Talks on successful gowning

Introduction

£yOOjy dressing, nowadays, as every Avoman 1^ knows, who is at all interested in clothes \M — and all nice women are — is not, by any means, a question of mone}^ Some women manage to look well dressed on a distinctly small allowance, while others will appear positively dowdy even though the expenditure may have been three times the amount spent by those attractively gowned.

Clearly then, it must be a proper selection of color and design that makes for success in feminine dressing, choosing only those that will tend to bring out the best points of the wearer, or disguise any defects which are known to exist.

This is easily said, I know, but not all women are gifted with an instinct for selecting exactly what is suited to them. This does not imply that they lack good taste. Not at all. Such persons will often most wisely criticize the toilets worn by their friends, but Avhen it comes to choosing for themselves their confidence is apt to forsake them. They know intuitively when anything is altogether wrong, but lack the power of being able to suggest a remedy. This class of women — and it includes the majority let me say — are those who suffer most from sartorial errors. Far better for their peace of mind were they absolutely

Introduction.

ignorant of the laws governing successful dressing. Fortunately for the world, however, the number of the latter type is comparatively small, and I am inclined to believe it may be still lessened, for every woman certainly wishes to look her best and Avhen she does not, it must be because she lacks the knoAvledge of hoiv to appear so.

This cannot be her excuse if she will carefully peruse the pages of this book giving special attention to the chapter or chapters that treat of her individual needs as she realizes them.

What shall I wear that I may appear becomingly and tastefully gowned is a question that confronts every normal woman from girlhood to old age.

Neither is the problem confined to any particular class — unless, perhaps, to those very wealthy women Avho can afford to place themselves in the hands of sartorial artistes, but with them these pages have nothing to do.

Such a woman is in a position to pay people to think for her as well as to clothe her.

There are thousands of women, however, who are not placed so fortunately as these daughters of wealth, but who desire nevertheless to make the most of their physical endowments b}^ being attractively gowned.

This fact is evidenced by the large number of letters received by the writer who has for many years conducted a Consulting Dressmakers^ Bureau through the columns of the newspapers throughout the breadth of the land, and the following pages have for their actual basis the

Introduction.

queries that are daily received by her for intelligent answering.

It should be understood at the outset that this is not a treatise on fashions but rather a book of reference that may be appealed to whenever there arises a question on dress which cannot be satisfactorily answered.

Is it a very tempting new shade that a brown-haired woman longs to wear but is in doubt as to whether it will become her? Then let her consult the chapter devoted to colors that will suit the brunette type.

Again, should the short stout woman look longingly upon a frock she sees displayed upon a tall slender figure? I say, before deciding the question let her find out by consulting the directions for models suited to her own particular style whether such a model may be worn by her with equal success.

Perhaps the little countr}^ dressmaker — for it should be remembered that this class comprises a large number of the inquiring correspondents — is puzzled in regard to the design that Mrs. A. has chosen for herself, doubtful whether it will be a success sartorial ly.

It will be the easiest way in the world to settle the matter if she has such a hand book as this within easy reach. She turns at once to the page devoted to the styles adapted expressly for women of that type to which Mrs. A. belongs and if, in her opinion the lady is in error, she will by certain devices lead Mrs. A. to change her opinion with results gratifying to both. Mrs. A.

Introduction.

will be becomingly gowned and the dressmaker's artistic knowledge will be exemplified.

Another question that is often puzzling to +he majority of women, especially those who do not go out into society a good deal, is "the toilet that will suit the occasion."

An appropriately dressed woman is a well dressed woman, and a well dressed woman is a happy woman; while on the contrary, there is no mortification which can equal that felt when she finds herself either over or under dressed.

Such painful experiences may be entirely avoided by referring to the chapter describing appropriate costumes suitable for wearing upon any designated occasion.

For the busy woman who employs a dressmaker going out by the day this little work will be invaluable, saving time certainly and probably nerves and temper also. No matter whether only one is to be sewn for or a dozen, or whether one type or many is to be catered to, all necessary information may be obtained and every word authoritative.

Blondes and brunettes may find their becoming colors in the chapters treating the question in detail, and those of the between color type have been equally well considered.

Every gray haired woman is by no means an old one also, but every gray haired woman will do well to consult the chapter devoted to their needs, if they would look their best.

Although the trials of the thin woman are less than those of her stout sister still she has minor

Introduction.

woes, and hoAV to cure tliem, may be learnt from reading the chapter devoted to "Dressing the Thin Woman."

The stout woman will need no urging to read I know, for I am one of them myself and so have made a special study of the needs of this class. In my experience every stout woman who aims to be up-to-date is ever on the watch and alert for any advice that will be a means to such end.

Theory has taught me a good deal but the knowledge cannot compare with the amount I have gained through experimenting to suit individual needs.

Women who are just losing their first youth may with profit read the chapter devoted to "Passee Women.''

Mothers of school girls and indeed the girls themselves will be interested in the chapter specially written for their benefit.

The prospective bride will find much that will be helpful to her if she will turn to the pages which set forth clearly each detail of the wedding from beginning to end.

Perhaps a set of furs is to be bought, or being already in possession of them, the owner lacks knowledge of their preservation. In either case the information gained by reading the "Chapter on Furs'' will be worth alone a great deal more than the price of the book.

The same may be said of the pages devoted to millinery that shall be becoming to the different types. Selecting a hat is always a difficult

Introduction.

question, yet help may be found by a glance at "Millinery Hints."

Veils are an expensive item in a woman's wardrobe, and much information in regard to choice and suitability is given in the chapter written on these filmy accessories.

Perhaps one of the most interesting articles in the book to women generally will be the advice given to those who contemplate a visit to the photographers.

Others again may like to read about becoming coiffures. All these subjects are treated extensively within these pages.

There may be much that will be news to women in the chapter on Corsets. Anyway, one will be quite repaid for reading it.

Persons who love jewels should certainly see what I have to say on the subject.

Sadly enough, in the time of bereavement women are not exempt from considering the question of clothes so I conclude my book with a lengthy talk on conventional mourning with the hope that the task of selecting mourning attire may be made a little lighter for those placed in this sad position.

That this volume may be helpful throughout to the army of women who are daily wrestling with the problem of becoming gowning is the sincere wish of

Yours very sincerely,

Elizabeth Lee.

Chapter I . Klondes

PROBABLY since the world began it has been the desire of every normal woman to be beautiful or, at least, to appear attractive in the sight of others, and when nature has not been too generous with her gifts, she will, as a rule, use every means to augment or enhance such charms as she may already possess.

Instinctively her thoughts turn toward dress, feeling that the proper clothing of the body is the most important aid in producing the results she longs to attain. Without a doubt she is entirely right. There is no factor more potent. The greatest professional beauty, not always a synonymous term with natural, certainly studies the choice of her toilets with much more care and thought than those women supposedly less favored by nature. Often her reputation for beauty has been gained solely because she has discovered exactly the right colors and designs that will bring out in the best manner her good points and conceal imperfections, for even a reigning beauty is not faultless in form and feature.

She has only by such knowledge managed to conceal defects, and thus offered to the world perfect beauty — apparently.

Now this knowledge or intuition as it may be

Talks on Successful Gowning.

termed, is not possessed by every woman, I know, but there is no reason why it may not be attained, at least, to the extent of mastering the rules of form and color in relation to dress.

Anyway, a student cannot but be benefited who will only make an attempt of the study, and in the following pages, I hope to give such detailed advice and simple reasoning as to be within the power of every woman to understand who will take the trouble to read them. Indeed I trust the perusal may be rather a pleasure than a task.

Taking the subject of coloring first. If all the women in the world were included in just two types, the genuine blonde and the true brunette, the question of becoming colors would be a very simple one, because the one type would follow the laws set forth for their guidance and the other the rules relating to their particular coloring.

These types, however, are divided into a number of different clashes, each, of course, requiring a different treatment. This is what makes it difficult for a woman whose natural coloring differs from the true types to choose exactly what will be most becoming to her. She probably knows wiiat colors a real brunette or a perfect blonde should wear but she also is aware that she represents neither type and consequently the question of becoming colors becomes somewhat of a problem to her.

Genuine Blonde.

First, we have the genuine blonde. Her skin

Blondes.

is fair, her hair light golden and her cheeks tinted with a delicate pink.

Then there is a blonde of deeper coloring, the skin creamy rather than white and the faint flush heightened to red, the type often spoken of as the ^'strawberry and cream blonde.''

Next is the colorless blonde, an entirely opposite type, with pale waxy skin, the eyes usually blue, blue-gray or perhaps violet.

Then there is the blonde of the Titian locks, a type that requires a good deal of judgment in choosing successful colors for it; the ash blonde and the sallow blonde.

Now it is perfectly obvious that the same colors will not suit alike every class of blonde. Those that would serve to emphasize the charms of the voluptuous blonde would be entirely too overpowering if adopted by, say the colorless or the ash blonde. Their delicate tints would be simply killed by the bright vivid tones the golden blonde finds so becoming. General laws and rules therefore must be insufficient, so for this reason I propose to go largely into detail, treating each class separately, and in this way hope to make these pages practically valuable.

The genuine blonde is perhaps the easiest class to gown successfully. She is known by her fair skin, sometimes waxy but quite healthy looking, often transparent, a faint pink tint upon the cheeks, ripe lips inclining to scarlet, and hair that may vary in shade from pale gold to golden brown. Her eyes may be blue, blue-gray, greenish-gray and sometimes violet. This type seldom

Talks on Successful Gowning.

possess pure gray eyes, though brown is by no means unusual.

The colors that will suit a genuine blonde are all shades of blue, including blue-grays, turquoise and peacock, a pearl gray, dove and warm grays, pale and dark green, very pale pink, cherry color, very dark red, mauve, heliotrope, old rose, pale yellow (especially good when the hair is sunny), lemon, purple, wistaria, very dark brown (but not golden brown), also black and white.

Now and again, a woman of the genuine blonde type will possess a slight tinge of green in the eyes, and when this is so, true baby or sky blue should never be worn, for it will surely destroy all the brightness of the eyes and impart a nondescript hue that is neither green nor blue.

She can wear turquoise, because there is a touch of green in it. Pale pink too is often exceedingly becoming, so that this shade may be to this type exactly what pale blue is to the blue-eyed blonde.

The blonde of more vivid coloring must be careful in her choice of colors, otherwise she is apt to appear over-dressed or common and not infrequently loud.

The hair will be aggressively golden perhaps, the lips scarlet and the flush on the cheeks so bright as to appear almost unnatural. As a rule, this type looks best in an all black toilette, but the material selected must be in a dull, soft jet (not blue) black. White, too, will be good, but in choosing colors those too strong in tone must be strictly avoided if the best results are to be

U

Blondes.

attained. The pastel rather than the genuine tones should be selected. Faded blues, greens and heliotropes are admirable, and so are black, very dark brown and dark green. Palest pink she can wear — a tint so faint as to suggest a reflection only — while a light shade of buff will be better than a pure ^^ellow, especially if the hair is inclined to be a bright shade of gold. Straw color hair and sunny yellow make a charming combination, but the colder tones of yellow harmonize better when the hair is golden. Coming to the red-haired blonde, this type is divided into two classes. There is the blue-eyed, pink and white type, the hair apparently a fiery red; and the blonde of the clear, colorless skin, not pale exactly, but a healthy ivory tint, usually accompanied by dark eyes, scarlet lips and hair more auburn than red, though often the hair will be of the same tint as that possessed by the blue-eyed blonde. It only seems to be darker because it does not suffer by the contrast with the blue eyes. The latter type is the easier of the two to dress successfully, although both can be most attractive looking if only the right colors are chosen. As green and the heliotrope shades have a tendency to increase the pallor of the skin, it is obvious these colors should be avoided by the pale, colorless, auburn-haired blonde. At the same time these colors in every tone will be extremely becoming to the pink and white blonde of this type. She will, too, be lovely in pearl and dove gray, maize, sunset yellow and apricot color. Cream or ivory will be more becoming

Talks on Successful Gowning.

than pure white, and black with a shiny surface will be better than a dull, black material. It is, I know, generally believed that the auburn-haired blonde can successfully wear golden brown and pale blue, yet never was there a gTeater mistake. Certain browns, notably golden, will surely kill every trace of gold in the hair and absolutely lighten the eyes, eyebrows and eyelashes. If the eyes are blue, then a faded washed-out hue steals into them, while the lashes shading them and the brows above actually appear straw color.

In my opinion, yellowish browns and fawn shades are really the very worst colors that could be chosen by this type, although the genuine baby blues are really very little better. They act, however, in an opposite direction, and, instead of reducing the red tints in the hair, dulling the owner into insignificance as do the yellow browns, they simply intensify the red, bringing out all tJie fiery redness rather than the gold in the hair.

Rich, deep dark browns, as seen in sealskin or velvet, she can wear and look extremely well in them. By contrast the golden tints in the hair will be brought out, the complexion will become clear and delicate, while eyebrows and eyelashes will actually appear dark. So is not the question of becoming colors a most important one to this type or, indeed, any type of woman? One has only to imagine a red-haired woman wearing a pale, yellowish tan-colored coat and another one of the same class dressed in a rich,

Blondes.

glossy sealskin to be convinced how simply impossible are the yellow browns.

Colors becoming generally to the blue-eyed, auburn-tressed woman are black, milk white, gray, pale and dark green, navy blue, peacock blue, blue gray, cadet blue, mauve, purple, cream, and if the shade is chosen by an artiste, then crimson will suit this type.

Speaking generally, however, all shades of either pink or red should be strictly avoided.

The Sallow Blonde.

The sallow blonde is most unfortunately placed, for very few colors are becoming to her. Cream and deep ivory should be chosen in preference to pure white, and bright, dark reds, as rich cardinal, will have a tendency to whiten the skin. \A arm grays relieved with a little burnt orange and creamy or ecru lace will have the same effect. Yellow and pale orange may be selected as colors for evening gowns, relieved by creamy lace near the face. Rich red and flamingo tones, too, will be very kind; but lighttinted laces should not be used in combination. The gown should be entirely of one color, lightened by a little well-chosen jewelry, or a bertha of fine black thread lace is considered becoming to the wearer's age and build. A plump neck will be pretty encircled by a slight chain supporting a pendant, a thin or scrawny throat will find the lace drapery more charitable.

The colorless blonde and the ash blonde are often included in the same class. It is true the

Talks on Successful Gowning.

types resemble each other closely, although it will be observed that while the complexion of the former is absolutely devoid of color, the ash blonde possesses just the faintest flush of pink in the cheeks and usually red lips. Her hair, too, is less blonde in hue. Some people call it drab in fact.

The ash blonde will look her best in pearly white, soft black and dove grays. All strong colors must be strictly avoided and only the most delicate tones of certain shades be chosen. The pastel Avill be more becoming than genuine colors. Parma mauve, wistaria, peach, apricot, lily leaf green, blue-mauve, pale blue, the palest shell pink and reseda are all good, while for street wear the ash blonde may select from the list of blue-grays, Avarm gray, deep brown, rich navy blue, purple, dark heliotrope and dark green.

Strong colors, as red, cardinal, cherry color, terra cotta, wine shades and orange should be strictly avoided.

The colorless blonde cannot, however, successfully wear the purple, black or greens, because these tones have a tendency to increase the pallor of the skin. Gray is a good color for bringing out any pink tints that may be lurking there, therefore may stand first on the list of colors for the colorless blonde. Other shades that may follow are white, cream, blue, blue-gray, peach color, navy blue, very pale pink, old rose, palest mauve tinged with pink, lemon color, golden brown, cadet and Alice blues.

Blondes.

Sandy Hair.

Then there is the sandy-haired woman to be catered to. Her hair is neither golden nor red; her eyebrows and lashes usually light and eyes a pale blue or grayish green.

This type will do well to confine toilets to black and white if the best there is in hair and complexion are to be brought out. In certain colors she will be a nonentity, in others common looking. Black and white is her safeguard. Green will not be bad if she has a slight flush of pink on her cheeks, or red, healthy lips, and the same may be said of rich purples and violet. Mauve should be approached with caution or the result will be decidedly what may be termed wishy- Avashy, All black and all creamy white are good, but the combination of the two is better.

When the skin is pale, then the black about the face should be either transparent or relieved Avith creamy lace. Cream cashmere with touches of black or deep rich brown (not golden) will be effective, and so will white crepe de chine if given a toning of fine black lace.

When the eyes are grayish green, then green is a safe choice, either alone or combined with gray. Gray with amethyst trimmings will suit this type, as gray crepe relieved with a little pansy velvet and amethyst ornaments. An evening gown of black net with velvet pansies in their natural colorings as a decoration will transform an insignificant little sandy-haired woman into a very *^fair one to look upon.'' Regarded upon the whole as a plain type, it can by judicious dressing be made a very pretty one.

Talks on Successful Gowning.

Chapter II. Brunettes

^▼OMING to the brunettes, we liud quite as m/ many different classes included in this ^^ type as there are among the blondes.

There is the genuine brunette; the creamy brunette ; the fair brunette ; the sallow brunette ; the brunette whose coloring suggests the deep, rich tints of Autumn and the olive-skinned brunette.

The genuine brunette is, of course, the easiest type to dress successfully. Her dark eyes, dark hair and dark skin form a whole so entirely harmonious that there should be no difficulty whatever in giving it a proper setting.

As a rule, a pink flush and red lips accompany (he rich, dark skin, and when this is so, it will be found that there is quite a long list of colors to choose from.

Women of this type can Avear cream, ivory, every shade of yellow, also orange, red, cardinal, crimson, Indian red, the flamingo pinkish reds, fawn, tan, silver-gray, pale rose and pale coral l>ink, pale and dark blue, old rose, the odd, reddish shades of terra cotta, ecru, golden brown and dark green.

The last named, however, should not be attempted if there is an absence of color in cheeks

Brunettes.

and lips, or if there is a trace of sallowness in the skin, because this color has a tendency to increase pallor and also deepen the yellow tint.

Violet, mauves and greeny-blues are not becoming colors for the brunette generally, and should be most strictly avoided by the colorless, sallow class of this type.

Black may be worn by the brunette possessing a good complexion, but should always be relieved with creamy lace near the face.

For evening wear the genuine brunette, if youthful, will look her best in a pale cream or ivory-white — never should the dead chalk-white be chosen b}^ any chance. Older w^omen of this type may select from every existing tone of yellow, pale orange and the reds. The deep reddish pink of the watermelon and the wing of the flamingo is, too, very often quite becoming.

For outdoor wear, navy blues, golden browns, golden tan, dark red and rich deep emerald green are especially good colors.

The Creamy Brunette.

Next on the list is the creamy brunette. Her skin is usually pale but w^arm looking, differing from the colorless blonde in this respect, the hair brown or black, and eyes blue, violet or brown. As a rule, the lips are red and the skin, though always pale, is perfectly clear and smooth.

When the eyes are dark the creamy brunette may choose her colors among the yellows, amber, warm gray, relieved with a little pale pink — deep red, golden brown, rich golden tan, old

Talks on Successful Gowning.

rose, pale pinks that possess a trace of yellow, as salmon, pale and dark blue, lemon color, cream and ivory-white.

Greens, mauves, violets, pale tans and purples should not be worn for the reasons given before.

The creamy brunette possessing blue, blue-gray or violet eyes will appear to advantage in a gown of crimson for day wear and poppy-red for evening.

Other colors belonging to this type are gray-blue, silver-gray, deep rich blue, golden brown, golden tan (but not pale tan, known as natural), every shade of old rose and also flame color. Pearl gray, too, will be found very kind to this type of bininette, deepening any pinky tint that may steal into the cheeks and heightening the scarlet of the lips most agreeably.

The Fair Brunette.

The fair brunette is not by any means a difficult type to dress successfully. Her hair is dark, of course, though often not as dark really as it appears to be. It is simply the result of contrast. The hair of the genuine brunette and that of the fair brunette may be of exactly the same shade, but by reason of the whiteness of the skin of the latter the hair will appear to be darker than that of the genuine brunette whose coloring is less delicate. The eyes of the fair brunette may be blue, varying in tone from pale China blue to deep sapphire, gray, gray -blue or violet. The skin will show a faint, pink flush and lips only a shade or two darker in tint.

Brunettes.

Warm blues will be the very best color for this type. The shades may be light or dark, but the rich, deep tones of royal or Chinese blue will perhaps be the best possible choice. All shades of gray may be worn and will be found especially becoming if relieved with a little pale coral pink or a delicate yellow, also golden brown, golden tans, sulphur, banana, mustard, amber, silver and blue-gray. Maize, cream and ivory will suit this type, also dark green if the complexion is perfectly free from the slightest trace of sallowness. Pale tans may only be worn when the hair is very dark and the eyes quite decided in color.

The fair brunette may add dark red, shell pink, blue, white and black to her list of colors for evening wear.

The one point that this type should bear in mind is that she cannot successfully wear the strong colors that are so becoming to the genuine brunette, but only an echo of them, as it were. She must remember that overstrong, pronounced colors will surely kill the delicate tints of her coloring. For instance, while the genuine brunette may with success wear vivid yellows, the fair brunette must select this color in a lesser tone, say as found in maize or amber.

Silver-blue and pearl-gray are a good choice when the pink coloring in the face is very faint, but should not be worn when color is entirely absent, because these tones will be too cold to suit this class of fair brunette.

Black-Haired Brunette.

Passing on to the black-haired type of bru-

Talks on Successful Gowning.

nette we find usually a dark-brown skin, with or without color in the cheeks. She has, as a rule, extremely good teeth and more than oiten beautiful eyes. Such eyes as are described as large, soft and lustrous. This is a type that requires most careful dressing, for by reason of her very pronounced coloring, it is difficult to plan a toilet that will prove harmonious. Unless due attention is given the result is apt to be vulgar or, to say the least, very loud looking. It is, I know, generally believed that yellow is ^^the" color for the black-haired brunette. Used judiciously there is no objection to the color, but black and yellow is seldom a happy combination for this type, and one has only to think of the stage "villainess" to be convinced of the fact. This lady, as a rule, is gowned in black, "relieved" with vivid yellow. Behind the footlights the toilet is quite correct, because it represents the character, and is an aid toward emphasizing the flashing eyes, the scarlet lips and crimson cheeks, but it is entirely too startling for wear in private life. In my opinion, this type should never wear black unless unavoidable. An entire gown of pale amber will be admirable as a means of setting off the dark beauty of the wearer. There should, however, be no contrasting color if the best results are to be attained. Trimmings and accessories may be of a darker shade, but they must be along the same line of color as the gown.