Brazil and the Brazilians ... in historical and descriptive sketches ... Engravings

Front matter

BRAZIL AND The Brazilians PORTRAYED IN HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. BY REV. JAMES C. FLETCHER AND REV. D. P. KIDDER, D.D. Illustrated by One Hundred and Fifty Engravings. NINTH EDITION. revised and brought down to date. LONDON: SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, AND RIVINGTON. I879. ■/,V JD z£l> jcX JL> JL Ju> n iinsin.1, mAWS f r.li.Cl i|.T< i.N \i\,.\-r.Ar//jj.,.u s'.vi... Ft. ki.ktcmkus.kiddku'sHma/ii.am.thk.Hwazii.ians". PUitiSjrrri blj '•'TTI.K.DIfOW.N fcC?, BOSTON, MASS. The demand for a ninth edition of this work is an index that the reading public, in America and England, takes a deep interest in the subject of Brazil ; and that the authors, in their attempt to prepare an acceptable book on the leading country of South America, have not labored in vain. The eighth edition had become exceedingly scarce ; copies commanded three times the original price ; and standing orders for the book, both in London and New York, for four years resulted in obtaining but a single second-hand volume.

Upon inquiring into the reason for this scarcity, it was found to con sist in the fact (1) that the historical portion of " Brazil and the Brazilians " gave the book a permanent place in both public and private libraries ; and (2) that the interest aroused in the United States, by the statistics published in this work, which showed the increasing importance of Brazil in a commercial point of view, caused this volume to fall into the hands of parties who never send their books to what are termed in America " antiquarian book-stores." In this ninth edition there has been no abridgment of the. descriptions of nature in Brazil, and the manners and customs of the people — descriptions which led the London Athenæum to say, in its review of the first edition, that " Brazil was never before so fully, so faithfully, so artistically photographed."

The historical portions have been brought down to date. It is in no spirit of boasting, but it is only in accordance with truth to say, that " Brazil and the Brazilians " contains the only continuous general history of the Empire in any language. Southey's great book on the history of Brazil, now exceedingly rare, does not even conclude with the first quarter of this century. Armitage's continuation of that history only reaches the period of the Regency, — in point of time nearly a half century ago, — and this work is altogether out of print. In the Portu guese language the late Visconde do Porto Seguro (Varnhagen) amassed and published a vast amount of material for future historians, but he treated mainly of the Colonial Period. Sr. Pereira da Silva is now publishing at Rio de Janeiro what he purposes to be an exhaustive history of his native land.

Preface

. The popular notion of Brazil is, to a certain extent, delineated in the accompanying side-illustrations. Mighty rivers and virgin forests, palm-trees and jaguars, anacondas and alligators, howling monkeys and screaming parrots, diamond-mining, revolutions, and earthquakes, are the com ponent parts of the picture formed in the mind's eye. It is probably hazarding no thing to say that a very large majority of general readers are better acquainted with China and India than with Brazil. How few seem to be aware that in the distant Southern Hemisphere is a stable constitutional mon archy, and a growing na tion, occupying a territory of greater area than that of the United States, and that the descendants of the Preface. 4 Portuguese hold the same relative position in South America as the descendants of the English in the northern half of the New World!

How few Protestants are cognizant of the fact that in the territory of Brazil the Reformed religion was first proclaimed on the Western Continent! The following work, by two whose experience in the Bra zilian Empire embraces a period of twenty years, endeaArors faithfully to portray the history of the country, and, by a narrative of incidents connected with travel and residence in the land of the Southern Cross, to make known the manners, customs, and advancement of the most progressive people south of the Equator. While "Itineraries" relating to journeys of a few months in various portions of the Empire have been recently published, no general work on Brazil has been issued in Europe or America since the "Sketches" of the senior author, (D.P. K.,) which was most favorably received in England and the United States, but has long been out of print.

Although the present volume is the result of a joint effort, the desire for greater uniformity caused the senior author to place his contributions in the hands of his junior colleague, (J. C. F.,) with the permission to use the name of the former in the third person singular. The amount of matter from each pen is, however, more nearly equal than at first sight would appear. The authors have consult ed every important work in French, German, English, and Portuguese, that could throw light on the history of Brazil. Preface. 5 and likewise various published memoirs and discourses read before the flourishing " Geographical and Historical Society " at Rio de Janeiro. For statistics they have either personally examined the Imperial and provincial archives, or have quoted directly from Brazilian state papers.

The numerous illustrations are, with few exceptions, either from sketches, or photographic views taken on the spot. All have been faithfully as well as skil fully executed by Messrs. Van Ingen & Snyder, of Philadelphia. The accompanying map, prepared by Messrs. G. W. & C. B. Colton & Co. is probably the best ever pub lished of an Empire which has never been surveyed. In 1855 the junior author travelled more than three thousand miles in Brazil, making corrections of this map as he journeyed. Note for 1879. By a slip of the graver, Tabatinga, on the Amazon, in Brazil, has been made on the map to belong to Peru. The error was not discovered until the edition of the otherwise very correct map was worked off. NOTES FOR THOSE GOING TO BRAZIL. The Portuguese language is universally spoken in Brazil.

It is not a dialect of the Spanish, but is a distinct tongue : as Vieyra says, it is the eldest daughter of the Latin. Portuguese and French are the Court languages. One-sixth of the population of large cities and towns speak French. Those acquainted wish the French. Italian, or Spanish easily acquire the Portuguese. English is taught in all the higher schools. The best work for conveying a true knowledge of English and American literature to Brazilians and Portuguese is the '* Chrestomathiada Lingua Inglesa " by Sr. J. C. Rodrigues (A. S. Barnes & Co., New York). While Messrs. Triibner & Co. in London, and the Messrs. Appleton, in New York, have published manuals for learning the Portuguese, it may be of advantage to state that if an Englishman or Anglo-American can give to the vowels the Continental sound, learn the contractions, accents. &c, and the peculiarities of two or three consonants lie will find the Portu guese the easiest of all foreign tongues.

The termination So is pronounced almost like own in the English werd noun. Words ending in 6es are pronounced as if an n were inserted between the t and the s. Thus, Camoes, English Camoens. Terminations em and im are very nearly pronounced like eng and ing in English : e. g. Jerusalem is pronounced Jerusale/i^-. X has the force of S/i ; thus, one of the great affluents of the Amazon, Xingii, is pronounced Shingu. The word Dom, idominus,) which always precedes the name of the Emperor, is not used indiscrimi nately like the Don of the Spanish, but is a title applied by the Portuguese and their descendants only to monarchs, princes, and bishops. One milreis, (a thousand reis,) about fifty-six cents, or two shillings and sixpence English. The Brazilian unit-coin is always represented by the dollar sign a fur the mil : thus, 5Sr500 are five mil and five hundred reis, — about three dollars.

A conto of reis is little more than £112 Clothes, of course, should be of a character adapted to the tropics ; but always take some woollen garments, for in the interior, and south of Bahia, the thermometer often indicates 60° Fahrenheit It hardly need be added that a dress-coat is indispensable for those going to the palace. All personal effects, like wearing apparel, are admitted duty free; but the traveller would do well to remember that he should not be overstocked with cigars. There are many drawbacks at the custom-house in favor of goods belonging to emigrants, as agricultural implements, machinery, &c , &c. (vide page 333 and the concluding chapter of this work.) As to the Patent Laws, mode of obtaining certain privileges for inventions, &c. William V Lid gerwood, Esq., (United States Charge d'Affaires in 1865-66,) can give more information than any other person in Brazil.

The Lidgerwood Manufacturing Company (of which Mr William V Lidgerwood is a member) manufactures and imports plantation and agricultural machinery for all parts of Brazil. Undoubtedly the strongest and oldest established American house in Brazil is that of Henry Forster & Co., of Pernambuco. Messrs. J. M. Wright & Co., and Messrs. Wright & Co., of Rio de Janeiro, are the largest commission and exporting American merchants at the capital. At Para, Mr. Bond is the representative of American commerce on the Amazon. Mr. 0. C. James, the successor of Messrs. Fales & Duncan, is the agent of the Novo Mundo at Rio de Janeiro ; and executes general commissions, including railway plant. Gamier at Rio de Janeiro and Guelph de Lailhacar at Pernambuco keep English and American standard works. Hotels in Brazil are not equal to those in Europe or the States.

At Rio all have high prices, ranging, according to room, from ten shillings English to £1. The Exchange Hotel and Hotel dos Estrangeiros are the best English hotels in the capital. Hotel d'Europa is the best French hotel. Bennett's, an hour from Rio, is the most comfortable place in Brazil. In Bahia, Hotel Furtin is a good restaurant, and convenient to those arriving from sea. At Pernambuco, the Hotel Universe! has the same recommendations. The hotels of Bahia and Pernambuco are small, compared with those of Rio. The prices of 1866 (pages 295 and 290) are from one-third to one-half higher in 1866, —except at Petropolis, at which place are several good hotels. I. PAGE The Bay of Rio de Janeiro — Historic Reminiscences — First Sight of the Tropics — Entrance to the Harbor — Night-Scenes — Impressions of Beauty and Grandeur — Gardner and Stewart — The Capital of Brazil — Distinction of Rio de Janeiro 13

Chapter II

Landing — Hotel Pharoux — Novel Sights and Sounds — The Palace Square — Rua Direita — Exchange — The " Team" — Musical Coffee-Carriers — Custom-House — Lessons in Portuguese, and Governor Kent's Opinion of Brazil — Post-Office — -Dislike of Change — Senhor Jose Maxwell — Rua do Ouvidor — Shops and Feather- Flowers — The Brazilian Omnibus can be full — Narrow Streets and Police-Regulations — A Suggestion to relieve Broadway, New York — Passeio Publico — Brazilian Politeness — The " Gondola" — The Brazilian imperturbable — Lack of Hotels — First Night in Rio de Janeiro 24

Chapter III

Discovery of South America — Pinzon's Visit to Brazil — Cabral — Coelho — Americus Vespucius — The Name " Brazil" — Bay of Rio de Janeiro — Martin Affonso de Souza — Past Glory of Portugal — Coligny's Huguenot Colony — The Protestant Banner first unfurled in the New World — Treachery of Villegagnon — Contest between the Portuguese and the French — Defeat of the Latter — San Sebastian founded — Cruel Intolerance — Reflections 46

Chapter IV

Early State of Rio — Attacks of the French — Improvements under the Viceroys — Arrival of the Royal Family of Portugal — Rapid Political Changes — Departure of Dom John VI. — The Viceroyalty in the Hands of Dom Pedro — Brazilians dissatisfied with the Mother-Country — Declaration of Independence — Acclamation of Dom Pedro as Emperor 6]

Chapter V

The Andradas — Instructions of the Emperor to the Constituent Assembly — Dom Pedro I. dissolves the Assembly by Force — Constitution framed by a Special Commission — Considerations of this Document — The Rule of Dom Pedro I. — Causes of Dissatisfaction — The Emperor abdicates in favor of Dom Pedro II 73 7 9* VI. 1-A.QB The Praia do Flamengo — The Three-Man Beetle — Splendid Views — The Man who cut down a Palm-Tree —Moonlight — Rio " Tigers " — The Bathers — Gloria Hill — Evening Scene — The Church — Marriage of Christianity and Heathenism — A Sermon in Honor of Our Lady — Festa da Gloria— The Larangeiras — Ascent of the Corcovado — The Sugar-Loaf 86

Chapter VII

Brotherhoods — Hospital of San Francisco de Paula — The Lazarus and the Rattlesnake — Misericordia — Sailor's Hospital at Jurujuba — Foundling-Hospital — Recolhimento for Orphan-Girls — New Misericordia — Asylum for the Insane — Jose' d'Anchieta, Founder of the Misericordia — Monstrous Legends of the Order — Friar John d'Almeida — Churches — Convents 107

Chapter VIII

Illumination of the City — Early to Bed — Police — Gambling and Lotteries — Municipal Government — Vaccination — Beggars on Horseback — -Prisons — Slavery — Brazilian Laws in favor of Freedom — The Mina Hercules — - English Slave-Holders — Slavery in Brazil Doomed 124

Chapter IX

Religion — The Corruption of the Clergy — Monsignor Bedini — Toleration among the Brazilians — The Padre — Festivals — Consumption of "Wax — The Intrudo — Processions — Anjinhos — Santa Priscilliana — The Cholera not cured by Processions 140

Chapter X

The Home-Feeling — Brazilian Houses — The Girl — The Wife — The Mother — Moorish Jealousy — Domestic Duties — Milk-Cart on Legs — Brazilian Lady's Delight — Her Troubles — The Marketing and Watering — Kill the Bixo —Boston Apples and Ice — Family Recreations — The Boy — The Collegio — Common-Schools — Highest Academies of Learning — The Gentleman — Duties of the Citizen — Elections — Political Parties — Brazilian Statesmen 161

Chapter XI

Praia Grande — San Domingo — Sabbath-Keeping — Mandioca — Ponte de Area —View from Inga — The Armadillo — Commerce of Brazil — The Finest Steamship Voyage in the World — American Seamen's Friend Society — The English Cemetery — English Chapel — Brazilian Funerals — Tijuca — Bennett's — Cascades — Excursions Botanical Gardens — An Old Friend — Home 187

Chapter XII

The Campo Santa Anna — The Opening of the Assemblea Geral — History of Events succeeding the Acclamation of Dom Pedro II — The Regency — Constitutional Reform — Condition of Political Parties before the Revolution of 1840 — Debates in the House of Deputies — Attempt at Prorogation — Movement of Antonio Carlos Deputation to the Emperor — Permanent Session — Acclamation of Dom Pedro's Contents. 9 PiOB Majority — The Assemblj-'s 1'roclamation — Rejoicings — New Ministry — Public Congratulations — Real State of Things — Ministerial Programme — Preparations for the Coronation — Change of Ministry — Opposition come into Power — Coronation postponed — Splendor of the Coronation — Financial Embarrassments — Diplomacy — Dissolution of the Camara — Pretext of Outbreaks — Council of State—Restora tion of Order — Sessions of the Assembly — Imperial Marriages — Ministerial Change — Present Condition 211

Chapter XIII

The Emperor of Brazil — His Remarkable Talents and Acquirements — New York Historical Society — The First Sight of D. Pedro II. — An Emperor on Board an American Steamship — Captain Foster and the " City of Pittsburg" — How D. Pedro II. was received by the " Sovereigns" — An Exhibition of American Arts and Manufactures — Difficulties overcome — Visit of the Emperor — His Knowledge of American Authors — Success among the People — Visit to the Palace of S. Christovao — Longfellow, Hawthorne, and Webster 231

Chapter XIV

Brazilian Literature — The Journals of Rio de Janeiro — Advertisements — The Freedom of the Press — Effort to put down Bible-Distribution — Its Failure — National Library — Museum — Imperial Academies of Fine Arts — Societies — Brazilian Historical and Geographical Institute — Administration of Brazilian Law — Curious Trial 251

Chapter XV

The Climate of Brazil — Its Superiority to other Tropical Countries — Cool Resorts — Trip to St. Alexio — Brazilian Jupiter Pluvius — The Mulatto Improviser — Sydney Smith's " Immortal" Surpassed — A Lady's Impressions of Travel — An American Factory — A Yankee House — The Ride up the Organ Mountains — Forests, Flowers, and Scenery — Speculation in Town-Lots — Boa Vista — Height of the Serra dos Orgoes — Constancia — The " Happy Valley" — The Two Swiss Bachelors — Youth renewed — Prosaic Conclusion — Todd's " Student's Manual" — The Tapir — The Toucan — The Fire-Flies — Expenses of Travelling — Nova Fribourgo — Canta Gallo —Petropolis 268

Chapter XVI

Preparations for the Voyage to the Southern Provinces— The Passengers — Ubatuba — Eagerness to obtain Bibles — The Routine on Board — Aboriginal Names — San Sebastian and Midshipman Wilberforce — Santos — Brazilians at Dinner — Incorrect Judgment of Foreigners — S. Vincente — Order of Exercises — My Cigar — Paranagua — II.B.M. "Cormorant" and the Slavers — Mutability of Maps — Russian Vessels in Limbo — The Prima Donna — An English Engineer — Arrive at San Francisco do Sul 303

Chapter XVII

The Province of Parana — Message of its First President — MatS, or Paraguay Tea — Its Culture and Preparation — Grows in North Carolina. — San Francisco do Sul— Expectations not fulfilled — Canoe-Voyage — My Companions not wholly carnivorous — A Travelled Trunk — The Tolling-Bell Bird — Arrival at Joinville — A New Settlement — Circular on Emigration to Brazil PiOB Colonia Donna Francisca. — The School-Teacher — The Clergyman — A Turk — Bible- Distribution — Suspected — A B C — The Fallen Forest — The House of the Director — A Runaway — The Village Cemetery — Moral Wants — Orchidaceous Plants — Charlatanism — San Francisco Jail — The Burial of the Innocent, and the money-making Padre — The Province of Sta. Catharina — Desterro — Beautiful Scenery — Shells and Butterflies — Coal-Mines — Province of Rio Grande do Sul — Herds and Herdsmen — The Lasso — Indians — Former Provincial Revolts — Present Tranquillity assured by the Overthrow of Rosas and of the Paraguayan Lopez Jr 334

Chapter XIX

Journey to San Paulo — Night-Travelling — Serra do Cubatao — The Heaven of the Moon — Frade Vasconcellos — Ant-Hills — Tropeiros — Curious Items of Trade — Ypiranga — City of San Paulo— Law-Students and Convents — Mr. Mawe's Experience contrasted — Description of the City — Respect for S. Paulo — The Visionary Hotel-Keeper 354

Chapter XX

History of San Paulo — Terrestrial Paradise — Reverses of the Jesuits — Enslavement of the Indians — Historical Data — The Academy of Laws — Course of Study — Distinguished Men — The Andradas — Jose Bonifacio — Antonio Carlos — Alvares Machado — Vergueiro — Bishop Moura — A Visit to Feijo — Proposition to abolish Celibacy — An Interesting Book— The Death of Antonio Carlos de Andrada — High Eulogium — Missionary Efforts in San Paulo — Early and Present Condition of the Province — Hospitalities of a Padre — Encouragements — The People — Proposition to the Provincial Assembly — Response — Result — Addenda — Present Encouragements 366

Chapter XXI

Agreeable Acquaintance — Old Congo's Spurs — Lodging and Sleeping — Company — Campinas — Illuminations — A Night among the Lowly — Arrival at Limeira — A Pennsylvanian— A Night with a Boa Constrictor — Eventful and Romantic Life of a Naturalists— The Bird-Colony destined to the Philadelphia Academy of Natural Sciences — Ybecaba — Sketch of the Vergueiros — Plan of Colonization — Bridge of Novel Construction — Future Prospects 395

Chapter XXII

A New Disease — The Culture of Chinese Tea in Brazil — Modus Operandi The Deceived Custom-House Officials — Probable Extension of Tea-Culture in South America — Homeward Bound — My Companion — Senhor Jose and a Little Difficulty with him — California and the Musical Innkeeper — Early Start and the Star- Spangled Banner— The Senhoros Brotero of S. Paulo — Fourth of July inaugurated in an English Family — "Yankee Doodle" on the Plains of Ypiranga — Lame and Impotent Conclusion — Astronomy under Difficulties — Deliverance — Return to Rio de Janeiro 41g Contents. 11 PAOB

Chapter XXIII

The Brazilian North — Extent of the Empire — The Falls of Itamarity — Gigantic Fig- Tree — The Keel-Bill — A Plantation in Minas-Geraes — Peter Parley in Brazil — Sweet Lemons- — Baronial Style — The Padre — Vesper-Hours — The Plantation- Orchestra — The White Ants obedient to the Church — The Great Ant-Eater — The Paca — The Musical Cart — The Mines and other Resources of Minas-Geraes — Coffee : its History and Culture — The Province of Goyaz — Stingless Bees and Sour Honey — Mato Grosso — Long River-Route to the Atlantic— A New Thoroughfare — Lieutenant Thomas J. Page — The Survey of the La Plata and its Affluents — First American Steamer at Corumba — Steamboat-Navigation on the Paraguay — Officers of the American Navy — Dr. Kane and Lieutenant Strain — Diamond and Gold Mines the Hinderers of Progress — The Difference in the Results from Diamonds and Coffee 432

Chapter XXIV

Cape Frio — Wreck of the Frigate Thetis — Campos — Espirito Santo — Aborigines — Origin of Indian Civilization — The Palm-Tree and its Uses — The Tupi-Guarani — The Lingoa Geral — Ferocity of the Aymores — The City of Bahia — Porters — Cadeiras —History of Bahia — Caramuru — Attack on the Hollanders — Measures taken by Spain — The City retaken — The Dutch in Brazil — Slave-Trade — Sociability of Bahia — Mr. Gilmer, American Consul — The Humming-Bird — Whale-Fishery — American Cemetery — Henry Martyn — Visit to Montserrat — View of the City — The Emperor's Birthday — Medical School — Public Library — Image-Factory — The Wonderful Image of St. Anthony — No Miracle — St. Anthony a Colonel— Visit to Valenca — Daring Navigation — In Pun's Naturalibus — The Factory and Colonel Carson — American Machinery — Skilful Negroes — Return Home — Commerce with the United States 464

Chapter XXV

Departure from Bahia — The Vampire-Bat — His Manner of Attack — The Bitten Negro — Annoyances magnified — Anacondas — One that swallowed a Horse — The Marmoset — Province of Alagoaz — The Republic of Palmares — Pernambuco — The Amenities of Quarantine-Life — Improvements at the Recife — Peculiarities of Pernambucan Houses — Beautiful Panorama — Various Districts of the City— A Bible- Christian — Extraordinary Fanaticism of the Sebastianists — Commerce of Pernambuco — The Population of the Interior— The Sertanejo and Market-Scene — The Sugar and Cotton Mart — The Jangada — Parahiba do Norte — Natal — Ceara — The Padiola — Temperature and Periodical Rains — The City of Maranham — Judge Petit's Description — The Montaria — Departure 503

Chapter XXVI

-M.iguilicence of Nature in the Brazilian North — The City of Para — The Entrance of the Amazon — The first Protestant Sermon on these Waters — Parallel to the Black- Hole oi Calcutta— Effects of Steam-Navigation — Improvements in Para— The Canoa — Bathing and Market Scenes — Produce of Para — India-Rubber — Para Shoes — The Amazon River — -Mr. Wallace's Explorations — The Vaca Marina — Cetacea of tho Amazon — Turtle-Egg Butter — Indian Archery — Brazilian Birds aad Insects— Visit to Rice-Mills near Parii — Journey through the Forest — The Paraense Bishop's Suspicions of Dr. Kidder— State of Religion ut Para .539 PAGE Amazonas — Its Discovery — El Dorado — Goncalo Pizarro — His Expedition — Cruelties — Sufferings - Desertion of Orellana — His Descent of the River — Fable of the Amazons — Fate of the Adventurer — Name of the River — Settlement of the Country — Successive Expeditions up and down the Amazon — Sufferings of Madame Godin — Present State — Victoria Regia — Steam-Navigation — Effects of Herndon and Gibbon's Report — Peruvian Steamers — The Future Prospects of the Amazon 563

Chapter XXVIII

Discussion of Slavery — Effect of Emancipation Law — The Apprentice System — Dom Pedro in Europe — The Emperor in the United States — Brazil at the Centennial — United States Commerce with Brazil — Difficulties of Amer:can Commerce with Brazil — Trade-Mark Treaty 582 Conclusion 598 Notes 609 Diplomatic and Consular Coups, and Orders of Nobility and Knighthood 610 APPENDICES. Appendix A. — Chronological Summary of the Principal Eveiits that have transpired in the History of Brazil 611 Appendix B. — Abstract of the Brazilian Constitution, sworn to on the 25th of March, 1824, and revised in 1834 614 Appendix C. — Population 616 Appendix D. — Yellow Fever in Brazil. 617 Appendix E. — Tables of Brazilian Coins, Weights, and Measures 623 Appendix F. — Imports, Exports, Revenue, &c, of Brazil 624 Appendix G. — Religious Disabilities, Extracts from a Speech made by Dr. Furquim D'Almeida g2g ArpENDix H. — Recent Discoveries of Coal in Brazil 633 Appendix I. — Thermometrical Observations at Rio de Janeiro in 1864 638 Appendix J. — Steam Routes to Brazil I'.AV Oh' i LofVUkgagtwn 'Z .birhortioo for Men os M'tir 3 Anclwrtitie lor Mivrfiiiiit I t.wls ditchariiuii] t'nrpo I Ancharage tbr __l/_.IJw.fn/.r nvnrinij t~<inji< 5 VcMongo G Giunboa, _ _ 7 tiv'l/"' X-bi/fl 8 Fotsao htbllCO ;i XS-.'./,, li,;i Viii.nm 10 X.Benit.i. .. .. . THE SUGAR-LOAF, (ENTRANCE TO THE BAY OF RIO.) §i[^H and tlt^ §nt£tltmis

Chapter I. The Bat Of Rio De Janeiro Historic Reminiscences First Sight

OF THE TROPICS ENTRANCE TO THE HARBOR NIGHT-SCENES — IMPRESSIONS OF BEAUTY AND GRANDEUR— GARDNER AND STEWART — -THE CAPITAL OF BRAZIL — DISTINC- TION OF RIO DE JANEIRO. The Bay of Naples, the Golden Horn of Constantinople, and tho Bay of Bio de Janeiro, are always mentioned by the travelled tourist as pre-eminently worthy to be classed together for their extent, and for the beauty and sublimity of their scenery. The first two, however, must yield the palm to the last-named magnificent sheet of water, which, in a climate of perpetual summer, is enclosed within the ranges of singularly-picturesque mountains, and is dotted with the verdure-covered islands of the tropics. He who, \z in Switzerland, has gazed from the Quaiof Vevay, or from the windows of the old Castle of Chillon, upon the grand panorama of the upper end of the Lake of Geneva, can have an idea of the general view of the Bay of Rio de Janeiro ; and there was much truth and beauty in the remark of the Swiss, who, looking for the first time on the native splendor of the Brazilian bay and its circlet of mountains, exclaimed, " C est V Helvetie Meridionale !"

(It is the Southern Switzerland !) What a glorious spectacle must have presented itself to those early navigators — De Solis, Majellan, and Martin Affonso de Souza — who were the first Europeans that ever sailed through the narrow portal which constitutes the entrance to Nitherohy, (Hidden Water,) as these almost land-locked waters were appropriately and poetically termed by the Tamoyo Indians !. Though the moun tain-sides and borders of the bay are still richly and luxuriantly clothed, then all the primeval forests existed, and gave a wilder and more striking beauty to a scene so enchanting in a natural point of view, even after three centuries of the encroachments of man. De Souza — as the common tradition runs — supposed that he had entered the mouth of a mighty river, rivalling the Orinoco and the Amazon, and named it Rio de Janeiro, (River of January,") after the happy month — January, 1531 — in which he made his imagined discovery.

Whatever may have been the origin of this misnomer, it is not only applied to the large and commodious bay, but to the province in which it is situated, and to the populous metropolis of Brazil, which sits like a queen upon its bright shores. We all of us know, either by our own experience or by that of others, what is the sight of land to the tempest-tossed voyager. When the broad blue circle of sea and sky, which for days and weeks has encompassed his vision, is at length broken by a shore, — even though that shore be bleak and desolate as the ice-mountains of the Arctic regions, — it is invested with a surpassing interest, it is robed in undreamed-of charms. What, then, must be the emotions of one who, coming from a latitude of stormy winter, beholds around him a land of perpetual summer, with its towering and crested palms, and its giant vegetation arrayed in fadeless green !

In December, 1851, when the Hudson and the Potomac were Entrance to the Harbor. 15 bridged by the ice-king, and clouds and snow draped the sky and the land, our good vessel stood out upon a stormy sea. A few weeks of gales and rolling waves, varied by light winds and calms, brought us to Cape Frio. This isolated peak shoots up as steeply as the chalk-cliffs of England, as high as the Rock of Gibraltar, and is covered to its very summit with verdure. No clouds — as I last beheld them in conjunction with terra firma — were frown ing over this summer-land. The balmiest breezes were blowing, and the palms upon the adjacent hills were gracefully waving above the world of vegetation — so new to me — which gleamed in the warm sunlight. It was in the midst of such a scene that the day, not without evening-glories, faded away.