summoned upon the quarter deck, and the first and second mate selected, alternately, the members of their respeciive watches. The captain and each of the officers, in a similar manner, in the order of rank, then made choice of the required number for the boat he commanded. Friday, Oct. 18. Last evening, the ship was again under weigh, and at sunrise this morning, land was nowhere visible. There was scarcely breeze enough to steady the ship, while as far as the eye could reach, not an object presented itself to break thc monotony of the ocean wilh its ceaseless undulations, or to impair the emotions of sublimity with which vastness of extent impressed me, as I scanned with eager eye, the uninterrupted curveof the hoiizon.