Recollections of a Tour. A Summer Ramble in Belgium, Germany and Switzerland

Front matter

RECOLLECTIONS OF A TOUR. A SUMMER RAMBLE IN Belgium, (germanj), antr Bl J. W. MASSIE, D.D., M.R.I.A., AUTHOR OF "CONTINENTAL INDIA," "IRELAND AND THE IRISH CHURCH," ETC. L-iNDON: JOHN SNOW, PATERNOSTER-ROW, MDCCCXLVI. *' Where is the Briton's home? Where the free step can roam, Where the free sun can glow, Where the free air can blow, Where the free ship can bear Hope and strength— everywhere Wave upon wave can roll, East and west — pole to pole : Where a free ship can roam — There is the Briton's home." TO THE MEMORY OF JOHN HENDRIC AGNIS MASSIE, MEDICAL STUDENT ; BORN OCTOBER 1S26, DECEASED APRIL 1845 : A beloved son, whose departure has heen ingenuously mourned as his remembrance is affectionately and fondly cherished. His parents' partial judgment had inspired too sanguine expectations of early maturity, the development of culti vated talent and generous principles in the pursuit of professional distinction, and the enjoyment of friendships which only the wise and good know how to appreciate.

But after a protracted indisposition, which was mercifully cheered by the good hope of a blessed immortality through faith in the Redeemer, an overruling Providence, in the exercise of sovereign wisdom, gently dissolved the bonds of nature and the fellowships of kindred earth. The first part of the following "Recollections" tran scribed for the press, was prepared for his pleasure, and the whole volume was designed to have been devoted to DEDICATION. his advantage. Months passed of silence to the bereaved, whose sorrows were too full to suffer such application and thought as were congenial to the literary occupation. It is now a father's desire, — perhaps some may think it is his frailty, — to identify this volume and the affectionate remembrance of his child as a faint memorial of sympathies which have been endeared in time and will be sacred in eternity.

He is no artiste, and makes not the pretension of one able to weave an enduring wreath for the tomb ; but he finds a solace even in the effort to embalm these Recollections with the name of one so truly beloved by The Author. Lower Broughton, December 8th, 1845.

Preface

. France and the Netherlands, Germany and Switzerland, had long presented attractions to my curiosity, and pro mised gratification to my predilections, which the angusta res domi only compelled me to resist. Necessity, however, was laid upon me, and medical prescription left me no option ; while the affectionate solicitude of a generous and kind flock suffered no economical excuse to prevail, or prudential forethought to procrastinate a decision. Thus unexpectedly was I summoned to travel in lands which I had longed to explore, and to mingle among tribes for whose converse I was but little prepared. The publication of my observations and inquiries was induced with almost as little anticipation. To gratify and, imperfectly, to requite the friends who had facilitated my journey, and ministered so effectually to my comfort and health, I commenced the delivery of a few lectures on the countries through which I had traversed.

The subject expanded, and the lectures were increased. Brief sum maries appeared in the local journals, and were transferred to several metropolitan periodicals ; and their successive a VI

PREFACE.

. appearance seemed to afford pleasure and information. Dining in the midst of a select company of literary friends, the question was put, whether I meant to publish ? More in banter, than with serious project, I replied it would depend on the patronage and advice of such friends. The reply was encouraging, and the decision was taken. I then little conjectured whereunto this would grow. It was, then, no ambition of mine to enter the lists with Howitt, to follow Bulwer, or rival Talfourd ; and now, baud paribus passibus, I would pursue the track which they have trod, while I claim some distinction from them in the principles of our creed, and the moral tendency of our observations. I meant, from the first, to indicate how the scenes and associations strike a Christian. I was also solicitous to accumulate local and historical information, rather than poetical descants or theological disquisitions. 1 have therefore corrected, as well as recollected ; inves tigated, as well as surveyed ; and collected, as well as recited, the traditions and legends of those famed regions.

Yet, had I contemplated inquiries so elaborate and diver sified as have followed, I should have shrunk from the task, and doubted the wisdom of such an undertaking. One-third of my manuscript remains a sealed book to the readers of this volume ; which I regret having been compelled to reserve, since it contains what was to myself a peculiarly interesting portion of my travels and inquiries. The capital of Prussia and its royal residences, with its metropolitan institutions and political relations ; — the capi tal of Saxony and its almost classical monuments and antiquities, with the kindred associations and historical relationships of the race from whom Englishmen have

PREFACE.

. VII sprung; — the great highway from Saxon Switzerland, along the Elbe to Hanseatic Hamburg, afforded to me scope for much varied observation, incidents, and adventure. I wished also to understand the religious condition of Ger many, and had ventured some speculations on the phe nomena which were then developing and have since appeared. Nor did I feel that I could do justice to the people of the Jewish nation, except in a separate paper in which their habits, worship, position, and prospects were severally considered. The limits of my volume have precluded even an abridgement of such discussions, and they are deferred. Many kind and thoughtful friends have cheered me on in the preparation of this, alas ! too desultory volume, and encouraged me to hope that they will look with a candid and indulgent eye on its pages.

For their generous and seasonable countenance I feel truly grateful, and return to them the liveliest and most affectionate assurances of gra tude and consideration. It might be deemed an ostenta tious parade were I to record the names of numerous friends who have long ago subscribed, so as to insure the issue of the volume, and give assurance of their confidence in the principles and integrity of the author. The remembrance of such friendships will be treasured in my own bosom, and inculcated on those who will not despise a parent's counsel, or a father's friend. It has been my solicitude to render the work not unworthy of the favour which has been evinced, and useful as well as pleasing to those who may peruse its pages. I have, therefore, not merely revised — I have written again nearly every paragraph since it was announced for the

PREFACE.

. VIII press ; I have also added much historical and descrptive matter. The Lectures which I delivered were the occasion of the publication, rather than either the substance or details of its statements ; and in no instance has it been anticipated by the epitomes which appeared through the kind partiality of the editors of London and Manchester journals. The recent visit of the beloved monarch of the British Isles to Germany, served to call public attention to the scenery and people of that land ; and it gratified me to observe that the many interesting and elaborate descriptions given in the daily press, of the regions through which the Queen passed, were not only correctly written, but eagerly received, and did but increase the kindly feelings which should subsist between nations. Much of what was then described, to meet the ephemeral demand, will be traced in the subsequent pages, written without any reference to the progress of royal personages, and as seen and admired not amid the trappings, turmoil, and pageantry of princely retinues, but while one has leisure to survey, and no momentary purpose to serve.

I hope, too, it will be considered as presented in a more convenient form, as it is adapted for permanent reference and perusal. Yet I am conscious that, as a performance, much imperfection adheres to my work, for which I crave the forbearance of indulgent critics. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Elder cities of Flanders — Modern capital of Belgium — Political and moral aspect of the people .... Page 1 Dunkirk — Nieuport — Ostend — Passports and Tahiti — Mechlin — Cathedrals — Altarpiece — Bruges — Maximilian — Ghent — Van-Artaveldt — Charles V. — Iconoclasts — Causes of decay — Antwerp Exchange — Reverses of Antwerp — Inquisition — Cathedral — Rubens — Devotion of Art — Brussels — Feminine attire — Anglican Chapels — Tindale a heretic — What is wanted — Mary and her crown — A legendary name.

Chapter II

Modern Belgian cities — Church Establishments — Papal persecutions — Reformation suppressed — Manufactures — Missionary efforts Page 52 Brussels carpets — Lace, etc. — Literary piracy — Bookselling — Public park — La Bagatelle — Clerical influence — Protestant clergy — Belgian Nonconformity — The Confessor's death — The precious Bible — General education — Louvain — Protestant missions — Wordsworth— Namur, the Belgian Sheffield — John Cockerill — Charles the Bold — Benefits of trade — Progress of truth — Encouraging tokens — Spa, its environs — Belgian railway — Aix la Chapelle — Prevalence of popery.

Chapter III

Prussian liberty — The Rhine — Travellers' descriptions — Towns of the Lower Rhine — Feudal grandeur — Cologne — Antiquarian Architecture Page 103 Timber rafts — Dort — Continental railways — Spare beds — Streets of Cologne — Fighting prelates — Cathedral of Cologne — Greatness in design — The three kings — Relic-seeing fees — Pageantry and delusion — Deposed archbishop — Reliquary — Antiquities — Canonization of St. Ursula — A Hanse town — Mercantile changes — The Medicis — Eau de Cologne — Bonn — Universities — German Students — Orgies — Niebuhr's grave — Beethoven — The Siegenberg — Drachenfels — Juice of the grape. X CONTENTS.

Chapter IV

Cities of the Rhine — The Moselle — Trade of the Middle Ages — Monastic institutions — Feudal powers — Mercantile democracy, Page 166 Bridge of boats— Vine proprietors — Mummied Monks — Fearless worship — A boat sail — A deserted nunnery — Robber lords — An amateur echoist — Sign of the Cross — Antique memorials — Coblenz — Ehrenbreitstein — Love and war — A mid-day reverie — Monument of victory — A winding river — Abbey of Prum — Cathedral of Treves — Palace of Constantine — Gladiatorial combats — Roman amphitheatre — The net-catcher — Fragments — Bridge of the Moselle — The Coat of Treves — Pilgrimage and absolution — Pilgrims of the coat — The rebound of inquiry — The finale — Ronge's rebuke — The appeal — The conteBt — Early awakenings — The youth of Ronge — Predisposing causes — A Reformer's costume — Refusals to retract — Banks of the Moselle — Thronus Bacchi — A feudal relic — Reliquary worship — A defective sermon.

Chapter V

The cities of the Rhine — Antique remains — Historical associations — Free trade — Invention of printing — Free thought — Free religion — Reformation ..... Page 248 Neuvried — A buried city — Floating flour-mills — Monuments of tyranny — A storm on the Rhine — The bishop and the rats — Mayence — The Seneschal's revenue — Garrison of Mayence — Prelates and wine — The League — The land of joy — The Jews at Worms — Private judgment — Frankenthal — A peaceful town — Palace of Karl Philip — The soldier's pastime — Mannheim — Schiller — The fugitive author — Military incendiarism — Spires — The tomb of princes — Heidelberg — The valley of the Neckar — The eccentric artist — The mountain ramble — The student's sympathies — The funeral — Funeral reflections.

Chapter VI

The Baths of Germany — Bubbles of the Spa — Bad Ems — The Serpent's Bath — The Langen-Schwalbach — Wiesbaden, and the Baden baths Pa»e 298 A soldier's love — The bubble-blower — The Duke's police — Nassau — The Baths — The reddening-bath — The legend ofthe cow — The bath lodging CONTENTS. XI — Order of the table d'hote — Water bibbing — Political smoking — The dinner serenade — Confessing religion — The Jewess at the pool — Sepul chral colloquies — The hog and the priest — The captive barometer — The English solitaire — Wiesbaden — The Koch-Brunnen — Studyof the bubbles — Subterranean soup — The hidden fountain — The spiritual parallel — Russian influence — Perfidious policy — The depths of despotism — Means of entrapping — Pursuit of pleasure — Maison de conversation — Madness of play — Baden — Properties of the Spa.

Chapter VII

Switzerland — Interest in visiting this country — Contiguous provinces — Capital of Alsatia — Mountains and rivers — Basel — Constance — Early reform — Protestantism and liberty — Swiss scenery and history — Zurich and Berne — Minor cantons and patriotic struggles ...... Page 358 Alpine outline — The lion of Lucerne — Constance — Another Custom-house — Description of Strasburg — Strasburg Cathedral — Feats of folly — The tower of Strasburg — Mulhausen manufactories — Heroism of suffering.— Fight of liberty — Religious intolerance — A Sunday in Basel — Battle of St. Jacob — Sunday sports — University of Basel — Mission College — A bad principle — Aspect of Basel — Scenery of the Birs — Travelling by night — Schwyz towns — Berne — Appearance of Berne — The bears of Berne — The battle of Morat — Monument of Freyburg — First Alpine vision — Neuchattel institutions — Lake Leman.

Chapter VIII

Historical scenes on the Genfer See — Literary asylum — Refugee Reformers — Canton of Vaud — Evangelization at Lyons — Associations and characters at Geneva — Christian enterprise — Chamouni Page 415 Lausanne — Literary refugees — Gibbon and Voltaire — The insects and Bishop — Vinet and voluntaryism — The Scotch traveller — The Law of God — Protection and persecution — Dissent in Vaud — Lyons — The church at Lyons — The Gospel propagated — Calvin and Servetus — Incidental history — Geneva ecclesiastics — The suburbs of Geneva— Intolerance of toleration — Modified standards — Haldane — Geneva— Spiritual darkness — A progressive work — Truth invincible — A wealthy Christian Intolerance at Geneva — Education and government — Merle and his CONTENTS. colleagues — Brethren of the Oratoire — Evangelical liberality — Moral grandeur preferred — Banks of the Arve — Cascade d'Arpenaz — Mont Blanc alone — Ascent to the glacier — An Alpine scene.

Chapter IX

Luther's Fatherland — The Reformation — Its Instrumentality — Its progress — Its Memorials — Its Influence in Germany, Page 482 Ambassadors and espionage — Jews at Frankfort — The Biblical ambassador — The bones of St. Bonniface— Luther's boyhood — A poor scholar's gratitude — The Hamster rat — The student and Bible — A Monk's farewell — Monkish bondage and sorrow — Luther's early fame — Luther's first pulpit — Lucas Crannach's paintings — Melancthon and Luther — Burning the Bible — Tombs of the mighty dead — Tezel and indulgences — Apostolic succession — The Wartburg Patmos — Luther's reappearance — A plethora of learning — Friendly warning — Stone of the Swede — A bewildered traveller — A field of slaughter — Events of victory — Tbe Leipsig discussion — Invocation of the Holy Ghost — Fruits of moral victory — Aspect of Halle — Franke's Institut — Handicrafts taught — University preachers. RECOLLECTIONS, $c.

Chapter I

Elder cities of Flanders— Modern Capital of Belgium — Political and moral aspect of the people. Belgium, the first of continental countries through which I passed in my recent tour, and which imparted to my mind its primitive impressions of European nations, and will probably continue to retain the first place in my associations and reminiscences of travelling incident, will be, for to-night, the land of our adoption. The country contiguous to, or connected with Brussels, will primarily claim our notice ; and as our route will be more directly among the towns which are situated between the sea-coast and port of Ostend and this Gallican capital of the Nether lands, we shall limit our survey to only the elder cities of the provinces of Flanders. I need not enter into minute details descriptive of the journey from Manchester, by way of London, through Kent, to the English coast ; though along such a line it would not be difficult to find objects of attraction, scenes of loveliness and grandeur, and asso ciations of greatness and enterprise unsurpassed by any romance of foreign adventure.

The passage from Dovor to Ostend may be accomplished in eight hours by a steam vessel ; and between some other of the contiguous ports in a fourth part of the time. The sea within the straits of Dovor, from port to port, is not often stormy; yet frequently it heaves up an odious swell, which causes no B "RECOLLECTIONS. pleasant sensations in the stomach ; as troublesome as the agitated surf or brisk gale ; so as fairly to test the equa nimity and fortitude of the passenger, even should the vessel be of the best description. Certain squeamish qualms, if not of conscience, still quite as heartfelt in their influences, will visit the traveller, especially if he have never been before at sea. The shortness of the voyage, however, soon brings to a termination the inconvenience; and when the vessel approaches the opposite coast, the influ ence of the swell is less felt, and the unpleasantness abates.

The inexperienced and sickened traveller is brought into better humour with surrounding objects, and begins almost to relish his voyage by the time he has reached the coast of Belgium. The first town on the continent which attracted my notice, and at the same time recalled many historical associations, was Dunkirk. Its proximity to the mouth of the Thames secured to it in the records of English power early and prolonged distinction. When subject to the dominion of Spain, whose waning maritime power watched with vexing and restrictive jealousy the growing commerce of England, it was regarded by our merchants as the resort of, and a harbour for pirates, and was there fore marked out by Oliver Cromwell for chastisement, and doomed to conquest and subjugation under British rule. By his direction, the ambassador Lockhart, and Major- General Morgan, had combined in hostile confederacy with Marshal Turenne ; and, after discomfiting in battle a Spanish army of 30,000 soldiers, commanded by the Prince of Conde, the Duke of York, &c, 6,000 English men stormed and captured the fortress and garrison of Dunkirk.

Cromwell required, and the French king, counselled by Cardinal Mazarine, agreed, that an Eno-lish force should occupy the fort, and an English commander should govern the city. Lockhart himself, in the Protec tor's name, was invested with the government of the DUNKIKK. 3 citadel, which he held till the Restoration. The place afterwards acquired celebrity as a memorial of royal base ness, when Charles the Second, in a mercenary spirit, followed the counsels of his Lord Chancellor (Hyde), and sold the fortress to the French for 5,000,000 of livres, or £500,000. Clarendon's superb mansion, subsequently known as Dunkirk House, served to perpetuate his in famy. Lockhart's pride, as an Englishman, was so wounded by the profligate policy of the monarch, that he would not in person fulfil the terms of surrender, but transferred obedience to the royal mandate to his deputy, John Prentice.

This functionary was among the last of British subjects who submitted to the monarch of the Restoration ; and his son, Archibald Prentice, is numbered among the first who, as a Scottish covenanter, resisted his authority in Britain. The city of Dunkirk again excited national concern, and was the subject of royal treaties, in the reign of George the Third. Its contiguity to the coast of England in duced some who, from attachment to the Stuart dynasty, or other political causes, were driven forth as exiles, to make it their rendezvous and refuge ; where, as residents, they could correspond with their friends, and receive supplies. The British ministry in 1763 required that its Cunette should be destroyed, as well as the forts and batteries which defended its entrance from the sea. In com pliance with this demand, Louis the Fifteenth, King of France, employed 300 men as sappers and miners for the work of demolition.

Again, in 1793, the events and dis asters of war gave Dunkirk renewed notoriety and import ance in the history and achievements of English royalty. To repress the French Revolution, and support the Bour bon dynasty, a British army was marched into this country and repulsed before Dunkirk, while the Duke of York was placed in a most perilous position, and his troops threatened with destruction. This event was recalled to b EEC0LLECTI0NS. my recollection by a stanza of an old song, which alleged that " The Duke of York to Dunkirk came." Songs are ofttimes remembered when prosaic history is forgotten — how important, then, that even our ballads should be truthful, as well as fitted M To point a moral and adojn a tale." This town now contains 1,800 houses and 24,000 inhabitants. Some fragments of the naval arsenal remain, which, with enterprise and encouragement, might serve as the rudiments of successful competition, and supply the port with trade and shipping, which still linger with the inha bitants, who pursue the whale fishery.

I looked with reflective interest upon this decayed city as the extreme boundary of French territory, and lying contiguous to Nieuport. The situation of this town, amidst the swamps of the Isser, which flows through the sandy plain of this coast, though the first of Belgian towns, has few attractions for the fugitive tourist. Yet my associations derived from the early history of Europe suggested some recollections which brought to mind the strifes and struggles for liberty by which the infant republic of the seven provinces was ma tured and consolidated. On the sands of Nieuport, and almost within sight of the track in which I now sailed, Prince Maurice met the Archduke Albert — the former as the general of the seven united provinces, and the latter as the viceroy of Spain in the government of the Nether lands.

The forces of Maurice were composed of adven turers, as allies to the Dutch, from the English, Scotch, French, German, and Swiss nations, under officers of such celebrity as Sir Horace and Sir Francis Vere ; while Arch duke Albert commanded Irish, Belgian, Walloon, Italian, and Spanish confederates, led by Mendoza and La Berlotta NIEUP0BT. — an epitome of Europe at that day. On these sands, (on the 2nd July, 1600,) two hundred and almost fifty years ago, more than 20,000 chosen men from these eleven nations rushed into close and deadly conflict ; and, abandoning the more distant combat of fire-arms, with pike and sword, man to man, and foot to foot, their ensanguined weapons crossing each other, and every man seeking only the death of his antagonist, they panted for each other's blood : in the phrase of martial history, nothing exceeded their mutual display of skill and courage, while not an inch of ground was gained or lost.

The artillery of the Dutch patriots alone kept up its well-directed and destructive fire upon the Spanish cavalry, which was thus broken and driven back on their infantry, throwing it into con fusion. The Archduke, wounded on the cheek, un horsed, and compelled to quit the field, left his war-steed to gallop alone before his soldiers' view, and thus spread the alarm throughout the royalist ranks that their general was killed. Prince Maurice saw and seized the critical moment ; after three hours of desperate conflict he gave the word for a general advance, and leading his troops to the charge, obtained a decided victory. The defeat of the Spaniards was complete ; their whole artillery, baggage, standards, and ammunition, fell into the hands of the conquerors ; and by some it is stated that 6,000 men were killed in the battle.

More than half the men engaged were either killed or desperately wounded. Yet the siege of Nieuport was resumed in vain, the conquering army could not carry its defences, and the prince had to retire to Ostend with his troops. The place is now insignificant, bears no memorial of strength or security, and is but the evanescent shade of its former self. So do the glories of war pass away ! These towns were my earliest sights on the continental shores of Europe, and thus associated are the events of bygone years. Ostend stretches along the shore, the beach of which is RECOLLECTIONS. low, and not seen to a great distance. The towers only are discernible at sea. When you approach near enough, the entrance to the harbour is found parallel to and under the shelter of a wooden pier, that is extended consider ably into the shallow water.

The passenger by the steamer, who as a visitor from other lands is watching for novelty, and wishing to catch the first characteristic fea ture of the scene, and the manners of the people as they rise, will perceive, so soon as he is within sight, on this pier multitudes of the inhabitants of Ostend, whether it be listlessly lounging for pastime and promenade, or that they may recognise friends, gazing with curious search among the strangers on board the vessel, and crowding to ward the point of debarkation, as if waiting and watching were the business of their lives. When I entered between the Digue, or sea-wall, and this wooden pier, there were hundreds strolling backwards and forwards, apparently for recreation. Not far from this place are numerous baths upon the shore, which are in much request, in consequence of the King of Belgium having resorted to Ostend as a watering place for himself and his family.

During the summer season, many thousands who are not inhabitants of the town loiter here, seeking pleasure, and give the place the aspect of idleness and dissipation. Its empty wharfs and wet-docks, which intersect the town, and its broad quays and lofty houses, leave the idea of spaciousness and the ap pearance of desertion and decay. But it was once more celebrated than it has been in recent times. Ostend was a fortress of great strength, and was deemed almost impregnable, in the sixteenth century. It resisted the skill, bravery, and resources of the whole Spanish force and their most celebrated engineers and tacticians for nearly four years. The attack and the defence were conducted with equal courage, perseverance, and military science ; and the protracted operations kept alive for more than three years the anxiety of all the military men of OSTEND.

Europe. Sir Francis Vere commanded the fortress at its first investment by the Spaniards ; but governors, garri sons, and besieging forces, were replaced and renewed with a rapidity which showed the frightful ravages of war. The siege became a school for the young nobility of all Europe, who repaired either to the besiegers or the beleagured garrison to learn the principles and practice of attack and defence. Nothing that the military skill of that period could devise was left untried. The struggle was prolonged from 1601 to 1604, and during this period the people who held possession (the citizens of the United Provinces) pro duced such impressions elsewhere as secured for them national reputation, and established their claim to consi deration. Ostend was a costly sacrifice, a great price paid for Dutch liberty.

When the gates were opened at the capitulation, if I remember right, there was hardly a house standing, but all the buildings had been laid in ruins ; the whole town was a confused mass ; the undaunted garrison had scarcely left sufficient footing on which to prolong their desperate defence. The victors marched in on September 22, 1604, over its crumbled walls and shattered batteries ; hardly a vestige of the fort remained; the ditches filled up with the rubbish of ramparts, bastions, and redoubts, left no distinct line of separation beyond the terrible evi dences of destruction. It resembled a vast sepulchre rather than a ruined town, a mountain of earth and broken fragments without a single house in which the wretched remnant of the inhabitants could hide themselves. The slaughter in the various sorties, assaults, and bombard ments had been enormous ; fifty thousand of the Nether landers having been slain in the siege ; and eighty thousand of the Spanish soldiers having fallen before its walls.

Squadrons at sea had given a double interest to the land operations, and the naval superiority of the Dutch had enabled them to throw in renewed succours, as well as to increase the destruction of human life ; — it was surely RECOLLECTIONS. the carnival of war, and the feast of demons. A fearful celebrity or reputation was that which the Spinolas founded at Ostend. Frederick paid the forfeit of his am bition, being killed in combat with the Dutch galleys ; while Ambrose lived to wear the sombre laurels of the con quest, and to receive the eulogies of those who delighted in war. They must both meet all their slain, and stand before Him who is the Judge of the quick and the dead. Ostend, though still a fortress, and forming a link in the chain of defences which were intended to protect Belgium on the side of France, is now only deserving our notice as the Belgian port for seaward passengers from other countries.

As an entrepot for goods it is sinking into decay, since the sea is gradually abandoning the harbour and leaving only a dreary extent of dunes and flat sands reach ing far beyond the tide-mark of the ocean ! The town is so reduced, that I think I am warranted in reckoning its population as not exceeding 12,000 people. Out side of the gate leading to Bruges are the Oyster Parks, reservoirs of salt water filled with oysters, fattening for the Paris market, having been conveyed from the English coast. There is nothing in the vicinity remarkable or re quiring description, except it be the low lying country all around, which having been reclaimed from the sea, the marine sands have been brought under cultivation and rendered in many places exceedingly fertile. In return for the labour expended a large amount of grain is pro duced.