A Diary in America, with remarks on its Institutions

Introduction

. After many years of travel, during which I had seen men under almost every variety cf government, religion, and climate, I looked round to discover if there were not still new combinations under which human nature was to be investigated. I had traversed the old con tinent until satisfied, if not satiated ; and I had sailed many a weary thousand miles from west to east, and from north to south, until people, manners, and customs were looked upon by me with indifference. The press was constantly pouring out works upon the new world, so contradictory to each other, and pronounced so unjust by the Amcri- VOL. I. B

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. cans, that my curiosity was excited. It appeared strange to me that travellers whose works showed evident marks of talent should view the same people through such very different mediums; and that their gleanings should, generally speaking, be of such meagre materials. Was there so little to be remarked about America, its government, its institutions, and the effect which these had upon the people, that the pages of so many writers upon that country should be filled up with, how the Americans dined or drank wine, and what descriptions of spoons and forks were used at table ? Either the Americans remained purely and unchangedly English, as when they left their father-land ; or the question required more investigation and deeper research than travellers in their hasty movements had been able to bestow upon it.

Whether I should be capable of throwing any new light upon the subject, I knew not, but at all events I made up my mind that I would visit the country and judge for myself.

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. 3 On my first arrival I perceived little difference between the city of New York and one of our principal provincial towns; and, for its people, not half so much as between the people of Devonshire or Cornwall and those of Middlesex. I had been two or three weeks in that city, and I said : There is certainly not much to write about, nor much more than what has already been so continually repeated. No wonder that those who preceded me have indulged in puerilities to swell out their books. But in a short time I altered my opinion : even at New York, the English appearance of the people gradually wore away ; my perception of character became more keen, my observance consequently more nice and close, and I found that there was a great deal to re flect upon and investigate, and that America and the American people were indeed an enigma ; and I was no longer surprised at the incon gruities which were to be detected in those works which had attempted to describe the country. I do not assert that I shall myself succeed, when b

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. so many have failed, but, at any rate, this I am certain of, my remarks will be based upon a more sure foundation — an analysis of human nature. There are many causes why those who have written upon America have fallen into error : they have represented the Americans as a nation; now they are not yet, nor will they for many years be, in the true sense of the word, a nation, — they are a mass of many people cemented together to a certain degree, by a general form of government ; but they are in a constant state of transition, and (what may at first appear strange) no amalgamation has as yet taken place : the puritan of the east, the Dutch descent of the middle states, the cavalier of the south, are nearly as marked and distinct now, as at the first occupation of the country ; softened down indeed, but still distinct.

Not only are the populations of the various states distinct, but even those of the cities ; and it is hardly possible to make a remark which may be considered as general to a country, where the varieties of

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. 5 soil and of climate are so extensive. Even on that point upon which you might most safely venture to generalize, namely, the effect of a democratical form of government upon the mass, your observations must be taken with some ex ceptions, arising from the climate, manners, and customs, and the means of livelihood, so differing in this extended country. Indeed the habit in which travellers indulge of repeating facts which have taken place, as having taken place in America, has, perhaps unintentionally on their part, very much misled the English reader. It would hardly be con sidered fair, if the wilder parts of Ireland, and the disgraceful acts which are committed there, were represented as characteristic of England, or the British Empire : yet between London and Connaught there is a less difference than be tween the most civilized and intellectual por tion of America, such as Boston and Phila delphia, and the wild regions, and wilder in habitants of the west of the Missisippi, and

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. Arkansas, where reckless beings compose a. scattered population, residing too far for the law to reach ; or where if it could reach, the power of the government would prove much too weak to enforce obedience to it. To do justice to all parties, America should be examined and pourtrayed piecemeal, every state separately, for every state is different, running down the scale from refinement to a state of barbarism almost unprecedented ; but each presenting matter for investigation and research, and curious examples of cause and effect. Many of those who have preceded me have not been able to devote sufficient time to their object, and therefore have failed. If you have passed through a strange country, totally differ ing in manners, and customs, and language from your own, you may give your readers some idea of the contrast, and the impressions made upon you by what you saw, even if you have travelled in haste or sojourned there but a few days ; but when the similarity in manners, cus-

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. 7 toms, and language is so great, that you may imagine yourself to be in your own country, it requires more research, a greater degree of acumen, and a fuller investigation of cause and effect than can be given in a few months of rapid motion. Moreover English travellers have apparently been more active in examining the interior of houses, than the public path from which they should have drawn their conclusions ; they have searched with the curiosity of a woman, instead of examining and surveying with the eye of a philosopher. Following up this wrong track has been the occasion of much indiscretion and injustice on their parts, and of justifiably indignant feeling en the part of the Americans. By many of the writers on Ame rica, the little discrepancies, the mere trifles of custom have been dwelt upon, with a sarcastic, ill-natured severity to give to their works that semblance of pith, in which, in reality, they were miserably deficient ; and they violated the rights of hospitality that they might increase their interest as authors.

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. The Americans are often themselves the cause of their being misrepresented ; there is no country perhaps,.in which the habit of deceiving for amusement, or what is termed hoaxing, is so common. Indeed this and the hyperbole con stitute the major part of American humour. If they have the slightest suspicion that a foreigner is about to write a book, nothing ap pears to give them so much pleasure as to try to mislead him : this has constantly been practised upon me, and for all I know, they may in some instances have been successful ; if they have, all I can say of the story is that " se non e vero, e si ben trovato," that it might have happened.* * Paragraph from a New York Paper. That old, deaf English maiden lady, Miss Marti neau, who travelled through some of the States, a few years since, gives a full account of Mr. Pointdexters' death ; unfortunately for her veracity, the gentleman still lives ; but this is about as near the truth as the majority of her statements.

The Loafing English men and women who visit America, as penny-a-liners, are perfectly understood here, and Jonathan amuses himself whenever he meets them, by imposing upon their credulity

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. 9 When I was at Boston, a gentleman of my ac quaintance brought me Miss Martineatfs work, and was excessively delighted when he pointed out to me two pages of fallacies, which he had told her with a grave face, and which she had duly recorded and printed. This practice, added to another, that of attempting to conceal (for the Americans are aware of many of their de fects), has been with me productive of good results : it has led me to much close investiga tion, and has made me very cautious in asserting what has not been proved to my own satisfaction to be worthy of credibility. Another difficulty and cause of misrepresenta tion is, that travellers are not aware of the jea lousy existing between the inhabitants of the different states and cities. The eastern states pronounce the southerners to be choleric, reckdulity the most absurd stories which he can invent, which they swallow whole, go home with their eyes sticking out of their heads with wonder, and print all they have heard for the benefit of John Bull's calves. B

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. less, regardless of law7, and indifferent as to religion; while the southerners designate the eastern states as a nursery of over-reaching pedlars, selling clocks and wooden nutmegs. This running into extremes is produced from the clashing of their interests as producers and manufacturers. Again, Boston turns up her erudite nose at New York ; Philadelphia, in her pride, looks down upon both New York and Boston ; while New York, chinking her dollars, swears the Bostonians are a parcel of puritanical prigs, and the Philadelphians a would-be aristo cracy. A western man from Kentucky, when at Tremont House in Boston, begged me particularly not to pay attention to what they said of his state in that quarter. Both a Virginian and Tenesseean, when I was at New York, did the same. At Boston, I was drinking champagne at a supper. " Are you drinking champagne ?" said a young Bostonian. " That's New York — take claret ; or, if you will drink champagne, pour it

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. 11 into a green glass, and they will think it hock ; champagne's not right.1' How are we to distin guish between right and wrong in this queer world ? At New York, they do drink a great deal of champagne ; it is the small beer of the dinner-table. Champagne becomes associated with New York, and therefore is not right. I will do the New Yorkers the justice to say, that, as far as drinks are concerned, they are above prej udice ; all's right with them, provided there is enough of it. The above remarks will testify, that travellers in America have great difficulties to contend with, and that their channels of information have been chiefly those of the drawing-room or dinner table. Had I worked through the same, I should have found them very difficult of access ; for the Americans had determined that they would no longer extend their hospitality to those who returned it with ingratitude — nor can they be blamed. Let us reverse the case. Were not the doors of many houses in England shut against VOL. I.

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. an American author, when, from his want of knowledge of conventional usage, he pub lished what never should have appeared in print ? And should another return to Eng land, after his tetchy, absurd remarks upon the English, is there much chance of his receiving a kind welcome ? Most assuredly not ; both these authors will be received with caution. The Americans, therefore, are not only not to blame, but would prove themselves very deficient in a proper respect for themselves, if they again admitted into their domestic cir cles those who eventually requited them with abuse. Admitting this, of course I have no feelings of ill-will towards them for any want of hospi tality towards me; on the contrary, I was pleased with the neglect, as it left me free, and un shackled from any real or fancied claims which the Americans might have made upon me on that score. Indeed, I had not been three weeks in the country before I decided upon accepting no

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. 13 more invitations, even charily as they were made. I found that, although invited, my presence was a restraint upon the company ; every one appeared afraid to speak ; and when any thing ludicrous occurred, the cry would be — " Oh, now, Captain Marryat, don't put that into you book.11 More than once, when I happened to be in large parties, a question such as follows would be put to me by some " free and enlightened individual _" " Now, Captain M., I ask you be fore this company, and I trust you will give me a categorical answer, Are you, or are you not about to write a book upon this country ?" I hardly need observe to the English reader, that, under such circumstances, the restraint became mutual ; I declined all further invitations, and adhered to this determination, as far as I could without cause of offence, during my whole tout through the United States. But if I admit, that after the usage which they had received, the Americans are justified in not again tendering their hospitality to the

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. English, I cannot, at the same time, but express my opinion as to their conduct towards me per sonally. They had no right to insult and annoy me in the manner they did, from nearly one end of the Union to the other, either be cause my predecessors had expressed an un favourable opinion of them before my arrival, or because they expected that I would do the same upon my return to my own country. I remark upon this conduct, not from any feeling of ill-will or desire of retaliation, but to compel the Americans to admit that I am under no obligations to them ; that I received from them much more of insult and outrage than of kindness ; and, consequently, that the charge of ingratitude cannot be laid to my door, however offensive to them some of the remarks in this work may happen to be. And here I must observe, that the Americans can no longer anticipate lenity from the English traveller, as latterly they have so deeply com mitted themselves. Once, indeed, thev could

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. 15 say, " We admit and are hospitable to the English, who, as soon as they leave our country, turn round, and abuse and revile us. We have our faults, it is true; but such conduct on their part is not kind or generous.1'' But they can say this no longer : they have re taliated, and in their attacks they have been regardless of justice. The three last works upon the Americans, written by English authors, were, on the whole, favourable to them ; Mr. Power's and Mr. Grund's most decidedly so ; and Miss Martineau's, filled as it is with absurdi ties and fallacies, was intended, at all events, to be favourable. In opposition to them, we have Mr. Cooper's remarks upon England, in which my coun trymen are certainly not spared; and since that publication, we have another of much greater importance, written by Mr. Carey, of Philadelphia, not, indeed, in a strain of vitu peration or ill feeling, but asserting, and no doubt to his own satisfaction and that of his country-

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. men, proving, that in every important point, that is to say, under the heads of " Security of Person and Property, of Morals, Education, Religion, Industry, Invention, Credit," (and consequently Honesty,) America is in advance of England and every other nation in Europe ! ! The tables, then, are turned ; it is no longer the English, but the Americans, who are the assailants ; and such being the case, I beg that it may be remembered, that many of the remarks which will subsequently appear in this work have been forced from me by the attacks made upon my nation by the American authors ; and that if I am compelled to draw comparisons, it is not with the slightest wish to annoy or humiliate the Americans, but in legitimate and justifiable de fence of my own native land. America is a wonderful country, endowed by the Omnipotent with natural advantages which no other can boast of; and the mind can hardly calculate upon the degree of perfection and power to which, whether the States are even-

INTRODUCTION.

. 17 tually separated or not, it may in the course of two centuries arrive. At present all is energy and enterprise ; every thing is in a state of transition, but of rapid improvement — so rapid, indeed, that those who would describe America now would have to correct all in the short space of ten years ; for ten years in America is almost equal to a century in the old continent. Now, you may pass through a wild forest, where the elk browses and the panther howls. In ten years, that very forest, with its denizens, will, most likely, have disappeared, and in their place you will find towns with thousands of inhabi tants ; with arts, manufactures, and machinery, all in full activity. In reviewing America, we must look upon it as shewing the development of the English character under a new aspect, arising from a new state of things.

If I were to draw a comparison between the English and the Americans, I should say that there is almost as much difference between the two nations at this

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. present time, as there has long been between the English and the Dutch. The latter are considered by us as phlegmatic and slow ; and we may be considered the same, compared with our energetic descendants. Time to an American is every thing,* and space he attempts to reduce to a mere nothing. By the steam-boats. rail-roads, and the wonderful facilities of watercarriage, a journey of five hundred miles is as little considered in America, as would be here a journey from London to Brighton. " Go ahead" is the real motto of the country ; and every man does push on, to gain in advance of his neighbour. The American lives twice as long as others; for he does twice the work during the time that he lives. He begins life sooner : at fifteen he is considered a man, plunges into the stream of enterprize, floats and struggles with * The clocks in America — there rendered so famous by Sam Slick — instead of the moral lessons inculcated by the dials of this country, such as " Time flies," &c, teach one more suited to American feeling : " Time is monev !"

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. 19 his fellows. In every trifle an American shews the value he puts upon time. He rises early, eats his meals with the rapidity of a wolf, and is the whole day at his business. If he be a merchant, his money, whatever it may amount to, is seldom invested ; it is all floating — his accumulations remain active ; and when he dies, his wealth has to be collected from the four quarters of the globe. Now, all this energy and activity is cf Eng lish origin ; and were England expanded into America, the same results would be produced. To a certain degree, the English were in former times what the Americans are now; and this it is which has raised our country so high in the scale of nations; but since we have become so closely packed — so crowded, that there is hardly room for the population, our activity has been proportionably cramped and subdued. But, in this vast and favoured country, the very associations and impressions of childhood foster and ripen the intellect, and precociously rouse the

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. energies. The wide expanse of territory already occupied — the vast and magnificent rivers — the boundless regions, yet remaining to be peopled — the rapidity of communication — the dispatch with which every thing is effected, are evident almost to the child. To those who have rivers many thousand miles in length, the passage across the Atlantic (of 3,500 miles) appears but a trifle ; and the American ladies talk of spending the winter at Paris with as much indifference as one of our landed proprietors would, of going up to London for the season. We must always bear in mind the peculiar and wonderful advantages of country, when we examine America and its form of government; for the country has had more to do with upholding this democracy than people might at first ima gine. Among the advantages of democracy, the greatest is, perhaps, that all start fair ; and the boy who holds the traveller's horse, as Van Buren is said to have done, may become the president of the United States. But it is

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. 21 the country, and not the government, which has been productive of such rapid strides as have been made by America. Indeed, it is a query whether the form of government would have existed down to this day, had it not been for the advantages derived from the vast extent and boundless resources of the territory in which it was established. Let the American direct his career to any goal he pleases, his energies are unshackled ; and, in the race, the best man must win. There is room for all, and millions more. Let him choose his profession — his career is not checked or foiled by the excess of those who have already embarked in it. In every depart ment there is an opening for talent ; and for those inclined to work, work is always to be procured. You have no complaint in this country, that every profession is so full that it is impossible to know what to do with your chil dren. There is a vast field, and all may receive the reward due for their labour. In a country where the ambition and energies

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. of man have been roused to such an extent, the great point is to find out worthy incitements for ambition to feed upon. A virtue directed into a wrong channel, may, by circumstances, prove little better than, (even if it does not sink down into,) actual vice. Hence it is that a democratic form of government is productive of such demoralizing effects. Its rewards are few. Honours of every description, which stir up the soul of man to noble deeds — worthy incitements, they have none. The only compensation they can offer for services is money ; and the only distinction — the only means of raising himself above his fellows left to the American — is wealth : consequently, the acquisition of wealth has become the great spring of action. But it is not sought after with the avarice to hoard, but with the ostentation to expend.

It is the effect of ambition directed into a wrong channel. Each man would surpass his neighbour ; and the only great avenue open to all, and into which thou sands may press without much jostling of each

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. other, is that which leads to the shrine of Mammon. It is our nature to attempt to raise ourselves above our fellow-men ; it is the main spring of existence — the incitement to all that is great and virtuous, or great and vicious. In America, but a small portion can raise them selves, or find rewards for superior talent, but wealth is attainable by all ; and having no aristocracy, no honours, no distinctions to look forward to, wealth has become the substitute, and, with very few exceptions, every man is great in proportion to his riches. The consequence is, that to leave a sum of money when they die is of little importance to the majority of the Americans. Their object is to amass it while young, and obtain the consideration which it gives them during their life-time. The society in the United States is that which must naturally be expected in a new country where there are few men of leisure, and the majority are working hard to obtain that wealth which almost alone gives importance

INTRODUCTION.

. under a democratic form of government. You will find intellectual and gentlemanlike people in America, but they are scattered here and there. The circle of society is not complete : wherever you go, you will find an admixture, sudden wealth having admitted those who but a fewyears back were in humble circumstances; and in the constant state of transition which takes place in this country, it will be half a century, perhaps, before a select circle of society can be collected together in any one city or place. The improvement is rapid, but the vast extent of country which has to be peopled prevents that im provement from being manifest. The stream flows inland, and those who are here to-day are gone to-morrow, and their places in society filled up by others who ten years back had no prospect of ever being admitted.

All is transition, the waves follow one another to the far west, the froth and scum boiling in the advance. America is, indeed, well worth the study of the philosopher. A vast nation forming, society

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. 25 ever changing, all in motion and activity, nothing complete, the old continent pouring in her surplus to supply the loss of the eastern states, all busy as a hive, full of energy and activity. Every year multitudes swarm off from the East, like bees : not the young only, but the old, quitting the close-built cities, society, and refinement, to settle down in some lone spot in the vast prairies, where the rich soil offers to them the certain prospect of their families and children beng one day possessed of com petency and wealth. To write upon America as a nation would be absurd, for nation, properly speaking, it is not ; but to consider it in its present chaotic state, is well worth the labour. It would not only ex hibit to the living a somewhat new picture of the human mind, but, as a curious page in the Philosophy of History, it would hereafter serve as a subject of review for the Americans themselves. It is not my intention to follow the indivi- VOL. I. c

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. dualising plans of the majority of those who have preceded me in this country. I did not sail across the Atlantic to ascertain whether the Americans eat their dinners with two-prong iron, or three-prong silver forks, with chopsticks, or their fingers; it is quite sufficient for me to know that they do eat and drink ; if they did not, it would be a curious anomaly which I should not pass over. My object was, to examine and ascertain what were the effects of a democratic form of government and climate upon a, people which, with all its foreign admixture, may still be considered as English. It is a fact that our virtues and our vices depend more upon circumstances than upon ourselves, and there are no circumstances which operate so powerfully upon us as government and climate. Let it not be supposed that, in the above assertion, I mean to extenuate vice, or imply that we are not free agents. Naturally prone to vices in general, circumstances will

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. render us more prone to one description of vice than to another; but that is no reason why we should not be answerable for it, since it is our duty to guard against the besetting sin. But as an agent in this point, the form of govern ment under which we live is, perhaps, the most powerful in its effects, and thus we constantly hear of vices peculiar to a country, when it ought rather to be said, of vices peculiar to a government. Never, perhaps, was the foundation of a nation laid under such peculiarly favourable auspices as that of America. The capital they commenced with was industry, activity, and courage. They had, moreover, the advantage of the working of genius and wisdom, and the records of history, as a beacon and a guide ; the trial of ages, as to the respective merits of the various governments to which men have sub mitted ; the power to select the merits from the demerits in each ; a boundless extent of country, rich in every thing that could be of advantage c

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. to man ; and they were led by those who were really giants in those days, a body of men col lected and acting together, forming an aggregate of wisdom and energy such as probably will not for centuries be seen again. Never was there such an opportunity of testing the merits of a republic, of ascertaining if such a form of government could be maintained — in fact, of proving whether an enlightened people could govern themselves. And it must be acknowledged that the work was well begun ; Washington, when his career had closed, left the country a pure republic. He did all that man could do. Miss Martineau asserts that " America has solved the great problem, that a republic can exist for fifty years ;" but such is not the case. America has proved that, under peculiar advantages, a people can govern themselves for fifty years ; but if you put the question to an enlightened American, and ask him, " Were Washington to rise from his grave, would he recognise the present govern ment of America as the one bequeathed to them ?"