Continental Travel; with an appendix on the influence of climate, the remedial advantages of travelling, etc

Appendix

ON THE INFLUENCE OF CLIMATE, THE REMEDIAL ADVANTAGES OF TRAVELLING, __V. By EDWIN LEE, Esq., MTMBEtl OF THE PEINCirAL EUROPEAN MEDICAL SOCIETIES, &C. " Dico di quel che non sapcte forse." — Abiosto. LONDON: W. J. ADAMS, 59, FLEET- STREET. 1848.

Preface

. The present volume is adapted for home reading as a book of travels, as wed as for an indicator to the continental visitor or valetudinarian; giving an account of local peculiarities and the leading objects of interest, without entering into the ordinary detads of guide-books, and dwelling more particularly upon points which have reference to health:* the author's object being to impart condensed information relative to those parts most frequently visited, from which may be formed a more correct appreciation of their advantages, as compared with our own country, than is usuatiy the case. The work may, in fact, be regarded as an improved edition of one which appeared some years ago, and was very favorably received, entitled " Memoranda on France, Italy, and Germany," subsequent visits * Information respecting modes of conveyance, hotels, &c, may be derived from Bradshaw' s Continental Railway Guide, which is issued monthly.

PREFACE.

. abroad having enabled the author to alter and adapt it in accordance with his increased oppor tunities of observation, and to the circumstances of the present times, respecting which he has offered such comments as the recent course of events seemed to justify. In the Appendix are subjoined remarks on the general influence of climate and traveding, as also on some prevalent causes of disordered health among the upper classes of society, which so often necessitate a recourse to these and other remedial means of relief; and if, by directing attention to these causes, the author can be at ad instrumental in preventing the frequently irremediable consequences which their persistance entads, he will derive much satisfaction from the consciousness that his endeavours have not been useless. London; August, 1848.

POSTSCRIPT. The recent course of events has tended to corroborate the opinions expressed in the text — France having passed through one of the phases of republicanism, and being now subject to a military dictator, which may be considered as the prelude to the re-establishment of the mo narchy at no very distant period.* The reverses of the King of Sardinia, in Northern Italy, will most probably give rise to French intervention (as soon as the troops can be with safety spared from France, inasmuch as occupation must be found for the large army, and a vent for the turbulent), with the probable idtimate annexation of Savoy to the French territory ; but, as Austria now forms part of the general league, a collision with that power must entail war with Germany. At Rome the power of the Pope is becoming more and more circumscribed.

August, 1848. * The Westminster Review, in noticing the proof sheets of this work, before publication, observes, " The truth of the author, observations (as respects France) has been manifested during the late deplorable events in the French capital." LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. ROME, FROM THE TIBER (Page 113) To face Title Page. PAU Page 60 NICE „ 76 PLACE OF THE GRAND DUKE OF FLORENCE „ 96 KARLSBAD „ 237 DRESDEN „ CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Routes to Paris — Boulogne —Paris — French Characteristics — Recent Changes — Climate and Medical Practice . . . Page 1

Chapter II

Lyons — The Rhone — Marseilles — Climate of Provence — Hieres — Cannes Nismes — Montpelier — Canal du Midi . . . . 19 CHAPTER HI. Toulouse — Pyrenean Baths — Bagneres de Luchon — Bagneres de Bigorre — Lourdes — Vale of Argeles — The Cagots — Bareges — St. Sauveur — Gavarnie — Cauterets and its Mineral Springs 38

Chapter XII

Nuremberg — Franconian Switzerland — Bohemian Baths — Franzensbad — Marienbad — Carlsbad — Prague — Teplitz — Dresden . . 230 CHAPTER XIH. Leipsic — Homœopathy — Berlin — Hamburg — Weimar — Kissingen — Frankfort — The Bergstrasse — Baden Baden — Stuttgard . 253

Chapter XIV

Nassau Baths — Wiesbaden — Schlangenbad — Schwalbach — Ems — The Rhine — Aix la Chapelle — Spa — Brussels — Antwerp — Calais 275

APPENDIX.

. Remarks on the Influence of Climate and Travel, and on some Prevalent Causes of Disease ....... THE CONTINENTAL TRAVELLER AND INVALID'S HAND-BOOK.

Chapter I. Routes To Paris

— BOULOGNE — PARIS — FRENCH CHARACTERISTICS — RECENT CHANGES— CLIMATE, AND MEDICAL PRACTICE. Considering Paris as the first point to be reached by the traveder proceeding southward, each of the routes presents its advantages. That by Brighton and Dieppe is the most direct, but the sea passage being of five or six hours' duration, the communication is much less frequent than across the narrower parts of the Channel, and in the winter months is altogether interrupted: the entrance to Dieppe harbour is not very good; and, on account of there being no harbour at Brighton, the landing and embarkation there is not always practicable, in which case passengers have to land at Shoreham. Dieppe is a neat town of 16,000 inhabitants; the Grande rue, running through to the port, contains the best hotels, and in the season has a cheerful and animated appearance.

The port is spacious, and n ROUTES TO TAEIS. is commanded by a citadel and castle. The principal inducement Dieppe presents for the temporary sojourn of strangers is the bathing, this being the nearest sea-bathing estabdshment to Paris. The baths are under the superintendence of a physician inspector, as at the other sea and mineral bathing-places in France. Between Dieppe and Paris the country is agreeably diversified, the road passing through the most fruitful part of Normandy, and the journey by railroad from Rouen being made in about four hours. Except the cathedral, St. Ouen, and the quays, there is little to interest the passing traveder in this city. Between Dieppe and Havre the scenery of the Seine is, however, of the most interesting description, especially where the river widens out, near Qudlebœuf.

This is an inducement with some to prefer the Havre passage from Shoreham, which lasts about an hour and a-half longer. This is one of the finest ports of France, admitting the largest vessels, and regularly com municating with America, St. Petersburg, and other important points. There is at Havre a smad English colony, and the establishment Frascati presents some resource for recreation. Most of the merchants and English residents tive at the large suburb Ingonville. The objection to a long trajet will, however, always induce the great majority of travellers to prefer the two hours' passage between Folkstone or Dover, and Boitiogne and Calais, especially as the railroad is BOULOGNE. 3 now open from the former town to Paris, which may be reached in about eight hours. Boulogne is an agreeable town for a short residence in the summer season, and has been of late years a good deal resorted to by families from England, on account of sea bathing, which is excellent, a fine sandy beach extending at low water eastward of the port, which has been greatly improved by the construction of a jetty along the ridge of rocks that formerly rendered the entrance less safe.

The streets are clean, wide, and have an animated appearance; and several of the shops are handsome. The lower town lies at the base and up the acclivity of a steep lull, on which stands the high town, inclosed by ramparts, planted with trees, and forming an agreeable promenade, whence extensive views may be obtained of the surrounding country. The population amounts to thirty thousand; many rentiers reside in the high town, whdst the inhabitants of the lower town are for the most part engaged in commercial and professional avocations, are lodging-house keepers, or connected with the port. The environs are agreeable, and the ah* is tight and bracing, but the winter is generady severe, on account of the northern aspect and unsheltered position of the to wn, and cold winds and storms are of frequent occurrence.

Boulogne is, however, on the whole, a healthy place of residence, and generady agrees well with children, though it would not be an advisable place for delicate ROUTES TO FARIS. persons, or for those who are " servile to skyey influences." The resident English population usuatiy averages, hi peaceful times, between three and four thousand, many being induced to select it for an abode on account of its neighbourhood to England, its comparative cheapness, and the facilities for education. There are also several officers on half pay, and some whose means of existence are more problematical. Boulogne is also often referred to as a place of resort for those who are under the necessity of a temporary or prolonged absence from England; the society has consequently acquired the reputation of not being the most select.

The superior class of the Boulognese are generally courteous in their demeanour; the lower orders are for the most part sober, good-tempered, though at times em portes, fond of gaiety and dancing, and ci .il to strangers; the women are strong, and work hard. Boulogne possesses a tolerable museum and reading-room, where the English papers are dady received. The most usual lounge is on the port and jetty to watch the arrival and departure of the packets. Nothing is lost, as regards scenery, in j ourneying by railroad to Paris, the country being, for the most part, a continued succession of hid and dale, and though generally productive in corn, is but scantily wooded, and offers but little to interest the traveller. The few chateaux seen on the roadside are most of them formal looking ABBEVILLE AMIENS ST. DENIS. and cheerless, and the absence of detached cot tages are characteristic of the more gregarious habits of the people.

The pleasures of rural life, and the country house society, so universal in England, are but little known or appreciated; field sports being comparatively little followed in France, landed proprietors, consequently, seldom reside on their estates for more than a few weeks in the year, the great majority preferring the attractions of the capital, the larger provincial towns, or the watering-places. The French peasantry are generally robust, and more sober than the English, living principally upon bread, vegetables, milk, and bad wine, and eating meat only once or twice in the week ; the vtilages and hamlets in which they congregate, though im proved in appearance of late years, look anything but attractive. The dull town of Abbeville contains nothing of interest but its fine cathedral. The same may be said of Amiens, which, however, is a more tolerable jdace of residence.

Beauvais, which is at some distance from the line, lies in a more agreeable part of the country and has a more cheerful aspect. Its cathedral and. the tapestry manufactory are worth visiting. At St. Denis the fine old cathedral, and the tombs of the kings of France in its vaults, wdl be A'iewed with interest, and will wed repay the time occupied in an excursion from the metropolis. Few cities stood in greater need of improve- PARIS ment than did Paris some years ago, and there is perhaps none in which so much has been effected in so short a space of time. New quarters have arisen in various directions; numerous streets have been widened, and foot-pavements added; and the greater cleanliness both in and out of doors, as well as the improved accommodation generady, render the meaning of the word comfort (which the French language has adopted) now better understood.

The speedy completion of several new edifices and pubhc works is in great measure owing to the ex-King, who, it is said, contributed largely to the embellishment of the capital. Standing near the obetisk, in the Place de la Concorde, the stranger may enjoy a coup d'œil unique in its kind. The splendid appearance of the Place, and of its two fountains, the view of the bridge and Chamber of Deputies, of the beautiful newly-erected facade of La Madeleine, of the gardens and palace of the Tuileries, and of the magnificent arch of Neutily, seen through the vista of the Champs Elysees, will leave an inde lible impression upon the memory. Another view, scarcely to be equaded in Europe, may be obtained from either of the bridges opposite the Tuileries. The extent of this palace and the Louvre (near half a mile), the spacious quays teeming with life, the light cheerful aspect of the houses, the two branches of the river passing between the Pont Neuf, and having enclosed the PARIS He de la Cite, uniting into one broad stream, with the venerable towers of Notre Dame, rising high above the surrounding buddings, form an ensemble which could hardly fad to attract the attention of the most indifferent spectator.

The visitor wid also be highly gratified by the panorama of the city displayed from the summit of Notre Dame, or of the arch of Neuilly, the clear ness of the atmosphere on a fine day enabling him to see the whole at a glance. If the city have undergone great changes within the last twenty years, still greater had taken place in the demeanour and character of its inhabitants. Paris, and indeed France in general, coidd not, even before the recent change from a monarchy to a republic, have been termed with propriety the " Gay, sprightly land of mirth and social ease, Pleased with itself, whom all the world can please ;" for instead of the polite, tight-hearted people of former days, one more frequently met with serious, anxious, business-like countenances; vivacity had given place to a sedate demeanour, and to com parative taciturnity, and brusquerie was not un frequently witnessed in public places.* The * " My first impression of the French character," says Mr. Matthews, " is, that it must be greatly changed from that gay and lively frivolity of which we used to hear so much.

My fellow-passengers are serious and reserved; each man seems to suspect his neighbour, and at the tables d'hote, where I have dined and supped during my route, the company could not have been more silent and sombre if the scene had been laid in England in the month of November." — Diary of an Invalid. PARIS love of self appeared in a more prominent light, the acquisition of money being the object of the great majority of ad classes, and there are few strangers but have had to complain of the greater disposition to take advantage on the part of the tradespeople, and others with whom they were brought into eontact. The women were not free from this reproach, being often more exigeantes than the men. Titles of nobility being no longer hereditary, were but tittle estimated, wealth being the idol to which most bowed.

Among the upper classes the talent of conversation is possessed in a high degree, and egotism is at least more vetied by the exterior forms of politeness ; the essence, however, which consists not merely in a courteous demeanour, but in doing civil and kind acts without interested motives, even though it may be at some personal inconvenience, is much more rare at the present day. The fodowing observation of Mr. Matthews, as regards the difference of manners between the French and certain individuals among the English, is still pretty correct : — " There is in France a universal quickness of intedect and apprehension, and a perfect freedom from that awkward embarrassment of manner which is in England, I believe, denomi nated clownishness. As far, therefore, as the mere outward ah of good breeding goes, almost every Frenchman is wed bred, and you may enter into conversation with a French servant or cobler upon any of the topics that are common to the PARIS mixed company of rational and intelligent people ad over the world, without any fear of being disgusted by coarseness or vulgarity."

The great majority, especially of the upper class of Parisians, has been, in fact, educated more with reference to society than to domestic life, if the thronged reunions and liasons de salon can be called society, where there is generady little else than a " Commerce exte'rieur, union sans penchant, Que fait naitre l'usage et non le sentiment;" Where " L'esprit vole toujours sur la superficie, Et le coeur ne se voit jamais de la partie.' And this desire of shining in society leads the French (as also foreigners in general) to cultivate the art of pleasing more than the English, though the exercise of the said art is too frequently restricted to society, without being carried into the family circle. Thus, the Frenchman generady possesses a greater variety of information, and can converse more readily upon most subjects (though his knowledge of them may not be very profound) than the Englishman, whose time at codege has probably been more occupied by his classical studies, to the neglect of other more available knowledge, or else in more practical occupations.

To the same cause may be ascribed the greater reputation of foreigners for gadantry, and the compliments which they so commonly introduce FRENCH SOCIETY. (sometimes without much delicacy or discrimina tion) in their discourse with the fair sex; and though these are seldom adopted by Englishmen, it must be confessed that the introduction of the more easy manners and codoquial powers of the French would go far towards removing the insipidity attendant on some crowded meetings where the company is exclusively English, and the conversation not the most spirituelle. Thus, as may be supposed from their greater disposition to enjoy the present, and effleurev les choses de la vie, the French are more agreeable as acquaintances than the English, who, however, are generady more to be depended upon as friends, or where any service is required.

The influence of religion is almost nuti among the largest proportion of the population of most parts of France, and that of the moral principle is not very powerful, both good and bad actions being more frequently performed from impulse, or in accordance with the dictates of interest or pleasure, than from reflection, or from a due regard to .vhat is right or wrong, which, from being inculcated at an early age, is more universal in England. Personal courage and an exagge rated idea of the superiority of France and Frenchmen over ad other nations, as wed as a great susceptibdity to anything which is con sidered to affect the national or individual honour, are universal among ad classes ; hence the reach ness to have recourse to arms, and the greater FRENCH SOCIETY. 11 frequency of duels to settle disputes and misdeeds affecting society, which in England (where the dread of moral responsibility and of the law operates as a salutary restraint upon personal conflicts) are frequently arranged by apology, or are submitted to the decision of the judicial tribunals.

Even among common soldiers in France, when disputes cannot be arranged, a duel with the sword is a frequent consequence. The love of pleasure, which pervades all classes in France to a much greater extent than in England, is not always of the most refined nature : hence a morbid craving for excitement and novelty is engendered, and a vitiated taste is acquired, to which writers and dramatists of considerable talent have not scrupled to pander and to keep alive, by the reiterated narration of crimes and horrors, which, from the novel and outre combinations in which they were presented to the public, must have caded forth not a little inventive power. It must not, however, be supposed that ad were thus infected, for there is a large proportion of the upper and middle orders, among the French population, as estimable as could be found in any country, whom these productions inspired with disgust and pity; and the writings of Chateau briand, Lamartine, and De Vigny, were eagerly perused, even by many of those who delighted in the creations of Victor Hugo or Georges Sand.

It is, however, gratifying to perceive that this taste had of late greatly subsided : the dramas of WAR PARTY. Lucrece Borgia, Marion de L'Orme, the Tour de Nesle, and similar performances, having been but seldom exhibited on the stage, being superseded by the historical plays and comedies of Delavigne, Scribe, and others of the same school. The classical drama of Racine and Comeide has also been more in favour of late, which, however, is mainly to be attributed to the talent of Madtie. Rachel ; but the taste is not likely to last long, unless actors should arise, capable, like Talma, of embodying the characters represented by these great poets, whose productions are better adapted for reading in the closet than for exhibition on the stage, where the lengthy recitations are apt to be monotonous.

A thirst of military renown and acquisition by force of arms, is strong in the minds of a large section of the population of France (independently of the army,) who have the recodection of the brilliant career of Napoleon, and of individuals raised from obscure stations to the rank of colonels, generals, and field-marshals, without the accom panying reflection of the devastation and misery inflicted upon other nations, and which the conscription and occupation by foreign armies subsequently entailed upon their own country. Such persons, many of whom may be likened to the conspirators against Augustus, referred to by Cornetile, who, " Si tout n'est renvcrte ne sauraicnt subsister, " WAR PARTY. dazzled by their ideas of national superiority, are led to entertain the supposition of a successful career of conquest as heretofore: a circumstance not likely to happen in the present day, even were another Napoleon to arise and take the command of their armies.

A large proportion of the upper, and almost the whole of the commercial class, are, however, well disposed towards England, being wed aware of the advantage to both countries, but especiady to their own, of the continuance of peace; and also knowing that they could not expect to meet with firm aides in either of the other three great powers. The peace party, though perhaps the most numerous, are unfortunately the least active (in a political point of view) portion of the community; and few persons who have marked the course of events, can doubt that the preservation of peace since the revolution of 1830 was in great measure owing to the sagacity and firmness of the King, who, however, so far avatied himself of the war cry a few years ago, as to obtain the completion of his project of surrounding Paris by fortifications, under the pretext of defence in the event of the approach of hostile armies, but in truth as a means of ensuring the durability of his dynasty, by the power of controlling the fauxbourgs, and of commanding the city.

These works were completed with great rapidity, before many of those who were in favour of their erection could become awakened to their true purpose, which they did not fail to be when Ii RECENT CHANGES. the expenses came under the consideration of the Chambers. These were so great as to occasion considerable dissatisfaction, which gave rise to the jeu de mots — Le mur mutant Paris rend Paris murmurant. Had the King died, or fatien by the hand of an assassin, France would, in ad proba bdity, long ago have been at war, or in a state of internal revolution, which the vent afforded by the occupation of Algeria in some measure tended to prevent, and to avert which, it is not unlikely that, when no longer able to contain the disaf fected within bounds, their rulers may adopt the alternative of war, acting upon the principle recommended by Shakspeare's Henry the Fourth to his son, to " busy giddy minds with foreign quarrels," and in this way relieve themselves from some of the turbulent spirits by which their political existence is constantly endangered.

The above remarks, having already been pub lished in the work referred to, appear to be borne out by the course which events have taken within the last three months. The paucity of religious and moral feeling in the bulk of the population — the pernicious influence of the style of literature and of the drama, for some years past, upon the higher as wed as upon other classes (as exem plified in the Praslin tragedy) — the universal and often dishonourable competition for wealth, as the means of pandering to artificial excitement — the consequent corruption and peculations in the government — the additional taxation, in order to RECENT CHANGES. 15 create places for the support of the late dynasty — are so many causes which have been gradually tending to subvert the former order of things, though the change was accelerated by the deficient firmness of the King (since the death of his sister) at the critical moment of trial — dismissing his minister and appointing another, by whom an order was conveyed to the general in command of the troops not to act against the people, of which the republican party were not slow to avail themselves, and instead of removing a minister to overthrow the monarchy.

The national guard, moreover, did not readily or hi great numbers obey the rappel, both on account of the unpopularity of the government and trusting that the presence of the military and of the armed forts would suffice to control the lower classes and prevent a forcible revolution; so that the very means which, for a series of years, had been cautiously and circuitously raised, as calculated to produce security, had no small share in causing the opposite effect. There being likewise, on the part of the troops, neither loyalty nor affection toAvards the reigning monarch (as there Avould be tOAvards a general who could lead them to victory), he found, too late, that Avhen left to act for themselves, no support was to be expected from them. The Aiolent entry of the populace into the Chamber of Deputies, and the establishment of a republic amidst tumult, could not fail to produce its effect in destroying credit, paralysing commerce, and CLIMATE OF PARIS. driving from the capital foreigners and persons of property.

Paris consequently, Avith its boule vards bare of trees, the absence of equipages in the streets, the numerous processions of the populace, the anxious countenances of the bour geosie, the scantily attended theatres, iioav presents a very different aspect from that of former days, and Avid present but feAV inducements for a pro tr acted sojourn tid the country has passed through the ordeal of revolution, the termination of Avhich Avid most probably be in the re-establishment of monarchy, to Avhich form of government the great bulk of the more influential inhabitants are strongly disposed. The recent demonstration of four hundred thousand troops, national guards, and citizens, defiling before the proAdsional go vernment, affords, hoAvever, sufficient guarantee for the maintenance of order, and a protection against the designs of the Communists.

With respect to climate, the chief advantage Avhich Paris has over London consists in the greater purity and dryness of the atmosphere, its freedom from smoke and fog, and in the weather being less variable from day to day. The summers are hotter, and the Avinters equatiy cold if not colder. The average quantity of rain which falls throughout the year is about as great in the one as in the other capital. It Avould not, therefore, be advisable to select Paris as a Avinter residence for delicate invalids, or those Avhose cases require attention to climate. It agrees, hoAvever, very CLIMATE OF PARIS. 17 wed with many dyspeptics, to Avhom the light cookery of the French cuisine is better suited than the more substantial fare usually met Avith in Britain, Avhich requires greater po .vers of digestion, provided always that this class of invalids abstain from ragouts, rich sauces, indigestible vegetables, as truffles, and from partaking of a variety of Avines.

The A-aletudinarian who labours under depression of spirits, combined with disordered digestion, would likeAvise frequently find himself better after a feAV weeks' sojourn in Paris, Avhich offers more resources for mental relaxation and amusement than any other city. Baths are also more general, Avhich is a great advantage, for there can be no doubt that the neglect of this means of keeping the functions of the skin in a proper state is the occasion of many of the com plaints most frequently met Avith in England. Among the most prevalent diseases of Paris may be enumerated inflammations of the respiratory organs, consumption, typhoid fevers, intermittents, rheumatism, scrofula, and various forms of dyspepsia. Apoplexy, paralysis, and nervous diseases in general appear to me to be less frequent than in England.

As the treatment of disease presents considerable differences (into the consideration of Avhich I have fully entered in another Avork*) in England and on the continent, the English abroad usually prefer being attended by medical men of * Observations on the Medical Institutions aud Practice of France, Italy, and Germany. C MEDICAL PRACTICE. their o .vn country, and at almost ad the conti nental to .vns of resort, one, tAvo, or more practitioners reside. There is besides always a certain number of medical desœuvres going about the continent, from one place to another, and some of these individuals, who take the name of English physicians, have but little claim to the confidence of the public, as every body is not aAvare that the title of doctor of medicine (Avhich does not confer the right to practice) may be obtained Avith very little trouble from certain foreign universities, Avhich require little else than the payment of the fees.

Traveders, therefore, when they hear speak of Doctor So-and-So, Avtil do Aveti to ascertain, before entrusting themselves to their care, how far they are qualified to support the title they assume. It must be admitted that in England, where the habit of energetic medication prevads more than elsewhere, chugs are often prescribed when not indicated, and much injury is thus done in many chronic diseases, especiady in the dyspeptic and nervous complaints, with which so great a proportion of. the inhabitants of large towns are afflicted. Continental practitioners frequently manage these cases better by means of mild remedies, baths, mineral waters &c, which, how ever, have been latterly more universady employed in England than heretofore.