Travels in the Panjab, Afghanistan, & Turkistan, to Balk, Bokhara, and Herat; and a visit to Great Britain and Germany

Front matter

TRAVELS IN THE PANJAB, AFGHANISTAN, & TURKISTAN, TO BALK, BOKHARA, AND HERAT; AND A VISIT TO GREAT BRITAIN AND GERMANY. By MOHAN LAL, Esq., // Knight of the Persian Order of the Lion and Sun ; lately attached to the Mission at Kabul. LOND ON: Wm. H. A L L E N & Co., 7, LEADENHALL STREET. 1846. Printed by J. & H. COX, BROTHERS (late COX & SONS), 74 & 75, Great Queen-street, Lincoln's-Inn Fields. TO C. E. TREVELYAN, ESQ., fye. fye. fye. This volume is inscribed as a proof of my heart felt gratitude, respect, and affection to a friend to whom I am indebted for all I enjoy in the world : who, besides educating me in youth, early associated me with himself; taught me to think and to act as a man, when most of my companions were still engaged in their education in the class established by him, and who afterwards expressed his satisfaction towards me in the following words : " I feel now that the favourable opinion which I formed of you when a boy, and which subsequently led me to select you to accompany Sir Alexander Burnes on his journey, has been fully justified by the result, and it is satisfactory to me to think that I have been the means of ena bling you to commence an useful and honourable career." MOHAN LAL. London, 1st March, 1846.

Preface

. In presenting to the public the following journal of my travels, I feel it incumbent on me to state that my course of instruction in the English language was not of a long duration, and therefore I hope that errors of idiom, and the use of terms not strictly proper, will be overlooked by candid readers. Even in that short period of my tuition, I was not able to attend the college regularly, and pay close atten tion to my studies, owing to the sudden change from highly comfortable and adequate means, my predecessors having been deprived of respectable estates by Government.* Part of this Journal, which I kept during my * During this distressed state of my mind and circumstances, I was supported by Mr. C. E. Trevelyan with many friendly and encouraging speeches, and sometimes with pocket-money, for which, though at present in a more prosperous condition, I feel deeply grateful.

He gave me some lessons before he sent me to College, and also a document promising to promote my success in the world as far as lay in his power. V b VI

PREFACE.

. travels in Turkistan with the late Sir Alexander Burnes, was published by me in India, but as not a single copy of it was left unsold, and scarcely one was to be found in England, I thought it best to add it to the entirely new account of my travels in the Mazari country, and the commercial reports of tbe different marts on the Indus. The reader will, perhaps, be surprised to find that this volume contains nothing whatever concerning our disasters in Afghanistan. A narrative of those yet unexplained transactions will appear in another work, which is now in preparation. I have abridged a great deal of that part of my Journal formerly printed, and Mr. Trevelyan has likewise made alterations and abridgments in tbe Memoir. There were many statements in both which were quite uninteresting. The map of my route contains parts which I surveyed myself, and were never before traversed.

I have mentioned the names of some gentlemen and ladies, and quoted their letters, and I have expressed the sentiments of heartfelt gratitude which I owe them. This I have done with the view that the people of Asia might read them, and be thereby assured of receiving kindness in

PREFACE.

. this civilized and hospitable country, and discard the most unjust idea, that strangers are neither protected nor respected in Europe. MOHAN LAL, Kashmirian. 4, George-street, Manchester-square, London, lst March, 1846. b2 BY C. E. TREVELYAN, Esq Originally published at Calcutta, in the year 1834, as a Preface to Mohan Lai's Narrative of his Travels to Bokhara, Sfc, in company with the late Sir Alexander Burnes. Mohan Lal is the son of Rae Budh Singh, the son of Raja Mani Ram, of Kashmir, who held a high rank, with a considerable estate, at the court of the late emperors of Delhi. His father, the Rae, was a resident of that ancient metropolis, and he accompanied the Honourable Mountstuart Elphin stone to Peshawer, in the capacity of Persian secretary, from which association the subject of this Memoir began even from early childhood to take an interest in the affairs of that quarter.

After receiving the ordinary Persian education at home, Mohan Lal was introduced to me by his father, who had learned, from a short residence at Calcutta, the advantages of an English education, and willingly agreed to send his son to join an English class which had just been established in the Persian College at Delhi. Let no one despise the day of small things. This little class, which was formed amid the scoffs of X MEMOIR OF MOHAN LAL. the learned inhabitants of Delhi, and the prudential objections of not a few of the European residents ; and which consisted, for several weeks after its first establishment, of only six individuals, was the nu cleus of a system which, to all appearances, is destined to change the moral aspect of the whole of Upper India. Only five years have passed since that period, and an annually increasing body of the most intelligent and aspiring youths of the upper and middle classes, amounting at present to at least three hundred, is zealously pursuing the study of English ; and in a few years, such a number of advo cates and teachers of the new learning will have been raised up, that the system must obtain a de cided predominance.

Except among a few adherents to ancient systems, who foresee the inevitable con sequences of the process which is going on, prejudices have been disarmed ; and the movement has become so decidedly national, that Indians of rank and influence, no longer willing that the exclu sive direction should remain with the Europeans, have begun to take the matter into their own hands, and they are at this moment engaged in devising the means of establishing a separate col lege for the young nobility of that quarter, in which their children may receive a good English education, without associating with the other classes of the community. The importance of this change cannot be appreciated unless we recollect that Delhi was of all places the least promising field for trying a great experiment of this kind.

It was justly considered the stronghold of Mohammedan bigotry. The countenance and authority of the king, the large body of learned " maulavis and hakims,"* the numerous mosques and public ceremonials, and above all, the hereditary associations of respect and esteem with which the Mohammedan system was viewed in the Mohammedan capital, seemed to render such an attempt hopeless ; yet a more flourishing tree never sprung up even in the best of soils. English learning has now become so well and firmly esta blished, that, in the course of years, by the mere accumulation of existing means, without any new effort, it must displace every other system. After what has taken place at Delhi, we need not despair of success in any quarter, provided the efforts made are sustained by zeal, and directed by good sense.

We do not think our readers will blame us for shewing the connection which exists between Mohan Lai's history and the commencement of one of the greatest moral changes that has ever taken place on the face of the globe. Mohan Lal is among the first-fruits of the new system, and he has done it no small credit. He was one of the little class of six students above referred to, whose memory will be cherished when the professors of the new literature, and of the new system of morals * Theologians and medical men. and science embodied in it, will be numbered by millions, and when it will be narrated as a striking instance of the superintending providence of God, that so mighty a change was accomplished by means apparently so weak and contemptible. Shahamat Ali,* who is imparting gratuitous instruction in the English language to the youth of Lodiana, and amus ing the people of Calcutta with the interesting news of that quarter, is another of the six ; as are also Ramkrishan Jewahir Lal, and Sheoparshad, now teachers in the parent Institution at Delhi.

Although less known to fame, Ramkrishan made the earliest and greatest progress of all his fellows, and is now looked up to by his old associates with feelings of sincere respect and affection. The increase of the numbers of the English class attached to the Persian College led to the formation of a separate English College, among the students of which, Mohan Lal and his associates held, of course, the first rank. The hero of our tale pursued his studies here for nearly two years, during which he was principally distinguished for his amiable and gentle disposition, and unassuming deportment. Ramkrishan always kept somewhat in advance of him in the intellectual race, but none made such an impression upon the hearts of all who knew them as Mohan Lal. Other students might command in a greater degree the respect of visitors to the college, * Now chief Persian Secretary (Mir Munshi) to the Political Resident at Indore. but Mohan Lal won their affections ; and the natural grace of his simple and unaffected manners made him an universal favourite.

At this period Mr. Fitzgerald, of the civil service, now unhappily no more, arrived at Delhi. He visited the college, and a congeniality of disposition soon led him and Mohan Lal to become frequent associates. It was in his house Mohan Lal first became acquainted with Lieutenant Burnes,* who soon became sensible of his peculiar qualifications, and proposed to the late Lord William Bentinck, to take him as his companion and Persian secretary in the journey which he was about to undertake through Central Asia. This was the commencement of what may be called Mohan Lai's official career ; and since that period he has been so constantly before the public, that there is no occasion for me to trace minutely the steps of his progress. Suffice it to say, that wherever he has been employed, he has left behind him a favourable impression.

The natives of those distant countries expected, as a matter of course, to find superior qualifications in the gentlemen who composed the European portion of the party ; their learning and accomplishments created no astonishment ; but to see Mohan Lal, a young inhabitant of Delhi, who had never before left his native country, well stored with interesting information, * The late Sir Alexander Burnes. MEMOIR OF MOHAN LAL. and demeaning himself as one who was conscious of his own worth, at the same time that he was particularly unassuming in his manners — this was indeed a matter of surprise to them. They beheld an individual raised at once by the simple in fluence of an European education to associate in the highest society ; and a person who, under other circumstances, would not have been distinguished from the crowd, courted and beloved for the ex tent of his information (which to them appeared almost boundless), the agreeable manner in which he communicated it to them in their own language, and the general attraction of his manners.

This was, indeed, a triumph of our nation, which does us more real credit than all our Plasseys and Assayes. In the person of Mohan Lal we proved to the Mohammedan nations beyond the Indus our qualifi cation for the great mission with which we have been intrusted, of regenerating India. We con vinced them that we are capable of producing a moral change infinitely more honourable to us than any victory we have achieved. It must, therefore, be admitted that Mohan Lal deserves well of our country. Not to mention minor instances, Mohan Lal was honoured with the particular notice of Abbas Mirza, the late lamented prince royal of Persia. On the great day of Id-ul-Fatar, all the nobles of his court came to pay their respects to his highness, who was graciously pleased to summon Mohan Lal, by special invitation, to witness the pageant.

When the first ceremonies had been brought to a close, and the nobles, after presenting their offerings, had taken their places in the darbar, his highness turned towards Mohan Lal, and asked him, as he had seen both, whether Ranjit Singh's court could vie in magnificence with what he now saw before him, or whether the Sikh army could compare in discipline and courage with his highness's sirbaz?* To this Mohan Lal modestly, but firmly, replied, that Ma harajah Ranjit Singh's darbar-tent was made of Kashmir shawls, and that even the floor was com posed of the same costly material ; and as for his army, if Sardar Hari Singh (Ranjit's commander-in chief on the Afghan frontier) were to cross the Indus, his highness would soon be glad to make good his retreat to his original government in Tabriz.

The terms in which this reply was conceived, and the tone of voice in which it was delivered, were so indicative of frankness, that no idea of an impro priety having been committed occurred to any body ; yet the free expression of opinion was a thing so unheard of at the Persian court, that the entire audience stood waiting in silent expec tation for his highness's reply. This was not long delayed, and, as nearly as the recollection of our informant serves, it was as follows :— " Wonderful, wonderful ! " said Abbas Mirza, drawing the atten- * ' Stakers of their heads.' The Persian regular troops are so called. MEMOIR OF MOHAN LAL. tion of the court towards Mohan Lal ; " see the effect of English education ! " and, after a short pause, he continued — " How inscrutable are the decrees of Providence which has conferred so much power on a kafir !

(infidel) ; but if Ali, the Lion of God, favour us, we will yet plant our standard in Kashmir, and dress all our sirbazes in shawl panta loons." On his departure from Mashad, Mohan Lal was distinguished by his royal highness by the gift of the order of the Lion and Sun ; and since the premature decease of that truly noble prince, this mark of his good opinion has acquired additional value. From Mashad, where Abbas Mirza at that period held his court, Mohan Lal returned with Dr. Gerard to Herat, and during seven months' stay at that place, he contracted an intimate friendship with Sadat Malik, son of Shah Kamran, the Durani king of that part of Afghanistan. Jonathan and David, and Pylades and Orestes, were not more distinguished examples of disinterested friendship than Sadat Malik and Mohan Lal.

The princes of that country do not enjoy what we should regard as a princely revenue ; but Sadat Malik gave what he had, and conferred upon his friend an accomplishment which is likely to be of greater practical value to him through life than can be estimated in gold and silver : he taught him how to tie his turban in a style of superior elegance. We, who only deal in stiff round hats, can have no conception of the real importance to an Asiatic of the ability to arrange the ample drapery of his turban in a becoming manner. This gift among them ranks second only to that of a handsome face, and as almost all the world judge of persons by their outward appearance, the possession of such an accomplishment is likely to have a beneficial influence over a per son's prospects through life. From Herat, Mohan Lal proceeded in company with Dr. Gerard to Candahar, where he attracted the particular notice of the Barakzai chiefs of that place.

Indeed Mohammed Saddiq Khan, the eldest son of Kohan Dil Khan, the principal chief, was so deeply interested by the information which Mohan Lal, owing to his English education, was able to impart to him, that he had at one time made up his mind to accompany him to Calcutta, in order to acquire the same advantages ; but he was prevented from carry ing this resolution into effect by the unexpected approach of Shah Shuja, which rendered it necessary for him to remain at his post. From Candahar the travellers returned to Kabul, where perhaps the highest compliment of all was paid to Mohan Lai's character. Sardar Dost Mo hammed Khan, the stern and penetrating ruler of that country, pressed him to enter into his service, and the good-natured Jabbar Khan, Dost Mohammed's brother, with difficulty got him excused on the plea that he had been long absent from his father, and that it was therefore his duty to return MEMOIR OF MOHAN LAL. to see him before he entered upon any plan of life.

From the practical illustration of its effects upon Mohan Lal, Jabbar Khan was so convinced of the greatly superior value of an English education to any which his own country could afford, that he resolved to send his eldest son to receive his education in our provinces, and he has since actually done so. Abdul Ghaias Khan is at this moment zealously pursuing his English studies at Lodiana, under the auspices of Captain Wade.* Whatever influence, there fore, this distinguished example may hereafter have in determining the choice of the people of India, and those of the Trans-Indus countries, between the Asiatic and European systems of in struction, the world is entirely indebted for it to Mohan Lal. Mohan Lal has now arrived in Calcutta, in charge of despatches and of the collection of coins and curiosities made by him and Dr. Gerard in the course of their journey.

For this service he has received the thanks of the Asiatic Society; but what he has already done may be considered only as a slight earnest of the contributions which he will hereafter make to Asiatic science. Through the kind acknowledgment of his merits by the Governor-General, he will shortly return to Kabul in a public capacity ; and the leisure and influence he will enjoy, combined with the peculiar advan- * Now Lieutenant-Colonel Sir Claude Wade. tages of the situation, both as a place of great interest in itself, and also as a point of easy com munication with several other countries of clas sical celebrity, will, no doubt, enable him to esta blish much greater claims on the gratitude of the scientific world than he has hitherto done. Even now he is zealously engaged in acquiring those qualifications which are necessary to enable him to make the most of the opportunities he will enjoy ; and, besides the directions which he receives from Mr. James Prinsep, secretary to the Asiatic Society, regarding the points which will be particularly deserving of his attention, he is going through a regular course of instruction in surveying, and the morning of the seventh day is the only one which does not behold him and his teacher busily engaged in taking angles, and measuring with the chain.

One other brief remark only requires to be added — What has given Mohan Lal so decided an advan tage over the generality of his countrymen ? What is it that has gained for him a willing acknowledgment of his personal superiority by the princes of Central Asia, and enables him to enjoy, on terms of equality, the society of European gentlemen ? It is simply his knowledge of the English language : not a cri tical knowledge — that he leaves to those philologists in whose estimation languages are desirable objects of acquisition, not so much as a medium of obtaining knowledge, as for their own proper sakes — but XX such knowledge as enables him to read and under stand English books, and to converse intelligently with English gentlemen on ordinary subjects. This is the simple cause of Mohan Lai's elevation of character ; and can it be doubted that, under the Divine blessing, the same means which have pro duced such a decided effect in raising an individual in the scale of civilization and honour, will, if properly applied, lead to the same result in regard to the entire population of this great country ? Calcutta, August 22nd, 1834. CONTENTS

Chapter I. From Delhi To Peshawer

Departure from Delhi — Panipat — Kurnal — Ambalah — Lodiana — Hari — Akalis, or Nihangs — Sikh Jats — Arrival at Lahor — Ranjit Singh — His government — His darbar — Hunting expedition — Tomb of Jahangir — Departure from Lahor — Sadhs — Salt-mines near Pind Dadal Khan — Fort of Rotas — Manikyala — Indo-Grecian antiquities — Raval Pindi — Margala — Hindu traveller — Passage of the Indus — Arrival at Peshawer — Character of the chiefs, government, people, &c. — escription of the city and its neighbourhood ... Page

Chapter II. From Peshawer To Kabul, Balk, And Bokhara

Departure from Peshawer — The Shahalam, or Kabul river — The Khaibar country — Ascent of the mountains — An Afghan husbandman — Jalalabad — Arrival at Kabul— The Rev. Mr. Wolff — Description of the city — Character of Dost Mohammed Khan — People of Kabul — Tomb of tho emperor Babar — Trade of Kabul — Revenue — Climate, &c. — Departure for Bokhara — Region of the C CONTENTS. XXII 51 TO Hazaras — Pass of Shatar Gardan — Deep snow — Tradi tion respecting the emperor Zohak — Cave-dwellings — Bamian — Its colossal statues — Tradition respecting them — Fort of Shahar Ghul Ghulah — Tradition respecting it — Hindu Kush — Saighan — Dandar Shikan Pass — Beauty of the women — Robbers — Haibak — Enter Mir Murad Beg's country — Arrival at Khulum — Detention there — Account of Murad Beg and his government — Slavery — His Diwan Begi, a Hindu — Visit of Sir A. Burnes to Qunduz — Sufferings of the party — People of Khulum — Trade of the place — Return of Sir A. Burnes — Departure — Mazar — Arrival at Balk — Description of the city — Grave of Mr. Moorcroft — Departure — The country — Turkmans — The Amu, or Oxus — Mode of crossing the river — Sufferings in the desert — Qizal Bash slaves — Qarshi — Female slaves of the Uzbegs — Arrival at Bokhara — Description of the city — Character and manners of the people — Jews — Hindus — Government of Bokhara — Climate — Productions — The King — His revenue — Military force — The Qosh Begi, or Prime Minister — Manufactures of Bokhara — Treatment of the travellers in that city ... V

Chapter III. From Bokhara To Mashad, And From Thence Herat

Departure from Bokhara — The country — Detention at Mirabad — The Hurganji — Mr. Moorcroft — Departure for Mashad — Sandy deserts — Passage of the Oxus, and entrance into Khorasan — Charju — Cruel treatment of Turkman slaves — Marv — Sarakhs — Its singular govern- CONTENTS.

XXIII ment — Slaves — Alamans, or robbers — Arrival at Ma shad — Tomb of Imam Raza — The Prince Ruler of Mashad — Murder of the Russian ambassador at Tehran — Visit to the camp of Abbas Mirza, at Qochan — Ex cursion of Sir A. Burnes to the Caspian Sea — Turquois mines at Madan — Return to Mashad — Entrance of Abbas Mirza into the city — Yar Mohammed Khan, vazir of Herat — Mohammed Mirza, the present king of Persia — Sir John Macneill — Description of Mashad — Colleges — Productions — Inhabitants, &c. — Departure — Turbat — Abbas Mirza — His Qaim Moqam, or prime minister — Operations of the Persian army — Dependen cies of Turbat — Stages from Tehran to Tabrez, Ispahan, and Mashad — Departure for Herat — Arrival at that city — Visit to the king, Shah Kamran — Communication with his Majesty — Return of the author to Mashad — Detention of Ghuryan — Mahmudabad — Arrival at Ma shad — The Author sent for by Prince Abbas Mirza — Remarkable conversation with the Prince — Return to Herat — Visit to the King . her Mohammed Khan, Hazara chief — Mir Saddiq Khan — Women of Herat — Tortures employed by the King to extort money — Treatment of the poor — The court — Cruel punishment of slave-dealers — Seizure of the Author's servant, sent to Mashad — Letter from Rahim Dil Khan, chief of Can dahar — The Shias — Afghan travellers — Visit to the King — Mausolea of the family of Taimur, at the Gazur Gah— The Takt-i-Safar— The Masjid Jama— Ruined buildings in Herat — Its revenue — Remarkable objects in the city — List of the ancient kings of Herat — The reigning King and his family — People of Herat — Pro ducts, manufactures, and trade ... ... ... p. CONTENTS. XXIV

Chapter IV. From Herat To Candahar

Departure from Herat — Sabzawar — Forts of the Maiden and Youth — Hauz — The Author plundered by robbers- Loss of his journal — He proceeds to Farah — Recovers his property — Girisk — Arrival at Candahar — Visit to the chief — Description of the city and its inhabitants — The Babavali fair — Grotto of Ghar Jamshaid — Gardens — Ancient city — The Chihal Zinah — Persian inscription, recording the conquests of the Emperor Babar — The Sardars of Candahar — Its climate — Productions — Commerce — Routes — Duties ... p. 279

Chapter V. From Candahar To Kabul

Departure from Candahar — Robbers — The Ghilzais — Divalak — Chief of the Takhis — Turnak river — Ghazni — Description of the city — Tomb of Sultan Mahmud — Arrival at Kabul — Mr. Masson — Visit to Dost Mohammed Khan ... ... ... ... ... p. 322

Chapter VI. From Kabul To Peshawer, Thence To Calcutta

Departure from Kabul— But Khak — Tezin— Sokhtah Chinar— Jagdalak — Wandering Afghans — Gandu Mak — Tatang — Sugar-canes — Jalalabad — The Siah Posh — Topes — Hindu idols — Antiquities — Peshawer — Bag Ram — Re-cross the Indus — Atak — Generals Ventura CONTENTS. XXV and Avitabili — Lahor — Amritsar — Lodiana — Delhi — Cool reception of the Author by his jealous countrymen — Alahabad— Arrival at Calcutta ... ... jo. 336

Chapter VII. From Calcutta On

A MISSION TO KABUL. Departure from Calcutta — Lodiana — Legend of Farid Shakarganj Shakarbar — Bahawalpur — Mianpur — Shujabad — Bibi Jannat — Multan — Death of Radha Kishen — Commerce of the Indus — Productions of Multan — Trade — Duties — Prices of Commodities — Marts — Extortions in the Panjab— Departure from Multan — Qaraishi — Visit to Diwan Sawan Mai — Dera Ghazi Khan — Routes — Shikarpur — Dandjal — Herrand — Mazari Beloches — Rajanpur — Mitankot — Beloch language — Omarkot — Country of the Mazaris — Manners of the tribe — The Buldis — Ghauspur — Shikarpur — Baihram Khan — Cross the Indus, and enter Sindh — Gotki — Khairpur — Kot Sabzal — Khanpur — Ahmadpur — The Author acts as British Agent in Bahawalpur — Curious question in Mohammedan law — The Author attached to the mission of Sir A. Burnes — The mission enters the territory of Khairpur — Reception by the Nawab — Uch Sharif — Tombs of the Saints — Arrival at Peshawer — Jamrod — Khaibar Pass — Ali Masjid — Deputation from Dost Mohammed Khan — Arrival at Kabul — Captain Vicovitch, the Russian agent — Rupture of the negotiations — The Reg Raiean, or moving sand — Departure from Kabul — Arrival at Simla .. . ... ... p. CONTENTS.

Chapter VIII. From Sindh, With The Army, To Kabul And Firozpur

Army of thc Indus — Departure of the Author for Khairpur — His successful negotiations with Mir Rustam Khan — Movements of the army — March to Candahar, and restoration of Shah Shuja — Advance of tho army to Ghazni and Kabul — Flight of Dost Mohammed Khan — Arrival at Kabul — Order of the Durrani Empire — Operations in the Kohistan — Surrender of the Amir — Outbreak at Kabul — Murder of Sir A. Burnes — Peril of the Author — His sufferings — His secret negotiations for tho relief of the prisoners, with the chiefs and Salah Mohammed Khan — His success — His escapo from prison — Re-occupation of Kabul by Sir George Pollock — Transactions in the city — Withdrawal of the British forces — Arrival at Lahor — Reception of the Jalalabad garrison by the Governor-General, at Firozpur — Generous act of Shahainat Ali ... ... ... p. 463

Chapter IX. From Lodiana To England

Arrival at Lodiana — Meeting with Dost Mohammed Khan — The Author joins tho court of the Governor-General, at Delhi— Mr. Clerk — Gwalior — Dcwas — Indore — Colonel Outram — Nasal. — Arrival at Bombay — Visit to Sir George Arthur — Departure for England — Accident to the steamer — Return to Bombay — Re-embarkation— Aden— Suez— Cairo— Alexandria— Malta— Gibraltar— Arrival at the Isle of Wight p. CONTENTS. XXVII

Chapter X. England, Scotland, Ireland, And Germany

1 ,;indiiig at Ryde — Portsmouth — Southampton — Arrival in London — Reception by the Court of Directors — Objects in the metropolis — Visit to Scotland — Montrose — Edinburgh — Glasgow — Visit to Ireland — Dublin — Westport — Woodvillc — Return to England — Liverpool — Manchester — Arrival in London — English manners aud society — Visit to Belgium — Antwerp — Brussels — Germany — The Rhine — Wisbaden — Frankfort — Dresden — Berlin — Tho Author dines by invitation with the King and Queen of Prussia — Return to England p. mmr ,1 JOURNAL, 4c.