Sketches of a Missionary's Travels in Egypt, Syria, Western Africa, etc

Front matter

SKETCHES OF A MISSIONARY'S TRAVELS IN EGYPT, SYRIA, WESTERN AFRICA, 4<. 4*. BY R. MAXWELL MACBRAIR, AUTHOR OF THE MANDINGO GRAMMAR, TRANSLATOR OF THE GOSPELS, &c. LONDON : PUBLISHED BY SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, AND CO., STATIONERS '-HALL COURT ; AND SOLD BY JOHN MASON, 14, CITV-ROAD, AND 66, PATERNOS rER-ROW. 1839. LONDON : PRINTED BY JAMES NICHOLS, 46, HOXTONjSQUARE. ro THE REV. THOMAS JACKSON, PRESIDENT OF THE WESLEYAN METHODIST CONFERENCE, THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, AS A TOKEN OF PERSONAL ESTEEM AND AFFECTION, 11 Y THE AUTHOR. a

Preface

. The following " Sketches " would probably have appeared before the public at an earlier period, had not those literary pursuits intervened in which the author has been employed in connection with his missionary labours abroad. The translations and other works which he engaged to execute being completed, he now accedes to the wish of numerous friends ih publishing the substance of his diary, after arranging its materials in such a form as might prove interesting to general readers. They are called "Sketches," as being a simple statement of what the author saw and experienced during his peregrinations ; and he wishes just to conduct his readers along with him in his travels, and place them in his" own varied situations, that so they may become acquainted with things as they are, and may thence form their own judgment of human nature. A

PREFACE.

. VI It will, however, be recollected that the writer is a Briton, ardently attached to the religion and institutions of his own country, which, "with all its faults," stands peerless amongst the nations of earth. There is also a moral refinement and virtuous sensitiveness manifested by the bulk of our educated society, and by the pious of all classes, which we in vain look for amongst other great nations of Europe. Hence the contrast between English manners and those of France or Italy. Again : since as a Christian missionary the author went abroad for the express purpose of promoting the true welfare of his fellow creatures, so he naturally feels an antipathy to every thing that mars the happiness of mankind. Whilst the blood of Scottish Reformers and Covenanters flows in his own veins, he inherits an ardent love of liberty and admiration of moral worth : nor can any splendour of rank or fame of illustrious conquests diminish those feelings of abhor rence with which he views all despotism, oppression, and fraud.

The grander the throne of the tyrant, the greater his villany ; for he rises upon the more accumulated ruins of suffering humanity. This will account for

PREFACE.

. VII the views here taken of the pasha of Egypt and the governors of Western Africa. The author had some hesitancy in publish ing that matter which constitutes the two first chapters of this volume. But as it . is probable that comparatively few of his readers have travelled into France and Italy, he thought that some brief sketches by the way would be interesting to the majority : and his travelled friends can easily pass over these pages if they choose. Besides, though much has been written about the continent, com paratively little is known concerning the character of the people, since travellers generally direct their attention to places rather than to men. Every new trait of character that comes within our notice increases our know ledge of the world, and, if properly reflected upon, will add to our wisdom, and perhaps also to our personal profit.

The practical effects of infidelity in France and of popery in Italy are too little considered; and it is strange that politicians and legislators are still so wilfully blind, that they will not open their eyes to see the mighty influence of true religion upon the welfare of a community. To the religious public who are favourable to the cause of Christian missions, the accounts

PREFACE.

. VIII here given of the deplorable state of the unconverted world, and of the glorious suc cess of missionary operations, cannot but be interesting; inasmuch as they practically declare that our "labour is not in vain in the Lord." Every addition to the book of experience, in recording the happy effects, as they develope themselves, of that mighty engine by which vice and misery are prostrated, and by which the heathen barbarian is raised to holiness and civilized blessedness, is of importance to the interests of the human race. And every exhibition of the barriers which opposed this glorious triumph is likewise useful ; that so, when properly known, means may be devised and employed to work their overthrow. In these respects, let the following " Sketches " tell their own simple tale of truth ; and the reflecting reader, before he has finished the perusal of this volume, will perhaps be better acquainted with the world, with the author, and with himself. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Page. Travelling by Sea — French Custom-houses and Passports — Italian Dogana — Wesleyan Mission at Calais — Diligences — Not living at Home — Conducteur — Cheapness of Living on the Continent — Wesleyan Mission in Paris — Haid Travelling — Infidelity .— The Rivers Saone and Rhone Marseilles Inn — Table d'Hote, Cafe, <|-c. — Excuses for not sailing — Insincerity 1 II. Popish Sabbaths — The Coast of Italy — Genoa — Board of Health — A French Trick — Leghorn — Elba — Steam-boat Passengers — A Jesuit — An Infidel — A dear Breakfast — Naples — Its Inhabitants — Pompeii — Herculaneum — Vesuvius — Speronari — Scylla and Charybdis — Messina — The Coast of Sicily 21 III. Malta English Missions — The Sirocco — Popery — A Storm at Sea Zante — Alexandria — A Turkish Chouash — Janissaries Egyptian Cangier — Alexandrian Canal — Wretchedness of the Egyptians — Missionary Prospects — Preaching the Gospel — The Hamseen — Wars and Monopolies of the Pasha — Tombs of the Caliphs — An eastern City — Evening Excursion — The Pyramids — Bedouin Arabs — The X CONTENTS. Page. Nile Moses's Ark of Bulrushes— Watering the Land, and other Biblical Illustrations — Turkish Arrogance — An Adventure Female Heroism 49

CHAPTER IV.

Missionary Operations in Alexandria — Frank Doctors — Voyage to Beirout Tyre — American Missionaries — Beirout and its Inhabitants — Singular Head-dress — Plaiting the Hair Roads, Balaam's Ass, fye The Ant-Lion — The Chameleon Journey to Damascus — Want of Water — Plains of Damascus — Turkish Bigotry — Summary Executions Manners of the higher Classes — Antiquities — Escape from the Plains — Sterility of the Mountains — Noah's Tomb — Sleeping on Horseback — Baalbec, and its Ruins Cedars of Lebanon — Bshirrai — Ehden — Tripoli Unhappy Voyage to Alexandria — Quarantine and Spoglio — Persecutions — Leaving Alexandria— Jerusalem — The Pasha's Wiles — The Druses ....'. 88 V. Asiatic Costume — The Boat's Crew — Mahometan Fits of Devotion — A Nubian — Visits to the Copts — Benesouif — Minii — Melawe — Manfalout — Siout — Aboutig — A Slave-boat Akmin — Girge — Kene — Negadi — Luxor — Thebes Mahometan Superstitions — Ploughing — Ruinous Measures of the Pasha 125 VI.

Second Voyage to Upper Egypt — Mahometan Crew Effects of a Storm — The Copts of Manfalout — Unhappy Travelling — Inhabitants of Luxor — Personal Sufferings Savage Conduct of the Crew — Assouan — Elephantina Syene Philoc — Cataracts of the Nile — Turkish Justice Edfou Esne — The Plague — Mutinous Conduct of the Crew State of Cairo — The Plague in Alexandria — Personal Difficulties connected with it CONTENTS. XI

CHAPTER VII.

Page. The Pasha's Fleet — British Seamen — Lazaret of Malta — A Prodigal — The Maltese Mission — Journey lo England, by Genoa, Piedmont, Mont Cenis, Switzerland, the Rhine, Rotterdam 186 VIII. Appointment to M'Carthy's Island — Origin of the Mission — Native Assistants, John Cupidon, Pierre Sallah — Reception in Africa — Jollofs — St. Mary's Island — Houses — Dress — Wesleyan Mission — Concubinage — British Slavery — Slavery incompatible with Christianity and Civilization — Oppression ofthe Natives — Maraboos — Mangrove-Tree — Devil Worship — A Mandingo Chieftain — Professional Jesters Conversation with Foolas — The Gambia — The dry Season — M'Carthy's Island 201 IX. Influence of Missions — A Foola Visit — Interviews with a Maraboo — A Matrimonial Difficulty — King Kemmingtan — His Cruelties, and Repulse of the British Troops — Jemala — Preaching to Barbarians — Disputes with Maraboos — Foolas — Teucolars — Pastoral Foolas — Original Possessors of the Soil — Loubies — Foola Language — Similarity to the Kaffirs — Their supposed Origin — Mandingo Language — A Slatee — Feudal System of Government — Serfs and Slaves — Domestic Manners — Conversations with the Maraboo of Morocunda — Notices of Timbuctoo and Haussa — Visit to Foola Villages at Broko—Faltota 229 X. An Attack of Fever Conversations with a young Mahometan Visit from the King of Catabar — Another Visit to Broko Daily Engagements — Commotions in the Neigh. bourhood An Example of the Slave-Trade — Missionary CONTENTS.

XII Page. Difficulties New Commotions — Second Visit from the King of Catabar — Foola Women — The Weather — African Servants Drunkenness — A Sabbath Day's Work — Com mencement of the rainy Season — Sowing and Reaping Conversation with Tilibunkoes — A Tornado — Injurious Effects of the Season — An approaching Storm 251

CHAPTER XI.

The Authorities of M'Carthy's Island — A Riot — Demolition of John Cupidon's House — Farther Injuries — Retribution — A Voyage during the Tornadoes — Celestial Phenomena — The Magistrates of the Gambia — A religious Revival Effects of religious Impressions upon the Body — A dreadful Storm — Unwholesome Atmosphere — Noxious Insects, fye 273 XII. Mandingo Translations — A Foola Foday — The Danger of Over-exertion — Mortality amongst British Seamen and Missionaries — Ill-treatment of the liberated Africans 294

Appendix

. No. I. St. Paul's Shipwreck 306 No. II. Letter to the Committee and Secretaries of the Wesleyan-Methodist Missionary Society, respecting the best Method of disseminating the Scriptures in North- Western Africa 3)4 No III. Plan of a Missionary Village and Institution on M'Carthy's Island SKETCHES or A MISSIONARY'S TRAVELS.

CHAPTER I.

Travelling by Sea — French Custom-houses and Passports — Italian Dogana — Wesleyan Mission at Calais — Diligences — Not living at Home — Conducteur — Cheapness of living on the Continent — Wesleyan Mission in Paris — Hard Travelling Infidelity — The Rivers Saone and Rhone— Marseilles Inn Table d'Hote, Cafe, fye Excuses for not sailing — Insincerity. I dislike travelling by sea : not that I am troubled with sea-sickness, — an accident that has not seriously happened to me for several years ; except once when crossing from Cornwall to the Scilly Isles, in a small round vessel pompously called "the Packet;" where many who have braved all the storms of the Atlantic have been obliged, like myself, to surrender to the jolting motion of a little tub : — but there is so much sameness both within and without a vessel, and so few subjects for the exercise of thought or imagination, that I suspect a thorough-bred sailor to be one of the B most easily-lived beings in the world ; enabled to find amusement for his mind, as a Jew procures store for his purse, out of anything or nothing.

For when a student goes to sea, especially on board of a small merchantman, there are so many hinderances in the way of learning, and so few conveniences for scientific pursuits, that he must generally look upon such seasons as being so many blanks in his life-time. How the case may be in a man-of-war or an East-Indiaman, I know not ; as it has always been my lot to sail in smaller craft ; when I have really been often obliged to make the same attempt that other unfortunate persons have done, — to kill time. It was under such feelings as these, that I heard, with no great complacency, the orders given to a clerk of the Mission-house to look out for a vessel sailing to Alexandria, whither I was appointed to proceed as a missionary. Most fortunately, the first that offered for the Mediterranean was quite destitute of accommodation for passengers ; and so I proposed that my baggage sliould be forwarded by her to Malta, where I would engage to meet it in due time, provided the usual passage-money were allowed me to defray my expenses over-land.

Having travelled in France and Italy some years previously, and having learned to peregrinate in an economical manner, I calculated that I should be able to reach Malta by crossing the Continent, almost as cheaply as by taking a sea-voyage of one thousand miles farther by Gibraltar. My terms being agreed upon, I started off for Dover, taking a few books in my box of clothes ; but 1 paid dearly for the carriage of these tomes, for which I had very little use on the way. One volume in the pocket, besides a Bible and hymn-book, will best suit a land traveller's convenience ; and should that volume be read through before his journey's end, he can easily sell it and buy another. On landing at Calais, on the 24th of October, 1833, I went through the usual ordeal of being searched by custom-house officers.

This is a dreadful nuisance to an Englishman : for they not only overhaul your goods but also your person, emptying your pockets like thief-catchers, and cautiously investigating every suspicious article of apparel. I have been told of their opening the lining of ladies' bonnets, and ripping up the pad of their cloaks, and even of their partially undressing them, in case of any suspicious bulkines. of appearance; — of course there are female custom-house officers for this purpose, as they are supposed to be best acquainted with the mysteries of a lady's dress. The only way for a stranger to get on comfortably with these inquisitorials, is to put on a good face, and let them do just as they please ; or else they will cause no little annoyance to the too sensitive traveller. A gentleman informed me, that once, upon entering France, when the officer came to search his person he scorned the indignity of such a proceeding, and dared the fellow to touch him under penalty of being knocked down.

" You cannot go till I have exa mined your dress," the other coolly replied. The Englishman took off his hat, coat, and waistcoat, and gave them to the officer, who next demanded his small-clothes ; when these had been examined, i. the officer was asked if he were satisfied. "There may be something in the folds of your neckcloth, and in the soles of your shoes," was the reply. Thus he finally left the stranger standing in his shirt and stockings; having also taken occasion to pull to pieces every part of his baggage that 'would give him much trouble in putting together again. It is not sufficient to have a passport for France : this only conducts as far as Calais, where it is taken from you, and immediately forwarded to Paris ; and another is requisite for the interior of the country ; this is also inspected again and again, and all a foreigner's motions are strictly observed.

A friend, residing in France, informed me, that the police could tell not only where he dined every day, but what he had for dinner even in his own house. And when you leave France you will find your old passport waiting for you at the barrier through which you must pass ; all your move ments being thus anticipated by government. This may be what Frenchmen call la liberte, but not what an Englishman means by " liberty." We do not, how ever, wish it to be imagined, that the descendants of the Gauls are more inhospitable in this respect than those of the Romans ; but the latter are certainly less troublesome to visitors. Though there are doganas in every part of Italy, the very enumeration of which might startle a traveller, he need fear nothing if he be willing to feed the hungry officers of government.

I have known boxes of contraband goods being conveyed unopened through a dozen Italian custom-houses by paymefit of a few shillings. " Something to drink, and I will save you the trouble of opening your trunks," is the unblushing request which has frequently been made to myself; and when I appeared "as though I heard not," in order to escape giving a bribe, and when, putting the key into my box, I beckoned the inspector to perform his duty, he made signs for me to shut it again, and significantly put his hand to his mouth as if in the act of drinking. And when I still would not understand his meaning, he went away muttering in disappointment, — for I am told that their pay is very small. No thanks, therefore, to the Italian princes for this freedom from trouble, unless it be to their oppressive rapacity, which is naturally enough imitated by their own servants.

As to passports in Italy, they are very annoying : so many stoppages, so many pay ments, and so many inquisitive questions proposed. These latter I would never satisfy, considering that my passport gave quite enough of information, as it contained my name, age, and a description of my person. So that when a book was brought to the different inns for me to fill up an answer to various printed interrogatories, I did so in the most vague manner possible. My profession was set down as that of a gentleman, my usual place of residence as the world, the object of my travels a dash of the pen, and the place of my destination the next large town through which I must pass. The fellows murmured, and begged me to be more explicit ; but I assured them that it was all quite true, and smiled at their discontent ; being secure from all molestation by the possession of an authorized passaporto.

At Calais I soon found out the abode of our mission aries, where I received a hearty welcome. The English mission here had been but recently commenced, yet under the most favourable auspices. In the afternoon some young females requested me to preach at night, themselves engaging to collect a congregation ; and they did so effectually, though there had been preaching on the preceding evening; for a goodly company assembled, on so short a notice, to hear the word of God. How much more interesting and profitable is the first love of a new convert thirsting after an increase of grace, than that frigid apathy which too often marks the character of those who profess to be more expe rienced, and to need less instruction, in the way of righteousness ! On the 26th of October, 1833, I started for Paris by the " diligence," the name given to the stage-coaches of France, though their speed little accords with their appellation.

There are two principal coach-companies in opposition to each other, and the brethren advised me to take my place from that office which they generally patronized, in expectation that a little indul gence would be shown me in the fare. They accordingly went with me to the bureau ; and we were received with all that courtesy which characterizes the French nation. But I have found that a Frenchman's politeness is frequently limited to words and bows. Pretty expressions and scrapes of the foot cost him nothing ; but should good manners come in contact with pecuniary interest, his former professions are not then expected to be remembered. It is different with an Englishman, who is more accustomed to weigh his words, and to attribute some importance to truth and sincerity; and though there are, unfortunately, many exceptions to this rule of character, yet still we stand pre-eminent as a nation for honour and integrity.

On the above occasion I was asked what bagsgasre I had with me ; and when I expressed my fears that its weight might amount to rather more than the small allowance which they usually make to travellers, they told me not to mind so little a matter, as it would be easily accommodated. And so it was, but in a different way from that which I had been led to suppose : for when I arrived at Paris, I was charged ten francs for extra weight of luggage. Expostulation was useless ; for it was set down on the bill at Calais, and the money was accordingly paid. When a similar fate has attended me in England, I have been charged beforehand with the amount ; but in France, they never mentioned it till we reached the end of our destination. This tax falls heaviest upon strangers : since the French have seldom much of a wardrobe, except what they carry upon their backs.

It is common for the finest gentlemen in Paris to exchange their coat, when it is a little shabby, for a new one, paying the difference of value : and shops are kept even in the Palais Boyal for this purpose, where I have seen the operation performed. I have heard that the same is practised with ladies' dresses ; but being a bachelor, I cannot vouch for the truth of such a statement. The diligence is both a stage-coach for passengers and a waggon for goods ; so that it is the most unwieldy concern imaginable. It is made very wide and strong, in order to suit the roads, which are usually paved in the middle, like the streets of our towns. The smooth roads of England are unknown in France, so that the carriages of our gentry are frequently breaking down in the latter country. The diligences have three inner apartments : the first, called the coupe, resembles a post-chaise, capable of containing three persons with ease ; the second, or interieur, holds six ; and the third, or rotonde, has a similar number squeezed within.

A cabriolet is also frequently situated on the top of the coupe. The last is the place of my choice, since it commands the best view of the country, and has constant freshness of atmosphere ; for the natives have seldom many wrappers, and in cold weather they keep the inside in a very impure state of ventilation. The cabriolet used to be also the cheapest place, as no Frenchman would choose it for a seat : but when they found Englishmen readily occupying it, even by preference, they raised its price to that of the rotonde. I do not find that much improvement has taken place in the ordering of these coaches during the last few years. The principal change for the better is to be found in the harness, which used formerly to consist entirely of ropes ; and I have seen six or seven horses driven by the postilion with a single cord attached to one of the leaders.

The horses are docile as dogs, and are chiefly directed by the voice, and the sound of the lash. No body can crack a whip like a French postilion ; since it answers the purposes both of a coachman's lash and a guard's horn ; and in a calm night its sound may be heard at a great distance. But most of the diligences are now equipped with leathern harness and reins, at least at their outfit. Yet as these are seldom cleaned, (why should they, when they will soon be dirtied agam ?) they speedily become rotten, and are then joined together by pieces of rope or cordage, with bits of which the conducteur is always furnished. The latter personage, who supplies the place of our guard, holds a most important office, and is generally of a respectable and trustworthy character. He has the sole command and responsibility of the coach from the time of its setting out till its arrival at the place of destination.

He is entitled to so much per mile from each traveller ; out of which he pays the post-boys according to a legal rate. It would be worth while if the English would follow this example, as it would save a great deal of annoyance to travellers. The routes from Calais to Paris are the most un interesting in the world. There is a constant sameness of scenery, which is also devoid of rural attraction ; no mansions of the gentry, with their parks and rustic adornments, meet the eye ; hedges and patches of plantations are equally unknown. Even the smiling villages of our English peasantry, and the pretty cot tages of her labourers, are wanting in France. Villages indeed do exist, but they are frequently any thing but attractive to the visual and nasal organs of a gentleman. Instead of clean farm-houses, with their neat gardens and well-stocked yards, one occasionally sees a large waggon, in which the peasantry have come from a u distance to prepare the ground or reap the crops.

And even the country-towns have no pretty suburbs and rural seats ; for all the French monde reside in Paris, and in a few other cities of importance. We do not mean by these remarks to infer, that the French are a dirty people. On the contrary, they are very cleanly in their dress and persons, though negligent in every thing else. This arises from the manners of the natives. They cannot be said to live at home, and seem to have no idea of domestic comforts. In some houses, a fire is never lighted, and whole families take their meals abroad in a cafe or restaurateur's. The evening is spent at a dance or a theatre ; and the vacant hours of the day are easily passed at a cafe. Here the Frenchman calls for a glass of eau sucree, (sugared water,) which he declares to be the best refreshment in the world, as well as an universal medicine ; and he sips it with much pleasure, laughing and joking with those around him.

Should company fail in one place, it is easily found in another ; for he cannot live without public society. The French are inexhaustible in their mirth and humour. They can extract subjects for wit and laugh ter out of every thing. This indeed is the but of their education, and the end of their ambition. They excel all others in the art of killing time. Britons are more sedate and less flexible in their temper ; and when they try to imitate their southern neighbours in chit-chatting parties, they often degenerate to down right scandal and malice, which robs the tete-a-tete of all its mirthfulness. Those, therefore, who wish to pass away time in speaking and laughing about nothing, may find it in France to their heart's content. A common reason for English families taking up their abode on the Continent, is a greater cheapness of living.

Not that the conveniencies and comforts of life are always to be procured at a much lower rate, but the same style of living and expensive establishments are not there deemed requisite in order to preserve caste. Yet the vanities and pleasures of this world are certainly to be obtained for less money there than in Britain. Few foreigners can afford to give dinnerparties or expensive entertainments; and they therefore content themselves with music, dancing, and a few sweetmeats. An Englishman will frequently expend on one dinner-party as much as would serve a French man for a whole year's entertainments ; for when the latter invites a friend to dine with him, it is usually in a restaurant, where each pays the cost of his own victuals. Paris has few attractions for me. Having, therefore, visited my old acquaintances in the picture-galleries and museums, I resolved forthwith to proceed on my journey.

I must, however, observe that an English mission has also been commenced here by the Wesleyan Society, which has recently assumed a favourable as pect under the Rev. R. Newstead ; and that I had the pleasure of preaching to a most attentive congregation on a sabbath morning. A brother missionary returning from the East officiated in the evening. To one who has "forsaken all" at the command of Christ, and made himself indeed a " stranger and pilgrim on the earth," these brief visits to a fellow-labourer in the vineyard are refreshing in the highest degree ; and each little hill of Sion is a hallowed Bethel, "the house of God and the gate of heaven." It took me a whole day to hunt after my passport ; since I was informed that it must be countersigned, not only by our own ambassador, and by the French minister and police, but by the ambassadors of all the Italian states at which we should touch.

For I had now resolved to go to Marseilles, and take the steam boat to Naples ; having formerly passed over Mons Cenis, and visited the principal cities of northern Italy. Wishing to see the French rivers, I took my place in the French diligence for Chalons-sur-Saone, choosing my favourite place in the cabriolet. But here I was outwitted by the French : for upon our arrival next morning at Melun, the vehicle was changed; and there being few .passengers for this part of the country, we were put into a little box-sort of a ma chine, and packed together so tightly as to keep us from shaking much about. It had no springs ; and the jolting which took place on the French paved roads was almost intolerable. An Irish jaunting car would have been a velvet cushion in comparison with this conveyance ; and I feared that all my bones would be out of joint before we should reach the end of our journey.