Reconnoitering Voyages and Travels, with adventures in the New Colonies of South Australia, ... including visits to the Nicobar and other islands of the Indian Seas, Calcutta, the Cape of Good Hope, and St. Helena, during the years 1836-38. Embellished by engravings

Front matter

RECONNOITERING VOYAGES AND TRAVELS, WITH ADVENTURES IN SOUTH AUSTRALIA, &c. &c. &c. AK" ATUSTJRAI.IAK" WARRIOR PREPARED POE BATTLE . RECOKITOITERH-TO Bs TTIsE ÆEW C&i&ÆlÆS of Soutb Australia. Scr. kc. &c. BY "W\ H. JLTEI&H. ES©1":115 Turtle Catc-hiag tn- Sentinel Island, — Bay as Mem, IL<D> IT © © SMITH ELDER le C° <6 5, CORNHILL. 18 RECONNOITERING VOYAGES AND TRAVELS, WITH ADVENTURES IN THE NEW COLONIES OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA; A PARTICULAR DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN OF ADELAIDE, AND KANGAROO ISLAND; AND AN ACCOUNT OP THE PRESENT STATE OF SYDNEY AND PARTS ADJACENT, INCLUDING VISITS TO THE NICOBAR AND OTHER ISLANDS OF THE INDIAN SEAS, CALCUTTA, THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, AND ST. HELENA, DURING THE YEARS 1836, 1837, 1838. By W. H. LEIGH, Esq. LATE SURGEON OF THE AUSTRALIAN COMPANY'S SHIP "SOUTH AUSTRALIAN."

ISrabclltsfirtr br* Numerous iEnarabings. - LONDON: SMITH, ELDER AND CO. CORNHILL. 1839. LONDON : PRINTED BY STEWART AND MURRAY, OLD BAILEY. TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE EARL OF CRAVEN, THIS VOLUME OF TRAVELS IS, WITH PERMISSION, RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, BY HIS LORDSHIP'S MOST OBEDIENT HUMBLE SERVANT, W. H. LEIGH. London, May, 1839.

ADVERTISEMENT.

Chapter II. The Voyage

The Start. — Sea-sickness. — Experiments. — Physalia Atlanticus. — Students afloat. — Life at Sea. — Emigrant freaks. — Flying fish. — All animals have their enemies. — Emigrant ships. — Catching sharks. — The Line. — Bathing. — Crossing the Line. — Colour of the sea. — Emigrants at sea. — Tropical clouds ... 7

Chapter III. Tristran D'acunha

Going on shore. — Scenes on landing. — Shooting. — Albatross. — Glass's account. — Unfortunate wight. — Governor's family. — His conduct. — Sail from Tristran d'Acunha 21

Chapter IV. Cape Of Good Hope

Landing, and appearance of the Cape. — Cape scenes. — Hunting for Lodgings. — Mosquitoes. — Government house. — Adjacent scenery. — Hot winds. — Sale by auction. — Appearance of Cape Town. — Meat. — Horses. —Curious fact. — Temptation to emigrants. — Hottentot drivers, — Curiosities. — Visit to Constantia. — Ride among flowers. — Constantia Gardens. — Scenery. — Doomsday book X CONTENTS

Chapter V. The Cape

Page Wine Trade at the Cape.— Proportion of Spirits in Wines.— Cape Slaves; or Apprenticed Labourers. — Hottentots. — Swallows. — Flight of Birds.— Whirlwinds of Sand.— Dutch Beauty . 45

Chapter VI. Voyage Continued

Leave the Cape. — Dreadful Storm. — Albatross-catching. — Sea Birds. — Bad Water. — Mode of purifying it. — Washing. — See Kangaroo Island. — Investigator's Strait. — Temptation to Land. — Loss of a Party who formerly attempted it. — Enter Nepean Bay. — Run aground. — First appearance of Kingscote 52

Chapter VII. Kingscote

Landing at Kingscote. — Emigrant Huts. — Hospitable Reception. — First Day ashore. — Emigrants' feelings. — Dreamers. — Fishermen. — Moore's Journal. — Fertility of Soil. — Interpretation of Dreams. — Curious Information. — Encouraging Prospects. — Wonderful Discoveries. — Tents and Land-clearing. — Sunshine. 60

Chapter VIII. Kangaroo Island

Tents. — Advice concerning them. — Repentance too late. — The disappointed Dock-yard Manager. — Other Instances of Disappointment. — " Can't get out." — Notice of Ejectment. — Refractory Tenant. — Colonial Architecture. — A High Wind. — Bad Faith and Favouritism. — More Disappointments. — Arbitrary Conduct. — Soil.— Clouds of Dust 69

Chapter IX. Kangaroo Island

Blight. — Instructions to Settlers. — Nature of soil. — Bad site of town. — Indigenous productions. — Kangaroos. — Kangaroo hunting. — Natives good retrievers. — Description of two natives. — Fresh game started. — Mosquitoes. — Native method of producing fire. — Delicate banquet Jg CONTENTS. XI

Chapter X. Kangaroo Island

Page Maggot hunting. — Acuteness of the natives in tracking. — Journey back to Adelaide. — Dexterity of natives in climbing trees. — Des cription of the country. — Oppossum. — Account of a domesticated one. — Wallaba. — Bandicoot. — Guano. — Wild-cat. — Snakes. — Re versionary value of leather trowsers. — Sailors' adventure with a snake. — Other reptiles 89

Chapter XI. Kangaroo Island

Fleas. — Salt Lagoons. — Fresh Lagoons. — The Dying Eagle's Legacy. — The Crow. — Wells. — Islander and his Wives. — Adventures in the Bash. — Return to the Settlement. — Ornithology. — Sporting 101

Chapter XII. Kangaroo Island

Arrival of a Whaler. — The Swallow. — Scenery. — Alas ! poor Fusby. — Weddings. — Temperance System. — Governor's Ball. — Price of Mutton. — Cabbage Culture. — An Arrival. — Slave Ship. — Wallaba Soup. — Rogues and Honest Men. — Emigrants no Sinecurists. — The Hermit. — Heat of the Climate . . . .110

Chapter XIII. Expedition Into The Interior

The Start. — Dismal Prospect. — A Night in the Bush. — Governor Wallen's Farm. — Some Account of the Governor. — A Day's Shooting. — The March resumed. — Disappointed of a Shot. — Dead Trees.— Another Night in the Bush.— The Grass-tree. — Human Ant-Eaters. — Return to the Farm.— Wet Lodgings.— Fire Worshippers. — Return. — Battle between Two Scorpions and a Tarantula.— Influenza.— Ants.— Water Spout.— Oysters. — Blow Flies CONTENTS.

Chapter XIV. Voyage To The Main Land

Page Voyage to Adelaide. — Unpropitious Start. — Run a-ground. — Appearance of the Coast. — Port Adelaide. — Scenery. — Plains. — Ap proach to Adelaide.— The City.— Badness of the Site.— Comforts of Adelaide. — Corrobbaree. — Native method of taking snuff. — Introduction to the Wives of a Chief. — Journey to Glenelg. — Brother Jonathan. — River Nymph. — Glenelg. — Return. — The Hermit. — Heat of the Climate 135

Chapter XV The Natives

Courtship. — Jealousy. — Punishment of Adultery. — Brutality of Husbands. — A Murderer denounced. — Odd Mode of Imprisonment. — Murder of Meredith— of Barker — of Cunningham. — Infanticide. — Lying in State. — Charmed Stone. — The Starved Hunter. — Cannibalism. — Ant Banquet. — Whale Feast. — Natives' notion of a Future State. — Characteristics of Natives. — Visit of Two Natives to England. — Effects produced by it on one of them 151

Chapter XVI. Encounter Bay

Pleasant Sail. — Whale Fishery. — Process of cutting up. — Boiling. — Rich Banquet.— The Duello— Thick Skulls.— Soil.— The Murderer. — The Christening. — A frail Raft. — Awkward Encounter with Natives. — Birds. — Fish. — Nature of Rocks. — Bay. — Return to Kangaroo Island 169

Chapter XVIII Sydney

Departure for Sydney. — Perilous Situation. — Courage of a Female. — Botany Bay.— First View of Sydney. — Governor's House.— Cattle-building. — Landing. — Hotels. — Brickfielders. — Fruits. — Botanical Garden. — The Domain. — Price of Land. — Wealthy Convict. — Transportation. — Secondary Symptoms. — Attempts to escape. — Overland Journey to China. — Assigned Servants. — Honest Thieves. — A Morning at (he Police Office. — Flogging. — Newspapers. — Advertisements CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter XIX. Nicobar Islands

Page Embark for Calcutta. — BadWeather. — Nicobar Islands.— Visit from Natives. — Their Visit returned. — Hostile reception. — Awkward Situation. — Barter for Provisions. — Masqueraders. — Return to the Ship. — State Canoe. — Buttons at a Discount. — Natives bad Boatwrights. — Andaman Islands. — Land at Centinel Island. — Guanoes.— Baboon. — Turtle Hunt. — Capture of Two.— Return aboard. — Sail away. — Sandheads of India .... 208

Chapter XX. Calcutta

Entrance of the Ganges. — River Water. — Crocodiles. — Anecdote. — Scenery up the River. — Bazaar and Scenes at Kedgeree. — Garden Reach. — Botanical Gardens. — Arrival at Calcutta. — Landing. — Lodgings. — Calcutta Leeches. — Anglo-Indian Hospitality. — Calcutta as it is. — Magnificence. — Frauds of Servants. — Hindoo Servants. — Hookah smoking. — Reform in India. — Amusements. — Calcutta Movements. — Calcutta Beasties. — Black Hole.— Use of Grease. — Bathing of Natives. — Hindoos. — Description and Character. — Native Insult. — Dingy Wallahs. — Dead Bodies in the Ganges. — Fakeers. — Stroll round Calcutta. — Hindoo Gods. — Burning the Dead. — Impudent Thieves.— Cruelty to Adjutants. 223

Chapter XXI. Calcutta

Scenery beyond Calcutta. — Serampore. — Paper Mills. — Barrackpore. — Banyan Tree. — The Pic-Nick.— Governor's Park and Menagerie. — Adventure. — Jackalls. — Native Home. — Indigo Planters. — Indigo Failures. — Hot Winds. — Indian Natch. — Visit to and Description of the Natch — The Rammohun Doss's House. — Scenes there. — Admiral Von Trump arrives. — Dancing Girls. — Religious Apartment. — Drinking. — Return. — Bazaars. — Curious Circumstance. — Robbery. — The River. — Arab Fight with Hindoos. — Leave Calcutta. — Shooting down the River. — Laughable Affair. — Excursion in the Jungle. — False Teeth. — Jungle Fever. — At Sea. — Good Captains — their Value. — Cape of Good Hope CONTENTS.

Chapter XXII. Saint Helena

Page First appearance of the Island. — James Town. — Unwelcome Visitors. — Landing. — Expedition to Longwood. — Ascent of the Moun tain. — Scenery. — Buonaparte's Tomb. — Military Cicerone. — Longwood House. — Description of the Interior. — Napoleon's Amusements. — New Longwood. — Historical Notices of Saint Helena. — Departure from the Island. — Arrival in England . LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS, 1. Australian Warrior prepared for Battle .... Frontispiece. 2. Turtle catching. — Sentinel Island Vignette. 3. The Natives who found the Kangaroo ... To face page 86 4. A Night Scene in the bush. — Kangaroo Island 105 5. The Murderer of the white man chained to the deck of the vessel 1 74 6. The Author's reception by the Natives on landing at Car Nicobar 208 7. Natives of Car Nicobar Island 211 8. A Scene in the Chief's Hut while buying a Pig NARRATIVE.

Chapter I. Plymouth

Joining the Ship. — Emigration. — Sample of Emigrants. — Anecdote. — England versus Australia. — Australian Scenes. On the 9th October, 1836, I was appointed surgeon to the South Australian Company's barque, " South Australia," destined to convey emigrants to that colony. I had but three days to make the necessary arrangements for the voyage. After taking leave of my friends, I went to Plymouth, where I joined the ship. Friends and relations were continually pulling off, as we lay in the Cat-water, to bid a final adieu to those that, in all human probability, they were never to see again. "We expected to sail every hour, being only just waiting for a favourable slant of wind, to leave Old England far behind. Advantage being taken of our delay at this place, the emigrants were summoned to hear a farewell address, and a little advice, from a rev. gentleman, who took the oppor tunity of recommending to them, whilst on their long B PLYMOUTH. and tedious voyage, to observe that degree of kind ness and toleration towards each other, without which, the voyage, instead of passing rapidly and pleasantly away, would be marked by riot and con fusion.

He advised them not to wrangle about any trifles, when " a soft answer would turn away wrath." They seemed, at the time, to pay attention to the admonition, but I had frequent occasion, during the voyage, to refresh their memories. At the conclu sion of the address, the emigrants, in good English style, partook of the " roast-beef and pudding," to which they did ample justice, and returned on board contented and comfortable. The cabin passengers afterwards were summoned to their dining-room, where we had some beef and pudding, drank toasts, made speeches, &c, and discussed the many ad vantages which Australia possessed over every other colony. All this was very well, but we had the great annoyance of lying in the harbour for six weeks, and, in the crowded and confused state of an emigrant ship, it is, at all times, an event any thing but desirable.

I took advantage of going on shore as much as possible, with my gun, but finding nothing to shoot, I was alternately on board and at my hotel. There was little in Plymouth that interested me ; while the weather, for the most part, was wet and uncomfortable, and I was impatient to be off. I must, however, remark, that the Break-water is one of the most magnificent triumphs of art that I ever beheld — it is well worth going a long journey to visit it. Our little vessel, with so many souls on board, CLASSES OF EMIGRANTS. was an object of no common interest. There were men and women leaving their friends, and their little cots in the sweet village, whose spire they may, perhaps, yet discern " peeping o'er the distant trees." 'Tis true, misfortune may have laid her heavy hand upon them, and the chill blight of disappointment may have withered their patriotism and steeled their hearts ; still the natural love of country and friends is predominant.

Men that emigrate I should take to be divided into two classes : first, those that emigrate from a mature conviction that another land holds forth ad vantages which their own does not possess, and who are resolutely determined to " rough it," come what will ; and these are the people who will find emigration to answer. They will, with due exertion, meet with success, whether they be gentlemen with large families and small capital, labouring men, me chanics, and tradesmen. The second class are those wild visionaries who court any new light, and snatch at any bubble which is more attractive than the last they followed. These restless and dissatisfied beings fancy every one is better off than themselves, and that every land enjoys advantages superior to their own. To such I would recommend the work of that industrious and persevering emigrant, Mr. Moore, which should be read by every one that proposes moving to a new colony.

They will find not only some very valuable information as regards the agriculture of Australia, but the results of his experience during his many struggles and difficulties when he first settled in the colony. In one part he writes thus: "I find in b EMIGRANTS AT KANGAROO ISLAND. emigration but very little of the romance. It is nothing but downright laborious plodding.'''' And, in this observation, as in most others of his work, I do heartily concur. Whilst I was at Kangaroo Island a vessel came in from England, bringing emigrants to South Australia. They were all, without exception, wild flighty young fellows, being about such another cargo as one would expect to have seen unshipped for the service of Donna Maria, Don Miguel, or any other Don, Don Quixote included. It did not require a very clear sight to perceive that they were not the "sort of goods for the market."

However, emigration was all the go, and all their conversation was of bullocks, &c. &c. ; away they packed, and I heard no more of them till about three months after their arrival, when I visited their location, and found these mighty tillers of the soil, all sitting very cozily round a large fire, in a reed hut, smoking their pipes, on the floor, " a-la-grand-Turk." They laughed when I entered, nor could I better retain my gravity, for I never saw such an alteration in men in so short a time. Instead of being the " exquisites" they were twelve weeks ago, they were dirty, shabby, and had a suspicious bandit-like appearance which, as I told them, would make a man pull his cravat an inch or two higher when he found himself in their company. In answer to my jests upon their toilet, they one and all exclaimed, " Oh, what does it matter in such a place as this? — who sees you?"

I naturally inquired how they got on. One an swered, — "Why, I get on queerly ; I get a few pickings out of the kangaroos I kill — look, those are my hounds !" ADVICE. " Well, Tom, and how do you manage ?" — " Why, sometimes I join the hunting, — sometimes I go and dine with B , — sometimes he comes here, and so on." This was the situation of these magni ficos — disappointed at the commencement of their romance. They remained in Adelaide a considerable time, expensive as it then was, spending money which might, if they had chosen, have been laid out very advantageously ; but, like the proud steward of old, " they could not dig." The result was — one became a clerk, another went to Sydney, a third to Launces ton, and there only remained two behind, who were, at my last visit, disposing of the little that remained of their wardrobe.

The others, if they have good luck, will arrive in England 500/. at least out of pocket, and with the satisfaction of being laughed at for their wild-goose folly. I never could recommend thoughtless young men to come out to these young colonies, abandoning the gay dissipation of England for the gloomy wilds of Australia, where nothing but the strictest perse verance can make way. The comforts of society must be disregarded for awhile ; years must elapse before you can think of enjoying the comforts of happy England. The want, not merely of luxuries, but of even the necessaries of life, must often be sub mitted to. Even, after all your toil in preparing your foster-home, are you secure from disappointment, since the long drought to which these climes are subject may destroy all your labour, and leave the once verdant field, upon which you anchored all your hopes, a brown and withered wilderness.

Forget, if it be possible, that you have lived in EMIGRANT'S KITCHEN. England ; forget, at all events, refrain from com paring your native with your adopted country, and then,— with your wife and domestics, your little home, though rude as the huts which held our sturdy forefathers in Britain, you may have many comforts; indeed, I have spent as gay and as happy a night in a hut composed of bark and reeds, or under a log hut, as ever I passed in the vicinity of Turkey car pets, purple and fine linen. There is a peculiar fascination in these scenes — a freedom that exhilarates. There is no idling all the morning among the vanity shops. That delightful part of the day is spent by the women in the more substantial and beneficial occupation of the kitchen. In using the word " kitchen," I should explain that it does not exactly mean a receptacle for fat cooks, fat joints, and greasy scullions ; but a place where one sees a fire, a pot swung a-la-gipsy, a bench, a bundle of wood, perhaps a dog or two lying by the fire — Miss, or Sally So-and-So occasionally cracking a faggot, which her good little brother had been labouring to cut down behind the hut, — a piece of tarpauling over-head, sometimes bounded on the right by the hut, and on the left by thick bush.

This is the kind of kitchen most in fashion in these parts, and when ornamented by the hind-quarter of a kangaroo, or a young wallaba, cuts no insignificant ap pearance about two or three o'clock in the day, when the cloth is laid upon two boards, on trestles, just in the shade of a fine young gum-tree. We will return from this digressive sketch to the thread of our narrative.

Chapter II. The Voyage

The Start. —Seasickness. — Experiments. — Physaliu Atlanticus. — Students afloat. — Life at sea. — Emigrant freaks. — Flying fish. — AU animals hare their enemies. — Emigrant ships. — Catching sharks. — Tlie Line. — Bathing. — Crossing the Line. — Colour of the sea.- — Emigrants at sea. — Tropical clouds. Having at length obtained the wished-for wind, we, at half past four, a. m., on the morning of the 22nd December, 1836, got under weigh. The first inci dent was the unfortunate discovery that we were in a " leaky ship," and that upon one particular tack, she made six inches water per hour. December 24th to the 30th. — We had arrived by this time in the Bay of Biscay, where we had, as usual, ocular proof of what Byron states, that " in that Bay there rolls a devil of a sea." Our poor passengers, affected by the rolling of the vessel, and most of them not having been at sea before, were confined to the>* beds — coffins, I called them, for they were stowed away, as Jack says, like a " Hottentot's toes in a Chinese boot."

There, from illness, and the state of the weather, they were obliged to be battened down, and thus excluded from light and air from above, they were in a most awful plight ; while the cook, having too small a galley and inefficient cooking apparatus, was unable to supply their demands, and thus, unless they were able to stand REMEDY FOR SEA-SICKNESS. on the deck and cook for themselves, they were compelled to keep to the biscuit. Fortunately, this sickness does not last long ; and by the time we made the latitude of Madeira, they were all able to take a stroll on deck. The best remedy that 1 know of for this distressing sickness is, the retaining the recumbent posture. A glass of brandy, with some Cayenne pepper in it, I have often known to succeed in alleviating this truly distressing malady.

Gingerbread, if well made, is a good thing to bring to sea, as it is an article that is generally relished. January 2nd. — We now began to feel the beauties of a southern clime, the clear and golden-eyed day breaking over the sea, as the sun arose from the almost unruffled waters, throwing light and cheerful ness around. This was so welcome to us after our recent rough weather, that we almost forgot our troubles. We, in latitude 37° 9' N. longitude 20°, put over board four bottles with papers in each, stating in Latin, English, French, German, and Italian, our latitude and longitude, and requesting that, wheresoever they were picked up, publicity might be given to the contents. They have not yet been heard of. The result would be curious. The temperature of the sea was 69i° to 70° :— 7 or 8 fathoms down, 60°.

I tried to catch some fish that were alongside, but met with no success. We also tried an old ex periment with bottles. We took three, one being empty, the other two full of fresh water. The corks were all sealed, and a bladder was tied over them. Thus prepared, we lowered them 80 fathoms with EXPERIMENTS. the deep-sea lead. After raising them, in a quarter of an hour, we found that all three corks were forced in. We then prepared three others, and run two sail-needles through each cork, but these also were forced in. I then got a stopper bottle, but that was so broken that only the neck came up ; others came up full of water as secure as we had sunk them. I feel convinced it is nothing but the immense pressure of the water, that produces these results, and not the bottles being porous, but the corks, which, when they are cut, are found to be saturated.

This experiment has often been tried, and puzzled Johnny Campbell, the African traveller, exceedingly, insomuch as to induce .him to have the bottles and their marvellous contents conveyed to England, where, — oh, the inscrutable ways of fate, after all this trouble ! they were broken by the carelessness of an unphilosophical porter who was employed to carry them. January 10th. — We had frequent opportunities of observing that beautiful polypus, the Physalia Atlanticus, and had the good fortune to obtain one. He succeeded in stinging the majority of us ; his beauty having induced us to handle him, a liberty he did not allow without making us rue our curiosity. The feeling was like that produced by nettles, and lasted the whole of the day; it was also communicated even by shaking hands. A book I happened to be reading at the time stung me two days afterwards.

I have remarked, several times, the effect which a voyage has upon animals naturalized on shore. The pigs at first lose their flesh ; their hocks swell, and there is a great weak- EFFECT OF A VOYAGE ON ANIMALS. ness of the legs, in some amounting almost to paralysis. Dogs look pitiful, and are very sick. Ducks and fowls, from being generally so crowded together, experience great mortality — more from want of room than the labours of the butcher, — and take to eating each other's feathers till they are completely plucked. All animals are more or less affected, even to the cabin cat, who stretches and rolls, mewing and clawing in the most melancholy manner ; and man is not exempted, for, even in the calmest weather, there is always a kind of listlessness among pas sengers ; and I felt this peculiar indolence take entire possession of me in spite of all my endeavours to resist it.

Thus, many persons who are about to undertake a long voyage, picture to themselves how gaily the time will pass with them. They have all Scott's novels — what a library ! They are naturally fond of reading — it will be delightful! Besides, they can draw, — time cannot hang heavy with them. Behold these men of high resolves, after having been a week at sea, and recovered from the nausea, — give them fine weather and every thing favourable for the pencil, or the Great Un known, and they will find that " no angel will guide their pencil whilst they draw" aud that in stead of resorting to the novelist, they will walk or lounge about the deck, looking first at the sea, then at the sky, then getting upon the poop, then de scending to the quarter-deck, till the bell rings for dinner. Such is life at sea.

Johnson calls a ship a prison, with the additional chance of being drowned. It is in my opinion worse than a prison, BATTLES AT SEA. for there at least is quietude, a luxury wanting at sea, which the old ballad well expresses in " Oh what a row, what a rumpus and a rioting, Those endure you may be sure who go to sea, A ship is a thing that you never can be quiet in," &c. &c. And a good sailor and sensible man must assuredly be the author of those lines. We continued to enjoy very fine weather, though it was occasionally unpleasantly sultry. In my official capacity I found enough amongst the emigrants to keep me in full activity. Of so many women and children there were always some ailing. Now a little urchin, by a roll of the ship, was pitched down the hatchway, another lurched into the fire, or out of bed; then one had the ringworm, and they all caught it.

Now came a touch of the " Cale donian Cremona," which a Scotch amateur had in troduced from the Highlands! So it went on. There was more trouble with the women and children than with all the rest, including the ship's company. Many a good battle have I seen fought in true Belcher style by some Amazonian lady, whose dear little boy had got into trouble. At first the husbands would interfere ; but latterly they were quite passive spectators, and would exclaim affectionately, when appealed to — " Let 'em have it out." About the middle of January we had the first sight of the flying fish; one of which did us the honour to come on board, and that with such force as to deprive itself of life. It measured about six inches. Its back was very broad, and the colours dark blue FLYING FISH. and silver.

The largeness of the eyes of these fish is very remarkable. While flying, their white bellies glit tering in the sun makes them look not unlike a flock of martins. A specimen of one I since caught measured twelve inches from the tip of one wing to the tip of the other. It is thirteen inches long, breadth of back an inch and a half, of belly one and a quarter ; making it nearly a square fish. On dissecting one, I discovered that from side to side, nearly the whole length of his body, there ran a fine membrane filled with air instead of the usual air bladder. This membrane must greatly contribute to its buoyancy. I do not recollect ever having noticed them move their wings ; they rise out of the water with a jerk — in cline their wings to obtain advantage of the wind, and away they fly, sometimes to the distance of from 150 to 200 yards.

Whether the circumstance of their wings drying* may not have the effect of necessitating them to fall, or whether it be from want of strength, I cannot determine, but I incline to the former opinion, as this member is composed of so fine a membrane, that if it once became dry, it would not properly act. I do not subscribe to the notion that the cause of their flight is the pursuit of their enemies.f nor do I think they are the most harassed of all fish, although they certainly run the additional hazard of the sea birds attacking them, and are a tempting bait for dolphins, bonetas, &c. * Byron in " The Island" is of this opinion. t Bishop Hall remarks—" We may as well say that because lambs jump and frisk about in a meadow, argues that it is because the land be full of serpents." I agree with the learned bishop that it is chiefly their play.

CLOSE STOWAGE. But all fish, nay, every living thing has its ene mies ; and one animal preys upon another, from man himself to a mite in cheese. The great whale, the mightiest animal with which we are acquainted, is pestered with a kind of insect, about the size and very much the shape of the young crab, and, except as regards the tail of the scorpion, resembles that animal. He has also bar nacles sticking on him like limpets to a rock, and a kind of worm as large as one's thumb, enclosed in a bony sheath sticking inch-deep in his skin. To rid himself of these annoyances, he comes into the bays to rub himself against the rocks, and there man is ready to receive and destroy him. It is a beautiful and harmonious provision of nature — millions are sacrificed momentarily to give millions birth ; and they, in their turn, from feeding upon their fellows, become their fellows' food.