Sarawak; its inhabitants and productions; being notes during a residence in that country with the Rajah Brooke

Front matter

Xce7 i.A^^n^zA^. Xm^zTc SARAWAK ; ITS INHABITANTS AND PRODUCTIONS: BEING NOTES DURING A RESIDENCE IN THAT COUNTRY WITH H. H. THE RAJAH BROOKE. BY HUGH LOW, COLONIAL SECRETARY AT LABUH-AN. LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, tn ©rtrinare to f^er Jfflafestg. 1848. LONDON : R. CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL. TO HIS EXCELLENCY JAMES BROOKE, ESQ. D.C.L. GOVERNOR OF LABUH-AN, HER MAJESTY'S COMMISSIONER IN BORNEO, RAJAH OE SARAWAK, ETC. MY DEAR MR. BROOKE, In availing myself of your kind permission to dedicate to you the following Work, I discharge with pleasure the duty under which the author of the first Volume professing to treat of the inhabitants of Sarawak, lies ; and if I am fortunate in securing for it your approbation, I shall consider the time I have devoted to it to have been profitably spent.

DEDICATION. You know the circumstances of haste under which it has been written, and I trust, in consequence, much to your kind indulgence for its many imperfections; but should the Volume be found to contain any new or interesting particulars, I shall have the greatest satisfaction in acknowledging that your great kindness, and the facilities and protection you afforded me, alone enabled me to collect and supply them. With sentiments of the deepest respect and gratitude, I am, MY DEAR MR. BROOKE, Your most obedient and humble Servant, HUGH LOW Leyden, Dec. 13, 1847.

Preface

. The remarks contained in the following pages have been prepared from notes col lected during a residence of about thirty months in Sarawak, and the west coast of Borneo. My object, (the collection of plants and seeds,) led me more into the country, and amongst the tribes of aborigines, than any other Englishman who has yet visited the shores of this Island ; and I trust that, though very incomplete, this Work may, in the absence of others on the subject, be found to contain some interesting information respecting the domestic economy of the people. On my arrival in England, in October last, I had no intention of publishing any account VI

PREFACE.

. of the Island ; and, in consequence, many of my notes, particularly those on the sub ject of the languages and superstitions of the various tribes, were left in Borneo, my purpose being to present them to the public, when a longer residence and further in quiries in the country should have rendered them less unworthy of attention. Though thirty months may seem to pro mise a less meagre and unsatisfactory account than that contained in the pages which follow, it must be recollected, that a great part of that time was spent before I had sufficiently acquired the native languages to trust my remarks on paper, so that these may be considered as but the result of one year's inquiry. A further cause of their present imper fection is the want of time under which I laboured in their preparation for the press, consequent on the necessary arrangements for an early departure for the East. It is with the greatest diffidence I now offer them for the public approval, and crave for them

PREFACE.

. VII that indulgence which, under other circumstances, could not be expected or allowed. I wish in this place to acknowledge my obligations to the numerous friends, both here and in the East, who were kind enough to interest themselves in my proceedings. To the Earl of Auckland I am under the greatest obligations for letters to the Official Residents in the Straits Settlements, particularly for one to the Honourable the Governor, Lieutenant- Colonel Butterworth, C. B., who on all occasions, and by every means in his power, forwarded the objects of the expedition, and by his and his lady's kindness during my frequent visits to Singapore, has placed me under infinite obligations. To Drs. Oxley and Martin, and C. Carnie, Esq., with many other friends in Singapore, I am indebted for many favours ; but 1 am only one of many who have had occasion to record their kindness. I need not mention the name of Mr. Brooke, as his amiable character is too well known ; but to the other gentlemen of Sarawak I may

PREFACE.

. express my thanks for their kindness, and assure them that in whatever manner the remainder of my time may be spent, the period I passed in their company will ever be remembered with pleasure. I return my thanks to the gentlemen of the British Museum for the list of Zoology in the Appendix, and very much regret that family affliction has prevented E. Doubleday, Esq., of that Institution, from furnishing the Catalogue of the Lepidopterous Insects. Many other skins and animals than those enumerated have been sent to England, but have not yet been examined. HUGH LOW. Upper Clapton, Dec. 22cl, 1847. PAGE xiii 30 CONTENTS.

Introduction

CHAPTEE I. GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF BORNEO BRITISH AND DUTCH SETTLEMENTS ON THE ISLAND ITS MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, LAKES, AND VOLCANOES — THE ERUPTION OE TOMBORO COAL FOUND IN THE ISLAND OF LABUH-AN THE MODE OF WORKING ANTIMONY ORE— MINERALS IN BORNEO GOLD FOUND IN SARAWAK THE MODE OF WORKING IT IN THE ISLAND, AND ITS PRODUCE ESTIMATED BY SIR STAMFORD RAFFLES GOLD AN EXPORT OF SARAWAK —DIAMONDS IN BORNEO .... 1

Chapter II. The Temperature And Soil Of Borneo The Vegetable Productions Of

THE ISLAND DESCRIBED IN SUCCESSION THE SUGAR CANE — SPICES— THE NIBONG THE BAMBOO— RICE THE COCOA-NUT SAGO THE GOMUTI PALM ITS USES — THE BETEL, OR ARECA NUT — RATTANS AND CANES THE NIPAH AND MANGROVE CAMPHOR VEGETABLE OILS THE GUTTA PERCHA— THE UPAS TREE. DAMMAR WILD CINNAMON AND COTTON PEPPER AND COFFEE GAMBIER AND TOBACCO TIMBER TREES ORNAMENTAL AND SCENTED WOODS FLOWERS a. X CONTENTS. PAGE 123

Chapter III. The Fruits Of Borneo Animated Nature The Rhinoceros The Tapir

— THE BEAR — DEER THE KIJANG AND PALAN- DOK THE PANTHER VARIETIES OF CATS ANECDOTE OF AN ORANG UTAN MONKEYS — ALLIGATORS — THE ALLIGATOR DOCTOR THE MODE OF OPERATION LIZARDS — SNAKES AND VIPERS — THE COBRA AND FLOWER-SNAKE INSECTS FISH AND FISHING ESTABLISHMENTS BUFFALOES HARES GOATS PIGS— DOGS — DOMESTIC FOWLS 71

Chapter IV. The Kingdom Of Borneo The Malays The Bugis People Of

CELEBES THE ABORIGINES — DUTCH AND ENGLISH SETTLE- MENTS MAJOR MULLER's EXPEDITION MR. MURRAY KILLED present state of the capital — the sultan sarawak and mr. brooke's possessions — description of Sarawak — its chiefs — its native merchants and inhabitants dyak slaves in borneo their treatment and price in the market slave debtors 93

Chapter V. Arab Descendants Of The Prophet

— THEIR IMPOSITIONS AND SUPERSTITIONS — PIRACY — ACTION OF THE NEMESIS GAM- BLING AND OPIUM SMOKING — CRIMINAL TRIALS AND PUNISH- MENTS — IMPORTS AND EXPORTS OF SARAWAK MANNERS OF THE PEOPLE EDUCATION — DRESS AND APPEARANCE OF MALAY WOMEN — OIL FOR THE HAIR A SUPERSTITION— MARRIAGES PRICE OF A WIFE RUNNING A-MUCK ARTS AND MANU- FACTURES PALACE OF THE SULTAN — MARKET OF BRUNI MALAY FISHING- TRADERS AT SARAWAK WARS OF THE PEOPLE THEIR WEAPONS ASSOCIATION WITH EUROPEANS . CONTENTS. XI PAOE 165

Chapter VI. Sea-dyaks Tribes Of Lundu, Sakarran, And Sarebas

— DYAK HOUSES LANGUAGE, RELIGION, AND SUPERSTITIONS — THE MANANG, OR VILLAGE DOCTOR — DRESS OF DYAKS AND OF THEIR WOMEN SEVERAL OF THEIR CHIEFS ANECDOTE OF ONE HEAD-TAKING GRATITUDE TO MR. BROOKE PIRACY OF SEA-DYAKH — ITS SUPPRESSION DYAK LAXITY OF MANNERS THEIR LOVE OF THEIR CHILDREN DUTIES AND LABOURS OF THE MEN AND WOMEN — CAPTIVE DYAK CHILDREN COOKERY OF THE DYAKS THEIR FUNERALS AND FUNERAL CEREMONIES

Chapter VII. Treatment Of

A CAPTURED HEAD SEA-DYAK GAMES THEIR PROGRESS IN THE USEFUL ARTS THE BLACKSMITH THEIR WEAPONS WARS BALANCE OF HEADS —PRESERVATION OF ENEMIES' HEADS HEAD-HUNTING SEA-DYAK BOATS BOAT ENGAGEMENTS BRAVERY OF THE CHIEF OF LUNDU DEFEN- SIVE WARFARE MODE OF ROWING A CHIEF'S SUPERSTITION — DYAK AGRICULTURE PREPARING LAND FOR A FARM PADI AND INDIAN CORN GRANARIES MODE OF REAPING THE PADI DYAK GARDENS THEIR PRODUCE FRUIT TREFS TRAPS FOR DEER AND PIGS— CAGE-TRAPS AND SPRINGES FOR BIRDS — STRANGE MODE OF FISHING 206

Chapter VIII. The Hill Dyaks

— THEIR CHARACTER THEIR RELIGION AND SUPERSTITIONS THEIR DEITIES INVOCATION OF THEM PRO- PITIATION OF THEM AND OF THE RAJAH — CEREMONY PER- FORMED BY MR. BROOKE — THE PAMALI, OR " TABOO" A DYAK FUNERAL A PECULIAR SUPERSTITION OF THE DYAKS THEIR ABSTINENCE FROM ANIMAL FOOD ANCIENT DYAK MONU- MENTS AND DRAGON-JARS THEIR VENERATION FOR CERTAIN PLANTS SUPERSTITION OF THE DYAKS OF SARAWAK — SPE- CULATIONS AS TO THE ORIGIN OF THE DYAKS 239 a CONTENTS.

Chapter IX

PAttX LAND DYAK VILLAGES AND HOUSES THE PANGAH DYAK FOR- TIFICATIONS—THEIR PATHS AND BRIDGES — MODE OF TRA- VELLING—THE ORANG KAYA DYAK ASSEMBLIES, OR PARLIA- MENT THEIR POPULATION VILLAGES DYAK TRIBES IN SARAWAK THEIR MORALITY AND MARRIAGE CEREMONIES A CURIOUS AND SALUTARY CUSTOM HEAD-TAKING DYAK DISEASES, MEDICINE AND SURGERY MODE OF CURE MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS AND SINGING WEAPONS THE TAPANG TREE MODE OF PROCURING WAX AND EDIBLE BIRDS' NESTS AGRI- CULTURE — LANDOWNERS 278

Chapter X. The Kyans

— THEIR COMMERCE THE KYANS FOES OF THE DYAKS TATTOOING KYAN DRESS IMPUTED CHARACTER OF THE KYANS — THEIR WAR DRESSES —THEIR WEAPONS THE SAMPIT- AN THEIR SWORDS AND KNIVES THEIR COURAGE THEIR SHIELDS— HUMAN SACRIFICES KYAN MODE OF TRANSACTING BUSINESS — THE MILANOWES AND THE MERI PEOPLE AN ALBINO— THE REJANS, KADYANS, AND OTHER TRIBES THE SEA-GIPSIES OPENINGS FOR BRITISH ENTERPRISE PROBA- BLE SCIENTIFIC INVESTIGATIONS BY DR. HOOKER . . . .321

Appendix

INTRODUCTION.

. It has been suggested, that a short notice of Mr Brooke should precede this work ; since it is to his exertions that the details contained in the following pages will owe their chief interest. This concise memoir is offered without comment, for a reason which a glance at the title-page will enable everybody to understand. Mr. Brooke was born on the 29th of April, 1803, at Coombe Grove, near Bath. He was the second, but is now the sole surviving son of the late Thomas Brooke, Esq., who was long employed in the civil service of the East India Company ; and, descended by both parents from ancient families, is the lineal

INTRODUCTION.

. XIV representative of Sir Robert Viner, Baronet, Lord Mayor of London in the reign of Charles II. Sir Robert was honoured by an intimacy with his Sovereign, of which a pleasant story is told in " The Spectator," and did the Crown many great services. Such was his loyalty, that he willingly permitted a great portion of his large fortune to find its way into the Exchequer of the Merry Monarch, to whose memory he raised a monument in Stock's Market. Designed for the military service of the East India Company, Mr. Brooke received a suitable education; and went out to India at a very early period as a cadet. He spent the first years of his active life in Bengal, where he held several advantageous appoint ments ; and on the breaking out of the Bur mese war he accompanied his regiment to Assam.

In an action with the enemy his gallantry was so conspicuous that he received the thanks of the Government; but, being shot through the lungs, his native air was deemed necessary to his recovery, and he returned to Europe.

INTRODUCTION.

. XV Once more at home, he resumed the studies of his boyhood, and made himself master of several modern languages. He travelled also through France, Switzerland, and Italy, a tour which his recent literary pursuits had prepared him to enjoy. The period at length arrived when it was necessary that he should return to India, and he embarked, but the ship was wrecked on the Isle of Wight. This mishap occasioned such a loss of time, that when he reached Madras, his leave of absence had expired, and he found that to regain the position he had involuntarily forfeited, a prolonged and tedious correspondence with the Home Autho rities would probably be necessary. Accord ingly, he at once relinquished the service, and decided on proceeding with the ship to China. This step was the most important of his earlier life.

Then, for the first time, he saw the islands of the Indian Archipelago, with their natural riches and incomparable beauty. The notion of one day visiting and exploring them insinuated itself into his mind, but the resolve

INTRODUCTION.

. was not suddenly made. The value and variety of the products of the Archipelago were in some measure disclosed to him during his stay at Canton. He returned to Europe, by this time full of his design, and in con junction with another gentleman, fitted out a ship of large burden, and proceeded once more into the China seas ; but circumstances, which, considering his ardour and the pur pose he had at heart, must have been numerous, or indeed deterring, prevented at that time the accomplishment of his wishes. He gave up the idea of carrying out his plan in company with another, and again visited Europe, to " bide his time, to wait a happier hour." On the death of his father, Mr. Brooke succeeded to a handsome fortune ; and in October, 1838, eight years after his first entrance into the China seas, he set sail from England in his yacht, the ' Royalist,' a handsome schooner of 142 tons, with a picked crew of more than twenty men. The sailing qualities of his vessel, and the thorough seamanship of his crew, he had

INTRODUCTION.

. XVII previously tested in a voyage up the Medi terranean. On reaching Singapore, where he stayed nearly two months, Mr. Brooke saw reason to modify his original intention, and to restrict his researches for a time to the north-west coast of Borneo. He learned that Borneo Proper was under the rule of the Rajah Muda Hassim, who was represented to be humane and generous, and well-affected to the Eng lish. Muda Hassim was then at Sarawak — his occasional residence only — but at which he was detained by a rebellion in the in terior. Taking with him such presents as were likely to prove most agreeable to the Rajah, Mr. Brooke stood down the Strait, visited Borneo, and proceeded up the river Sarawak, anchoring abreast of the town ofthat name on the 15th of August, 1839. He was received by the Rajah with courtesy and kindness, but soon found that the rebellion, of which his host had spoken lightly, was a serious matter, and he had cause to believe that Muda Hassim wished him to stay as an intimi dation to the rebels. He, however, obtained

INTRODUCTION.

. permission from the Rajah to visit parts of his country, of which he availed himself, making several excursions to various Dyak tribes. On his return to Sarawak, he had several conferences with the Rajah, touching the establishment of commerce between that place and Singapore; and on the whole was encouraged to endeavour to effect it. Carrying with him letters for the merchants of Singapore, and a list of the imports and exports of Sarawak, Mr. Brooke took a cordial leave of the Rajah, and set sail for the former port. Mr. Brooke's second visit to Sarawak was at the end of August, 1840. He found the civil war pretty much as he had left it, but the Sultan of Bruni (Borneo) was now bestirring himself, and his measures excited Muda Has sim to action. Still, it was found that little or nothing decisive could be achieved without the co-operation of our Englishman, which, after some persuasion, he consented to render. The rebellion was at length put down, the chief surrendering at discretion, and it was not without much difficulty that Mr. Brooke

INTRODUCTION.

. XIX succeeded in prevailing upon the Rajah to spare their lives. By this time the Rajah was tired of Sarawak, the government of which was handed over to his valuable associate in the extinction of the civil war. The agreement was drawn out, signed, and sealed, on the 24th of September, 1841. After many months occupied in the ardu ous duties of establishing his government, Mr. Brooke, accompanied by Muda Hassim, sailed for Borneo Proper, and had several interviews with the Sultan, by whom at length he was, with all solemnity, confirmed in his government. Everything now went so prosperously in the interior of his territory, that he found he could with safety proceed once more to Singapore. In his journal he observes, " My motives for going are various ; but I hope to do good, to excite interest, and make friends ; and I can find no season like the present for my absence. It is now two years since I left Singapore, ' the boundary of civilization.' I have been out of the civi- XX

INTRODUCTION.

. lized world, living in a demi-civilized state, peaceably, innocently, and usefully." He sailed on the 8th of February, 1843. The Honourable Captain Keppel, on the termination of the war with China, was or dered by his commander-in-chief, Sir William Parker, to proceed with his ship, the ' Dido,' to the Malacca Straits, to protect the trade and put down piracy. Borneo was included in the station, and the captain, being on duty at Singapore, made the acquaintance of Mr. Brooke, who returned with him in his vessel to Sarawak. At Borneo, the captain found enough to do, and did much towards the suppression of piracy, with the assistance of his friend ; but he was recalled to England in August, 1844. Mr. Brooke in his journal thus speaks of that event, " The departure of the ' Dido ' left me sad and lonely, for Cap tain Keppel had really been my companion and friend ; and he so thoroughly entered into my views for the suppression of piracy, and made them his own, that I may not expect any successor to act with the same vigour and the same decision. Gallant Didos ! I would

INTRODUCTION.

. XXI ask no further aid or protection than I received from you." Shortly after Captain Keppel's departure, H.M.S. 'Samarang' and ' Phlegethon' visited and inspected the island of Labuh-an, of which final possession has since been taken, and which is now a British settlement. In February,:1845, H.M.S. 'Driver' brought Captain Bethune to Sarawak, bearing a letter from Lord Aberdeen, appointing Mr. Brooke confidential agent in Borneo to Her Majesty. This letter enclosed one to the Sultan and the Rajah Muda Hassim, replying to their request for the assistance of the British Government to extinguish piracy. The captain and Mr. Brooke instantly proceeded to Borneo (Bruni) city, where the letter was received by the Sultan with firing of guns and streaming of banners, and every personal demonstration of respect.

The Sultan ex claimed, " it was good, very good," — wanted to know when the English would occupy Labuh-an, and observed that he wanted to have the Europeans near him.

INTRODUCTION.

. Hearing of hostile demonstrations on the part of certain formidable pirates, Mr. Brooke went to Singapore, and had several inter views with Sir Thomas Cochrane. The ad miral proceeded to Borneo Proper, accompanied by Mr. Brooke, with a fleet of seven vessels, and had an interview with the Sultan and Muda Hassim, and an action was shortly after fought with the pirates, in which they were completely routed, but not without some loss on the English side. " Never," said the Borneons, " was such a war in Bruni." All tendered their submission to Muda Hassim, and the Sultan and Mr. Brooke returned in triumph to Sarawak. Scarcely had these events taken place, when the Sultan, who had been accounted imbecile and a mere cypher, was discovered to be not without treachery, and the means of effecting it.

He caused Muda Hassim and many others to be murdered, because they were friendly to the English ; and he had employed a wretch, Mr. Brooke's greatest and most inveterate enemy, although his life had been three times interceded for by his intended victim, to

INTRODUCTION.

. XXIII poison him, or to get him dispatched by any cowardly and safe means. On hearing of these occurrences, Sir Thomas Cochrane lost not a moment in taking measures to bring the Sultan to account, unmoved by an apologetic letter which the traitor trans mitted to him. The fleet ascended the river, which was stoutly defended from forts and batteries, but on reaching the city it was found that the inhabitants had deserted it, and that the Sultan had effected his escape. In a few days, the dispersed inhabitants became reassured, and returned to their homes, when a proclamation for the Sultan was confided to the chief person in the town, remind ing him how utterly he was at the admiral's mercy, and warning him of the consequences, should he again offer hostilities to England. Sir Thomas Cochrane then left Captain Mundy to complete such operations as might be necessary. This officer, accompanied by Mr. Brooke, made some vigorous and successful demon-

INTRODUCTION.

. strations against the pirates, at the termination of which, the Rajah of Sarawak returned to Bruni, for the purpose of re storing order, a task which had been con fided to him by the admiral. Thence he returned to Sarawak, taking Muda Hassim's son with him, and the rest of the ill-fated Rajah's family. In about a month after his flight, the Sultan was permitted to return to Bruni, whence he wrote Mr. Brooke a penitential letter, imploring forgiveness and promising amendment. A similar letter was also des patched to Her Majesty Queen Victoria, but his power, as a source of offence to the British Government, is gone for ever. SARAWAK

Chapter I. Geographical Description Of Borneo British And Dutch Settlements On The

ISLAND ITS MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, LAKES, AND VOLCANOES THE ERUPTION OF TOMBORO COAL FOUND IN THE ISLAND OF LABUH-AN — THE MODE OF WORKING ANTIMONY ORE MINERALS IN BORNEO— GOLD FOUND IN SARAWAK THE MODE OF WORKING IT IN THE ISLAND, AND ITS PRODUCE ESTI- MATED BY SIR STAMFORD RAFFLES — GOLD AN EXPORT OF SARAWAK DIAMONDS IN BORNEO. Borneo, one of the largest islands of the world, occupies portions of both the first and second grand divisions of the Eastern Archipelago, as established by Mr. Crawfurd; the eastern boundary of his first or western division, 116° of east longitude, running tlirough the island a little to the eastward of the town of Bruni, more commonly known as Borneo Proper, so that the western and greater portion of the island belongs to his first and most favoured division, which includes also Sumatra, Java, and the Malayan peninsula.

That part, east of the above-named me ridian, is comprised in the second division, which also B GEOGRAPHY OF includes the island of Celebes and others, to the meri dian of 124° east, and to the parallel of 3° north latitude. A portion of the island enters the fourth geographical division of the above-named author, but this appears to be a superfluous one, as the inhabitants and productions of Magindanau, Soolu, &c, very much resemble those of the second division ; the vegetables on which stress is laid, particularly the nutmeg and sago, being abundant on those parts of Borneo which are included in the former divisions : the first of them, however, is not the kind so valued for its aromatic flavour, and though there are several species, they are all valueless in commerce, the fine ones being confined to the Moluccas.

The name Borneo, by which the island has been always distinguished on European charts, and which was probably applied to it by the Portuguese from information received previously to any of their visits to the island, is a corruption of the word Burni, the name of a kingdom and town on the N. W. coast of the island — Bruni being called by the inhabitants of the Malayan peninsula, where the Portuguese first settled after their conquest of Malacca, under the celebrated Albuquerque, in 1511, Tanah Burni, the land of Burni, it being rarely the custom of the natives to apply a distinguishing name to the whole island collectively, but to designate each part by the name of the most powerful kingdom situated in it. Thus it is said that the southern part of this island is named by the Javans, Tanah Banjarmasin, BORNEO. 3 from the Malayan or rather Javanese kingdom of that name.

The natives of Borneo in general have no idea that their country is an island : it is only the Malays and inhabitants of the sea-coasts, whose maritime pursuits have necessarily forced upon them the know ledge of its insular position, who have one compre hensive term for the countries which compose it. These call it Tanah Kalamantan, and occasionally Pulo Kalamantau, or the island Kalamantan ; but this term is usually restricted to what we should call an islet, large countries being designated Tanah, or land — a word nearly similar in signification to our term continent — their language having no other expression equivalent to that geographical term, and consequently more appropriate to this land, than the term Pulo. Though this large island has been long known to Europeans, settlements were not for many years after its discovery attempted upon it, and it is remarkable that the Portuguese, Spanish, and Dutch, who so long contended for the spice trade of the Moluccas, should have so neglected the rich island of Borneo, the pro ductions of which must have been well known to them all.

In 1747, the Dutch made a settlement at Banjar, on the southern coast, which was abandoned by Marshal Daendels, the Governor-general of Nether lands, India, in 1810; the sultan paying them, by agreement, the sum of 50,000 Spanish dollars for the forts and buildings. They had previously, in the year 1687, attacked Sucadana, at the instigation of the Sultan of Bantam, for the purpose of replacing the b BRITISH AND DUTCH disinherited sultan, Gura Laya, on his throne. This territory was afterwards ceded to the Dutch by the then Sultan of Bantam in 1778, in which year they established a fort and factory at the neighbouring flourishing Malay settlement of Pontianak, from which they destroyed the rival flourishing and independent states of Mampawa and Sucadana. Pontianak itself, says Mr. Crawfurd, " soon fell in consideration under their influence, until their removal and unrestricted trade once more restored it in our times."

They occupied it at this time during fourteen years. In 1823, they again possessed themselves of Pontianak, which they now retain. Soon after the Dutch had left Ban jar, in 1810, the Earl of Minto received at Malacca an embassy from the sultan, requesting the English to settle, which was accepted ; and when Java was taken possession of by the British in 1811, a factory was established there. This settlement was delivered over to the Dutch on the restoration of Java, and they still retain it. The remaining Dutch settlement is at Sambas, on the western coast : it was formed in 1823, the Hollanders paying a sum of money to the sultan for the monopoly of the trade. It had previously been a nest of pirates, who were destroyed by Eng lish ships of war, sent from Batavia for that purpose, in 1812.

With the exception of a British residency formed from Balambangan during our short occupation of that island, at Bruni, and which was soon after wards abandoned on account of internal commotions in that state, these are the only settlements which SETTLEMENTS. have been established by Europeans on the island, and none of them have ever prospered ; even those wliich the Dutch now maintain being reported to be an annual expense to the government. The English, in the year 1773, formed a settlement at Balambangan, an island off the northern coast of Borneo, which had been ceded to them by the Soolus, together with a portion of the opposite coast, from the river Kimanis on the west, to the great bay on the eastern side of the island. Two years after the settlement had been made, the English were attacked by the Soolus, and driven from the place in February, 1775.

In 1803 the settlement was again attempted, but soon voluntarily abandoned. The above comprise the whole of the settlements wliich had been made on the island previously to the establishment of Mr. Brooke at Sara wak, and the failure of all of them is to be attributed to the monopolies and illiberal principles of the Euro pean nations or companies which formed them. In consequence of the languid state of the Euro pean settlements, the true geographical position of the points and headlands of its shores has to this day remained unascertained ; but the recent survey of Sir E. Belcher, of H.M.S. ' Samarang,' which has lately returned, and Lieut. Gordon, of H.M.S. 'Royalist,' who is now engaged on the northern part of the island, will soon enable the Admiralty to furnish a more correct chart of the western shores, though the eastern are still unexplored.

These, however, cannot long remain unknown, as the settlement to be formed at Labuh-an MOUNTAINS. will probably soon find it necessary, for the extermi nation of the piratical inhabitants, to have them fully investigated. In geographical features this island presents us with great variety. It has high mountains, magnificent rivers, extensive lakes, and probably, in the northern part of the island, considerable plains. The mountains are disposed in a range which traverses the island from its N. E. extremity in a south-westerly direction ; in the northern division they are very high, Kina Balou being nearly 14,000 feet. They appear gradually to decrease in height as they approach the south-western shore ; about the middle of the island they are observed inland of Tanjong Barram 8,000 and 9,000 feet high ; but westerly, in the Pontianak country, as they approach the sea, they are from 2,000 to 4,000 feet in height.

The heights of many of the principal peaks of the northern part of the island have been recently ascer tained by Lieut. Gordon, but as his observations are not yet published I am unable to avail myself of them. Kina Balou (the Chinese widow), which is situated about eighteen miles inland, and at the foot of which is Malludu Bay, is supposed much to exceed any of the others in height. I have been informed by the Rajahs of Borneo that it derives its name from the cir cumstance of its summit having been in former times the residence of a female spirit of great beauty, of whom it is said a Chinese prince of Bruni (before the time of its conversion to the religion of Mahomet), RIVERS. became enamoured, and, wishing to obtain her in marriage, made a journey intending to visit her resi dence, but, losing his footing, fell over one of the rocky precipices near the top, and was killed.