Travels in Kordofan : embracing a description of that province of Egypt, and of some of the bordering countries, with a review of the present state of the commerce in those countries, of the habits and customs of the inhabitants, as also an account of the slave hunts taking place under the...

Front matter

TRAVELS IN KORDOFAN. TRAVELS IN KORDOFAN; EMBRACING A DESCRIPTION OF THAT PROVINCE OF EGYPT, AND OF SOME OF THE BORDERING COUNTRIES, WITH A REVIEAV OF THE PRESENT STATE OF THE COMMERCE IN THOSE COUNTRIES, OF THE HABITS AND CUSTOMS OF THE INHABITANTS, AS ALSO AN ACCOUNT OF THE SLAVE-HUNTS TAKING PLACE UNDER THE GOVERNMENT OF MEHEMED ALI. riY IGNATIUS PALLME. FROM NOTES COLLECTED DURING A RESIDENCE OF NEARLY TWO YEARS IN KORDOFAN. LONDON: J. MADDEN AND CO., 8, LEADENHALL STREET. 1844. London : Printed by S. & J. Bektley, Wilson, and Fley, Baugor House, Shoe Lane.

Preface

. Toavards the close of the year 1837 I undertook, at the request of a friend, a journey into the most distant portion of the countries under the govern ment of the Viceroy of Egypt, in order to collect information referring to commerce, but more especially with the view of convincing myself whether trade might be carried on with these countries directly, instead of through the intermediation of agents, in whose hands it had hitherto rested. The task, although rather arduous, was not displeasing to me, for a residence of several years in Egypt had rendered me tolerably proficient in the Arabic language and colloquial dialect, and my prior tra vels in various parts of the Soudan had made me familiar with the habits of the natives, besides VI

PREFACE.

. procuring me the acquaintance of many merchants from the more distant proA'inces. With these ad vantages I travelled during nineteen months in all directions through these countries. Whilst on my journey, or sojourning in any place, I noted doAvn in my journal everything that appeared to me remarkable, AA'hich I laid before my friends for their amusement on my return. It is Avith their advice, and more particularly at the instigation of the celebrated French traveller Antoine d'Abbadie, that the information I AA'as able to collect respecting a country of Avhich so little AA'as formerly known, iioav appears in print. My journey was strictly mercantile in its tendency ; I cannot, there fore, A'enture on so explicit a description as might be expected of a traveller or a man AA-ell A'ersed in the various sciences a traA-eller should profess, and yet I am not altogether diffident, inasmuch as I think that my small contribution will at least form a short guide for those who may be Avilling to ex plore these countries more fully hereafter, as it will give them many a hint before they reach these climes, Avhich will save them much trouble and inconvenience during their residence in Kordofan. Although tAvo distinguished German travellers, Br.

PREFACE.

. VII Rueppel and the Conseillier des Mines, Russegger, have visited the country before me, their sojourn there AA'as of such short duration, and they travelled in so much company, that many things must have escaped their observation, and remained hidden from them, which Avere revealed to me, who, defy ing every species of danger, Avandered through the proA'ince alone, under a variety of circumstances, sometimes accompanied by one solitary servant, and sometimes even Avithout thus much protection. Thus I have often shared the humble fare of a camel-driA'er in the desert, or conversed Avith the natives in their damp and obscure Tukkoli ; Avhilst at other times I have enjoyed the opportunity of gaining information from the governor and higher officials, to AA'hose feasts I Avas frequently invited.

My readers must excuse me if, in the perusal of this small Avork, they meet with a deficiency of much information generally expected from a tra- A-eller, for I repeat again that I did not undertake this journey Avith the vieAV of Avriting, but that I Avrote merely at the request of my friends, and be cause I thought that by lifting the veil of obscurity from certain relations, I might in some measure become useful to futurity, and in this respect I Vlll

PREFACE.

. have already met with a few grateful acknoAvledg ments. I shall, therefore, send this little book into the world with confidence, assured that it Avill find a considerate reception, and that its deficiencies will be placed to the account of the circumstances under which it was produced. The Author. Cairo. TRANSLATOR'S

PREFACE.

. Ignatius Pallme, a Bohemian by birth, it would appear, undertook the journey to Kordofan, on commission, for a mercantile establishment at Cairo, in the hope of discovering new channels of traffic Avith Central Africa. In the pursuit of his object, he sojourned longer in the country than any Euro pean before him ; the information he furnishes respecting the present state of this province of Egypt in particular, and of the Belled Soudan in general, may, therefore, be considered the most anthentic in existence at the present time. That few travellers have visited these countries, and subjected the information they were enabled to collect to print, may be deduced from the facts, that scarcely one half of the places mentioned in the work before us are to be found on the most recent maps ; and that in referring to the literature on these countries, for making a comparison between Pallme's opinions X translator's preface. and those of other authors, many difficulties were experienced, and many researches proA'ed ungrati fied.

The original is characterised by an ingenuous and unassuming style ; and it has been my chief endeaA'Our to paraphrase the text as closely as com patible with the two languages. Those idiomatic constructions Avhich may be met Avith in the trans lation, are OAving to this strict adherence to the original ; but I have at least the consolation of knowing that the loss by solecism may be considered as gain in authenticity — the chief object of the undertaking. Pallme's orthography has been generally folloAved as regards Arab terms, excepting Avhere the same Avords are familiar to the public in a different garb, or where they are to be found otherwise spelt, in at least two accredited English authors ; for it was impossible to furnish the cer tain literation, as the Arab character is not affixed to the original text.

The Translator. London, May 1st, 1844. CONTENTS. Chap, page I. Position of the Country ; Borders, Rivers, Soil, and Climate .... 1 II. History . . . . .11 III. Government. .... 27 IV. Habits and Customs . . . .44 V. Character of the People . . . 107 VI. The Bakkara. (Nomadic Tribes.) . . 118 VII. The Kubbabeesh . . . . 132 VIII. Dar-Hammer . . . . .14. IX. Tribes bordering on Kordofan, Shilluk, Nuba, Takele, etc. . . . . 147 X. Religion . . . . .184 XI. Diseases . . . . . 192 XII. The Troops . . . . .199 XIII. Products . . . . . 217 XIV. The Capital of Kordofan ; Lobeid . . 258 XV. Commerce . . . . . 279 XVI. Mehemed Ali's Slave-hunts in general . . 305 XVII. Description of a Slave-hunt in the years 1838 and 1839 ..... 326 XVIII. Information concerning the Course of the Bahr- Abiad (White Nile). — Antiquities of Kordofan. — Bandanianiam . . . 345 XIX. On the kingdom of Darfour . . .350 TRAVELS IN KORDOFAN, etc.

Chapter I. Position Of The Country

', BORDERS, RIVERS, SOIL, AND CLIMATE. Kordofan, one of the most southern provinces under the government of the Viceroy of Egypt, extends in the north from Haraza to Kodero, in the south from the Nuba mountains, and eastwards from Caccia to the Shilluk or Shillook* mountains, about four degrees of longitude. The desert of Dongola forms its northern border, that of Darfur its western limit. Towards the south, no definite confines can be described, as the extent of these dominions increases or decreases accordingly as the inhabitants of this part of the country become tributary, either by their own free-will, or are rendered subjects by force, as occasionally occurs, and subsequently free themselves from the yoke. On this account the present goA'ernment has divided the country into five districts, and regards Kodero, and the free heathen Nuba, as its southern border. * The Rev. J. Russell's Nubia and Abyssinia, p. 179. — Tr.

B BORDERS. Kordofan has no toAAiiships on the Bahr-Abiad, or White Nile, for the village nearest to this river is situate at a distance of about four hours' march from its banks. The Nomadic tribes, inhabiting the western shore, belong to the realms of Sennaar, and are entirely distinct from the natiA'es of Kordo fan ; the Bakara-Kubbabeesh * only, a Nomadic tribe, also, frequently driA'e their herds to the borders of the White RiA'er for pasturage. The fiA'e districts are named severally : Korci, Bara, Ketshmar, Abou-Haraz, and Dayara. Each of them is go verned by a Casheff, or captain of the district, who is at the same time captain in a regiment of the line. Taking a general vieAV of Kordofan, it may be said to consist chiefly of a cluster of small and large oases, which are not far distant from each other, as in the Great Desert.

The soil is sandy throughout, and the country is rather flat than mountainous. In the A'icinity of Haraza, howeA'er, a chain of mountains arises, sheh'ing off tOAvards the White River ; while the mountains in the interior are inconsiderable, several of AA'hich may be seen tOAvards the south and south-east. The soil is, on the whole, very fertile; for, with the commencement of the rainy season, vegetation springs up from the earth as if by magic, and nature then shoAvs herself in her full vigour and pomp; balsamic odours, which act almost intoxicatingly on the senses, are everywhere breathed forth, and the traveller might imagine * A pastoral race. RIVERS. himself transplanted into the fairy gardens of the Arabian Nights' tales. Kordofan has no flowing rivers ; during the rainy season, some few running streams are formed, but these dry up as quickly as they appear.

There are several lakes, or large ponds, in the country, amongst Avhich those at Arat, Birget,* Ketshmar, and Caccia, are the most considerable ; in the lat ter, many leeches are found ; but the other stagnant waters, which are generated during the rainy sea son, quickly evaporate, and only those above-named contain water throughout the year. In the vicinity of Haraza, in a north-easterly direction from the village, pure and fresh water for drinking is found on the summit of a mountain during the whole year. There is an abundance of iron ore in the province, respecting AA'hich more explicit information may be gleaned from the Avork of Russegger, the Royal Im perial inspector of mines, who, in the year 1837, tra velled through this country as far as Sheibon, to which book I must refer my readers, as geognostic research was not the purpose of my travels.

The climate is very unhealthy, especially during the rainy season ; no hut is then, indeed, to be met with in which there are not at least several sick ; in the dry season, again, all disease disappears ; at this time, however, not only man, but all living creatures, suffer from the extreme heat. The eye then rests with melancholy on the desolate and parched plains, — * Birket, as found on the maps of Arrowsmith. b trophies of the victory of the heat over animated na ture, — where nothing is to be seen but bones of men and animals bleached by the burning sun. During the whole of this season, Avhich endures about eight months, the sky is clear and cloudless, and the heat is insupportable, especially in the months of April and May. From eleven o'clock, a.m., to three, p.m., when the thermometer stands in the shade at 38°, or even at 40°, Reaumur (117° to 122° Fahrenheit), it is impossible for any breathing creature to remain in the open air.

Every living being, both men and cattle, AA'ith equal eagerness seek the shade, to pro tect themselves from the scorching rays of a fierce sun. Man sits during these hours as if in a vapour bath, his cheerfulness of disposition declines, and he is almost incapable of thought ; listless, and with absence of mind, he stares vacantly before him, searching in vain for a cool spot. The air breathed is hot as if it proceeded from a heated furnace, and acts in so enervating a manner on the animal economy, that it becomes a trouble even to move a limb. All business ceases, eA'erything is wrapped in a sleep of death, until the sim gradually sinks, and the cool air recalls men and animals again into life and activity. The nights, on the other hand, are so sharp, that it is necessary to be more careful in guarding against the effects of cold in this coun try, than in the northern parts of Europe during the severest Avinter, for the consequences frequently prove fatal.

During the whole year, day and night are equally divided, or with but imperceptible variation, and, as in all tropical climates, there is no twi light ; for with sunset night begins. During the dry season, everything in nature appears desolate and dismal ; the plants are burnt up ; the trees lose their leaves, and appear like brooms ; no bird is heard to sing ; no animal delights to disport in the glad ness of its existence ; every living being creeps to- Avards the forest to secrete itself, seeking shelter from the fearful heat ; save that, now and then, an ostrich will be seen traversing the desert fields in flying pace, or a giraffe hastening from one oasis to another. In this season, hoAvever, frightful hurri canes occasionally arise, and fill the minds of those, Avho have not been witness of such a phenomenon in nature before, with the utmost consternation.

A powerful current of air, of suffocating heat, bloAvs fiercely from one point of the heavens to the other, deA'astating eA'erything that lies in its course. The atmosphere bears at these times generally a leaden grey appearance, and is impregnated with fine sand : the sun loses its brilliancy, and total darkness enve lopes the earth, rendering it eA'en difficult to distin guish objects at a few paces distant. The sky changes suddenly, becomes of a yelloAv colour, then assumes a reddish hue, and the sun appears as a blood-red disk. The AA'ind howls, tears up everything Avithin its reach ; houses, fences, and trees by the roots, carrying them away with it; levels mounds of sand, and piles up fresh hills. In short, the devastation caused by a hurricane of this kind is beyond description. Unfortunate, indeed, is he who happens to be overtaken in the desert by one of these storms.

There is no course left for him to save himself, but to throw himself with his face on the ground, in order to avoid suffocation by the pressure of the atmosphere. Respiration is totally impeded ; all the fibres are tightly contracted ; the chest threatens to burst for want of pure air ; and a man of rather weak constitution, overtaken by one of these hurricanes in the open air, generally suc cumbs. But robust men, even those in full vigour of life, feel depressed in every limb for several hours after exposure to these storms, and recover but slowly, and by degrees. Animals fly and endeavour to conceal themselves ; every creature, in fact, seeks a place of shelter. The camels on journeys indicate the storm before it breaks forth by an un steadiness of gait, and by drooping their heads to- Avards the ground.

A no less remarkable phenomenon is the Mirage, i. e. the appearance of seas and rivers, supposed to be observed in the middle of the desert, but which, in fact, are only represented to the eye in this de ceptive manner by a rising vapour, and the reflec tion of the sun. The sensation is indescribable, of descrying at the distance large rivers and lakes, after having travelled for several tedious days through the desert, where nothing is to be seen but sand and heaven, as but water and sky on the high seas. and at a time, moreover, when the traveller is longing after Avater. We Avish for Avings, to be able to reach the element of which we have been so long deprived as quickly as possible. We de light in the idea of inA'igorating the exhausted and enei-A-ated body by a bath, and the eye is continually bent upon this pleasing object.

But what is our disappointment, — hoAv are the spirits depressed, — when, notwithstanding these ardent Avishes, on our approach, the lakes and rivers, wliich Ave had discerned at the distance, are resolved, in the literal sense of the Avord, into thin air ; and when we find, in lieu of Avater, the sand as hot and dry as in the place we had just left ! When the traveller has frequently observed this phenomenon, and accus tomed himself to it, he will be pleased with the image AA'hich diverts his eye, and will look upon it as a A'ariation in the scene. These aerial phenomena are called in the country, Bahr-el-Ghazal, or Gazelle Rivers, probably because, like these animals, they disappear as soon as seen. The rains begin in the month of June, and termi nate Avith the month of October. Those who have not spent this season in a tropical country, can form no idea of the showers which then drench the earth.

The storms generally arise in the east or in the south. A small black cloud is, at first, perceived on the horizon, Avhich increases as it approaches, spreads in a few minutes, Avith incredible velocity, over the Avhole region, and then descends. A fearful storm noAv rages : flash upon flash, and peal suc ceeding peal, the lightning illumines the whole heavens, and the thunder rolls most fearfully, as if the sky were about to open and the earth to burst ; streams of water pour doAvn AA-ith violence, which the soil is incapable of imbibing, and torrents are thus formed, destined, however, soon to be lost in the sands. Showers of this description generally last over one quarter of an hour, seldom for a longer period, and very rarely, indeed, are they repeated on the same day. They remit frequently during two, three, or eA'en six days, and this is the most unhealthy, and even dangerous time both for strangers and natives ; but it is admitted by general consent, that those of white colour suffer more than the blacks.

As if by magic, Nature now awakes from her sleep of death ; for, immediately after the first shower, the earth is clad with verdure, the trees shoot forth fresh buds, and a vesture of flowers is spread over the whole country. Certain districts of Kordofan, whose position is not elevated, may, indeed, be compared Avith Paradise. Everything there appears in most per fect luxuriance. All the trees and bushes are covered with floAvers and fruit, so that the leaA'es are scarcely discernible. The grass attains a height sufficient to cover a rider and his horse. Creeping plants wind themselves up to the summit of the highest trees ; in short, the force and vigour of vegetation is everyAA'here demonstrated. As the eye is delighted by the diversity of the magnificent floAA'ers, so it is also gratified by the varieties of colours displayed in the plumage of the parrots, colibris, and other feathered inhabitants of the de sert and the gardens, animating the trees Avith their gorgeous plumes, and enchanting the ear Avith their delightful song ; melodious and charming notes re sound, as if in emulation, from the various branches, and I could almost have forgotten the song of the lark and the nightingale of my OAvn beloved coun try.

But these silvery notes are not of long dura tion ; the song is too sweet to last for a long time. It begins as the first dawn of morning removes the veil of night, increases as the light extends ; but when the sun arises above the horizon of the desert, or gilds the mountains Avith his rays, one warbler after the other becomes mute, and single notes are only heard. Now appear a swarm of butterflies and beautiful insects, delighting the eye with the same change of gorgeous colours. Giraffes, ante lopes, and other animals, browse upon the plains in the full enjoyment of life. But all these charms soon disappear, for, under the operation of the un healthy climate, all cheerfulness of spirits fades in opposition to the resolute efforts of the will, and anxiety befalls man and robs him of all his rest.

Debility of stomach, nausea, disinclination for food, in short, all the precursory symptoms of disease, deprive him of every enjoyment which the beauties of nature might afford ; and, in a short time, he is stretched upon the bed of sickness, from which no stranger is entirely exempt ; thus, of all the Euro peans who have visited these regions, and sojourned there for any time, but very few have escaped vvith their lives, as far as our observations at present reach ; for the miasmata with which the air is im pregnated, arising from the morasses, the unwhole some water, the damp south winds, penetrating to the very nerves, all co-operate to wear out the thread of life ; and every one hastens, if it be, in deed, in his power, to quit this unhealthy climate as quickly as he possibly can. Do not imagine that the shoAvers clear the atmosphere, as is the case in Europe, for they are immediately folloAved by in tense heat, which, during my residence in the coun try attained a degree of 30° R.=99° Fahrenheit.

December and January are the most healthy months, but the nights are then so cold that the thermometer frequently falls to 8°, or even 4° R., (50° or 41° F.,) especially shortly before sunrise. This rapid change from the extremes of heat and cold, and the pernicious vapours, are very deleterious in their effect on the constitution of man, especially on the health of strangers coming from the northern districts of Egypt or from Europe ; and, indeed, feAv men can ever totally accommodate themselves to this climate. HISTORY.

Chapter II. History

Every one will agree that it is no easy matter to AA'rite the history of a country, or, rather, of a province, AA'hose inhabitants live in a state of utter ignorance, and care little for the occurrences Avhich took place but half the period of the life of man before them. There exist, moreover, no chronicles capable of giving information on any event which might serve as reference ; thus I was unable to ex tend my researches, or to learn more than was com municated to me by a faquir,* seventy-eight years of age, who appeared to me worthy of belief, and Avho had been an eye-witness of all the recent events. Kordofan takes its name from a mountain, situate at three and a half hours' march to the south east of Lobeid. The aborigines are negroes from Nubia, Avho, even at the present time, inhabit many parts of Kordofan.

The word Kordofan itself is of Nubian derivation. Three tribes subsequently immigrated : the Hadejat, el Giomme, and Bederie. * A hermit, and also a schoolmaster. HISTORY. The period of this immigration, hoAvever, cannot be definitely determined. These three nomadic tribes distributed themseh'es over the country round about Mount Kordofan, occupied themselves with cattle breeding, and each tribe had its sheikh, or magis trate ; but from these three tribes, collectively, a head AA'as chosen, who acted as impartial judge in all ques tions of difficulty, and, in fact, as the last authority. This people became, toAA'ards the middle of the last century, better acquainted with Sennaar. The King of Sennaar, namely, sent, in the year 1779, the Sheikh Nacib, Avith two thousand cavalry, to take possession of the country, and the tribes surrendered, with a pretty good grace, to their fate, without offering much resistance.

Thus they remained for about five years, under the government of Sennaar. A Melek AAas instituted, and the people felt themseh'es happy under his government. Several Arab tribes, and people from Sennaar and Dongola, immigrated into the country, and agriculture and commerce began to flourish. Darfour noAv directed its attention to- AA'ards this province, and entered on a campaign, in which the Melek-el-Hashma AAas driven out of Sennaar, and expelled the country for ever. Me leks now governed this country in the name of the Sultan of Darfour, up to the year 1821, during thirty five years of the reign of Mehemed Ibn Fadels. During this epoch the country was also prosperous ; the inhabitants lived in peace, and were not trou bled with taxes ; the merchants were exempt from HISTORY. all duties, and the tribute paid Avas a voluntary pre sent to the Sultan of Darfour.

Bara, the second commercial town of importance in the country, Avas built by the Dongolavi ; tribes immigrated from the most distant parts, and this province enjoyed a high degree of prosperity, under the really mild government of Darfour. Commerce extended in all directions ; caravans brought the produce from Abyssinia, the interior of Africa, and from Egypt, into the tAvo towns of Lobeid and Bara, whence the greater part was again transported into other countries. Abundance might be said to reign everywhere, and there was no want of any necessaries, whilst all were wealthy, and even the women of the less ojiulent inhabitants wore golden rings in their noses and ears, and many even golden bracelets and silver anklets round their feet. No other metal but gold or silver was to be seen in the decoration of the women, and many female slaves even wore gold about their persons.

Agriculture and cattle-breeding flourished, and there were few inhabitants in the country who did not, to a certain extent, devote themselves to commerce. The whole population, in fact, lived free from care, and was wealthy ; singing and dancing resounded from place to place ; in short, this was the golden age of Kordofan. This state of happiness AA'as not, however, of long duration, for in the year 1821 Mehemed Ali sent his son-in-laAv, the notorious Defturdar, with a HISTORY. brigade of four thousand five hundred infantry and cavalry, attended by eight hundred Bedouins and eight pieces of artillery, to subject this country to his power. The people, apprized of his intention, prepared themselves to the utmost of their power for defence. The Melek Moosalem marched out with his troops to meet the Defturdar at Bara, — a march of tAvelve hours from Lobeid.

His numerous but irregular army was Avell provided with every species of warlike AA'eapons, excepting fire-arms, which Avere little or not at all knoAvn in the country. The cavalry, like the old Numidian equestrian troops, AA'ore a shirt of mail, and pointed helmet without a vizor on their heads, and bore a double-edged SAA'ord thirty-six inches in length. The horses were caparisoned with plates of copper. The infantry were nearly naked ; armed simply with a shield and spear, and but a small party of them with tAvo-edged swords, {turbatsh,) and a species of tomahawk. The battle was fierce and bloody. The men of Kordo fan rushed Avith fury upon the foe, and defended their freedom AA'ith a total disregard of death ; even women participated in the fray. Hundreds of the combatants fell struck by the balls of the enemy ; the Avounded placed their fingers in their wounds, un able to understand Iioav they could have been hurt, Avithout having been touched by a Aveapon ; so igno rant were they of the use of fire-arms.

Infuriated they flung their spears at the cannons ; and, having succeeded in capturing a gun for a short time, souoht to reA-enge themselves on it for the destruction it HISTORY. had poured forth, by attacking it with their SAVords. The battle remained for a long time undecided. The Defturdar placed himself at the head of his cavalry, and, although ill, would not leave the field. Several attacks Avere A-aliantly repulsed. The Be douins put the Turks to the blush by their bravery ; Avhere the battle raged hottest, these children of the desert were to be seen discomfiting the enemy most. Victory inclined sometimes to the side of the Turks, sometimes to the side of the men of Kordofan, but it yet remained doubtful. The Turks were sometimes sorely pushed ; a Sheikh, hoAvever, of the Bedouins, from the race of Gemeat, was for tunate enough to lay Moosalem, the leader of the Kordofanese, prostrate with a pistol shot ; his death decided the battle.

The army of Kordofan, deprived of its leader, turned and took to flight ; they Avere pursued by the Turkish cavalry, and many of them killed on this route. Amongst the dead on the field of battle three Avomen Avere even found, who had taken an active part in the fight for their freedom. On the second day after this battle, the Defturdar entered Lobeid with his victorious army. The toAvn was plundered, and nearly wholly sacked ; the Defturdar found immeasurable treasure in this place, Avhich this avaricious tyrant immediately appropriated to himself. The country surrendered Avithout further resistance, excepting the mountain of " Dyre," situated at tAventy hours' march from Lobeid, which has retained its freedom to the present day. The Turkish army suffered deprivations of all kinds ; HISTORY. the greater part fell victims to the climate, and but feAv survived who could withstand its pernicious in fluence, and thus escaped with their lives.

Kordofan, excepting the free Nuba, is now divided into five districts ; a Casheff, or captain, presid ing over each ; a colonel, resident in Lobeid, is goA'ernor of the province, and no pen can describe to what oppression the country is now subjected ; all signs of wealth have entirely disappeared, and it is, as it were, drained by the Turks, who Avill not suffer any private person to attain the slightest degree of opulence. Many of tbe natives, tired of this oppression, have emigrated with all their pos sessions, and sought refuge either in Darfour, or in Takeli; and even as lately as the year 1838 the inhabitants of six villages have left the country. Nothing is now discernible but poverty and misery ; inhabitants of even moderate means are not to be met with, if we, perhaps, except some few Djelabi.* The various tribes inhabiting the country at present are the following : Hadejat, el Giomme, Bede rie, Shiswaba, el Etoman, Ogenrliab, Birget, Dombab, Almakaita, Elberiab, Hassenie, Hawara, Felata, Denagle or DongolaA-i, Darhammer, Abusanun, Dar hami, Serauy, Freseh, Basaue, el Maramera, Volet el Angon, Czahalin, Kubbabeesh (Sheikh Sale), Bene cira, Hababin (Sheikh Abdel Mahmud), Elhauwas- * Slave Merchants; Merchants in general; called, also, Dje labs, Gelabs, and Jelabs.