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Bradshaw's Companion to the Continent; a descriptive handbook, etc

Edwin Lee · 1851 · Scanned text

66,208 words · about 4 h 38 min to read

Period artwork: Interior of the Bodleian Library, 1845
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About this book

Author
Edwin Lee
Language
English
Published
1851
Length
66,208 words · about 4 h 38 min
Sections
13 reader sections
Text
Scanned text, read from page scans by OCR; may contain errors
Rights
Public Domain Mark 1.0

 

Contents (13)
  1. Front matter under 1 min
  2. Preface about 4 min
  3. Appendix under 1 min
  4. Chapter I about 13 min
  5. Chapter II about 35 min
  6. Chapter IV. Pyrenean about 27 min
  7. Chapter V. Nice And Its about 14 min
  8. Chapter VI. Baths Of about 17 min
  9. Chapter VII about 48 min
  10. Chapter IX about 20 min
  11. Chapter X. Pontine about 32 min
  12. Chapter XI. Hoad By St about 23 min
  13. Chapter XII. Venice And Its about 43 min

Continue:

Front matter

BMDSHm'S COMPANION TO THE CONTINENT; A DESCRIPTIVE HAND-BOOK TO THE CHIEF PLACES OF RESORT: THEIE CHAKACTEKISTIC FEATURES, CLIMATES, SCENEEY, AND EEMEDIAL EESOTJECES, WITH OBSERVATIONS ON TUB INFLUENCE* OP CLIMATE AND TRAVELLING. BY EDWIN LEE, DOHOKAliT AND CORBESPONDINO MEMBER OF THE PB1NCIPAL COKTINENTAL MEDICAL ACADEMIES AND SOCIETIES. AUTHOE OF " THE BATHS OF GEIiMANY," ETC. EIC. LONDON :— W. J. ADAMS, BEAWHAW'S BRITISH AND CONTINENTAL GUIDE OFFICE, 59, FLEET STBEET. MANCHESTER :— BRADSHAW AND BLACKLOCK, 47, BBOWN SXBEEX. 1851. MeCOBQ.UODAI.E ANT* CO.. PRINTERS, LONDON". WO-.KS, NEWTON.

Preface

. The increased facilities for locomotion having ren dered distance little more than nominal, a visit to the Continent is regarded much in the same light as was formerly a trip to one of our watering places ; and there being now uninterrupted com munication by steam from all parts of Great Britain to Germany on the one hand, and through France to the Mediterranean Sea on the other, almost all the places of resort abroad are of com paratively easy access ; so that, as regards valetu dinarians more especially, the objection arising from the manifold inconveniences of a long jour ney on the high-roads, is in a great measure ob viated ; and travelling, the remedy which, from the earliest periods, has been recommended in chronic diseases, is generally available.* To meet the rerpairements of the pleasure-seeking tourist, * " In longis morbis solmn mutare." — Hippocrates, Aphorisms.

PREFACE.

. IV there exists an abundant supply of hand-books, containing detailed descriptions of objects of in terest, so that any addition to these, unless pos sessing extraordinary merits, would be useless. While briefly adverting to the leading features of particular localities, it has been my chief object to dwell more particularly upon those points upon which information is required by invalids, and the large class of travellers who seek to combine recreation with restoration to health — as also by the medical profession. Having, during many years, enjoyed opportunities of investigating the respec tive advantages offered by different localities, in this respect, by repeated visits and residences in several of them, for longer or shorter periods, I have endeavoured, in former publications, to re cord, in a concise and impartial manner, the results of my observations ; adducing likewise, and quali fying, when an undue bias rendered it necessary, the opinions of competent local authorities, and availing myself of the statistical information col lected by those, who have treated in a more general point of view, climate, and other subjects having reference to health.

With regard to climate in particular, it has appeared to me, from frequently observing the mistakes which occur PEEFACE. V respecting the choice of localities, by patients and practitioners, that the more general diffusion of information, which might lead to a more correct appreciation of this remedial agent — as well as of the places frequented on this account— could not fail to be acceptable, the only work on this sub ject which we possess being that of Sir James Clark. Accordingly, I have taken pains to make this portion of the work as complete as pos sible, by the addition of general remarks on the influence of climate, and tables of comparative temperature, &c, from the most recent authentic sources. Although a new and more comprehen sive title has been given to the present work, it may be regarded as a greatly improved edition of the Continental Traveller and Invalid's Hand-book, which appeared three years ago, and was most favourably received and reviewed in many of the leading metropolitan and provincial periodicals, though objections were made to my referring to the stirring events of that period.

All allusion to political, or other topics of the day, is now omitted; and, notwithstanding the quantity of additional matter, the price has been reduced, and the volume is published in a more portable form. In the Appendix, I have not deemed it a digres- VI PEEFACE. sion from my subject to advert to some not gene rally suspected prevalent causes of disease in the upper classes of society; and if, by directing a greater degree of attention to these causes, I can be at all instrumental in preventing any of the frequently irremediable consequences which their persistence entails, I shall derive much satisfaction from the consciousness that my endeavours, in this respect, have not been altogether useless. Londou, August, 1851. CONTENTS. TRANCE. Chap. Pag« L— Boulogne— Paris— French Characteristics— Climate of Paris.... 1 II.— Lyons— The Rhone— Marseilles — Climate of Provence— Hyeres and its Climate — Cannes 13 III. — Marseilles to Toulouse — Nismos — Pau and its Climate— Eaur Bonnes and Chaudes— Bordeaux and its Climate— Tours 24 IV. — Pyrenean Baths — Bagneres de Luchon — Bagneres de Bigorre — Vale of Argeles — Bareges — St. Sauveur — Gavarnie— Cauterets 43 Supplementary Note on the Climates of France.

By M. Ch. Martius '. 61 ITALY. V.— Nice and its Climate— The Cornice Road— Mentone— Genoa and its Climate 66 VI.— Baths of Lucca— Pisa and its Climate— Leghorn— The Maremma —Baths of Monte Catini 79 VII.— Florence— Its Environs and Climate— Sienna 94 VIII.— Rome— Its Characteristics and Environs 117 IX.— Rome— Medicine — Malaria— Living, &c— Climate 1 37 X. — Pontine Marshes — Naples, and the Neapolitans — Sorrento and Castellamare— Ischia, and its Mineral Springs— Palermo- Malta, and its Climate 155 XI.— Road by St. Germano to Rome— Monte Casino— From Rome to Florence, by Perugia— Bologna— Parma— Milan— The Lakes Route to Venice 183 XII.— Venice, and its Climate— Pass of Ampezzo— The Simplon— The Haut Valais— Aix les Bains — Mont Cenis— Turin— Route to Nice by the Col di Tenda— From Geneva to Basle 204 SWITZERLAND. -Geneva— St, Gervais— Lausanne— Vevay— Montreux and its Climate—The Valais— Baths of Lent— Berne— Interlacken— Lu- XIII. cerne and its Lake— St. Gotthard— Baths of Pfefiers 22*6 CONTENTS.

Appendix

. L— Observations on the Influence of Climate, and especially of Italian Climates 389 II.— On the Remedial Adaptation of Climate 354 1 1 L— Considerations upon some prevalent predisposing Causes of Disease, and upon the remedial effects of Travelling 367 IV. — Notes respecting the Mountains of Italy 391 V. — Note on Madeira 395 Meteorological Tables 399 Inhex

Chapter I

BOULOGNE— PARIS— FRENCH CHARACTERISTICS— CLIMATE OF PARIS. Considering Paris as the first point to be reached by the continental visiter, each of the routes from England presents its advantages. That by Newhaven and Dieppe is the most direct and the shortest ; but the sea passage being of five or six hours' duration, presents a great objection, and in the winter months the communication is altogether suspended. The entrance, more over, to the harbour of Dieppe is not very good. The town has a population of about 20,000 souls; the Grande rue passing through its centre to the port, and containing the best hotels, presents in the season a cheerful and animated aspect. The port is spacious, and is protected by a citadel and castle. The principal inducement for a temporary sojourn at Dieppe is the sea-bathing, this being the marine establishment nearest to the metropolis.

The baths are under the superin tendence of a physician-inspector, a3 at the other sea and mineralized baths in France. j_ The country between Dieppe and Paris — the most fruitful part of Normandy — is agreeably diversified; the journey occupies about five hours. At Rouen, the cathedral St. Ouen, and the spacious quays, are the chief objects deserving attention. Between Havre and Rouen the scenery along the banks of the Seine is h'ghly interesting, especially at the part where the river widens out near Quillebœuf. Some persons, therefore, prefer the Havre passage from Shoreham, which is about two hours longer than that to Dieppe. The port, of Havre admits the largest vessels, and maintains regular communication by steam with America, Rus sia, and other distant countries. The establishment Frascati offers resources for recreation.

The English residents, however, as also the principal merchants, live at the large suburb Ingonville. The objection to a long sea-passage will, however, always induce the great majority of travellers to choose that from Folkstone or Dover to Boulogne ; or from the last-named English port to Calais — which, though shortening the voyage by half an hour, prolongs the railroad journey by a few miles. Boulogne is an agreeable town for a short residence in the summer season, and has been of late years a good deal resorted to by families from England, on ac count of the sea-bathing, which is excellent, a fine sandy beach extending at low water eastward of the port, which has been greatly improved by the construction of a jetty along the ridge of rocks that formerly rendered the entrance less safe.

The streets are clean, wide, and have an animated appearance ; and several of the shops are handsome. The lower town lies at the BOULOGNE. 3 base and up the acclivity of a steep hill, on which stands the high town, inclosed by ramparts, planted with trees, and forming an agreeable promenade, whence extensive views may be obtained of the surrounding country. The population amounts to thirty thousand ; many rentiers reside in the high town, whilst the inhabitants of the lower town are for the most part engaged in commercial and professional avocations, are lodging house keepers, or are connected with the port. The environs are agreeable, and the air is light and bracing ; but the winter is generally severe, on account of the northern aspect and unsheltered position of the town, and cold winds and storms are of frequent occurrence.

Boulogne is, however, on the whole, a healthy place of residence, and generally agrees well with children, though it would not be an advisable place for delicate persons, or for those who are " servile to skyey influences." The resident English population usually averages, in peaceful times, between three and four thousand, many being induced to select it for an abode on account of its neighbourhood to England, its comparative cheapness, and the facilities for education. There are also several officers on half-pay, and some whose means of existence are more problematical. The superior class of Boulognese are generally courteous in their demeanour ; the lower orders are for the most part sober, good-tempered, though at times emportc's, fond of gaiety and dancing, and civil to strangers ; the women are strong, and work hard.

Boulogne possesses a tolerable museum and reading-room, where the English papers are daily received. The most usual lounge is on the port and jetty, to watch the arrival and departure of the packets; and at the adjoining sea bathing establishment, Versial. Nothing is lost, as regards scenery, in journeying by railroad to Paris, the country being, for the most part, a continued succession of hill and dale ; and, though generally productive in corn, is but scantily wooded, and offers but little to interest the traveller. The few chateaux seen on the roadside are most of them formal looking and cheerless, and the absence of detached cottages is characteristic of the more gregarious habits of the people. The pleasures of rural life, and the country-house society, so universal in England, are but little known or appreciated ; field sports being com paratively little followed in France, landed proprietors, consequently, seldom reside on their estates for more than a few weeks in the year, the great majority pre ferring the attractions of the capital, the larger pro vincial tow*ns, or the watering-places.

The French peasantry are generally robust, and more sober than the English, living principally upon bread, vegetables, milk, and bad wine, and eating meat only once or twice in the week ; the villages and hamlets in which they con gregate, though improved in appearance of late years, look any thing but attractive. The dull town of Abbeville, encircled by walls, has an antiquated aspect, and contains nothing to interest the passing traveller but its fine cathedral. Amiens is a livelier town, and more tolerable as a place of residence — its cathedral is one ofthe finest in France. Beauvais, which lies at some little distance from the line, in an agreeable part of the country, has a cheerful aspect. Its cathedral deserves a visit, as does also the tapestry PARIS manufactory. At St. Denis the fine old cathedral, with the royal tombs in its vaults, will be viewed with interest.

Few cities stood in greater need of improvement than Paris, some years ago, and there are perhaps none where so much has been effected in so comparatively short a period. The new quarters which, have arisen in various directions ; the widening of numerous streets, with the addition of foot-pavements; and the greater cleanliness both in aud out of doors, as well as the im proved accommodation generally throughout France, render the meaning of the word comfort (which the language has adopted) now better understood. The speedy completion of several new edifices and public works is in great measure owing to the ex-King, who, it is said, contributed largely to the embellishment of the capital. Standing near the obelisk, in the Place de la Con corde, the stranger may enjoy a coup-eTœil unique in its kind.

The splendid appearance of the Place, and of its two fountains, the view of the bridge and Chamber of Deputies, of the beautiful newly-erected facade of La Madeleine, of the gardens and palace of the Tuile ries, and ofthe magnificent arch of Neuilly, seen through the vista of the Champs Elysees, will leave an inde lible impression upon the memory. Another view, scarcely to be equalled in Europe, may be obtained from either of the bridges opposite the Tuileries. The extent of this palace and the Louvre (near half a mile), the spacious quays teeming with life, the light cheerful aspect of the houses, the two branches of the river passing between the Pout Neuf, and having enclosed the He de la Cite, uniting into one broad stream, with the venerable towers of Notre Dame rising high above the surrounding buildings, form an ensemble which could hardly fail to attract the attention of the most indifferent spectator.

The visitor will also be highly gratified by the panorama of the city displayed from the summit of Notre Dame, or of the arch of Neuilly, the clearness of the atmosphere on a fine day enabling him to see the whole at a glance. If the city have undergone great changes within the last twenty years, still greater has taken place in the demeanour and character of its inhabitants. Paris, and indeed France in general, could not, even before the recent change from a monarchy to a republic, have been termed with propriety the "Gay, sprightly land of mirth and social ease, Pleased with itself, whom all the world can please;" for instead of the polite, light-hearted people of former days, one more frequently met with serious, anxious, business-like countenances ; vivacity had given place to a sedate demeanour and to comparative taciturnity, and brusquerie was not unfrequently witnessed in public places.* The love of self appeared in a more prominent fight, the acquisition of money being the * "My first impression of the French character," says Mr. Matthews, " is, that it must be greatly changed from that gay and lively frivolity of which we used to hear so much.

My fel low-passengers are serious and reserved; each man seems to suspect his neighbour; and at the tables d'hote, where I have dined and supped during my route, the company could not have been more silent and sombre if the scene had been laid in Eng land in the month of November." — Diary of an Invalid. PARIS, 7 object of the great majority of all classes; and there are few strangers but have had to complain of the greater disposition to take advantage on the part of the trades people, and others with whom they were brought into contact. The women were not free from this reproach, being often more exigeantes than the men. Titles of nobility being no longer hereditary, were but little estimated, wealth being the idol to which most bowed. Among the upper classes the talent of conversation is possessed in a high degree, and egotism is at least more veiled by the exterior forms of politeness ; the essence, however, which consists not merely in a courteous de meanour, but in doing civil and kind acts without interested motives, even though it maybe at some per sonal inconvenience, is much more rare at the present day.

The great majority, especially ofthe upper class of Parisians, has been, in fact, educated more with reference to society than to domestic life, if the thronged reunions and liaisons de salon can be called society, where there is generally little else than a " Commerce exterieur, union sans penchant, Que fait naitre l'usage et non le sentiment;" Where " L'esprit vole toujours sur la superficie, Et le cœur ne se voitjamais de la partie, This desire of shining, and appearing to advantage in the world, leads the French (and foreigners in gene ral) to cultivate the art of pleasing more than the English, though the exercise of the said art is too frequently restricted to society, without being carried into the family circle. Thus, the Frenchman generally possesses a greater variety of information, and can converse more readily upon most subjects (though his knowledge of them may not be very profound) than the Englishman, whose time at college has probably been either more occupied by his classical studies, to the ne glect of other more available knowledge, or by more practical occupations.

It must, however, be confessed, that the introduction of the more easy manners, and the greater colloquial powers of the French, would go far towards removing the insipidity attendant on some crowded meetings where the company is exclusively English, and the conversation not the most spirituelle. Thus, as may be supposed from their greater disposition to enjoy the present, and effleurer hs choses de la vie, the French are more agreeable as acquaintances than the English, who, however, are generally more to be depended upon as friends, or where any service is required. The influence of religion is almost null among the largest proportion of the population of most parts of France, and that of the moral principle is not very powerful ; both good and bad actions being more fre quently performed from impulse, or in accordance with the dictates of interest or pleasure, than from reflection, or from a due regard to what is right or wrong, which, from being inculcated at an early age, is more universal in England.

Personal courage, and an exaggerated idea of the superiority of France and Frenchmen over all other nations, as well as a great susceptibility to any thing which is considered to affect the national or individual honour, are universal among all classes ; hence the readiness to have recourse to arms, and the greater frequency of duels to settle disputes and mis- PARIS. 9 deeds affecting society, which in England (where the dread of moral responsibility and ofthe law operates as a salutary restraint upon personal conflicts) are fre quently arranged by apology, or are submitted to the decision of the judicial tribunals. Even among oom mon soldiers in France, when disputes cannot be arranged, a duel with the sword is a frequent consequence. The love of pleasure, which pervades all classes in France to a much greater extent than in England, is not always of the most refined nature : hence a morbid craving for excitement and novelty is engendered, and a vitiated taste is acquired, to which writers and dra matists of considerable talent have not scrupled to pan der, and to keep alive, by the reiterated narration of crimes and horrors, which, from the novel and outre combinations in which they were presented to the public, must have called forth not a little inventive power.

It must not, however, be supposed that all were thus infected; for there is a large proportion ofthe upper and middle orders among the French population, as estimable as could be found in any country, whom these productions inspired with disgust and pity ; and the writings of Chateaubriand, Lamartine, and De Vigny, were eagerly perused, even by many of those who de lighted in the creations of Victor Hugo or Georges Sand. It is, however, gratifying to perceive that this taste has of late greatly subsided : the dramas of Lu crece Borgia, Marion de L' Orme, the Tour de Nesle, and similar performances, having been but seldom ex hibited on the stage, being superseded by the historical plays and comedies of Delavigne, Scribe, and others of the same school. — FRANCE. A thirst for military renown, and acquisition by force of arms, is strong in the minds of a large section of the population of France (independently of the army), who have the recollection ofthe brilliant career of Napoleon, and of individuals raised from obscure stations to the rank of colonels, generals, and field-marshal3, without the accompanying reflection of the devastation and misery inflicted upon other nations, and which the conscription and occupation by foreign armies subse quently entailed upon their own country.

Such per sons, many of whom may be likened to the conspirators against Augustus, referred to by Corneille, who, " Si tout n'est renverse ne sauraient subsister," dazzled by their ideas of national superiority, are led to entertain the supposition of a successful career of con quest as heretofore: a circumstance not likely to happen in the present day, even were another Napoleon to arise and take the command of their armies. With respect to climate, the chief advantage which Paris has over London consists in the greater purity and dryness of the atmosphere, its freedom from smoke and fog, and in the weather being less variable from day to day. The summers are hotter, and the winters equally cold, if not colder. The average quantity of rain which falls throughout the year, is about as great in the one as in the other capital.

It would not, therefore, be advisable to select Paris as a winter resi dence for delicate invalids, or those whose cases require attention to climate. It agrees, however, very well with many dyspeptics, to whom the light cookery of the French cuisine is better suited than the more sub- CLIMATE OF PARIS. 11 stantial fare usually met with in Britain, which requires greater powers of digestion, provided always that this class of invalids abstain from ragouts, rich sauces, indi gestible vegetables, as truffles, and from partaking of a variety of wines. The valetudinarian who labours under depression of spirits, combined with disordered digestion, would likewise frequently find himself better after a few weeks' sojourn in Paris, which offers more resources for mental relaxation and amusement than any other city.

Baths are also more general, which is a great advantage ; for there can be no doubt that the neglect of this means of keeping the functions of the skin in a proper state, is the occasion of many of the complaints most frequently met with in England. Among the most prevalent diseases of Paris may be enumerated inflammations of the respiratory organs, consumption, typhoid fevers, intermittents, rheumatism, scrofula, and various forms of dyspepsia. Apoplexy ? paralysis, and nervous diseases in general, appear to me to be less frequent than in England. As the treatment of disease presents considerable differences (into the consideration of which I have fully entered in another work*) in England and on the continent, the English abroad usually prefer being attended by medical men of their own country, and at almost all the continental towns of resort, one, two, or more practitioners reside.

Some, however, who take the name of English physicians, have but little claim to the confidence of the public, as every body is not aware that the title of doctor * Observations on the Medical Institutions and Practice of France, Italy, and Germany. FRANCE. of medicine (which does not confer the right to practise) may be obtained with very little trouble from certain foreign universities, requiring little else than the payment of the fees. Travellers, therefore, when they hear speak of Doctor So-and-So, will do well to ascertain, before entrusting themselves to their care, how far they are qualified to support the title they assume. It must be admitted that in England, where the habit of energetic medication prevails more than elsewhere, drugs are often prescribed when not indicated, and much injury is thus done in many chronic diseases, especially in the dyspeptic and nervous complaints with which so great a proportion of the inhabitants of large towns are afflicted.

Continental practitioners frequently manage these cases better by means of mild remedies, baths, mineral waters, &e., which, however, have been latterly more universally employed in Eng land than heretofore. LYONS. 13

Chapter II

LYONS— THE RHONE— MARSEILLES— CLIMATE OF PROVENCE — HYERES AND ITS CLIMATE-CANNES. The vast majority of English travellers proceeding beyond Paris, take the route by the Orleans and Nevers railroad, or by that of Tonnerre and Dijon to Lyons, on their way to Switzerland, or to Italy and the Medi terranean, whence to most parts of Great Britain there is now uninterrupted steam communication — the line of railroad between Paris and Chalons having been recently completed ; and from this town there is con stant traffic by steamboat to Lyons and Avignon — whence the railroad is in activity to Marseilles. By the Tonnerre and Chalons route, the scenery is in many parts interesting, especially in the environs of the me tropolis, and on the banks of the Seine at Montereau. Some of the views in the forest of Fontainebleau, through which the road passes, are strikingly beautiful.

Enor mous masses of grey rock, which contrast agreeably with the surrounding foliage, lie scattered about in various directions, presenting a novel and curious ap pearance. The town possesses some good streets, but seems to be almost deserted. Travellers so disposed may visit the chateau and gardens. Sens possesses a cathedral, which, however, is inferior to that of Abbeville or Beanvais, and contains nothing — FRANCE. particularly worthy of observation. Joigny and Auxerre are pleasantly situated towns on the Yonne, in a fruitful country, producing a superior kind of wine. The golden tint of the vine-leaves in autumn gives a rich and pleasing appearance to some parts of the country between Auxerre and Chalons, which at other times look dreary and cheerless. During the vintage season, the process of treading the grapes by men and women with bare feet (to which practice allusion is made in the Scriptures), will frequently be seen in the vineyards on the roadside .It is, however, a mistake to suppose, that the peasantry in the wine countries are better off than in others, the reverse being more frequently the case, as great distress ensues if the season should be bad, which not unfrequently happens.

Dijon, the capital of Burgundy, and formerly a city of great importance, is still interesting from its histori cal associations, and its ducal monuments. A visit to the museum during a day's halt, will afford a pleasing occupation. Chalons is a pretty town, and looks well from a distance. The quays are spacious and hand some. Two or three steamers descend the Saone daily to Lyons, making the transit in six hours ; they cannot, however, always convey carriages (especially when the water is low), which can be forwarded by a coche d'eau. But few persons, however, now require these encum brances, so great are the facilities of transit from one place to another. The banks of the river are for the most part flat, and indifferently cultivated about Ma$on (half-way), celebrated for its wine ; the scenery is pleas ing, and increases in interest on approaching Lyons.

The road, which runs in great part parallel with the LYONS. 15 river, passes over Mont d'Or, so called from the rich colour of its vineyards in autumn, and from the summit of which a charming and extensive prospect may be enjoyed of the rich plains of Burgundy on the one side, of the Lyonnois on the other, and of the snow-clad Alps of Dauphine in the distance. The descent to Lyons passes through a succession of meadow land, orchards, and vineyards. Lyons is principally built between the Rhone and the Saone; in addition to the old bridge, a suspension bridge has recently been constructed over the latter river. The quays are spacious, but not clean. The principal squares are the Place de Bellecour, perhaps the largest in Europe, and the Place des Terreaux, which contains the Hotel de Ville, and a good museum of natural history.

The largest, as well as the finest public edifice, is the hospital, which is surmounted by a dome, its facade occupying a considerable extent of the Quai du Rhone. There are no other public buildings remarkable in an architectural point of view. The streets are mostly narrow and dirty; the houses old and lofty. Lyons consequently offers no inducement to travellers to prolong their sojourn beyond a day. The velvets and silks are justly celebrated, and their manufacture occupies a large proportion of the population. The labouring classes, as in most other manu facturing towns, are for the most part republicans, and turbulent. The view from the Terrasse de Fourvieres of the city, the junction of the two rivers, a vast extent of fertile country and vine-clad hills, with the distant view of the Alps, is considered one of the finest in Europe.

Steamboats descend the Rhone to Avignon in ten or eleven hours ; one leaving daily at an inconveniently early hour (four o'clock), a second at eleven o'clock, which arrives in the evening at Valence, leaving the next day for Avignon. These boats are larger than those on the Saone, and take carriages ; but they are not very clean, the accommodation is inferior, and they are generally disagreeably full of passengers, and laden with merchandise. The scenery is in many parts highly interesting, not unfrequently resembling that of the Rhine below Mayence ; the river flowing rapidly be tween steep hills, ever and anon crowned with ruins, and cut in terraces for the cultivation of the vine. On advancing more to the south, the banks become flatter, and the Alps rise more distinctly upon the view. At the Pont St. Esprit, which is of great antiquity, the current is very strong, and some degree of excitement attends the passing beneath the arch, several accidents having happened at this point.

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